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Nissan Quest Engine Problems

My 95 Nissan Quest crankshaft has broken after
the dealer put in a new AC compressor, hose etc.
I've contacted Nissan USA & waiting for them to
contact me back. After researching this problem
I believe the dealer tightened the belts therefore
causing the crankshaft to break, & the dealer's mechanic is responsible.
This is a very documented problem with
this make/year of Quest along with the
Villager van. If anyone has any info
what so ever I would appreciate any input.
I need all the info I can get my hands on, I may
end up in small claims court.
thx
Brolandet
«134

Comments

  • My 98 Mercury Villager had little warm air coming out of the heater and the engine never got into the normal zone on the gauge. Always stayed cold. A friend suggested I change the thermostat because it might be stuck open. I removed all the wires and upper radiator hose to get to the thermostat housing. Got it installed and hooked everything back up. Now my "check engine" light comes on, the radiator fan immediatly comes on right after I start it and it overheats. What's up??
  • kw_dakw_da Posts: 76
    Did you bleed the coolant system? If you don't bleed it properly, an air pocket will form. There is a bolt you need to crack open and make sure all the bubbles come out.

    I believe that I raised the overflow tank higher than the rest of the engine & filled the coolant from there to force all the air out from the bleed hole. Check Steve Cutchen's Villager site link for one possible method. I'd caution against removing the radiator air relief plug as other sites have said it sometimes cracks.

    David
  • beast2beast2 Posts: 1
    I need a throttle body for a 97 Mercury VIllager I have searched many placec and sites for this damned thing and have had NO success is there anyone out therre who can help me I need the throttle body because my is corroding out and may break when they fix my solenoid. The solenoid needs to be replaced to pass inspection It has sometning to do with emissions PLEASE help stumped in Easthampton
  • also, the dealer wants apx $7000.00 for a new engine when
    the car is bearly worth $3500.00. It has apx 143,000 miles
    right now. I'm into the car about $9500.00 since I bought it in 2001. I've printed up everything I can find so far
    on this problem with the Quest/Villager & it makes me sick
    to have to think that the dealer may get away with this.
    If I want a rebuilt engine I have to go elsewhere. Whatever
    I do there will be very little warranty ont it.

    Brolandet
  • cmikcmik Posts: 2
    My 99 Mercury Villager has a slight coolant leak. I appears to be coming from somewhere under the intake. There is a tube that connects to the radiator hose and runs under the intake. Not sure if the tube is leaking. I took it to a shop and they said the tube costs ~$400. Wow. Not sure what to do. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Carl
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    $400 is steep but I guess it's difficult to get to under there.

    This thread may help but it sounds like a different hose than what you are describing:

    motonation, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #2158, 22 Nov 2005 7:18 pm

    Steve, visiting host (and '99 Quest owner)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Is just the tube $400 or the total cost of the job $400? Was that a dealership or independent shop? That just seems like an unbelievable price for one part that isn't a transmission or engine. Do you remember the name of the part?
  • cmikcmik Posts: 2
    The $400 is just the part cost. They called it a coolant transfer tube. The Ford part number is F6XZ-18B402-AC. They said the manifold will have to come off which is a 5 hour job. So total cost is about $1000. This was from an independent shop. Will probably get second opinion from the dealer. I was just hoping to see if someone else has ever heard of this. Or if the are just blowing smoke up my rear.

    Thanks,
    Carl
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Yeah, I think I'd take it to the dealer and tell them you smell coolant and ask them to diagnose it. I wouldn't mention that you took it to an independent or already got a diagnosis. It'd be worth the $70 +/- fee just to see if the indy is wrong. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll just be a $10 piece of accessible rubber hose.

    Steve, visiting host
  • quesmanquesman Posts: 1
    hi....ive got same problem ,,my friend gave me a 95 quest with 80k miles its now 7,07 ok ,,,we thought it was belt ,,but it is crank ,,sheared at pulley,,,im not sure if its worth overhaul 1200$ with one year warr,,,let me know ed
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    I have 97' Quest GXE with 150K miles and experiencing engine running rough. At times the CEL light comes on with following two codes:

    P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit
    P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire

    Engine running rough seems to be worse when hot. I've seen from other sources that O2 sensor may be a culprit but then if O2 sensor is bad the code should reflect that.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    I have '97 GXE and have few problems with CEL off and on. One thing I am noticing currently is that in Summer time when outside temperature is high, and I've driven for more then an hour. Especially on the freeway sitting in traffic jam with an air on.

    Engine looses power drastically; engine knocks whenever an accelerator is pressed and engine temperature rises (not to the dangerous level but higher then normal). But then when the stop & go traffic is freed, the problem goes away.

    Anyone with a similar experience what the problem might be? Thanks inadvance for your reply. :confuse:
  • I have a 95 quest and have the same problem, I took to an independent shop and they do the test, and showed me the leaks, it was hehind the manifold and it was the heater hoses, it will take about 3 hr to repair the part not 400 maybe the labor. they ask for 310.00 for mine, but I do it my self, it turn out good. I do not have any more problem of leaks. this happened about 2 week ago.

    take time and do it, it save you money.
    my 95 quest has 235000 miles and it was hit by the strom KATRINA in 08-29-2005 in New Orleans, I am now in LAS VEGAS.
  • Hi, i have a 98 mercury villager with the same sorta problem. 3lt v6 with 269000 kms. Ive spent 2800 dollars before we found the problem. The problem was a loose ground wire on the computer. The simptoms were it started fine and ran fine until it got warm, then it sputtered/misfired and the rpms would dance. I changed the o2 sensor, and the knock sensor and cap and rotor plugs,wires, fuel injector flush, catalitic convertor before the ford dealer had to call the ford hotline for help. hope this helps. D
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    This is a valuable information. I am not sure exactly what I have to do. Do I look at my negative black battery cable to be certain there is a tight connection or check the computer ground wire? If computer ground, where is the computer and what computer are you referring to. Thanks again for your reply.
  • ;) The ford technician said it was the onboard computer ground wire. I think it is somewhere inside the van maybe under the dash. Ive spent thousands trying to fix this problem. I even paid to have a stupid knock sensor done with no differance. The ford dealer was flabbergasted as to why my van was so messed up. They paid for a rental and had to call the Ford Hotline for advice- they told them to check for loose ground wires on the ECM .. Sure enough it works good now.
  • Anyone experiencing / experience engine failure?

    I have a major problem and are trying to document other possible problems, including the computer failures and engine issues.

    My quest - with 80,000 km on it has just had the engine die and they want $15000 to fix!

    HELP
    :sick:
  • Tell me the symptoms. Try to be as specific as possible. Perhaps i can help, although i drive a mer villager/nissan.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It's b een a while since I have had to convert metric to english but 80,000 km is about 50,000 miles. I thought all 2004 Quests were covered by 5 yr/60k miles bumper to bumper warranty as part of the recall in 2004. Even if you are not in America, aren't all Quest still covered by 5 yr/60k miles powertrain warranty. I would think that the warranty would cover it. As long as you have had regular oil changes and change the coolant, you should be covered. The transmission fluid is not required to be changed until 60k miles.

    What issues are having that would cost $15k?
  • engine replacement
    and they don't want to put it under warranty

    yep - they extended the warranty to 100k - 60m
  • Radiator Cooling Fan always ON – Fix.

    Sorry for the long post, but it has the 'Fix' too:

    9/16/07:
    I hope some one can help me also whith an issue that I have with my 2000 Nissan Quest GXE. I've had it since Oct 2003 when it had only 52K miles on it. Now it has about 113K miles.
    Recently, I had my Radiator fan ON all the time while the car/engine is on. Intially, when the problem surfaced, I had a 'plastic burning' smell inside my car. Found a 'burnt' fan relay in the fuse box.
    Had the computer scanned and the following code came up: P0325 which according to the computer, it is a 'knock sensor issue'. Now, a mechanic I know told me it would take about 5.2 hours of labor and about $190 for parts.
    Does this make sense? I mean, the 'knock sensor issue' causing my fan relay to burn and the radiator fan to be on all the time.
    Now he told me that the Radiator fan being on all the time is not a big issue, but that I should change the sensor.
    What do you think?

    9/10/07:
    Hi,
    Here is an update on what I've done so far, but it hasn't been fixed yet.
    I decided to troubleshoot this issue. From reading here in the web, I learned that this is supposed to be a 2-speed fan (Hi and Lo). Also, I looked at the relay box and learned that 2 relays are for the 'Hi' and one of these was the one the burnt. Also, none of the cables/wires are burned. Any ways, I have installed 2 good relays here and the fan still on. These relays are 'normally open' until 12v are applied. So when I check the car, as soon as I turn the key to the 'accessories' ON, I measure 12 volts at the inputs of the relays and so the fan is suppossed to be on because it closes/completes the circuit. This isn't normal as the car is cool because it was parked all night.
    So, this tells that something is sending the signal to always turn the fan on. So, the first thing I supected and changed was the 'water temperature sensor'. This did not fix it. I went ahead and replaced the entire radiator fan assembly. This did not fix the problem. I spent about $300 for this so far.
    Now, I talked to my mechanic and we learned that the ECM is what controls the radiator fan, among other things like the AC and engine speed; on this 2000 Nissan Quest. So now he recommends replacing the ECM on this car and says that the part will be very expensive - about $700 bucks. He suggested I find a used one somewhere and he will replace it for me.
    So here I go. I will hunt one of these down and see what happens...
    Will update later.

    9/12/07:
    Hi,
    So, I finally had my 2000 Nissan Quest scanned by the Nissan Dealer in my area. They charge $135.00 just for scanning the computer (ECM) and reflashing it if it needs it. I told them about the issue I am having with my car and about the parts that I have already replaced.
    They didn't find anything with the scan and told me that the computer was not sending any codes. So, they looked at all the wiring that leads to the ECM and said that there was a 'short' somewhere. When they verified that all the wires were OK, they went ahead and removed the ECM. They opened the ECM and found two burn wires/contacts. They then told me that for sure the ECM needs to be replaced. They gave me a quote fro $1,500.77 just for the new ECM. I was very shocked.
    So I told them 'No thanks' and asked them to put my car back together. The car is now back with me and it still has the radiator fan issue.
    So, I did a search on the web and found a 'used parts' site where you can request any auto parts and they send your request all over to see if anyone is selling it. I got back 10 emails from several places that say they have my ECM. The cheapest is $150.00 to the most expensive of $499.00.
    I opted to buy it from a place in Sacramento California for about $175.00 with a 6-month warranty. It is called sunrisenissan.net and they specialize in selling used nissan (and Kia) parts. Well, let's see how this turns out. I will post once I get the part replaced/installed.

    10/01/07:
    Hi,
    Just came back to inform everyone that my "Radiator Fan Issue" has been fixed.
    From my previous post, I/we narrowed it down to the ECM. I received the part about 10 days ago and I finally had a chance to change it this weekend. The one thing that the 'salvage' place told me was that it might need to be reprogrammed. But that's fine. I was more worried about getting the correct part. This is why: The dealer will give you a part number which really is not the same part number on the ECM it self. Most places that sell these 'used' ECMs want the part number that's on the ECM to match it 100%. I didn't know what this number was except that it starts with: MECM-XXX-XXX. So that's why I felt I took a chance ordering the used ECM without knowing the part number.
    Any ways, because I didn't know where exactly the ECM in the car was, I asked my mechanic about it. He told me it was under the dashboard, almost to the left of the front-passanger airbag. I told him I wanted to see the Original ECM in my car so that I can compare the part number with the used one.
    When I got home, I took the glove box and some other 'pannels' off to see if I could see or access the ECM. I was able to see it, but could NOT see the numbers. So, I decided to remove it my self. Note, you must remove a metal bar that sits infront of it. It's not hard. Once you do that, there are only 2 screws holding the ECM to the car. Once you unscrew these 2 screws, you have to unscrew the one screw that holds the connector (and wires) to the ECM. Once the connector is out of the way, you have to 'wiggle' the ECM and pull it out at an angle (with its rear lifted up and its front pulled down).
    Since I got it out, I compared the part numbers and most numbers matched. Only 4 numbers, which were at the end of the sequence, did not match. (I don't have those numbers with me but I have them in my car. I will post them when I get them). So I decided to try/install this used ECM to see, not only if it fixed my problem, but if my car would start. Once I screwed the connector on, I tried it by turning the 'accessories' ON. It worked. The Fan would not come on at all. I then turned the ignition/car ON and it did start fine. The engine ran good. So, I decided to leave the used ECM in and put everything else back together. I drove my car for a few miles and it ran fine. The radiator FAN problem was definitely fixed.
    I then took a 150 mile trip and the car ran great. It is still running great. The radiator fan is working the way it should. It turns ON only when the water temperature rises.

    Here is the Part Number that’s on the ECM:
    Original P/N:(Went bad -wires Radiator Fan 'ON' burnt inside ECM):
    _______PPZ_________
    _______YFCD________

    Used P/N(bought from Salvage place - now installed and works good):
    ______PPZ_________
    ______YFCD________
    MECM-C716 A1 0609
    Notice that the last 4 characters are different (9Z09 vs 0609). In my case, this didn't matter as my problem was fixed and m
  • Hi,
    Because of the my long post, the Part Number information was not posted. Here it is for those who need it.

    Here is the Part Number that’s on the ECM:

    Original P/N:(Went bad -wires Radiator Fan 'ON' burnt inside ECM):

    PPZ
    YFCD
    MECM-C716 A1 9Z09

    Used P/N(bought from Salvage place - now installed and works good):

    PPZ
    YFCD
    MECM-C716 A1 0609

    Notice that the last 4 characters are different (9Z09 vs 0609). In my case, this didn't matter as my problem was fixed and my car is running good.
    As far as PPZ and YFCD, I don't know what those mean/are, but they matched.
    Good luck to all of you who have this problem. Let me know if I can be of any assistance here.

    BL
  • You DA MAN!

    Power of internet and sharing information with strangers. I have really enjoyed reading your step by step process troubleshooting your car. I came to figure out where ECM was for my villager and I found your information useful. Thanks.
  • The van is overheating usually when at idle, and there is a coolant leak sometimes which seems to drip down towards the oil filter. Its a 95 villager. Do you think its the waterpump or ???
  • jeffgcjeffgc Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where the air relief cap for the heater pipe is on a 1994 Nissan 3.0 V6I need to bleed the cooling system and the manual says to" find the air relief cap for the heater pipe, connect a 1/4" hose to the air relief fitting and insert the other end of the hose into the coolant reservoir. I can't find it - anybody know?
    thanks,
    jeff
  • choschos Posts: 1
    Hello, I'd like to know if you have found an answer to your problem. I am experiencing a similar problem. I have a '96 Quest,I bought it new in '97. For the past 7 years I have had the problem that it dies all of a sudden in the middle of the road. This only happens in summertime heat and after I have driven it for a few hours. The problem has gotten progressivly worse, as in more frequent and after shorter and shorter periods of driving. After 30 minutes on the side of the road it cranks right up and I drive away. I have had it to numerous dealers and mechanics but no one seems to be able to figure this out. I am at witts end and ready to shove some dynomite up it's butt since the last time almost got me killed out on the interstate. I'm now afraid to drive it any distance. Can anyone help here?
  • It was the waterpump, the coolant was coming from the bottom seep hole in the waterpump. The condition of the belt was poor. I changed the timing belt at the same time as the waterpump because the lower timing belt cover has to be removed to access the pump. I also changed the ac belt, waterpump belt, alternator belt, and the thermostat. It cost me $188 for all the parts, and my labor was free lol. the tools i needed : 3/8 ratchets, and extendtions, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets. 1 1/16 socket, 1/2 impact gun, and steering wheel type puller for the crankshaft pulley. I also used a 5/8 spark plug socket to remove no 1 plug to check for top dead centre. Thats about it. hope this helps somebody.
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    so did they replace the engine for free ?
  • It is the distributor...change it for a new one or a rebuit one...new ones cost about $600-700.
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    Do you mean the whole distributor assembly with shaft and all? What in the distributor assembly causes this to run rough? Is this a common problem for that particular engine? Your more detailed input would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • Is the 1/2 impact gun you used in a shop with over 120psi or is it another type? I have my car on the drive way and failing to remove the crankshaft pulley. :confuse: Any suggestions to hold the pulley from moving?
  • I used an electric impact gun and a steering wheel type puller, you might be able to use a ratchet with the puller.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    2000 Quest with 130, 000ML runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up cant speed up, misses and cuts out.have checked exhaust. There is no codes showing except knock sensor.Any detailed help or information will be most appreciated.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    My '99 Quest threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburnt gas coming out of the exhaust.

    The knock sensor is buried pretty good and just replacing that could run $500 to $700. Knock sensors run ~$175 and labor is 5.2 hours.

    Please report back on how it goes.
  • Trust me, knock sensor is a symptom, not the problem. Go and get a rebuilt or used distributor from the wreckers, I stupidly spent thousands trying to fix this problem, this is a common problem with villagers and quests .... Distributor ...try it and repost.
  • There is a small photo sensor deep inside the distributor which gets fouled up with carbon and heat stress over time... find a good distrutor and clear the codes, you should be ok.....
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    About 5,000 miles before my CEL threw the knock sensor code, I had replaced my plugs, wiring and cap. fwiw...
  • i had changed - new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injector flush, coil, cataclic convertor, o2 sensor, knock sensor, neg battery cable, ..before i went to a nissan dealer who told me in 20 min that it was the distrubtor....i spent thousands ..i was so stupid not to take it to the nissan dealer first.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    I had just changed my stuff on general principles - didn't want the plugs to completely seize or a belt to break since everything was original at 125k. Never fails - been better off just to ignore the preventative maintenance.

    And my indy mechanic wasn't too impressive either and I doubt that the dealer would have charged much more.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Yes with the help of this board I found the problem with the 2000 Nissan Quest, The
    distributor was the problem after getting warmed up and yet would run good when first started cold. I found the bearing in the distributors after the lubricant wears off from age and miles get hot and making the distributor get hot and this being the problem.
    Some oil down the distributor shaft say ever 50,000 I feel will help, but this is a problem and a new distributor with this design will we not have the same problem at a later date once the bearing lubricant wears off?
  • I'm new here and was reading everything and it sounds I might be in the same boat as most of you...I have a 97 villager that is running rough and when stopped at a light you can hear the rumbleing 'brrrrrr" sound but when I put it in neutral as I wait for the light to change the rumbleing subsides and the engine runs smoother. Now I just got finished having to have it serviced to pass a smog test and 2 codes came up one of which was the knock sensor but they didn't replace it cause they said that it was not the reason for the CEL to come on, so they didn't...they just replaced what they called a EGRC-BPT valve and it passed the smog test. Could this knock sensor be the problem?....I am scared that it might be a tranny problem but then I saw all this talk about the distributor....any opinions???
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    The Knock Sensor has to do with the timing or spark to the spark plug at he correct timing, and this comes from the distributor. The one we replaced would get hot after
    driving because of the bearing failure on the inside of the distributor from age and miles. After driving I put my hand on the side of the distributor and found it more hot than the rest of the engine is how I found the problem. You can order a new distributor
    complete on Ebay Motors for much less, and changing out is no problem if you mark the rotor button on the old one before removable and set the new one in the same.
  • I have 97 Quest with 180K miles and engin running rough. You said you have 2 code come up. (I know one is knock sensor). What is EGRC-BPT and did replacing that stop the engin from running rough?

    I have 2 CEL code and my other code is engin misfire. It does not specify which cylinder but random misfire is detected.

    I've been following this thread, (thanks to the board, it send you e-mail when new posting is entered) and distributor problem does not triger ramdom misfire code. Only knock sensor. Besides my Quest is running rough even when engin is cold (althogh this hard to notice because when cold engin is running fast).

    Your input would be appreciated. Thanks.

    [email protected]
  • What I do not know is the symtoms of this problem when distributor bearing is out. What symtoms do you see? So far, I've seen from posts:

    1. engin running rough when engine is hot.
    2. CEL code of knock sensor

    I want to be sure if the distributor is the villien for engin running rough before replacing the distributor. With 180K miles on my 97 Quest, I am pretty sure the baring on the shaft is out. Does CEL code of random cylinder misfire also come on if the distributor is bad? I wanna know.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Being a 1997 with the miles and age is also a problem and maybe lucky that it can still go if it has not had proper care. The distributor is the hart of the engine and when it does not work correct you may get a knock code, miss or what ever. It being a 1997 and unless it has had proper care, you may have more that just one problem!
  • I have compiled the problem and solutions that was posted on the board so far on the engine issues mainly two issues. Engine running rough and knock sensor on CEL. I am not sure if those two are related but I know the injector can also cause the problem similar problem. Replacement of injectors, replacement of knock sensor or replacement of distributor assembly are all costly expenses and I would like to relate problems with symptoms if possible.

    Efitzgerald posted following problem and solution:
    Started fine and ran fine until it got warm, then it sputtered/misfired and the rpm would dance. Solved this problem by titening ground wire of ECM. Also posed that small photo sensor inside the distributor could cause the problem too.

    chos posted following problem:
    For the past 7 years I have had the problem that it dies all of a sudden in the middle of the road. This only happens in summertime heat and after I have driven it for a few hours. The problem has gotten progressively worse, as in more frequent and after shorter and shorter periods of driving. After 30 minutes on the side of the road it cranks right up and I drive away.

    denham posted following problem and solution:
    Runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up can’t speed up, misses and cuts out. There are no codes showing except knock sensor. Both efitzgerald and denham agrees and denham has solved this problem by replacing the distributor assembly.

    Auto_Dummy posted following problem:
    Engine running rough and when stopped at a light you can hear the rumbling 'brrrrrr" sound but when I put it in neutral as I wait for the light to change the rumbling subsides and the engine runs smoother. Now I just got finished having to have it serviced to pass a smog test and 2 codes came up one of which was the knock sensor but they didn't replace it cause they said that it was not the reason for the CEL to come on, so they didn't...they just replaced what they called a EGRC-BPT valve and it passed the smog test.

    steve posted following problem:
    Threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburned gas coming out of the exhaust.

    Mikek847 posted following problem:
    I have 97' Quest GXE with 150K miles

    Problem 1: Eperiencing engine running rough. At times the CEL light comes on with following two codes:
    P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit
    P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
    Problem 2: Summer time when outside temperature is high, and I've driven for more then an hour. Especially on the freeway sitting in traffic jam with an air on. Engine looses power drastically; engine knocks whenever an accelerator is pressed and engine temperature rises (not to the dangerous level but higher then normal). But then when the stop & go traffic is freed, the problem goes away.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Mike from what I read your problem seems in the distributor, there is a bearing on the shaft that gets dry of lubrication from age and miles and wears out and the pickup
    eye and coil do not work once they get hot. You can find a distributor on Ebay.
    Get back with me!
  • RB251RB251 Posts: 1
    When I stop at an intersection and have my foot on the brake in drive. The idle drops down and up. Sometimes it does it once and sometimes several times. I tried the timing belt and now the distributor. When I picked the van up after the timing belt I drove it for 15 minutes or so and when I stopped at a stop sign the idle would drop down and up. It was more like a bump in the idle, like when the air compressor kicks on. When I accelerate it goes back to normal. I changed the distributor yesterday and talked to my mechanic. He let the van run in gear and it never changed the idle . He drove it for about 15 minutes and when he returned to the shop the idle bumped 1 time. What next? OR do I just drive it a day or 2 to see if it works itself out with the new distributor?
  • :sick: CEL decodes to bad "bank 1, sensor 1" oxygen sensor and the auto parts place can't tell me which O2 sensor is the bank 1 sensor. I'm assuming that "sensor 1" indicates before the cat so I think I just need to find out whether "bank 1" means firewall or radiator side. The number 1 cylinder is on the firewall side if that is any reference.
    My wife has 137,000+ miles on this van and all of the O2 sensors are original so I don't mind changing more than one of the O2 sensors if necessary to clear the CEL. I noticed that Bosch recommends changing O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Thanks!
  • I may have answered my own question. It appears that we only have two O2 sensors, i.e. a pre and post cat sensor. Got confused looking at a Chilton's where it listed four 02 sensors for the Nissan 3.0L versus two 02 sensors for the Mercury 3.0L whereas the 97 Mercury Villager and the 97 Nissan Quest are nearly the same vehicles!
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