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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bbieraugelbbieraugel Posts: 4
    A friend of mine owns a 1998 Suburban and encountered the same problem. His was fixed under warranty and was due to a plugged up evaporator core for the AC unit. The water drained into the passenger compartment. He ended up getting all new carpeting as well as the AC evaporator core. Once the parts were in; about one week,it took two days to finish off the repair.

    Good luck !!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Got this from


    http://www.pacific-audio.com


    97 Tahoe water leak.

    I found out where the truck is leaking. I noticed that the passenger floor was wet after a rain or washing the truck. I pulled the carpet back and found that the carpet is rubber backed and the padding is like a sponge! By the time you feel your carpet is damp the padding is soaked!! I found a small leak coming from the top of the firewall right hand side running down the lower right corner and pooling in the under passenger step tread. I could not find the exact spot however a little silicone (flowable) between where the passenger side hood hinge bolts to the body and the cowling stopped the leak.

    Drying out the carpet padding is proving to be a large problem.

    If you think that you may have a leak. Take a look you might be riding on a sponge!

  • mrurlmrurl Posts: 116
    My wife's Blazer had a similar problem. They replaced the Passlock anti-theft system 3 times, the battery once, and the starter twice.

    Then they found a TSB from June 00 about the crankshaft position sensor. This is very easily replaced (20 minutes) and the part is cheap. This finally seems to have solved the problem.

    I'll try to post the TSB number on my site tonight in my forums: www.gearheadsanonymous.com

    Peter
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    I also had wet carpet and damp smell in my 99 BLazer. I could not find the leak. I even put a hose running full at the bottom of the windshield with no leaks.

    It was very difficult to dry the carpet. The padding is thick and carpet doesn't vent well. The carpet is staying dry now.

    The only reason I can think of is I had to drive through deep water a few times. I think that water splashed up the panel between the door and the firewall and got the carpet wet. This is another poor design by GM for a SUV.
  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 198
    Recently noticed a loud "pop" from the front end when I turned the wheel hard right on my 2000 Jimmy. By dumb luck I just discovered a a service bulletin on this. Anyone have same experience?
  • jjocjjocjjocjjoc Posts: 24
    Regarding post #178, I think $13,900 is too high for a 1997 with 135K miles. I own a 96 LT that's worth about $12k (middle) but it only has 66k. Don't know what it's like accross the country, but in No.california the price of SUV's are coming way down to resonable levels. If you really like the vehicle, I'd offer at least 2-3k less. I've seen a lot of good deals in the 12-15k range for Blazers, Explorers, etc. with mileage well under 100k. Anyway, that's my 2 cents. Good Luck! I bought my Blazer for $16,700 two years ago when it had 35k miles. So far, so good, although I did have to replace the AC compressor (ouch!)
  • jjocjjocjjocjjoc Posts: 24
    I've got 66k on my 1996 4x4 Lt blazer and feel the shocks need replacing (I lot of bouncing and 'leaping and bounding').
    Any recommendations out there on what type of shocks? I don't do much if any off roading (rough gravel or dirt roads probably the worst) and would like to get something that provides a smoother stable ride.
    Thanks.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    I would recommend the gas variety of shock. I'm not going to suggest a particular brand, only stick with the name brands. Bilstein, tokico, edelbrocks, kyb, etc. I don't think you can go wrong with any of these.

    The shocks you probably can get locally are the Monroes. But they are not quite up to the others I mentioned in quality.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    monroe has a new sensitrac shock i believe. SUpposed to be a good shock.

    They are also buy 3 get 1 free for about another month

    If you do offroading or want a stiffer ride go with bilsteins or edelbrock IAS shocks

    Ryan
  • I have a 1987 chevy suburban and its been a good truck. The battery was dead & since it was approx 6 years old I just replace it 2 week ago , then last week I was working in the garage then I swear I heard the fuel pump "pumping" for no good reason ,the truck had been parked at least 2 days,I didn't give it much thought @ the moment, then a couple of days later I was going to use the truck and the battery was dead. ? has anyone out there had this problem ?? according to the book it could be the fuel pump relay switch, or the oil pressure sensor unit or the ECM which controls the fuel system .Something is sending a signal to the pump to work, bypassing the ignition switch ,what could it be? (Note: the fuel tank unit is "loose" in the tank , This is a "GENETIC" problem with 1987/1988 suburbans they get loose at the point where all the "tubes" go through the flange that connects to the fuel tank. The attachment point is very weak for the mass hanging from it and then with the fuel going back and fort eventually take its toll. This however does not explain why the pump comes on when fuel pressure decays. All along the ignition switch its turned off.)Any ideas anyone ?
  • curley34curley34 Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Jimmy with 75K miles. When pulling a boat, braking was noticeably bad, and required downshifting the automatic transmission to supplement the stopping power. I redid the front and rear brakes & had the rotors turned and drums ground. Same issue. Garage says that these brakes are under-designed and oh well. Is there some other component that may need repair in the ABS system? I am stumped.
  • I have a 98' Chevy Blazer LS 2wd, 2 door. I have had nothing but major problems with this SUV and will never buy a Chevy again. Here is my list of problems beginning with 1 week after I brought my car home.
    ---My dome light would flicker on and off every time I went over a speed bump, my back windshield wiper didn't work, the driver side electric seat went out while the seat was in the most forward position and I had to drive home like that. Within the first year of ownership, I had to get all new spark plugs and fuel injectors. The car just stalls out when I drive over freeway bumps and I have to pull over, stop the car and restart it. My altinator died within a year and a half and left me stranded. The factory installed alarm has died now and they have no idea how to fix it. The passenger seat handle broke off. The windshield wipers go on perodically by themselves and then when I do use them they won't go off. There are other little problems as well.

    I have contacted the Chevy Corporate offices and they apologized but they will not even pay for a rental car for me while my car is in the shop anymore even though I bought the 5 year extended warranty. I warn everyone out there, DO NOT BUY THIS CAR!!!!! It has been a living hell for me!

    Kate
  • robbmdrobbmd Posts: 3
    I have a '97 Blazer with a rusty transmission fill tube and some rust on the trans dipstick... Has anyone out there ever heard of this problem?? HELP!

    Also, does anyone know what the service requirements for Blazer transmissions are??? Has anyone ever had their trans serviced?

    Any info on this topic would be great!!!
  • 95 blazer. Lots of brake problems, but everyone had those. I took it in for a 60K mile check up. I was having the starting problem mentioned in an earlier post (153?). $1400 later, they replaced a leaking battery, corroded cables, broken radiator resevoir ($50 for a plastic bucket?), and a new radiator. I had the "mississippi mud" problem. And guess what! After the tune up, it still doesn't start right! I'm afraid to take it in because they'll hit me for another $800. I was going to keep it another year or two but now I'm going to dump it ASAP. I'M NEVER BUYING ANOTHER GM CAR AGAIN (And I work for them!)
  • nbsmilarnbsmilar Posts: 3
    To: jmaxe
    I have a similar popping sound or clunk when I am turning the wheel in a parking situation. What advise did the service bulletin give for this problem? I have a '97 blazer and maybe the problem is simialr to your 2000 Jimmy.
  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 198
    Nbsmilar,
    Bulletin had no detail so I called my service mgr. He said the sound may occur when the wheel is turned all the way to the steering stop. No fix needed, just ask that the steering stop be greased during next service and the sound should stop(until it needs grease again).
    Maybe someone else out there has a different take on this.
  • gbondgbond Posts: 5
    i had a similar problem with my 99 chevy blazer.
    the popping sound was accompanied by a concussion sent thru the whole chassis from the front end. it would pop usually when i was backing out of a parking space & occurred when the wheels were turned hard to either side. the symptoms were serious enough that i do not see how one could possibly eleviate it with grease. unfortunately, i was never able to diagnose the problem and apply an appropriate solution.

    i believe the problem began after a shoddy f.e. alignment which left my steering wheel off-center. shortly thereafter, i returned to the shop and had the alignment corrected, which re-centered my steering wheel, and the popping sound disappeared. all is well now.

    perhaps this can help you reach a conclusion about your problem.
  • I had similar on a 96 Jetta while backing up turning (out of driveway, for instance).

    I thought maybe it was CV joints. Turned out it was bad wheel bearings and axle.
  • gbondgbond Posts: 5
    i have the same prob. sometimes, at the longest delay setting, the wipers will engage at regular speed. adjusting the delay makes little difference. other times, while set on delay, the wipers will come on for 3-4 strokes, wait, then come on for a series of single strokes, then a set of 3, ...

    has anybody determined the fix?

    thanks
  • gbondgbond Posts: 5
    my 99 blazer with 50k has developed leaks around the crimped end fittings on the oil cooler hoses. the most apparent leak is on the lower hose from the radiator to the remote filter unit. however, a leak also appears to have developed in a hose from the unit to the engine.

    i will give the 800# a try too.

    this issue clearly seems to be one of the most popular on this site.
  • nbsmilarnbsmilar Posts: 3
    Thanks for all the quick responses and comments on the popping noise, hopefully that will help the mechanics trouble-shoot.
    Now let me try and air another problem that deals with my wonderful transmission in my '97 blazer (56k miles).
    Symptoms: After 30 minutes of highway driving my transmission will slam from 1st gear to second gear. If I turn the car off for 5 seconds and then restart, it will go back to shifting smoothly. Has anyone had a similar experience?
  • Well, can't help you with the popping sound, but I know the fix for the transmission slam. See Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy topic in this SUV forum, responses 60, 72, and 73. I have explained it, including a price breakdown, in there.
  • bhillebhille Posts: 3
    I've had intermittent problems with my wipers on my new 2001 Jimmy. After using the wipers when I turn the truck on the wiper will go half way up the window and stop. You can turn on the wipers and the function normally. Turn the wipers off again and they return half way up the window. If you turn the truck off then restart it, the wipers will return to normal. I thought it was strange but not a big deal. Then while using them the other day, they were going up and down then started only going up half way and back down. Then as strangely as it started that, it went away and started working again. Anyone else experience this? Any have a fix? My dealer just looks at me like I'm stupid.

    Thanks,

    Brian
  • tkostkos Posts: 4
    Well nbsmilar we appear to have the same issues. I too experienced the popping sound end of last year on my 1999 Blazer. (which did get solved by getting the front end greased) About 3months ago I started to experience the transmission slam but only when I travel longer distances (40-50 miles one way) which I still have not gotten resolved. Let me tell you what you are in for next! About 5weeks ago I started losing the charge on my battery from out of the blue. I would get in the vehicle and turn it over to experience a clicking sound. Now I have found a way to get the vehicle to start by letting it click several times, turn the key off, and then back on and it will turn over. Well two weeks ago when going through my little ritual my back hatch popped open. (Which as I think back, when it didn't start, I had opened my hatch.) So I got out closed it and went through the ritual again, it started. I made it a habit to open the hatch with the vehicle running or made sure I started it right away after closing it and let it run to charge up the battery. Last night I open the hatch and closed it, got side tracked and never went back to start it. Yep you guessed it, I'm stuck. Battery is charging as we speak!

    I am so disgusted! First, it's a lease and I only have 4 months left. Second, the problems started at 36,200 miles. Lastly, I had a 1997 Blazer which I loved and had no problems with at all. This one has been nothing but trouble from the beginning...nothing major just all minor issues but still.

    Anyway, just thought I'd let you take a peak into your possible future! Good Luck!
  • nbsmilarnbsmilar Posts: 3
    - I'll try the greasing route and see if that alleviates the problem with the front end.
    - From previous posts it looks unamious that the transmission slam after highway driving is due to a faulty valve body. Looks like this problem can be traced to 1997 to 1999 vehicles. My symptoms first occurred at 46k miles, now I've got 56K miles and will have the dealership fix next month at my expense.
    - Sorry to hear about your battery fiasco, hope it's not contagious.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    I just had the line replaced from the remote oil filter adapter (the line from the adapter to cooler was replaced few months ago) to the engine, under a GM good faith repair (truck has 45k miles and no warranty left). I called the auto BBB to complain and GM contacted me. I was too late for the auto BBB (you have to be in manufacture warranty when you submit complaint), but GM offered to fix it anyway. I was shocked.


    I think we all should complain to NHTSA,


    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/ivoq/default.htm


    This is a safety problem. If the hose breaks and engine locks up in a intersection someone could get killed. It is also a fire hazzard. Not to mention what all this leaking oil does to earth! This may force a recall.

  • goochipatgoochipat Posts: 2
    recently i washed my 98 chevy blazer 4-door 2wd i even washed the underbody with light water. but is this bad to do or what???? and when the chevy blazer says (2wd) does it run on to 2 wheels, or is it a (rwd) meaning it runs on one wheel. any answers will be appreciated!!
  • amadeus131amadeus131 Posts: 43
    Well, it's been about two years since I've last posted, when I bought my '99 2-door 4WD Blazer. I loved it unconditionally until about 3 weeks ago. But I just read all 200+ posts in this thread and feel like a hypochondriac: "I've got that ... I've got that ... I've got that...."

    At about 36300 miles I noticed that the truck would not shift into either permanent 4WD or the Autotrac system. I got the earliest possible appointment, by which time I had 36900 miles. You guessed it, the battery had failed, and spectacularly. One of the terminals had corroded and acid had leaked all over several key 4WD system components (I can get the work order and list them if anyone's interested). I had suspected nothing because the truck otherwise drove fine. $730 later, I wrote a fiery letter to GM, but am expecting nothing. My repairman said it was a "maintenance issue", meaning presumably that it's my fault. I'd be willing to concede this, but how often does a battery fail like this within 2.5 years of purchase when the vehicle has otherwise been well maintained?

    The door hinge problems sound familiar too; the swinging spare tire carrier is the same. Besides some other minor things (my gas gauge is also messed up, but happily the other way around -- when full it registers 7/8), not much else to complain about ... yet.

    I was going to bring it back to the dealer in a few days as the 4WD system still wasn't working perfectly, though today it suddenly worked fine. Now at least after reading this thread, I have some ideas for some other things for them to check, such as the brakes.

    I was hoping to keep this truck for at least 5 years, but now it seems that if I get another year out of it (until next summer), I'll be doing well. I am investigating smaller SUVs such as the Tracker and CR-V, as I have no children and would like better gas mileage.

    It is good to be back again, though I wish it could be with more glowing reports of this vehicle.
  • tkostkos Posts: 4
    Well first off, I thought my battery issues were resolved on Friday. I removed old and replaced with a new one. Got in, said a little prayer and cranked her over. What do you know, it started! Drove like a champ running around town on Saturday. Sunday morning I got in, started it, backed out of the driveway to have it stall! It stalled 7 times getting back into the garage (my driveway is NOT very long!) So we are back to square one. Interestingly enough, I opened the back hatch on Saturday to unload supplies. There has got to be a tie in but we can't find it! We checked the fuses and such tied to it and found nothing. It's frustrating!

    I had forgotten to mention my 4WD not engaging in my previous message. I read Amadeus131 and it mention corrosion getting on to 4WD parts. I did have some corrosion, I'll have to check that out.

    Anyway, if anyone has had similar problems with stalling or dead battery and has traced to the back hatch that might be able to give me a heads up where I need to look for the problem, let me know. I want to get her fixed up enough to turn her in. Just got a letter from GM allowing me early release from my lease with no penalty. The catch, buy another GM product. Judging by the track here, it certainly won't be a Blazer.
  • blaze96blaze96 Posts: 2
    I purchased a 96 blazer LT 4wd w/36,000 about two years ago it no has 62,000 and I haven't had any problems whatsoever. After reading these posts I've come to the conclusion that its just a matter of time before something goes wrong. I'd like to know if anyone has had the fluid replaced in the transaxle and or differential as routine maintenance. I am considering having this service done but before i shell out the bucks I'd like to know if its worth it.
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