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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • love to trade it in so much going on it like oil cooler lines replace one & replace the seals on the other oil cooler line seals stop the leaking for now, replace oxygen sensor,replace two battery's,replace belt tensioner,replace the intake manifold Gasket because it was linking,had the recall done on the a.s.b. brakes,flasher fuss replace,tune up done because check engine light said bad #5 cyc. bad spark wire only 58700 miles on it. Know what the check light back on,start it up or sit at a stop light, light flash's truck run's bad then runs great, But check engine light stays on but does not flash,But it runs good some time. Look's good in the drive way park there.Next step take it to a ele. shop & care repair shop. So glad I'm not alone with this night mare From HELL.
  • Please provide more info. Where did you get the clamps? Who makes them? Just had my 2nd set of oil cooler lines installed on 2/26... want to keep them on.

    Maybe the aftermarket needs to take notice and design a custom set of oil lines for the 4.3 S-trucks???
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Posts: 6
    I was thinking of putting together a petition towards a recall of the oil cooling lines, since it seems so many have had this problem. I have created an email address: [email protected] I would like to get one-hundred (100) emails first showing interest in this before I formulate and pass one around. If interested, please send just a short email to that address.

    Brandon Morgan
  • lardflardf Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Blazer LS that (so far) I have been satisfied with. My problem began when it had around 18,000 miles on it. I switched from 2WD to 4HI, as I have many times, but this time when I switched back to 2WD there was an unusual noise (like a 'growl') that starts at around 40MPH and fades away at around 55MPH. If I switch back to 4HI, the noise stops. I brought the car to the dealer to check it out and (after they kept the car for two days) they told me that the sound was normal. Something about the front axle "freewheeling" when in 2WD at this speed and the noise was nothing to be concerned about. About two weeks later, the car wouldn't shift into 4HI at all, it would only shift from 2WD to 4LO, and would hesitate before engaging 4LO. The dealer replaced something called an 'actuator' and again told me that the noise was not related to this problem and was normal. I'm convinced that something is wrong somewhere in the drivetrain, but can't seem to convince the dealer. If the noise was 'normal', it should have been there from day one, which it wasn't. The sound is almost unbearable at times and I'm sure it's getting worse every day. Has anyone ever had this problem? I need some advice!
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    In 1998, having had only Toyotas since '76 I found myself unable to afford another 4Runner after a divorce. I found a loaded '97 GMC Jimmy SLT 4x w/28K and bought it. Soon it seemed to need too much gas when backing up so I brought it back. Seems a forward clutch didn't fully disengage, they rebuild the whole thing under warranty. Well, I just stuck $1500 into it at 52k miles when the "basket" that has the spine shaft for the reverse planetary snapped. No reverse OD or 2nd gear. In between I've replaced 2 of the 4 oxygen sensors. The temp gauge wanders all over even after a new thermostat. A pyrometer check shows actual temp varying by only 5° or so while gauge goes 20° or more. Oh well, screw it. The "service engine soon" light is on so often I don't even notice any more. I find myself slamming on the brakes whenever someone is tailgating me, hoping to get a new truck. I wouldn't buy another GM piece of crap again if you put a gun to my head. (I work for a supplier to GM and would even get a discount.)
  • specfourspecfour Posts: 3
    good by to my 1997 Blazer LT I traded it in on a 01 Pathfinder thank god I bought the extended warranty when I bought this thing in 1996 after it went past three years the ever so common oil line leaks three times rear seal also fuel sending unit alternator fan belt also problems so common to all the other posts Before I traded it in I brought it in to a Chev dealer to go all over it they did a 30000 mile service and found a cracked belt tensioner also another oil leak the line going to the rear all this with only 35000 miles by by GM
  • axosaxos Posts: 1
    I have a 98 AS Blazer and I noticed a pinging noise when I run my air conditioner or defroster. While investigating this problem further my air conditioner no longer puts out cold air. Has anyone else had similar problems with their compressor?
  • azchevy3azchevy3 Posts: 2
    Your 4WD encoder motor went bad. There is a lot of work involved in locating the problem, but that is what it is. Be glad its under warranty, the repair can be as much as $1,200-$1,400.
  • azchevy3azchevy3 Posts: 2
    My transmission just died yesterday. The car only has 56,000 miles. The 4WD encoder motor went out at 40,000 miles. This car is a total piece of crap. I assure everyone, this will be the last Blazer I will ever own. The slogan "Like a Rock" means the car is a financial rock pulling you down until you get rid of the piece of crap that it is.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    A 2000 Jimmy with 7,000 miles. Sounds like tire tread hum. Shifts in and out of 4WD OK. I tried testing it at speed but don't get the growl consistently.

    So its probably the encoder?

    I'll let you know what happens next.
  • Yes, the oily garage floor from the leaky lines... I'm on my 3rd set. Maybe we should send GM pictures of our dirty garage floors as evidence and the receipts for the concrete cleaner for reimbursement!

    I'm curious... front end work? Ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm, ring a bell? Thankfully, extended warranty covered that repair.
  • I've had the whole works replaced on the front end of my '95 Jimmy.
    The mechanic claimed some are bad right out of the factory. I need
    to get the ball joints replaced again.
  • keewadinkeewadin Posts: 1
    My wrench told me that the fuel injection unit (referred to as the spyder)that sits on top of the 4.3 Vortec is prone to failure. It develops leaks which floods the engine. Starting first thing in AM is no problem but after that you have to floor the peddle (which "shuts off" the choke) to get it going if it sits for more than ten minutes.
    Car runs OK but he says as the leak gets worse starting and running will eventually deteriorate to not starting. Because the leak is internal there is supposedly no risk of fire. Anyone else had this problem in same or different model years? What was replacement cost?
  • bqchevybqchevy Posts: 1
    Did anyone find a aftermarket clamp for the 4.3 cooler lines that fail ?
  • venus194venus194 Posts: 1
    My son is home from the military and looking at purchasing a '97 Blazer with 47,000 miles. This vehicle MUST be reliable as he will be driving across the country when he returns to base. The dealership has suggested he buy an after warranty warranty. After reading some of these posts...I think maybe he shouldn't even BUY this vehicle. He will not be able to afford expensive repairs and so this vehicle (which he will be paying for for the next 5 years) needs to be problem free. What are the suggestions from this expert group?
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Posts: 6
    I am still trying to get mails for a recall. I have written MC about my intent, but all I have received so far was a automatic reply message telling me someone would write me back shortly. If you or anyone you know has had a problem with these oil cooling lines, please send a short mail to [email protected] so that I can gain some support. It seems there is an argument to be made, I just need some stories to back it up. Please pass this mail address around to any and all. This problem could end up costing YOU lots of money if we don't get something done about this problem. Feel free to post your own message on other message boards regarding this mail address and its intent.

  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    If he needs a reliable means of transportation there is no way I could recommend a '97 (or any year) Blazer/Jimmy. See my earlier post for the reasons. And add to that a gas gauge that was reading ½ tank with 298 miles on the trip odometer. I pulled into the first station I came to and put in 16.2 gallons. Either it just grew a 32.4 gallon gas tank or I can add another item to the list of why my '97 w/53K sucks. It's an SLT with all the bells and whistles, nice leather, 6 speaker CD, etc. etc. and I could care less. The "service engine soon" light is back on again and I just ignore it. In my mind I've written it off. Until it starts flashing and smoke rolls out from under the hood I won't give it a second thought. Once you have no faith in a car what good is it? On the 15th of next month I make the last payment. Big deal-now I can work on paying off the $1500 I borrowed on a home equity line to repair the transmission. Anyone who buys a Blazer/Jimmy should 1) Have plenty of cash 2) Live within walking distance of the dealer 3) Own a second vehicle.
    Glenn W
  • Yes, Poisondartfrog, I've replaced all of those. I'm really surprised at the late model Blazers having such a high failure rate on those. I thought it was the same structure that they've always used (mine is a 1990 S-10 Tahoe 2WD). They must have switched to lower quality parts. My situation was really that the upper control arm bushings had worn away. But for what the shops wanted to charge me to replace them, I did it myself and just replaced everything else while I was at it as the rest was fairly worn out. I replaced the upper and lower ball joints, coil springs, stabilizer bushings, upper control arm bushings, idler arm, tie rods, center link, ya da ya da ya da. It rides good and tight now. I certainly can't complain as it has 135K and a lot of that has been spent on some pretty crappy driving surfaces. It sounds like the later models don't hold up as well. My 1990 is as strong as it ever was. But when it does eventually die, I don't think I'll get a later model.
  • kritterkritter Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 jimmy slt and the radiator coolant turns brown and chunky, even after i had it flushed. I also have problems with the sepentine belt. The mileage on the car is low only, only 43000 miles. I also have a problem with the airconditioning and the heat. I freeze in the winter and sweat in the summer. neither really works
  • conmomconmom Posts: 1
    For the past three summers, my husband's 1994 Blazer has lost freon over the winter months. The first year he had it checked by the dealer for a leak and nothing was found and it was charged back up. The second season in the spring, again there was no freon. We took it to a repair shop, the service person couldn't find a leak and suggested it might have been "stolen" as freon was becoming a "commodity" as it's being phase out. Again, we had it charged back up. Last year, no freon and once again a different repair shop, same story. Now, once again this spring, we are faced with no freon and a "sneaky leak." Has anyone else had this problem and been lucky enough to discover where the leak was? I really doubt the freon fairy has been stealing from us for three years now! Thanks, Jen
  • I have a '98 LS 4WD with 40K that so far has had no mechanical problems (build quality and fuel economy are both troubling however). For the last 3K or so, the wipers seem to have a mind of their own, randomly choosing to wipe at full speed when on the lowest intermittent setting! Didn't seem to be a major problem but it has been worse and sometimes they won't operate at all (last time was in a heavy rainstorm...not fun). Any ideas?
  • kritter: I'd flush the coolant again. Many owners of S-trucks with Dexcool coolant have complained about sludge forming in system, to the point of clogging the heater core and overheating the engine. I have no faith in the 5 yr./100K mileage claim... I have mine flushed every 2 yrs., the same interval I follow for my other vehicles with the green stuff. The only advantage to using Dexcool is it contains no silicates, which is kinder to the water pump, which should increase its life.

    One point I should add is to NEVER mix Dexcool with the green stuff; I'm told you'll clog your system for sure.

    middcollkid: I am not certain, but if the Blazer is like other GM cars I have worked on, the intermittent wipe is controlled by a circuit board (timer), and is located in the wiper motor housing. I replaced a defective board after my wiper would "mist" three times instead of once, and also was inconsistent with the "delay" time.

    conmom: Maybe the leak occurs during cold weather, so I would have it leak-checked on a cold day. I suspect an o-ring has taken a "set" over 7 years, and it cannot expand (not as pliable) at lower temperatures, so it allows the Freon to escape. I'd first suspect the o-rings that seal the high and low pressure fittings at the back of the compressor, but that's just a guess.

    Oh, and I'd convert to R-134a, so that this sneaky leak doesn't cause as a big a leak in your wallet from the R-12 re-charge.
  • lueytlhlueytlh Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Chevy Blazer that has a case of the "Mississippi Mud". I've had to completely replace my radiator. My mechanic said he'd never seen anything like it in the 30 years he's worked on cars. Does anyone know what recourse I have with GM or what consumer protection agency to contact about this problem? If GM says, and they do so clearly, that the radiator should NOT be touched for 100,000 miles, they should pay for this repair. My Blazer had 79,000 miles on it when I first began having problems. Your help is appreciated. You can e-mail me @: [email protected]
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My 1999 4 Dr. 4x4 Blazer has a very annoying rattle that seems to be coming from the chassis. If I hit a small bump like patched pavement with only one front wheel I hear some type of knock or rattle from under the truck. I suspected the front skid plate under the oil pan, but I removed this plate and it is still there. It seems to be worse when it is raining outside. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help finding the source.

    For the record, the oil cooler line, power steering pump, both lower ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, battery, heater core, radio, radio speaker, door hinge, both rear rotors, CV joint boot, tailgate light switch, have all been replaced under warranty. The truck now has 42k miles and the warranty period is over. Is this now a good truck? Do you think all this junk is going to need replacing in 30k miles again? Do you think these parts were just defective or are they very low quality? (GM should be asking these very same questions!)

    For all its bad points (quality) it does have some good points. The acceleration is amazing. According to my Gtech meter, this truck goes from 0 to 60 in 7.83 secs!! It is faster than my friends 2000 Maxima SE with auto, his time was 7.86 secs. The Blazer actually walks away from the Maxima from 0-35 mph and the Maxima catches up from 35-60mph. Braking is excellent (I replaced the pads at 35k miles) with after market pads. Handling is excellent for a SUV (I replaced the front stabilizer bushings with urethane). The highway ride is very good with the stock Bilstien shocks. The engine has a lot of power when towing heavy loads and the transmission does not hunt gears when towing.

    Too bad the Quality is very low. The interior has many rattles. The plastic construction is cheap and squeaks. The gears in the differential(s) whine or groan. The offset test results are so bad after seeing the pictures I can't get them out of my mind. The frame actually starts to bend in two in the middle! The Blazer was worst in class,

    If GM is not dumb enough, they then produce a GMC Jimmy commercial promoting the "industrial strength frame" on the Jimmy. They even give the engineer's name on who designed this death traps frame.

    Does GM think we are stupid? I guess so. But the real joke is on GM. GMs market share is going down. GM will not be the number automaker in a few years- and I wonder why!

  • hankjkhankjk Posts: 4
    I have a grinding sound coming from under the hood or front end of my new JIMMY. The truck has 125 miles on it. It seems to only happen when the truck is in gear,if I shift to park or neutral it stops. Any one else have a similar problem or have any ideas as to what it could be? I'm ready to take this truck back already( although I must admit I really like the truck other than this noise)
  • yes hank, I get that noise in my 2000 Blazer. If it's the same noise, it sounds like a low growling (or grinding) coming from directly behind the firewall. This only happens when the vehicle idles or is moving in lower gears. I've taken it to two different dealerships, and both of them have bullshitted me on the problem -- one of them saying it was the A/C compressor (after I hadn't used A/C in over two months), the other just topped off the power steering fluid. I do, however, believe this to be associated in some way with the power steering fluid pump. See if your noise gets louder as you turn the wheels hard to one direction or the other. Perhaps some air bubbles have formed within the power steering fluid reservoir? My next course of action will be to drain and replace the power steering fluid...I'm finished dealing with lazy car dealer mechanics who are unwilling or unable to constructively solve problems unless the procedures for doing so are handed down in a 'cookbook-style' training circular from the corporate office.
  • hankjkhankjk Posts: 4
    KOMATIITE sounds like the same exact problem. My dealer changed the pcv valve & now its fine.Sounds funny but have them give it a try.
  • aqua10aqua10 Posts: 1
    Has any one had problems with the ABS and brake lights (from the dashboard) coming on - (failing)

    My NEW 2001 Blazers ABS and brake light module has shorted out twice in 2 days. The dealer is fixing it again, but I am a little worried because the Blazer is only 2 days old. 49 miles
  • For the door hinge, were the pins and bushings replaced? I had mine replaced recently on my '97 Bravada at 46K miles. I've also heard some people need the hood hinge shimmed to get rid of a knocking noise over bumps.

    And, you didn't list the upper ball joints as being replaced... that may be another source of knocking from underneath the vehicle.

    BTW, what was the reason for the rear rotor replacement? I've noticed mine are below the service limit on the stock pads at 46K. It seems like the OEM pad material was too hard a compound?, and wears down the rotors prematurely (the rear pads still have half the original thickness left). I replaced the front pads with a softer compound... a little more brake dust, but I can modulate the brakes better and the pads should wear out before the rotors!
  • Found this link about Dexcool and whether it is linked to contamination in the cooling system. Have you checked your radiator cap lately?

    This link found at:

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