By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
The car had been in an accident and had minor damage in the left front fender and has been repaired - I spoke with the shop who did the repair and saw pictures before.
The guy who has it did not take care of the inside very well, it's dirty, not tears or stains or cig burns - just needs to be shampood, and cleaned. There are also some minor irritations that can easily be fixed.
Screw loose in dash, rattle in back window because of loose connection, recharge the air, etc.
What should I particularly look at?
What should I be aware of that would make me sorry I bought it!?
Affected vehicles: S10, Sonoma, Jimmy, Blazer and Bravada
Redesigned engine oil cooler lines P/N 15760333 and 15760334 replace the old parts on 4WD utility and pickup trucks, and P/N 15757070 replaces the
lines on 2WD vehicles. Installation on 1996 T pickup and utility vehicles require that the lip of the rubber baffle attached to the radiator support be trimmed to fit.
A grille redesign eliminated the baffle in 1998 models. New seals come with the new lines. However, technicians must order and install new clips to hold the lines into the connector at the radiator. New clips are available in a bag of ten
under P/N 15724727.
Before I go back and complain just wondering if anyone else has this problem? The passenger side is rock steady...
Thx in advance.
Lab.
I checked the bump stop where the mechanism rests at idle...it seems to be a magnetic metal to metal contact..thus the "sticky" feeling.
I just put a wrap of black electrician tape over the magnetic bump stop and now I don't have that "sticky" throttle any more.
see ya
I have a 99 zr2 pickup, rather than a blazer, but probably the same throttle setup.
zr2rando: wrapping the tape at the stop also causes the throttle plate not to close as much. The carbon on the edge of the throttle plate and the carbon rodge on the bore cause the plate to momentarily bind at full close, and thus you feel it in the pedal. If you are hesitant about removing the throttle body to clean it, spray Gumout (for throttle bodies) on a clean, soft cloth (non-linty), open the throttle plate, and rub off the carbon ridge. The front side is more difficult, as the "chin" on the throttle plate gets in the way. I would suggest a soft toothbrush to get at this area.
Hope this helps.
I spray throttlebody cleaner in there periodically to make sure there are no buildups of crud so I have never actually had a buildup that would interfere with plate movement, but if there was a ridge, you're right,it would make it feel "sticky" too. Good idea to clean that area every now and then.
see y'all
Rando
98 Jimmy SLT - I had the drivers side mirror replaced by the dealer (under Ext. Warranty) due to what I think is heavy mirror shake...the glass will vibrate/shake/jitter when I am driving at speeds greater the 30 miles an hour....becomes worst on the hiway. Driver side mirror is rock steady.
Anyway....took it back to the dealer and they say it is "Within Normal operating specs"???
I was think of calling GM directly to open up a case and take it to another dealer for a second option.
Has anyone else experienced this issue??
Feedback is appreaciated!
Cheers
Rob.
I was wondering if anybody has had these problems:
There is a water gurgling sound coming from under the middle counsel. Any idea what that is?
Also, if there is any moisture on top of the vehicle like rain, snow, dew, it comes into the vehicle when the window is down. Never have had a problem like that with any other vehicle before.
I did and again do have the "mississippi sludge" problem, no heat, I believe the dealer had to flush something out in the past. Could this be why my air doesn't work either?
I bought this vehicle used in Nov of 2000 and I really do like it, other than the problems listed above. Any input to this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I had one instance where they had done some work on an intake manifold and when they plugged a vac line onto a fitting it had broken off right at the fitting and now caused a vac leak that affected the a/c vent controls, the vac line had a crease where it was bent and just gave when they removed and replaced it. One dealership never tightened the hose clamps on the rubber air intake hose at the intake manifold...it was sucking air right there instead of going through the filter and the MAF, I just had to tighten the hose clamp....made a huge difference.
If it is really a noticeable difference and you can't find any line/hose probs, you may have to call them and let them know that there is a difference now in the power/mpg loss and see just what all they actually did ....
I always have to ask,,,What was the last thing done before I noticed the problem???
Good luck
Rando
This sensor was RELOCATED on the '00.
Has anyone else had this problem on a '99 ???- if not listen with ignition on - loudest prior to first start of the day. Has anyone had this problem fixed ???
I took it on a 400+ mile round-trip this weekend and it's still pulling to the right. I live in the NW and a lot of roads are sloped to the right to allow for rainwater run-off, but I'm pretty sure this isn't the case here. I can drive on a road sloped to the left to allow for run-off and the truck will track straight so I have to think something else is up. But I'm a computer tech, not a mechanic so when it comes to cars my knowledge is limited.
Any idea? Suggestions? I'm bringing it back to the local dealer tomorrow to have them look at it again. I haven't gone back and looked through the archives of this thread yet, that's the next thing on my list. If anyone else knows of a thread that has discussed similar issues like this, I'd appreciate a head's up. Thanks.
May be time for brakes replaced anyway??
see ya
Rando
The GM rep. is still checking into this for me but I think I'm SOL.
I think this is a defect since I've looked at the newer Jimmy's and they have changed the mirror design. You think this would be a simple fix.
What I've done in the mean time is stuff some foam in the break-away part of the mirror...helped a bit but still shakes on the hiway.
I'l keep you posted on my results and im interested in what your dealer told you as well.
Thx
Rob.
We'll see. Thanks.
Bob
Sounds like a really cheap way to build the component to me, but I don't know. I would think if it is indeed built that way, the dealership would just rip the mirror off the plate and re-apply the glue or whatever the crap is called and stick the mirror back on. It may not be hard to do myself, but I'd probably break it worse. I didn't get an estimate for the dealership to fix it yet. I guess I'll just wait and see what happens with it. Don't know if this design applies to your Jimmy also or not.
Did GM ever actually tell you what the problem was? Or are they just aware of it?
Thanks,
Bob
Bob
Well to my surprize - GM customer service said there is a Service bulletin on the mirror shake.
The GM customer service rep. was going to call my dealer about it. I havent heard back from her yet but plan on calling her today for an update.
If this is the case - I'll post the info for all.
More to come......
Rob
For about a yr if you would have the truck (2000 4 door 4wd LT blazer) off and radio on for 10 min (sometimes less) the truck wouldnt start and the battery would have to be charged. This happened 4 times. Well a few days ago took it in to the local chevy dealer. Battery was found to have a bad cell. They replaced the battery free of charge and said it is covered for 5 yrs (wow). Truck only has 20K miles and will hit the 3 yr warranty this september. Other than this it has had no problems. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem.
Ryan
If you have extra $$$ laying around, the gel-cell Optima battery is the way to go.
So far so good with the new battery
I havent had any problems with the AC Delco in my silverado which has over 26K miles.
Depending on the severity, you'll need a complete system flush, all the way up to replacing the radiator and heater core, for starters.
I change the coolant every two years, just like the green stuff, and I've switched to Prestone Long-life coolant, which I haven't heard any complaints about (yet). The ONLY advantage I can see from running Dexcool is it is a non-silicate fluid, which is supposed to extend water pump bearing life. IMO, not worth it.
My latest annoyance is that my HVAC fan only works on the really high setting (4). When I turn the knob to any other setting, the fan stops. I checked the fuses, but they were fine, as I suspected. I live in Phoenix, where AC is a way of life, but I don't need it blasting all the time. Anyone have any ideas? I don't want to be charged for this if it's something I can fix myself.
One other problem is a rattle in the right side of my moonroof, when it's tilted open. Any ideas?
As a side note: In '97, I tested the 4Runner and wasn't impressed over-all, but always liked the stock ground clearance and reliability ratings. The GMC Jimmy seemed to have more of what I wanted for my money, especially more power, better 4WD system, and a pleasing interior. I ordered my '98 Jimmy that fall, and have had mixed feelings of loving it, while being annoyed at the quality. This latest aggravation has just made me even more anxious for the arrival of the '03 4Runner coming in September. If it's everything I've been reading about and more, I'm sold. I like the new Envoy/Trailblazer, and have $ on my GM card to put toward one, but where's the attention to the off-road enthusiast? Lower ground clearance than my Jimmy? Come on GM. I'm not spending that much for the H2, so they had better hurry up with the H3...
Anyway, thanks for any help anyone can offer. -TB
Unless you know how to find the bad resistors and replace them on a circuit board, I think you have to replace the particular board.
I'm a mechanical type but also do house hold electricals and generator stuff. Not the circuit board type.
It seems the green dot is not such a perfect indicator....what else is new huh?
see ya
Rando
Personally, I'm tired of little glitches. I had to take my truck back in for problems within a month of owning it, and I ordered it from the factory, so I had to wait 2 months as it was just to get it! It seemed like I had to take it back at least once a month for about a year! By the time my warrenty was up, I felt like there was no need to extend it, because everything beside the engine block and transmission was new.
I was glad to see GM reach the #3 spot in quality, third to Toyota and Honda of course, but I've got a sour taste in my mouth. I don't want to go through all that again. There's a reason Toyota is #1, and Honda is #2. The new Envoy and Trailblazer have a lot of standard stuff for your $, but not only am I leery, I'm pissed that GM ignored the needs of those of us who want a bad-[non-permissible content removed] truck with ground clearance and cool wheels, without having to spend another $3000 on a lift, wheels, and tires. Those trucks are already about $4000 more than my similarly equipped Jimmy, even at invoice!
Whoa, thanks for letting me rant! Anyway, it's nice to know I'm not alone. Look out Toyota, here I come! -TB
(By the way, the "mark" tab is to mark the page, not my name. No biggie, just thought you'd like to know.)