Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

tommc · December 2001

Thanks for comments on my Blazer idle speed. Can't really set the idle speed as the computer program controls this. If the 5.3 also idles this slow maybe this is the correct rpm. Be due for an oil change next month and I'll ask the dealer tech about this. This particular dealer has some people who seem to know something about cars.

abc246 · December 2001

My Blazer seems to idle around 550 rpms too, but runs fine at that speed. I suspect you have dirty fuel injectors. I would run injector cleaner through it for a few tanks.

firecadet613 · December 2001

I have a 1995 Chevrolet Blazer LT 4x4 4-Door. I'm driving last night and I notice the oil pressure gauge is reading only 40PSI. Thats funny I think to myself, its normally at 60-70PSI . Well then the oil pressure drops to 0, then back up to 40, and then 0 again. By the time it was hitting 0 for the second time I had already turned on to a side street & was just shutting her down. I pull off to the side, pop the hood, & get out to have a look. Well by the time I get out I notice about 3quarts of oil already on the ground. I pop the hood and I notice that my engine compartment (which was spotless previously) is covered in new engine oil. I look down and begin to see the oil drip out even more, starting to get onto my shoes. Well I hop back in and call Chevrolet Roadside Assistance. I get a tow, but now it's stuck at a dealership, I think it is the dreaded oil cooling lines.

Anyone have any advice for me?

Thanks,

Joe

mrswans · December 2001

I had a bad creak from the driver's door. The creak started after the dealer replaced the window regulator. After trying many things, I found it to be the bolts where it connects the front of the window frame in the front of the door. I put paper and plastic washers between the connection, but the creaking started back up in about 2 weeks time. I ended up giving the front window frame guide a very slight bend with a large pliers. It has been quite for over a month now.

abc246 · January 2002

My door is still has a creak. Where did you bend the front window guide? Did you bend the guide or the bracket? I have taken the front door panel off twice now for this noise. Do you have to remove the panel to do this?

mrchw · January 2002

anyone have an issue with a sticky accelerator? for the past few weeks it's been getting pretty bad, lurching out of parking spaces is getting a little dangerous!

99 with 44K miles....

ryanbab · January 2002

sounds like its the throttle body. Did you have it cleaned around 30K? Might be a good idea.

cliffwilson · January 2002

The Service Manual for the 4.3 liter V6 expects a scan tool idle reading of 650 RPM. This desired reading is with the engine at operating temperature, engine idling in closed loop (full computer control), closed throttle, accessories off, and transmission in park or neutral. The VCM (Vehicle Control Module) primarily maintains the engine's idle speed through postioning commands to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. A faulty IAC valve or a build-up of deposits on the valve's pintle can degrade idle performance. Since crankcase ventilation passes oil vapor into the intake air, the IAC valve and throttle plate are prone to the accumulation of deposits.

bieraugel · January 2002

To all of you thinking about purchasing a Chevrolet Blazer of the 1999 vintage: D O N' T...
I have owned mine since February of 2000. Below list shows the problems that I have encountered so far:
1. left front pinion seal: replaced twice
warranty repairs.
2. fuel sending unit-warranty repair
3. fuel gauge-warranty repair
4. oil cooler lines: replaced both lines twice
warranty repair first time,
second time out of pocket $$
5. intake manifold gasket replaced-out of warranty
6. dead battery: warranty repair

This is all that I can remember at this time. I am sure that if I think hard enough that I will remember additional things that I have had to get fixed. The last repair occurred last week when I needed the oil cooler lines replaced for the second time within 18 months. There is a 12 month warranty on GM parts so I was forced to pay for the second round of replacement lines. This is the BIGGEST piece of American made junk ever created. Please stay away from this vehicle if you are thinking about a purchase. My personal opinion is that if you haven't had any of these problems so far; you will at some time in the future.

indrgb · January 2002

I had a problem with my 96 Jimmy not delivering enough heat in the cabin. I think the problem started a couple of years ago. After changing the thermostat to no avail I decided it was time for the 5 year change of dexcool. I flushed out the cooling system and even took the heater hoses off the engine and flushed the heater core with a garden hose. I noticed a lot of slime and crud come out of the heater core. Now the heat works wonderful, but I notice a coolant smell anytime the heater is on. I can't find a leak anywhere. Is it possible that flushing the heater core "unplugged" some pin holes and now it is leaking enough to smell, but not enough to see on the floor? Is there any way to leak test the core without taking the dash apart?

abc246 · January 2002

Why did you need to have the intake manifold gasket replaced? Was it leaking coolant?

zr2rando · January 2002

I have a 99 S10 ZR2 P/U that also HAD a sticky accelerator..
Look at the accelerator cable connector at the throttle body on top of the motor, you will see the lever that you can move with your finger as if you wanted to rev the motor while standing by the engine. It seems to have a magnetic connection where that lever touches the mechanical stop, that magnetic connection made the lever "sticky". I put a piece of electrical tape over the stop so it was no longer a metal/metal contact, now I don't sometimes "jump" out of a parking place like it used to want to do
Hope this helps
Rando

heng · January 2002

As you suspect the heater core may have a leak.

You are leak testing the heater core every time to run the vehicle up to normal operating temperature and pressure. Are you losing engine coolant?

tgregory3 · January 2002

I have had my 99 Blazer for two years and the push buttons to change from (2HI) to (4HI) or (4LO) or (auto4WD).(4HI) only blinks and the light never stays solid --but it seems to be in (4HI)or (4LO) but it just keeps blinking(they will blink for as long as I pushed (4HI)or (4LO)-- until I push (2HI)again- and I'm back in (2HI). No other things wrong just the blinking for (4HI) or (4LO)when pushed.When I push the (auto4WD) button it will blink for a while then just go back to (2HI)by itself. They stop blinking when I push (2HI) and its solid and I'm in (2HI)..
Any comments would be appreciated.
tomgregory@lisco.com

indrgb · January 2002

Thanks for the feedback. I have since confirmed that the heater core is leaking and have an appointment to have it replaced. The best price I could find was $420. They all say it is a long and difficult procedure because the dash has to be removed. I have talked to several mechanics who say the problem is the GM dexcool. After surfing the net looking for dexcool I tend to agree there are some issues here. I complained to my GMC dealer, but he could only provide sympathy. I have a suggestion for everyone with GM vehicles about 96 and later: don't wait for 5 years to flush the cooling system. I suggest 2-3.

heng · January 2002

As I emailed to tgregory3, his encoder needs to be replaced

revker · January 2002

Hello all. I've got 2 '98 Blazers, 4x4 LS and LT. I pull a 4500lb boat w/trailer. both trucks have just about 70K miles. I am just changing the brake pads for the first time since owning it. problem i'm having is that i can't take off the rear brake rotor. the brake rotor has a score and i'd like to have it resurfaced at autozone. i've got 4 wheel disc brakes. the rear brake rotor is the drum type. i just can't pull it off like the ones in the front. i'm thinking maybe the parking brake is holding it. i tried tapping it with a mallet lightly but it's the same thing. is there something i'missed? calipers are already off the hub. anyone have done this before? any input on this matter is greatly appreciated. thanks.

cliffwilson · January 2002

Since you have 70K miles on the vehicle and this is the first time you are attempting to remove the rear rotors, I suspect your primary problem is adhesion between the rotor and axle flange mating areas. Debris and rust will create a seal between the mating surfaces. I suggest you apply a bead of penetrating oil to the center hub area of the rotor where it contacts the axle flange. Careful tapping of the area with a small hammer to create a vibration wave should dislodge the adhesion (no heavy pounding; the vibration not brute force is the key - the rotor metal is brittle at certain points). Slowly turn the rotor as you pull it from the axle flange. This should also help to break the bond between the rotor and the flange. So that nothing is overlooked, I assume you have removed the any sheet metal retainers on the wheel lugs. These are installed at the factory and must be clipped off before you can remove the rotor. Also, I assume the parking brake is fully disengaged. Since you use your vehicle for towing, I would be extra careful to be sure the score in your rotor can be removed by the brake lathe without cutting off an excessive amount of the rotor width. While there is a minimum width specification, I would not want to get to that point and rely on it for demanding brake service. As a point of precaution, do not attempt to pry the rotor from the flange. It can damage the rotor beyond repair. Good luck!

revker · January 2002

thanks for the detailed input. i will try doing that tonight. hopefully i'll succeed. i'll use WD-40 since i've got that in the garage. what you're saying makes sense because i can rattle the rotor in and out by about 8th of an inch. it seems like something is holding it from just sliding out. i'll use a hammer instead of a mallet this time to create a vibration. any idea what would be my other option if the rotor still won't budge? thanks again!

heng · January 2002

Since you can move the drum about an 1/8 then it is a rim of corrosion holding it on.

For drum brakes there is an adjuster that keeps the shoes out near the surface of the drum to compensate for wear of the brake shoe. There usually is a small oval cut out behind the brake housing that has a rubber plug in it. A special bent sdcrew driver type tool is used to back the adjuster off which brings the shoes in toward the axle and then the drum will slide off.

zr2rando · January 2002

Like CLIFFWILLSON said those lug clips are put on at the factory as an assembly aid and need to be cut off before you can get the rotor off. The design on those rear disk brakes leaves a lot to be desired...The drum portion is nothing like normal drum brakes.
The parking brake caliper is only a partial ring of very thin brake material and your parking brake mechanism only bends it out at the end of the "c"-shape. If it has ever been accidentally left engaged and you drove off (which is easy to do because they don't grab very well) they are toast...literally...and will need to be replaced.
Mine were replaced under warranty, My parking brakes did not work when I picked up the vehicle so I took it to Chev...they were clearly (visibly) overheated and did not function at all. Someone probably didn't realize they were on during one of the first test drives and there they went.
The Chev mechanic told me that the retract mechanism had therefore locked up (overheated in the extended position) and therefore were locked into a groove in that mini-hub...whole rotor assembly had to be replaced...under warranty luckily. If that is the case for you, you may want to check with Chev for any hints how to get the rotor off, There is no opening on the back side to mechanically retract that parking brake caliper..like I said ....design leaves ALOT to be desired.
Possibly may be so expensive you may just have to replace the pads and go with it as is, next time it is up for replacement then replace the whole thing, frequently the rotor cannot be resurfaced twice anyway.
Good luck.
Rando

ibc552001 · January 2002

HELP!
Has anyone had to replace fuse to turning signals
for 97 Chevy Blazer. Was told it was under the dash. Almost tore the car apart looking for it. Will appreciate any advice to the location.

astrolann1 · January 2002

I have a 99' Blazer, the fuses are on the left side of the dash, between the dash and the door. There is a little door there, you turn knob clock wise and it will open. There is a 2nd. fuse box under the hood, driver side halve way between the front and the windsheld. Good luck, hope I helped.

cliffwilson · January 2002

Rather than a fuse, I believe you are interested in replacing the turn signal/hazard light flasher. It is located behind the glove compartment. You need to open your glove compartment, depress the clip at the top of the backside of the compartment. The unit will slip forward and reveal the flasher assembly. It is a small square shaped component that plugs into an electrical socket and is further held in place by a plastic snap tab around the outside. If you still get a clicking noise from the flasher, engage your signal light and the clicking noise will guide you to the flasher once you have the glove comparment moved out of the way.

beejoo · January 2002

I have a 1996 4dr LS Blazer with 145,000 miles. The list is long. Brakes go out every 30,000 to 35,000 miles @ $300 per pop. After the 3rd set of GM brake pads I went to PepBoys and put on their Lifetime pads for $60 and have 45000 miles on them. Still have not changed them.

The alternator went out at 60000 miles ($350). The Air Compressor went out at 75000 miles ($850). Heater coil out last month ($450). Today, the gas intake seal leaking coolant fluid ($350). The transmission shifted hard out of 1st gear after 3 months. Brought the vehicle in twice, GM says it shifts perfect. So I drive it like that for 4 years like that. Finally brought it in because of the SES light on. After another $800 for 3 parts for other problems, the transmission shifts perfect. I have had to change the battery every 12 months for 4 years. No questions asked. The current battery is 14 months old. It could go any day now. At 65 mph and above, it has a very annoying front to back shake. Balanced tires, shocks and new tires. Never got any better. There is more, but that is all I can think of at this time.

Bottom line, this is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. About the only good thing I can say about this vehicle is the engine has lots of power. Other than that, nothing. This was my first GM product. I will not buy another.

rangerron7 · January 2002

Your story sounds an awfull like my 95 that I got rid of. The final straw was when I needed a new fuel pump at 47K (around a $300 repair).
They should change the commercial to:
"Like a Creampuff"
Ron

indrgb · January 2002

It's nice to know there are so many out there who can feel my pain. I have a 96 Jimmy with all the problems in the last two messages except for the alternator, which will probably go out tomorrow. I have also had other problems such as the infamous leaking oil cooler lines. That was the least expensive because a friend of a fiend got them for me at a dealer for about 30 bucks. I have always had good luck with GM vehicles until now. For those who need additional therapy, just read some of the Explorer messages.

poisondartfrog · January 2002

Transmission hard shift out of 1st is probably a worn modulating valve in the valve body. I was lucky, my SES light went on and the dealer quickly identified the problem. Typically happens when the tranny fluid is hot (mine happened an hour into a 400-mile highway trip). Not isolated to just Blazers/Jimmys/Bravadas, but any GM truck using the 4T60-E tranny. The cure is an updated valve body... the original one used a plastic modulating valve that becomes ovalized over time and allows fluid to leak past, resulting in the hard upshift.

Since we are on the subject of the 4T60-E, I've discovered another phenomenom. Even with the new valve body, when the tranny is hot, the 1>2 upshift at light to part-throttle is what GM calls a "double bump" (cold and WOT shifts are firm). I'm going in next week to have the tranny tore into and have the servo rod that controls the shift "adjusted", according to my service advisor, which should firm up the shift (fingers crossed).

bioman3 · January 2002

I owned a 95 Jimmy for about 4 years. It was an experience as you can see from the maintenance records below. I removed the regular maintenance items so thing might seem out of sync. I now own an Explorer which has been a gem by comparison. Very few problems, just regular maintenance. If misery loves company, I hope I made you feel better! Sorry about the order of the data base items. They did not transfer well to this email, but you get the flavor of the Jimmy I owned.

Service Items Repaired Reason Special Comments
2/16/95 Picked up Jimmy 00002.9 New truck
5/15/95 Recall- Crankshaft sensor 03934 Recall
5/15/95 Replaced CMSL 03934 Warranty
6/95 1st. Repair of water leak 04000 Warranty
6/95 2nd repair leak replaced gasket on right rear door 04500 Warranty
9/8/95 Replaced all wiper arms 09576 Pealing paint on arms Warranty
1/23/96 Replaced front braked & cut rotors 15007 maint.
11/5/96 New battery 23338 Warranty
11/10/96 New front brakes 23520 Maint
7/13/97 New front brakes 32137 6th problem
10/24/97 Replaced torque converter & pump 35045 8th. Problem
11/7/97 Replaced oil lines to filter, fuel tank recall 35600 9th problem, fuel tank recall
4/9/98 New front brakes & calipers 41577 10 th problem
4/14/98 New rear brakes + Repaired brake light switch 41865 11th Problem
7/18/98 New right caliper 45434 Leak of brake fluid from caliper
8/22/98 New left front door elect. Lock 46911 Did not open door
1/10/99 Front brakes, rotated tires 52508 12 th problem fast brake pad wear
4/17/99 New shift cable 56809 Cable broke could not shift transmission
6/12/99 New front brakes, rotated tires 59221 13 th problem- fast brake pad wear
6/15/99 New front rotors 59290 14th problem- rotors scorched & grooved
7/12/99 Windshield washer pulse control 60175 15th. Problem Recall
7/22/99 Replace catalytic converter 60443 16th. Problem Warranty work
10/31/99 new front brake pads, new left front caliper 65440 17th. Problem
10/31/99 New Battery+ Found vanity light in right sun visor has been on for four years!! 65455 18th. Problem
12/30/99 ABS ROM Chip + NYS Inspection 66780 19th Problem recall & inspection

gbond · January 2002

i am finally getting around to replacing the oil cooler lines on my 99 blazer.

for one of the pieces, my gm parts shop provided me with part no. 15760333, which is the lines btwn the radiator/oil cooler and filter housing.

the part is identified as a "replacement part" in the gm inventory, replacing original part no. 15726903. (apparently the original part is no longer manufactured?).

the original design featured on the upper hose a metal tube fitting with a 90 deg angle and short length to fit into the quick-release fitting in the radiator/oil cooler.

the replacement part, in contrast, is noticeably different from the original in that this metal tube features, from its end, a longer length before arcing into a gradual downward curve as it straightens and connects to the rubber hose segment.

the original design seemed to assure that this oil hose fitting would plug into the radiator/oil cooler quick-release fitting with nearly no room to spare between the radiator/oil cooler and air box.

i haven't applied the new part yet, but just after eyeing the application, it appears there is no way this new-styled upper oil cooler line fitting is going to fit in the space available btwn the upper quick release fitting and the air box. the length of tube before it bends downward is so long that it appears it will stick out far beyond the limit imposed by the position of the air box.

does anybody have experience with this new "replacement" part?

is it going to work or does the air box need to be re-positioned?

many thanks,

gregg

indrgb · January 2002

I know what you are talking about because I just put these lines on my 96. The new ones look standardized and cost reduced (to GM). I had the same concern when I installed mine, but they did go on. However there was some slight interference with the air filter housing AND at the other end where it connects to the oil filter housing. I was also concerned that the lock ring did not snap into a groove like the old one and there was too much play. But so far they are not leaking.

Question to all: has anyone had to replace the lines from the engine to the filter housing? It looks like the front differential has to be removed? Not a typical DIY.

suchsimon · January 2002

I changed my leaking oil cooler lines about four months ago on my 95 Blazer. What a job! I jacked up the vehicle and removed the front left wheel to gain access to the engine/trans bracket. The next step was to remove the bolt from the engine mount in order to jack up the engine about inch or two to remove the lines from the engine. What a horrible design. Took about four hours of trial and error to figure this out. I hope this helps.

gbond · January 2002

thanks for the replies to my oil line comments.

1) indrgb: undoubtedly, the quality of the replacement part appears to fall far short of the orig.

as you point out, i suspected that the fittings would probably not fit as securely as the orig. the replacement part simply looks cheap.

2) based on suchsimon's experience i will leave that part of the job to the dealer. with the wheel off, i thought i might be able to devise some method by which to reach that bolt. the front diff appears to make it nearly impossible to reach, but i thought maybe, just maybe there might be a way. i guess i won't waste more time considering it.

peterson33 · January 2002

My wife's 96 Blazer has had many of the problems that appear in these posts. I can't wait for the rest to hit now that the extended warranty is over.

Our current problem is drving my crazy. We changed all four tires with about 49,000 miles on them. Up until then the truck ran very smoothly on the highway. Now it vibrates very noticibly at 65mph and higher.

The tires were bought at Goodyear and I brought the Blazer back twice. Each time they put four new tires on it. I'm sure they really did because they were different models. Goodyear says it's not the tires.

I brought it to Sears to have the tires rebalanced and they said that we need new idle arms and new upper and lower ball joints. I wasn't comfortable with Sears doing that work so I brought it to the Chevy dealer who replaced both lower ball joints for $500. It still shakes. Should we do the trial and error routine and keep paying for things that don't help?

poisondartfrog · January 2002

If you have to have the ball joints replaced, odds are good GM should reimburse you for the trouble.

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/central2.cfm

peterson33 · February 2002

Thanks Poisendartfrog! I called my dealer today and he told me about the upper ball joint "deal" only after I complained that their first fix did nothing to fix my truck.

I wish I made the post before they replaced the lower ball joints. Hopefully Chevy will make good on them.

abc246 · February 2002

I was not able to get to the recall info on the above link and could not find it. Is there a recall # for it?

I had the ball joints replaced under 36/36, since they went at 30k miles. Never had a car/truck do that before. I think everyone should complain to NHTSA on ALL our items. GM should be forced to recall most of this junk.

My engine is again (with 60k) making a noise at idle that sounds like the belt tensioner. It was replaced under warranty at 30k also. It now needs replacing again. My problem is I can't tell what needs replacing. Is it the idler arm, the idler arm wheel, or the separate idler wheel?

Not to feel left out, here is what was replaced on my Blazer, all in the first 36/36! The oil cooler lines (both), power steering pump, both lower ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, battery, heater core, radio, radio speaker, drivers upper door hinge, both rear rotors, CV joint boot, tailgate light switch. I also had to replace the exhaust donuts my self at 50k. What a job that it is.

I can feel that American quality! The worst part is that the plastic interior rattles so much you want to hate this SUV when driving too. I want to trade it but the poor resale value makes it nearly impossible. I bet GM is laughing at all of us.

suburban9 · February 2002

I recently bought a 98 CHEVY BLAZER S-10 with 57k on it. I had it checked out by a mechanic and he found a few leaks but nothing major and nothing that was not covered under an extended warranty I bought. My problem is the gas mileage however. I get approx. 120 miles to a full tank of gas which is horrible. It starts and drives smoothly so do not know if a tune up would help. Is there anything else that I can check for besides the air filter which is new (such as PCV, oxygen sensors etc..)or anything that would help? thanks
SS.

poisondartfrog · February 2002

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01I018000
Component: SUSPENSION:INDEPENDENT FRONT CONTROL ARM UPPER:BALL JOINT
Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Year: 1997 Make: CHEVROLET TRUCK Model: BLAZER Recall Date: 01/07/2002
Type of Report: Vehicle
Potential Number of Units Affected:
Manufactured: / - /
Defect Summary:
THIS IS NOT A SAFETY RECALL IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SAFETY ACT. HOWEVER, IT IS DEEMED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN BY THE AGENCY. VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: 1996-1997 4-WHEEL DRIVE CHEVROLET BLAZER, GMC JIMMY, AND OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES. SOME OWNERS HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR REPLACEMENT OF THE UPPER BALL JOINTS THAT HAVE SEPARATED. GM IS PROVIDING A SPECIAL POLICY TO THESE OWNERS TO COVER UPPER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT IF THE CUSTOMER FOLLOWED THE RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR THE CHASSIS LUBRICATION AND THE VEHICLE STILL REQUIRED THE REPLACEMENT OF THE UPPER BALL JOINTS DUE TO SEPARATION. Consequence Summary:
THIS COULD CAUSE A LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. Corrective Summary:
THIS SPECIAL POLICY IS FOR A PERIOD OF 8 YEARS OR 100,000 MILES, WHICHEVER OCCURS FIRST, FROM THE DATE THE VHEICLE WAS ORIGINALLY PLACED IN SERVICE, REGARDLESS OF OWNERSHIP. THE UPPER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT, DUE TO SEPARATION, WILL BE MADE AT NO CHARGE TO THE CUSTOMER DURING THIS PERIOD.

Check to order research. Submit below.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01V200000
Component: SUSPENSION:INDEPENDENT FRONT CONTROL ARM UPPER:BALL JOINT
Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

Year: 1997 Make: CHEVROLET TRUCK Model: BLAZER Recall Date: 07/02/2001
Type of Report: Vehicle
Potential Number of Units Affected: 48600
Manufactured: / - /
Defect Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, WEST VIRGINIA, AND WISCONSIN, AND IN THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. FAILURE OF AN UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY COULD OCCUR DUE TO CORROSION. Consequence Summary:
THIS CAN RESULT IN IMPAIRED STEERING OR STEERING LOSS, OR A PARTIAL OR COMPLETE COLLAPSE OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. Corrective Summary:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE BOTH UPPER BALL JOINTS.

poisondartfrog · February 2002

With all stop-and-go driving, the WORST mpg with my '97 Bravada has been 14-15 mpg. With 120 miles on an 18-20 gallon tank, 6-7 mpg???? Whoa... is the exhaust, eh, sooty? Maybe a converter is plugged, but then you say it drives smoothly? With that low a gas mileage, that engine is not at all "efficient". Does it have good acceleration? The 4.3 V6 isn't a powerhouse, but it isn't a "dog" either. Definitely calls for a full diagnostic.

Unless... Have you confirmed you fill 15-20 gallons when it reads empty? Maybe the fuel sending unit is wacked?

Just some ideas to ponder...

spoom · February 2002

for the ball joints. I had one fail and it also tore up the wheel as you folks my remember from previous posts in this thread. I had them replace at the local carX long before I found out about this problem. I contacted GM and was told my truck was made at a different factory with different ball joints. The fact my wheel collapsed into the wheel well didn't matter. Then I get a letter #G01049 stating that the coverage had been expanded and to send original documents to an address for consideration. I sent copies with this explanation:
Dear GM,

I am enclosing these documents in reference to GM Campaign Bulletin 01048 and letter G01049. I own a ?97 GMC Jimmy SLT that had the upper right ball joint fail suddenly at less than 60k miles and in it?s sixth year on the road. This destroyed the cast wheel as well, when an upper joint mounting bolt gouged a groove in the inside of the wheel and the tire went flat.
Not knowing at the time that this was common to the vehicle and having been disappointed in the past with my local GMC dealer, I had the truck towed to a local CarX dealership. I had all four ball joints replaced since the other upper had play and as long as it was up on the rack I might as well get it over with. I obtained a salvage yard replacement wheel for $50 (the tire was found to be ok and reused) and cleaned it up. I did not have the alignment done at CarX because they didn?t have that service available and I couldn?t afford it then anyway.
I found out about Bulletin 01048 from a friend and called GM who had me bring it to my local dealer- Lemay Pontiac/GMC, Kenosha, WI (262) 694-1500. They told me that my Jimmy was built at a different plant with ball joints from a different supplier than referenced by the Campaign, and didn?t qualify. While being very polite they said in effect, ?What do you want from us? You come in here with aftermarket (Moog brand) parts on your car installed by someone else and expect money?? GM said the same thing, reference #05642894. Armed with this knowledge that I was on my own, I had the alignment done at Tires Plus later on. I also had the idler and pittman arm done at that time (Moog, again). At least the tie rod ends were still good.

Folks, I am not trying to make a dime off of General Motors.
This vehicle has been a money pit like nothing I have ever owned in 30 years of driving. I put over $3000 dollars into it in the last year or so. Even though the transmission was removed and rebuilt by the dealer under warranty at 28k miles, it failed last February to the tune of $1400 when the shaft for the reverse planetary gears snapped off of the ?basket?. (I never towed anything heavier than an 800lb jet ski and have never had another vehicle need tranny repairs.) I?ve replaced 2 of the 4 oxygen sensors at my own cost. I replaced the serpentine tensioner. This is in addition to normal preventative maintenance like shocks, spark plug harness, and the serpentine itself. The ?Service Engine Soon? light comes on more than the dome light! (It?s on again now.) Even now there are things I?ve given up on because of the cost to repair them (Dealer says no open Campaigns, but I?ve found plenty of other occurrences on Edmunds.com SUV site.) The gas gauge stops working below ½ tank. The wipers don?t always come on unless you use the ?mist? paddle as you hit a bump.

I am hoping GM will see their way clear to reimburse me for at least the cost of the upper ball joints, wheel alignment and the replacement rim.

I am enclosing copies, as I need the originals for warranty purposes. I can send them later if it is the only thing preventing a reimbursement, but I have paid dearly for those receipts and at least I know I have a warranty with those merchants while I wait like a beggar in front of GM. I have also enclosed a copy of the letter I sent to my local dealer asking to be taken off their mailing list after receiving a card inviting me in for scheduled 60K service. I do not have an axe to grind with them and they have always been politely businesslike, but they have also been rather useless to me in my first GM ownership experience. Thank you for any consideration.
(end of letter)

I got a call from them today and the rep explained that they can't even make a determination IF I am eligable for a dime without the original work orders, proof of registration to me at the time, and proof of payment. I don't have a problem prooving I own it and did at the time. I sure don't have the credit card receipt after all these months, and they don't need the originals until they are ready to cut a check. I do have a picture of the car sitting outside CarX with the wheel collapsed , and since I'm still driving it now I think we can assume the front end didn't fix itself for free. All I wanted was to have the joints themselves covered, a lousy $50 for the $400+ wheel and $49.99 for the alignment. I asked her to please throw my file out, they win. That's all they want anyway, to make a enough people walk away rather than jump through all the hoops. Even knowing that, it isn't worth it to go through any more grief over this piece of junk vehicle with only 63k miles on it. They can go to hell if they think I will ever buy another GM product.
Glenn Woods

tidester · February 2002

spoom,

I sure don't have the credit card receipt after all these months...

I am sure that your credit card company would be happy to provide you with a copy of the receipt. All it takes is a quick phone call.

tidester
Host
SUVs

spoom · February 2002

I've just had enough. I will not let this piece of poop vehicle make me jump through their hoops any more. They don't need originals to tell me if I'm even going to get anything, considering I was already turned down once. And that was after I had already brought it to my dealer at GM's request to verify that the joints had been replaced. 1½ hrs. later I had their report and that was sent in to GM again this time. I mean, it's bad enough all the time and money I've lost having this thing in the shop time and again without having to sit there after a repair too, only to be shot down. The words on the originals are identical to the copies so they could just read the damn stuff and make a decision, then let me know "Send the originals to get $_____, thanks and sorry." It's not the money, really. I wasn't kidding about the $3000 spent on repairs in the last 14 months, whatever they would've sent me wouldn't have made a dent in the past bills and I would've just spent it on the wipers or gas gauge anyway. I just needed a place to vent. This also gives me a chance to mention to others out there not to get their hopes up and a good look at GM and their way of saying "Hey, we screwed-up building your truck, but you screwed up by buying and keeping it."

tidester · February 2002

It's tough enough plunking down big bucks and then to have insult added to injury by stonewalling on what you are due is a bit much!

Too bad for them you've had the final word!

tidester
Host
SUVs

phantom7 · February 2002

I need to find out of the 1997 Blazer 2 or 4wd came with an optional sized tire. I know that the stock tire was P205/75-15 Uniroyal Tiger Paw. This is a nice passenger car tire as it went 55K on my 98 S-10. What I am looking for is confirmation via a sales brochure or other printed material for this model indicating the other sizes available. Did anyone purchase the 97 Blazer with P225/75-15's from the factory?

I appreciate all of your assistance.

rangerron7 · February 2002

Your situation is considerably worse than my experience with my old 95 Blazer. Finally got rid of it a while back. What a money pit!
Ron

indrgb · February 2002

I have a brochure for a 97 Jimmy. It shows two tire sizes, 205/75R15 and 235/70R15. The suspension pkg determines the tire size. My 96 came with 235/70R15 Michelin's that would puncture if I ran over a marble (well almost). I replaced them with Uniroyal Laredos and no problems since.

revker · February 2002

thanks for you inputs. unfortunately, i still can't get the rotors off. like zr2rando said, i think it's the parking brake shoe that's holding it there. funny thing is, i've got 2 98 s-10's, it's the same situation for both trucks. for sure it is for both rear rotors on my ls and the driver side rear on my lt. i haven't tried taking off the passenger side yet but i'm almost sure it's the same deal. mechanic's coming tomorrow, we'll see what he says.

zr2rando, when you said the whole rotor assembly, what did you mean by that? just the one piece - brake rotor, or including the parking brake assembly too, the whole hub assembly?

thanks

BEDunlap · February 2002

I have a '95 Jimmy, 4dr, 4WD, SLE.

Just crossed over 74,000 miles, the truck
still looks clean and sounds like the day
I bought.

If all I did was road driving I probably
would have traded it in some time ago. But
I take it off road for serious duty (hunting
and camping) every so often and I fall in
love with my truck all over again. I all too
often get the truck into spots that I have no
business putting it into, I am impressed that
it has pulled itself out of my messes each
and every time.

Since I last posted (about two years ago)
I have had to replace the driver side window
motor, had the vent controller box replaced,
and put on a new set of brake pads. I also
kept up with the usual maintenance and had
the wiper motor recall and ABS controller
recall taken care of - no problems before
or after that work.

zr2rando · February 2002

sorry to say that, but they replaced the rotor/minidrum, and all the parking brake componants..they had all clearly been overheated.
the minidrum had been grooved and would have been severely turned as well,,
really a crappy design!
If that is your problem, and it sounds like it is, I would insist that Chev pay for it due to a design problem,,,,they don't even work right when they are working right!
Good luck, let us know what happens
Rando

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles