Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Anyone have any advice for me?
Thanks,
Joe
99 with 44K miles....
I have owned mine since February of 2000. Below list shows the problems that I have encountered so far:
1. left front pinion seal: replaced twice
warranty repairs.
2. fuel sending unit-warranty repair
3. fuel gauge-warranty repair
4. oil cooler lines: replaced both lines twice
warranty repair first time,
second time out of pocket $$
5. intake manifold gasket replaced-out of warranty
6. dead battery: warranty repair
This is all that I can remember at this time. I am sure that if I think hard enough that I will remember additional things that I have had to get fixed. The last repair occurred last week when I needed the oil cooler lines replaced for the second time within 18 months. There is a 12 month warranty on GM parts so I was forced to pay for the second round of replacement lines. This is the BIGGEST piece of American made junk ever created. Please stay away from this vehicle if you are thinking about a purchase. My personal opinion is that if you haven't had any of these problems so far; you will at some time in the future.
Look at the accelerator cable connector at the throttle body on top of the motor, you will see the lever that you can move with your finger as if you wanted to rev the motor while standing by the engine. It seems to have a magnetic connection where that lever touches the mechanical stop, that magnetic connection made the lever "sticky". I put a piece of electrical tape over the stop so it was no longer a metal/metal contact, now I don't sometimes "jump" out of a parking place like it used to want to do
Hope this helps
Rando
You are leak testing the heater core every time to run the vehicle up to normal operating temperature and pressure. Are you losing engine coolant?
Any comments would be appreciated.
tomgregory@lisco.com
For drum brakes there is an adjuster that keeps the shoes out near the surface of the drum to compensate for wear of the brake shoe. There usually is a small oval cut out behind the brake housing that has a rubber plug in it. A special bent sdcrew driver type tool is used to back the adjuster off which brings the shoes in toward the axle and then the drum will slide off.
The parking brake caliper is only a partial ring of very thin brake material and your parking brake mechanism only bends it out at the end of the "c"-shape. If it has ever been accidentally left engaged and you drove off (which is easy to do because they don't grab very well) they are toast...literally...and will need to be replaced.
Mine were replaced under warranty, My parking brakes did not work when I picked up the vehicle so I took it to Chev...they were clearly (visibly) overheated and did not function at all. Someone probably didn't realize they were on during one of the first test drives and there they went.
The Chev mechanic told me that the retract mechanism had therefore locked up (overheated in the extended position) and therefore were locked into a groove in that mini-hub...whole rotor assembly had to be replaced...under warranty luckily. If that is the case for you, you may want to check with Chev for any hints how to get the rotor off, There is no opening on the back side to mechanically retract that parking brake caliper..like I said ....design leaves ALOT to be desired.
Possibly may be so expensive you may just have to replace the pads and go with it as is, next time it is up for replacement then replace the whole thing, frequently the rotor cannot be resurfaced twice anyway.
Good luck.
Rando
Has anyone had to replace fuse to turning signals
for 97 Chevy Blazer. Was told it was under the dash. Almost tore the car apart looking for it. Will appreciate any advice to the location.
The alternator went out at 60000 miles ($350). The Air Compressor went out at 75000 miles ($850). Heater coil out last month ($450). Today, the gas intake seal leaking coolant fluid ($350). The transmission shifted hard out of 1st gear after 3 months. Brought the vehicle in twice, GM says it shifts perfect. So I drive it like that for 4 years like that. Finally brought it in because of the SES light on. After another $800 for 3 parts for other problems, the transmission shifts perfect. I have had to change the battery every 12 months for 4 years. No questions asked. The current battery is 14 months old. It could go any day now. At 65 mph and above, it has a very annoying front to back shake. Balanced tires, shocks and new tires. Never got any better. There is more, but that is all I can think of at this time.
Bottom line, this is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. About the only good thing I can say about this vehicle is the engine has lots of power. Other than that, nothing. This was my first GM product. I will not buy another.
They should change the commercial to:
"Like a Creampuff"
Ron
Since we are on the subject of the 4T60-E, I've discovered another phenomenom. Even with the new valve body, when the tranny is hot, the 1>2 upshift at light to part-throttle is what GM calls a "double bump" (cold and WOT shifts are firm). I'm going in next week to have the tranny tore into and have the servo rod that controls the shift "adjusted", according to my service advisor, which should firm up the shift (fingers crossed).
Service Items Repaired Reason Special Comments
2/16/95 Picked up Jimmy 00002.9 New truck
5/15/95 Recall- Crankshaft sensor 03934 Recall
5/15/95 Replaced CMSL 03934 Warranty
6/95 1st. Repair of water leak 04000 Warranty
6/95 2nd repair leak replaced gasket on right rear door 04500 Warranty
9/8/95 Replaced all wiper arms 09576 Pealing paint on arms Warranty
1/23/96 Replaced front braked & cut rotors 15007 maint.
11/5/96 New battery 23338 Warranty
11/10/96 New front brakes 23520 Maint
7/13/97 New front brakes 32137 6th problem
10/24/97 Replaced torque converter & pump 35045 8th. Problem
11/7/97 Replaced oil lines to filter, fuel tank recall 35600 9th problem, fuel tank recall
4/9/98 New front brakes & calipers 41577 10 th problem
4/14/98 New rear brakes + Repaired brake light switch 41865 11th Problem
7/18/98 New right caliper 45434 Leak of brake fluid from caliper
8/22/98 New left front door elect. Lock 46911 Did not open door
1/10/99 Front brakes, rotated tires 52508 12 th problem fast brake pad wear
4/17/99 New shift cable 56809 Cable broke could not shift transmission
6/12/99 New front brakes, rotated tires 59221 13 th problem- fast brake pad wear
6/15/99 New front rotors 59290 14th problem- rotors scorched & grooved
7/12/99 Windshield washer pulse control 60175 15th. Problem Recall
7/22/99 Replace catalytic converter 60443 16th. Problem Warranty work
10/31/99 new front brake pads, new left front caliper 65440 17th. Problem
10/31/99 New Battery+ Found vanity light in right sun visor has been on for four years!! 65455 18th. Problem
12/30/99 ABS ROM Chip + NYS Inspection 66780 19th Problem recall & inspection
for one of the pieces, my gm parts shop provided me with part no. 15760333, which is the lines btwn the radiator/oil cooler and filter housing.
the part is identified as a "replacement part" in the gm inventory, replacing original part no. 15726903. (apparently the original part is no longer manufactured?).
the original design featured on the upper hose a metal tube fitting with a 90 deg angle and short length to fit into the quick-release fitting in the radiator/oil cooler.
the replacement part, in contrast, is noticeably different from the original in that this metal tube features, from its end, a longer length before arcing into a gradual downward curve as it straightens and connects to the rubber hose segment.
the original design seemed to assure that this oil hose fitting would plug into the radiator/oil cooler quick-release fitting with nearly no room to spare between the radiator/oil cooler and air box.
i haven't applied the new part yet, but just after eyeing the application, it appears there is no way this new-styled upper oil cooler line fitting is going to fit in the space available btwn the upper quick release fitting and the air box. the length of tube before it bends downward is so long that it appears it will stick out far beyond the limit imposed by the position of the air box.
does anybody have experience with this new "replacement" part?
is it going to work or does the air box need to be re-positioned?
many thanks,
gregg
Question to all: has anyone had to replace the lines from the engine to the filter housing? It looks like the front differential has to be removed? Not a typical DIY.
1) indrgb: undoubtedly, the quality of the replacement part appears to fall far short of the orig.
as you point out, i suspected that the fittings would probably not fit as securely as the orig. the replacement part simply looks cheap.
2) based on suchsimon's experience i will leave that part of the job to the dealer. with the wheel off, i thought i might be able to devise some method by which to reach that bolt. the front diff appears to make it nearly impossible to reach, but i thought maybe, just maybe there might be a way. i guess i won't waste more time considering it.
Our current problem is drving my crazy. We changed all four tires with about 49,000 miles on them. Up until then the truck ran very smoothly on the highway. Now it vibrates very noticibly at 65mph and higher.
The tires were bought at Goodyear and I brought the Blazer back twice. Each time they put four new tires on it. I'm sure they really did because they were different models. Goodyear says it's not the tires.
I brought it to Sears to have the tires rebalanced and they said that we need new idle arms and new upper and lower ball joints. I wasn't comfortable with Sears doing that work so I brought it to the Chevy dealer who replaced both lower ball joints for $500. It still shakes. Should we do the trial and error routine and keep paying for things that don't help?
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/central2.cfm
I wish I made the post before they replaced the lower ball joints. Hopefully Chevy will make good on them.
I had the ball joints replaced under 36/36, since they went at 30k miles. Never had a car/truck do that before. I think everyone should complain to NHTSA on ALL our items. GM should be forced to recall most of this junk.
My engine is again (with 60k) making a noise at idle that sounds like the belt tensioner. It was replaced under warranty at 30k also. It now needs replacing again. My problem is I can't tell what needs replacing. Is it the idler arm, the idler arm wheel, or the separate idler wheel?
Not to feel left out, here is what was replaced on my Blazer, all in the first 36/36! The oil cooler lines (both), power steering pump, both lower ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, battery, heater core, radio, radio speaker, drivers upper door hinge, both rear rotors, CV joint boot, tailgate light switch. I also had to replace the exhaust donuts my self at 50k. What a job that it is.
I can feel that American quality! The worst part is that the plastic interior rattles so much you want to hate this SUV when driving too. I want to trade it but the poor resale value makes it nearly impossible. I bet GM is laughing at all of us.
SS.
Component: SUSPENSION:INDEPENDENT FRONT CONTROL ARM UPPER:BALL JOINT
Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Year: 1997 Make: CHEVROLET TRUCK Model: BLAZER Recall Date: 01/07/2002
Type of Report: Vehicle
Potential Number of Units Affected:
Manufactured: / - /
Defect Summary:
THIS IS NOT A SAFETY RECALL IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SAFETY ACT. HOWEVER, IT IS DEEMED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN BY THE AGENCY. VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: 1996-1997 4-WHEEL DRIVE CHEVROLET BLAZER, GMC JIMMY, AND OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES. SOME OWNERS HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR REPLACEMENT OF THE UPPER BALL JOINTS THAT HAVE SEPARATED. GM IS PROVIDING A SPECIAL POLICY TO THESE OWNERS TO COVER UPPER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT IF THE CUSTOMER FOLLOWED THE RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR THE CHASSIS LUBRICATION AND THE VEHICLE STILL REQUIRED THE REPLACEMENT OF THE UPPER BALL JOINTS DUE TO SEPARATION. Consequence Summary:
THIS COULD CAUSE A LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. Corrective Summary:
THIS SPECIAL POLICY IS FOR A PERIOD OF 8 YEARS OR 100,000 MILES, WHICHEVER OCCURS FIRST, FROM THE DATE THE VHEICLE WAS ORIGINALLY PLACED IN SERVICE, REGARDLESS OF OWNERSHIP. THE UPPER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT, DUE TO SEPARATION, WILL BE MADE AT NO CHARGE TO THE CUSTOMER DURING THIS PERIOD.
Check to order research. Submit below.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01V200000
Component: SUSPENSION:INDEPENDENT FRONT CONTROL ARM UPPER:BALL JOINT
Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Year: 1997 Make: CHEVROLET TRUCK Model: BLAZER Recall Date: 07/02/2001
Type of Report: Vehicle
Potential Number of Units Affected: 48600
Manufactured: / - /
Defect Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, WEST VIRGINIA, AND WISCONSIN, AND IN THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. FAILURE OF AN UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY COULD OCCUR DUE TO CORROSION. Consequence Summary:
THIS CAN RESULT IN IMPAIRED STEERING OR STEERING LOSS, OR A PARTIAL OR COMPLETE COLLAPSE OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. Corrective Summary:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE BOTH UPPER BALL JOINTS.
Unless... Have you confirmed you fill 15-20 gallons when it reads empty? Maybe the fuel sending unit is wacked?
Just some ideas to ponder...
Dear GM,
I am enclosing these documents in reference to GM Campaign Bulletin 01048 and letter G01049. I own a ?97 GMC Jimmy SLT that had the upper right ball joint fail suddenly at less than 60k miles and in it?s sixth year on the road. This destroyed the cast wheel as well, when an upper joint mounting bolt gouged a groove in the inside of the wheel and the tire went flat.
Not knowing at the time that this was common to the vehicle and having been disappointed in the past with my local GMC dealer, I had the truck towed to a local CarX dealership. I had all four ball joints replaced since the other upper had play and as long as it was up on the rack I might as well get it over with. I obtained a salvage yard replacement wheel for $50 (the tire was found to be ok and reused) and cleaned it up. I did not have the alignment done at CarX because they didn?t have that service available and I couldn?t afford it then anyway.
I found out about Bulletin 01048 from a friend and called GM who had me bring it to my local dealer- Lemay Pontiac/GMC, Kenosha, WI (262) 694-1500. They told me that my Jimmy was built at a different plant with ball joints from a different supplier than referenced by the Campaign, and didn?t qualify. While being very polite they said in effect, ?What do you want from us? You come in here with aftermarket (Moog brand) parts on your car installed by someone else and expect money?? GM said the same thing, reference #05642894. Armed with this knowledge that I was on my own, I had the alignment done at Tires Plus later on. I also had the idler and pittman arm done at that time (Moog, again). At least the tie rod ends were still good.
Folks, I am not trying to make a dime off of General Motors.
This vehicle has been a money pit like nothing I have ever owned in 30 years of driving. I put over $3000 dollars into it in the last year or so. Even though the transmission was removed and rebuilt by the dealer under warranty at 28k miles, it failed last February to the tune of $1400 when the shaft for the reverse planetary gears snapped off of the ?basket?. (I never towed anything heavier than an 800lb jet ski and have never had another vehicle need tranny repairs.) I?ve replaced 2 of the 4 oxygen sensors at my own cost. I replaced the serpentine tensioner. This is in addition to normal preventative maintenance like shocks, spark plug harness, and the serpentine itself. The ?Service Engine Soon? light comes on more than the dome light! (It?s on again now.) Even now there are things I?ve given up on because of the cost to repair them (Dealer says no open Campaigns, but I?ve found plenty of other occurrences on Edmunds.com SUV site.) The gas gauge stops working below ½ tank. The wipers don?t always come on unless you use the ?mist? paddle as you hit a bump.
I am hoping GM will see their way clear to reimburse me for at least the cost of the upper ball joints, wheel alignment and the replacement rim.
I am enclosing copies, as I need the originals for warranty purposes. I can send them later if it is the only thing preventing a reimbursement, but I have paid dearly for those receipts and at least I know I have a warranty with those merchants while I wait like a beggar in front of GM. I have also enclosed a copy of the letter I sent to my local dealer asking to be taken off their mailing list after receiving a card inviting me in for scheduled 60K service. I do not have an axe to grind with them and they have always been politely businesslike, but they have also been rather useless to me in my first GM ownership experience. Thank you for any consideration.
(end of letter)
I got a call from them today and the rep explained that they can't even make a determination IF I am eligable for a dime without the original work orders, proof of registration to me at the time, and proof of payment. I don't have a problem prooving I own it and did at the time. I sure don't have the credit card receipt after all these months, and they don't need the originals until they are ready to cut a check. I do have a picture of the car sitting outside CarX with the wheel collapsed , and since I'm still driving it now I think we can assume the front end didn't fix itself for free. All I wanted was to have the joints themselves covered, a lousy $50 for the $400+ wheel and $49.99 for the alignment. I asked her to please throw my file out, they win. That's all they want anyway, to make a enough people walk away rather than jump through all the hoops. Even knowing that, it isn't worth it to go through any more grief over this piece of junk vehicle with only 63k miles on it. They can go to hell if they think I will ever buy another GM product.
Glenn Woods
I sure don't have the credit card receipt after all these months...
I am sure that your credit card company would be happy to provide you with a copy of the receipt. All it takes is a quick phone call.
tidester
Host
SUVs
Too bad for them you've had the final word!
tidester
Host
SUVs
I appreciate all of your assistance.
Ron
zr2rando, when you said the whole rotor assembly, what did you mean by that? just the one piece - brake rotor, or including the parking brake assembly too, the whole hub assembly?
thanks
Just crossed over 74,000 miles, the truck
still looks clean and sounds like the day
I bought.
If all I did was road driving I probably
would have traded it in some time ago. But
I take it off road for serious duty (hunting
and camping) every so often and I fall in
love with my truck all over again. I all too
often get the truck into spots that I have no
business putting it into, I am impressed that
it has pulled itself out of my messes each
and every time.
Since I last posted (about two years ago)
I have had to replace the driver side window
motor, had the vent controller box replaced,
and put on a new set of brake pads. I also
kept up with the usual maintenance and had
the wiper motor recall and ABS controller
recall taken care of - no problems before
or after that work.
the minidrum had been grooved and would have been severely turned as well,,
really a crappy design!
If that is your problem, and it sounds like it is, I would insist that Chev pay for it due to a design problem,,,,they don't even work right when they are working right!
Good luck, let us know what happens
Rando