TOD was first introduced in the US in the 1998 model year along with the 3.5 liter engine. I have a '98 with this configuration. Prior to 1998, the US Troopers used a shift-on-the-fly system, typical part-time 4WD, which was not intended for use on dry pavement. The dealer comparing sbcook's Trooper to a 96 was either ignorant or they were being deceptive.
I got my truck back tonight. 4wd doesn't engage. They were messing with the 4wd actuator, and probably left the vaccuum hose off.
Ugh. another 45 minutes there and back. I had to pick it up after hours because the service desk only works 9-5. I am happy to be done with this dealership.
Are we allowed to bad mouth dealerships on the forum? I am not a huge fan of that in general, but this is the 3rd time in a row I have had to go back because they haven't fixed or made a mistake. I cannot think of a worse dealership to buy a vehicle from. I am almost happy to have to pay for my truck to be fixed. I can choose a good place and get service.
With just a bit over 65K on my 2000 S TOD, I'm thinking about changing the spark plugs. Could you please tell me how you go about using compressed air to get the boot off? Does the coil over each plug pull up just enough to allow the adapter to be inserted into the shaft where the plug is. Would I use the metal needle adapter, or one of the larger plastic ones. I have a small compressor that should do the trick. Thanks!
When posting about your experience with a dealership, you may post only the dealership name, city, and state. You may not post a salesperson's name... etc. (per the Rules of the Road link above).
My Trooper is a puzzle and each time it gives me different problem. From this Monday, it has very strange/dangerous idle speed. The idle speed is as high as 2500 rpm. When I shift to D or R, it seems someone is pushing/hitting the car. On the road, with my foot off gas peddle, the car can reach a speed of 35 MPH by itself.
My fellow Trooper fans, do you guys have same experience? Or can some one tell me what's going wrong? Sure, I have to visit the dealer before my Trooper kills somebody.
You might want to check your throttle linkage to make sure its returning back to the throttle stop - butterfly valve in the throttle body may be partially stuck open / hanging on the gunk buildup in the ID of the throttle body & not closing properly. Pull the intake hose to the throttle body & check for proper butterfly open/close function. Also check the throttle cable for any fraying that could prevent the throttle from closing.
Side note: When I inspected the throttle body a few months ago, I noticed a ring of deposits around the throttle plate preventing the butterfly from opening completely. I was out of sensor safe Berryman's to clean it properly so I actuated the linkage to force the butterfly to scrape off the residue allowing the plate to open fully. This also solved my light engine ping problem ('00 3.5L).
The only other times I've experienced a high idle condition not related to linkage on recent engines is due to TPS (throttle positioner sensor) issues, off the top of my head.
I'm assuming that your condition occurs at all times - whether the engine is cold or warm.
If I remember correctly, just remove the screws that hold the coil on the block and boot. Pull up on the coil and if you are real lucky the boot/sleeve will come off as well. If not, then use one of the larger plastic adapters...one of them should just fit in the center hole and just a little bit of air pressure will release the boot from the spark plug and just pop it up. I was surprised how quick it popped off. (One other thing I seem to remember...several of the rear coil screws were tough to get to... I think you can use either a phillips or a socket...seems one of them I had to use a little funky screw driver I have with a 90* turn about 1 inch from the phillips head...some kind of flex driver would be real helpful.)
The only problem I had was with the spring that is inside the boot..one end goes on the bottom of the coil and the other goes over the top of the spark plug. Had trouble getting one to make a good connection and got a CEL. Once I got that corrected, the CEL went away and everything was good again.
Not completely. After the dealer flushed and filled the transmission, the shudder has all but stopped. However, they agree with me that because the fluid burned within 15K after the previous change, there is likely an internal problem with the gearbox.
A slight periodic shudder has reappeared, so I'll return to the dealer soon to start the process of replacing the transmission.
Do yourself a favor and pay the bucks to get a complete tranny flush before doing anything else.
I have had a shudder when shifting into gear with my 5 speed manual transmission. I determined that it was caused by dirty fuel injectors and or low octane fuel. At least it is true that running a dose of the Valvoline Fuel Injector Cleaner through made the shudder go away. Changing to low octane fuel can make it come back, possibly because my Trooper's enging computer is used to the higher octane.
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Could it be that on your transmissions shift into overdrive, it is demanding torque more quickly than the engine is ready to provide and the real problem with your shifting is engine hesitation?
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By the way, if your Trooper is old enough to have a distributer and spark plug wires, there is a product out there called www.directhits.com that makes the spark happen sooner and more sharply in time allowing your engine comuter to advance your timing for better responsiveness. For me towing with a 1995 Trooper directhits made the cange from 9.9 MPG to 11.2MPG, that difference verified on several long trips. I am only a directhits user, not selling anything.
I installed the firm set of shocks and rear coil springs today on my 2001 Trooper. The handling is better and ride more controlled, but not harsh. Next will be the poly sway bar bushings that I already have.
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Now that I have the new shocks to prevent tire wear problems, I will get that set of new tires maybe next month. I'm still torn between AT Revos and all season tires. I am ready for a quieter ride and taller 245/75 or 265/75 tires, but I don't want to give up the traction of the Revos. I might go with a set of P255/75 Dueler Alenza's for their softer rubber as they wear, or a set of Yokohama G051 for their $240 per set of fourlower cost and high consumer rating. Meanwhile my worn out Revos with only 3/32nds tread continue to amaze me with good traction on ice and wet roads.
The overdrive/shudder has been off and on. Yesterday had a new 'thunk' going from 2nd to 3rd, which immediately brought the check tran light on. Dealer replaced the transmission mode switch (not covered under warrenty) along with new ATF. Claims this should solve the problem(s). No shudder/thunks for now...... However I'm not sure who will win the race: me and my warrenty, my tranny, or isuzu sticking around long enough to honor a warrenty in 2006.
"Could it be that on your transmissions shift into overdrive, it is demanding torque more quickly than the engine is ready to provide and the real problem with your shifting is engine hesitation?"
Not likely. The shudder occurs during overdrive upshifts at almost any rpm, so it probably isn't related to the torque-curve. Also, there were no stored error codes, so engine misfire isn't an issue.
BTW, this is an '01 model - no distributor/plug wires.
Today I solved the idle speed problem by rebooting my Trooper. Yes, reboot. You may have heard of the old joke about Bill Gates and auto industry. Gates once commented on US auto industry: if auto industry adapts technology as Microsoft does, American cars will be as twice as efficient and cost 50% less. Then the CEO of GM replied him: Yeah, cars can be made as efficient as MS Window, but such cars will crash by themselves every other day and drivers just need to restart them to get them back into life.
What I did to my Trooper is exactly the same. I unhooked the battery cable to cut off the electricity (like what I did to my PC) then reconnected it again, and the idle speed became normal! Yeah, it is the damned computer (again).
Please help me decide on tires, I am wrestling with MPG vs traction and looks.
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My Tire selection short list:
Revo LT265/75R16C (15/32, 48 lbs.)
Revo P265/70R16 (13/32, 41 lbs.)
Revo LT245/75R16C (15/32, 41 lbs.)
Yokohama G051 LT265/75R16C (14/32, 45 lbs.)
Michelin LTX M/S P265/70R16 (14/32, 38 lbs.)
Michelin LTX M/S P265/75R16 (14/32, 39 lbs.)
Michelin LTX M/S LT265/75R16LRC (15/32, 45 lbs.)
Alenza P255/75R16 new size between 245 and 265.
Notes: Revo and Alenza are best traction over life of tire, second most expensive, best braking and handlng and least noise for their catagory. Yokohama is low cost, I can use the money I save buying them for the extra fuel to run the larger size. Michelin is the "$$$name$$$" tire, great tire by far the best when introduced, I think Yokohama will perform as well, exceprt LTX 265/70 is light weight = good MPG for 80K treadlife. And Alenza is better for braking, handling, and low noise. But, can't go wrong with LTX, or so I am told.
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Please reply with your MPG with 265/75R16 tires, and if possible specify LT or P type just in case there is a difference, LT heavier, but firmer might be less rolling resistance to cancel more energy to spin up.
Okay everyone, I've got to thank you all for your info. If it weren't for this forum I would be out $3500.00 like many of you out there. So, here's my story:
I have felt the OD shudder in our 2001 Trooper S 4wd for about 2 months and recently the A/T oil temp light came on. I have done some med/heavy towing (nothing too close to 5000lbs) and have been running 265/70 BFG AT's. I come across this forum last week and start freaking out about my transmission b/c for some reason I thought the powertrain warranty ended at 50K. So I immediately think I must sell it. After a slight emotional crisis I come to my senses and realize the warranty is good until 60K. Get this, we have 59,700mi on it. So right away I call around town and find some used 245/70's to get back to stock tire size and take it to Isuzu. Sure enough I now have a new tranny on the way to be installed next week.
Whew! That was close. Again, thank you all for sharing your stories to bring this to my attention. I would be up a certain creek if it weren't for you all. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Hi, I'm contemplating buying a silver 1999 Trooper S 3.5L with 56K miles on it. The owner says it's been great except for one "idiosyncrasy" in that the check engine light comes on and off seemingly based on how much gas is in the truck and if the gas cap is on tight. Besides that he says it's been fine, and he had a 45K mile tune-up that included replacing the serpentine belt. Has original tires and everything seems to work fine. The asking price is $8600 but I've pulled up TMV here on Edmunds and kbb and it's showing $7600. I guess I'm looking for feedback on if I should try to snap this up for $7500 or stay away all together. I've read the last 100 or so posts about people having all kinds of issues and it's making me leary. Anybody have any general comments before I pull the trigger? Known things to look for perhaps? I'm aware of Isuzu's financial situation, and there is a dealer 10 miles away, for how long who knows. The vehicle has never towed and never been offroad and always garaged here in Minnesota. Any input appreciated. Thanks
7600 / 8600 . . . you're probably good either way, although 7600 would be my top end for a '99. Yes, the gas cap does have to be on tight (3-4 clicks) in order to avoid the dreaded CEL.
At 56k. the tranny should have been flushed (not just drained) at least once, already. Otherwise, you'd better plan on spending $150 or so right away to get it done. I will have a new tranny on the way shortly, 'cause the dealer's drain and fill just doesn't cut it.
Serpentine belt at 50k is about right . . . minor expense anyway. Spark plugs should be changed around 50k, regardless of what the owner's manual says. Research this board a bit to find out why.
Those are the major issues. This truck is a real treat to own and drive, regardless of any contrary impression you may get from reading this board.
BTW, mine is an '01 LS 2WD with nearly 50k on the odo. NO probs, other than the funky OD shudder from the tranny that Isuzu will fix.
Okay, I bit the bullet today and replaced, at 50k, the oem Bridgestone Duellers on my '01 LS 2WD. Despite my better judgement, I cheaped out and bought Firestone Destination LE's in 255/70/16. Tire Rack user reviews indicate that this is one great tire for those of us who NEVER go off road.
BTW, the width / diameter increase over stock 245's may be small, but it IS noticeable. Unfortunately, so is the gearing change from my worn stock Duellers.
At around $500 with lifetime balance / rotation and a 30-day test drive guarantee, I figured I couldn't go wrong. More after I return from my Houston - New Orleans trip next week.
Per above, I'm looking at buying a 99 Trooper. I called the dealer to see if the previous owner had the tranny flushed, he said not here as he pulled up the records. He did however state that the manifold gaskets were replaced under warranty and, and fuel pressure regulator also done under warranty as it was hard starting. I then asked how much it was to service the tranny with a full on flush. He said $375!!! And they recommend it at every 15k miles. I was like WHAT?!?!?! That's crazy. Is that really true?????? He then said "it ain't cheap owning an Izuzu, most maintenance is expensive, but they have good 4x4 that's all serviceable". Seemed like a nice guy on the phone. I'm now wondering what to do...
I want to add a compass and maybe map lights. .. Is the wire harness for the suff in the headliner in the fancy models of Trooper still there in the Trooper-S so if I make a hole in the headliner between the sun visors, I will find a power lead? .. Thank You BoxTrooper
I've enjoyed reading all the Trooper discussions over the years. But, sadly my Trooper engine bit the dust last weekend so my time is done. We were on a snowboarding trip and in the middle of Montana when suddenly a loud banging sound came from the engine. As the truck was losing power I pulled to the side of the road and that's when all the engine warning lights finally appeared. The Isuzu service rep said the crank sized and that the engine was shot. I had checked the oil before leaving from Minnesota and everything was fine. The Isuzu guy claims he has seen this before and that possibly the PVF was fouled causing rapid oil burn. I had 70k on the truck so the warranty was expired since I bought my truck slightly used (9500 miles). Needless to say, I was a long way from home and in a bind. And, paying $6k for a new engine was not going to happen. I was only able to negociate $2k for my truck while looking at a new 4Runner and Pathfinder. Long and the short is I came home with a Pathfinder. I hate buying vehicles on the spot w/o any time to research but that's the way it went.
I have to say that the Trooper was by far the best vehicle I ever owned. I had planned to run it easily to 150k or more. So much for that.
Good luck to all and make sure you keep an eye on that oil level
I have a '00 Trooper LS, 2wd. with about 80,000. Last year I talked to Valvoline Instant Oil change shop about getting a full trans fluid replacement with that machine they have. He was going to do it that Saturday for about $70, I think their normal is about $89. I looked in my manual and the factory recommendation for normal service was 100,000 miles...so, at that time I punted. (I had about 70,000 at that time). I may have it done this year. I do have the 120 month, 120,000 warranty since I'm the original owner and I think there are still 2 Isuzu dealers in Memphis.
My condolences, losing a loved Trooper is tough. Did you have it customized or pure stock? .. 1.5 years after I put OME suspension and Revo tires on my 1995 Trooper it was rear ended and totalled because the air bags set off. Mine was white with no wheel flairs. I was accustomed to people (my boss's boss included) telling me they liked my Trooper. I naturally found another 5 speed Trooper even though my wife wanted me to get a Saturn car. I just added the OME firm suspension to my 2001 Trooper, The Revos from my 1995 are down to the wear bars, so my next set or Revo tires is ordered LT245/75R16C 41 lbs. These are as wide as 255, as tall as 265/70, they have 15/32 tread depth and are light enough to perform well on road without killing my MPG. (I like the look of the 285 tires on my Trooper but not the loss of MPG, maybe someday I'll have two sets of tires saving the big ones for off road) I've been driving Troopers since the summer of 1984, something like 375K miles total so far. .. My 1984 Trooper used oil 1qt/3000 miles at 30K that went up to 1qt./1000 miles at 201K. My 1995 never used a drop of oil that I could detect, except just a little while towing a heavy trailer. My 2001 uses some oil, but not enough to add between 3000 mile oil changes. I'm using Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic to make sure it lasts. I grew up with Valvoline as the family oil. My dad told me that it is more important to be consistent with the oil I choose than which brand of oil. I never used synthetic until about 1999 when I began towing for the first time. I got 201K from my 1984 on dyno oil, then sold it to buy a Trooper with air conditioning. http://www.valvoline.com/maxlife/
It was stock for the most part except for the poly bushings on the sway bar. Two months ago I put on Bridgestone Dueler Revo's, new brakes, and packed the bearings. I've used Mobil 1 since I bought the truck. Previous to the meltdown, I burned about 1 qt/1500 miles.
At the time, with no Trooper replacement coming from Isuzu we opted for the Honda Pilot.
Today I test drove an '05 Pathfinder. It reminds me a bit of an updated Trooper.
I think this is what the next generation Trooper should have been! It has a powerful 4.0l V6, real 4WD, three rows of seats, DVD, Navigation, tows 6000 lbs, etc.
I'm going to wait until the new diesels arrive in the USA before buying another new one. I should get many more years out of my current Trooper so I can even wait for the diesels to be out there a couple years before getting one. .. Once the diesel fuel requirements of 2006 take effect, the new diesels will be cleaner burning than the gasoline engines and 30% to 50% more fuel efficent. Since I drive the same Trooper 200K miles or more, and pay more for the fuel than the Trooper over those miles, I'd go for a diesel. .. The best would be a mild-hydrid which would use an electric torque converter / motor to reclaim braking energy to help quick accelleration after the light turns green and maybe even turn off the engine if stopped more than a short time and auto start it when the diesel pedal is pressed. The diesel engine itself would be large enough for long mountain roads pulling a trailer.
Back from NO, and I really like the Firestone Destination LE tires. Great wet traction, relatively quiet compared to the old Dueller 684's, good road feel and steering response. Gotta go back for a re-balance and alignment adjustment, but that's okay if the store can make both right.
As for the noticeable gearing change, I was wrong about that. It was low air pressure - the shop only put 30 lbs in the tires. I raised it to 35, and it now pulls away from a stop just like before.
hi, i have an 87 trooper with 2.3 and 5 speed.the engine is starting to use a little oil at 93k. and is also a little on the weak side for this size truck. what other engines will bolt to my tranny without a lot of frame mounting mods? thanks
My wife's minivan never got the sticker rated MPG until I increased the tire air pressure, which added 4 MPG. Now its at or better than the sticker rated MPG.
The 1987 Trooper might have also been available with a GM 3.1L V6, which shares the bolt pattern with a GM 3.4L V6. I don't know if these would fit for you. If they do fit, get the 3.4L (3.4 from Camaro?/Firebird?) since it performs much better than the 3.1L. I remember some complaining about the 3.1L that it had the power of a 4 cylinder and the MPG of an 8 cylinder. .. I do remeber lots of good things said about that 2.3L Isuzu 4 cylinder you are running now. That it was a very dependable and economical engine, very good torque for its size etc... Maybe a rebuild of the cylinder heads valves and carburator free flowing exhaust etc.. would be less expensive and give you the boost you are looking for.
I have an 2000 4wd s. I'm being told by the dealer that my car needs the following:
Upper/Lower Gasket worn out $440 - New Battery $189 - Timing Belt????? something about a new Timing Belt - Tranny Service $195 - Fuel Injection Throttle $169
All of this is NOT covered under the warranty - 8/80,000 is the coverage.
I already did the belt; my concern are the gaskets and FI. Am I wrong here?
Paul179, First of all, if your data is correct about the $189 battery, you are being taken advantage of. The battery can be replaced by yourself in a few minutes with a wrench. A $35 battery from Wallmart would work, but get a good quality battery maybe even an AGM. .. Second, with no warrantee, you have little reason to use a dealer. Check around for other places, make phone calls ask how much experience the shops have with Isuzu Troopers, ask when the last one was repaired there and what was repaired just to keep them honest. .. If you have only 80000 miles on your Trooper I thing the timing belt is not due to be changed yet, unless it has symtoms of impending failure. .. Upper/Lower gasket on what? What is the symptom that this gasket replacement will correct? .. I don't have an automatic transmission, someone else will have to answer that. If it is a manual transmission the "service" is just an oil change. Use top quality spare no expense on the transmission oil the transmission oil lasts a long time so good oil is a good investment. .. "Fuel Injection Throttle" is not clear to me what that means. If you have clogged injectors use an injector cleaner additive of the stronger type for use once a year and follow the instructions carefully. It is my experience that injector cleaner once a year is a big help, I do it in the beginning of winter because I think the additive I use by Valvoline seems to also dry out any water that has condensed in the fuel tank.
I checked my manual on '00 Trooper LS (2wd) and the interval on transmission flush was 100,000 miles.
Summer 2003 while working with my daughter on a deal for a 2002 Rodeo, sitting in the Isuzu/Chevy dealer's finance manager office, I was told kind of off-handed by the finance manager... "You have to get your timing belt replaced at 60,000 miles or you void your warranty... Well, I thought that was incorrect and later checked my IZUZU owners manual that specifies 90,000 miles for the replacement interval. I think that would override the dealerships attempt to change the service intervals for revenue enhancement.
I checked my manual on '00 Trooper LS (2wd) and the interval on transmission flush was 100,000 miles.
Accept that interval if you wish. The manual for my '01 LS (2WD) specifies NO tranny service before 120K, then it's check and adjust, or "change (if necessary)." Under "severe driving conditions" (none of which apply to me), the fluid should be changed every 20K.
Early in my Trooper's life, the tranny shuddered a bit when shifting into overdrive. Based on a lot of fellow owners' experiences, I had a fluid drain and fill (which leaves about half the old fluid in the torque converter) at 30K by my dealer. By 45K, the shudder had become much worse. I had the dealer power flush the tranny, and now, at 50K, the shudder has not come back.
Many members on this board have experienced tranny failures because they had no tranny fluid work at all prior to 50K, then tried a power flush. So much varnish and sludge had developed by that time that some of it failed to be flushed out. That residue eventually loosened, contaminated the oil passages, and the tranny soon self-destructed.
Granted that may be an extreme example, but there are enough Trooper tranny failures to convince me that a power flush every 30K is money well spent.
Do not immediately dismiss the dealer as evil for just the $189 battery. It is possible that they don't know the ease of changing the Trooper battery in the top of the front passenger side corner just like a most cars from the 1960's. Today, in crowded engine compartments with sideways engines and front drive it is often hard to even locate the battery. Then when you do find it, there is a bunch of stuff to take apart to get to it. Many batteries these days have an insuating cover that has to be removed gently so forcing your way in would not be a good idea, you must take the time to take everything in the way apart. .. I am thankful for the easy to work on design of my Trooper's engine compartment. I could do every maintenance myself if I chose to make the time, and not become upset with the layout.
I decided to take Yokohama up on their 30 day test drive. I had them installed last night. Drove about 30 miles on them so far. The Yokohamas seem a bit squirrelly compared to my previous worn out Revos. Maybe that's because I told them I like them stiff and they seem to have put in 40psi even though the sidewall says 35psi max. I'll check the pressure and try it out at 35psi as well. .. So far, I think I swap them out for another set of Revos in LT245/75R16LRC, reason - the AT Revos on-road handling seems better to me than the M/S rated Yokoham G051 and the LT Revos have 50psi rated on the sidewall. The Yokohamas in 265/70 black side out do look good on my Trooper and they are the least expensive option. .. I also looked at the LTX M/S, but I do think the design is too old to demand the top prices that they ask. I wouldn't buy a new copy of a 20 year old car design for top dollar either, even if it were an excellent design.
Comments
Isuzu told their technician they cannot look into any problems with the truck since I have over sized tires on the vehicle.
The dealership won't even look at it anymore. They won't admit to a problem. Looks like I am getting a new truck...if I want an automatic 4wd system.
Anyone interested in an old Isuzu? Not sure where to go at this point.
Ugh. another 45 minutes there and back. I had to pick it up after hours because the service desk only works 9-5. I am happy to be done with this dealership.
Are we allowed to bad mouth dealerships on the forum? I am not a huge fan of that in general, but this is the 3rd time in a row I have had to go back because they haven't fixed or made a mistake. I cannot think of a worse dealership to buy a vehicle from. I am almost happy to have to pay for my truck to be fixed. I can choose a good place and get service.
Let 'em have it :-)
Steve, Host
My fellow Trooper fans, do you guys have same experience? Or can some one tell me what's going wrong? Sure, I have to visit the dealer before my Trooper kills somebody.
Thanks!
Peter
What year is your Trooper and what engine does it have? Is it a recent model with drive by wire or is it the older cable throttle type?
It keeps bugging me. Most recently problems include:
Intake Manifold (?) Gasket (changed twice)
Engine stalls in front of traffic light (after gasket changes)
Chronically check engine light (fuel thin code) problem, after 4 visits, dealer recommended a new fuel pump ($700+ costs, hasn’t done yet).
Side note: When I inspected the throttle body a few months ago, I noticed a ring of deposits around the throttle plate preventing the butterfly from opening completely. I was out of sensor safe Berryman's to clean it properly so I actuated the linkage to force the butterfly to scrape off the residue allowing the plate to open fully. This also solved my light engine ping problem ('00 3.5L).
The only other times I've experienced a high idle condition not related to linkage on recent engines is due to TPS (throttle positioner sensor) issues, off the top of my head.
I'm assuming that your condition occurs at all times - whether the engine is cold or warm.
The only problem I had was with the spring that is inside the boot..one end goes on the bottom of the coil and the other goes over the top of the spark plug. Had trouble getting one to make a good connection and got a CEL. Once I got that corrected, the CEL went away and everything was good again.
Good luck...bill
A slight periodic shudder has reappeared, so I'll return to the dealer soon to start the process of replacing the transmission.
Do yourself a favor and pay the bucks to get a complete tranny flush before doing anything else.
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Could it be that on your transmissions shift into overdrive, it is demanding torque more quickly than the engine is ready to provide and the real problem with your shifting is engine hesitation?
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By the way, if your Trooper is old enough to have a distributer and spark plug wires, there is a product out there called www.directhits.com that makes the spark happen sooner and more sharply in time allowing your engine comuter to advance your timing for better responsiveness. For me towing with a 1995 Trooper directhits made the cange from 9.9 MPG to 11.2MPG, that difference verified on several long trips. I am only a directhits user, not selling anything.
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Now that I have the new shocks to prevent tire wear problems, I will get that set of new tires maybe next month. I'm still torn between AT Revos and all season tires. I am ready for a quieter ride and taller 245/75 or 265/75 tires, but I don't want to give up the traction of the Revos. I might go with a set of P255/75 Dueler Alenza's for their softer rubber as they wear, or a set of Yokohama G051 for their $240 per set of fourlower cost and high consumer rating. Meanwhile my worn out Revos with only 3/32nds tread continue to amaze me with good traction on ice and wet roads.
Outside of this - still love the truck.
Steve, Host
Not likely. The shudder occurs during overdrive upshifts at almost any rpm, so it probably isn't related to the torque-curve. Also, there were no stored error codes, so engine misfire isn't an issue.
BTW, this is an '01 model - no distributor/plug wires.
What I did to my Trooper is exactly the same. I unhooked the battery cable to cut off the electricity (like what I did to my PC) then reconnected it again, and the idle speed became normal! Yeah, it is the damned computer (again).
Did you run a spy sweeper program on the Trooper, Peterisme? It may come to that:
Computer Viruses Could Affect Your Car, Says IBM (Inside Line)
Steve, Host
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My Tire selection short list:
Revo LT265/75R16C (15/32, 48 lbs.)
Revo P265/70R16 (13/32, 41 lbs.)
Revo LT245/75R16C (15/32, 41 lbs.)
Yokohama G051 LT265/75R16C (14/32, 45 lbs.)
Michelin LTX M/S P265/70R16 (14/32, 38 lbs.)
Michelin LTX M/S P265/75R16 (14/32, 39 lbs.)
Michelin LTX M/S LT265/75R16LRC (15/32, 45 lbs.)
Alenza P255/75R16 new size between 245 and 265.
Notes: Revo and Alenza are best traction over life of tire, second most expensive, best braking and handlng and least noise for their catagory. Yokohama is low cost, I can use the money I save buying them for the extra fuel to run the larger size. Michelin is the "$$$name$$$" tire, great tire by far the best when introduced, I think Yokohama will perform as well, exceprt LTX 265/70 is light weight = good MPG for 80K treadlife. And Alenza is better for braking, handling, and low noise. But, can't go wrong with LTX, or so I am told.
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Please reply with your MPG with 265/75R16 tires, and if possible specify LT or P type just in case there is a difference, LT heavier, but firmer might be less rolling resistance to cancel more energy to spin up.
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I have felt the OD shudder in our 2001 Trooper S 4wd for about 2 months and recently the A/T oil temp light came on. I have done some med/heavy towing (nothing too close to 5000lbs) and have been running 265/70 BFG AT's. I come across this forum last week and start freaking out about my transmission b/c for some reason I thought the powertrain warranty ended at 50K. So I immediately think I must sell it. After a slight emotional crisis I come to my senses and realize the warranty is good until 60K. Get this, we have 59,700mi on it. So right away I call around town and find some used 245/70's to get back to stock tire size and take it to Isuzu. Sure enough I now have a new tranny on the way to be installed next week.
Whew! That was close. Again, thank you all for sharing your stories to bring this to my attention. I would be up a certain creek if it weren't for you all. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I'm contemplating buying a silver 1999 Trooper S 3.5L with 56K miles on it. The owner says it's been great except for one "idiosyncrasy" in that the check engine light comes on and off seemingly based on how much gas is in the truck and if the gas cap is on tight. Besides that he says it's been fine, and he had a 45K mile tune-up that included replacing the serpentine belt. Has original tires and everything seems to work fine. The asking price is $8600 but I've pulled up TMV here on Edmunds and kbb and it's showing $7600. I guess I'm looking for feedback on if I should try to snap this up for $7500 or stay away all together. I've read the last 100 or so posts about people having all kinds of issues and it's making me leary. Anybody have any general comments before I pull the trigger? Known things to look for perhaps? I'm aware of Isuzu's financial situation, and there is a dealer 10 miles away, for how long who knows. The vehicle has never towed and never been offroad and always garaged here in Minnesota. Any input appreciated.
Thanks
At 56k. the tranny should have been flushed (not just drained) at least once, already. Otherwise, you'd better plan on spending $150 or so right away to get it done. I will have a new tranny on the way shortly, 'cause the dealer's drain and fill just doesn't cut it.
Serpentine belt at 50k is about right . . . minor expense anyway. Spark plugs should be changed around 50k, regardless of what the owner's manual says. Research this board a bit to find out why.
Those are the major issues. This truck is a real treat to own and drive, regardless of any contrary impression you may get from reading this board.
BTW, mine is an '01 LS 2WD with nearly 50k on the odo. NO probs, other than the funky OD shudder from the tranny that Isuzu will fix.
BTW, the width / diameter increase over stock 245's may be small, but it IS noticeable. Unfortunately, so is the gearing change from my worn stock Duellers.
At around $500 with lifetime balance / rotation and a 30-day test drive guarantee, I figured I couldn't go wrong. More after I return from my Houston - New Orleans trip next week.
He is a salesperson. It does have a good 4x4 system that is serviceable.
I would shop around for a better price. Also if you are going to get it flushed you want to have them "drop the pan and clean the filter".
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Is the wire harness for the suff in the headliner in the fancy models of Trooper still there in the Trooper-S so if I make a hole in the headliner between the sun visors, I will find a power lead?
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Thank You
BoxTrooper
I have to say that the Trooper was by far the best vehicle I ever owned. I had planned to run it easily to 150k or more. So much for that.
Good luck to all and make sure you keep an eye on that oil level
Bill
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1.5 years after I put OME suspension and Revo tires on my 1995 Trooper it was rear ended and totalled because the air bags set off. Mine was white with no wheel flairs. I was accustomed to people (my boss's boss included) telling me they liked my Trooper. I naturally found another 5 speed Trooper even though my wife wanted me to get a Saturn car. I just added the OME firm suspension to my 2001 Trooper, The Revos from my 1995 are down to the wear bars, so my next set or Revo tires is ordered LT245/75R16C 41 lbs. These are as wide as 255, as tall as 265/70, they have 15/32 tread depth and are light enough to perform well on road without killing my MPG. (I like the look of the 285 tires on my Trooper but not the loss of MPG, maybe someday I'll have two sets of tires saving the big ones for off road) I've been driving Troopers since the summer of 1984, something like 375K miles total so far.
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My 1984 Trooper used oil 1qt/3000 miles at 30K that went up to 1qt./1000 miles at 201K. My 1995 never used a drop of oil that I could detect, except just a little while towing a heavy trailer. My 2001 uses some oil, but not enough to add between 3000 mile oil changes. I'm using Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic to make sure it lasts. I grew up with Valvoline as the family oil. My dad told me that it is more important to be consistent with the oil I choose than which brand of oil. I never used synthetic until about 1999 when I began towing for the first time. I got 201K from my 1984 on dyno oil, then sold it to buy a Trooper with air conditioning. http://www.valvoline.com/maxlife/
At the time, with no Trooper replacement coming from Isuzu we opted for the Honda Pilot.
Today I test drove an '05 Pathfinder. It reminds me a bit of an updated Trooper.
I think this is what the next generation Trooper should have been! It has a powerful 4.0l V6, real 4WD, three rows of seats, DVD, Navigation, tows 6000 lbs, etc.
Too bad Isuzu could not do this.
-Eric
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Once the diesel fuel requirements of 2006 take effect, the new diesels will be cleaner burning than the gasoline engines and 30% to 50% more fuel efficent. Since I drive the same Trooper 200K miles or more, and pay more for the fuel than the Trooper over those miles, I'd go for a diesel.
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The best would be a mild-hydrid which would use an electric torque converter / motor to reclaim braking energy to help quick accelleration after the light turns green and maybe even turn off the engine if stopped more than a short time and auto start it when the diesel pedal is pressed. The diesel engine itself would be large enough for long mountain roads pulling a trailer.
As for the noticeable gearing change, I was wrong about that. It was low air pressure - the shop only put 30 lbs in the tires. I raised it to 35, and it now pulls away from a stop just like before.
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I do remeber lots of good things said about that 2.3L Isuzu 4 cylinder you are running now. That it was a very dependable and economical engine, very good torque for its size etc... Maybe a rebuild of the cylinder heads valves and carburator free flowing exhaust etc.. would be less expensive and give you the boost you are looking for.
Upper/Lower Gasket worn out $440
- New Battery $189
- Timing Belt????? something about a new Timing Belt
- Tranny Service $195
- Fuel Injection Throttle $169
All of this is NOT covered under the warranty - 8/80,000 is the coverage.
I already did the belt; my concern are the gaskets and FI. Am I wrong here?
First of all, if your data is correct about the $189 battery, you are being taken advantage of. The battery can be replaced by yourself in a few minutes with a wrench. A $35 battery from Wallmart would work, but get a good quality battery maybe even an AGM.
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Second, with no warrantee, you have little reason to use a dealer. Check around for other places, make phone calls ask how much experience the shops have with Isuzu Troopers, ask when the last one was repaired there and what was repaired just to keep them honest.
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If you have only 80000 miles on your Trooper I thing the timing belt is not due to be changed yet, unless it has symtoms of impending failure.
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Upper/Lower gasket on what? What is the symptom that this gasket replacement will correct?
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I don't have an automatic transmission, someone else will have to answer that. If it is a manual transmission the "service" is just an oil change. Use top quality spare no expense on the transmission oil the transmission oil lasts a long time so good oil is a good investment.
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"Fuel Injection Throttle" is not clear to me what that means. If you have clogged injectors use an injector cleaner additive of the stronger type for use once a year and follow the instructions carefully. It is my experience that injector cleaner once a year is a big help, I do it in the beginning of winter because I think the additive I use by Valvoline seems to also dry out any water that has condensed in the fuel tank.
What a bunch of cons! Run away before it's too late...
Summer 2003 while working with my daughter on a deal for a 2002 Rodeo, sitting in the Isuzu/Chevy dealer's finance manager office, I was told kind of off-handed by the finance manager... "You have to get your timing belt replaced at 60,000 miles or you void your warranty... Well, I thought that was incorrect and later checked my IZUZU owners manual that specifies 90,000 miles for the replacement interval. I think that would override the dealerships attempt to change the service intervals for revenue enhancement.
Accept that interval if you wish. The manual for my '01 LS (2WD) specifies NO tranny service before 120K, then it's check and adjust, or "change (if necessary)." Under "severe driving conditions" (none of which apply to me), the fluid should be changed every 20K.
Early in my Trooper's life, the tranny shuddered a bit when shifting into overdrive. Based on a lot of fellow owners' experiences, I had a fluid drain and fill (which leaves about half the old fluid in the torque converter) at 30K by my dealer. By 45K, the shudder had become much worse. I had the dealer power flush the tranny, and now, at 50K, the shudder has not come back.
Many members on this board have experienced tranny failures because they had no tranny fluid work at all prior to 50K, then tried a power flush. So much varnish and sludge had developed by that time that some of it failed to be flushed out. That residue eventually loosened, contaminated the oil passages, and the tranny soon self-destructed.
Granted that may be an extreme example, but there are enough Trooper tranny failures to convince me that a power flush every 30K is money well spent.
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I am thankful for the easy to work on design of my Trooper's engine compartment. I could do every maintenance myself if I chose to make the time, and not become upset with the layout.
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So far, I think I swap them out for another set of Revos in LT245/75R16LRC, reason - the AT Revos on-road handling seems better to me than the M/S rated Yokoham G051 and the LT Revos have 50psi rated on the sidewall. The Yokohamas in 265/70 black side out do look good on my Trooper and they are the least expensive option.
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I also looked at the LTX M/S, but I do think the design is too old to demand the top prices that they ask. I wouldn't buy a new copy of a 20 year old car design for top dollar either, even if it were an excellent design.