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Dodge Dakota Warning Lights and Trouble Codes

dsweetdsweet Posts: 15
My engine light came on and the code is P0161 and it went off within a week and came back on and remains on, a month later. Any ideas on where to find the malfunction and correct the problem?


  • 2003 Dakota 4X4 sport 6 cylinder..36,000 miles About once a week or so, the truck will loose power and backfire for anywhere from a minute to 5 minutes and then will clear up and be fine. Been doing this for 6 months or so..Anyone else with this problem or suggestions
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    That code is for the following:

    O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2).

    Sensor 2 I think is the rear O2 sensor. I don't remember if Bank 2 is the right or left. Check to make sure that the connections are good and clean. If it persists, then the O2 sensor will probably have to be replaced.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    New one on me.

    When it does this how does the engine idle?

    Have you tried stopping the vehicle, shutting the engine off, then restarting? What happens then?

  • This problem only occurs once or twice a month...Loss of power, backfires, engine does not shutdown but is extremly rough. After a few minutes of driving down the highway the engine will clear out and all will be fine again. I have gone thru many tanks of gas so it is not bad gas. Had tune up of truck. Problems occure at any time,,,under load, going down a smoothe highway, driving thru town at 30 MPH. There is no common cause to this problem.
    2003 Dodge Dakota 38,000 miles 6 cylinder engine 4X4
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Have you tried pulling a trouble code from the PCM using the ignition switch?

  • hey dsweet, funny a friend and I were working on changing his Oxygen sensor on his Toyota Echo and I got into my 01 Dakota q/c the next morning and yes you guessed my ck engine light was on! anyways I had the same code as you. according to auto zone they told me it was the left cylinder side.Well they were wrong!Of course I had to figure this out after having already installing it .Good thing I still had the original. I reinstalled the orig on the left side. I purchased an(Haynes) repair manual and discovered it was infact the right cylinder side rather then the left.The manual states "downstream sensor heating circut problem right cylinder bank" this is the sensor just after the cat. Kinda hard remove very tight space for a wrench to get enough turn on the nut. Good luck in finding the sensor avail in store I had to order mine (Napa) $77.00! turns out since I had ordered the one for the left in error, the plug on it didnot match the right.Thus I had to cut the old plug from the right old sensor and spice it onto the new sensor what a mission but its done and the light is off... these sensors are a real pain anymore and a real expense!! the 4.7 has four of them you do the math @ $ approx $ 70 apiece.. at approx 30,000 mile I had a similar problem and replaced all four and here I'm 60,000 mile replacing one again. I hope this not a every 30k occurance!! good luck!!
    btw you can read your trouble code by turning your ignition key 3x off on (donot start) and the trouble codes will appear in the odo....
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    Something else might be going on with your Dakota. You are only the second one I know of that's had an O2 sensor failure on a 4.7, and the only one that's replaced all four!

    By any chance have you had any over charging problems with your truck?

    Best regards,
  • hey Dusty, I havenot had any overcharging problems. I however my battery's have not lasted more then 3 yrs.. I'm on my third bat since factory. first one lasted just about 35m o dodge replaced it and that one lasted approx 34mos. I just replaced it with a duramax since the truck is out of warrenty.
    fyi 01 q/c 60k 4.7
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    You may not think you're overcharging, but a battery every three years indicates somethings wrong. More times than not a vehicle that requires premature battery replacement is either getting an inexpensive battery (poor design or materials) or burning them out through overcharging.

    If you ever get a chance, measure the terminal voltage after the vehicle has been driven for some time with minimal use of the accessories (lights, fan, etc.) and the engine running. Take note of the air temperature.

    Best regards,
  • I think it was a result of poor battery from mopar. Now that I have a different brand well see how long this one lasts.
    I will ck the voltage though what should it read? wouldn't the volt gauge in the truck tell if I was overcharging though?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    When I stated "over charging," I meant that the charge rate was more than required to keep the battery at specific gravity. The voltage regulator could be causing an incremental increase in the charge rate, not enough to boil over a battery in a short time, but enough to overheat the plates and cause eventual warping as well as aggresive electrolyte evaporation.

    Unfortunately, the voltage gauge on the instrument panel is probably not accurate enough to be a reliable indicator to make a judgement on charge rate. However, the the Powertrain Control Module gets a signal from the battery temperature sensor mounted in the bottom of the battery tray. If that sensor's bad it may be falsely triggering a slight overcharge rate. This would be an item to check, for sure.

    The charge rate specifications are as follows:

    -20 F = 14.9 to 15.9 volts
    +80 F = 13.9 to 14.6 volts
    140 F = 13.3 to 13.9 volts
    above 140 F = less than 13.9 volts

    NOTE: Temperature is ambient at the battery.

    NOTE: Voltage is measure at the battery terminals.

    Best regards,
  • Hey, thanks for all the info I'll ck it out and let you know what I find. Matter fact I need to replace my battery cover whom ever replaced the battery last time at the dealer over tighten the bolts and cracked the mounting slots on the cover making the cover unusable. So for now I have a bungee cord holding the battery down.
  • dbrunnerdbrunner Posts: 2
    Have you checked the O2 sensors? My dakota (97 sport V6 engine) was doing the same thing.
  • malmad2007malmad2007 Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Dodge Dakota Sport 4x2 V8 4.7L. We've had less than 2 years and have spent a lot of money trying to fix a problem that seems to elude everybody. Engine will bog down, then check engine light will come on. Tranny code P0845 will show up at Autozone, which they say is Trans fluid pressure sensor code. Dealership says no code P0845 exists for truck. They show problem with trans code 2C pressure test failure and say that is "uncommon code". Dealer replaced trans filter, flushed, and replaced trans pan, which they say was leaking. 2 months later, same problem. Same code at Autozone P0845, which dealer still says does not exist for truck. When Autozone turns check engine light off, truck runs better with no bogging, but problem will still eventually pop up at inconvenient times. Is trans going out? Is it simply a sensor problem? Is something affecting sensors? Wiring? What is going on here? Truck is a pain in the a**.
  • b36b36 Posts: 15
    i have a 04 dakota with a 4.7.
    the check engine light came on.
    i have no problems with the truck at all.
    how do i reset the light myself?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    you want to check the coes first before worrying about resetting. With the engine off, tun the ignition to key to ON (not start) and rapidly cycle the key to OFF-ON-OFF-ON and then leave it there in ON. Watch your odometer readout and it will tell you what computer code triggered the light. You can find code descriptions all over the internet if you search on "Dodge Dakota" and the code number (usually P followed by a 4-digit number).

    If it was something like a loose fuel cap, the light will reset itself after a few days.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • crowe5crowe5 Posts: 6
    i have this code on my 1997 dakots 2wd, with the 2.4 4 cylinder, 5 speed.. no air.. any input would be great.. i also had a po108 (map sensor voltage to high).so i changed the map senser and that went away..also :po320:: (no crank dif signal @pcm) no clue whT THE HECK THAT WAS.. ANY INPUT?? HELP PLEASE.. THAKS.. CHRIS
  • crowe5crowe5 Posts: 6
    :confuse: I am the one above.. now my problem has vanished and the truck is running better than ever! I am clueless!! i keep getting the code idle rpm doesnt reach +200 rpm??? very didturbing this keeps going in and out.. the map senser code was taken care of with the change of the sensor itself.. now i havent a clue????? any input would be great.. thanks..
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, its been a while but I suspect the P0320 code is being triggered by an intermittent crankshaft position sensor, a common problem on older vehicle of that year.

    The "PRM doesn't reach target" might be caused by a bad throttle position sensor, also a common problem. Or, you have a binding Idle Speed Solenoid (or Motor, depending on the year).

  • I need a little help understanding two diagnostic codes that I am seeing on my 2002 4WD 3.9L V6 Dodge Dakota Club Cab SXT Pickup.
    P0340 - (M) No CAM signal At PCM No fuel sync.
    I am assuming that this is a faulty or shorted Crankshaft sensor but I am not sure. Looking for a little advice on possible solutions and or the location of this sensor and any tips on changing it.

    P1494 - (M) Leak Detection Pump Sw or Mechanical Fault Incorrect input state.
    This code did not show up until just after taking the vehicle to the dealer for an oil change. I strongly suspect intentional damage at the dealership, but I am powerless to do anything about it.
    Anyhow any additional info on the two engine codes above will be appreciated.
  • OK, I figured out the P1494 code. A vacuum line was removed from a "Y" connector near the left front (drivers side) fender well. No damage, no cracks in the tubing, and it was difficult to put it back on. Hmm I wonder how this might have fallen off during a routine oil change at the dealership?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I can't imagine how an oil change would bring anyone is close proximity to the vacuum hose, nor for that matter how it could become disconnected.

  • Today when I started the truck the abs and e brake lights came on. Also the spedometer quit working. Made it almost home when the truck wouldn't shift into overdrive. Then it wouldn't go into gear. Automatic transmission, V-6 1998. I have the worst luck. My girlfriend and I are moving (today now).
  • There is a sensor in the rear diff that is an input for the abs which also is used to calibrate vehicle speed. That is almost always the problem. As far as the transmission, check the fluid and make sure you're using Type 7176 ATF +3 or +4. Any other fluid will most definitle eat clutch material. If you haven't been using the right fluid, good luck or be prepared for an overhaul bill.

  • campymancampyman Posts: 13
    Hello All,
    I have a 2001 dak quad cab 4x4, auto, 4.7 V8, I love this truck, if I do not change the sensor what will adverse affects be on my Dak?
  • How do I turn off my check engine light on a 2003 dodge dakota?
  • what does this code mean?
  • I have replaced the gas cap but don't know how reset the check engine light. Lil help?
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