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Toyota Celica GT - Troubleshooting
Not sure if anyone out there can help me out with this or not, but I'm trying to understand what's happened to my 2001 Celica GT the last couple of days.
Here's the rundown,
I noticed the car needed an oil change, so yesterday, against my better judgement, I went to one of those franchise oil-change places.
So last night, about 8-10 hours after I'd had my oil changed, by oil light goes on! It's intermittent at first, but within minutes it's on permanently. Shorly after this, the engine cuts out entirely, my battery and check engine lights go on, my RPM's drop to zero and I lose my power steering. I pull over turn the ignition off, give it a sec and start it up again, it turns over as it normally would and runs pretty much as usual, but still with the oil light on, I begin to drive, and in another minute the exact same thing, no jerking, no jumping, just the engine cuts out. The only consistency I notice is that it seems to occur when I'm changing gears, at the point where my clutch is all the way down.
After a while of repeating this cycle, I finally get it home, pop the hood and check the oil, it seems to be fine. There's a slight smell of burning but nothing overwhelming, and definitely no smoke coming off the engine.
I know I'll end up taking it to the service center where they'll tell me what's wrong, but I'd like to get at least some idea as to what it could be. I prefer to be somewhat informed.
Anyone out there know enough about these cars to throw any hypotheses out?
Thanks.
Here's the rundown,
I noticed the car needed an oil change, so yesterday, against my better judgement, I went to one of those franchise oil-change places.
So last night, about 8-10 hours after I'd had my oil changed, by oil light goes on! It's intermittent at first, but within minutes it's on permanently. Shorly after this, the engine cuts out entirely, my battery and check engine lights go on, my RPM's drop to zero and I lose my power steering. I pull over turn the ignition off, give it a sec and start it up again, it turns over as it normally would and runs pretty much as usual, but still with the oil light on, I begin to drive, and in another minute the exact same thing, no jerking, no jumping, just the engine cuts out. The only consistency I notice is that it seems to occur when I'm changing gears, at the point where my clutch is all the way down.
After a while of repeating this cycle, I finally get it home, pop the hood and check the oil, it seems to be fine. There's a slight smell of burning but nothing overwhelming, and definitely no smoke coming off the engine.
I know I'll end up taking it to the service center where they'll tell me what's wrong, but I'd like to get at least some idea as to what it could be. I prefer to be somewhat informed.
Anyone out there know enough about these cars to throw any hypotheses out?
Thanks.
0
Comments
Either way, don't EVER restart your engine (or continue driving in the first place) with the oil light on! That is just begging for a major repair bill.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2. Runs on 3 cylinders
3. Spark plug wire is shorting out
4. Engine mounts are lose ...........
I've checked all the fuses, and they are good.
Are there any circuit breakers or fusible links in the vehicle, somewhere other than in the fuse centers under hood and under dash?
Now the engine light will not go off and when I first start the car up in the morning it spits out a cloud of smoke and there is some black ash type material (just a little bit) that comes out of the tail pipes also...but only when I first start it up. I can drive it all day no problem but the light doesn't go off which makes me think it's not the fuel injectors....any advise...I need help trouble shooting this issue. :sick:
You did not say what model and what year. All models that use premium gas should run on premium gas only. If not, a lot of the sensors and the catalytic converter will malfunction.
Buy an engine scanner in eBay for about $30. Switch off the check engine light.
Rescan your engine. If a sensor failure keeps coming back, replace that sensor.
If the catalytic converter fault keeps coming back, time to replace the converter.
Toyota's engines are very simple and logical. Use your head and dont be scared. You will find the problems with some thinking. The dealers' mechanics use the same scanner and may not be as smart as you.
Its has a ruff idle when in park, when it first gets going it has a rough start off. But seems to run fine once on the road.
I did have an engine light come on, but the code tells me its a normal code.
I did add some fuel cleaner and a fuel injector cleaner to see if its helps but nothing has helped.
Any advice.
That was a year ago. Yesterday I mentioned it to a good friend of mine who immediately said to trade the car in as quickly as possible, before the engine goes. He had the same 1.8L in his MR2, and by 50k miles the car was burning through oil like nothing and eventually had a bad engine mount. Luckily, his car was under warranty. Mine is not. He said Toyota knows about the problem and corrected it in 2002, but ignores prior issues.
I've tried to do :confuse: research online and this oil consumption issue is apparently well known on the 2000-01 GTs? One website even said there was a recall for this problem in the UK?
So I just need some advice on how serious this is, how likely my car is develop it (or is already developing it), and what to do with the car. I don't want to sell the car - I bought a Toyota planning to have it for 200k+ miles. But if I'm facing an inevitable major engine problem that'll drop it's value from $5000 to $200, I'd rather trade it in now.
What do you all think?
Oh, side question - I'm thinking of replacing it with a 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe. Any opinions on that car?
Thanks!!
I own a 1990 Toyota Celica, which i love to bits!! No real big work done on it as of yet but was planning on starting to spend some money on it very soon. Only problem being I recently had a collision and people have been telling me once it is fixed I should try to get rid of it.
The crash not being my fault (someone ran a red light and hit me) has resulted in the car having damage to the front left passenger side of the car and thats all i know as of yet. I was hit at about 80kms/hr.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should do with it once it is fixed and or if once it is fixed it will be the same as before the collision?
Any thoughts would be much appreacited
Thank you,
Deb :confuse:
I greatly appreciate your helpful inforrmation which helped me sleep well last night.
Thank you,
D.A.
Any Ideas?
Well after my 1994 starting issue problem it happened to be the ECU (computer)so I had it replaced and it starts and runs good. I was told it may have been the distrubutor. I do not know much but I had to get it diagnosed at the toyota and they replaced the ECU (computer).
I would suggest maybe get a diagnose at Advance discount store since it starts or the dealer.
Take Care,
Deb
i just purchased a 2001 toyota celica gt and a couple months ago i noticed my trunk light wasn't working so of course i changed the bulb and still nothing and just today i changed it again figuring it was a bad bulb but still nothing and i checked the fuse panels and cant find a fuse designated for the trunk all my other systems are working that i can tell. i know sometimes they tie the fuse with more than one system can you please help
thanks
ben
I checked the GAS cap & its closed well as hinted within the manual.
I went to FIRESTONE to see what could be the issue. They were charging $100 to run the diagnosis alone.
The car has been in perfect shape with no issues so far. I would like to know what could be the possible issues & where can I go to get them solved ?
CHARMON1972
Thanks,
Rogue22
My friends want me to get rid of it or take to to a mechainic to get the "problem" fixed... Yeah, like I went to the dentist to get my teeth cleaned, and he loosened them up so bad, I have to keep going every four to six months or al the teeth are going to come off. Man, I regret the day I set foot in a dentist's office... just so I could use the insurance money. But that is another story...
Thanks.
Any ideas out there?
TIA
Worthy1
Any thoughts or ideas on how to reduce the cost? Is it something that can be replaced by me?
You might have a defective oxygen sensor or thermostat or some small problem, which you can replace yourself, from NAPA or Western Auto or Pep Boys or buy over the internet for less than $50. If it is major, like the catalytic convertor, at least you will have the satisfaction of knowing you weren't "taken for a ride"- (ha-ha... pun intended). Good Luck
The ignition has locked up and won't turn when I insert the key. I have tried pulling hard on the steering wheel (turning both left and right) as I try turning the key. The ignition won't budge.
If anybody knows how I can solve this problem while avoiding costly repair bills, I am all ears.
I had another key made at the local Toyota dealership, but that did not solve the problem.
The Toyoata dealership said a new ignition cylinder costs $90.
Will installing this cylinder solve the problem, and is it difficult to do? I am somewhat mechanically inclined.
Thank you.
The catalytic converter may be bad, but most likely the cause is fuel /air mixture is not optimum, therefore fuel burn is incomplete, causing high level of pollution that cannot be completely cleaned by the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter itself is probably OK and does not need replacement.
Try cheap fixes of the air/fuel mixture problem first before other expensive fixes. The air filter is probabaly old and dirty, and should be replaced. It should be replaced every 15K miles or when it looks dirty. New Toyota OEM air filters are sold in eBay for about $12. Toyota dealers sell for $30, yuk!
The white filter fiber should look white and clean. The engine sucks in a lot of air through this filter. Dirty filter would reduce airflow into engine, causing rich mixture that causes low gas mileage, high pollution and rough idle.
If new air filter still cause low-efficiency catalytic converter then look to make sure all rubber vaccumm hoses around the air box and the fuel injection unit are properly connected and not leaking.
Perhaps spraying carburetor cleaner into the fuel injection unit's throat to unstuck the valve would also help...
Look at the symtoms, figure out all possible causes, then try the cheap fixes at the root cause first. Dont just fix the symtoms. Would be expensive and sometimes useless.
Replace the air filter should increase air intake, balance out air/fuel mixture and solve the problem. You can buy Toyota OEM air filter in eBay for about $12. Dealers sell for about $30.
Check all rubber vaccuum hoses around the airbox and the fuel injector. Make sure they are connected and not leaking.
Check the cold air valve in the airbox in front of the air filter. It may be stuck in close position, causing rich fuel mixture. Spray some WD40 into the valve to lubricate it.
Thank you for the response. I appreciate it. :confuse:
It idles rough while I am in park, and when I accelerate it starts off very slow and finially catches up... I have like 165,000 miles on it too. Did you EVER find out what the problem was or is????
Michelle in Las Vegas