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Comments
I think a cross rotation pattern is recommended for our trucks so put the:
put spare tire on driver side rear
move driver side rear to driver side front
move driver side front to passenger side rear
move passenger side rear to passenger side front
move passenger side front to driver side rear (spare tire)
put the spare back on its rack
Thanks, smithmd!
Had a Crimestopper 800-RS installed and paid an extra $25 for remote door lock/unlock (1 remote is better than 2) and an extra $25 to get by the security system.
I sacrificed 1 of the 2 keys for the vehicle, and it make me nervous to only have 1 key available, so I went to the dealer and they quoted me $45 for an extra key. The key would have to be ordered and then all 3 keys would need to be reinitialized to the security system.
Sounded like an expensive pain, so after doing some research, I had a key cut for the doors (a Suzuki blank worked better than the Nissan for some reason). This key would only open the doors, would not even turn the ignition. Once inside the PF I can access the hidden key under the dash which is in a special box tied to the Crimestopper.
Everything works well and the extra key only cost me an extra $1.89 versus $45.00+++
Hope this helps.
I would like to ask if anyone (owners of Pathfinders) are experiencing what I am experiencing recently: a vibration in the steering eel while braking, especially down-hill. My PA is still brand new, I would consider it after 9 months and only 13.800 m...
Basically the dealer told me that front rotors are the cause, but they don't want to replace it, but to "rectify them" ??? After I left the car with them for a whole day, they didn't do anything, but upset me with all kind of questions like how an I braking? when... all carp, and they told me to leave the car again next day so they will fix the rotors... I was very reluctant to do it, and I call on them to to postpone it. But it really seems to get aggravated every day , up to the point where I am starting to question the quality of the braking system...
My old Intrep(eeeee)id use to behave similar after 165, 000 am
By the way this is in Toronto, and the models is PF 2001 SE AWD.
Anyone can give me an advise please ?
Thanks,
-Mike-
Going once
Nice to hear from you.
full5.
Dano
It seems that no one here has the same problem as you based on the lack of responses. Typically, shudder while braking is caused by warped rotors. Can be caused by improper torqueing of lug nuts or a dragging caliper. Rotor replacement is the best, but "turning" the rotors is also acceptable assuming there is sufficient thickness. It sounds like this is what your dealer wants to do. Question them a little more.
-Jon L
Thanks for the explanation. I'm wandering how the dealer would be able to "turn" the rotors at the room temperature, since the problem seems to be thermal induced, it's happening after 5-10 min. driving, but it doesn't right after I wash the car for instance...
As far as the rotors thickens, there should be enough, since the car has only 8,500 miles.
What I'm really questioning is the quality of the steel they used for the rotors on my PF, it might be not homogenous, areas with different thermal dilatation coefficient ( alpha).
Is this a possible scenario?
Thanks
I can see where this can be a compicated problem to understand. It's not just the heat that's at issue here...it's the way it's heated (how hot) and then how quickly it's cooled...and how often.
Brakes transform the vehicles's kinetic energy (motion) into heat. Excessive heat, rapid cooling and numerous heat cycles are what cause warping. The biggest problem isn't rapid brake heating, it's rapid cooling. In the typical undersized passenger-car brake system, this shows up as high peak temperatures from a hard stop, followed by chilling from either long periods between hard stops or parking the vehicle.
Picture a warped rotor like a bicycle wheel that's out of true. The bike wheel wobbles from side to side as the bike moves forward. Now, apply that to a brake rotor that is warped in...likely several...places throughout one complete revolution. Now spin this rotor at 70 MPH and you get a picture of what's happening at highway speeds. Now try to slow that high-speed, spinning, warped rotor (disc) with a couple of organic brake pads attempting to clamp on to its sides while it's spinning. You are going to feel anything from a pulsing to a shimmying steering wheel to a vehicle that shudders violently depending on how bad the warpage is.
How do you cure this once it's happened? You "turn" (or re-surface)the rotors. Picture a machine shop putting your rotor into a lathe and spinning it just like it would spin on your vehicle. They then apply a cutting tool to the brake surface and literally shave away the high spots. They do this to both sides until the finished product is a straight disc. Unfortunately, though turning a warped rotor in a brake lathe will bring it back to true, this reduces its mass so it will warp more quickly next time (the more mass, the more easily it can handle fluctuations in heat).
Now, we're also dealing with a heavy vehicle that requires larger diameter rotors and more mass than, let's say...and Acura Integra. It looks like Nissan has equipped the Pathfinder with a decent braking system due to the lack of customer complaints about warping. As I used to say when I was in the bicycle business (mechanic/manager/owner), "If it happens to 50 bikes out of 100, it's our problem...if it happens to 1 bike out of 100, it's the customer's problem." Not an absolute, but a good general guide line.
That vibration will cause additional (undue) stress on every component in the vehicle including, but not limited to, expensive steering components (tie-rod ends, pinion and rack, idler arms, etc...). Bottom line, I'd say to get them turned by your dealer so they are running true. This should be at relatively small cost, if any. If you continue to have trouble, replacing them might be in order.
I run the canyons of Malibu on a regular basis and so, far...no troubles. When I get down to PCH, the brakes are SMOKIN'!!!!...I then drive (and brake) for another 10 or so miles home so it may allow them to cool more slowly. I spent $1400 on my last car (Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4) upgrading the rotors (cross-drilled/slotted Brembo's), pads (Kevlar), brake fluid (Dot5), stainless steel lines (Stillen), etc...Just to try to improve the brake's abilities and durability. You gotta love the canyons!
I hope this helps...
Captain Ron. . .
Thanks
I have a 2001 LE, 5 months, 11,000miles and I am beginning to experience the same problem you mentioned. It is not excessive, but noticable when braking! I didn't think much of it, but after captain ron's description, I think I should bring it in for a checkup? I take it this is not covered under warranty? Are they having you pay for the "turning"?
Thanks!
Since we are leaving I thought to check the oil change and the wife has let it go almost 2000 over. She said she doesn't pay attention to it. Really its my fault but oh well. Gonna change it in the morning after packing. Real quick, which oil filter should I use, Fram, Valvoline or other? Not able to go by dealer to get original, not that it is any better. Probably made by Fram or some other company like most parts these days.
Our "shimmy" is still occurring. I guess it really never was corrected but since I only get to drive it on the weekends I haven't noticed it. The brake problems you guys are talking about seem to have affected us as well. Though only slight, there is a vibration when braking. Probably due to normal wear and not a defect but we need to stay on this one!
I hope to have a few updates after the break. Happy driving....
Dano
to be smooth as glass and very hard. I wonder if they are getting very hot due to the excessive amount of pressure on the peddle to get the car stopped? Only an idea! Steve
The PF is the best SUV built but I just wish mine had cloth seats and no ABS!
seat looks like it came off a 100 year old cow. I have a 14 year old Stanza
with 131k and the seats look like new. Steve
I have a 2001 QX4 that had the same problem as you. It has 17000 miles and whenever I stopped hard the brakes would shudder. Well, I took it in for its 15k service and it was determined that the rotors were warped. Under warranty, the rotors were resurfaced and the problem is no more.
We just got back from a 2,000+ mile trip to Utah in our Pathy and thought I would share some thoughts.
Mileage:
Worst - 17mpg heading west through Utah into a
40 mph head wind @ 75mph.
(At a gas station near Zion N. P. we overheard some
poor sap who was towing a 5th wheel trailer behind
his new Dodge Ram and getting a whopping 6mpg.)
Best - 22.5 mpg heading East back into CO,
no wind, @ 75 mph.
Speedo: Reads about 2 mph hi (could be due to worn tires) I have the Bridgestones and will not be getting them again!!!
Comfort: Incredible. as a 6' - 195 lb. person I was in heaven. My wife, in the co-pilots chair was great as well.
Handling: Two lane back roads are a blast!
Power: Phenomenal. Hills-what hills? See above!
Cargo Capacity: More than enough room for a 7days worth of camping/backpacking gear and food. It did feel a bit loaded but but still drove very well.
With 27k in just barely a year, I have not regretted purchaseing this vehicle once! - well maybe once, this weekend when I had to wash the 8,000 dead bugs off the front. ; )
Brian
Rotors - I had 1,500 lbs of wood on my trailer when some idiot thought he needed to be RIGHT in front of me while traffic was slowing, needles to say, I have a decent shudder when slowing from highway speeds. I'm now planning on turning the rotors at 30k.
question for someone with a big manual please: do these rotors just come off after the wheel is removed, like the older Jeeps, or will I have to re-pack bearings?
I have not yet looked closely
thanks in advance.
brian
My dealer agreed originally to "turn" the rotors at their expense, but after one whole day they didn't do anything, and I don't trust them anymore. I'm looking to do it on another dealer soon.
If you notice, the shudder will eventually get aggravated, especially braking downhill.
After reading captain's Ron explanation it looks like there is nothing much to do, 'cause after turning the rotors, they will eventually began to warp again, due to the lack of the quality of the steel they used.
Or maybe is just me living up here in the CANADA with these Igloo-type of winters, braking heavily on the flat-terrain highways...
After rotors are turned, they will be slightly more susceptible to re-warping NOT due to quality of material, but due to the fact that there will be less material (mass) remaining. In short, the turning process makes the rotors thinner. Thinner rotors will warp more easily. There is a spec in the shop manual as to how thin they can cut the rotors to...after that, you have to replace them with new.
Captain Ron. . .
By the way, runout (wobble) should not exceed .1mm (.004in). Rotor thickness shouldn't vary by more than .015mm (.0006in). Rotors can be turned down to a minimum thickness of 26mm (1.024in) before they are out of spec and need replacing (they start out at 28mm thickness).
The ESM recommends that if the runout is out of specification, turn the rotor with an ON-CAR brake lathe ("MAD, DL-8700", "AMMCO 700 and 705" or equivalent). This ensures that all factors (including wheel hub runout) is taken into account. I will also add to turn BOTH rotors even if only one is out of spec. It's difficult to get the same braking from two rotors that aren't turned at the same time. Often this will create a "pulling" in one direction or another while braking.
Captain Ron. . .
For US residents going to Canada to buy, that makes a great deal even better. About another $1000 better. For example, that should put an LE with leather at around $27,000 total including duty. Most of you who read this regularly know I did this route and am glad to explain it to others. See post #2610 above for info. Just email me with any questions or for more info and some good contacts.
-Jon
This may be another great reason to use an on-vehicle brake lathe!
Sorry if I can't be more specific, but I'm just interpreting line drawings and haven't "been in there" myself.
Captain Ron. . .
See the item called "CS-TATA Transponder Anti-Theft Adapter". The main purpose of the box is to mount the key out of sight while ensuring a good reading from the key.
Don't know if you can purchase this directly from Crimestopper. The installer charged me an extra $25 for this feature (parts and labor).
Hope these words are of value.
Thanks for the tip on oil changes. Was afraid it was a dealer deterrant....just to make it difficult enough to pay them a visit for oil changes.
I would rather screw it up myself than pay someone else to screw it up!
My husband and I are shopping for an LE 4x2 in Atlanta. We love the PF (especially the engine and great fit and finish), but here are our questions and concerns;
1) Fixed Radio Antenna - Is this a problem for any of you PF owners? Is it OK to take the PF through a car wash, or will it break off the antenna?
2) Headroom - Very tight for my husband, who's 6'2". Has anyone found a way to get more headroom, short of having custom seats put in?
3) Back Seat - Seems more like a torture chamber. To us, it seems very poorly designed, which is odd because our '96 Maxima has a superb back seat. I doubt there's any "fix" for this, just wanted to mention it.
4) "Shimmy" Mentioned Here - Is this a problem only on 4x4 models? Should we take a long test drive at highway speeds in a 4x2 to be sure it's OK?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
You must adjust the seat properly to your liking. Or better yet get one without a sun roof. Of which I will not recommend a Pathfinder without a sun roof.
Good luck in your shopping, but I warn you, the dislikes on these PFS. are very minute.
full5.
The fixed antenna is has not been a prob for me at car washes. I usually don't use those things, but my PF is a lease and I'm not worried about the scratches those Car washes leave on the finish. I have had two child seats in the rear of My PF for over a year. One child just graduated out of her booster. The other is still in a forward facing seat. If yours is still in a rear facing seat, it will need more space and will likely need to be behind the shortest adult. I am 5-11 and almost have the driver seat all the way to the rear of the adjustment range. The "Shimmy" may not appear when new. It took mine 7,500 miles to show up. It is mild, and I have had Nissan rebalance the tires once. It seemed to fix for a while, but I notice it again now at 15k miles. I guess I will fork over my own dough and have someone with one of the "Hunter 9600" balance machines mentioned by "smithmd" do the work.
Dave,
I believe that I saw a post stating that the new PFs have a simple switch to select celcius vs farenhiet on the auto climate control. The older ones such as mine require a simple disconnect of one of the wires behind the display for the climate control. Others can chime in because I haven't changed mine, but I believe the ability to change the outside Temp control between C and F has always been there.
BTW, Canadian dealers now have a Nissan rebate of $1,500 to play with. Their national ads for the 2001 PF XE dropped from $34,000 CDN to $32,500 this week!!!
Cheers.
Oh.. I see, thats for an XE. Oh well, anyone in the market for an XE, $21,400 in Canada!
PYRENUS
All Pathfinders (both US and Canada) meet federal and California pollution requirements and have the sticker under the hood already.
The duty to pay to US Customs is 2.5%.
The speedo reads in km/hr and mph. Odo reads in km. You do not have to change the speedo/odo if you don't want. If you do, any speedometer shop can do it. I have seen quotes as low as $251 using new factory parts.
The outside temp above the rear view mirror toggles between F and C with the push of a button. On the LE auto temp control there is one ground wire on the unit to disconnect to make the change.
-Jon
and called or E mailed all sources I could find on internet. Class 3 hitch is very little more, my choice was a Hidden Hitch, tubular design. This doesn't have the horizontal bar running across the back that is exposed. Best deal was JC Whitney for $139.95, wire kit $33.99, Ball mount $19.95, chrome ball $6.99, and tubr cover (can be painted) to fit over receiver opening for $12.99. Flat charge on $200 or more $20.10 but got a 15% discount on order as shown on back of catalog I requested.
Filters, local Auto Zone had to order Purolator L14610 out og warehouse, had in store 2 hours later.
Envoy/Pathfinder comparison. Check the discussion I started about the first of the year: MY Pathfinder, Envoy, Bravada. There are many unhappy owners. My read after careful look and drive, Envoy made on the cheap, way overpriced.
Finally, Jon after reading post on Canada rebate I decided not to share the info that we could have saved $l000 by waiting 3 or 4 weeks with my wife. Am in full armor in dispute with US Customs, their letter rejecting protest mentions that rebates are fully taxable and they consider Canadian taxes that are being refunded as a "rebate". Such HS.
Nav is not avail in Canada.
If you change the odo/speedo it's essentially impossible to distinguish between the US and Canada models. The title doesn't say anything special. I can't imagine the value would be any different. I've been told that a large number of the used cars for sale in the Seattle area have been brought in from Canada because of the exchange rate. One local dealer (Minneapolis) has a whole line-up of PT Cruisers from Canada. He still gets US list price or better.
-Jon