My 265/70 duelers get some vibration on specific roads in my area...one road in particular the front vibrates at 47-53 mph? This only happens at very specific spots. I think the extra traction of a larger tire can increase the effect of roads with "grooving" that isn't quite right.
Do the bars bolt on or are they only horizontal welds?
Cool so they should fit w/o a problem on mine since I have the OME + 1" spacers in the rear and Sway Away T-bars in the front and soon to have ball joint flip + spacer.
It is possible that larger tires will effect the transmission and engine. I reported a problem from this summer where I almost overheated on 95+ days on the highway. While driving through the mountains at 65-70 MPH with a large payload, I had to slow to 55 to keep the temperature needle from hitting "H". One theory (I haven't brought it in yet nor had another problem with that) is that the larger tires made the engine/trans work harder given the excessive load and therefore operating hotter than the stock cooling system is designed for.
Would the 285/75 tires be load range E or above? If so will that make your Trooper handle like an empty cement truck? And tire noise like a cement truck too? Is 285/75 too far to go for daily Trooper drivers, and best left for mostly trail only Troopers?
The 285s I put on are D rated. They're stiffer, but fine. Noise is about the same. Around town driving is unaffedted. Interstate driving is a little rougher, but not unacceptable.
The lowest dealer price I found locally is $469 and that doesn't include repacking of the wheel bearings. They said the wheel bearings would cost $200 on top of that. I am reasonably handy so I can do myself oil/filter, air and fuel filter, flush radiator, and replace the differential and transfer case oil. The only remaining service would be to flush the auto tranny fluid. My concern is not to void the extended Isuzu warranty by doing these myself. I can buy maintenance parts online but would the receipts be enough for Isuzu?
Agree - that $60 seemed low - lowest price from another independent in the area was $150. Guess we will find out just how good he is - but that is his job (brakes, front ends, etc - he was not a fluid changer ). The radiator I will do myself - fuel filter I may have someone else do - I think I read something here about killing the line pressure before removing the filter. I think you can do any of the recommended/required service yourself - but have the receipts - but I think if a warranty issue comes up in the future they will look for an error on your part. In addition, make sure you document the mileage when you did the work. For me Skill Lube seemed like a good path - the data of performing the work is in their computer (mileage, dates), the computer also spells out the specifics (fluid types, quantities, additives, etc.) and I have receipts - something breaks due to poor maintenance practice I have someone to point my finger at - 10 yrs/120K is a long time and it is one of the things that helped me decide to buy the Trooper in the first place. Also, most of my driving has been highway mileage - the brake pads might easily outlast the bearing grease.
A big thank you for the great advise for moving the temp gauge. The factory guys must have been sleeping when they put the sensor next to the radiator. The removal of the grill was a snap and the sensor was easy enough to relocate on the lower grill bracket. I needed to wiggle some slack out of the wire loom so that I had space but that was the toughest part of the job. The advice on the clips was great because they just snap into the grill, when you are ready to assemble the parts, the grill clips snap into place.
Pulled a trailer from Colorado to Nebraska with a weight of 3500lbs with no problem at all. Sometimes I had to look to see if the trailer was still back there. The Trooper is a ok in my book.
Hey pugger1 - does the temp readout stay constant now when you are stopped - did you need more wire (doesn't sound like it) and just where on the lower grill(removeable nose grill?) bracket did you stick it - thanks
I am amazed at how heavy duty the Trooper is. After crawling underneath and inspecting all components I have gained a new appreciation for it. :-) The fuel filter is on a bracket in front of the rear differential and easy to access. I believe to relieve the fuel pressure you need to unplug the fuel pump fuse and then crank the engine until it stalls. The differentials drain and fill holes are easy to reach too, as it the transfer case. This is an ignorant question but does anyone know where to put the LSD additive package? My guess is in the rear differential along with the regular oil, correct? I checked with Isuzu and they said that as long as I have receipts for the parts and record the date and mileage of any service I perform, I should be ok. One last thing, the previous owner had the ultimate protection plus coverage so I'm not sure if that coverage will be extended if I do my own service.
The gauge stay fairly constant. I creeps up but only a little bit at stops. ( A couple of degrees). The grill is screwed on to the bracket at the lower part, just above the bumper. My brackets had a square hole in them just above where the grill screwed on. There was one small problem and that was some sort of sensor on the radiator. I removed the bracket from the radiator mounting and then removed the extra wire from the temp bracket and attached it to the hole that the bracket had been in. Then I moved the sensor down to the new location.
I think that all will be clear when you remove the grill. The entire job, including cleaning and waxing the grill took less than thirty minutes.
After looking around the site I found the place where I could use the Italian flag. So now I can fly the flag of Itay, at least on Columbus Day. I am a proud Italian but an even prouder American. Philip
Thanks pugger1 - think I got the picture - can't wait to get my hands on the grill - considering what a fine vehicle the Trooper is that temp thing has always bothered me - in fact the monitor bugs me because during the day its hard to read because of the reflection off of the lens - even though it is lighted behind the screen even during the day - at night its easy to read because of the illumination - looks cool - I paid the $600 to have that unit but in my LS - after having vehicles that had a compass/temp readout I knew I would always miss it - plus the altimeter was just too much for me to pass up. I have installed aftermarket temp units in other vehicles but they were battery powered and a pain to use and you had to push a button to see them at night. Thanks or update
Yep, just get a 4 oz. tube of the anti-chatter additive from the auto parts store. After you drain the rear diff, squirt the contents of the tube in there and then fill as normal with gear oil. You don't need it for the front diff, as it is not a LSD.
What weight and brand gear oil do you recommend for the differentials, transfer case and auto tranny? FYI, I'm in Texas and do not plan on towing anything. Is there a benefit to going with Mobil1 75W-90 GL5? The description of it includes "can be used in LSD differentials", but does that mean it already has LSD additives? For the auto tranny, I was planning on just changing the fluid with some brand Dextron III, no flushing or dropping the pan. Any suggestions would be appreciated greatly!
Going from memory there is one weight specified in the manual for the rear diff, and two different weights for the front diff depending on ambient temp. Of course in TX you would use the heavier weight of the two, which is the same as the rear spec I believe.
I don't think GL-5 means it has the anti-chatter additive, but I am not sure. I think it is just an SAE spec or something, like they have for motor oil.
Regarding the transfer case, be careful. If you have a TOD transfer case you use AT fluid, not gear oil or motor oil.
For the tranny, I just took it to Jiffy Lube and they did the fluid swap machine. That way you get all the fluid exchanged, and save a lot of hassle IMO.
I used Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in both front and rear differentials when changing out the original fluid at appx 50k miles on our 98 Trooper. Don't remember the exact weight, but I used the same for both front and rear even though the Isuzu-recommended specs are slightly different. I'm thinking it was 80W90. I'll doublecheck my maintenance records. I don't think Mobil 1 offers its synth gear lube in very many different weights.
Agree that the "works in limited slip diffys" statement from Mobil 1 does NOT mean there's already an LSD additive in there.
A 4 fl. oz. bottle of LSD additive isn't real expensive, but you might try the rear diffy without it as it may not be necessary. I'm pretty sure the GM LSD additive is the same formula as the Isuzu-branded version. So you might find it cheaper or more easily at a GM dealer.
96_i30_5sp, are you an Infiniti fan? It doesn't surprise me that the Trooper's quality would be appreciated by someone with a fondness for Infinitis.
You are right, no dipstick - that would be too easy!
You check it kinda like a differential. When the fluid runs out the fill hole, it's full. The tranny should be checked while the engine is running, in neutral I believe.
Thanks for the info.. AFAIK, Mobil1 comes in 75W90 GL5, which should be ok. I am an Infiniti and Nissan fan, although I don't own the I30 anymore. Both my wife and myself have always bought manual transmission cars and I would have loved to continue that but Infiniti stopped offering manual trannies for the I30 so I went with a 5spd Maxima SE and haven't felt a big "downgrade". :-) Perhaps my next car would be 6spd G35. We also started looking for manual Troopers, but suprisingly I encouraged her to get the auto for several reasons. The auto felt very smooth and well matched to the engine. TOD is only available with the auto. The stick shift would require pretty long arms and may get tiring for my wife. Finally, we couldn't pass the deal on the Trooper we found: burgundy 01 with 30k, auto with TOD, very clean for $14.5k. We are very impressed with the Trooper build quality, both my wife and myself were quickly converted to it after comparing it to the current Pathfinders and 4Runners. The only bad part is the mileage: my Maxima is now the "economy" car and gets used alot more. :-)
During the long delay of the insurance evaluation, settlement, etc. I was out on tour several times and came to realize how useful it would be to have a pickup truck so that three bikes could be moved around with just a double trailer. We ended up using a Tundra owned by one of my staff members for a corporate trip and by the end of the week I was sold on getting a pickup. Given that I still need true four-door passenger space, a quad/crew cab was the order of the day. After driving all prospects I decided on the funky but versatile Chevy Avalanche and then found a used 2002 (11K) 4WD for $24,750. As many of you know, it's really a modified Suburban and I had good luck with my '99 Suburban. So far, so good, averaging 16.5 mpg and have hauled several bikes in it already. I love the convertible midgate and the removeable rear window.
Anyway, this is a great list and I very much enjoyed the advice and people found here. If you have another off-road gathering in the East, please let me know directly at sreid@sover.net I'd enjoy meeting up.
I went with the Nashville Isuzu dealer body shop for the repair. The scratches in the surface were deep enough that they can't be buffed out. To replace the cover itself would have been $190 before having it painted, with labor.
To fix the cover, including sanding, repainting, and replacing the lettering is going to run $177+tax. Replacing the letters alone was $45 of it! I think being the Isuzu dealer shop, they'll nail the paint color and the composite mix they need to make the paint flexible.
Oh well, small crap like this is why I carry a $500 deductible on my insurance and keep a cash emergency fund!
The lesson here is to watch where you park, and when in a lot, pull as far in as you can to keep your rear out of the line of fire, or pull through when possible, if you won't need to open the rear door.
I got hit again, and this POS left the scene. My truck was parked in a hospital parking structure. Damage is all cosmetic luckily, it's on the plastic fender flare behind the passenger rear door just behind that black plastic rockchip guard. About 4 sq. (2x2) inches of scraped off paint and it did misshape/gouge the plastic, so it was a fairly good hit. I am glad for those fenders. Anyway, no biggie, it just won't be perfect any more. I have touch up paint that will probably make it acceptable to me. We shall see. Be safe out there!
Definitely would love to have you along. Heck I'm taking my SVX to NC this weekend cause my door seal is messed up from the fender bender and 1200 miles of wind noise would kill me.
At the gas station I parked behind an older model Trooper. The guy asked me what year was mine and then said: "keep it, mine is a 94 and has 250k trouble-free miles"! Made me feel a bit better when I saw the gas bill. :-)
That's what I saw at PepBoys today but the Isuzu dealer said to just use 80W90 in both front and rear differentials. Pepboys have regular GL5 as well as synthetic Castrol, Valvoline and Mobil1. Is there a comparison between different brands oil somewhere? I would be inclined to get the synthetic since it'll need changing only at 30k intervals. FYI, the synthetic weights were all 75W90 or 80W90, none were 80W140. As for the tranny and TOD transfer case fluid, I bought a case of Texaco Havoline Dexron III from Sam's, I hope it'll be ok. Would anyone give me any tips on the tranny fluid change? It seems that I may need some kind of pump to get the fluid in. Also, what size wrench would I need for the fill plugs of the tranny and differentials? Last, I was planning on using Havoline 10W30 oil and Purolator/Proline oil filters unless there are better recommendations. P.S. Sorry for all the questions, I want to do it right. :-)
I am planning on towing a 2000# trailer from Chicago to southern Florida. Should I put my auto transmission in 3rd or could I use overdrive? The manual does not indicate that OD should not be selected when towing.
For freeway driving especially where there aren't a lot of hills and only a 2000lb trailer i'd use D until I got to a real hilly area or where there was traffic and it started downshifting a lot. Heck with a 2000lb trailer you shouldn't even notice its there!
Don't do the transmission fluid change!!! Take it to your local quick lube place and have them do a fluid exchange. It's CHEAP and not worth the hassle to do it yourself. Congrats on the bargin find on that Trooper! Best deal I've heard of so far.
Don't remember specifics, but I seem to recall there are some drawbacks to the fluid exchange method. Instead of doing that, we had a trans shop drain fluid, drop the pan, replace gasket, and add new fluid.
Just checked with the local station and they would do a fluid exchange for $80 and will put Mobil1 ATF for $30 more. They must not be very busy because they offered to change all the differentials, transfer case, and auto tranny flush with synthetic fluids for $180. What drawbacks are there to fluid exchange? I've heard of messed up trannies when they flush dirty oil but would there be a problem with only 30k?
Most of those items are so easy to do that even a moron like me has tackled them myself. Of course, there was that minor problem with putting ATF in the rear diffy and then breaking off the drain plug due to overuse and overtightening, but I digress.
The diffys and transfer case don't take much fluid, and they aren't hard to drain and fill. So the parts costs there should be pretty minimal.
If you don't mind doing some of the stuff yourself, I'd say have Jiffy Lube do the A/T exchange and swap out the t-case and diffy fluids yourself. You'd save probably $50 or a bit more and gain some confidence in your ability to maintain your Trooper yourself.
The last part of the article says GM would trade most of its ownership in Isuzu for a majority share in the profitable diesel engine part of Isuzu. Does that mean a majority share in just the one new Duramax factory in the USA? Or all of Isuzu diesels? If it means all of Isuzu diesels then this could be the end of Isuzu, not just the end of Isuzu SUVs in the USA. GM will wipe out the Isuzu name or make it a GM truck brand and start the deep cost cutting which will take away from the long term reliability that Isuzu is known for.
Have you been to the Envoy/Trailblazer forum lately? Now a number have TRADED in their year old vehicles due to so many warranty issues being unresolved or the things are just plain unreliable. I hope the Ascender (spelling!) turns out to be temporary and Isuzu can come up with a new Trooper. Doubt it, but one can hope.
Comments
Do the bars bolt on or are they only horizontal welds?
-mike
-mike
-mike
Pulled a trailer from Colorado to Nebraska with a weight of 3500lbs with no problem at all. Sometimes I had to look to see if the trailer was still back there. The Trooper is a ok in my book.
Philip
I checked with Isuzu and they said that as long as I have receipts for the parts and record the date and mileage of any service I perform, I should be ok. One last thing, the previous owner had the ultimate protection plus coverage so I'm not sure if that coverage will be extended if I do my own service.
I think that all will be clear when you remove the grill. The entire job, including cleaning and waxing the grill took less than thirty minutes.
Philip
Philip
I don't think GL-5 means it has the anti-chatter additive, but I am not sure. I think it is just an SAE spec or something, like they have for motor oil.
Regarding the transfer case, be careful. If you have a TOD transfer case you use AT fluid, not gear oil or motor oil.
For the tranny, I just took it to Jiffy Lube and they did the fluid swap machine. That way you get all the fluid exchanged, and save a lot of hassle IMO.
Agree that the "works in limited slip diffys" statement from Mobil 1 does NOT mean there's already an LSD additive in there.
A 4 fl. oz. bottle of LSD additive isn't real expensive, but you might try the rear diffy without it as it may not be necessary. I'm pretty sure the GM LSD additive is the same formula as the Isuzu-branded version. So you might find it cheaper or more easily at a GM dealer.
96_i30_5sp, are you an Infiniti fan? It doesn't surprise me that the Trooper's quality would be appreciated by someone with a fondness for Infinitis.
You check it kinda like a differential. When the fluid runs out the fill hole, it's full. The tranny should be checked while the engine is running, in neutral I believe.
-mike
Anyway, this is a great list and I very much enjoyed the advice and people found here. If you have another off-road gathering in the East, please let me know directly at sreid@sover.net I'd enjoy meeting up.
Cheers,
Sean
To fix the cover, including sanding, repainting, and replacing the lettering is going to run $177+tax. Replacing the letters alone was $45 of it! I think being the Isuzu dealer shop, they'll nail the paint color and the composite mix they need to make the paint flexible.
Oh well, small crap like this is why I carry a $500 deductible on my insurance and keep a cash emergency fund!
The lesson here is to watch where you park, and when in a lot, pull as far in as you can to keep your rear out of the line of fire, or pull through when possible, if you won't need to open the rear door.
Drew
Good luck with the avalanche!
-mike
Jim
S
-mike
P.S. Sorry for all the questions, I want to do it right. :-)
-mike
The diffys and transfer case don't take much fluid, and they aren't hard to drain and fill. So the parts costs there should be pretty minimal.
If you don't mind doing some of the stuff yourself, I'd say have Jiffy Lube do the A/T exchange and swap out the t-case and diffy fluids yourself. You'd save probably $50 or a bit more and gain some confidence in your ability to maintain your Trooper yourself.
The last part of the article says GM would trade most of its ownership in Isuzu for a majority share in the profitable diesel engine part of Isuzu. Does that mean a majority share in just the one new Duramax factory in the USA? Or all of Isuzu diesels? If it means all of Isuzu diesels then this could be the end of Isuzu, not just the end of Isuzu SUVs in the USA. GM will wipe out the Isuzu name or make it a GM truck brand and start the deep cost cutting which will take away from the long term reliability that Isuzu is known for.
-mike