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Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee Brake Problems



  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    That may be dangerous. Maybe you'd better get a good mechanic to check it out, just to stay safe.
  • I was forced to use Midas to repair the brake booster in my 99 Grand Cherokee last April. Since then I've had numerous problems with my cruise control disconnecting for no reason. I recently had an electric car starter installed and I'm having the same problems with that as well. My question is could the mechanic that installed the brake booster have done anything to the system to make this happen. It's as thought the brake pedal is being inadvertently tapped to disconnect the other systems. Any help would be appreciated.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    brake light switch needs to be ajusted
  • Hi, I am having the same problem. Does anyone have the answer for this??
  • I am trying to change brake pads and cant get the bolts undone. I am using an 18 MM socket. Are these left handed threads?
  • brian_2223brian_2223 Posts: 1
    Could be the master cylinder.
  • arbordevarbordev Posts: 1
    4.0 6cyl.

    The chime was going off advising me that my coolant was low. Upon a further look, I found that the float had fallen off the float sensor in the plastic tank, I fixed it and put it back on. Unfortunately the screen and chime kept saying the coolant was low, so I finally went to jeep and bought a new sensor and seal for the coolant tank. After installing it, I had not gone fifteen minutes and the chime and the screen advised me that the coolant was low.

  • Hi i'm having a problem with the pedal going almost to the floor when the engine
    is running. With the engine off pedal is normal.
    the abs light is on.
    i have changed all the fluid and bleed the system.
    any help would be appreciated
  • timmer23timmer23 Posts: 24
    "i'm having a problem with the pedal going almost to the floor when the engine
    is running. With the engine off pedal is normal.

    Sounds like there is either air in the lines or a problem with the power booster. This happened to me when I didn't pay attention and installed new front brake calipers on the wrong sides, which put the bleed valve at the bottom instead of the top (allowing air to remain in the calipers.)
  • we changed the brake pads,rotars, calipers, and bleed the whole system, and the brakes are still real soft and they go all the way to the floor and dont even stop, i have had a few idea's as far as changing the master cylinder, any ideas.
  • Don't tell anyone, but I made the mistake of installing new calipers on the wrong sides one time which resulted in the brake pedal going to the floor. Just make sure the bleeder valve is at the top. ;)
  • pjs412pjs412 Posts: 2
    I recently changed a bad booster on my 89 cherokee. the master cylinder worked fine before i changed the booster so i put it back on. i bled the system until i had clean fluid at all 4 wheels, yet had little resistance on the pedal. so i installed a new master and bled the system again. still had little resistance on the pedal so i adjusted the plunger on the booster out. it now stops, but too well. the pedal is VERY sensitive so much so that the pedal doesn't travel far enough to operate the brake lights, but the pedal will still travel all the way to the floor. What do I need to try next?
  • robie2robie2 Posts: 4
    hello i have a 1990 jeep cherokee and it seem to just have the front brakes working does anyone know if there is a sensor or wire that can correct this problem thank you
  • robie2robie2 Posts: 4
    hello does anyone know if there is a sencor or wire or vacuum hose to the brake booster or master cylinder because it seem that my front brakes only work i cheked my brake pads and all are ok can anyone help me please thanks
  • robie2robie2 Posts: 4
    hello not sure if i am doing this write i am new to this site i am trying to post 1 but i get directed to last so i will try again i have a 1990 cherokee and i only have front brakes working does anyone know if there is a sencor or wire or vacuum line to the booster or mastercylinder thanks
  • cschow1cschow1 Posts: 1
    it only happens after I have been driving for a while. We have replaced both calipers and the master cylinder. Any Ideas?
  • dkblue69dkblue69 Posts: 1
    In my estimation, your over-heated brakes are being caused by sticky calipers. Many times, when you replace brake pads, this forces the internal piston seals to operate in a region that has accumulated residue (rust, sludge, etc). I have had the same thing happen on my Chevy truck. You may be able to get away with just changing pads once without this happening, but its likely you would either need to change the calipers or rebuild them with new piston seals after honing the caliper cylinders for the car's second brake job. I know this is probably getting to you about two years late, but there it is.
  • 4x4jeep4x4jeep Posts: 13
    whats your fluid look like, i would say on each wheel bleed the brakes, if that didnt help any then go with master cylinder. i am prosuming the abs has no codes. it sounds like the master cyclinder isnt releasing. :confuse:
  • 1998 Jeep Cherokee 6 cyl 4x4 Automatic

    I just replaced the front u-joints, rotors, and pads on it. However after test driving the jeep, a horrible clunking/griding noise comes from what sounds like the front left side of the jeep at LOW speeds. Applying the brake at 35mph+ renders nothing at all, just at low speeds. It is very loud and annoying, you can feel it right in the pedal. Any ideas? I double checked the pads/rotors and everything looks fine. I am guessing it has something to do with ABS? I need help! Thanks...
  • drbrakedrbrake Posts: 1
    It is most likely that you have set the booster output pushrod too long.
    This rod should almost never be adjusted. The tolerance on the rod length is ± 0.007"

    With the rod too long you are keeping the ports in the master cylinder closed and pressure is building up in the system and probably dragging the brakes.

    Back off the length of the rod until you are sure you are not trapping any pressure in the system. This has to be checked with vacuum in the booster and the system at normal operating temperatures.

    hope this helps
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    on my 2000 grand the brake peddel return is the boster it self when you get brake drage just put your toe under the brake peddle and lift tworde you see if releases the brakes if does then look for binding in the pins that conect the boster to the peddle
  • airock2000 did you ever find the answer to your problem because I have the exact same issue and it is driving me crazy trying to find an answer.
  • Yes, I did! I had recently replaced the u-joints in the front wheels and part of the spindle got broken a bit with the hammer, so when it was spinning the abs sensor was not picking up the correct reading, so at low speeds it caused the abs to kick in and go haywire. What I did was disconnect the abs sensor in the front wheel and it turned the abs off, now my brakes work fine.
  • Hi all!

    I've got a 2004 Grand Cherokee (Limited, 4.7V8, etc) that is coming up on 150K and is in need of some new brake components once again. Rather than go to the shop and get bent over like usual, I'm going to just tackle this one myself. I've done it before, so that's not the issue. My problem is that I don't know what pads and rotors to go with.

    Now, I'm not looking to cheap out here. I'd like to get some pads that offer good performance for towing. I pull a 12 foot open trailer for both work and play, with loads ranging from a couple motocross bikes to 2000 pound of various raw materials. So towing performance is mandatory.

    Conversely, this Jeep- despite being dearly loved- has seen a hard life of work, play and roadtrips, and wil probably be lucky to see 200k, so I don't want to get anything too expensive. Just something to last me the life of the vehicle.

  • Ah, jeez, I don't know how I ended up posting in this, I meant to start a new discussion. Sorry.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    This is probably as good a place as any. People tend to follow exisiting discussions and may not see a brand new one anyway, especially if it seems to be a "duplicate".
  • Hi James,

    I just finished my brake job this afternoon. I went with the ceramic pads from auto zone. They all had a life time warranty. so I went with the cheep ones. I found out during my pizza delivery days that the metallic pads did last longer but the rotors didn't last as long. If you need to take the rotors off, good luck!. You need to get the retaining clip off the stud the get the biggest hammer you have and beat the hell out of it to loosen it off the hub. use a piece of wood to protect the rotor.
  • hello, i have a 2002 jeep grand cherokee overland. i just changed the front rotors and pads and also changed the rear rotors and pads, i have a squeaking noise coming from the back, i had the same noise before i changed all the parts. anybody know what the problem is? plz help the noise is driving me nuts!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    rear wheel bearing?
  • well what happened was i changed the brake pads and rotors on the rear and the noise stopped for 3 days and now its back as it was before i changed the rotors and brakes,,
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