Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • nbsmilarnbsmilar Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for all the quick responses and comments on the popping noise, hopefully that will help the mechanics trouble-shoot.
    Now let me try and air another problem that deals with my wonderful transmission in my '97 blazer (56k miles).
    Symptoms: After 30 minutes of highway driving my transmission will slam from 1st gear to second gear. If I turn the car off for 5 seconds and then restart, it will go back to shifting smoothly. Has anyone had a similar experience?
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    Well, can't help you with the popping sound, but I know the fix for the transmission slam. See Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy topic in this SUV forum, responses 60, 72, and 73. I have explained it, including a price breakdown, in there.
  • bhillebhille Member Posts: 3
    I've had intermittent problems with my wipers on my new 2001 Jimmy. After using the wipers when I turn the truck on the wiper will go half way up the window and stop. You can turn on the wipers and the function normally. Turn the wipers off again and they return half way up the window. If you turn the truck off then restart it, the wipers will return to normal. I thought it was strange but not a big deal. Then while using them the other day, they were going up and down then started only going up half way and back down. Then as strangely as it started that, it went away and started working again. Anyone else experience this? Any have a fix? My dealer just looks at me like I'm stupid.


  • tkostkos Member Posts: 4
    Well nbsmilar we appear to have the same issues. I too experienced the popping sound end of last year on my 1999 Blazer. (which did get solved by getting the front end greased) About 3months ago I started to experience the transmission slam but only when I travel longer distances (40-50 miles one way) which I still have not gotten resolved. Let me tell you what you are in for next! About 5weeks ago I started losing the charge on my battery from out of the blue. I would get in the vehicle and turn it over to experience a clicking sound. Now I have found a way to get the vehicle to start by letting it click several times, turn the key off, and then back on and it will turn over. Well two weeks ago when going through my little ritual my back hatch popped open. (Which as I think back, when it didn't start, I had opened my hatch.) So I got out closed it and went through the ritual again, it started. I made it a habit to open the hatch with the vehicle running or made sure I started it right away after closing it and let it run to charge up the battery. Last night I open the hatch and closed it, got side tracked and never went back to start it. Yep you guessed it, I'm stuck. Battery is charging as we speak!

    I am so disgusted! First, it's a lease and I only have 4 months left. Second, the problems started at 36,200 miles. Lastly, I had a 1997 Blazer which I loved and had no problems with at all. This one has been nothing but trouble from the beginning...nothing major just all minor issues but still.

    Anyway, just thought I'd let you take a peak into your possible future! Good Luck!
  • nbsmilarnbsmilar Member Posts: 3
    - I'll try the greasing route and see if that alleviates the problem with the front end.
    - From previous posts it looks unamious that the transmission slam after highway driving is due to a faulty valve body. Looks like this problem can be traced to 1997 to 1999 vehicles. My symptoms first occurred at 46k miles, now I've got 56K miles and will have the dealership fix next month at my expense.
    - Sorry to hear about your battery fiasco, hope it's not contagious.
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    I just had the line replaced from the remote oil filter adapter (the line from the adapter to cooler was replaced few months ago) to the engine, under a GM good faith repair (truck has 45k miles and no warranty left). I called the auto BBB to complain and GM contacted me. I was too late for the auto BBB (you have to be in manufacture warranty when you submit complaint), but GM offered to fix it anyway. I was shocked.

    I think we all should complain to NHTSA,

    This is a safety problem. If the hose breaks and engine locks up in a intersection someone could get killed. It is also a fire hazzard. Not to mention what all this leaking oil does to earth! This may force a recall.

  • goochipatgoochipat Member Posts: 2
    recently i washed my 98 chevy blazer 4-door 2wd i even washed the underbody with light water. but is this bad to do or what???? and when the chevy blazer says (2wd) does it run on to 2 wheels, or is it a (rwd) meaning it runs on one wheel. any answers will be appreciated!!
  • amadeus131amadeus131 Member Posts: 43
    Well, it's been about two years since I've last posted, when I bought my '99 2-door 4WD Blazer. I loved it unconditionally until about 3 weeks ago. But I just read all 200+ posts in this thread and feel like a hypochondriac: "I've got that ... I've got that ... I've got that...."

    At about 36300 miles I noticed that the truck would not shift into either permanent 4WD or the Autotrac system. I got the earliest possible appointment, by which time I had 36900 miles. You guessed it, the battery had failed, and spectacularly. One of the terminals had corroded and acid had leaked all over several key 4WD system components (I can get the work order and list them if anyone's interested). I had suspected nothing because the truck otherwise drove fine. $730 later, I wrote a fiery letter to GM, but am expecting nothing. My repairman said it was a "maintenance issue", meaning presumably that it's my fault. I'd be willing to concede this, but how often does a battery fail like this within 2.5 years of purchase when the vehicle has otherwise been well maintained?

    The door hinge problems sound familiar too; the swinging spare tire carrier is the same. Besides some other minor things (my gas gauge is also messed up, but happily the other way around -- when full it registers 7/8), not much else to complain about ... yet.

    I was going to bring it back to the dealer in a few days as the 4WD system still wasn't working perfectly, though today it suddenly worked fine. Now at least after reading this thread, I have some ideas for some other things for them to check, such as the brakes.

    I was hoping to keep this truck for at least 5 years, but now it seems that if I get another year out of it (until next summer), I'll be doing well. I am investigating smaller SUVs such as the Tracker and CR-V, as I have no children and would like better gas mileage.

    It is good to be back again, though I wish it could be with more glowing reports of this vehicle.
  • tkostkos Member Posts: 4
    Well first off, I thought my battery issues were resolved on Friday. I removed old and replaced with a new one. Got in, said a little prayer and cranked her over. What do you know, it started! Drove like a champ running around town on Saturday. Sunday morning I got in, started it, backed out of the driveway to have it stall! It stalled 7 times getting back into the garage (my driveway is NOT very long!) So we are back to square one. Interestingly enough, I opened the back hatch on Saturday to unload supplies. There has got to be a tie in but we can't find it! We checked the fuses and such tied to it and found nothing. It's frustrating!

    I had forgotten to mention my 4WD not engaging in my previous message. I read Amadeus131 and it mention corrosion getting on to 4WD parts. I did have some corrosion, I'll have to check that out.

    Anyway, if anyone has had similar problems with stalling or dead battery and has traced to the back hatch that might be able to give me a heads up where I need to look for the problem, let me know. I want to get her fixed up enough to turn her in. Just got a letter from GM allowing me early release from my lease with no penalty. The catch, buy another GM product. Judging by the track here, it certainly won't be a Blazer.
  • blaze96blaze96 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a 96 blazer LT 4wd w/36,000 about two years ago it no has 62,000 and I haven't had any problems whatsoever. After reading these posts I've come to the conclusion that its just a matter of time before something goes wrong. I'd like to know if anyone has had the fluid replaced in the transaxle and or differential as routine maintenance. I am considering having this service done but before i shell out the bucks I'd like to know if its worth it.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    it wont harm your truck.

    If you tow id definitly get it done

    I am at 16K on my silverado and i am probably going to get mine (rear diff) changed at 20K just to be on the safe side. A little preventative maintenance

  • mrchristophermrchristopher Member Posts: 5
    I've owned my '99 since it was new.
    I commute 78 miles daily, round trip.
    The Blazer has experienced not one problem..not one hiccup.
    It's a nice piece for the money. Not too big, not too small; relatively nimble and light on it's feet; reasonable gas mileage considering its perfomance and especially when comparing it to its peers; styling (to me) is handsome and restrained. I'd buy another.
    Note to the fellow experiencing "spectacular" problems as a result of a corroded battery your hood every now and again, mate. Meticulous maintenance does not mean driving one's vehicle through Jiffy Lube every few months. Really.
  • olitrippolitripp Member Posts: 1
    hello out there. I am looking at buying a chevy blazer LS and am deciding on a 96 or 97. is there any big difference between the two? Was there any major improvements from 96 to 97 I should be aware of? Should I choose one over the other or go with which one is all around nicer?
  • grkeiergrkeier Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with the wipers in my 98 Jimmy SLE. The problem didn't get bad until about 40,000 miles (now 61,000). The mist and slowest delay positions will often go for 4-7 cycles before stopping, even in the off position. I had the dealer look at it and they said I needed a wiper module. I asked if they were sure and they said 90%. Can't remember if it was $100 or $150 to replace. I didn't have it done yet.

    The wipers had _something_ wrong with them when I bought it new. If I turned on the wipers to the slowest delay, the length of delay would be about 4 seconds. If I turned it past and came back, it would work correctly (12-15 seconds). No big deal, but I should have had it fixed under warranty. I just didn't think it would turn into a real problem.
  • blaze96blaze96 Member Posts: 2
    you guys should ckeck with chevy customer service for recalls. I have a 96 blazer 4x4 and I got the wiper module replaced for free on a recall. This was done about a year ago and I have never had any problems. I'll try to get the recall number and get back to you.
    Hey! it's worth a try.
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    I have a '97 Bravada, and one of the major differences (with a '96) is GM equipped the '97 with 4-wheel disc brakes, instead of disc/drum. In fact, if memory serves, '96 and older 4wds S-trucks had a recall on the anti-lock brakes for not working properly in 4wd. '97s were not effected.

    Just beware of the following trouble spots: alternator, dexcool sludge (coolant), leaky oil cooler lines, rusty trans dipstick, faulty trans valve body (slamming), worn driver's door hinges, noisy belt tensioner, premature wear on ball joints, idler and pitman arm, erratic wipers, front differential leak, shifter button rattle, premature wear of brake rotor (frt./rr.), and some reports of leaning suspensions and inability to maintain alignment.

    And yes, I maintain my vehicles... which is why I do not expect a major driveline failure, unless there's yet another GM design defect I haven't uncovered.

    My advice: buy the extended warranty. A good investment on '95-01 S-trucks.

    Check this link for a GM warranty:

    Don't buy a third party warranty... too much grief, in my opinion.

  • amadeus131amadeus131 Member Posts: 43
    >Note to the fellow experiencing "spectacular"
    >problems as a result of a corroded battery
    > your hood every now and
    >again, mate. Meticulous maintenance does not mean
    >driving one's vehicle through Jiffy Lube every few
    >months. Really.

    I understand what you're saying, and you're right about the opening the hood part -- but isn't this just a *bit* extreme for a 2.5 year old car?

    I am not saying that it isn't my responsibility, because it is. I'm only saying that this sort of "spectacular failure" seems to me like it ought to be unusual. Based on what I'm reading, it's looking more and more like that isn't quite true.

    Please don't misunderstand my attitude, because in many ways I think I'm actually fortunate. Can you imagine what might have happened if it had been some key components of the steering system that had been destroyed slowly? Or the braking system?

    I just had two new tires put on yesterday, the door hinges lubed, and the brakes and the 4WD system gone over. All is well now. In spite of all this, I do like how the vehicle drives, and its styling and size as well. My only general complaints about the vehicle are the mileage (not a legitimate complaint), the turning radius (ditto; if you want a small turning radius and good gas mileage, get a Cavalier), and the visibility (which seems more legitimate). I sat in a Tracker yesterday, and while it seems well made, I am not sure I could live with something that small after all. In spite of its problems, I can't think what I'd rather be driving. Perhaps if I am more careful with the maintenance, I can get quite a bit more use out of this truck.
  • rob1rob1 Member Posts: 4
    My 97 Jimmy has a intermittent short in the electric window/power seat circuit. It will open the circuit breaker and/or get hot enough to make the interior smell like burning insulation. The dealer replaced the power lock control module but that didn't help. It's at the dealer again but I don't have a worm fuzzy in my heart that they will find the problem. Any help anyone???
  • bobc17bobc17 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem as robbm mess #195
  • klmille1klmille1 Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem similar to this in my 96 Jimmy. Got lucky and found that the passenger seat
    had rubbed through the hot wire that runs through it to some accessory. Poor routing of wire
    through the seat was at fault.
  • ahlinahlin Member Posts: 30
    99 blazer 4wd LT Am considering purchasing the GM extended warranty major guard.Cost to me would be 1450.00 for 5 year 75000 miles. Am wondering if this would be a good value and pay off in the long run. Price quoted above same on internet sites and local dealer. Any comments? This would have a 0 deductible.
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    My 6 yr./60K extended warranty has paid off, and then some. I bought it for my '97 Olds Bravada w/21K miles for $1,100. The GM dealer has since done $2,100 of warranty work. For the '95-'01 S-trucks, I'd recommend a GM (not third party) extended warranty.
  • rob1rob1 Member Posts: 4
    The service writer deduced the problem to be in the passenger seat lumbar circuit. The technician pealed back about 6 inches of wire wrap and found the same problem,i.e. the hot lead was shorting to the seat intermittently. I have to say they treated me fairly in the end considering the time spent trying to find the problem. The dealer is the GMC dealer in Waukesha Wisconsin if someone gets stuck here. Thanks for the info.
  • jjocjjocjjocjjoc Member Posts: 24
    Thought I'd join the discussion and share some pro's/cons/tips I experienced with my Blazer.
    I bought this vehichle used with 38k miles.
    Overall, I've been satisfied since the SUV has been pretty reliable, never left me stranded, and successfully got me 'up the hill' from Sacramento to Lake Tahoe about, oh, 30 times already. But yeah, there has been some issues:
    42k miles - 4WD computed encoder motor ($800);
    48k - AC Compressor ($700); 55k - Brake Booster Cable; just recently I had to replace BTy cable as it was leaking.

    Also, someone mentioned 'missippi mud' coolant problem. In case your not aware, my dealership noted that there is some special technical service bulletin type 'courtesy offer' where if the symptons exist, they will do a complete clean, flush, and or overall of your radiator if need be (not sure of all the specifics but it's supposed to take over 4 hours. Mine was done for free.
    Lastly, my temp. gauge always seemed to get over the mid point line on hot days, with ac on, while stuck in traffic. Two dealers looked at this and noted there was no problem. The last dealer indicated that the normal tempature for the blazer is 220 degrees (midpoint on the gauge is 210) and that gauge was actually reading about 15 degrees hotter that actual reading done by the shop. I feel a little better (I guess). Anyway, each time it was in, the shops said the coolant reservior was low and added some, so I guess I'll watch it closer from now on.
    My vehicle now has 66k. I think the next year or 30k will be the gauge of how good a truck this is in terms 'unexpected' repairs popping up. I have always liked the LT looks along with the vortec 4.3 engine peformance (Explorer engine of the same year seemed to have no power comparitively speaking).
    For the transmission dipstick rust, are the dealers advocating any type of fix?
  • newblazer01newblazer01 Member Posts: 1
    I recently picked up my new Blazer (early June)and love driving it, except for one very distracting flaw. I have a distortion in the rear tailgate glass between two of the rear defrost heater lines. It has the appearance of water running along the lines. I have taken it to the dealership to have it looked at and was told it is by DESIGN!! I am curious if anyone else has experienced this issue? Is this just a characteristic of the curved glass? Just curious if I'm getting the run around by the dealership. Thanks!
  • kritterkritter Member Posts: 3
    Well-my 96 jimmy is finally getting fixed. Had to wait until I won some money in the lottery to pay for it. The issue with the Missippi mud will be taken care of, but I am sure it will return. I called GMC, they told me they would assist with the cost? Why should I have to pay for their mistake. Did anyone out there have a problem with the air conditioning? I would love to hear from you. I also have had the clunking in the front end. I guess this truck is just predictable. I saw a 99 Durango on the GMC lot, thinking about a trade. I only have 47000 miles on my truck, what's going to happen at 60000?
  • dcymbordcymbor Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 S-10 with about 54,000 that has an intermittent front end clunk. Gave up on trying to find cause/fix it. AC stopped cooling about 3 months ago. Took it to a local shop (not the dealer) for $70.00 they recharged it but said they could not find any leaks. So far it's still working. Gas gauge went out while under warranty. Coil blew on the 91 freeway while under warranty. I don't think I'll buy another GM product (and I get an employee discount!!)...
  • dufus2506dufus2506 Member Posts: 2
    Deja vu all over again... 97 GMC Jimmy 2Dr

    I've had many of the problems listed here. (Bad fuel gauge, sludge for coolant, failed transmission...)

    I've also had a problem that I managed to figure out. When I traveled over bumps, or was passed on the highway by large trucks, my dome lamps would flicker.

    Turns out my tailgate window wasn't latched completely. It was just the window bouncing up off the dome light switch.

    Hope that helps.

  • pokey10pokey10 Member Posts: 14
    To all who are considering buying a 95-01 Blazer, Bravada, Jimmy or currently own one........

    I've owned my 97 Blazer LS 2dr 4wd 6 months and drove it 6000 miles. Since then I have spent $1200 in repairs which include:

    Hood latch, rusted tranny "dip stick", fuel gage sending unit, blower motor, torsion bar adjustment, front axle seal, battery.

    Two weeks ago my mechanic informed me I "thru a rod" in my wonderful vortex V6 motor and it needed to be replaced at a cost of $2,000. My Blazer only has 57,000 miles on it.

    Future repairs would have included: front end rebuild, tranny valve body rebuild, remote oil filter lines leaking, drivers side power window and wipers work only when they want to, truck starts hard (problem with fuel pump?)

    Here is the response I received from Chevrolet:

    Thank you for your recent email. We apologize for your dissatisfaction. Chevrolet understands
    that of all the factors involved in customer satisfaction, quality is of primary concern. We
    appreciate your advising us of your feelings. The comments you have made will help us provide the
    quality you expect from Chevrolet. If you would like to discuss your comments further, please
    contact the Customer Assistance Center at 1-800-222-1020.

    Please take my advice Don't buy or sell your truck I wish I did.....I pick up my 2001 Jeep Wrangler later today.

    So long GM.
  • dickhwilsondickhwilson Member Posts: 2
    Hey, since you are buying used, purchase a 1998 or later. The earlier years of the same body style had defective computer programs in many vehicles. The 1998 made significant changes all around. Like some people mentioned that 4 wheel disc brakes were added. Re-engineered suspension. Slightly wider stance. Larger brake rotor surfaces. Might cost a bit more on the used car lot, but worth it. If you can afford it get a 1999. More improved over 1998. Well, good luck!

  • sideshowsideshow Member Posts: 2
    Some of my problems on a 96 LS with 110,000:
    Rusty dipstick tube
    driver window motor went bad
    service engine soon light stays on
    coolant turned to sludge
    radiator got rusty somehow, had to replace it
    wiper computer went bad
    AC doesnt work
    Besides that, nothing major
    It is nickle and diming me I am getting rid of it.
  • afranquiafranqui Member Posts: 4
    I'm considering buying a '98 currently in excellent condition w/44K miles. Had the engine checked and going to test drive this week. Interested in hearing some feedback.
  • nchtghnchtgh Member Posts: 1
    I am currently looking at purchasing a 96 Jimmy with 60K. Has anyone had any good luck? By the looks of things I shouldn't buy it. Any suggestions?
  • sjzmansjzman Member Posts: 1
    i have a chevy blazer.2001 4wd dr.4dr.automatic.10,000miles.oil change at 3, stalls on me in middle of manhattan.i turn the key,everything works(lights,radio.heat,ac,etc.just car wont i get says car low on oil and that the car has an oil sensor that kills the took 3 dasy to figure that now i have oil full and car runs fine for 2 weeks.drove the car in the morning and parked it.tried to drive later and would not start.i checked oil.oil was full.cursed and and went inside and went to bed.woke up tried the car.3 turns still nothing.but then it question is.does anyone or did anyone have this you know what it thinking the car sat at he dealer and yes it was low on oil but started a few days for them and they said oh that the oil was the problem.and now am i stuck with a car that im rolling the dice every time i drive it.please help.
  • gjohnxxgjohnxx Member Posts: 1
    I changed the tires on my olds bravada (1997) recently from its original 235/70/r15 to goodyear wrangler rf-A tires 235/75/r15. The tires plus store guy said the 75 aspect ratino owuld be ok in place of the 70 tire. Is this right? I have noticed that everything ralltes in the car when it goes over bumps (much more than it used to..)

    Thanks for the help
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    Mark. The 75 series might be a little taller than the 70 series. Should work fine but the speedometer will read a couple mph slow. Check air pressure. Tire shops often inflate to over 35 psi on new tires for some reason. Try 32 front, 28 rear for better ride quality.
  • pfrazierpfrazier Member Posts: 1
    It seems we are all having the same problems. I had my 96 in the shop yesterday for the coolant sludge - second time too - they replaced the heater core and overflow container at their expense. I've had the other problems too - windshield wipers stopped working, constant brake problems, coolant problems, no freon in air conditioner, window motor not working, check engine light on many times, bad injectors, etc. How discouraging! We should really ban together and do something about it.
  • pilotgregpilotgreg Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a '99 Blazer LS 4-Door with 25,000 miles on it. Only item of concern (at this point) is the drivers door hinge pins which are very rusty and thus have worn the bronze hinge bushings allowing the door to drop slightly when opened. The dealer will take care of it (warranty) by replacing the hinge pins and bushings this week. Anyone else have this done? Any pitfalls?
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    Just bought a new Blazer. Had 8 S10s now, three Blazers. Those door hinge pins and bushings are probably the most common repair I've done. Not a major job and the GM replacements are a little better than the aftermarket ones. Just one of those things.
    BTW. Had excellent service from all of ours except a 97 that I bought new. Worst vehicle I'd ever owned. Usually run them unill they die of old age, sold this piece of crap at 50K miles, 5000 dollars under retail. Had to get rid of it.
    Good luck with yours, might run forever.
  • pilotgregpilotgreg Member Posts: 2
    Anybody come up with a bypass trick for the automatic headlight system (not the DRL's) on the 1999 Blazers? Driving on the airport ramp at night with lights I can't control is a problem. I tried jumpering out the photoeye on top of the dash, this didn't work. Edmunds archives had discussions but no firm results (until year 2000 when you could use the dome light button).
  • badgerpaulbadgerpaul Member Posts: 219
    One thing you might try is pressing down on your parking brake to the first detent. This overrides the DRLs and the autohead lights, you just have to look at the light on the dash saying that the parking brake is on.
  • pmcmullenpmcmullen Member Posts: 4
    Add my 1998 Blazer to the list.

    After watching the temp gauge move into the red, our local mechanic said it's losing coolant, added some and suggested we bring it to the dealer, as this is a characteristic problem for Blazers. Our dealer (Dan Perkins - Milford CT) found nothing wrong.

    Again, after a couple weeks (long enough for a slow leak?), same symptoms. After being towed from Massachussets back to CT, dealer replaces water pump.

    Again, after another couple weeks, same symptoms. Intake leak (which dealer claims wasn't there on first two visits) is now being fixed.

    Does anyone know if a Technical Service Bulletin relates to these problems? (99-06-02-012B?)

    I'm just hoping to keep this trade-in running until our on-order 2002 Honda Odyssey comes in. I've learned my lession.
  • dufus2506dufus2506 Member Posts: 2
    I've had lots of trouble with my 97 Jimmy lately, and the crazy thing is I keep finding solutions when I'm not looking for them. Here goes another...

    I was having trouble with the windshield wipers (they wouldn't shut off, or ran at odd speeds during interval mode) and also had a Service Engine Soon light lit on the dash. Then, of all things, my battery dies! Argh! Well, I replaced the battery, (Thanks Sears) and lo and behold, my wipers began working correctly and the service engine light went off!

    The totally frustrating thing is that I had the truck in to a dealer a week ago to check the Service Engine problem, and he sold me an oxygen sensor. ($206) I probably didn't need one, I just needed better 12v power to it...

    I've seen lots of posts here for wiper module replacements and service engine problems. Before you take it to the mechanic, check your battery.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    did you know anytime you disconnect the battery that will reset the check engine soon light?

    Even if you left the old battery there the light would have went off

    Might be more wrong than a new battery

  • misterjohnnymisterjohnny Member Posts: 41
    I took my Blazer (70k miles_ in because it took a couple seconds to turn over when it was cold. $1200, a tune up and a new radiator later, the problem wasn't fixed. Took it back, and they replaced a piece of the emission control system. I wish they had checked that before I paid $1200 for everything else, but I digress. Two months later it stalled at a light for no apparent reason. Two days after that it stalled on the San Diego Fwy during rush hour (talk about scary!). Both times it started right away. The dealer had it for almost a week but couldn't find out what was wrong or duplicate the problem. Has anyone else had this happen?
  • skoobieskoobie Member Posts: 4
    hello all--just wanted to commiserate a little here with y'all;I bought a 97 2-dr 4wd LS in August of 98. It had 26k on it and had been owned by one of the dealer's employee's wives. I thought, "great, it's been taken care of". after it hit 36k, the problems started. first it left me stranded (wouldn't start) and turned out I had a defective battery...ok, no big deal. then not long after the gas gauge stopped working. I later discovered (again stranded) that was due to my fuel pump/sending unit which was a super-expensive repair-- had to take the whole dang tank off to get to it. next I needed some sort of tensioner arm or something. then began the heater problems; I was freezing to death. I took it to the dealer SIX times to fix this problem. they finally decided they were going to have to replace the heater core which was also extremely expensive. something about low coolant of the new environmentally-friendly kind which causes crap to build up in your heater system. I took it to a friend's dad who owns a dealership back home & he "cleaned it out" for me and went back to the old type coolant and at least kept me warm. knew this was only a short-term fix though. then this summer rolls around and my A/C sucks. never got that fixed. then began noticing my transmission started slipping after long trips. low transmission fluid? no way! turns out they need to take the transmission out and possibly replace it--cost of at least $1200, maybe $2000. I said screw it, I'm trading it and did. A NEW TRANSMISSION ON A 4-YEAR OLD VEHICLE WITH 70k????? I thought that was impossible. seriously, what a piece of crap it was. I think I will forever be bitter over that purchase. it really makes it hard for me to imagine ever buy American again. I spent over $3000 in repairs in three years on that thing. woe is me...
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    Welcome to the club! I don't know how GM gets away with it. We should report every problem to the National Highway Saftey Admin. Most of these problems can kill someone if they happen at the wrong time. Contact the BBB too. If enough of us complain GM may get the picture. I want to trade mine but the resale value is very poor.

    If all the problems were not enough, check out the offset crash results. Blazer nearly breaks in two crushing the driver!
  • skoobieskoobie Member Posts: 4
    the trade-in on mine was heartbreaking. however, the crash test results were the proverbial straw that broke the camel's back in my case. i had been so hesitant to give up on it because it was paid for :(

    i forgot to mention brakes in my first post too... i'm pretty sure i went thru at least 3 sets. then there are all the general flaws-- like general lack of comfort, horrible ventilation system, tiny back seat (2 dr), the stretched out elastic straps on my visors and cd holder, had to sew part of my seat back together with fishing line, etc. etc. etc. sorry for the whining, but i'm still very bitter ;o)

    i seriously would like to make my problems known to GM and other potential buyers. where do i start?
  • rok9900rok9900 Member Posts: 4
    I need to hear from ZR2 owners if they are as ggod as the hype. Also, what does Chevy mean by a wider track? As far as I know it exactly the same width as the regular 2 door except for the flares and the underbody stuff. I have a Durango which is good and much bigger but I really want an '01 ZR2. Help!
  • ghuletghulet Member Posts: 2,564
    my brother's has almost 80k, it's been pretty reliable but not trouble-free. The a/c seems currently to be leaking (I had a recharge/freon in June, and another yesterday at no charge) and the ABS idiot light has been on since he bought it (just found out, now that it's out of warranty, that it needs the 'speed sensor' replaced, $700). No wiper or transmission problems, thank God.
    I think as an SUV it's OK, though I've got to think there are better out there. I think most people would be better served by a station wagon, including my brother. This thing has the turning radius of a 747, sounds and feels like an old bed when going over bumps, has laughably slow steering and brakes, and gets 12mpg consistently around town. Not for me.
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