Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Lexus RX 300



  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    36.5K sounds like a good price to me assuming it is AWD. The best I could do in NJ was 36.4K about a month ago and that was an internet dealer and was really too far away for me. TT&L would be additional. Prices vary in different parts of the country and should get cheaper as the model year draws to a close but you also run the risk of not finding the car you want.

    rraby - Was your car FWD or AWD? I am guessing FWD. In NJ tax alone is over 2k.
  • jfetterjfetter Posts: 29
    This is just a follow-up to some previous posts regarding adding a hitch to an RX. It all started with #2274 from Mikey00 (thanks again Mikey00! The hitch is awesome) regarding the Highlander hitch made by Hidden Hitch. I must say the hitch looks great and the install was a breeze, even the directions for the highlander wiring harness was dead-on for the RX (shows you how much in common the 2 actually are).

    I plan on posting photos of the whole process once I have time to dump the images from my DV camcorder but here are the basics;

    1.) Highlander Hitch is Class III rated so it comes with a 2" receiver, other than that it is identical to the Lexus design except it is made of tubular steel. IMO, this look is much nicer than the somewhat small gauge box design of the factory hitch. I crawled under one at the dealer the other day just out of curiosity and I can assure you the Hidden Hitch unit is nicer and more substantial.

    2.) Mounting is a breeze, simply unbolt the 2 brackets used to hold the RX's down during shipping (R and L - held on with 2 bolts each) and remove the two rubber plugs that are keeping water and debris from getting in the additional mounting holes on each side (total - 3 holes per side) and bolt the unit in place. The holes are an exact match and the unit ships with the necessary 6 bolts.

    3.) That's it! Unless you decide to add the wiring harness, the entire job takes 10 minutes. The wiring harness plugs into the pre-wired connector that is found in the wiring box directly under the rear of the RX. Simply loosen 4 nuts and the plastic cover comes off exposing the wiring harness (you need to remove the protective plastic cap to plug in the harness). Route the harness along the hitch and secure using the included wire ties.

    *The only problem I can see is securing the bracket for the 4-pin plug. It comes with a bent piece of metal that is designed to bolt to the bumper or whatever you feel like drilling through but that requires a little work. The 4-pin flat plug comes with a rubber "cap" and will mount in this plate if desired. I decided to simply leave the 4-pin plug dangling near the hitch receiver until I decide if I want to drill into the tubular steel hitch or mount the plug to the bumper or other location. The only thing that could make this foolproof is if the hitch assembly had a location for the plug by design.

    The hitch unit also comes with a pretty nifty 4-pin into 6-pin plug that can be mounted to the hitch/RX. With it, you simply plug the 4-pin wiring harness into the back and then flip open the plastic cover to reveal both a 4-pin and 6-pin plugs. This nifty plug comes with the hitch, it is shipped separately but is included with the price of the unit. It has holes to mount to whatever you want (again, you have to drill 2 holes somewhere) but makes for a very professional installation that provides both 4-pin flat and 6-pin round connections.

    I'll post pictures by the weekend, they show how easy it actually is...

    Jack Fetter
  • ranjithwranjithw Posts: 9
    Thanks Mikey00 and rraby
    They quoted this price for a WAD with Perm Plus Package. It also has wood and leather steering wheel, cargo net and mats. They said that they would add another $97 for processing fee. I am not sure about that fee yet. I do not know whether that fee is for TT and L. I will ask them about it. However, I HAVE TO PAY on the car... What do you guys think about it?
  • ranjithwranjithw Posts: 9
    Sorry Guys
    in the previous message I meant to say was AWD not WAD... I am sorry!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    There's a lot of that going around :-)

    You have 30 minutes to make any changes or fixes after you post a message. Just click on the Edit button that follows your message after you post it.

    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • ranjithwranjithw Posts: 9
    Thanks Steve!

    Guys I just called the dealership again and found out that the RX300 would cost me 39.4K with tax,TT and L. Without TAX and Processing fee, it is 36.5K. This is for a 2001 RX300 with prem plus package. Do you think this is a good deal???

  • bird38bird38 Posts: 4
    Not sure where you live or what the dealerships are doing in your area, but I just purchased an AWD with NAV, heated seats, accessory rails, cargo mat, hitch... the works for $38.2 +TTL. I also considered the FWD NAV with the same additional features for $36.5.

    In most cases, most dealers will sell the Rex's at about $500-$800 over invoice today.

    Hope that helps.
  • kimwipeskimwipes Posts: 21
    I was reading the manual and it quotes 2 services
    schedules. For oil changes, the 4K/4 months schedule is for short trips/cold wheater, dusty
    roads, etc. The 7.5K/6 months seems more appropriate for city driving. I'm coming up to my 4 months and the dealer schedule the first oil change soon. What do you guys think, should I just keep the car in the 4 month or 6 month schedule? I do mostly city driving, no towing.
  • ranjithwranjithw Posts: 9
    Thanks Brid38

    I live in St. Louis, MO.....I wonder whether this price is too high for midwest region...

  • jse75jse75 Posts: 5
    Does anyone know what changes will be in the 2002 RX300's? I am considering a purchase and since it's the end of the model year there seem to be some reasonable deals.

    On the other hand, if next year's RX300 has a side head airbag (curtain or whatever they call it), that would be personally worth waiting for. Does anybody know?

  • bentwrenchbentwrench Posts: 27
    My maintenance manual says to change the brake fluid at 30k miles. Does anyone know if this is due to concerns with moisture, particulates or acid (neutralization number)? Does the whole system need to be flushed or would just changing what is in the reservoir be a high enough percentage of the total fluid to keep whatever is the concern under control?
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    I have checked out the Town Hall topic "Engine Sludge", and there is some concern that Toyota/Lexus engines may have a problem with the 7500 mile service interval if the car sees severe service. The 4K/4 month oil change may be prudent until this gets sorted out.
  • jasonwwjasonww Posts: 7
    When I bought my 2001 FWD RX300 a month ago, the salesperson said I should use regular unleaded. Before that I had expected I would need midgrade. So I've been using regular, but before I drive it much more I want to decide on the right fuel type and stick with it.

    I've always heard that if you use a higher octane fuel than your engine needs, than you're wasting money and could even damage your engine. But, I don't want to go to the other extreme and use a fuel mixture that's too weak.

    So I thought I'd put the question to some of the RX300 fanatics here and ask- what grade of fuel do you put in yours? Did you notice improved performance or mileage over reg. unleaded?

  • ranjithwranjithw Posts: 9
    rraby and mikey00

    In your postings you say that you paid "$36.5K driveout, including TT&L". Does this include tax as well?


  • drummerboydrummerboy Posts: 30
    Jasonww, my salesman also told me to use 87 fuel for my 2001 RX. I've been driving with 87 for the past 5 months. I'm also kind of concerned since I was also expecting this "luxury" truck to use at least 89 fuel. However, so far I haven't had any problems with it.

    Kimwipes, I'm just about to hit my 7500 schedule. I live in Los Angeles, and I personally think the 6 month schedule is good enough for city driving.
  • tonychrystonychrys Posts: 1,310
    What does the owner's manual say?
  • malhokcmalhokc Posts: 83
    87 Octane is all you need per Service Manual. 89 or higher are Ok too, but $$; really no need.

    The manual also suggests oil changes every 5000 and 7500, depending on your condidtion of driving. Some lexus dealers suggest oil changes at 3K, just a money making scheme. There's no need. I get mine done at 5K due to a lot of city driving.

    Does anyone know if the out side temperature reads beyond 99 deg in the screen. Mine has gone upto 99 deg only. It sure feels hotter than that.
  • rrabyrraby Posts: 10
    mikey00: Yes, I bought a FWD. Not much need for AWD here in beautiful, flat Texas!

    ranjithw: $36.5K "driveout" means that was the total price I paid, including all taxes and fees. "TT&L" means "Tax, Title, and License", by the way. Sounds like you're looking at a pretty much identically equipped vehicle to mine (FWD, Premium Package Plus [which includes the wood/leather steering wheel, moonroof, etc.]), so $39.4K does not not sound like a good deal to me. That's $3K more than I paid 6 months ago, and I'm sure prices haven't spiked that badly since. Keep after 'em!
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462

    My previous post said TT&L would be added on to this price. Tax is part of TT&L (tax,tags,&license(I think??)).
    rraby's post said the price included TT&L. I think his quote is for a FWD and your's an AWD would make both your quotes about right.
    It's best to quote prices without tax because it varies by state.
  • avery1avery1 Posts: 373
    I see temperatures over 100 on my screen.
  • rrabyrraby Posts: 10
    My temperature reading regularly exceeds 100 now that summer is here. In fact, it seems to pretty consistently read higher than the actual temp. Can someone clue me in to where the thermometer is?
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Posts: 249
    I too bought the tubular aftermarket hitch (Hidden Hitch) and installed the OEM wiring harness. As promised, this baby bolted right up to the frame and looks awesome! Here's my problem. After installing the wiring harness and plugging in the 20amp fuse, I still don't have power to the harness! The only thing I didn't do was disconnect the neg. battery terminal before starting as I thought that this was simply precautionary. I've got power at the fuse panel and the fuse meters out okay, but still no 12V at the harness with the engine running and the lights turned on. The negative pin on the harness shows a dead short to the frame (a good thing), but I can't get 12V on either of the 3 remaining pins with the park lights on. I've even removed the harness and metered the pins at the OEM connector! Any ideas? To be honest, I've not hooked up the trailer to it yet and was thinking that maybe it was looking for a load, but I'm not sure. I guess I'll have to pull the trailer out tonight and check it out.
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    I am glad to hear the hitch installation worked out for both you and jfetter and we all agree on the look. I have not installed the harness yet and may never install it. My only application right now is for a bike rack. I know you said you disconnected the harness and metered the pins at the OEM connector. I am assuming that meant no +12v there either. I hope you get lucky and it's just looking for a load as you suggested. If not maybe jfettter can do some comparisions for you. Keep me in the loop. If you don't get it working I will order one from and try to figure out. I will probably need it in the future anyway.
  • malhokcmalhokc Posts: 83
    Thanks for the info re: temp reading. Guess, it really hasn't hit 100 deg in Chicago yet.


    I plan on ordering the hitch too. Can you tell me what bike rack you went with, cost, etc #.

    Thanks much
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    See post 2278
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    If you can scan or somehow get the harness directions to me I will be glad to check some voltages at my oem harness. Or even explain what connector and pins under that black plastic cover.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The climate contro OAT sensor is the source for the outside temperature indication and that sensor is mounted behind the front bumper/grill, just forward of the radiator. Radiant heat from the radiator and A/C condensor is likely causing the excess temperature readings, especially when stopped and there is no airflow over the sensor.

    I relocated my 92 LS sensor into the front of the right fender well becuase in the wintertime this radiant heating was causing the A/C to run even with the outside temperatures below freezing.
  • ranjithwranjithw Posts: 9
    Thanks Mikey00 and rraby

    So mikey00's RX300 is a FWD. The car I am looking at is an AWD with the same goodies!. Therefore, dealer is charging me extra $ 3K for the AWD.

  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    This price thing is dragging on far to long. This will be my last post on the subject. This is the second RX I have purchased and I have done a lot of price checking. The price you were quoted is a good price considering the options your car is equipped with in your part of the country. You cannot compare it to a FWD in Texas and try to use the price including sales tax. Do cars in Texas have heated front seats? I don't know but I bet not. It sounds to me like you are trying to talk yourself out of this car. I shopped for the same car, with the same options in NJ and was only able to beat that price by $100.
  • bird38bird38 Posts: 4
    The price I negotiated to move form the FWD to the AWD was about $1,600... I believe invoice on this feature is about$1,560.

    One thing that I would definitely do if I were you... call around, and let the dealers know that you are shopping. This brings them to 'reality'. Also, you may want to check to see what their price for a similarly priced unit would be. I beat their price for my market by about $1,600, but did so by offering to buy out of state and drive to pick it up.

    Hope that helps.
Sign In or Register to comment.