Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee Brake Problems

hello just bought a 99 jeep cherokee 2wd.the frt brakes work well,but it requires heavy pressure on pedel to engage rear brakes.frt lock up and abs activtes before rear engage.ant help would be appreciated
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mj
Are these pads as good as you say? Also, did you have to change anything besides the pads? I have a 2007 SRT8 and I cant stand all the break dust.
Thanks...
Butta
Butta
also relpaced caplers and used good pads 56000 on the pads so far and still ok
mine 2000 jgc 4.7 4x4
Good luck!
when you change them put on aftermarket not oem will have prob again have had aftermarket ones on my jgc with 50000 miles so far no prob
I own an '03 GC
Warped rotors replaced under warranty at 10k
Warped rotors replaced under warranty at 22k
Warped rotor replaced by me at 38k
Piece of [non-permissible content removed].
I guess if you want to drive a jeep, plan on replacing rotors every year.
By ther way, the pads last forever. I don't think its my driving style. Also, I've never had the vehicle off road.
A CLASS ACTION SUIT AND THIS ROTOR PROBLEM
BEEN GOING ON FOR YEARS HELP
I deliver mail in neighborhoods out of my Cherokee, so the brakes get really hot with the constant stops. Sometimes the pads glaze and brake after being installed a short time. I'm considering replacing the pads before they wear down to the point of needing to be replaced to see if that helps any. I've been tempted to purchase slotted rotors, but am too worried to spend hundreds of dollars on a pair of rotors and have them get messed up as well.
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Jeep Cherokee rear brakes universally suck. It's just a fact of life XJ'rs live with... and occasionally pucker the seat with when stopping. Sorry - about the politest way to put it.
Complete brake fluid changes are an often neglected area of maintenance.
Jeep brake hoses, older ones especially, are prone to collapsing internally and can create a 'valve' that prevents full pressure from reaching a caliper or the rears.
The drum brake auto-adjuster hardware is garbage. Replace it ALL every time you install new drums. It still won't work... but you'll feel better.
Early XJ's can benefit from a 96 booster & master cylinder swap which ditches the single diaphragm booster for a double diaphragm unit. Master cylinder swaps, prop valve swaps, hose replacements... you name it, it's been tried to cure this common ill for XJ's.
Grand Cherokee rear discs are a popular swap as well as others if you are mechanically inclined and willing to do some fab work.
I ended up swapping in Crown Victoria police car rear discs, new prop valve, new stainless lines & have a hydroboost unit to go in...
Is this normal or acceptable for the pump to be running so frequently? If not, is there an easy fix (replacing the pressure sensor switch)?
do you have to push harder or what
if have to push harder could be vac buster going bad
if peddle goes all the way to floor and you have to pump the brakes then bad master cyl
if the fluid has never been changed that could be your prob would change master cylender and try that
you may have answered a problem I have been researching for years. What can I do with my useless rear brakes, 89xj trail rig.
Other than the swap from a donor 96 Booster and master cylinder, are there any clearance issues? Would I have to relocate anything for that one?
Do you happen to know which year of Grand Cherokee Brakes, and what would I have to fabricate? I am okay at fabs, minor and have friends who are much better than I if I need it.
They are looking for the same upgrades.
Randy
rc
Keep the rubber side pointed down, or at least sideways.
Sounds like the brake booster to me
A couple weeks ago my left-rear brakes were grinding. I removed the drum to find a mess. I'm not sure which happened first, but one side of the wheel cylinder was broken, the parking brake strut had fallen out of place, the shoe lining was completely worn and digging into the drum.
I replaced the drum on the left side and the shoes, wheel cylinders and all springs on both sides. The brakes seem to be working fine, however I still hear a grinding sound when I brake, typically only while braking firmly after the brakes have gotten hot. I checked all four brakes today, and everything looks good except that the shoes on the left-rear are already half worn. I would guess that the left rear is sticking (perhaps there is a clog in the line?), but I had no trouble removing the drum. In fact, the drum came off easier than the right side.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions as to why the shoes are wearing down and how to fix it?
Jeep's are heavier than passenger and all that extra vehicle body weight causes more friction when the brakes are applied and please make sure you use ceramic brake pads and this will be the end of your break problem issues I promise
For anyone with a 1999 to 2004 GC that has grinding brakes and has spent a fortune on garage repairs to no avail, I hope that you can all help to find the answer to this question.
After hours on the internet I have found out that there was a class action against Daimler Chrysler alleging that the front brake components including the rotors and calipers are faulty such that some of the vehichles manifest pulsation when the brake pedal is applied. A $14 million decision on GC's from 2003 and 2004 meant that they were eligible for free repair (or payment for repairs) under the warranty (in the USA!! I can find no class action info here in the UK) - earlier cars like mine are still pending. However this is not really the problem the problem is how best it is fixed.
I cannot get any information from Jeep UK as to how to rectify this problem without taking it to a main dealer and paying them a fortune. I know that Service Bulletin 05-003-06 informs of how to fix the problem but they will not let me have it or know whats on it! Does anyone know?
I figure that I need to change the rotors and calipers but have read in many messages that the standard ones are useless and therefore need ceramic ones? Can anyone out there let me know what are the recommended best parts to fix this problem.
I would be eternally grateful if you could, I have spent a fortune on having new pads and hoses and having the brakes stripped and replaced but still the grinding!
A further question if I may...does anyone know what causes the singing sound at highway speeds again I think it is a common 2001 GC fault if you know how it can be fixed please let me know!
Thanks to all.
Astrea
"The best thing I ever did for a Jeep Grand Cherokee was put in NAPA near premium pads and rotors. The cost was close to $300 for parts and well worth it, to get rid of the maddening brake wear that Jeep doesn't see fit to address themselves! "
My 2004 JGC has 56K miles on it now, and that's about 35K since the brake job. My system seems to still be very good, and only quite recently I have heard some squeals at times. I must take a look at the pads and rotors and assess current wear, and will do so the next time the rig is on a lift for tire rotation.
So far the slotted rotors with ceramic pads have been flawless, but I won't know just how good until I approach 25,000 miles. One very nice feature of the ceramic pads is that there is no buildup of brake dust on the front wheels. They stay as clean as the rear wheels. I think there are other posts touting vented rotors and ceramic pads. You have nothing to lose by trying them because the factory rotors and pads for the front wheels are absolutely worthless.
None of our other vehicles do it.
The Emission seems fairly constant as the remote control unit will not work untill the jeep is driven out of range (around 30 yards)
It occurs regardless of the remote being in the jeep or not.
It has ocurred with the engine switched off as well