Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

vlkohanskivlkohanski Member Posts: 17
edited February 2018 in Chevrolet
Is anyone familiar with brand quality on after-market suspension parts? (ball joints, springs, etc.) Moog? McQuay Norris?


  • wonpderwonpder Member Posts: 20
    1995 Blazer. Started having a dead battery about 30 days ago. Put in new battery, same thing. If I do not drive it for about 3 days the battery is completley dead. I have checked all lights and doors are closed and Etc. What could be causing a battery drain?
    [email protected]
  • vlkohanskivlkohanski Member Posts: 17
    Starting with the obvious... there's a short. However, finding it can be the old "needle in a haystack" exercise. You could have a shop look at it, but in my shoes I'd do that only as a last resort. They will rack up the hours ($$$$$) looking for it. I'd try finding it myself, first. Then, if that failed, I'd find someone who specifically deals in electronics. They'll find it way before an auto mechanic. I had a Honda that did this, but I never fixed it since the car rarely ever sat for three days.

    Has anything happened to the vehicle electrically? Is the radio stock? Does it have an alarm? Poke around with a flashlight. Sometimes the insulation on some wire or connection will erode causing enough of a short to keep a small amount of current flowing, but not enough to trip a fuse. Try starting at the battery and following the system through. Good luck. It's the things that go "snap" or "clunk" that are easy to fix. Annoying problems like this one can drive you nuts.
  • wonpderwonpder Member Posts: 20
    No, not a thing new. Could the wireing on the trailor hitch case a problem. I never use it , the wires just hang there. I will give it a try my self. Did you ever hear of a diode in the alternater going bad and causing a leak.
  • vlkohanskivlkohanski Member Posts: 17
    Yes, that happens, too. A short can develop that could draw the charge back into the alternator. If nothing else on the truck has changed and it just all of a sudden started draining, that could be a culprit. An auto parts store with a good modern tester might be able to confirm or eliminate that theory for you. Although, if it's still the original alternator, it's on borrowed time anyway.
  • aliceb777aliceb777 Member Posts: 6
    We just bought our new baby, and hoping none of these problems happen with the new vehicle. We bought it so we can pull it behind our RV, so it will not get a LOT of mileage.

    Any comments on the 2001? We bought a LT 4WD.
  • aliceb777aliceb777 Member Posts: 6
    Has anyone had this installed?

    Code#: ZM5
    Shield Package (4WD)
    Includes transfer case and front differential skid plates, fuel tank and steering linkage shields.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Are you talking about a skid plate pkg? It sounds like. Its just a metal cover under the truck that is bolted on to prtect the things you have listed. Its very nice and if you hit anything you wont tear up your drivetrain.

    How much are they charging? If its under $100 go for it. I have a silverado with it and its nice worked already a truck blew a tire and i was on the receiving end of it. Checked when i got home at there was a rubber mark on them but thats all.

    The silverados skid plate pkg is like $85.

  • aliceb777aliceb777 Member Posts: 6
    Yes, Ryan, that is what I was referring to. I requested it from the dealer, and they had it installed and didn't charge me.

    My question is, he thought it was only one plate they installed, but this refers to "plates."
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    i have 2 on my truck

    1 for the trans and one for the front diff

  • fordnightmarefordnightmare Member Posts: 40
    You can confirm the ALT leakage by taking a current measurement with a multimeter. Set the meter on its lowest scale and connect the leads between the neg line and the neg post on the battery. You have to remove the neg lead on the battery terminal in order to perform this (current is measured by breaking a circuit). In short, the meter wires will be between the neg battery and the neg lug. Take your initial reading (say .035A). Then, disconnect your hot lead from the ALT and see if the reading significantly drops (say .005A). If it does, the ALT is caputz. It is possible for a leakage of .030A to drain the battery in a few days. If the reading doesn't drop, start pulling fuses to isolate the circuit (radio, etc)

    Once had a cavalier that kept killing batteries. Turned out to be the dang trunk light. Jerks who fixed my wifes car (after an accident) didn't set the liquid switch in the correct position. That one was a blast to figure out.

    Good luck.
  • hgreenhgreen Member Posts: 1
    60 days ago I had to drive 200 miles in 2nd gear
    since my transmission would only slip in high gear.
    The dealer sold me a new tranmission $2200.00.
    Last week , no high gear, the dealer claims the
    transmission clutch was burnt out. In both cases
    the SES light was intermittently on and off, not
    flashing. My air conditioner has failed recently
    also. The SES light has been giving me problems for
    the last 6 months, ever since the dealer updated
    the program to fix the ABS braking problem.
  • russ3737russ3737 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 blazer LS 4x4 2dr, and occasionally, the headlights flash off briefly while driving. dealer says they cant find a problem. knew they would say that. its a quick flashing, like a blink. just worried that some day they might flash off for good while im driving at night. would appreciate some input. Thanks
  • raymicaraymica Member Posts: 1

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    First off relax. Not all blazers have problems some do but the majority do not. You hear alot of horror stories on here because people want them to be known. How often do you hear good things about for example a store? You usually only hear the bad things. So far my mom has had her 00 LT 4x4 for 15 months and has a little over 10K miles. She doesnt drive it much. Only problem so far is a front diff seal leak that was taken care of in no time. Hopefully your blazer will be great. Oh yea before her 2000 she had an 87 which was factory ordered and she sold it this past may. 13 years 130,000 some odd miles only problem was a hose recall (actually a hose broke and we broke down). I see the truck everyyday at school thing still is running and looks great

  • aliceb777aliceb777 Member Posts: 6
    I seem to remember something in my manual that mentions that some vehicles lose their headlights for a moment when they are using their turn signals.

    Ask to see a manual for the 2001 and look it up.
  • fordnightmarefordnightmare Member Posts: 40
    777, You have got to be kidding me. What manual where you reading?? The owners manual? I certainly hope not. Lights should not go out with the turn signals on..period. Not trying to be rude...

    Russ, I would suspect a bad ground or relay. Try "lightly" tapping your fuse box and light assy's.
  • mted23mted23 Member Posts: 16
    Most of the posts on this site are from people venting about their vehicles. I have a 99 Blazer LS with 37,000 miles on it in just under two years. The only problem was a squeeky door panel that was over tightened at the factory. The dealer fixed right away. By the way, we just had 12 inches of snow here in the Chicago area and the Blazer was excellent. I hope you have good luck with your Blazer.
  • aliceb777aliceb777 Member Posts: 6
    No, I am not kidding. In the 2001 owner's manual, page 2-55, it says:

    "The DRL (Daytime Running Lamps) system on some vehicles may turn off temporarily while the turn signals are activated."

    I wouldn't fib, I might get coal in my stocking next week! LOL
  • mted23mted23 Member Posts: 16
    This is true of GM vehicles with the parking/turn signals as daytime running lights. Example: Camaro, Venture, Corvette, not the Blazer. These lights momentarily go out when the turn signal is cancelled and then comes back on constantly to be the DRL. For those who have asked: my 99 Blazer is excellent in the snow. I have OE Goodyear Wranglers and Auto-trac. Deep snow seems to be no problem when 4hi is engaged. This has been an unusually snowy December in the Chicago area and I am sure glad I have my Blazer.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I hear ya about all this snow. I live in northwest indiana and we have been getting dumped on. How did your blazer come with goodyears? My moms came with crappy uniroyal. Hers is a 2000 LT with the premium ride? (best) suspension. Autotrac and 4 wheel high works great on her blazer and on my silverado.

  • boat10boat10 Member Posts: 59
    Anyone out there had problems with the oil cooler lines going to the radiator???? I had one to burst........WHAT A MESS!!!!!....... The general has ordered new parts. Mine is a 2000 4x4 LT and has 13000 miles on it. I live in Tennessee and would not be without my BLAZER..
    This is my 6th one..started buying in 1983 when they came out, renew every three years.absolutly love them, there are times the wife takes it away from me so she can do her hauling. Has anyone seen any specs on the new 2002.. many changes it looks like, new motor, new body style..
  • mted23mted23 Member Posts: 16
    There is a small handful of Blazers that come standard with Goodyears. I bought mine from dealer stock in Frankfort IL. I choose my Blazer from several of the same equipped Blazers because of the Goodyears. Not only are they good in snow but they are decent in some light off road use and very good in the rain.
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    News from GM... extended warranty, although for only CA residents...
  • ltnthackerltnthacker Member Posts: 1
    Just got a 1999 Chewy Blazer AS 4D 4WD and I am trying to get used to it. First in 2WD I notice that it rolls back slightly when I'm on a hill and I take my foot off the breaks to give it gas. Is this slippage in the trans? Also, In 4WD I feel alot of resistance in my turns like when I'm pulling into my driveway. Is this normal?
  • bbieraugelbbieraugel Member Posts: 4
    I recently had oil cooler lines replaced on a 1999 Blazer LT due to minor oil leakage. The service tech informed that this is not too uncommon and he has seen this numerous times.

    I have found that the Auto Trac system is wonderful in the Minneapolis snow and slush. My only complaint regarding my Blazer is that as the cold temperatures descended on Minnesota; my gas mileage seemed to fall off from 17.5 highway to around 15 mpg.

    I am very pleased so far.
  • fine_zerofine_zero Member Posts: 1
    Well I dont have a blazer yet.. but January the 1st or so My Granfather is supose to take me to go get one.I already talked to the guy and its a 1996 2dr white abs 4.3 vortec. Wondering a few things How much Gas mileage will I be looking at and where can I find really neat accessories like extra things such as inside lights and stuff to really make it neat and different but not have to spend a fortune. Thanks for your time.
  • ngliebengliebe Member Posts: 11
    Blazer is synonymous with trouble. My family has had
    two over the last five years. The worst vehicles we've ever
    owned. Like it or not, our new Four-Runner is hands down
    a better vehicle. About fifty times better. Unless you enjoy
    replacing two year old transmissions and having constant
    fluid leaks.
  • johng1219johng1219 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Blazer and the 4wd electronic engagement is out for the second time in 4 months. It will go into 4low but not 4hi. First time, the dealer said it was the electronic module. This time they say it is an electronic motor control AND the module. BUT, there are no spare parts anywhere in the U.S. and they have no idea when parts will be available. They told me this is a common problem this time of year but normally affects '95 and '96 models and not as many newer ones. So, this means this has been going on for five years and GM has not done anything about it. And, it is apparently very common as the parts supply is already exhausted. Anyone else had this problem? Statistics say you are out there somewhere!

    The other problem I had was the back glass would not lock. It would latch but not lock. It took three trips to the dealer before they determined it was another electronic module in the driver's door that was bad. Then there was the fix for the 4wd last Aug. Now, it has been in once to find out there are no parts and will go again to finally (hopefully) get it fixed again. So, once I go one more time to get the 4wd fixed, it will make a total of six trips to the dealer for warranty service in one year.

    John near Indianapolis
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    The 95 and 96 pushbutton 4x4 system is different than a 2000's 4x4 system. The 2000's system was released in 1999 its called autotrac. The pre 1999 version is instatrac. THe S-10's still use the old system but the blazers, tahoes, and silverados have switched over to auottrac. Its a great system the auto button is really good in rainy weather.

    Did they ever say anything about a solenoid? Ive heard of those going bad

  • opicdopicd Member Posts: 1
    I'll add my 2 cents here ... my 4wd hasn't been reliable for 2 years. Two transfer case repairs (one complete overhaul), two automatic trans rebuilds, numerous "minor" problems like wipers stop in downpour then go on when not turned on.

    Bought a new 97 blazer in 11/97 thought it was deal at $19k but have put $4k in repairs. Today the dealer said the fluid leak is caused by bad water pump and needs $600 in repairs.

    Anyone want to top this story?

    PS Chevy customer support said all this stuff happens all the time and ....don't expect any assistance from them.
  • smsmith2smsmith2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 Blazer 4x4 with the 4.3L vortec engine, bought used in 1997 with 77k miles. I have been pretty happy with it and now have 113k on it, but there have been some repairs needed. Most recently while visiting Northern Virginia it began to run rough and seemed like it was going to stall, then the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Facing a 7 hour drive home, I took it to a local shop to get checked out.
    After a $70 diagnostic, they told me I needed a new EGR valve. Ok, but they charged me $362 for the part alone! The total repair came to over $600. Does this seem right? I went to an Advance Auto here at home (Rochester, NY) and was qutoed a price of $43 for a new EGR valve, and after looking at a manual, it seems a repair I could have done myself. I am thinking I was taken advantage of because I was from out of town and needed the repair to drive home.
    Also, I was recently told I need oil cooler lines repaired: $200 to repair the seals; $300 if they need to replace the lines. This seems high to me as well. Anybody have info on these repair prices?
  • vlkohanskivlkohanski Member Posts: 17
    Your first question depends on which type of EGR you have. I'm not familiar with that one first hand, but there are two types of valves used on some of the Blazer in the early 90's. One is the regular cheaper one and the other is much more expensive (retail is around what you were quoted). Supposedly it's a much better valve whereas the other has more of a tendency to crap out more frequently. So, don't beat up on yourself too much unless you've verified that the parts store quoted you the right one. If they charged you $300 for the regular one, yes, you got taken, and on the labor, too. The more expensive one is also more labor-intensive to change out. As for the cooler lines (and should usually be the case with expensive repairs), you should get a second opinion. Some places will do a good repair for less and still get the basic repair accomplished without trying to "restore" an old truck.
  • sasquatch_2000sasquatch_2000 Member Posts: 800
    Looking at a Pewter 98 LS 4 Door with 40,000 miles on it. Dealer price $18,000. What is a good price to hit him with? What problems should I look for? Do I gain anything appreciable other than cosmetics by going to a '99? This one has the 5 spoke wheels with worn 235/70R15 tires. What are the biggest tires I can put on these? Can I get 255/75R15? How about 30X9.50 or 31X10.50 tires? Do I need a lift kit to mount these? Are lift kits available? I plan on doing some exploring this winter and summer, and want some good clearance. Also, anyone have experience with aftermarket header/exhaust/chip for power/mileage improvements? Thanks in advance.
  • tlillertliller Member Posts: 4
  • tlillertliller Member Posts: 4
    Just recently bought a 2000 Blazer LS "program" car with 14,000 miles. The dealer had 5 and this was the best. I like the vehicle so far, but I don't like the "feel" of the rear suspension. It has the standard suspension and it feels like the rear end would like to skip a bit on rough surfaces, although I don't think it really has. I don't really do any off road driving other than some dirt roads when I go fishing. Any advice on a good replacement shock that would tighten up the feel on the rear end? The front seems pretty solid. Any problem, given the mileage, on replacing the rear shocks without doing anything to the front suspension?
  • tlillertliller Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought a 2000 LS (same color as yours) with 14,050 miles for $20,900. Vehicle is like new (as it should be). If you go to large Chevy Dealers they will likely have some 2000 "program" vehicles (come out of rental or loaner fleet) for really good prices compared to new, 200l vehicles. Usually discounted $8 - $10,000 from original sticker price. I've seen some 2000 program Blazers as low as $17,900.
  • monza68monza68 Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Blazer has just recently started giving me problems with the fad engaging. after 4 trips to the dealer service department they finally got it repaired. My blazer only has 18,000 miles on it and recently have had more problems. air conditioning went out, alternator just went out, have replaced front brake pads 3 times.
    HOWEVER!, I contacted Chevrolet customer service
    and because of the low miles on this vehicle, they have agreed to take care of these problems for me.
  • jlaszlojlaszlo Member Posts: 60
    Just bought a 2001 2dr Blazer. So far, so good. The incentives on them right now are too good to pass up.
  • tonychrystonychrys Member Posts: 1,310
    Make sure you take all that money you saved and invest it for out-of-warranty repairs.

    Also, the reason why they are so cheap is because the whole product line is being wiped out and redesigned. The resale on models prior to 2002 will go down dramatically.

    I too almost bit at all the incentives, I'm not that desparate.
  • flyinbyflyinby Member Posts: 3
    Just wondering if anyone has had this problem before... On my '98 Blazer, when the turn signals shut off, the relay behind the glove box door still clicks. When I hit the brake, it stops clicking then will start up when I let off. Note: the turn signal lamps flash as they are suppose to (only "on" when the lever is in the up or down position), but in the neutral location, the stupid relay keeps intermittently clicking after they are turned off. I'm thinking it is in the switch in the steering column ($170 + labor ouch), thanks for any help. Any help would be greatly appreciated, feel free to e-mail me directly [email protected]
  • kmosemankmoseman Member Posts: 1
    I have recently purchased a 2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2. For some reason on cold mornings,35 degrees or below it won't start. All the lights on the dash come on the battery is good but when you turn the key to the start position nothing happens. Now later on when it warms up or I plug the block heater in for about 15 min it starts right up. Has anybody had this problem or know hats wrong?
  • dave_mddave_md Member Posts: 1
    A follow-up to the earlier message about headlights flashing...

    I also have a 2000 Blazer LS (4DR 4WD), and my headlights and dashboard lights often dim for half a second, like the lights in your house might dim briefly when a large appliance turns on and puts a load on the electrical system. This happens at highway speeds, when all I have turned on is the heat and the radio (front/rear wipers off, back window defroster off).

    The dealer (which acted like they had never encountered this before) said it took them awhile to figure it out, but their conclusion was that the "body control module", which is computerized, was responding too slowly to new loads on the electrical system, and the lights were dimming for the half second the module was taking to react. They said they then called GM, who said that they are aware of the problem and plan to fix it in a future software update, but they can't estimate when the update might be available.
  • bbieraugelbbieraugel Member Posts: 4
    I'm beginning to believe what previous posts say regarding the Blazer nickel and diming you to death. I took my 99 into the dealer for what I thought would be a simple repair of a bad gas gauge; the fuel level was not registering. After a whole day in the shop I was informed that the dealer needed to pull the dash board and send in the fuel gauge for repair. I was told that it would take 3-4 days and that I could have a free loner vehicle during this time if needed.
    I also had the Blazer into the same shop just 3 weeks prior for oil cooler line replacement, 2 months prior with a bad pinion seal and 2 months prior for a bad thermostat.

    Makes me wonder.
  • oldcoyoteoldcoyote Member Posts: 8
    I am considering a 1998 or 1999 Blazer still under warranty. Any thoughts on waiting until the 2002 is introduced this spring which may lower prices significantly?

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    My old 92 S-10 had a gas gauge that wouldnt work till the gas level was abotu 1/4 full. Replaced the sensor in the gas tank pain in the butt. Well that didnt work. Took it in and they replaced it with a new instrument cluster and it has worked fine since.

  • pwash19pwash19 Member Posts: 14
    I was wondering if there are others out there who have noticed an engine ping with their 98 Blazer.
    At 34,000 miles, I have tried almost everything. This all started at around 10,000 miles after moving from Florida to Maryland.
    Two different dealers and several visits later I have been given several explanations for the problem, far to many to list but of course, none were the fault of GM.
    I know the owners manual calls for 87 octane and I am using premium gas with no luck.
    One of my visits for service the service manager took me for a ride with the hand held computer hooked up under the dash and prove to me that all was functioning correctly, according to him. I bought his story, went home but still have the ping.
    Chevrolet's 1-800 customer service has been no help. You can never speak with the same person.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Vehicles for GM wont start being produced till june/july. You will see them on dealers lots july/august.

  • juice12ufojuice12ufo Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2000 Blazer ZR2. I have accumulated 12000 miles on it and haven't experienced any major problems, especially it not starting in cold weather. My truck consistently started up strong in below zero temps. Sounds to me you have an intermitent connection with your starter. Due to the varience in temperature it could be affecting a number of things in the starter circuit. Get the truck in and have that particular circuit checked and I bet there will be something amiss in there. I doubt that it has anything to do with the engine itself though.
  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    Go with any of the following: bilsteins, KYB, tokinos, etc. All are quality gas shocks. If you want to spend less then try the Monroe Reflex line.
  • keshiafkeshiaf Member Posts: 3
    I have a '96 Blazer LS currently at 81k. The Blazer is now on its fourth battery, the alternator was replaced at 50k, a part fell off of the engine at 40k that was $400 not covered under the warranty, the air compressor went out at 45k. I complained about the brakes from day one and they continued to tell me that nothing was wrong with the brakes. The brakes have always been extremely low. While riding and having to come to quick stop, I hit the brakes they went all the way to the floor made a grinding noise and the foot pedal began to shake. This also happens if you are on a bumpy surface with your foot on the brake. Finally a recall....Well what ever they did lasted about a day, back to the exact same problem. Also I have had the front end fixed (not under warranty of course) and a the rear end differential leak. The valves constantly rattle and they say nothing is wrong. Oh let me not forget the recall on the wiper motor. I had a lot of trust in Chevrolet now I'm thinking differently or is that I just got the Lemon of The Lot. Anyone else experienced these problems. Last year I spent about $900 in repairs. Now I'm ready to trade..
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