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dt77
http://4x4abc.com/ML320/ml_chains.html
dt77
dt77
If you are really that concern, do a visual inspection yourself, by using a flashlight and look under the truck and behind the wheel, and compare the visible parts with the other side and see if there are any difference or out of place items. Also, you can jack up the wheel that went over the pothole and try this. After the truck is up, grab the wheel on the side, at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock postion. Push on the 3 o'clock position and while you are doing that, pull on the 9 o'clock position and then reverse, push on the 9 and pull on the 3. Do this rapidly with a tab of force, if you feel movement or vibration, then you might have some structure damage. Tie rod, etc. Hope this helps.
dt77
Is the extended warranty worth it or just a gamble?
Any negotiation on pricing?
By the same token, I'm trying with Guam. Let's see what happens...
Thanks for the kudos, biker5, but I had to google.com that one. When I first saw PRI I thought of Mexico (Institutional Revolutionary Party--until recently their ruling party). Having been to all the US states, I would like to add PRI and Guam, Virgin I., etc. to my collection some day, but it's hard to road trip there:-)
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I will have the opportunity to hit the beach soon, but would love to hear from someone who has done it before. The fishing is great out on the outer banks of North Carolina if you can get to it. I never had any trouble with my old Toyota, but I think it had more ground clearance than my new ML. Most of the beach access points are fairly well used so they often have deep wheel rutts. I fear if I air-down the clearance may be insufficient, although by the specs, the ML has a single inch less clearance than my old 4Runner. I used to air it down to 10-15 PSI. The ML tires are A LOT wider to start with, but lower in profile. I would greatly appreciate any experience available from the ML collective.
I think it'll be pretty funny if you don't air down, but I've never tried it.
One thing to watch for is sand dragging into the rear bumper. Some folks on the m-class list have reported that it acts like a scoop and can rip off...
They get whacked on taxes/GST/VAT, etc. over there. Their effective tax rate is closer to 50% if I remember correctly. Gotta pay for their universal health care and older/bigger governments :-)
2. MB dealers in Germany MUST make you sign a form "promising" not to export the car before 12 months after purchase. You still can, but the dealer will receive a hefty fine, and as a result, never sell a car to you again. This is done to protect their dealers in neighboring countries. A fine - new to me.
3. I don't think that any car except may be US$ 80,000 and-up-models sell for this kind of premium, although ML 270 CDIs are in very high demand, and a premium for the spot on the waiting list is possible (Birger should know).
4. The exec who bought the car in the US after transfer probably has a subsidized company car now . 30k in savings sound sorta high.
5. Not everybody in Europe drives MB, and they sure aren't like Chevys. Obviously, you see more of them on German roads than here. Average Europeans are willing to spend more for a car in order to buy quality. This is the main reason for the constantly unsuccessful offerings of US cars in Europe. Prices are almost equal to their European counterparts, quality is not (no flame!)
6. Typically, Europeans hold on to their cars longer than three years, but with incentives and gigantic lease offers, times are beginning to change there, too.
Ken, you are talking about the sum of deductions on your paycheck, which (in Germany) can sum up to 53%, I believe. This, plus gas prices make keeping a certain standard of living there a little more challenging, to say the least. But as long as lots of folks can still afford expensive cars, it does not seem to be too critical, does it?
Hope this is helpful,
Tarik
I think they also get hit w/ a higher state/local sales tax (the non paycheck portion of taxes) than we do; I think that's the 16% VAT you mentioned. I know Canada's definitely is a lot higher than anything in the US.
Frankly, I don't know how folks outside the US do it. I'm in enough pain from doing my taxes this year already (like most folks, my mutual funds threw off lots of capital gains and tanked 40% on top of that)-: Whenever I visit other countries, I get a better appreciation about how good we have it here...
thanx.
dt77
dt77
00 ml430. 10100 miles.
Go to my profile and e-mail me, I will forward you information on getting the extended warranty at a substantial discount. If you plan on keeping your vehicle past the std. warranty period, I would strongly recommend the extended warranty. It doesn't take long for labor and parts to eat up $$. I am not only talking drivetrain (which seems to be trouble-free) but all the computor elctronics, etc. It is also transferrable, a big asset when you want to sell it privately, you can recoup basically what you paid for it. Lets face it, if you were looking at two similiarly equiped vehicles in similiar condition and you had to pay $1000.00 to $1500.00 more on one that had a factory 4 yr/50K mile warranty still on it, which would you buy?
Any idea how much of that is import tax vs. sales tax? I know MB gets a big break for building the ML in the US and using a lot of US suppliers. 2X our price seems a bit extreme :-)
cavman2x:
I had lots of problems w/ getting TeleAid activated. It took two months. The problem was the two magic numbers the TeleAid people had were totally wrong; I think they swapped numbers for an ML in Georgia (they were wondering why they couldn't find my car on their network initially :-) Ask the dealer to give you all the numbers from their diag that takes an hour to run and you can verify the numbers w/ TeleAid.
What annoyed me was that your free year starts from when you purchased it rather when you activated it successfully. I griped to the MBUSA feedback form, but got no reply from them.
Thanks, Harry
Thanks a bunch,
Jamie
On BBs in Europe: There are a lot of MBs, but relatively few ML, mostly base "C"s (stick shift, no sunroof, no leather, sometimes rolling windows, no tint,...) , often running diesel engines used as taxis; private MBs are still a luxury, specially those equipped like most here.
Thank you for your inquiry.
We do not have information on the possible availability of Mobil 1 0W-40
in the U.S. An alternative you may want to consider is Mobil's Delvac 1,
a diesel synthetic motor oil that meets the SJ API rating. Attached
please find a link to the Delvac 1 product data sheet.
http://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/MobilPDS.nsf/26b7c4b33367a4a086256665004e4266/60d8a76e857b7e71852567b60072913a?OpenDocument
--
The above information is provided in good faith based upon the
information presented by the customer. ExxonMobil is not responsible for
any loss or damage resulting from inaccuracies or errors in any of the
information provided or any acts or omissions taken in response to our
advise.
considering--
volvo cross country
highlander
acura mdx
lexus rx300
Ml320
why can't they put the e class diesel in the M class?
considering--
Volvo cross country : My wife's car is a Volvo XC (MY00) While the 01's are nicer I like the ride of the ML better and so does the wife. The Volvo sits low so you don't get a good view of the road like in the ML.
Highlander : Typical Toyota seats and doesn't have to options I'd want, like Xenon's and low tow rating (3,500lbs).
Acura mdx : Will not pay a premium price for any vehicle. Like the NAV system.
Lexus RX300 :I almost bought a RX before I drove the ML. I thought the RX was not as stable at highway speeds and didn't like the Camry unibody base platform. Again only 3,500 lb's of towing capacity.
Ml320 : I would purchase again. I like the torque of the MB V6 and the drive line is the best of those you are comparing with. I like the fact it is a body on frame construction and will allow you to tow up to 5,000 lbs. Best safety record of all SUV's (tied with BMW X5)
All in all, I'm pleased with my choice and would do it all over.
You might try this approach. My 1998 had 42K miles on it when I wrote in. Good luck!
The SA says the ticking sound is from the "purge valve"(?) on the evaporator/filter(?) and it's normal. Hmmmmm....... The A/C was not on, just the heater.
Has anyone noticed this ticking sound coming from the AC/Heater fan area?
I'm assuming MB, like Porsche, has a deal with the Mobil specialty oils for their line of vehicles. It keeps you coming back to the dealer.....
you are right, the one that i saw was 0W-30
not 0W-40..
dt77
dt77