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Isuzu Trooper



  • cmunizcmuniz Posts: 604
    I do my first oil change at 3,000 and subsequent ones between 3-5,000 miles. Although most manufacturers recommend doing it at longer intervals.
  • Here are some facts for you guys to ponder:

    1. Recent trip from Henderson, N.C. to Charleston, S.C. and back,totaling 646 miles--mostly across flat country.
    2. Air pressure (cold) was: 33 lbs front, 37 lbs. rear
    3. Speed ranged from 65 mph to 75 mph with about 70 much of the time.
    4. Mobil One oil used: 10-30
    5. Vehicle carried 2 persons and normal luggage
    6. Burned regular unleaded gas.
    7. Vehicle was 99 Trooper with 29K miles.
    8. Gas mileage was calculated to be:18.3 mpg.

    Okay, how was the mileage, good? bad? or ugly?
  • jrr2kjrr2k Posts: 35
    The 02 Trooper got its 1st oil change yesterday. I think nothing brings out the fanatics like engine oil/oil filter topics. I admit being a huge nut!:) The 02 owners manual says "Your engine was filled with a high quality engine oil when it was built. You do not have to change this oil before the suggested change period" I wonder what the high quality oil is?
    Flyinlow - I think if you change your orig. factory fill oil at 1000 mi. you definately want to use a high quality syn. oil for the refill. New engines need TLC for their break in.
    Boxtroop - I like the idea of the larger filter. What is the diff. on the bypass pressure setting versus the stock filter? I think that Purolator rated well on the data sheets I saw. I used a Mobil 1 filter ($10 but HEAVY DUTY) and a 20% synthetic Mobil 1 blend 10w30 for the fill.
    Anyone know the maker of the original Isuzu oil filter? That thing was tough! Stubborn as a mule to get loose though. Or maybe I was weak from Turkey overdose.
  • I wouldn't make a switch to a synthetic or synthetic blend at 1k - you want the rings to seat properly w/ dino juice. As for TLC, it is better to vary engine speeds even with an occasional but progressive 3/4 romp up on the rev range to help expand the piston rings against the cylinder walls to obtain maximum engine compression (i.e. increase max rpm's by 500 during the break-in period), YMMV. I would also avoid lugging it around in Winter Drive mode... :)
    I prefer to use the Mobil 1 or the K&N filter equivalent in my Gen II SHO but only because of concerns w/ the very high flow demands of the oiling system & pressure drop - flows 5 quarts through the sump about every 6 seconds @ 43 psi at 6400 rpms (12.1 GPM). Some filters haven't been tested past 3 GPM, IIRC. I'm not sure what our oil pump is rated for in the Troop. (anyone know?) but I doubt that it's as high as my full Yamaha engine...satisfied w/ the OEM Trooper filter at this time.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    Your mileage was about average.

    A couple of tips -

    Try running your tyres at 36psi all round next time (front & back) on a trip like this. I find this has a significant effect on consumption. However not much is gained by going over 36psi. You will also find it steers and tracks better with the front at 36psi. (As an FYI...I have BFG A/T's running at 36psi all the time and there is no accelerated wear in the centre of the tread).

    You will get much better mileage at 60mph. Mind you, I always set the cruise control to about 115kmh (70mph) anyway. OK, so I don't follow my own advice.

    Use the cruise control as much as practical when on a long drive. Of course commonsense has to prevail as to when you use it.

    Try all that and you might crack the 20mpg mark.

    I'm assuming you're running 245/70R16 size tyres?
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    I did find one guy down here whose '99 Jackaroo consumes oil. It goes through 0.25 litres every 5000 km. He uses Castrol GTX3 and the vehicle has 80000km on it.

    In US measures... 0.26qts every 3000 miles. 48000 miles on the clock.

    To me, that's acceptable.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Sounds about average for that year Trooper. Depends how much of the trip was highway driving (constant speed) vs. city/non-highway. I'm assuming most of it was highway driving.
  • Yea I was running 245/70R/16 tires and had it on cruise control much of the time. The traffic was so heavy that I was continually going on/off cruise control, however. I'll experiment with running 36 lbs. all around. I also will install a new air filter. The best mileage I have ever obtained was 19.4 mpg, which occurred using the A/C and fully loaded with luggage.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    18.1 isn't bad @ 70mph. Anything over 60mph and the milage goes down significantly. I found at 60mph I could break 20mpg but over 60-65 and it drops through the floor.

  • cobbocobbo Posts: 34
    I don't know how ya'll do it...I only get 14.1 mpg and don't go more than 5 above the limit, so I've got a high end of 70 - 75 depending upon where I'm at...
    Hope ya'll had a happy turkey day...*wave*
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I pretty consistently get about 15 mpg around town, a little higher on the highway - not much higher though, if I push 80 I probably stay around 15 mpg. Highest I ever measured was about 18.

    I just remembered these numbers are uncompensated for tire size, which would add 7% to the mpg, but they are rough numbers anyway. I don't get out the calculator or anything when I fill up...
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    City: 15.4
    Hwy:55-75 MPH range: 18.7 (2x300+ mile trips)

    My truck is a 99, tire pressure 35 font and back (standard 245s), TOD Auto OFF (although I just put it on for winter).

    Oil consumption after 3000 miles: < 1 pint
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    Just measured 17.1 MPG on my 98 Troop with 50k. Most of the distance covered was flat highway driving at 70-75mph. Vehicle had 2.5 people and a fair bit of luggage. Tires were at 33psi all around. My tires are 255 instead of the stock 245, so actual MPG is a few tenths higher. I've used a GPS to measure my speedo, and it showed about 1.5mph slow at 70mph. This agrees pretty closely with the calculated value of 1.9% error as shown on the miata tire calc site ( Taking this into account, my "corrected" MPG was more like 17.4.
  • It occurs to me that educated, professional engineers design a specific filter for a specific purpose and they probably had a pretty good idea of what was the proper filter area and pressure/flow requirements when the engine was designed. Unless they worked for the government, of course. But all this chatter makes me think that maybe you all know something they don't. Am I remiss in "only" using a PL14459 replacement on my 2WD commuter version? Or can I "assume" that this higher end stock spec replacement is going to serve just fine with frequent oil/filter changes.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If you push your vehicle like some of us, then you want to go above and beyond the "recommended" items. For std. use my guess is that the std one will work fine.

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Is there a feature on the Trooper that automatically locks the doors after you exit the vehicle, even if you don't hit the remote lock button? My wife swears the Trooper is locking itself after she gets out, without her requesting it! She left her keys in it the other day along with the remote and it locked her out. Truth or forgetful???
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Lately I've been noticing a 'thump' or 'clunk' as the Limit Slip Diff. disengages. Anyone else had this phenom. happen to them? Should there be a noticable sound as the LSD disengages to 'coast'? Maybe I need to take a look at the diff. oil level?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    How do you know the LSD is engaged?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Not factory installed.

  • The designers probably were told to use the standard filter that always has been used. Without the requirement to use the standard filter (PL14559 is the standard Honda fitler too), more options are available.
    The standard filter will work great, I have changed to the higher capacity PL24458 because my 1995 SOHC Trooper can get the lifter tick noise and I am trying to find all the inexpensive ways to prevent the noise from coming back. The replacement of all the lifter ticking parts in both heads would be around $3000!!!! I want my Trooper to last 200K to 300K without that expensive repair.
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    The LSD is always engaged. It is not a locking differential. It just has a series of clutch plates preloaded to permit slippage in turns but also permitting a certain amount of torque to be applied to the wheels. To my knowledge, there should be no clunks or thumps because there is nothing "engaging." If there is chattering, it's because the clutch plates are not slipping smoothly. That's why an additive is required. It conditions the clutch plates to slip smoothly with no stiction.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    The truck will lock itself if no doors are opened after 10 (or so) seconds after unlocked via remote.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That it will do.

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    There is something going on back there. I'm familiar with the chatter issues on the LSD. I've gone thru that with my 97' before. This is totally different. If you listen closely with no radio playing, you too might notice what sounds like a dis-engagement taking place in the driveline. I'm not sure just where, but it sounds like it's coming from the rear end area. Funny thing is I don't notice it ever engaging. There is no sound or feel of anything happening as I move forward out of a 'coast' condition. Hard to explain, but there is also somewhat of a HUMMMMM as it dis-engages.
  • Greetings All,
    I just took delivery of a new Trooper S. This is my third Trooper(if you count the Acura SLX I bought in 96). I traded in a 97 Trooper S with 90k miles on it. I'm glad to have the TOD! Anyway, because I had my heart set on Moonmist Gray, I had only one car to choose from and it does not have a CD player. Does anyone have thoughts on where I can get one? I don't want to completely trash the existing radio because it has a cassette player that I need. So I'd really like to just add a CD player in the slot under the current radio (I want a player and not a changer). I'll be checking as soon as I complete this post. The dealer said it would be $400 to add the Isuzu player and he suggested I go aftermarket.

    Also, since my Trooper was so inexpensive, I want to add some "cool" stuff to it. Namely brush bars, lights etc. Do you have any ideas where I can find this stuff at reasonable prices?

    FYI here are the numbers on my deal 2002 Trooper S, with TOD and Isuzu-issue bug shield (I think those are the only two options).

    Selling price: $22,000
    Traded in 97 Trooper (blue - my kids call it purple but it's BLUE!) with 90k miles, cracked windshield, large dent running the length of the front left fender, another good sized dent on the rear door, and almost bald tires. Got $9,000 for the trade in.

    Although I think the selling price might be a little high, I was really pleased with the $9k for my trade in so that makes up for it.

    I live in Colorado.

    Thanks for your thoughts! if I haven't written enough already...BUT...are there any Trooper Clubs in Colorado (Denver area) I can hang out with?
  • I just saw these statistics on Yahoo! It looks like they only sold 502 Troopers that month:

    I still see a bunch of them sitting around at a few remaining dealerships in the Atlanta area.

  • tr0sstr0ss Posts: 14
    My '99 troop with 49K has been doing this for a while ... When I start it in the mornings, it cranks for a while then will eventually start, but kills almost immediately. The next time I start is fine. The other day, I was idling (after having driven for a while) and it just killed on me.

    Now, I replaced the battery not too long ago. Can anyone guess what this might be? Could it be spark plugs?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could it be the u-joint bolts are loose?

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I had similar issues recently. I replaced my battery and it stopped.

    I think there are a few things you can look at...Fuel regulator...someone else just had this replaced with similar symptoms. Intake manifold gasket...this is known to go on some 99's (I guess due to bad glue used during installation?)...Exhaust issues? My catalytic converter just went, it has caused some rough running here and there.
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