Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    I did that (brought my own Mobil1) all the time w/ my Acura Integra and that was 12 yrs ago ;-)
  • ttdangttdang Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks

    I need you help.

    I have a 99 ML 430 with about 32K miles. Lately, my "AS/ESP" light would come on during a 1 Jr or so trip (and stayed on until I re start the car). I have made two visits to the local dealer, but so far, it is not fixed yet.

    Would anyone have some ideas on what I should look for?

    Thanks in advanced.
  • dt77dt77 Member Posts: 232
    yup, u can bring your own oil. I did just that. then I guess they charge you for labor. My dealer didn't charge cuz they didn't get to do it the first day i sent the ML in and kept it for an extra day. FOC due to 'inconvenice to customer' =)

    great avi drew, thanx !

    dt77
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Glad you liked it, dt77!

    Yup, they only charged me for the labour and the oil filter (for the early unscheduled change). FSS A is the only free service for Canadian vehicles.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Have you tried resetting the ESP? If the vehicle looses battery power, the system may need to be reset. The instructions are in the owner's manual, but I believe you turn the steering wheel full lock (IOW, all of the way) to the left, then full lock to the right, and back to the centre again.

    I'm surprised that the dealer couldn't find the problem. An error code (hence the idiot light illuminating) will usually tell them what area to look at for problems. Did your previous work order indicated if they changed anything? Possible problems may be a malfunctioning steering wheel angle sensor/lateral sensor/yaw sensor, or wheel speed sensor. The worst case scenario would be if the ABS/ESP computer had an intermittent problem.

    Good luck and please keep us updated!

    Drew
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  • biker5biker5 Member Posts: 199
    It had happened to my ML320 2k, turning the wheel to left or right, check the battery load it
    didn't work as what the manual said. light still comes on, then I took it to the dealer a couple of weeks ago. The work order said they replaced the brake switch, which I don't know if its true.
    Since then no more light flashing on my eye every time I drive my toy.
    Take it back again to your stealer(dealer) and tell them about the brake switch. Good Luck
  • bob259bob259 Member Posts: 280
    Went to the dealer this AM and had the new Xenon's aligned. To my surprise they did it at no charge. Can't wait to see how they are at night now, even thought I think I had them fairly close.

    Robert, any theory on why Omar's and others on the mailing list needed to install 15 amp fuses? I know that both yours and mine, with the jumpers, worked fine without having to change the fuses. Interesting....

    Also one of my first lights was damaged as the others have seen as well. The box's are fine it's the inner packing that is making the ends break off, I'm sure with all the claims they must be seeing it will be fixed soon.
  • mikestaleymikestaley Member Posts: 35
    Battery: During my weekly go around, I noticed some battery etching under the battery, there must have been a small crack or something, the fluid level was OK though, it may have been from the venting area!

    In previous posts there was mention of buying a vent hose, I'd like to have the MB dealership do that.

    Time of Fluid change - I was about 800 miles over the flashing light. but remember this... @ 1K I switched the oil and gear oil to synthetic.

    I am using 30 weight Amsoil - then the recommended gear oil - just synthetic.

    My synthetic oil user friends advised me I really did not need to change the oil, I just couldn't let it go though - too old fashioned for the technology.

    MB dealer switched the FSS and the next service shows 10,000 miles.

    Mike
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    I have a theory (mentioned it to Robert before) about why you and Robert didn't have any problems with the fuses blowing. I believe it's because of the different electrical systems on the pre-'00 MLs. Perhaps the '00-newer are better distributed...there are, after all, two fuse boxes for MY2K, and only one for MY1998 and MY1999.

    Let us know what you think of the lights at night. I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Do remember that warmup time is about 30 seconds to a minute.


    Drew
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  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Ken should be able to give you some more info WRT the vent hose. I believe it's the one from the E-class (its battery is similar to the ML's).
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    Mike:

    Here's what I know of it. I haven't done this yet. It's still on my todo list.
  • birgerbirger Member Posts: 80
    Hi, gang

    I've been away from this forum for quite a while, and now have a little over 3,000 miles on my '01 ML 270 CDI. Some impressions:

    It's a pleasure to drive - IMHO more so than my '99 ML 320.

    On hard acceleration and while still cold, the engine is more audible than on the 320, but once up to speed, the truck is definitely less noisy (the 320 had the ___///-roof).

    Fuel consumption is WAY down, with no significant performance penalty, except for pure acceleration - I can live with that. Because of the reduced consumption, I now only have to stop ONCE for fuel on the 1,200 kms trip to our vacation home in SW France - instead of twice. And the diesel is quite a bit cheaper, so :-)

    Quality has improved over '99 - but is maybe still not quite perfect.

    The Desert Silver color (with tan interior) looks nice, and stays acceptably so even when dirty.

    The Comand system is OK, but the TeleAtlas software is far from perfect. Coverage on the French disc is lacking, and plagued with too many errors.

    The truck was to my great surprise (and initial disappointment) delivered on Generals (size 275/55-17), but they are in fact better for my use than the Dunlops.

    Lighting was a definite problem on my '99, so much that I'd seriously considered fitting Xenons. While still not perfect, the '01 is quite a lot better in this respect. I've fitted Philips H7 VisionPlus and Osram H1 "+ 30%" bulbs, but the explanation can't all be there. I guess some modifications have been made to the reflectors.

    Incidentally, my manual shows Xenon headlights with H1 hi-beams AND integrated H3 foglamps (I'll get the relevant pages scanned soon).

    All for now - I'll be back soon with a comparison of fuel consumption of both trucks over the same distance.

    Birger
  • sydney6sydney6 Member Posts: 64
    Hi All:

    Sorry I must have missed the original post about the battery. Is there a problem that I should be aware of/look for?
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Thanks for the update. Is there a little glow plug symbol that illuminates while the engine is warming up when you first turn the key? In fact, does the autostart (twist the key and let go) still work for the ML270?

    How do you like the COMAND's DSP settings? Effective or not so good?

    Looking forward to your scanned pictures!
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Have a look at Ken's above post. Basically though, all of the MB cars (which have batteries in the trunk, BTW, not the engine) have vent tubes in case the battery fluid expands. This allows the fluid to be safely routed away.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    A little while ago, I mentioned that the area where the dash meets the A-pillar and windshield had developed some subtle creaking noises while going over bumpy pavement. I immediately squirted some silicon spray around the area (as well as outside in between the leaf guard grid just in case) and let it set. The sound was still there after a day, but somewhat muted. Two to three days later, it was completely gone and hasn't returned since.


    Drew
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  • mlx52mlx52 Member Posts: 72
    Is there a place were I can order an entire glovebox assembly kit online including the door. When the dealer tried to fix this problem they only put felt tape around the contact areas, which did nothing to help the problem. I now feel that it would be better to take things into my own hands, but I need the parts.

    Thanks,
    Jamie
  • mlx52mlx52 Member Posts: 72
    Robert,
    I know that you live in the Chicago area. Can you recommend a good dealer for service in the area? As I feel that I might want to take my car to another dealer.

    Thanks,
    Jamie
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    You can call www.clairparts.com and they'll look up all the parts you need and send them to you. Folks have done this w/ other stuff.
    I'd suggest trying another dealer first though...
  • quraeshiquraeshi Member Posts: 3
    somebody had listed the crutchfield site as a good place to get audio equippment. they have cd changers for the 2000 but dont know whether the same products can be used for the 2001 model year. anyone have any knowledge. any implications for warranties if this is added on??
  • sydney6sydney6 Member Posts: 64
    Drew and Ken: Thanks for the information. Should I check to see if this is a problem? I hate to show my ignorance, but should I look under the back seat or the hood?
  • cooltruckscooltrucks Member Posts: 12
    I'm looking at the ML430, I feel that the ML320 is underpowered for the weight of the vehicle. My concerns revolve around the quality and reliability of the 2001 model ML-Klasse.

    I would like some objective information/feedback regarding build quality and reliability of the U.S. built Mercedes ML-Klasse. I've experienced the Deutsch built Mercedes and wonder about the differences in selected materials.

    Thank you,

    -C
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    quraeshi:
    For 2001, the changer is fully optical. Someone on the M-Class list installed a Becker successfully. The Crutchfield ones don't work on the 2001. You can also get the MB OEM changer from Clair, but it's pretty expensive at $600...
  • macbestmacbest Member Posts: 55
    What are others using to transport bikes? I have the hitch on back and want to get a bike rack. Seen MB's, Yakima's. Opinions of those out there?
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    The MY2001's CD changer has a fibre optic interface, so it seems that the MB changer must be used.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    It's under the hood, but on the passenger's side corner against the firewall, in its own isolated section. According to Curt Rich, MB placed it there since that is the safest/least vulnerable spots under the hood (most other vehicles have it just behind the driver's side headlamp which is very vulnerable to damage) in a collision and battery acid is less likely to be splattered everywhere. Not only this, but after the accident, it is much more likely that your vehicle will still have power to unlock the doors, turn on the interior lamps and the exterior hazard flashers. If equipped with TeleAid, the SOS signal can still be sent out.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    FYI, the hitch mounted bike rack that MB sells is OEM'ed by Thule. I believe you can get the Thule version for a lower price than what MB wants for theirs; they're both just about identical except for the MB badging/decals on one and the Thule decals on the other.


    Drew
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  • tj98tj98 Member Posts: 8
    Hi guys,

    I had a discussion over the weekend with a friend who has an '00 320 and was at the dealer for oil change (to put Mobil 1 at 5k miles). The dealer obviously refused to cover the cost - he recommended instead a free dino oil change at 10k miles or whenever the FSS target would be (less than 1k miles from it). My friend is into high performance cars big time so he requested to see all the literature that the dealer has on oil change while the truck was being serviced (at his expense). He told me that he found with the service manager a memo from MBUSA which indicates that at least for the 00 320 model the engine comes from the factory with Mobil 1 and thus the subsequent free service must include Mobil 1 (something that the dealer initially refused and then accepted). IHMO 10k miles is still too long to wait for an oil change even for a synthetic oil, so I do it at 5k intervals with Mobil 1 (I have a '98 320). My friend started doing the same even at his expense. It is a small price compared to the price of the truck. I believe that it would definitely be damaging to the engine in the long run to keep a 10k oil change cycle (especially with dino oil).

    It seems that most MB dealers have not adjusted to the fact that their customers nowadays are much younger than in the past and have more technically involved inquiries. At the end we will probably be the ones that pay the price down the road.

    Cheers

    TJ
  • ddykes1ddykes1 Member Posts: 13
    I just picked up my 99 ML320 from the dealer after replacing the sending unit. Filled the tank, and for the first time saw the needle move to Full! I also had them look for a strange noise coming from underneath (suspension related I assume based on when I could hear it), and they lubed the torsion bars, which may have fixed it. My dealer's service loaner today was a 2001 ML320 with 4,000KM - no NAV system unfortunately as I wanted to play with that. Very pleased with my dealer's attentiveness so far.
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    tj98:
    This is the first time I've heard of this. Any chance your friend could get a copy/scan of this memo? :-)
  • bob259bob259 Member Posts: 280
    tj98 Like kenyee and I'm sure others I would love to see, or get,a copy of that letter.
  • bob259bob259 Member Posts: 280
    Had a chance to try the new xenon's out tonight after the alignment. Great side visibility, due to the new light pattern and nice white light. I like the fact that I get just about the same light as I did with the 100w low beams I had installed, but with hardly no stray light. It seems with the other high watt bulbs a lot of the light turns into stray light and reflects back at you. With the xenons and their cut off pattern you don't get that.

    Not sure if the dealer may have aimed them a little to low, or it's just me getting used to the new pattern, but I think they should be a little higher then they are. I'll give it a week and if necessary tweak them myself a little higher.

    My next project is a set of Hella FF100 fogs or a set of the Micro DE's If I use the Micro DE's I may try to mount them in the outer brake ducts in the front valance. Although if I can get the FF100's in a good spot it appears they have a better pattern.
  • bigbaddadbigbaddad Member Posts: 14
    We have the MB hitch bike rack. It works great. The locks that come with it are kind of cool - sliding tabs cover the keyhole. It only holds 2 bikes, but I think you can get an extension for more. I didn't really look at any other hitch racks though. When we were making the purchase we debated the roof mounted racks vs the hitch mount. Hitch mount obviously won. I also like the option a being able to add the ski/board attachments.

    -John
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Member Posts: 278
    What dealer did you take it to in the first place?

    MotorwerksIt may be a streach for you but MotorWerks is GREAT! I have never had a problem with them Tom Healy and Nickey Duax are great to work with. The other guy Dave Moritz, good guy but kinda forgetful sometimes. They have two bays for MB ONLY, the other two garages are for the Porsche, Cadillac, BMW, Infiniti, Honda, Olds, etc. They know how to treat the customers. And if you complain... They listen. One of the reasons that I go to them despite the distance is how they handled my accident last year. They helped me get all the right people to do the right stuff for my car. If planned ahead, they give 230K loaners which are pretty fun.

    Loeber They were Okay. It is what I would have expected from a downtown dealership. No real complaints, they were cut and dry. Come in , drop it off, tell them the problems, pick it up. No real Customer Service. I feel that they did not fully investigate some of the problems that I was having. Their parts counter is another story -- sux. They will give you an oldsmobile loaner. When you get there you will be turned off by the fact that you will have to drive up three stories to get to the service bays and you pull right in to the service area. (but, HEY you are in downtown.) While I'm not going to make excuses for them, I do get there right as the doors open...

    Mark Motors, Arlington Heights, they were okay, I dont like the sales people because they treated me like crap because I look like I'm 19 (I'm 24) and just wanted a free ride. Pretty snobby. The service people are good, and very helpful. They did everything they could to accomidate me, but still not as friendly as MW. These are the people who got me my HIDs, and very reluctant to sell them to me. Since they are one of the smaller dealerships, they are the easiest to get appointments with, they give Intrigue loaners.

    Knauz I havent tried Knauz yet, but I am interested to try them. I have heard good things about them, but mostly on the BMW side. If you try them, please let me know.

    CS is a BIG part of my car. Even the porters at MW were really nice! They drove the car up to me like it was meant to be driven. As you can see where I am biased towards. It may be a bit far, but the service is excellent. Definatly make an appointment.

    I go to Loeber as a Convenience because I live in the burbs, but work downtown. Mark Motors as a secondary backup because it is close to the train, and easier appointments. Otherwise its MW.

    Unfortunatly I think that some of the service people take on an attitude when they see a younger folk driving a Benz. They think that daddy bought it for me, etc. (not true) So it may be a different experience for a more "mature" folk. BTW I experienced the same snobbery when I took my father's previous gasp! lexus to Fletcher Jones in NV. But I recieved royal treatment at the Fletcher Jones MB, but I was also driving the CL500 at the time. . .

    For the record, I have had good treatment at Fields BMW! (Drew you and some others may know what I'm talking about as the topic has been deleted)

    DT, Any related experiences?

    Robert
  • parfive1parfive1 Member Posts: 75
    I've been told numerous times by this board and my dealership that only the E55's, ML55's AMG's come with the Mobil 1 oil.
    I also contacted my dealer today to make arrangements to have my (infamous) squeaky steering wheel fixed on my 00E320. While on the phone I asked about oil changes on service A.
    I told them that I had switched to Mobil 1 at 5k miles and that when I come in for service A, what would be my cost? They said that seeing as though MB covered the cost of regular oil, the only thing that I would pay for would be the difference between the cost of regular oil and Mobil 1.
    This certainly seems fair to me.
    Don't know why everyone else on this board is going out and buying their own Mobil 1.
    BTW..My wife absoulutly loves her 00 ML430. She says it "just glides". ;-)
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Member Posts: 278
    Yep only the AMG models get Mobil1 from day one.

    That is very interesting. I have never heard of a dealer doing that. OKAY I never tried, but I sure will next time. All I can say is make sure you know who you talked to, and if indeed this is true many have wasted $$. However I do believe that this will differ amongst dealerships and definatly not a dealerwide program much like signing the "promise not to export paper"

    Robert
  • rexconde1rexconde1 Member Posts: 278
    Have any of the 01 owners been required to sign this?

    It used to be a paper saying that the customer would not export the ML. Some accross the board have signed it, others havent. I was just wondering if it has changed since the evolution of time.

    Robert
  • cheapdannycheapdanny Member Posts: 12
    I decided against the skid plate. I couldn't justify spending that much money on a skidplate ($500) considering this is a city owned ML....LOL.

    I just passed 1k miles and am ready to convert over to mobil 1 synthetic.

    Just had another somewhat of a snow/rain storm here in the New York (5 inches of slush). The more and more I drive....The more I Love MY ML !!!

    Thanks for all the info.

    Danny d:)
  • cheapdannycheapdanny Member Posts: 12
    Nope, it hasn't changed... I had to sign it also.

    Danny d:)
    01 ML 320
  • mlx52mlx52 Member Posts: 72
    Thank-you for such an in-depth evaluation of the dealerships that are available to me in the Chicagoland area. I feel that Motor Werks is quite a long way for me, but it is worth a try, as I live in the Highland Park area of Chicago. My original dealer was Autohaus, which is right by Fields BMW, where I'm looking, possibly for my next car.

    Thanks quite a bit
    Jamie
  • djohnson64djohnson64 Member Posts: 43
    The worn front pads were diagnosed as the source for the squeals.
    As a result, I am now about $265 short, but I got to drive a 2001 ML loaner.
    My car is only 16K, though. At this rate, I'd be interested in learning how to change the pads myself.
    David
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Like everyone else, I too would be interested in seeing this memo. When I requested the unscheduled oil change to Mobil 1 at 3500+ kms, I was met with great resistance from the service advisor. I was given the usually thing about how the engine would start burning oil due to the more slippery synthetic oil, etc. He really tried to get me to stick with regular oil (which, I must say I've never had any problems with even for 14K kms with another vehicle). 11,000 kms later, the oil level is still "in order". Service A is in 600 kms and I will, of course, be still be going with Mobil 1 5W30.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Did they not replace your front pads (or was it the rears?) because of the squeaks in the past? I'd probably let the service department do it still, but would be interested (just for curiosity sake) as to how to change the pads. I guess the '00 ML430's procedure would be slightly different than the '98-current ML320 and '99 ML430 since the '00 430s have slightly different calipers.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Glad to hear that you've resolved your FSU issues. Why did you (or they) wait this long before getting it changed?

    WRT the torsion bar squeaks (it only happened when very cold in my case), I mentioned this at my last service and they added torsion bar shims in addition to lubing the area. Anyway, problem solved.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Interesting WRT paying the difference for Mobil 1. I guess the question that will be is how much the cost is for Mobil 1 vs. the regular oil? It's a little different for us here since we don't get scheduled maintenance in Canada, but rather the 2 year/40K kms wear and tear warranty.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    At $500 for the skidplate, I can understand. That would be almost as much as the brushguard itself! :-)

    Will you be attempting the oil change yourself or going to the dealer? There are some great DIY instructions here.

    Drew
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  • rexconde1rexconde1 Member Posts: 278
    If you are going by Fields, talk to Barbara Neureman. She is great to deal with and does alot with the BMWCCA.

    Robert
  • djohnson64djohnson64 Member Posts: 43
    Drew,
    They did replace the rear pads some 2 months ago.
    The squeals came back, and now they thought the front pads were the culprit.
    David
  • djohnson64djohnson64 Member Posts: 43
    Mobil 1 = 4 USD @ discount stores
    Regular = 1 USD @ discount stores
    So the difference at Walmart is ~ 3 USD.
    With markup, I'd not be surprised if the difference at the dealership level comes out to be 4 USD out of the customer's pocket.
  • ddykes1ddykes1 Member Posts: 13
    I bought the vehicle used in November from the dealer, and wanted to put some miles on it before starting to complain about problems. All of the discussion of FSU's on this and other lists gave me the back-up to make that case. The only other issue I'd like them to accept is the MY2000 door seals, but they have already said that MB won't authorize this as a warranty fix to a 99. The US experience has varied, but have any other Canadian ML owners had success on this issue?
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