Ford Windstar Engine Problems

raully

I Have a 2000 Windstar 3.8 6cyl, I recently had a code P0507 which read engine running lean. I replaced the intake gasket along with a few other gaskets, no more code. My question now would be when my engine is idleing it hesitates sort of a misfire, also when I'm driving it feels as if it has a misfire. Does anyone have a clue as to what this may be? Mechanic says plugs are good.

thanks.

dabblerz

have a 1997 Ford Windstar that stalls during the morning when I first start up for 5-10 minutes or so. It has a 3.8 L engine. I just had the engine rebuilt and it didn't do this before the rebuild. If I have the radio on there is a click on the radio when it stalls. Sometimes when it stalls, the radio, after a delay, goes out for a 20-60 seconds and then comes back on. The rebuild was initiated when I had a leaky head gasket on the No. 1 cylinder. Now runs really smooth except for the problem. I feel there is some power loss though at times, but am not sure about that. No check engine codes go on. Much better when warms up.

eiwalker

Listen to my squeak -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGOe0WXnYeE --
what's causing it?

It's a 98 Windstar with 3.8L motor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGOe0WXnYeE

dechant

Our 1998 Windstar, 3.8 L motor, blew a head gasket at 150,000 miles. We have a lead on a 1995 Tarus motor, 3.0 L. Is it possible, and advisable, to replace the 3.8 with the 3.0??

Thanks for any information. S. Dechant

jeffyscott

I asked about this once when we were considering getting a rebuilt engine for ours. I was told it would be more expensive to do that than to just put in the 3.8. I think I was told that a lot of other parts would need to be changed to put the 3.0 in.

dsario

did you every get this fixed?

dabblerz

It was just a loose wire to the computer. Works fine now.

corrollasadnes

I have a 2003 Ford windstar. It was roughing rough only when it rained. I changed the plugs and wires. It now beagn to idle rough when idleing. I reset the ECU according to the owners manual to no avail. Now it is running rough all the time and feels like it is misfiring. The engine code reads :running lean" in both banks. ANy help, I am thinking obout changing the MAFS. fule filter, and/or fuel pump. but do not want to waste money. Also I did not by the plugs from the Fored dealer as I do not have a fortune to spend on this gargage. Any advice?

dannyb67

I know someone who is selling a 95 Ford Windstar. Here is the problem it has 300,000 miles on it and a second tranny on it. What is the engine life on these vehicles?

jeffyscott

I have no idea, but I would certainly think 300K mi is way above average for any engine.

gworley

99 just done tune up still has spark knock 87 octane heard mass airflow sensor may be culprit any advice ">

jerseydave21

One of the cornering lamp bulbs is burned out on my 2001 sel Windstar and is there an easy way to replace the bulb ?
Thanks.....Dave.

blaze4x4

I've recently purchased a 2001 SE Sport with 46,000 miles. I had the dealer put new tires on it. Took it back to have them re-balance to try and eliminate a vibration that happens ~70 mph. They performed a pressure balance, which replicates the tires being on the vehicle. Vibration still there. Now I'm thinking it's in the transmission (Torque Converter). Anyone have this same experience?

vschopp

Did you get this resolved..I have a 96 doing the same thing....

jeff68

I solved the problem by taking off the upper intake manifold and cleaning the EGR ports. 130,000+ miles seems to be the magic number when the ports clog.

I found that this site has good pictures on it.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

Like others on the net, this is not too bad a job for do it yourself. 4-5 hours. $5 can of intake cleaner, some rags and a bent paper clip to open the ports. Don't know why mechanics want $500 to do it. :shades:

beverage

I have a 1995 3.8 winstar. When I started it at work the check engine light came on. The idle seems off or miss fires. However, the engine temp stayed normal. I understand there are three sensors that can effect the idle, and can cause the check engine light to come on. Does any know what the three sensors are? help....

vrodriguez

I purchase a 1998 Windstar, in Aug 98, while stationed in Germany and now after 144,000 the engine whent caput. My family and I were spending the weekend with my son when this mishap took place. It was towed to the nearest, which happens to be the biggest, Ford dealer in the area. The floor supervisor called me to informed me that after attempting to get it running they realized the engine was gone. To me, it sounds like a push rod broke off in two and it's bouncing all over the place. He inmediately told me that the engine had to be replaced, because of the possible damage the loose part could've created and also the head gasket was blownand stated that he has seen to many to know that the engine is gone. I called my son and asked him to look in the parking lot for oil stains, which were none. I called the tow truck gentleman and he also stated that there was no oil leak. Now, I'm between the rock and the hard place. The dealer is asking for $5,000 for the engine swap and refuse to take the engine apart to see what the extend of the damage really is. Any suggestions, comments, ideas??????? My wife loves the van and in between little things is has been good to us. Up until the day it broke down, it ran like when it was brand new. Please Advice, Help. Thanks!

jeffyscott

I sure would not put anything close to $5000 into a 10 year old windstar with 144K mi.

I'd either scrap it and buy another vehicle or put a used engine in it...you could surely buy a newer and lower mileage windstar for way under $5000. You could also consider a rebuilt engine, but that would also likely cost more than the van is worth...but not by as much as a $5000 new engine.

vrodriguez

I was thinking about selling it to a junk yard, but the only person I found will only offered $200. I told him that the van had 4 brand new tires worth over $400. He wouldn't pay over 200.00.

Thanks for the advise!

teneubec

gas is squirting out of the fuel pres.reg. on the fuel rail (fuel injection), is there a way to replace the FPR, or do I have to replace the whole rail.

teneubec

jeffyscott

Maybe he'd give you the $200 and let you keep the tires???

It might be worth close to that $200 as scrap metal.

noodles1999

you can get more then that for just the metal alone....take off the catalytic converter and get at least $50.00 for just that.....strip it and sell the tires.......

vrodriguez

Thanks for the advise. It will be taken into consideration. Considering placing it in my backyards and selling it for parts, Ha!

vrodriguez

Thanks for the advise. It will be taken into consideration. Considering placing it in my backyard and selling it for parts, Ha!

varix3d

I've got a Windstar, car is realable, and start on any condition, snow, rain etc.
The problem is that i need to let the car heatup 5 min on bad weather, i've got no Kickdown on hightway, and on the street if i press the gaz pedale, the engine don't give me any boost, or power, it seem that the truck can't breathe it seems that the cataliseur is the probleme or the senseur, i want to change those part, 2 Catalytic on it.
Would that solve the power and the kickdown.

heyitsme

Can anyone please tell me how you remove the radiator in a 2002 Ford Windstar LX

okaybabs

This is the first time am attempting to use Ford. I purchased 1995 Windstar GL in Lome Togo just a week ago, but before it could be driven to my Town, the gasket burned on the way, due to overheating. Please what do i do. Now we have not even find the gasket to buy, and the car is still left on the highway in the bush. the part is scarce and very expensive compared to those of other cars. Please how can this overheating be rectified. The temprature guage and the fuel guage needls are never on Zero even when the electrical system is not on; engine is not running and is completely at rest. please help. The vehicle was said to have been imported from America. Could this problem be due to aclimation to African weather?, help me, my mechanic couldnt tell what the cause is.

mfacdgba33

take some carberator cleaner and spray around the intake gaskets while the engine is running. if you hear the engine idle down or want to die then those dang intake o rings are bad on that one or more than one windstars have a bad problem with those intake gaskets.

varix3d

I'Ve got some problem trying to find out why my Windstar doesn't have power.

I had problem with the catalitic then decide to simply clean it up in a way, i then change all the sparkplug, and still car doesn't have engin power, it's like the engin can't give me full power.

I know it's a old car and i cant do Kickdown, the transmission is not 100% perfect, the problem is really about power, even on PARK, if i press the gaz pedal, engin wont run smooth, and increase to 4rpm, i can barelly get to 2rmp.

What could be the problem ?
Could it really be about the catalic would it be the best solution to remove them, since they cost a bundle to fix.
I try to punch a hole in them ( sorry i dont have the proper term )
I notice i've got one Catalic sensor or two that are broke, would this prevent the engin to give his full power ?

On the hightway, at 100 or 120 kl, car run smooth, little bump sometime, but overall engin is smooth, but i cant accellarate like any other truck.

Any suggestion
Thx
Sam

dalip

i have a 1996 windstar 3.8 l
on the stop sign the idle is very low and the car want to die and oil light cams on
when i put on park is ok
i replaced idle sensor
still same problem i send to the mechanic i put the code reader and the codes are
1- p0401 2- p1538 bank 1 3- p1537 bank 2
i replacet bank 1 and 2 still same problem
in the start when car starts is ok after 5 minutes driving starts the problem

any idea

lesabre500

I went to start my 1996 Windstar, has only 90,000 miles on it and it blew the oil pan half off. Ever hear of that? I am disabled, without a vehicle and nobody can explain what happened to me. I turned the key and BOOM! in the engine and all my oil was on the parking lot in about 2 seconds. There is a 3 inch hole in the oil pan. I'd appreciate any ideas as to what happened. One guy wants $300.00 just to pull the pan off which is ridiculous. If I had 2 good legs I could do it in an hour. The thing is, I need to figure out what did it to determine if I have severe internal damage. Would ether in the gas tank or something else that's explosive do this?

I need some answers and don't want to replace the pan and find out it's not worth doing. There must be some sort of test or explaination for this. This van was running fine and is in mint shape as well. It'd be a shame to scrap it for the wrong reason.
If you have any ideas, please contact me.

Thanks, Steve

ryga7072

Engine would die right after ignition. Would spit and sputter, idling at very low RPM if I kept pushing gas pedal and slowly released. If I could get it in gear w/out it stopping, then it would run until I stopped to get gas or go to the store etc. But after a few hours of not starting it will start again. It will back fire while try to start it. This problem comes and goes. I have replaced the intake gasket (1 large gasket) 6 smaller round gaskets and 8 bolts with gaskets on them for the intake manifold. (As per the ford service group)
Please....some one help.

rayden19

I own a 2000 Windstar and noticed that the vehicle would randomly die when I come to a stop. Does not happen all the time though. It also putters when I start it and then dies. It will start up again within a couple of seconds. I am not getting a check engine light at all. While in park or idle, RPM's are at about 600. :surprise:

Anyone out there have the same problem?

gworley

hi rayden had similar issue on a 99 found out problem was coming from distributer shaft located at the back of motor on passenger side not an easy task . a haynes or shiltons book is very usefull .the shaft and gear sometimes wears out.
gworley

slms1

I have a 2002 Ford Windstar and have had to replace the intake gaskets, MAF and now the upper intake manifold. This last repair seems to have done the trick, the car is running fine, but the engine light is still on. It is now reading possible codes of oxygen sensor, inginition misfire and again the MAF and of course the good old adages of lean fuel codes bank 1 and 2. Please help...its symptoms of kicking while idling and acting like the engine was revving have stopped. I am putting alot of money in this car and really can't afford any more. Does anyone have any suggestions?

rayden19

gworley,

thanks for the reply. My Windstar also lopes when I start it and then dies if I don't press the gas pedal. I can let it sit for about ten seconds and pump the gas and it will be ok for about two days. No check engine light at all though.

rcarlisle

Could be the mass air flow sensor, or fuel pressure regulator going bad. Also, sometimes a more simpler fix is hard to find, but there is usually an idle screw adjustment on the throttle housing or which used to be where the "carbuerator" was on older models. sometimes wear occurs there, and all you have to do is adjust the idling screw up a bit to solve the problem, mechanics at shops overlook this adjustment frequently, a simple fix usually with this screw, but it is sometimes hidden and hard to see, just trace the accelerator linkage and you will find it! Hope this is of some help.

rcarlisle

Could be gas filter or gas cap, (1) The first thing I ALWAYS do is add try adding a bottle or two of "Heat" gas treatment to no more than 10 gallons of gas, never hurts! Also there is a mass air flow sensor, or fuel pressure regulator that could be going bad, there are many, many more things it COULD be. (2) sometimes a more simpler fix, and the screw is hard to find, but there is usually an idle screw adjustment on the main Injection port or throttle housing which used to be in the area where the "carbuerator" set on older models, and all you have to do is adjust the idling screw up a bit to solve the problem, mechanics at shops overlook this adjustment frequently, a simple fix by idling up the engine a bit with this screw, has fixed several for me! but it is sometimes hidden and hard to see, just trace the accelerator linkage and you will find it! This may not solve everyone's problems, but hope this is of some help to a few.

fadl

I had a similar problem and replacing the spark plugs fixed it for a short while. One of the spark plugs was dirty, the problem went away after it was replaced.

slms1

We did a tune up on Thursday, the plugs were dirty, didn't help. The car started acting up again. We had it at the mechanics on Thursday morning, did a smoke test and there were no leaks, but it is an obvious vacuum issue. I spoke to someone Saturday night that told me its the lower intake, this leak doesn't show up on a smoke test. He said there is a rod that goes through the lower intake and it has something like a neoprene sleeve around it. The sleeve wears out and slips into the manifold causing the leak. He thinks replacing this will take care of the whole problem. I can't talk my husband into buying a new vehicle and this is at least a $600 repair I am told, on top of the $1000 we have already sunk into it. I will let you know if and when we repair it, if it was the problem. All I know is I am ready to junk it, I don't want to be on the highway with kids in tow and breakdown.

bwomack1

Hello,
My WS was idling rough so I got a tuneup and oil change @ 100K miles. A couple of weeks later the oil light came on; I checked and I was almost dry.

Took it back to the mechanic who said I need a valve cover kit.

Took it to another mechanic today who agreed with the first guy's diagnostic code (vacuum seal leak?) but he says I'm losing too much oil for the valve kit to fix the problem.

Expl: I put in 2 quarts 3 days ago and today I've lost a quart of it.

Mechanic #2 fears the problem is in the motor but won't know until taking things apart (costly).

Does anyone have any advice?

slms1

I agree with you on costly. I found out from several mechanics that this rough idling thing that I am experiencing was also causing my engine to leak oil. They told me a that a vacuum leak in the manifold can cause oil to leak from the engine. We only replaced the upper manifold and no leaking now, but still rough idling. I spoke to another mechanic, again and he said if and when we replaced the upper manifold, if we didn't clean out the EGR valves then this could be cause enough for the rough idle. So one night this week we are going to try this and see if it will fix it. My advice, I know dealers are expensive, but after talking to this last guy, our neighbor who we just found out is a Ford mechanic, said it is totally worth it to at least come in and get a diagnosis for $90 and they can pinpoint the problem and tell you how to fix it if you want to save yourself lots of money.

I will let you know how this all turns out for the idling problem.

rgrandam1

:confuse: Van was sounding like a truck, idleing crappy, like an idle surge. Husband put in a new flex pipe after the cat. The sound went away but the van was still running rough. Idle when in park is like vamps up, vamps down. Not a continus smooth idle. While driving it has no pick up, when taking off from a stop at times it stalls out. :P Engine light came on and my husband then replace the air filter, gas filter, and then the engine light went off and remained off. When on highway and trying to pass or climbing a hill at top speed it bogs down but there is a whineing sound. He changed the transmission fluid and filter and put transmission lucas in it. He also adjusted the idle speed screw and it ran a little bit better for a week and then it started acting up again. He adjusted it again today, did a vacmune check on egr valvle OK. and gas pressure regulator. was OK as well. the idle still not smooth but driving is alittle bit better and no stalling at stops signs when i take off. He also changed the crank sencor no change.. Ok so HELP what is the heck wrong with it.

seloo

Try cleaning or replacing the ICV.

Good Luck

rgrandam1

Hello I have no reverse I have all forwad gears ok reverse not engageing. Ichanged fluid and filter. The owner just realized that the reverse took longer to engage for a while then when I moved it to change fluid the reverse was not there. Please can anyone tell me what could ti be Thanks

dabblerz

I have a 1997 Ford Windstar with a rebuilt engine. Because of engine corrosion and gasket problem the engine leaked and failed. I had it rebuilt but the problem has arisen again. The leak is somewhere under the timing cover I think. I tried a silica leak stop solution put in and that solved it for a couple of months. Is there anything that is better for my situation?

rgrandam1

Hollo there I'm sorry took so long to get things done. Now i have done thus far is replaced lower inatake gasgets upper plenum gasgets, new EGR,new IPS,new MAF,new plugs,wires,new CRKS,new CAMS,ICV, gas filter air filter, :sick: and just yesturday Sat 4/11/2009 comprsstion check all cyls are at 175to180 psi. Still have rugh idle allite more power still have od problem press to floor will go into passing put boggs down instead ove a bust. Ck engine finaly came on now I'm getting code p171 lean bank 1.thats it . Thanks Richard

windstarr2

I have a windstar 2000 3.8l engine and i am trying to replace the plastic ends for the rods for me intergrated manafold run control switch. i need to download an exploded view of this imrc switch from the web or etc. at no cost. help! help!

gemini75

well i just found out that i have been putting the wrong spark plugs in the damn thing they take either double platinum or ridium the 2 most expensive plugs and even though you take care of the van the engine and tranny will go out even if you replace it with a new one, the ford dealer told me yesterday that i need to get a new vehicle i told him i wanted to replace both engine and tranny, he said i would not even take your money een if you told me to, the engine sound raggedy and my oil light comes on they said it is the pump or the barrings but reading all te other post it is best that you go and trade your an to get something else, cause thats what im going to do dont spend any more money cause the car is messed up and it wont make a difference even if another mechanic can fix the problem it wont change anything, so please get another vehicle. :sick:

gemini75

try shucks or auto zone but mine does that to

gemini75

if your putting all that money into them i suggest you just something different not a windstar, they are good vans to start out with but they go way down hill afterwards thats what the ford dealer repair man told me they have taurus engines in them so they if you have a taurus with the same problem you know what to do already dont waste your money get something new, cars are not an investment get your money worth out of a vehicle not put all your money into it, dont trust mechanics who say they can fix it and it will be fine cause it wont. :sick: