Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • vlkohanskivlkohanski Member Posts: 17
    1996 was not a good year for the Blazer. Actually, reliability started to go straight downhill in the 90's. 1995-1997 seem to be the worst years, although improvement since then has been minor. Judging from what I hear about them, your transmission is next. I have one of the much older ones. It's rock solid, but it IS old. I considered upgrading to a later model, because I really need four doors. After test driving a few and checking around, I decided it wasn't an upgrade, after all.
  • packman2packman2 Member Posts: 13
    I own a used 97, L.T.with 64,000 on it,after reading alot of the older posting,I was worried,but so far,I have had no problems at all,I owned it about 8 months,,It drives and looks like new,,one thing I do hate is the anti-lock brakes,on dry payment they work fine ,,but on ice they scare you...the 4 wheel drive is great this winter..I don't think I could go back to a 2 wheel drive,,I live in Wisconsin..
  • abc246abc246 Member Posts: 305
    Flyinby…..The schematic should be available at a library for the turn signal circuit. From what I remember the flasher module has two inputs, one for turn and one for 4-way flasher. I would measure the voltage at the turn signal input to test if the module or switch is bad. I would bet the problem is the switch in the column.

    GM has a serious problem with these turn signal switches and I would report any failures to
    My Blazer has a problem most people will not detect but is very dangerous. If I use the lane change feature (push turn signal level to activate signal but not far enough to latch the signal on) one turn signal may not be operating. In other words, when I change lanes to the right, my dash indicator operates, the right front turn signal operates, but the rear turn signal is NOT operating!!!!! I have found this type of condition on many GM cars. The reason this happens is because GM uses a switch with many contacts in the steering column. As the switch ages some contacts start to "make" connection before the others. This can cause different things to happen. One of my friends has a 98 Yukon that in some lane changes the flasher module operates but no indicators light. In other words, when you hear the flasher module operating you are not guaranteed to have the turn signal illuminated. I would bet many GM car and trucks will have these type of problems when the switch ages enough (most likely out of warranty). The real problem is most people will not even know they have a very dangerous condition that my cause a serious accident.

    I contacted GM with my concerns but my 99 Blazer has 38,000 miles and is out of warranty. GM gave me the usual, WE DON'T CARE, the truck is out of warranty and your problem.

    I would not buy a GM Blazer/Jimmy, new or used. These trucks have poor overall quality and very poor offset crash test results. GM has not reached bottom yet. The engines and transmissions are excellent. The body build quality and just about everything else is junk. In the last year these parts have been replaced (under warranty), ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, battery, power steering pump, door hinge, radio, speaker, rear brake rotors, heater core. That is a lot of trips to the dealer. This list doesn't include driveline noises they could not fix.

    Save time and money, pass on a Blazer / Jimmy. The question is will the new models be better? I think they will be better but still no match for a Toyota. I have a new Silverado that was just towed back to the dealer with 2000 miles on it. It is a much better truck then the Blazer but is "in no uncertain terms" the quality of a Toyota. Even though I want to buy American, I will buy the manufacture that builds excellent vehicles next time, sorry GM.
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    Had my coolant recently changed in my '97 Bravada because I don't believe the hype of 5-yr./150k mile change interval... others haven't been so lucky:

    Hope this helps.
  • kpannkpann Member Posts: 13
    When starting off from a dead stop the gas pedel hangs, So when it finally frees up it jerks on the take off. I sprayed lubricant on the throttle body but didn't help. Anyone have a fix.
  • flyinbyflyinby Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the post. Against GM's belief I'm not the only one with this problem, I received an e-mail from another onlooker last night. I've noticed that after several minutes the turn signal clicking slows down. But as soon as you jiggle the turn signal lever it starts clicking away. I'm putting money on the column switch. I have the HELM service manual and will be tackling the switch replacement when the weather warms up here in the Northeast. Funny thing... GM doesn't sell the switch with out the whole lever arm assembly (go figure)...

    I'll keep an eye out for the the problem you've seen with the non operating lights. The big one that I've seen and my father is experiencing is the engine knock/ping on the 1999 Blazer. It makes my turn signal problem seem like nothing!!!
  • houstonmanhoustonman Member Posts: 11
    I have read the horror stories about the Blazer and read Consumer's Report, yet I have talked to several people i.e. my boss who owns a 1990 with 230,000 miles, a co-worker with a 1992 and 166,000 miles, another co-worker with a 1996 with 66,000 miles on it, and a woman who owned a 1995 with 106,000 on it that I met a a Stop-n-Go. All these people like their vehicles. Three mentioned that the battery and/or alternator had to be replaced, but nothing major. Something isn't adding up. Thus, I don't know what to believe. If CR is correct, why haven't I been able to find a Blazer owner who hates his vehicle? If someone would respond to me give me an e-mail address so I could get more information or give me the unbiased facts using this town hall, I would be very grateful.
  • sasquatch_2000sasquatch_2000 Member Posts: 800
    I was asking myself the same thing.

    Then I got the tipoff:

    "I'd recommend it, the dealership is right here in town, which is great for WHEN you need service."

    My answer to that was: "I have a Honda. I don't need service."

    I think the same parallel generally applies to all American and Japanese car brands.
  • 69266926 Member Posts: 1
    I have owned a '97 Blazer, a '98 Blazer, and just purchased a 2001 Blazer. I have driven all three about 90,000 and have had little to no problems with any of them. Every car will have isolated problems, and few people post good experiences. There will be defects on cars, but I don't think these problems discussed are representative of what every car buyer will experience. I will say that this is one of the best 6-cylinder towing vehicles. Some 8-cyl SUVs do not have the towing capacity that the Blazer has. If there is one complaint, it would be the brakes on the '97. But GM fixed this problem with the '98. I did not have any problems, but the '98 and 21001 with 4 wheel disk brakes are much better.
  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    Tell all those people posting on the Accord problems areas that they don't need the dealer because nothing is wrong with their cars.
  • mrurlmrurl Member Posts: 116
    My wife's 2000 Blazer refused to start yesterday. GM Roadside Assist told her it was probably the anti-theft system. They recommended that she wash the key with a mild detergent, dry it, put it in the ignition in the "on" position, wait 15 minutes, and then try to start it. No go. It's at the dealer now having the entire key assembly and anti-theft switch replaced.

    Is this a common problem? Will the new switch also fail?

  • mrurlmrurl Member Posts: 116
    1. When driving down the highway with cruise on, the engine will quit and the tach will go to 0. A few seconds later the engine will come back on and come back to speed, usually with a downshift to 2nd and 4500 rpm.

    2. The engine stalls in traffic and when shifting from R to D on an intermittant basis (never at the dealer).

    Neither event ever sets a trouble code. Could they be related to the problem listed in #63?

  • smaroneysmaroney Member Posts: 2
    in cold weather my blazer wont start, the battery has enough power to crank it over, but when the engine tries to fire it sounds like its missing. can anyone help me?
  • smaroneysmaroney Member Posts: 2
    oh if it matters its a 93 s-10 tahoe blazer, with a 4.3l vortec engine and it has 126,00 miles
  • knokesknokes Member Posts: 2
    I have a '93 S-10 Blazer with 114K. My father owns several Blazers and Jimmys with which he runs his rural mail route and absolutely loves them. I, unfortunately, do not feel the same. Mine has had so many problems that the repair receipts no longer fit into the glove box. At least I had the foresight to purchase an extended warranty. Even still, I have spent $2000 out of pocket on repairs. I joke at the repair shop that if I got frequent-flier miles that I could have gone around the world twice by now. Love the way it drives and handles, hate not knowing what's going to tear up next. Read an apt description on another site- "An S-10 Blazer is a hole in the road surrounded by metal through which you pour money." If I can get rid of this one, there will not be another.
  • rescremrescrem Member Posts: 2
    I had a 93 that was ok aside from several sets of brakes, electrical and cooling problems. It was when the fuel control module went for the second time that finished my truck for good. gm could not get the part for several months. so basically i had to buy a car. what did i buy- a 2000 s10 4wd. $33,000. worth. well at @32k mile the oil coolant lines are leaking so they are staining my driveway pretty heavily. the dealer says no problem, warrantied. but we have to order the parts- oil coolant lines. they d and repalce them. the work was done 7 days ago under warranty at the dealer i bought the truck from. well on 2/2 i am driving buy the dealer and the check gauges light comes on flooowed by the intense small of burning oil. The truck dies and i coast into the service area.basically, the lines came off the top of the radiator oil all over the exerior, engine compartment, etc. the dealer say what did i do? to the epilogue- they do not know for sure but the engine could be totalled- $3800.000 worth of total. If it is engine at best the will put a rebuilt or reman parts in to it- my new still under warranty truck. the moral is i told myself not to buy another chev blazer after problems with my 93. so what do i do? yep i asked for more of the same. and this is a $33000. truck. Unoffically i was told by a gm related person to consider getting rid of the truck- that i just bought, that the GM dealer just screwed up.......i do know it won't be another s10 blazer. oh my.
  • rescremrescrem Member Posts: 2
    I had a 93 that was ok aside from several sets of brakes, electrical and cooling problems. It was when the fuel control module went for the second time that finished my truck for good. gm could not get the part for several months. so basically i had to buy a car. what did i buy- a 2000 s10 4wd. $33,000. worth. well at @32k mile the oil coolant lines are leaking so they are staining my driveway pretty heavily. the dealer says no problem, warrantied. but we have to order the parts- oil coolant lines. they did and replaced them. the work was done 7 days ago under warranty at the dealer i bought the truck from. well on 2/2 i am driving buy the dealer and the check gauges light comes on followed by the intense small of burning oil. The truck dies and i coast into the service area. basically, the lines the dealer just replaced came off the top of the radiator- oil all over the exerior, engine compartment, etc. the dealer says what did i do? to the epilogue- they do not know for sure but the engine could be totalled- $3800.000 worth of total. If it is engine at best the dealer will put a rebuilt or reman parts in to it- my new still under warranty truck. the moral is i told myself not to buy another chev blazer after problems with my 93. so what do i do? yep i asked for more of the same. and this is a $33000. truck. Unoffically i was told by a gm related person to consider getting rid of the truck- that i just bought, that the GM dealer just screwed up.......i do know it won't be another s10 blazer. oh my.
  • mtbnutmtbnut Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 I/ 68,000. Just dropped $4k new engine in it. My coolant level always seemed low but I was never leaking any. It was getting into the engine block which eventually led to a blown engine. Weird scenario before and after the new engine. Service soon light comes on and when it's on, the shift from 1st to 2nd gear is very hard & rough. If I am lucky enough to get it to a mechanic when the SEA light is on, it either gets no readings on computer to pinpoint problem or shows an AS problem. The hard part is getting it to the mechanic when the light is on. It's only on for 1-2 hours a week. Has anyone experienced these problems before. I am concerned that the same issues exist and will lead to another major investment. I also experience the radiator sludge.
  • rustywskierrustywskier Member Posts: 2
    I had similar problems with my 97 Jimmy although not as bad as what you describe. I had some light carbon/soot buildup on the inside of the throttle body which was causing the butterfly to hang just a bit. I used some carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush and cleaned the inside of the throttle body and that fixed it for about 40K miles
  • bonkrzbonkrz Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1995 Blazer T. Loaded her up at the time. Most unreliable brakes I have ever experienced. Electrical system also bad. Have had battery problems... instant dead... for no reason. Bought the extended warranty... good thing!!! Have 50,000 miles on it... in mint condition and already ordered another brand of SUV. I would never normally purchase another car within 5 years, especially with this low mileage and MINT condition. BUT... It's garbage. Braking is completely unreliable and has had two recalls. If you hit just a slight dip...pebble...bump while applying brakes... you hear the anti-lock kick in... and GROAN and GLIDE...right into someone if you're not careful. Pedal hits the floor...and no more
    brakes. It turns the casual stop into an adrenaline rush. The minute the tires sense a little different road surface...look out!. Still happens after two recalls and fixes. They OPERATE AS DESIGNED is their standard line. Yeah...designed to hit another car...or someone in a crosswalk. It's stupid and Chevy knows it! I no longer trust American made cars.

    In addition...have you seen the crash tests? Pleeze! Put some pressure on Chevy to redesign this 'death trap' body style. It's not something you could LIVE with...gang. Chevy has lost its edge in the SUV market...big time! Too bad too. Don't buy one... Admittedly they've got some neat bells and whistles...but it's only mirage.

    I'm trading this one...and it will be a beautiful looking truck. Clean...just like new. Uh huh...and I won't personally sell it...WHY? I don't want the "guilt complex" for the people who buy it. I won't even let my kids drive this thing.
  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    NYC cabs (as in New York City) routinely dis-able the ABS by pulling a fuse. They do it to get maximum braking (as in shortest distance).
  • gfkgfk Member Posts: 1
    Everything Mark has said about the brakes is true. Also had 2 recalls for brakes and still the same. The response I got from dealer the same. Also has engine problems but took extended warranty , Thank the good lord. I would be out $2000 - $3000.
    I am thinking of trading my in because of the brake situation.
    I must admit after going through the recalls it ran very good. But there is a problem with the brakes and the brakes wear out extreamly fast.
  • bonkrzbonkrz Member Posts: 6

    Obviously, as previously posted, our trucks are kindred spirits. I'm trading mine in on an MDX. Worries are almost over for me. It's a shame...the kids are having a fit because it's clean and looks showroom new. And...I'm taking a bath on the trade because I won't sell it to anyone. I'm delivering all the paperwork/repairwork...let someone else figure it out. I think it should be salvaged for parts. Anything but "brake" parts, that is.

    Three months after I got it, I wrote a letter to Chevy. My response? A $2,500 credit on another one. They're putting families in danger and don't even care. The crash ratings are horrible, it's a shame. I'm forever done with american made cars.
  • houstonmanhoustonman Member Posts: 11
    I don't own a Blazer, but I am looking at them along with other SUV's, and I have a few questions for Mr. bonkrz. You mention that due to your personal experiences with your Blazer, you will never buy an American vehicle again.

    You then state you have purchased a MDX which has a base price of $34,320 (Cheapest Model), is in its first year of production, and is made in Canada. Does this make any sense? First you compare a low end SUV (Chevy)to a very high end SUV in price and manufacturer. You then state you want reliability, but buy a first year production vehicle, and from a manufacturer that doesn't have a history of making SUV's, and you buy the SUV which uses the same labor pool i.e. North American (USA & Canada) that GM uses.

    If you were really interested in purchasing a SUV which had a highly rated history, wouldn't a Toyota 4 Runner or a Nissan Pathfinder have been the logical choice, and both of these SUV's are less expensive than the MDX. I haven't investigated where the Toyota or Nissan are made, but they have been around for years. (I know Honda makes the CRV, but Honda hardly is known for off setting the standards for road vehicles or even SUV's.)

    I suspect a personal grudge had more of an influence in your purchase of the MDX rather than logic, for your requirements don't match your decision.
  • bonkrzbonkrz Member Posts: 6

    Hi. My decision to purchase the Blazer in 95 was because I did not want a van and did want to be "higher up' for safety...etc. Cost was not much of a factor. In 1995 Chevy Blazer had the best (touring) suspension (SUV-wise); topping even Toyota. Everything comparable at that time was very truck-like and I hated the ride. When I got the Blazer...I loaded it with 3k in after market toys. I'd planned to drive it 10 years. What happened?

    After my purchase...within a few months...I noticed the brake issue. I took it to the dealer...complained...found an area where the anti-lock/anti-stop worked every time...and took the service manager there...for a test drive. They knew...I knew...and I got hot on GM's trail. After an unusual amount of persistence...I found out that THEY KNEW about the potential problem and "fixes" were already in the works. I don't know how many intersections with a Blazer full of kids that I nearly flew through because of those brakes...but it was several. Two recalls later...the problem still exists during certain road conditions. Conditional brakes are not OK. 'nuff said.

    My decision to look at alternatives was strictly because the Chevy Blazer brakes were dangerous but I delayed my immediate search for another SUV because they all rode like trucks. So...I learned which conditions would provoke the brake defect...and which were safer...and drove it accordingly. Hoping that somebody would not violently stop or pull out and cause an emergency braking situation on anything other that the perfectly smooth road surface.

    Before I began looking for a replacement and because the suspension is a hot button for me...I knew which SUV's tended to ride like a truck...and the ones which were more car-like. Since '95 many have joined the SUV market. Your auto suggestions are great...but the suspension and other amenities do not compare to the MDX.

    Price was not much of a factor in my I was not locked into the Blazer's price range. I do believe a loaded Blazer will run right around 32K. My loaded MDX is just under 40K.

    The decision to buy "first year" is again based on trust and the fact that once you drive the MDX...little compares. In addition, Acura has a decent track record. I looked at BMW...MBZ...Lexus. Lexus was closest to the MDX ride. The others, no matter what the cost, were still too truck-like.

    People will continue to purchase Blazers and I think you should explore all avenues. I also think you should check out the MDX because it is the definition of "common sense".
  • tgraham2tgraham2 Member Posts: 1
    It has come to our attention that the 95 and up chevy and Gmc jimmys (4wd) have been having problems with their remote oil cooler lines leaking and various tranmission problems. Currently my wife drives a '96 Jimmy 4wd with appx 87K miles on it. We are taking it into the dealer to have the remote oil cooler/ filter line assembly changed out. This is the assembly from the radiator to the remote filter housing. Apparently their is over 10 other customers waiting for the same part to come in and have it installed. GM has backordered this particular assembly and rumor has it it is being re-designed! I am of the impression that this needs to be a recall!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe we should start a petition to recall. Another problem that is diagnosed yet not taken care of (that we have heard about) is a SLOW reaction time engaging reverse gear. i.e. When the vehicle is started, shifted from park into reverse there is a delay. Count to 3 and reverse grabs. Now, GM has a time specification and apparently 3 seconds or so is acceptable to them. However, if you have ever parked on an incline, put your car in reverse and let off the brake, you know what will happen. If reverse does not grab immediately you will begin rolling. Accidents happen. GM will not replace transmissions with this problem. Lastly, We have heard about the "Encoder" on the 4WD transfer case having problems. i.e. Since this winter has been a little harsher than some, people have used their 4wd more. Thus causing the "encoder" to error and create a "check engine light" and fault code. This is not supposed to be cheap to repair. Therefore, if this is a safety and service issue it sounds to me like GM needs to "Recall" and repair these encoders. That's about all I have for now. Any thoughts or success stories getting GM to pay for these type problems would be good to share with other owners.

    Thank you
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    Same problem on my '97 Bravada.

    I had developed a oil leak, and had one oil cooler line (P/N 15726903) and two seals (P/N 15701719) replaced in April '00, @ 34,409 miles.

    Well, last week I noticed oil spots on the garage floor... guess what? Same area, and as I found out today, the oil cooler lines are leaking again!!! (When I brought it in, I made a prediction to the service advisor that it was probably another oil line leak, and he rolled his eyes...) The truck now has 46,600 miles on it. Although I have a third party 6 yr./60K extended warranty through LIBERTY NATIONAL WARRANTY CORP, Miami, Fl, which was sold by the Oldsmobile finance guy as "supposedly" bumper-to-bumper, the warranty company does NOT cover it. Why? Because it is a rubber hose. Hah! Since when are oil cooler lines a normal maintenance item??? I can see radiator hoses being a normal wear item, but not oil cooler lines. If that's so, then do I need to worry about the high-pressure rubber fuel lines, too?

    But I digress... I am waiting for the oil cooler lines, as well, as they are on "national backorder". I was told they would be in stock in one week... hmmm, is my service advisor a little optimistic???

    Well, at least with this repair, I have at least equalled the amount spent on the warranty coverage to the amount of service work done... that's not saying much for the reliability of this vehicle. Too bad, because I am overall satisfied with the comfort and ride of the Bravada.

    I haven't had an issue with the transmission. Have you changed the fluid yet? The poor design of the dipstick & tube allows water into the tranny internals, causing rust to form on the dipstick. I believe contaminated fluid has shortened the life of many S-truck transmissions.

    A Service Bulletin exists that uses a different dipstick and tube. I had this SB completed around 30K miles, and have not had any tranny problems. I change the fluid at least every 30K miles, sometimes 15K miles depending on conditions.
  • pwash19pwash19 Member Posts: 14
    Now that my 98 Blazer is going out of warranty is there something I can do to make the engine ping go away and not drain the checkbook and still maintain emissions standards? Yes I burn 93 octane. I guess GM's fix for this will be the new six in the 2002. I won't go there. Burn me once, shame on me, GM will not get a second time. Enough of that.
    Back to pinging. Maybe a different heat range for the spark plug or some aftermarket computer chip for the control module. I am going to try a independent garage for a second opinion. Anyones HELP would be appreciated.
  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    to disable the anti-locking feature?

    It sounds like you have a very dangerous lack of braking. But apparently not enough to look into pulling a fuse to disable the anti-lock controller.

    I don't know the fuse specifics for a 95 Blazer, but they were pullling fuses on mid 90's chevy cabs to disable the anti-lock brakes.
  • bonkrzbonkrz Member Posts: 6

    Thought of that...but was told there is no fuse in this 95. Also...there can be some question as to equipment issues in the event of a wreck. Insurance companies are all over that kind of stuff and routinely look for modifications. If they're not used as can cause yourself some problems.

    But...thanks for the tip!
  • ba_ba_booeeba_ba_booee Member Posts: 1
    Accordingto the original window sticker on my 98 Blazer it is supposed to have an 18 gallon tank but I have never put more than 16 gallons in it and that includes topping off the tank. I ran out of gas once and it only took about 15.5 gallons to fill it completely. I have occassionally driven it down to extremely low levels and still haven't been able to put more than 16 gallons of gas in it. Has anyone else ever noticed this problem? Chevy had a class action lawsuit filed against them in the late 90's on behalf of owners who owned either 96/97 or 97/98 Tahoe's that had a similar problem with 20 galllon tanks that were supposedly undersized.
  • bonkrzbonkrz Member Posts: 6
    ba ba

    RE: Gas tank issues

    My 95 Blazer has the same size tank. I had problems with the car cutting out when the gauge just hit the orange section. I noticed that if I went up a small hill (tipping the vehicle slightly) the engine would sometimes cut out and found myself sputtering into the gas station. On level ground, you can usually restart it and drive it the gas station. I never thought the gauge was properly synced with the "floater/or whatever" in the tank. Or, it's possible that the tank itself is shaped in such a way that it doesn't ever efficiently use that last gallon.

    We live in hilly terrain so, I try to avoid letting it go below a quarter tank. You are probably aware of how FAST that last half tank of gas goes! I don't think I've ever received a receipt with more than a 17gal fill.
  • badgerpaulbadgerpaul Member Posts: 219
    I one time put 19.5 gals in my 99 LT, I must have been running on fumes. I routinely can put in an extra 2 gals after the automatic shutoff works.
  • in2dadarkin2dadark Member Posts: 18
    Bought a 95 blazer new and now has 120k.. 9 (count em) recalls later I am done with american cars. Having wipers stop in duh middle of a Florida rain storm with these brakes is enouth to make the hair on my chest gray....

    But I am going to sell it to whoever wants it ..buyer b ware...aunty lock brakes recently let me down in a snow storm and I slid into a slip and fall dude. I wasn't even goin fast, now he has a sore neck and there was not even damage on his vehicle.

    I have driven like an ole lady for sex years bcause of this wreck and now I am still b hind duh dark ball.

    What to drive next.. Who knows what's lurking out there...
  • houstonmanhoustonman Member Posts: 11
    If you don't want your $2,500 credit for a new Blazer, I'll take it.
  • kem1kem1 Member Posts: 24
    Check out the American vs. Foreign board under Smart Shopper.

    I talk about how the American auto makers are completely failing compared to Foreign auto makers in the last 5 years. When I say "American" I mean American companies (the 'big 3'), many "Foreign" companies make their cars here in the U.S. but don't seem to have the same quality design and manufacturing problems. Toyota, Honda and Subaru are all making quality vehicles using U.S. labor, why can't GM, Chrysler, and Ford?
  • tonychrystonychrys Member Posts: 1,310
    kem1 Feb 21, 2001 11:21am

    The big difference is that the Big 3 use UAW labor and the others don't. If you have to pay a line worker with barely a high school education $20 to $30 an hour, then you have to cut corners in other areas to keep the price of the car competitive with the "foreign" cars. Simple economic fact.
  • houston_16houston_16 Member Posts: 1
    Hey how problimatic are chevy blazer (93). Its my first car and i don't know what to expect?
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Member Posts: 6
    I would be extremely in favor of a recall considering I have replaced this hose once a year and a half ago. About two weeks ago, the crip in the same hose failed, I lost my oil and it locked my engine up. I am now having to buying a new engine. If this is a common problem, GMC owes me a new engine!
  • tstabiletstabile Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced my oil cooler lines 4 times in the past 2 1/2 years. The original GM lines are a piece of crap. On two occasions, the cooler lines completely seperated from the crimped metal clamp , leaving my engine without oil. I was lucky I caught the needle on the oil pressure gauge going down or I would be buying a new motor. not once, but twice. My mechanic said that since I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, it probably bought me a few minutes. I have corrected the problem by installing clamps which you can actuaaly torque to tighten, These are special clamps that you can buy at auto centers for $5.00 a piece. GM in Canada has told me that they have a new engineered rubber hosing. I looked at it and it still looks like a piece of crap. The problems on my GM blazer is extensive. I will never buy another GM vehicle again.
  • blazer6991blazer6991 Member Posts: 1
    love to trade it in so much going on it like oil cooler lines replace one & replace the seals on the other oil cooler line seals stop the leaking for now, replace oxygen sensor,replace two battery's,replace belt tensioner,replace the intake manifold Gasket because it was linking,had the recall done on the a.s.b. brakes,flasher fuss replace,tune up done because check engine light said bad #5 cyc. bad spark wire only 58700 miles on it. Know what the check light back on,start it up or sit at a stop light, light flash's truck run's bad then runs great, But check engine light stays on but does not flash,But it runs good some time. Look's good in the drive way park there.Next step take it to a ele. shop & care repair shop. So glad I'm not alone with this night mare From HELL.
  • poisondartfrogpoisondartfrog Member Posts: 102
    Please provide more info. Where did you get the clamps? Who makes them? Just had my 2nd set of oil cooler lines installed on 2/26... want to keep them on.

    Maybe the aftermarket needs to take notice and design a custom set of oil lines for the 4.3 S-trucks???
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Member Posts: 6
    I was thinking of putting together a petition towards a recall of the oil cooling lines, since it seems so many have had this problem. I have created an email address: [email protected] I would like to get one-hundred (100) emails first showing interest in this before I formulate and pass one around. If interested, please send just a short email to that address.

    Brandon Morgan
  • lardflardf Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Blazer LS that (so far) I have been satisfied with. My problem began when it had around 18,000 miles on it. I switched from 2WD to 4HI, as I have many times, but this time when I switched back to 2WD there was an unusual noise (like a 'growl') that starts at around 40MPH and fades away at around 55MPH. If I switch back to 4HI, the noise stops. I brought the car to the dealer to check it out and (after they kept the car for two days) they told me that the sound was normal. Something about the front axle "freewheeling" when in 2WD at this speed and the noise was nothing to be concerned about. About two weeks later, the car wouldn't shift into 4HI at all, it would only shift from 2WD to 4LO, and would hesitate before engaging 4LO. The dealer replaced something called an 'actuator' and again told me that the noise was not related to this problem and was normal. I'm convinced that something is wrong somewhere in the drivetrain, but can't seem to convince the dealer. If the noise was 'normal', it should have been there from day one, which it wasn't. The sound is almost unbearable at times and I'm sure it's getting worse every day. Has anyone ever had this problem? I need some advice!
  • spoomspoom Member Posts: 85
    In 1998, having had only Toyotas since '76 I found myself unable to afford another 4Runner after a divorce. I found a loaded '97 GMC Jimmy SLT 4x w/28K and bought it. Soon it seemed to need too much gas when backing up so I brought it back. Seems a forward clutch didn't fully disengage, they rebuild the whole thing under warranty. Well, I just stuck $1500 into it at 52k miles when the "basket" that has the spine shaft for the reverse planetary snapped. No reverse OD or 2nd gear. In between I've replaced 2 of the 4 oxygen sensors. The temp gauge wanders all over even after a new thermostat. A pyrometer check shows actual temp varying by only 5° or so while gauge goes 20° or more. Oh well, screw it. The "service engine soon" light is on so often I don't even notice any more. I find myself slamming on the brakes whenever someone is tailgating me, hoping to get a new truck. I wouldn't buy another GM piece of crap again if you put a gun to my head. (I work for a supplier to GM and would even get a discount.)
  • specfourspecfour Member Posts: 3
    good by to my 1997 Blazer LT I traded it in on a 01 Pathfinder thank god I bought the extended warranty when I bought this thing in 1996 after it went past three years the ever so common oil line leaks three times rear seal also fuel sending unit alternator fan belt also problems so common to all the other posts Before I traded it in I brought it in to a Chev dealer to go all over it they did a 30000 mile service and found a cracked belt tensioner also another oil leak the line going to the rear all this with only 35000 miles by by GM
  • axosaxos Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 AS Blazer and I noticed a pinging noise when I run my air conditioner or defroster. While investigating this problem further my air conditioner no longer puts out cold air. Has anyone else had similar problems with their compressor?
  • azchevy3azchevy3 Member Posts: 2
    Your 4WD encoder motor went bad. There is a lot of work involved in locating the problem, but that is what it is. Be glad its under warranty, the repair can be as much as $1,200-$1,400.
  • azchevy3azchevy3 Member Posts: 2
    My transmission just died yesterday. The car only has 56,000 miles. The 4WD encoder motor went out at 40,000 miles. This car is a total piece of crap. I assure everyone, this will be the last Blazer I will ever own. The slogan "Like a Rock" means the car is a financial rock pulling you down until you get rid of the piece of crap that it is.
  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    A 2000 Jimmy with 7,000 miles. Sounds like tire tread hum. Shifts in and out of 4WD OK. I tried testing it at speed but don't get the growl consistently.

    So its probably the encoder?

    I'll let you know what happens next.
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