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Isuzu Trooper



  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Hey guys, I'm also having issues with gas mileage and rough idle at times. First off, I got larger circumference tires which slowed the odometer reading by 3.27% and I'm calculating that into my mileage figures. However, my mileage has gone from 17's to 12's. I've discussed the problem with my dealer and he said that the ECU re-program is covered under the 3/50k b to b warranty? Has anyone had it done after that? Seems to me it should be a part of the powertrain warranty. Getting ready to go to Oregon next week, and I would like to get it fixed by then. By the way Mike your site is looking good, like mud whomping pics! also that Lund Iterceptor is nice!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The ECU isn't covered on the PT warranty IIRC, so I can see how that could be. Most dealer's I'd think would do it for free though. Thanks, i updated the site so there shouldn't be too many dead links.

  • Has anyone added an auxilliary condenser cooling fan to their Trooper? If so, did it help? Are their any other a/c upgrades available?

    I'm in Phoenix so a/c is pretty important. We really like our Trooper, but our toddler was soaked with sweat every time we took her our of her car seat last summer. Yep, I already know to use recirc, have dark tinted windows, and use a sun shade!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    What year trooper do you have? The pre '01s didn't have a secondary electric cooling fan in front of the condenser, in '01->'02 they have an extra electrical fan. I'm planning on getting one of those eventually on mine.

  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    I replaced my B-Stone 684's with more of the same. I think I could have run them them to 60 or 65K but the deal was too good to pass up. I paid 79.95 each on sale. They had 10 now they have 6. The Goodrich version of the 245/70/16 stock tire was on sale for 74.95, they have 28 left. I was thinking Michelin but could not rationlize the 120-135 per tire cost. Central NJ location. Email me if you would like the name of the place. Next, anybody do a fuel filter yet? Can you DIY it or is it some pressure-ized thing best left to a mechanic? Cheers to all!
  • I have a 1995 Trooper with very cold A/C. So this idea is not needed for me. I have looked at roof racks a bunch of times and I ended up installing Thule crossbars at all three factory pre-threaded locations. In considering how to strap on top some kids bikes I considered a 1/8" thick plastic layer applied directly to the roof and hot molded to fit tight against the roof's curves then calked down. Such a layer might provide some insulation from solar heating. That's why I am talking about roof racks on a A/C thread. I did not install the plastic yet since I have not figured out what kind of plastic would hold up to the sun and be able to mold to the shape of the roof.

    Maybe there is a basket roof rack that can be made to provide some shade from the Phoenix sun. In Phoenix I don't think platic will last very long on the roof.

    Here's a radical high tech solution: Use a roof rack full of solar cells to run a bunch of solid state cooling devices like the ones in 12 Volt electric coolers mounted to the roof under the solar cells. You would need some fans in it to help remove the heat from the outside side of the coolig devices. In winter the same rig could warm the car. You could be the first one on your block with a solar assisted automotive HVAC system.

    I am not sure if a roof rack could provide enough shade to make a difference.

    Is there a Trooper owner in Phoenix with a full roof rack that could put some stuff up there to block the sun next summer and give a report on how hot the car is inside wih and without roof rack shade?

    Thank You
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I haven't done my Trooper yet. However on another vehicle I would take the gas cap off first to try and vent some pressure. I would also do it when the gas tank was close to empty so as to have less hydrostatic pressure. In addition I would pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine 30 seconds or so until to it died to try and depressure line. Even then there would always be some liquid in there that would spill out. Consequently I never did the change on a hot engine or around any other ignition sources. I also had a fire extinguisher very handy just in case.

    Now on my 99 Trooper I have two other concerns. First, on the other vehicle the access was from above so any spills would fall away from me. On my 99 Trooper the access is from below and any spills could fall or even spray down on me while I am under there. Second, I am concerned that that running a fuel injected engine with the fuel pump off could wreck something. Consequently I am not sure if I am going to do this change myself.

    If anybody knows the correct way to do this please let us know.
  • I don't know about plastic, but I wonder if anyone has ever installed mirrored film directly to the roof of an SUV. The Trooper's so tall it's not like it would be visible except to passing 18 wheelers.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I haven't done my fuel filter yet, but I have done it on my previous vehicles. breakor, you basically have it right...depressurize the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine until it dies (if it starts at all). I am not aware of any way this could hurt the engine. Obviously, don't crank the starter so long you burn it up.

    You're will get some gas running out of the filter and fuel lines when you pull the old one off, and since as you noted you will be underneath the vehicle, have plenty of rags handy, and wear safety glasses.

    Other than that, there isn't anything tricky about it.
  • Just a warning....I was told you should never do what you all are saying ie. pull the FF fuse and run until the Troop stalls. Also after changing the filter you should put the key in and turn it to the level just before ignition and keep it there for a minute. This will allow the pump to pull gas into all the lines where the fuel has leaked out and left empty voids. Just my two cents!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Didn't know you needed to evacuate the lines. I figured I'd undo the connections dump the fuel into a buck from the lines, and then put in the new filter, and turn the car right over. I'm used to spilling fuel all overmyself from my outboard engine so that doesn't scare me.

  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    My vague recollection (misrecollection?) is that fuel injectors somehow get damaged if they are activated with no pressurized fuel in the line. If correct, that would be a problem with cranking the engine with the fuel pump off.

    Then again maybe I am confusing this with the warning not to run the fuel pump with a completely empty tank as that supposedly damages the pump.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You are correct on that. If you continue to crank the pump when empty it will burn out your fuel pump. The liquid gasoline is used as a coolant for the pump. I've heard that before, mostly on Rodeos, if you keep cranking with no fuel the fuel pump life is reduced.

  • aimanaiman Posts: 61
    I saw on CNN a few days ago and says that the Trooper will be discontinued. I'm sure part of the decision comes from GM (partially owns Isuzu but has pretty strong power in decision making) who doesn't wants to cut down competition.

    I think it's very sad. The Trooper is a wonderful but underrated and not mainstream styled SUV.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    WOW. Just spent the day towing around a 2200lb car carrier + 2900lb 280zx. This time I loaded the car onto the trailer so that it had a much better balance (backed it ont he trailer instead of nose in) and it handled like a champ. No bucking, no problems. Other than slower accelerations (and only slightly at that) I didn't even know the trailer was there. Braking was good (trailer had surge brakes) and milage dropped to about 14mpg.

  • i30g20i30g20 Posts: 24
    < $24,000 out the door for 2001 Limited. Factory rep model w/ 5252 miles. Very pleased with this my third (and sadly last) Trooper. My first Trooper had 212k when it died (my fault). It subsequent got a new engine and for a few years I used to see my 1st Trooper (it had an a strange bumper facade partially missing (so I knew it was mine). The second I sold to a bicycle mechanic/mtn bike racer who uses to travel all up and down the E. Coast -- I sold that one with > 175,000 miles. Both were tops in reliability. I'm hoping for the same on new one.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    reminded me of a mysterious connection I had with my 1977 Suburban (baby blue w/ a white stripe - as featured in a current Chevy commercial w/ girl on ski team). My dad bought it new when I was about 8 yrs. old. I drove it to college in Colorado. It ran perfectly up to about 175k miles, then, I was done with school and bought another car. Dad took it to trade in (get rid of) on a new truck in 1992. It was traded in in Northern Colorado, I saw it about 3 months later sitting on a "Mom and Pop" lot on Federal Blvd. in Denver (distinctive aftermarket rear bumper, and VERY distinctive "dimples" in the front bumper where I rear-ended my friend's VW bug, then pulled it out by hooking up to a tree and backing up!!!! :) ), THEN, get this, I'm in the Buttermilk Ski Resort parking lot (Aspen, essentially) TWO YEARS later, and I see a rough looking guy in MY SUBURBAN!!! Amazing. I started to think I should have kept that thing. It obviously appreciated me. :) Thought I would share. Plus, there is a Chevy/Isuzu connection here.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    in PA has 9 '01 troopers for sale around $19K listed in the paper. I think they are/were demo units...
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    been there, done that. Not a big deal. Need to have rags to soak up spilt fuel. Need the new filter close at hand to install quickly. If there's any fuel in the tank it will gravity flow right out the old filter when you disconnect the outlet line. A golf tee makes a good temporary hose plug. Did mine at 55,000 miles and there was no restriction in the filter itself. Evidence of clean fuel history. Like Pasian said, no need to do all those pre-maintenance things. Just go pull the thing and put the new one in. Be sure to observe the direction of flow arrow on the side of the old and new filter. Orient correctly. Count on spilling gas, just be ready for it to prevent a dangerous situation.

    About these new CHEAP Troopers... that Limited with a few miles on it sounds like an incredible DEAL!! I just visited my dealer and they have one last NEW 01' which is a Limited. They are offering $7000 off sticker and 0% financing. But the sticker on it is over $33000. I think it's only a 2WD as well. But it is a beauty!!

    To my surprise they had 4 low mileage 01" used Troopers. All S models. I don't get it. Why are all these slightly used Troopers showing up?? Downside, everyone of them was the same color scheme. No variety. Happy Trooping !!! ;->
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well I logged some serious tow time with my Trooper this past weekend. Put on about 400 miles towing a 2100lb car carrier trailer and about 500 miles with a 2900lb car on that trailer. The trooper did very very well. with the 2100lb trailer it was like it wasn't there at all, and this was going from NYC-> Pittsburg over the Mountains of PA. Averaged about 70mph on the way out with top speeds of 80-90+. No control problems etc. On the way back with my new XT6 on it, the only problems I encountered were @ speeds over 70mph on downgrade turns. It had a tendancy to sway a little. I think this was due to the fact that it wasn't 100% weighted properly (backed the car onto the trailer)

    I was using 2wd to tow it and had no problems. I flipped on TOD for a few miles of rain. Milage was 15mpg un-ladded (2100lbs) and 12mpg ladden (5000lbs) I have 275-70-16 Pirellis Scorpion AT tires, Rancho 9000 shocks set at 4/front 5/rear during laden rides 4/front 3/rear unladden, and OME rear springs. With the car on the trailer it was about 3/4" from the bump stops with very little sag.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I have a new how-to up on it is an install of a woofer system under the rear seats of the troopers.


  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    But I'm interested....

  • You came to Pittsburgh and didn't look me up. I guess New Yorkers are snobby ;o) hehe!!!

    I know I is not the time to joke about New Yorkers everyone.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Didn't know I was coming til the last minute. I was supposed to meet the guy in Harrisburg, but he couldn't make it there and I had already rented the trailer, so we just shot out and back on sunday.


  • Just had my Trooper in for the 30k service package. Dealer did all the usual stuff - rotated the wheels etc.

    After being done with it, noticed a clunking from the front left. Upon inspection the dust cap that covers the center of the alloy wheel only has one screw in it. It was loose - hence clunking.

    I thought I'd be smart and take one screw from the dust cap on the front right wheel that had all three - but no luck. The mechanics at the dealership stripped the threads in the two empty holes on the front-left. Even though I had the screw there was no thread for it to take on in the hole.

    Any of you guys know if this is easily repairable? The dealership is playing dumb with me - doesn't seem to matter that I'm a professional engineer (and I only played that as a last resort).

    They're saying they'll just tap the holes out and put in bigger screws. I'm not so happy to do that on alloys. (They want to charge me for this too)

    Your opinions would be appreciated ...

    So far my dealership has been terrible by the way - I'll name it and shame it soon. They have managed to break sensors on the engine during regular maintenance (lit up my dash like a Christmas tree) - that was on the 15k - and a whole host of other joyful things.

    If I wasn't so busy with work and family I'd do the maintenance myself ... am regretting not doing so at the moment.


    Old Pickup

    P.S. Next stop BBB maybe
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Haven't seen you post up here. Welcome to the group. Be sure to check out for good info. I'd ask to speak to the service manager. If that doesn't work, ask for the owner of the dealer. Contact Isuzu and open a file with them. As a last resort you might try a different dealer and see if they could help you out. Larger screws and tapping should be ok, but a new rim is really the only remedy for it to be done properly.


  • I have a 2000 S Trooper with 47,000 miles on it. Just recently it started the dreaded pre-ignition pinging. Tried the Chevron fuel jet cleaner with no luck. Went up to 89 octane gas and pinging ended. Went back to the dealer and ask them to reprogram the ECU as several others on the board have done. Happy to say that the Trooper runs better than ever. Almost tempted to have it done ever 30 to 40,000 miles. Using regular gas with no problem, and middle range power from 2000 to 2500 RPM's has never been smoother. Just for everyone's information also had them change fuel filter at a cost of $21.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Welcome aboard! It's great to have another techie in the forums and we're looking forward to hearing lots more from you!

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