Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Nissan Pathfinder

11415171920158

Comments

  • Options
    sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    I also have the duelers. I agree Michilen LTXs are better. I have had no problems with my Duelers. They are quiet and handle rain well. I tend to be fairly aggressive and don't tend to slow much in the rain. The duelers havn't let me down yet. I only hope I can still post if they ever do.
  • Options
    johnpurdumjohnpurdum Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Pathfinder SE 4X4 that has had a vibration in the steering since the day I purchased it. The dealer has looked at the vehicle several times, replaced tires with the Michelin LTX and balanced them at least 4 different times but cannot get rid of the problem. The vibration is only between 60 and 75 MPH. Other than that it runs fine. They have now ordered a new rack and pinion but cannot assure me that this will fix the problem.
    I really do like this car except for the problem with the vibration. The dealer is aware of the problem but cannot figure out what is wrong.
  • Options
    rob0975rob0975 Member Posts: 17
    Hello,
    Ive had my PF SE 01 for just a few months..I have a little over 3000 miles and it hasnt given me any trouble..The reason I am thinking about selling it is because it is just too much for me..
    I am single and very rarely make use of the room
    the PF has..In fact I think I had someone in the rear seat once..I think I need something more like a F-150 or something like that..Im not sure how to go about selling this without putting an ad in the paper..I figured i'd come here for suggestions..The reviews from here is what helped me choose the PF..If anyone is interested im in NJ..It's a black SE,tan sport interior,6-cd,moonroof,4wd,loaded,cloth seats..Asking $30,000 or b/o
    -Rob(rob0975@aol.com)
  • Options
    pathy57pathy57 Member Posts: 25
    Its been a several hundred post back where some of the other owners was talking about the same problem and there was a special way the dealers had to balance the tires. You might want to take the time to go back through all the Pathfinder responses and find out just exactly how that problem was resolved. It will take some time to find unless someone else out here can remember or has something bookmarked. Good Luck and enjoy your Pathfinder.
  • Options
    loboyloboy Member Posts: 75
    rmiyamoto: The temp gauge on my LE is also reading slightly below the mid mark. If your temp reading is indeed this high, I would definitely have the dealer look at it. High temp is disasterous to the seals and bearings and could eventually lead to engine problems if not taken care of. Hope it is just a sensor. Good luck.
  • Options
    sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    John,
    You may be experiencing the "shimmy" many posters have had. See Post #538 on this board. Smithmd graciously reposted a Nissan TSB or "NSB" on it there. I plan to take my PF in for the run on the Shimmy monday. Interestingly, my shimmy went away when I rotated the tires at 5k miles and returned when they were again rotated at 10k miles. You may have to have the index balancing performed.
  • Options
    sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
  • Options
    jblaze13jblaze13 Member Posts: 152
    I'm getting ready to purchase a 01' SE. Before I found out I could get the VPP price through my company, I'd negotiated a price of $29500 for exactly what you describe with a different color interior. I don't know what the market will hold in your neck of the woods, but your price seems a bit high.
  • Options
    marleyboymarleyboy Member Posts: 7
    I bought a QX4 in December. I would like to find out the fluid capacities for the vehicle (other
    than the engine oil and gasoline) -- the
    automatic transmission, the limited slip
    differential, the all wheel drive (AWD) transfer
    case, and the brakes. But my owners manual
    does not have the information (it only tells you
    the fluid capacity for the engine oil), and I
    cannot find anyone at my dealer who knows the
    answers. I've already posted a message on the
    QX4 board, but since I figure the QX4 and the
    Pathfinder LE (at least the AWD version) would
    have pretty similar (or identical) capacities,
    I thought I would post here too.

    Can anyone assist? Thanks!!
  • Options
    twodalstwodals Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2001 LE which had the vibration (shimmy) between 60-70 mph. I was able to get a copy of the Nissan TSB so I knew what to tell the dealer when I went in. It took 3 trips back but it is gone...thank GOD. Here is what they did: balanced the tires on a regular balancing machine (3 tries and could not correct it). Then they replaced the tires with Bridgestone "super" tires and had them indexed. My dealer did not have the right equipment and had to send the wheels and tires to another larger Nissan dealer to have them indexed. That cured about 90% of the shimmy. Lastly, they adjusted the steering rack and that got rid of the last 10%. It was a huge hassle but worth it. By the way I also called 1-800- Nissan1 and complained very loudly after the first attempt to correct the problem. I think it helped because dealer was much more attentive and willing to listen after I made that call.
  • Options
    meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    engine oil with filter change is 5.1/4 qts
    Cooling system with reservoir is 9.3/4 qts.
    Transfer fluid Dexron III/Mercon 3.1/8 qts.
    Front differential GL-5 3.7/8 pts.
    Rear differential Gl-5 approved for LSD 5.7/8pts.
    80W/90 is perfered for the differentials
    I use Amsoil in the differentials and have a Amsoil
    foam air filter.
    Automatic transmission Dexron III/Mercon 9 qts,
    This is out of a 2001 PF Service Manual.
    Hope this helps....
  • Options
    winnyvwinnyv Member Posts: 30
    Do you notice any improvement in power with Amsoil
    filter?What is the part # and how much did you pay?
  • Options
    meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    Some have commented on the accuracy of the thermometer. I checked
    mine and found it to be within1/2 deg F or better. These thermometers are only accurate if the vehicle speed is over 15 mph for 100 sec. This is so the thermometer does not pick up any heat from the engine. The senser is in front of the radiator on the piller. You have to drive the vehicle for several minutes before the thermometer reads accurate. It updates itself every 40 sec. You cannot get into the vehicle turn the key on and read the thermometer. I hope this helps alittle.
  • Options
    meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    The amsoil stock number is 74. I don't know if I get more horsepower
    I think it has enough. I might get better fuel economy and I know it filters
    better than the paper filter. I think I paid about $28. Some have used K&N
    but if you see the SAE J726C Test Method the K&N only partly filtered out the
    large particles. Cheers........
    www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/air.filters.html
  • Options
    tonychrystonychrys Member Posts: 1,310
    Well, I drove the '97 Pathy SE for the last time Friday. We dropped it off at the local appraiser for the leasing company. What's really weird is that I pull into the parking lot (with my wife following me) and parked next to a Black RX300 w/ivory leather interior exactly like the one I'm getting! It was so weird standing in the parking lot looking at both vehicles side-by-side... almost like the passing of the torch from the old to the new. It really freaked me out and I'm taking it as a good sign.

    And yes, my wife got plenty of pictures of the Pathy (mainly to protect ourselves in case the leasing company balked at the condition, which was great). We had no problems turning it in, the appraiser wrote zero damage on the report.

    Was suppose to pick up the new ride yesterday, but due to bad weather and my bank not clearing funds fast enough, will pick up tomorrow (hopefully).

    Will still check in here from time to time to get that "Pathy" feeling. This group is definitely one of the better bunch of folks in Townhall.

    Happy Motoring!

    TC
  • Options
    sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    Thanks for the info on the outside temp gauge. I did notice that the temp gauge more closely approximated true outside temp after a few minutes of driving. Still, it is at least 5-7 degrees too high even after a long interstate trip. It is even worse in the summer. I'm getting acustomed to subtracting 7 degrees F from the reading to get a close gauge.
  • Options
    meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    Have you asked the dealer to replace the temp senser or the thermometer/
    compass unit? It's independent from the main computer. Cheers......
  • Options
    sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    Haven't asked him directly to replace it, but did ask them to check it out. They acknowledged it was reading high, but checked in 5 other PFs on the lot, and they all were the same. They didn't think replacing it would do much good. I didn't want them mucking around with factory fit if it wouldn't provide any benefit. This is only a minor annoyance with me. I still love this vehicle. Especially when I think about the 42k (msrp) Expedition we have had in the shop 6 times for a gas leak. We just have had the gas tank replaced along with a short list of other attachments, not to mention the rattles it already has now at 8000 miles. Glad the PF is my primary vehicle.
  • Options
    dennis1950dennis1950 Member Posts: 33
    Has anyone tried to remove the tonneau cover? If so, how did you do it. These are a nuisance when loading up the back.
  • Options
    sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    firm upward pressure. I have to bump it up with my fist on each side. It is a tight fit.
  • Options
    apb3apb3 Member Posts: 11
    I Test Drove a 98 PF on Saturday with a view to purchase. I really liked the vehicle but thought it was a little noisy on acceleration. Once at cruising speed, the level was fine. Are all PF's noisy during acceleration?? The rep explained that the air filter is mounted high in the engine compartment and was the cause. Is he BS'ing me or is this normal. Otherwise, great vehicle, I am on my way to the bank!!
  • Options
    tonychrystonychrys Member Posts: 1,310
    He was BSing you. Any PF before the MY2001 version will have an under powered engine for an SUV of this size. We just turned in our '97 PF, while adequate at highway speeds, standing start accelaration is nothing to write home about, and can be "loud" as the engine is pushed.

    Just as a comparison, go test drive a 2001 and feel/hear the remarkable difference.

    TC
  • Options
    apb3apb3 Member Posts: 11
    I Test Drove a 98 PF on Saturday with a view to purchase. I really liked the vehicle but thought it was a little noisy on acceleration. Once at cruising speed, the level was fine. Are all PF's noisy during acceleration?? The rep explained that the air filter is mounted high in the engine compartment and was the cause. Is he BS'ing me or is this normal. Otherwise, great vehicle, I am on my way to the bank!!
  • Options
    crikeycrikey Member Posts: 1,041
    I agree with jblaze13, the asking price seems a bit high especially since you can get a brand-new one at the same or lower price. It might be hard to resell a vehicle this new. If I were you, I would hold on to it for a while so that you can avoid getting hit by depreciation. Maybe after a year or two, or if you can find a dealer that would give you a good trade-in value for it. Of course, this is just a suggestion. Good Luck.
  • Options
    apb3apb3 Member Posts: 11
    I Test Drove a 98 PF on Saturday with a view to purchase. I really liked the vehicle but thought it was a little noisy on acceleration. Once at cruising speed, the level was fine. Are all PF's noisy during acceleration?? The rep explained that the air filter is mounted high in the engine compartment and was the cause. Is he BS'ing me or is this normal. Otherwise, great vehicle, I am on my way to the bank!!
  • Options
    crikeycrikey Member Posts: 1,041
    I think tonychrys responded to your inquiry already and his assessment seems to be dead on the money. (Unless you are reloading your page all the time, causing your post to be logged in 3 times?) :).
  • Options
    apb3apb3 Member Posts: 11
    Sorry for the reposting, new to Town Hall and used the refresh to check for responses. Thanks for the info, I guessed that I was getting the hard sell, Iv'e had to phone calls from the dealer toady already. I'm slightly concerned about the under power aspect. I tow a boat, 850lb plus 300lb trailer, am I going to have problems?? do I need a tranny cooler?? I currently tow it with a voyager van so I guess the PF must be better than that!!
  • Options
    mpg5mpg5 Member Posts: 68
    have owned truck for 14 mos. last work done was an oil chg approx 2.5 mos ago. have 59,900 miles. new brakes at 41,000. i've noticed a burning plastic/rubber smell coming from rear wheel well area after driving for only a few miles. could parking brake be hanging up? it has been below freezing mostly. it almost smells like tire burnout, but i've noticed no uneven tire wear. any help much appreciated, thanks. by the way i haven't noticed any change in handling,ie) brakes hanging up.
  • Options
    highuphighup Member Posts: 31
    I checked the service manual and it lists possible faults that will trip a blinking or steady "service engine soon" conditon. I suspect the fault was caused by the gas cap not clicked on tight after a topping off last Fiday. The owner's manual states if the gas cap is not fully clicked tight, the light may come on. It's also printed on the gas cap. The service manual is more specific and states that the light will be on steady after 2 driving trips if this fault is not corrected. This tightening till it clicks is new to me so I might not have done so Friday. The manual further states that the light will reset (go off) after 3 driving trips provided the fault is no longer detected. The drive to work this morning is the 2nd trip after the cap had been fully clicked so we'll see. Anyone else experienced this?
  • Options
    tonychrystonychrys Member Posts: 1,310
    Is he a Nissan dealer? If so, have him pull up the towing specs on the vehicle. If the vehicle has the manual in the glove box, have him look it up. I don't have my PF owners manual anymore or I would have looked it up for you. Maybe someone else can help.

    TC
  • Options
    smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    I have a '99.5 Pathy with essentially the same motor as the '98 you're looking at. I have a 15' V-hull (1960) with a trailer that is a converted farm trailer (pre-1960). I'm guessing that my set-up weighs at least as much as yours with my gear in the boat (including a 1968 Merc 6 horse that weighs more than current day 15 horse motors). I hardly notice it's back there. With this light load I usually leave O/D off until I get over 60 mph. You will have no problems towing your boat with the Pathy.
  • Options
    smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    My '99.5 book says auto-tranny Pathy's are rated at 5,000 pounds and manual-tranny Pathy's are rated at 3,500. If you have an Automatic transmission, you'd probably have to get more than a loaded 21' fiberglass boat to get above the rated limit.
  • Options
    pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    The only time I've ever used the tailgate glass release has been when washing the vehicle (to clean/wax under it).
    Finally had a chance to check out the complaints about the rear hatch release locking the doors (have the flu so didn't dare play in the cold). I checked the Electronic shop manual and physically played with the keyswitch. If you turn the switch clockwise it releases the hatch glass lock and locks the doors, as stated before. You can then turn the keyswitch counter-clockwise twice (within 5 secs.) and unlock all the doors again. I think Nissan chose this operation as the least of the problem causers. See below for explaination. There are two wires on the switch (on a connector in the tailgate). I think if the pins in the connector are reversed the switch should work more logically. I'm going to try this when the weather warms up. My reasoning is that since counter-clockwise is supposed to be unlock, and clockwise is supposed to be lock, why would clockwise unlock the glass? Reversing the pins would make clockwise unlock (tailgate would unlock and glass would unlatch with one turn, all locks would unlock with two turns as well as glass unlatching). All doors would lock if turned counter-clockwise. I suppose they were trying to protect us from unlatching the glass and then throwing the tailgate up.
    So, there are two "fixes" here I think.
    1. Live with the way it is, remembering to turn the keyswitch counterclockwise twice after releasing the glass.
    2. Rewire it, then always remembering to relatch the glass before lifting the tailgate.
    Life is full of compromises.
  • Options
    apb3apb3 Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the info guys. I knew the towing limit of 5000lb but another source advised on fitting a tranny cooler. My boat is not that heavy so I shouldn't have too much problem pulling it. I think I shall go for the PF, keep it a couple of years then trade for another lease return - 3.5l version.
  • Options
    poswaldposwald Member Posts: 38
    Thanks pathstar for all of the info. But the way I see it, the real problem with the rear hatch glass is that you cannot open it via either the keychain remote or from the cockpit. Just about every other make allows you to do this and it should be standard. Having to use the key to open the glass is a HUGE inconvenience when carrying groceries, kids or other stuff that you want to put back there. I can not open my rear hatch to put stuff in when in my garage with the door down but i can open the glass...the only problem is that I have to always have the key handy to do so. Toyota offers on the remote the ability to lower the rear window (it is powered) using the keychain remote. A very neat feature.
    This is the biggest complaint on my 01 PF.
  • Options
    nismofreaknismofreak Member Posts: 120
    Yup... I went through that one weekend. Filled 'er up and forgot to put back the cap. (DOH!)

    However, I didn't have to make "multiple trips" for the check engine light to go off. Within 16 miles (single trip) of putting the gas cap back on (DOH!) the light went out.
  • Options
    xplorer2xplorer2 Member Posts: 17
    I came across my biggest complaint this morning, and it's more of a safety concern than a complaint. When pulling out of a side street that had a bit of snow cover left on it and merging into oncoming traffic, the car spun out of control and I fish tailed and ended up sideways. I had not accelerated very fast, and thankfully so, because I would have flipped it otherwise. My question is, who has AWD, and is there a way to convert my '01 LE stick shift to AWD without a big hassle? I am feeling unsafe suddenly in a vehicle I've felt safe in for the past 7 months since getting it.
  • Options
    johnskevjohnskev Member Posts: 98
    i'm not sure of the setup on the Pathfinder, but my QX4 has a button/lever on the driver side door (just under the armrest) to pop the rear window. it's next to the gas cover release button.

    kj
  • Options
    drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    An LE stick shift? That's the first time I've heard of that combo. I thought that all LE's were autos (at least in Canada).

    Sorry to read about your mishap. I'm glad that you were not injured and your vehicle was not damaged. Unfortunately, there is no way that you can convert your part-time 4WD system to the auto 4WD system. They're completely different and Nissan doesn't even offer the auto 4WD system with the manual tranny Pathfinder (I assume there are some sort of compatability issues). Even if you could, it would require major surgery and lots of $$. Definitely not worth it.

    I guess you now know why I keep suggesting to those with the auto 4WD system to leave it in auto mode at all times. There isn't always enough time to pull the 4WD lever/flick the switch to avoid problems.

    FWIW, anytime the rear wheels start to spin on ANY vehicle, directional stability is immediately lost and the vehicle's rear end starts looking for a curb or a ditch. Perhaps you could've activated 4WD before coming to a stop and pulling out into traffic? You mentioned there was some snow, so that wouldn't have been too bad for the PT4WD system. Of course, you'll have to switch back to 2WD once you're back on non-snow covered roads again. Another thing that you could try if you're on that sort of surface again is starting out in 2nd gear instead of first (in 2WD mode, that is). This will provide the rear wheels with less torque and they'll be less likely to break free and spin, hence causing the skid.

    Take care!

    Drew
    Host
    Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • Options
    crikeycrikey Member Posts: 1,041
    Yeah, I'm with Drew on this one. As far as I know, the LEs come with Automatic tranny standard and I think that manual tranny is available on SE models only. Unless, xplorer2's PF is custom ordered. I haven't heard anyone custom order a PF but it's probable.

    But, I'm glad that you escaped unscathed, xplorer2.
  • Options
    florczakflorczak Member Posts: 3
    I almost wiped out in my 01 LE on Christmas trying to merge onto an Interstate. OEM tires, IMHO, never seem to work very well in snow and ice. I put Bridgestone Winter Duelers on rims from TireRack, and it made a world of difference.
  • Options
    pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    You wouldn't want to try to switch from a manual trans. or standard automatic to the AUTO 4wheel drive version. You would have to change the transmission, as the clutch is built into it. You could talk to your dealer. He may be willing to give you a reasonable trade-up cost. In Canada, all LEs are AUTO 4wheel drive, but I suspect in the US there are more options.

    The second comment is the way I would go if I were you. Use 4WD in the winter unless the road is bare. You can shift in and out of 4 HI while moving. That's what I have always done on my Toyotas (Landcruisers, and 4Runner). You will not do any damage using 4WD unless the road is bare, and then the vehicle will tell you to shift (very hard to turn - vehicle slows down when turning etc.). You can get away with using 4WD on bare roads, it just wears out the tires, differentials, and transmission faster, but with "shift-on-the-fly" it's not an issue.
  • Options
    smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    I think what you meant was not that you have a standard transmission, but that you do have part-time 4wd on your LE. When I'm in the situation you mentioned, I'll use 4wd to pull out into the traffic and then as soon as I safely can (once I'm in my lane), I'll get out of 4wd. That means that I've use 4wd for maybe 50 yards...most of it in a straight line. I know you aren't supposed to use part-time 4wd on dry pavement, but I'm choosing safety over longevity, although I don't feel that I'm causing any damage by doing this.
  • Options
    gusterguster Member Posts: 4
    Love my PF LE All-Mode I purchased in October. However, there is an annoying rattling sound coming from the rear cargo area and, for the life of me, I can't locate it. I thought it was the cover in the back but I removed it and it still rattles. I have to play music loud to avoid going insane.

    What could this be? I looked everywhere (I think).

    Also, I tore the leather (slightly) in one of the head-rests moving this past weekend. How much will this cost to fix?

    Thanks.

    JM
  • Options
    bgritzbgritz Member Posts: 139
    4WD:
    Like smithmd, I use the 4wd when I need "quality" acceleration from stops, then shift back to 2wd after I am moving along. Here in Denver, they use an exorbitant amount of gravel on the roads and the 4wd to 2wd works great. I don't use it a lot, but it definatly makes a difference!

    Rattle:
    Check the compartment above the spare tire in the cargo area, or the side bin and latches. I had some flares and other emergeny type items in there and they rattled around a bit. I just placed a shop towel down first, placed the items on top of it, then bunched it between the items and it cleared up the rattle.
  • Options
    phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    Check if the latches on the shoulder harnesses are contacting something hard. Check the storage area under the cargo floor (both levels) and the side storage bin and tray. You may also check if the rear wiper arm has engaged the latch properly. You could try opening and closing the rear lift gate and listening for the rattle. Finally, check that the rear seat cushions are locked in position and that nothing underneath them is loose.

    FWIW, I thought a rattling noise was coming from the rear. It turned out to be my sunglasses in the overhead compartment. Cabin noises can play tricks on you....
  • Options
    loboyloboy Member Posts: 75
    Another possibility is the license plate and/or plate holder. I had that happen to me once but on a different vehicle. Is the noise persistent even during cruising or just during sudden motions, ie bumps, turns, etc?
  • Options
    tclubtclub Member Posts: 22
    Looking to replace my current PF, I noticed that the Nissan Booklet says the new 240HP engine PF recommends "Premium Fuel". Is that what I must use? Here in Virginia, the price to Premium is 20 cents a gallon over regular. Will the computer adjust for 87 Octane??? Any help?
  • Options
    drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    I think the new 3.5L V6 engine requires premium fuel. If so, you must use premium fuel except for the occasional one or two tanks of regular or mid-grade. The computer will adjust for the lower octane, but over time, the lower octane fuel will cause premature engine wear/damage. Not only this, but because of the retardation in ignition/spark plug timing (computer compensating for the lower octane), your fuel economy will be lower, hence negating the initial lower cost of regular fuel. I guess it's a case of being penny-wise and pound foolish.


    Drew
    Host
    Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • Options
    meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    I have been using regular unleaded in my PF sence new. The fuel mileage is about
    17 to 21 MPG. The engine has a knock senser and several other devices
    to protect the engine from detonation.(knock). The fuel in most places have
    alcohol in it during the winter witch changes the octane rating and who knows
    how long the super-unleaded fuel has been in the tank at the gas station.
    I think they use benzine and other very volatile additives to make super so
    who know what you are getting. I will keep using fresh reg-unleaded in mine PF
    It might be a good idea to choose the octane you want and keep using it. Some
    computers take awhile to "learn" what type of fuel and some even "learn" your
    driving habits. If you are pulling a trailer,boat,ect. it might not hurt to use super.......Cheers.
Sign In or Register to comment.