Kia Sedona Electrical Problems

pereziperezi Member Posts: 3
We are currently having problems with our ESC.

The ESC Off light is on all the time.
A bit of background. We purchased our vehicle on president's day. Instead of taking it home there was an air bag sensor that came on that they wanted to take a look at. Nearly two weeks later we picked it up after sitting in the dealership for 3 hours. The after factory leather that was put in apparently caused issues with the passenger air bag monitor. So, they still didn't have the right part so they put a cloth seat until the new part came in. We hade the car for approximately a week and the ESC Off light was still on and we are waiting for the air bag part.

In the mean time the battery dies ... twice ... notwithstanding the jumping and allowing time to charge it. Oh, on two occassions when we started to drive with the wheel turned it felt as if the brake or something else grabbed at the tire and caused it to abruptly albeit briefly stop. Suffice to say we had road side assistance pick up our car and deliver it to our service department. Since that time they have replaced our battery, put back the leather seat with the appropriate air bag monitor but still cannot figure out the ESC Off light which I am told may be what caused the grab at the front tire.

Here I sit waiting for them to call and tell us our vehicle is actually fixed as I continue to make car payments.

Wish I could just return it.
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Comments

  • beyond_helpbeyond_help Member Posts: 110
    do yourself a favor early on and check with a lemon law lawyer in your area. the best thing to do maybe to go that route. i wish i did with our sorento lemon, now it is too late :lemon:
  • iscazziscazz Member Posts: 5
    Welcome to the wonderful world of KIA. :lemon:

    My second Sedona lemon from KIA is still malfunctioning in the same manner. Air bag sensors, check engine light, esc light, abs light, tpms light, something in the suspension rattles and causes the brake pedal to jolt at the slightest bump.

    The dealership and corporate Kia have both inspected the car 6 times and every single time they say, "The car is functioning as designed."

    I agree with the statement to find a lemon law lawyer and get out if you can, but I think you'll find it to be a long, hard road. I've been working on it for months. Kia is very slow to acknowledge anything. GOOD LUCK!
  • pereziperezi Member Posts: 3
    We were finally told the esc light had been fixed yesterday and they told us to come pick it up. We arrived and the esc light had been fixed. Now the drivers side air bag light is on. They tried to fix it while we waited and naturally that didn't work. We left and were told that they would call us today. After not hearing from them by lunch we called them and were told we already pick up our vehicle. The service people are killing me. They finally realized they had the vehicle and oh by the way they need a part which won't be in until at least Monday. Today is the 20th cumulative day our vehcile has been in the shop compared with the 5 days in our possession. I will probably send out a final demand under lemon law ... I may also consult with counsel.

    What happens if they do fix it over the next ten days and then we have another problem? How does Lemon Law deal with this situation?
  • germmgermm Member Posts: 3
    We recently purchase Sedona LX 2007. It was new off the lot with only 32 miles on it when it was purchased. I had done so much reading on minivans and most reviews often state the Sedona as one of the highest rated. Consumer reports actually gives the van a "recommended" on their report.

    That being said, Consumer Reports did mention that the Sedona had some headlight issues. On my first drive at night, I did notice the headlights were very accurate. This was no bother until last night when we went for a drive in the mountains. Because of the way the lights were positioned, it was very difficult to see around turns. I started to understand why consumer reports did not give the Kia reports for the headlights. My question is: can I adjust the positioning of the headlights so that they aim higher? Has annyone else had this concern?
  • 11b33t11b33t Member Posts: 51
    :confuse: Can you provide a link to the CR headlight issue? Seeing around curves? Headlights are designed to illuminate a zone ahead on the ground and slightly to the sides of the vehicles front orientation. Adjusting your headlights higher will in all likelyhood put glare into the vision of oncoming traffic, which is very dangerous during night.

    BTW, I believe either Mercedes, Volvo or BMW have lights that angle when set for driving in hill/mountain terrain...
  • germmgermm Member Posts: 3
    you have to have a membership to consumerreports.org to read their online review. You will notice they give the Sedona a "fair" rating on their headlights which is lower than most other minivan ratings. I would suspect the reasons for the "fair" rating are similar to my sentiments above. It is very difficult to see while turning corners on a hill. Try it.

    I am not talking about completely repositioning the lights, rather just moving them so that I can see further ahead of me. I have owned many cars and trucks in the past and this is the first time I have ever seen anything like this.
  • bagnallbagnall Member Posts: 2
    Perezi- Are you still having problems with your ESC light? I purchased a Sorento about a month ago and mine is currently in the shop now and has been for 7 days. This is the 2nd time. From you email posts, it sounds like I am having the same problem. I was told yesterday that this was the 1st time they had ever seen this problem since the ESC was introduced (at this particular dealership anyway). Any insight you might have would be helpful. Thanks.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Member Posts: 312
    I spent $200.00 on ebay and purchased a HID headlight conversion kit and it makes a world of difference. HID Xenon are the way to go. :shades:
  • edmguyedmguy Member Posts: 2
    i've heard too may nightmare stories about ebay hid conversion -- but more power to you for getting it right. i've bought hids from everyone on the block from the bmw forums to the hid guys at never burn out. my advice is for people to go with a major brand or with someone the car community trusts.

    but like i said, MORE LIGHTING POWER TO YA!

    did you go projector
  • sewtisewti Member Posts: 2
    I have a 07 Sportage. Same problem with the ESC light. It used to be fairly infrequent but is now a daily thing. I had told the dealer about it and they put the car on the computer and didn't see anything wrong (it is the ESC light not the check engine light but whatever).

    If anybody tracks down the source of this issue, link to a service bulletin, anything like that please let me know! I cannot afford a rental for a week or weeks and the dealer is scaring me it could take that long. As long as the ESC is actually functioning I don't give a flying fig about the light itself at this point.

    This is not the only electrical type glitch I have. Periodically the car dings when I get out as though I left the keys in (they aren't). Reinserting and removing the key generally solves it but hoping it doesn't go like the ESC light now.

    I had been chalking them both up to a fluke in that this car came with factory cruise control. But supposedly cruise control is not even available as an option according to the mfr site. Dealer didn't put it in, it came like that and it is Factory.

    Does everybody with this problem have some sort of option that would effect wiring or put in something aftermarket? The only Sportage I found on the net with this ESC light business had an aftermarket towing package put in.
  • bagnallbagnall Member Posts: 2
    My problem was that the car would stop by itself when going around corners and the ESC light would flicker, or the off light would come on by itself. It was very frightening going 50 miles an hour on a bridge and the car decides to stop (and not a gradual stop either, it's like someone slams on the brakes). It's an extreme safety hazard.

    The first time I took it in, they recalibrated the automated steering sensor. Worked a few days and then started again. The next time they had it for 12 days and ended up replacing the sensor. The dealership told me they had never seen this problem since the ESC was introduced. It's been fine for a couple of weeks now but I still tense up when I go over bridges.
  • ranbroranbro Member Posts: 1
    We purchased a 2007 Sedona EX w/ Power Pkg. & Luxury Pkg. on July 4th, 2007. Since then, a problem with the driver’s seat has come up that the local dealer that we purchased from was unable to fix, & is now saying it not fixable, referring us on to the zone representative, whom we have yet to meet. The basic problem is that the driver’s seat has gone out of alignment since we purchased the van. My wife is sensitive to this particular issue since we had a similar problem with the driver’s seat in a 1999 Saturn SL2. Saturn was able to correct the problem, but they had to do it more than once for this vehicle. When we were looking for a new van, this item was one of the first things on the checklist. Our Sedona initially passed the test on this item, but now the driver’s seat is canted toward the left front corner of the vehicle, enough so that it is causing back pain for my wife, who is the primary driver of the van. The service dept. was able to make a very minor adjustment, but not satisfactory. My wife was able to demonstrate the problem by taking a 36” aluminum yardstick, sitting in the seat, holding the yardstick at the front of the seat cushion with the 18” mark centered on the center seam of the leather seat cushion; it was evident that in relation to each end of the yardstick, the seat was out of alignment. The service manager at this dealership has said both “the seat frame rail bolt holes were manufactured in the current position & can’t be altered without voiding the warranty” & “they’re all that way”, when we tried to make the point that other Sedona’s didn’t have the same problem. Since we both use the Memory function to adjust for our preference (driver 1, driver 2), I’m beginning to wonder if it’s not simply a mechanical problem, but a computer/memory module problem that through changes from driver 1 to driver 2 is not aligning the seat correctly on the frame rails.
    Has anyone of you encountered the same or similar problem?
  • baconboy862baconboy862 Member Posts: 2
    the dealer cant find any thing wrong. it is a strong smell. Every service person at the dealer came to the car and could not find a problem. Sometimes the wire burning smell can be smelled on the interior. Does anyone else have this problem or know what it is.
  • dweezerdweezer Member Posts: 1
    I see some messages with the power doors on KIA Sedona not working. My doors go all the way closed and then pop back open. Is anyone having this problem? If so did you find a solution?
  • mcdole66mcdole66 Member Posts: 2
    I need help! The lights (normal driving lights) on my Sedona will not work but the bright lights will.

    WHY?
  • minivanfrankminivanfrank Member Posts: 83
    Well, my first guess would be that the normal (not Hi-Beam) headlights blew out. Do the tail lights light up?
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyMember Posts: 6,068
    Open the hood of the van after the engine is nice and hot... stick your nose in there and see if you can locate the source of the smell.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • tnomaltnomal Member Posts: 1
    Dweezer, I have the same problem. It also closes unexpectedly; a major problem that almost lopped off my fingers a few times.
  • firemedic4firemedic4 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same issue - just popped up yesterday - Fuses are Ok, Relay Ok, and I find it difficult to believe BOTH low beam headlights went out at once.
  • germmgermm Member Posts: 3
  • henshe07henshe07 Member Posts: 4
  • henshe07henshe07 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Sedona LX. All of a sudden my rear tail lights don't work anymore. When I have the key on, my head lights work fine but not the rear tail lights or the licence plate lights. All signal and brakes lights are working fine. I don't think it is fuse related or switch related. Is there maybe and inline fuse that feeds the back lights? Thanks in advance!
  • cscholzecscholze Member Posts: 1
    Hi, how you doing? I am currently having the same issue as you posted regarding the low beam headlights not working and highs are fine. As you said, I have a hard time believeing they both went out at the same time. I've checked all the obvious (fuses, relays, etc.). Curious, did you ever get this problem resolved and could you please pass on some of the details.

    Thank You
  • momw4kidsmomw4kids Member Posts: 1
    My sedona has had this smell for almost a year! It seems to happen every few months. So then I kept thinking about what changes every few months - OIL! So I am guessing it may be a burning oil issue. When the 'time to change your oil' sticker says the miles are up is when we seem to start with the smell all over again. However, no dealer has wanted to tell me this is true. They just think I'm nuts. That's why I finally started searching.
  • dingsdadingsda Member Posts: 1
    I just got my Sedona back after a new altenator was installed (out of warranty!!!), but now the Airbag light will not turn off, Any Idea?

    Can't wait to return the vehicle after the lease!! :sick:

    Andreas
  • mrspomrspo Member Posts: 2
    Hello, Am new to this forum. Writing because I, too, seem to be a member of the club of folks who have persnickety low beams. Am experience issues with the low beams on our 2007 sedona. Out of the blue, we lost both low beams within one weak of each other. Both lamps were fine. I took the headlights off and messed with them, they'd work for a while, then fail again. Right now, passenger side is working, but I suspect it'll fail again soon. No rhyme or reason. Have you had any success in finding out what can be done about this. I'm planning on going to the dealer next week.
  • tmladtmlad Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Sedona, and also recently had to replace the alternator. When I got it back, the air bag light is on, and my low beams don't work. Any ideas? The fuses are all good. I can't imagine both lights burning out at the same time.
  • mrspomrspo Member Posts: 2
    My issue ended up requiring purchase of two new lamps. Unfortunatley, my model year uses a new lamp type *H11b) which is next to impossible to get and ridiculously expensive. 43 bucks each. The dealer said the quartz halogens are good for about 30k miles now and that's about it. Also, people should make sure their headlights are turned off at the switch when they start their car - they said the starting surge shortens lamp life. Hope this helps...
  • baconboy862baconboy862 Member Posts: 2
  • cat_herdercat_herder Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my Sedona as well. It only occurs after the vehicle is driven for a while (probably 30 minutes or more...) and since I have 2 children, I am going bug nuts attempting to locate the source. I'll take it to the dealership as a last resort, due to the fact that I want to locate this problem myself before spending out the exorbitant fees (one arm one leg and everything inbetween) are paid...any ideas? I've checked inside the passenger compartment (Found a partially eaten set of chicken nuggets...mummified..) but, no charred wires, no obvious swells or expansions on the wire connectors themselves...
    Thanks in advance...
    Cat
  • saturn1968saturn1968 Member Posts: 2
    i had a short circuit under the hood which caused the computer to switch to safe mode i guess you could say. the engine starts, but the van is stuck in park, nothing works in the dashboard, power windows dont work. the short is fixed, but is there any way to reset the computer?
  • mkglencrestmkglencrest Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    i have 2003 sedona with exact same issue.
    any resolution?
    thanks
    mk glencrest
  • mkglencrestmkglencrest Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Sedona LX. All of a sudden my rear tail lights don't work anymore. When I have the key on, my head lights work fine but not the rear tail lights or the licence plate lights. All signal and brakes lights are working fine. I don't think it is fuse related or switch related.
    please advise- thanks
    mk glencrest
  • icemanflicemanfl Member Posts: 2
    I just changed the front brakes on my 2007 Kia Sedona and now the "ESC OFF" light is on and won't go off. Any ideas why? Is this related to changing the brakes? How do I correct this?
  • xnrxnr Member Posts: 2
    Same problem with my 2002. No parking or licence plate lights. Everything else is fine. Did you get yours fixed??? :cry:
  • xnrxnr Member Posts: 2
    Put a fuse in the EXT slot (engine comp fuse box) and parking/tail lights work with switch but not with DRL.
    :confuse:
  • eland1eland1 Member Posts: 1
    I don't know if the ypur problem is related to the brake job you had done. But here is some info from Kia on this problem.
    Technical
    Service
    Bulletin
    Model Sedona [VQ]

    Group Brake System(41)

    Number KT2007111401

    Subject
    SEDONA (VQ) ABS/ESC WARNING LAMP ON - POOR GROUNDS (Chassis 018)
    Date Wednesday, November 14, 2007

    Area N. America


    - Description
    Click here to open a PDF version of this TSB
    Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles with a production date earlier than March 8, 2006 may exhibit a customer concern of an ABS/ESC Warning Lamp (MIL) being illuminated. Various DTC’s such as C2402 or U0001 may also be stored in the control module – OR – the GDS Scan Tool may not be able to communicate with the ABS/ESC system at all. Do NOT replace an ABS/ESC unit without at least first applying the procedure described in this TSB. These symptoms may result from poor grounds at G19 and/or G20, caused by paint remains between the bolt and mating weld nut attaching the ground terminal to the body. This TSB provides a procedure to properly correct this condition. Remember too, that other poor connections may exist, and should also be checked prior to any part replacement.

    Ground Point G19 – G20
    Located Behind ABS/ESC Unit On LH (Driver’s) Side Outboard Panel






    - Effective Vehicle Information
    2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) produced before March 8, 2006

    REQUIRED SST: Global Diagnostic System (GDS) with latest software version installed


    - Parts Information
    WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION: Claim Type
    Causal P/N
    Qty.
    N Code
    C Code
    Repair Description
    Labor Op Code
    Time
    Related Parts
    Qty.

    W
    58920 4D300
    0
    N69
    C15
    Removal of paint from ground bolt
    95660F00
    0.3
    NA
    0


    N69: Warning Light On
    C15: Poor Contact


    - Service Procedure
    Repair Procedure

    1. Remove and set aside the engine cover. (4 bolts)







    2. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow Sensor’s (MAF) electrical connector.


    NOTE: Slide the gray colored lock tab slightly in the direction indicated by the arrows in the photograph, which will expose the release tab for the connector. If this is not done first, the MAF connector will be damaged. Gray lock tab is shown here in the released (outward) position.


    3. Loosen the hose clamps at the MAF and throttle assembly. Remove and lay aside the air intake hose as shown, so it’s out of the way.





    4. Release the two spring clips that attach the air filter assembly cover. Remove the cover (with MAF attached) and the air filter insert. This will allow better access to G19 and G20.


    5. Locate the ground point for G19 and G20. It is located behind and close to the ABS/ESC unit, on the LH (driver’s) side outward panel.


    6. Using a ¼” drive ratchet, 14” extension and 10mm flex / swivel socket, reach behind the ABS/ESC unit to remove the G19 – G20 ground bolt.

    You may need to insert your other hand over-top of the ABS/ESC unit (between the brake fluid reservoir and PCM) to guide the socket onto the bolt head.





    The bolt used for G19 – G20 is a self-tapping bolt, which collects debris when first inserted. The next steps will provide a procedure to clean and further remove any remaining debris from this bolt and its threaded hole.


    7. First, move the ground lug away from the threaded hole so no debris will collect on or between the ground surfaces during the thread cleaning process.



    • Clean the removed bolt threads with a stiff bristle brush. (Do NOT use a wire wheel, as this can damage the bolt’s self-tapping capability!)
    • Reinstall the bolt fully without attaching the ground lug.
    • Run the bolt in-and-out completely 3 times (without fully removing) to clean the body’s threaded area.
    • Once again, completely remove the bolt and clean the threads with a stiff bristle brush.
    • Use compressed air to blow any remaining debris from the threaded hole, body surface and the self-tapping threads on the bolt.

    8. Reinstall the ground lug on the bolt and fully tighten the bolt to the body.
    NOTE: Be certain that the hook on the ground lug is inserted into its mating hole when reinstalling bolt. Otherwise, the ground lug may become deformed and not provide a proper ground.

    9. Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Clear any DTC’s that may have been generated. Cycle the ignition key OFF, and then back ON. Make sure the ABS/ESC light (MIL) turns ON for the lamp check, and then turns OFF after several seconds. If the MIL comes back on, check for any stored DTCs, and repair as necessary referencing the service information.
  • nomoresedonanomoresedona Member Posts: 2
    My 2007 Sedona EX has the same issue plus it decides if the they will shut at all or I manually have to do it. Dealer tried to fix. Also DVD, wipers, and horn all had to be fixed. Too bad because it was a comfortable drive from Ohio to NC but the more bells and whistles the more likely for trouble. Our Odyssey went 4 years with zero troubles. Get what you pay for I guess.
  • alan1950alan1950 Member Posts: 2
    Stalled when accelerate, is cause by stuck choke valve. After 4-years and 70000 miles this happen to my Sedona. I remove the air intake system, make sure you disconnect the battery to avoid the sensor activating "check engine" warning lite, then spray the intake with carburetor cleaner at the same time accelerate fully. Do this about 3-times and with W-D lubricator spray linkages and cables attach to the carburator.
  • alan1950alan1950 Member Posts: 2
    Twice this happened on 6 hours of driving. After 4-1/2 years and 70000 miles a 10amp illumination fuse burnt out. While I'm commuting to and from my doctor's appointments, short errands and an hour away drive the fuse is okay. I brought it to the dealer for diagnostic, charged with $180, the technician inform for a fuse box replacement. He also noted that with the auto-start system the starting amperage could short the fuse.
  • b14258b14258 Member Posts: 1
    did you resolve this problem? Now it is happening with my 2003 kia sedona.
  • GACopGACop Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2005 Kia Sedona with 40,000 miles. Went to get emmissions done, and wouldn't you know, the check engine light came on.........so it didn't pass. Had it checked, told the "fuel tank pressure sensor" and the "throttle cable pressure sensor" were both bad. Was also told these were "dealer only" items. What are they? and are they expensive?
  • atpnkatpnk Member Posts: 4
    Unfortunately I have a 04 Kia Sedona. Can anyone give me a detailed description of what OBD codes P0431 and P1159 mean? I have the basic description I want to know some more before I take it to the leaches at the Kia dealer I have been dealing with. Thanks.
  • atpnkatpnk Member Posts: 4
    If they are dealer only items then they are probably expensive. With that model year you may be able to use Hyundai parts. I beleive they have the same engine.

    Good luck
  • whatknotwhatknot Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a new 2006 Sedona over 2 years ago. I have been having a chronic electrical problem. If the car sits idle for several days the electrical system goes out completely. If the road service man connects his battery booster to the battery terminals for a second the electical systems is restored. This has happened 4 times since owning the car. The dealer has replaced the IP module twice but I still have this problem. On my last experience I returned on a midnite flight and could not start my car that was parked in the airport garage for 5 days. This time the dealer could not find the problem so now I have to carry a battery booster in the car. Does anyone have the same probem and if so what is the remedy.? It's not the battery at fault it's something between the battery and the electical panel.
  • thsmedleythsmedley Member Posts: 2
    Whatknot,

    Has the dealer checked for a draw? Radio's, alternators, power seats are all known problems that can cause parasitic draws. These can be very troublesome and sound a little as to what your describing. The 06 sedona is a whole different platform than previous years. You may also want to try another dealer, if not call consumer affairs, that goes a long way in getting it fixed.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Member Posts: 312
    I don't think you have a draw on your system because the battery would be dead if this were the case.
    Try asking the dealer to look at this:

    TSB No. KT2007092001

    Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles produced before April 18, 2007 may exhibit a customer concern in which the engine will not crank (starter will not engage) when attempting to start the engine. In some cases, this condition may be caused by higher than normal resistance across the Burglar Alarm Relay located inside the In Panel Module (IPM). This relay is not a serviceable item, and if defective requires the replacement of the IPM. Other concerns such as poor pin connections and other faulty components in the starter’s circuit may also cause higher than normal circuit resistance, and should be considered before condemning and replacing the IPM. The following test procedure has been developed to assist you in determining whether the problem is the Burglar Alarm Relay in the IPM, or is related to some other area of the starter’s circuit. It’s recommended that this TSB be read in its entirety before attempting to perform this test procedure for the first time.
  • whatknotwhatknot Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response. It doesn't seem like the battery is drawn down because there is no electrical service at all. I tried boosting the battery through the cigarette lighter but that circuit is broken by this shut down. It's more like a circuit breaker trips when the car sits idle for a few days. I will call consumer affairs as you suggest.
  • whatknotwhatknot Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response. I'll check with the dealer. When this problem happens the electrical system is completely dead. Nothing works. It's like a circuit breaker trips when the car sits idle for a few days.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Member Posts: 312
    With a draw your battery would be totally dead and take some recharging time before it would start. Since 06 is the first year redesign some vans are going to have wacky problems such as this. I would explain to the dealer everthing and ask them to check the tsb's. I had two tsb's fixed on my 06 no problem. Check out the website link I posted in the topic area it will allow you to check out all the tsb's and other repair info for yourself. If the alarm kills power to the car and a fault is in the system, you unlock the door with the key, then hook up the booster and it or you turns off the alarm then the car starts fine. This theory sounds like winner. You could try as a test to lock the doors manually when you go away for few days and don't set the alarm.

    When you come to you van and it's dead the wireless key remote does not unlock the doors right? I think the alarm is designed to kill power to the ignition and other things so a fault sounds right. I would not be shocked if the tsb I just listed is the culprit. Let us know what happens.
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