Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

ryanbab

I just hope we catch this (fill in the blank)

Ryan

tidester

Glad to hear everyone's okay! Did you get the license number??

tidester, host

dispatcher

I haven't read all 30+ pages of post, so forgive me if this was brought up before. I've notice with the V6 motor (the passenger side rt) has been making quite a bit of what appears to be valve train related. This seems to happen around 1500 rpm and up, when engine is under a moderate to heavy load. Dealer has been giving me all kinds of different explanations as to the cause. Piston slap deemed OK by GM, Then there was the what kind of gas do you use, to the latest Service letter #00-06-01-023B Engine / Balance Shaft Rattle Noise. Which doesn't address the problem. Has anyone else had this problem and was it fixed, ie bad lifter, loose valvetrain ??

ryanbab

Yep but it came up unregistered. Our plan is we figure he was coming home from work so monday we are gonna go on the same road at that time and call the police (unless they already caught him we will find out monday)

ryanbab

here are some pics. Very minimal damage. Dent, bulb cover missing, bumper pushed in(brackets probably bent), and the liftgate may be slightly damaged (opening wise). For being hit 30-40mph and the guy not hitting the brakes id say it held up much better than expected. And they say SUVs arent safe???? Glad i was in one or i might have some injuries. Also good thing it was a small car.

abc246

I doubt the Escort was doing 30-40 mph from the fact it was able to drive away. If so, they are very good cars! I too have a Blazer and it has been hit from the rear by two cars, one was totaled. I still have the original bumper! I agree the rear bumper and rear structure are very strong. However, have you seen the IIHS offset test for the Blazer? It is a sad showing for American design and engineering. GM should have never built such a weak structure. The Blazer cabin and frame nearly bend in two! The driver’s space is nearly crushed. I am sure the Escort has a better showing on this test. So, like a rock? No, like GM poor engineering.

ryanbab

Just an update my mom gave some plate numbers to state farm and they ran them first one she gave them came up as a 2 door 99 ford!!!! It was the plate number they guy who followed him got execept he said a J and i know 100% it was an A.

WOOHOO also he does have insurance which is good

ryanbab

Damage estimate: $533

enigma41

I may have the same problem with my 2002 Blazer V6. Only 10,000mi.Seems to only happen when the engine reaches operating temperature. A definite chatter or clatter when under load and only under acceleration.More throttle makes it disappear temporarily.Was sure it was spark knock but stealer says no but offers no good explanation. Higher octane may help slightly but it comes back.Engine is supposed to run fine on 87.Very annoying and distracting. Do they all do this??
? bad knock sensor or other. Thanks for any help!

myvan1

Hello all, I own a 96 two doors 4x4 s10 blazer. I could not remove the transmission oil pan. I took all the bolts out. I can lower the front end of the pan with no problem. The problem is the rear end of the pan gets stuck by the transmission mounting crossmember. I don't know what to do. I really need your help . Thank you all!!!

enigma41

See the following http://www.thebestbuddies.com/pic/modinfo/balanceshaft/balancesha- ft.htm
Looks like we may be stuck with it.Doesn't appear that GM has any intention of a fix. Anyone else have any further info or solutions?

njdispatcher

Well hopefully this isn't a sign the topend is going to rattle itself apart, If indeed GM doesn't intend to fix it, I guess then I shall never buy a GM product. Good luck to those who get it fixed, and keep us posted with any success you get from GM regarding this matter.

abc246

The power window on the passenger's side will not go down anymore. I can see the motor is pulling current when I press the switch because the voltmeter moves slightly. Has anyone had problems with the power windows?

Also, I have a cold start knock from the engine when I accelerate from around 1300 to 3000 rpms. Once the engine warms up there is no knock at all. One cold morning when started the engine after it sat for a few days the knock was very loud, like a stuck lifter. It went away too when the engine warmed up. Any ideas?

slaliberte

What you need to do is move the crossmember that is behind the pan.to do this remove the two bolts on the passenger side and then losen the two on the driver side.You'll need to remove the front bolt on that side also. When you've completed that swing the crossmember towards the rear.That should help you remove the pan.You may need to put a gentle pry on the exhaust pipe to finish it up. Hope that helps, good luck

slaliberte

I can tell you thiss much, I had it happen twice and both times it was the torsion bar mounts. mention it to your mechanic, I'll bet you that will fix it.

easheer

I am having a tough time finding aftermarket running boards/nerf bars for an '02 Blazer 2dr 2WD...Every brand I have looked only make them for an '01 Blazer, or '02 4 Door.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, hasn't the Blazer pretty much remained the same from '01 to '02? Do you think I would be safe purchasing the '01's?

monkeyhead

I just bought this Blazer 3 months ago for 10k at 62k miles, recently It had rough idle, took to the dealer diagnose found bad O2 sensors, they replace all 3 of them, tune up with new platinum spark plugs, replace front [non-permissible content removed] hub total bill was 1100$$ (ouch), but within 2 days out the shop. rough idle came back plus it really slow acceleration at 30mph...anyone have same problem please post.....thanks....

rauzir

Has anyone had any problems with the front wheel hub and bearing asseblies?

monkeyhead

yes i did on my 98 blazer . replace it labor and part around $300. No more noise front end...

tommc

Nine times out of ten a rough idle is a dirty EGR valve. Expensive piece of equip. but can be usually cleaned and will work ok for a year or so between cleanings. Sounds like they took you to the cleaners, and didn't really fix the problem.

ace_2000

Sry to change the topic completely but i have a problem and i think i know what it is i just want to see if anyone has any input. everytime i put the blazer in to 4 wheel drive the steering wheel gets really hard to turn now i think its cuz the extra power to the front wheels but maybe i'm wrong

abc246

Do you have Auto-Trac? If you do it is another button next the 4HI. Use that mode and you should have no problem. If you do not have auto-trac you must be using 4wd on dry roads. It is only for ice, snow, sand, mud, dirt, ect. If you use 4wd on dry roads the system will bind-up. This is normal but puts severe stress on the 4wd driveline components and are causing increased wear on the whole SUV.

deadeye4

After 5-6 days in carport (Rained most every day)
would crank but not start. Used the wife's Hair dryer for about 5 min on wires-distributer then it started. Have you encountered such a prob.??

mtipton1

Yes,

    I had to replace the front wheel bearing on my '99 blazer a month ago. Price range anywhere from $152 to $450 ( just for part ), depending on where you buy it. Part is $452 from Chevrolet dealer. I think all parts on this vehicle must be made of 24k gold.
    Everything I have to replace is High dollar. I expect to pay inflated prices for the parts for my '56 Coupe De Ville, but even after you find out the problem, ( Hopefully you don't have to go to a shop ) the part price is ridiculous!

                         Manuel Tipton

abc246

How many miles did your balzer have when you replaced it?

monkeyhead

Tommc thanks ! a friend work for chevy dealer, he found the problem. Well there were gas in the O2 connector. Why there were gas in there?? so he follow to the PCM and from the PCM to the fuel meter, inside was flood with gas. He found the #2 injector was leaking, then replace it. Because gas was forced through the wire plastic, which foul the O2, then foul the spark plugs create missed fire. He charged me $250 part and labor. He told me this problem would have cost me thousand of dollars if i bring to the dealer...

ryanbab

anyone have a loud hum noise coming from the drivers side wheel area that gets louder as you go faster?

jrc346

Turned out to be a bad wheel bearing. It was a while ago though and in a different vehicle (1996 Ford Explorer). Noise started at about 10-15MPH then got progressively worse/louder as speed increased.

ryanbab

wheel bearing part number (00 blazer 4wd)

anyone know it?

wvlady

My 2001 Blazer decided on its own to engage the 4WD-Low Range. I did not touch any of the auto-buttons(although my hubby didn't believe me until it happened to him). Has anyone else had this problem, or is it unique to the 2001's. I have approx. 67,000 miles on the vehicle. Any suggestions?

pbr1

My 1996 Blazer just crapped out. It died on the highway with 80,000 miles and the dealer says that the main engine bearing failed and damaged the engine. He says serious damage has been done to the engine and the engine needs to be replaced. Although I have had minor problems in the past including repeated sludge forming in the coolant system I have not had any previous engine problems. Could this failure be related to the engine coolant problems? Any other suggestions as to the cause of the problem?

cpo

Your Blazer problem sounds sickeningly like my '96 Jimmy last fall. The engine cooling system was severely corroded. The rust colored coolant which GM prescribes contains an electrolyte which accelerates corrosion and attacks certain engine components, esp. the intake manifold gasket. I could never understand where I was loosing coolant for several months. No visible leaks and engine performance/fuel mileage normal. No rough starts, etc. Then it happened. I had a real rough start one morning and SES light. Engine and light cleared after driving 10 minutes, or so.. 5 weeks in the shop and $5000 later, I was back on the road. It turned out that the missing coolant was slowly finding it's way outside the water jacket, diluting oil viscosity which eventually degraded shaft bearings. I caught it early, so the damage was "minor" enough to salvage the engine, barely. My mech said he's still concerned about the valves on the engine as they're suspect at this point. "Just listen for tapping noises, he says. If that happens, sell it asap!" Sad, sad deal. This thing ate water pumps, the first of 3 going out at 74,000 miles, at which time the cooling system was flushed. Next pump went at 100,000~, then yet another system flush. Note that this silicate-free coolant allegedly lasts 100,000 miles before requiring refill (HA)... The shop (not a dealership) did all they could do for "minimal" wallet damage. In fact I was lucky my engine wasn't totalled, like yours. I've since put about 3000 miles on the SUV and so far so good. I bought a new Japanese compact for commuting and the Jimmy pretty much rests in the garage. I'd kept it tuned and changed oil @ 3k miles since I bought it, etc., but that wasn't enough. When I pay it off in a few months, I'll sell it.

grd

Does anyone if GM is going too replace the Blazer. And if so, when. Thanks, happyretired.

cuda8630

Can somebody give me information on how to change the oil lines that go from the filter to the block on a 95 Jimmy? Thanks, Keith

tweety_bmh

I have been having problems with my service engine light on my 2001 Chevrolet Blazer. It has run constantly since December, 2002. Several people said it was because I changed fuels one time and put high test gas in it. I took the battery cables off overnight and the light went off. After driving about 150 miles, it come on again and has been on ever since. Anyone else have this problem? It really worries me because I don't want it to leave me stranded with a small child.

spoom

chnging the fuel didn't do it, if that had been the cause it would have gone out by itself a long time ago. The most common cause cause is a loose or defective gas cap-this is even mentioned in the owner's manual. Aside from that it could be anything considering what pieces of poop some of these vehicles are. My SES light comes on more often than my wipers and is no more accurate than my gas guage (both of which need work) but unlike my ball joint didn't actually break off and damage anything : )
I stopped in today because of the wiper problem many of us have had for ages but GM would never recall. Well, today I got a letter (G02054)from GM to tell me that it may be covered beyond the warranty period. Due to a cracked solder joint on the controller circuit board the wipers sometimes won't work, as has been mentioned here before. The letter stressed that this is NOT a recall in bold underlined letters. Hope this helps some of the rest of you.

aldan93

GM will replace blazer in 2004-2005, they are getting rid of the 4.3L, and coming out with a straight 5, 215HP, also the S10 platform is history! The new lineup of vehicles is very very nice!!!!Colorado, and two more which I can't remember, but they do have sweet lines, Gm's best to date!

padoc

Wondering if the blazer replacement will be suv or just a truck. Any plans for colorado based suv? Also, will any be available with offroad package similar to ZR2? I hope so

ryanbab

is the trailblazer

The colorado will offer a Z71 offroad pkg.

spoom

A straight 5? Is it any wonder imports sales are up? First the gas guzzling straight 6 in the Trailblazer and now another engine? Too bad they can't keep the 4.3 V6 and spend their time fixing all the other issues they haven't handled like cooling lines, tranny fill tubes, tranny shaft breakage, the wipers (til now) power mirror switches power windows.....................

joey2brix

I'd assume this is the last year for the Blazer. The Equinox is comming out first quarter '94 with the same 4.3L and probably the same basic dimensions. Let's hope the 4.3L will be free of some the horror stories in these threads.

palmoyas

My first post! Hopefully someone can give me some insight into these problems on a '97 Blazer LT 4X4, both of which popped up magically at 100,000 miles.
 
1) I am getting a ticking sound that seems to be coming from the engine. It is only noticable at idle. Engine runs fine otherwise. I do know that I have a new, slight exhaust leak up front somewhere. Could this be the culprit? The exhaust muffles that much?

2) Next noise is one that sounds like a teapot that is just beginning to whistle. Did it when it was upper 60's here, quit when it dipped back down into the 40's, now it is back since the temps are in the 70's. It isn't effected by the A/C, acceleration, shifting, but today I noticed that the noise gets interrupted if I try to put the power windows up when they are already up. I have a feeling that it may be the fuel pump. Any other opinions? If so, what should I expect to pay for a repair?

Thanks to all for your advice!

spoom

An exhaust noise can often sound like a ticking noise if it is near another object. A leaking exhaust header near the block and facing it can sound so metallic that you'd swear it was a lifter. Clueless on the second one, and not sure how the windows could interrupt the noise if it was the fuel pump. Isn't the fuel pump back in the tank on these models? I'd guess something like the belt tensioner before a fuel pump. Good luck.

palmoyas

Pulled Blazer up onto ramps to get a peek underneath. Definitely the fuel pump, hose going into gas tank vibrates "in tune" with the bad noise coming from the tank.

Exhast leak is way up near the engine, so your theory could very well be right on. Thanks spoom. Going to wait until it gets worse before I worry about it. Everyone says I'm being too nitpicky anyways.

BALL JOINTS: What is the deal with getting these replaced on GM's dime? Just found out mine were bad. After calling the dealer, he said it was not a recall but a special program where GM "may" pay for replacement. Sounds shady. What do I need to do in order to make sure they pay?

Thanks everyone.

terryk3

I have the 2000 Gmc Jimmy i enjoy it so far alot however I can't get past the Driving Light turning off when the turn signals turn on. Kinda dumb so how about disconnect or bypassing driving lights to light bar on front and keep hav'em stay on while turning. Any suggestions...This problem must surely have a remedy by NOW!

spoom

Palmoyas-re the ball joints have your dealer look for Campaign Bulletins 01048 & 01049. That will explain the ball joint situation from GM's standpoint. If you take a few minutes to page through the posts on this thread you'll find the stories of myself & others. Way too much to retype for a two-finger guy like me. Still not sure how the window up action changes your fuel pump noise, unless the locked-rotor motor current spike drops the trucks voltage just enough to affect the electric pump's pitch. If your truck has a voltmeter you'll see the momentary drop.

tbaybuc

Has anyone had a problem with this? Dealership says it is a common problem with those equipped
with the auto4x4.This is due to the fact that the front drive shaft is always turning even though it is not engaged. At speeds of about 65mph and higher the vehicle shakes and you can hear it also. They have already replaced the tires at no charge and this has not solved the problem. Now they are giving me the story about the unbalanced drive shaft that is a "common" problem. Have looked and asked around and know one has heard of this.

palmoyas

tbaybuc, I had the same problem with the vibration (see earlier posts). It seemed to start right at 65 and get progressively worse the faster I drove. I remember seeing other posts here with the same problem, but no answer/solution was ever given.
Since having the lower ball joints replaced it has not been nearly as prominent for me, but does seem to come and go. As I get more drive-time on these ball joints I should know more. Also, I will be doing maintenance on the differentials, drivetrain, and brakes this weekend. Should get a good long view underneath to spot any problems.

tbaybuc

Thanks for the info.
It is going back in the shop an monday and I will mention the ball joints to them.I will let you know what happens
Thanks agian

jrl5

'01 blazer. replaced lower ball joints @ 31k miles and last week @ 51K. dealer said there is no recall on this. local shop replaced with Moog parts with grease fitting this time. think this will work?

am going to invetigate the campaign bulletins mentioned in post #678