Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Quest Engine Problems



  • hunter38hunter38 Posts: 7
    this seems to be a problem for this particular year...I have 160K on my 2000 and up until now have had no unfixable problems. here is what i have done to unsucessfully fix this problem:
    spark plug wires
    spark plugs
    O2 sensor upstream--OBDII was coding this one
    Air intake sensor OBDII was coding this one also
    Fuel filter
    Checked all vacuum hoses

    I think that my problem may be distributor related since timing jumps all over the place with i put a light on even at when it is idleing smoothly HOWEVER i read in another thread that a quest owner simply tightened the ground wire on the PCM and problem gone. Another mentions the camshaft position sensor located in the distributor, but if you have replace the distributor, what are the chances of them both being bad?
    here are some codes i have been getting
    P0130 Closed Loop, Bank 1 Or Front O2S, Bank 1
    P1148 Closed Loop, Bank 1
    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire

    I have replaced the knock sensor on this car (10 hour job) and noticed that some of my "O" rings for my injectors were worn out and need replacing. I am not sure but i believe that this would also cause rough idle if air were leaking in however it would be rough idle all the time. Check the bolts for tightness on the plenium (upper intake mainfold), although this would cause car to idle rough all the time. The fact that it runs rough when warm (on my car) and not cold leads me to believe that it is still a timing or PCM issue. I really wish i could solve this one as my registration is coming due and i cannot pass with check engine light on!

    One last note: my car does miss after heavy acceleration when gas pedel is released. Again HAS TO BE TIMING! Anytime the car is changing RPMs the distributor tells spark plugs when to fire based on position of crankshaft, correct?
  • hunter38hunter38 Posts: 7
    Check connections on all your spark plugs and distributor cap. remove and reseat them, clicking could be arcing at loose connection. do it with car off so you dont get shocked.

    how many miles on car and have you had timing belt changed? if you threw some teeth on timing belt ticking could be valves not opening and closing correctly.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    A few of the early last generation Quests had a rough idle due to a dirty IAC valve off the intake manifold. Cleaning was the fix. Someone had a bad idle air control solenoid. Seems less likely than an injector problem though (but I'm really shooting in the dark here).

    I wonder if it's at all related to the throttle plate? I clean that on mine every ~30,000 miles or so, but only when it makes my '99 hesitate pulling away from stop signs.
  • petakapetaka Posts: 12
    I had my 105k miles service done at the end of 2005: replaced spark plugs, timing belt and whatever the dealership said I needed.
    Last summer I had an injector replaced and my mechanic also replaced spark plugs and fuel filter. When my injector went bad the van performed badly at all times.
    My idling problems started very lightly last December and have increased ever since.
    I clean the throttle plate regularly - whenever it sticks.
    The van seems to be possessed only when idling. Step on the gas and the darn thing flies. :confuse:
    Is the idle air control solenoid what keeps ticking once you shut off the engine?
  • hunter38hunter38 Posts: 7
    ok well that rules out all the suggestions i had...hmm. I did pull off my distributor cap and clean the cam postition sensor and have yet to run into the problem again. I also havent kicked out any codes yet either, but may have not gone all the way through the drive cycle. I am still waiting to see if it happens again. the exhaust smells "cleaner" (no heavy gas smell) which is good. I still have to put the timing light back on again to check to see if it is jumping all over still. I will be working on this over the next couple of weeks so i will let you know if i get some revelation for this mystery problem.
  • mieze245mieze245 Posts: 1
    have you resolved this yet? I am having the same issues on my 96 quest.
  • hunter38hunter38 Posts: 7
    stumbled across in my reading another potential cause of the problem. The throttle position sensor that is sticking or acting up will cause the problems that we are encountering. Essentially if the sensor is not working correctly the engine computer does not know where the throttle position is and is continually trying to adjust causing a rough idle and finally a stall. This, i believe, also causes my problem of timing marks jumping all over the place since the computer is also trying to adjust timing based on an unknown throttle position. Problem should disappear during acceleration since sensor is no longer in play since it mainly adjusts air flow during idle. hopefully this is the solution. good luck!!
  • hunter38hunter38 Posts: 7
    thanks steve for setting me in the right direction on this one!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Nice intuitive leap you made from a throttle body plate to the TPS. :)

    Keep us posted on how it works out!

    Steve, visiting host
  • msixkillermsixkiller Posts: 1
    We had the exact same problem...very frustrating as where we are there are not "mechanics" that have the right equipment to work on Nissan's. But after 4 mechanic shops, 3 tows and all the things above replaced..finally we replaced the distributor and it is running fine. My question is the mechanic that fixed our van said that in two warehouses they had over 2000 of this particular distributor part for this particular van. He suggested keeping your receipt, there is probably a recall on the way...just a heads up.

    Good luck, other than this problem..I love my Quest.

    Michelle :)
  • hunter38hunter38 Posts: 7
    finally got mine was throttle postion sensor and mass air flow sensor in combination. i had just replace the MAF sensor last year and it was still under warrenty. saved me $160 bucks. took it in to have AC looked at (i live in vegas) and found out that it will cost me $1700. ouch. first real money i have put in the car in 9 years since purchasing. cant complain too much i guess. couple of other parts plus labor adds up pretty quick.
  • terrya88terrya88 Posts: 2
    Just fixed this on sister-in-laws Quest. Distributor was so hot it was hard to hold onto. Got it out and it would hardly spin was so gone. Replace and runs perfect. Thanks for the info.
  • petakapetaka Posts: 12
    I've cleaned EGR valve, IAC valve, throttle chamber, MAF sensor, checked and cleaned distributor, checked voltages on throttle position sensor.
    All those things have checked o.k. but the gremlin is still there. I am close to just giving up and let this van run its course.
    Still no ECM warning light.
  • deedee777deedee777 Posts: 1
    wow mine just broke a month ago in my 94 quest, have 134,000 miles on it, the engine had not had much pick up for about 6 months, then I was driving and the check engine light and brake light came on, turns out it had broke... they say it would cost more to have it fixed then its worth, and I have no money to sink into it. just got new tires, raditator, tires... you know the story... wow.... maybe we need to contact NISSAN.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    That's a bummer. This Broken Crankshaft link may be of interest (look under SubTopics)..
  • petakapetaka Posts: 12
    Thanks to the Villager & Quest FAQ site (Google). Under subtopics look for "Low speed miss". Several people posted the same exact problem but somebody nailed it and posted the solution.
    All I had to do was replace the ignition wires and problem solved. I had checked the resistance on each of those wires and they checked ok and looked fine to the naked eye, but somehow when they got hot it seems to be a different story. The van has been for service several times but I don't think anybody knows the intervals for changing the wires.
    I'll be back from time to time and sooner if there are any changes.
  • jmikelljmikell Posts: 4
    My 2000 Quest runs very rough. The cat convert was glowing I had it replaced. Then I got a code for knock senson I replaced that. Now the van runs like crap and then shuts down after it warms up. I am getting tired of throwing money at the car. I read where someone replaced the distributor. I am presently trying to locate a ignition module seprate from distributor. Is such a thing possible? Or do I need to to just purchase the whole distibutor complete.
  • rockmobilerockmobile Posts: 115
    I've read somewhere that a knock sensor code was a signal for a lot of other things and not exactly the sensor itself.
    Before you sink any more money into it make sure you are replacing what is really malfunctioning because things will add up.
    You could check the distributor to see if the bearings are gone but I think that replacing only the ignition module is a little bit more complicated.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Note: The distributor ignition module is good if the engine runs, the distributor bearing
    gets dry of lubricant with age and miles and builds up heat and you get a knock code
    most often after the engine get warm or hot. Read the posts for the last few years
    and then replace the distributor and save money.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    Hello Guys, My 99 quest seems to need a new distributor every year and I had this vehicle since new. Now has 72, 000 original miles mostly highway on flat roads. I have changed 3 distributors within the last three years and now it seems it's the same problem.I always use Sunoco 93 gas. Note that just before this happens everytime, I will get a code 325: Knock Sensor. According to the repair manual and diagnostic readouts, knock sensors on these vans do not cause a code read out and the cause would relate to something else. In other words, a knock sensor problem will not trigger a code but indicates that the sensor is malfunctioning due to other problems. Now can anyone tell me why this vehicle seems to go through so many distributors? Note that everytime it's the Camshaft Position Sensor within the distributor that is gone. Currently the two terminals on the camshaft position sensor in the Dist. reads a resistance of 32.47 omhs which does not seem to be good. I conducted all the test and the dist is working as it should but does not send secondary power to the fuel pump. Same problem all the time. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • If you wanna waste thousands like me, go ahead. Those are just the same symptoms i had...."Spent thousands" just get a used or new distributor or get a new vehicle, mine was 10 years old (320K) finally had enuf.
  • Unless your service manual requests that you use 93 octane i wouldnt suggest using it. Your van may not need it and its wastefull (dollar wise) . are you buying new distributors? or from the wreckers? if their used, then your probably buying old ditribs with the same problem. hope this helps.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    I've always bought new dist and I still seem to have the same problem. Looks like it is the piece of crap van that I have keep sucking money all the time. I thought that I was buying a Nissan and not a Ford.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    I'll probably go with Auto Zone - the price is 300.00 for a Cardone Rebuilt with lifetime warranty. Of course I can pick a brand new one for 350.00 with just one year noted, it will go again in one year.
  • jmikelljmikell Posts: 4
    If there is a OReillys Auto parts near by use them. I bought a new Distributor for under $300.
  • jmikelljmikell Posts: 4
    Thanks for all the help you folks have given me.The van starts fine and runs smoothly. Now it has taken to overheating and the cel is on for air mixture . Any sugestion would be aprieciated.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    Hey fitzgerald', thanks for all the help; also to others who share their problems and answers which helps greatly for everyone. By the way, this vehicle seems to run very bad with the 89 or 87 octane. I sometimes use it when I'm low on cash. I read somewhere, sometime ago that you get more mileage with using the higher octane of 93 - this is 100 % true, for I've monitored this analogy hundred of times with different vehicles and for sure the other lower octanes burns very fast resulting in less mileage and power; contrary to what I would believe that the higher end gas would burn faster. But it seems that it takes more fuel of 87 and 89 to get the comparative mileage from the same measured gallons of the 93. So, in the end, it really costs more to use the less expensive gas with lower octane - calculated by mileage, quantity and costs. Now I'm wondering if using 93 would have caused damages so I ended up replacing the third distributor within the last four years.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    By the way guys, after taking apart the distributor and thoroughly checking the components, I found that the resistor is the culprit. Coil, wires, bearings, (shaft not poling) and harnesses all checked out perfect. Anyway, I bought a Cardone Rebuilt from Auto Zone for $300.00 (w/core return) and lifetime warranty. Installed the distributor, just to find now that the fuel pump is not working. Fuel pump was the first checks I did, dropped the tank, uninstalled the pump, tested for power and pressure and turns out good. Also checked the primary and secondary power - primary good, but no secondary feed to the pump. Now with the new dist. in, there is secondary voltage to the pump but pump will not work anymore. Will update later. Thanks again guys.
  • The crank shaft snout is a weak design. If you change the a/c belt and overtighten the tensioner, you will put excessive side load on the crank and the snout will break. Nissan changed the desig in mid 95 to a 32 mm snout.
    You can buy an engine on ebay for about $350. They even had a new short block for sale in Texas. Did you change the belt recently?

    Go here for expert help on Villager and Quest.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    Hey guys, I'm confused here. 99 Quest ignition timing 15 degrees tdc (as per repair manual - disconnect tps harness) and set timing. All sites and manuals shows only one tps sensor harness but in fact there are two harnesses to the tps, one (brown)above the other (Black). Now am I supposed to take off both of them or only the one on top?? Well I did it both ways to see if it causes any difference in the resulted timing after the harness is reconnected and found that it didn't really matter - but I would just like to know what's the correct way of doing it. Thanks All.
Sign In or Register to comment.