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Please tell me why.
Thank You
BoxTrooper
Appreciate your input!
Tom
I just drove home last night in a new 2002 LS and having the typical second thoughts. Hoping its just the jitters and not a got a "got screwed" feeling. It was a green 2002LS with tube sides, hood thing, heated seats, roof, changer etc... Was a dealer demo with about 3k. Paid 23,500+taxes.. It looks like that was way under invoice for brand new and tried haggling to account for Demo "used" status. Payments ended up around 400/mo from my credit union. Someone please let me know I didn't get completely hosed!!!! (although not like I could really do anything if I did)
You could always get some inflatables and stow them inside :-)
Steve, Host
Back from 3 weeks vacation. Did a bit of trail driving and sand driving. Should get the photos soon.
We also "initiated" a friend's 3 week old Jackaroo Equipe during these trips. Only 800km's on the clock and getting its first scratches on a forest trails. A beautiful thing!
My experiments:
1.) RedLine Oil - expensive but on the internet it looks like the best oil made. This seemed to help the lifter tick go away, but cannot go extended intervals unless the oil filter is changed 2/3 of the interval which is a pain to do, I prefer to change the oil and filter at the same time. Too expensive for regular use.
2.) Purolator Pure One 24458 filter fits exactly, had the same relief valve pressure spec. and has probably 50% more filter volume plus the added amount of filter pleats that the Pure One line offers. This seems to make easy work of keeping the oil clean and lifters quiet for 3000 to 4000 miles between changes. I highly recommend this larger filter. Look the specs up in the back of the Purolator reference book at the auto parts store. There is one even larger filter that would work even better, but that is for diesel engines not sold in the USA, so the filter is hard to get.
3.) Trasko oil filter, like a toilet paper roll the oil goes parallel to the paper not through it and the dirt is wiped off. The model that fits the Trooper does not have the capacity to last 3000 miles, it would be good for half that.
4.) Valvoline 5W30 Synpower works well, but $4 /qt.
5.) Valvoline 5W30 oil for older motors. Read the label carefully, it claims to have a lot more detergent cleaning power. Since my Trooper seems very sensitive to dirty oil, I thought I'd try it. $1.77 / qt. I actually put in 1qt of 10W30 Synpower full synthetic and five qt. of the Valvoline for older engines and this has worked very well, no more lifter noise. Until my wife filled up with low octane fuel. I have been getting the 93 octane stuff at the local BJ's discount store because they don't have a midgrade and the premium is nearly a dime less than elsewhere per gallon. The 93 Octane has been the norm for at least six months, and no lifter ticking. Then one tank of low octane and ticking returns. And back to 93 octane drive 50 miles, and the lifter ticking is again solidly gone. I don't fully understand why, unless the computer has learned timing for high octane and slightly pre-ignits the lower octane causing blow by dirt in the oil.
For me what works now is 93 octane gas and Valvoline oil for older engines 5W30 weight. As long as that cambination works I can avoid the $3000+ head rebuilding project that supposedly would make this issue go away because they have improved parts for the replacements.
Good Luck and Infinate patience to you and your 1995.
The unanswered question is what is the setting in the factory Filtech filters? See - http://www.outdoorwire.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=86;t=000293#000000
One other point, there is always a sweet spot in filter design. That is the point where the larger particles trapped on the filter work to filter out the smaller particles. One potential downside of a larger filter is that it could be so big that it might take too long to get in this state. Thus, bigger is not always better. Then again if you start with a larger, finer filtering filter such as Mobil 1 (assuming they make a larger one) this would not be an issue.
I think the PurOne version has the ability to pick out the finer particles just like the Mobil1, just not as expensive a name on it.
Cheers to all.
I've always thought the Isuzu-brand filter was a good choice and have alternated between them and the Pure One (usually the larger 24458) depending on my mood.
I think the Isuzu filter is probably just fine and so is the regular size filter. I use the PL24458 for the extra capacity and the PurOne is the premium Purolator filter for max performance.
I think it is safe to run a lower bypass presure. It has worked great for a long time now so it is proven to me. My 1995 is very sensitive to dirty oil and I have had the best luck with the larger filter to not get the lifter ticking noise.
Have you investigated what the improved parts are to eliminate the ticking? I'm not that familiar with the 3.2V6. But if it's something like adjustable rocker arms or some other parts that can be replaced without removing the camshaft, you should be able to get them done without removing the heads. There will be some expense in it but the need for a head rebuild I think is questionable.
IIRC, the camshafts on the 3.2 V6 don't drive the valves directly as on the 3.5V6. I may be wrong, but I think they are driven by rockers which should be adjustable.
I expect to make it well past 200K while preventing the lifter ticking using careful oil changes and high octane fuel for a cleaner running engine. At least my 1995 3.2L SOHC does not consume oil, well it will consume some oil during heavy towing, but not during regular driving.
Basically they are paid on commission based on how much service they sell. And that is mostly profit to the dealership.
-mike
Give me a break - I mean, how often does a manufacturer actually review the service history of a vehicle? I'm guessing not very often. Owners take their vehicles to non-dealer shops all the time; the dealer doesn't have access to this info. I'd think a dealer would press the owner for documentation only if it appeared clear that there was some neglect in a particular area.
No, you probably didn't get all the fluid out of the rear diffy if you simply drained and filled it. But that's how most shops would do that job. Is the service guy implying that the dealer hooks up some sort of fluid exchange/powerflush machine? I don't think I'd want that. If memory serves, the amount of fluid that drained from the rear diffy on our 98 Troop when I changed the fluid a while back was darn near the factory spec amount. So I'm confident that 95+% of the fluid drained out.
That dealer you spoke with probably has a giant list of unnecessary items bundled in with each service interval NOT specified by manufacturer. And dealer people wonder why customers can't stand dealerships!
Steve, Host
-mike
The very fact that my last service (50,000km / 30,000m) only cost me $122AUS with wiper arms and seat rails changed out as well under warranty, gives me some confidence that they are being honest with me. As far as I can tell, everything that was supposed to be done has been done, and amy warranty requests I make are done without question.
IIRC, Paisan has a good relationship going with his dealer too. Even though Paisan does a lot of work himself, I believe he hasn't had much grief with warranty.
If you find someone honest, hold on to them and build a relationship!
In general if you truck doesn't look abused and you are pretty nice to the service writers warranty work shouldn't be an issue.
-mike
-mike
-mike
-mike
Got the other one fixed and it's back on the road, and the spare is a spare again.
Also, the mid and high spec Jackaroos we're getting here still have the alloys as a spare. It's interesting that they are giving you the steel wheel as a spare now. The steel wheels on the base Jackaroo actually use a different wheel nut and the two aren't interchangeable. I wonder if it's a different wheel.
Hey I missed something here. What's with TOD in reverse? Has someone worked out how to do that?
This one you could look up either a specific vehicle (Trooper) or vehicle type (all suv's).
Steve, Host
-mike
-mike
Scroll back or search through some posts and you should find some discussion of this in the Isuzu Maintenance & Repair or Isuzu Trooper topics.
Note that the P/S system uses ATF.
However Mike raised a good point about different tyres sizes on the rear axle. It will lead to increased wear on the LSD as the diff will tend to lock up compensating for the different rotation speed of each tyre.
I'd get the spare changed to the larger size too. There is a 2% reduction in tyre revs/mile going from a 245/70 to a 255/70. In my mind that's something to worry about.
Mind you, that's less than the difference between my "new" spare and my well used road tyres, which are all 245/70!
I guess you would have to deliberately get the rear wheels to break traction, so as the front wheels can get some torque apportioned to them. Looks like I'll have to head to some dirt soon to test this theory.