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Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee Brake Problems

jacksmatrixxxjacksmatrixxx Member Posts: 1
edited May 2016 in Jeep
hello just bought a 99 jeep cherokee 2wd.the frt brakes work well,but it requires heavy pressure on pedel to engage rear brakes.frt lock up and abs activtes before rear engage.ant help would be appreciated
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Comments

  • aaaaa5staraaaaa5star Member Posts: 5
    As requested i have found and tried the Rotex Gold pads for my SRT8 they are extremely clean, and i am now washing my wheels every 3-4 weeks vs. every other day. I picked them up at brakeworld.com performance brake pads

    mj
  • butta_fabbutta_fab Member Posts: 6
    MJ,
    Are these pads as good as you say? Also, did you have to change anything besides the pads? I have a 2007 SRT8 and I cant stand all the break dust.

    Thanks...
    Butta
  • aaaaa5staraaaaa5star Member Posts: 5
    yeah they really cut out the dust. HUGE difference.
  • aaaaa5staraaaaa5star Member Posts: 5
  • butta_fabbutta_fab Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info. I think I will check them out. Did you have change anything else???

    Butta
  • 2klaredo2klaredo Member Posts: 2
    It has come time for me to change the brakes to my 2000 Jeep GC Lareda. I have an I6 with 4WD and need new brakes and rotors. Considering ceramic brakes, any recommendations for parts and in the replacement?
  • kserkser Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone other than myself have to re-place rotors and pads about every 10,000 miles? I'm at my wits end never mind broke. I've even tried new callipers didn't work. Now I'm told maybe we should try changing the hubs and bearings to see if this stops the warping of the rotors. Any suggestions out there other than get rid of it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    I got replacement roters from pep boys
    also relpaced caplers and used good pads 56000 on the pads so far and still ok
    mine 2000 jgc 4.7 4x4
  • oldjeepoldjeep Member Posts: 3
    Try replacing the rotors with vented ones. They dissipate the heat which causes the warping of the standard rotors. I have the 99 grand cherokee and lived the brake nightmare for years. But once the rotors were upgraded to the vented ones, I got a good 50K on them before my next replacement.

    Good luck!
  • riemfamriemfam Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 GC just had it's 3rd set of replacement front rotors put on it in less than 4 years. Each set seems to last 1 year. The latest ones lasted only 6,000 miles. Jeep knows they had a bad brake system in 2003 and earlier. My jeep was manufactured prior to June, 2003.
  • ramos01ramos01 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 GC with 90k miles. I've avoided the brake/rotor problems, still using the original rotors and replacing the brakes years ago. The past 6 months I noticed a reduced braking ability and slight pulsation. I figured my good luck has run out. BUT, the dealership said my rotors are fine and I have 80% of my brake pad left. He didn't do the repair even though I was willing to pay for it. WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE? I'm not imagining things.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    still the roters
    when you change them put on aftermarket not oem will have prob again have had aftermarket ones on my jgc with 50000 miles so far no prob
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    My daughter has a 2004 GC she bought new, and got only 20+K out of the original front brakes. Once we got past the anger of not getting a repair under warranty, a friend at NAPA helped me out. I bought a set of "upmarket" rotors that were just below the top of the line rotors. The pads were ceramic, as I recall, and were recommended in the NAPA literature for Grand Cherokees. I have never been happier with a brake solution I have selected. I would recommend NAPA replacement rotors and pads to any owner suffering from those fast-to-fail brakes. I have just recently purchased a 2007 GC for myself. I'll keep an eye on the brakes, believe me.
  • kingekinge Member Posts: 2
    I owned a 1999 Grand Cherokee, and the brake rotors had to be replaced due to warping every 10K to 15K miles. I traded it in for a 1994 model after being told the brake problem had been fixed. NO SO!. The '94 has been in for brake vibration every 15K or so, but the dealer took care of all expenses. At 40K I needed new front rotors, but the dealer said he could not warranty them past 12K miles, which has proven to be an unacceptable time frame. The dealer said that several customers had installed cryogenic slotted rotors with ceramic pads, which have been successful to date, and I had my dealer do the same. Time will tell. Rotors and pads were sourced by my dealer from Tirerack.com, and the prices were very reasonable.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    You might want to try the NAPA fix I put forth in #10 above. My daughter's 2004 is nearing 50,000 miles, and the front brakes remain perfect.
  • chrstphrchrstphr Member Posts: 2
    Howdy kser
    I own an '03 GC
    Warped rotors replaced under warranty at 10k
    Warped rotors replaced under warranty at 22k
    Warped rotor replaced by me at 38k
    Piece of [non-permissible content removed].
    I guess if you want to drive a jeep, plan on replacing rotors every year.
    By ther way, the pads last forever. I don't think its my driving style. Also, I've never had the vehicle off road.
    :cry: C
  • keithy02keithy02 Member Posts: 9
    BIG BUCKS HERE FOR NEW ROTORS HEARD THERE WAS
    A CLASS ACTION SUIT AND THIS ROTOR PROBLEM
    BEEN GOING ON FOR YEARS HELP
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    I had gotten in the habit of turning the rotors every year and replacing when I couldn't turn any more. I began to think that perhaps the problem was because I was using cheap pads, so I bought heavier-duty pads but that didn't make a difference.

    I deliver mail in neighborhoods out of my Cherokee, so the brakes get really hot with the constant stops. Sometimes the pads glaze and brake after being installed a short time. I'm considering replacing the pads before they wear down to the point of needing to be replaced to see if that helps any. I've been tempted to purchase slotted rotors, but am too worried to spend hundreds of dollars on a pair of rotors and have them get messed up as well.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Timmer23 - yah, I had the same problem... didn't burn the rotors up that bad but rears just wouldn't pull their weight leaving the fronts to do most of the work. Watch that - first time you have a panic stop on ice/snow/rain you'll lock the fronts and the rear axle will keep pushin' ya right along if you have an automatic. (Ask me how I know...) Long story short: the problem w/ burning up the fronts is often caused by the rears not doing their share of the braking. Causes can be anything from a master cylinder that's not doing the job for the rear circuit, bad adjuster hardware for rear drums (common), to bad rear hose (also common), bad prop valve (less common but still to be considered)...

    -------------------------------------------

    Jeep Cherokee rear brakes universally suck. It's just a fact of life XJ'rs live with... and occasionally pucker the seat with when stopping. Sorry - about the politest way to put it.

    Complete brake fluid changes are an often neglected area of maintenance.

    Jeep brake hoses, older ones especially, are prone to collapsing internally and can create a 'valve' that prevents full pressure from reaching a caliper or the rears.

    The drum brake auto-adjuster hardware is garbage. Replace it ALL every time you install new drums. It still won't work... but you'll feel better. :D

    Early XJ's can benefit from a 96 booster & master cylinder swap which ditches the single diaphragm booster for a double diaphragm unit. Master cylinder swaps, prop valve swaps, hose replacements... you name it, it's been tried to cure this common ill for XJ's.

    Grand Cherokee rear discs are a popular swap as well as others if you are mechanically inclined and willing to do some fab work.

    I ended up swapping in Crown Victoria police car rear discs, new prop valve, new stainless lines & have a hydroboost unit to go in...
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    I've noticed in the majority of Cherokee's I've owned that the rear brakes didn't seem to be doing their share of braking. A few months ago I took my 2000 Cherokee to a mechanic to diagnose a braking problem that I couldn't figure out. It was an easy fix for him (stupid oversight on my part), and while he was at it he adjusted the rear brakes and told me to get in the habit of using the parking brake, which keeps the rear brakes adjusted. Right away I had more braking power and could tell that the rear brakes were working better.
  • 68gtxman68gtxman Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4WD automatic 4.0L (160K miles) that I picked up recently and before I fix the body damage, I noticed the ABS hydraulic pump comes on and runs for 10 seconds, then stops for 15 seconds and then repeats. This happens with the engine running in park or drive and whether or not you are stepping on the brake pedal. I figure that this is quickly wearing out the (expensive?) pump, so maybe I should just part the car out. The brakes seem to work normally when driving, but the pump continues cycling.

    Is this normal or acceptable for the pump to be running so frequently? If not, is there an easy fix (replacing the pressure sensor switch)?
  • afreeafree Member Posts: 1
    As so many other people my rotors also warped. I decided to replace the rotors and while there put in replacement pads. Here's the problem. After replacing them both I test drove the car about ten miles and brakes were so hot they smoked and when put on a jack the wheel (pass side) wouldn't turn until cool. I took the pads off 4 times (both sides) to check if I overlooked something. Each time the test drive ended the same way Pass side, then drive side then pass side again. I returned the pads and replaced with better ones and same thing happens again. If I put the old pads back in all problems go away. Has anyone heard of this? I'm not new to brakes but can't figure this one out. Do I need to replace both the front and back at the same time? Seems strange to me. Please help me someone!!!!
  • baskett2baskett2 Member Posts: 3
    ABS light came on and will not go out. I found the front sensors and they are plug in. I found one more plug on either side which I think go to the rear sensor. Does anyone know that for sure. I also have noticed sometimes that the Jeep going up hill will miss a few times and then smothes back out. Does anyone know what to check for on this problem. I need to get the ABS light off as I can't stand it. I have not had the Jeep very long. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
  • baskett2baskett2 Member Posts: 3
    The other two sensors that I am talking about are on the firewall by the front sensors that are plug in. The other two are females and do not have the male plug.
  • lacgeistlacgeist Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a Grand Cherokee for my 16 year old. Is 105,000 miles a lot of miles for one of these? I know Wranglers go way beyond that with no problem. Laura G
  • baskett2baskett2 Member Posts: 3
    Hey I think this is a great vehicle for a 16 year old. He/she will be sitting higher while driving and this will help with their vision. It does not have that much power unless you get a V-8 but this is a good thing for a 16 year old. When you buy something like this you have to consider they will probably have some type of accident while they are young. You are talking about someone who average 11,666 miles per year. That is very good and the inline 6 will run a long time. Depending what you are going to pay for it I say go for it. They are fairly easy to work on. Hope this helps with your answer. I would not be afraid to buy it. Good luck!!!
  • jelsonjelson Member Posts: 2
    i own a 1990 jeep cherokee limited 4x4. it has spent a lot of time in the shop. i am having brake problems. as in brakes that bottom out when you really have to lay on them. the pedal is spongy and when it bottoms out i don't mean on the floorboard it seems to bottom out in the master cylinder. this jeep had anti lock brakes on it when i got it and something went wrong with the module locking up the rear brakes when you were sitting at a stop sign. anyways they wanted about $1500 for a module so i didn't get one. instead i removed all the anti lock stuff and went conventional power brakes. to date it is all new from front to rear. here is what is new, booster master cylinder proportioning valve (new chrysler) all lines except the short two to the front brakes, both brake hoses on the front wheels and the single one on to the rear axle. new rear drums shoes and springs, new front rotors and calipers and shoes i have double checked all the part #'s and everything checks out(all parts are aftermarket for a 1990 jeep cherokee with standard power brakes)i have put on 3 new master cylinders. i have mostly front brakes and hardly any rear. i have fluid to the rear but it doesn't seem to have much pressure. i cannot lock up any of the brakes even in the gravel. they have been bled out about 50 times. under normal stopping conditions it doesn't stop too bad but still seems to be front brakes and the pedal pretty far down. it seems to have a lot of vacuum to the booster also. ... any help with this one would be appreciated thanks jim
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    have you checked that you have a little clearance on your rod that goes into your master cylender? so that you are letting the piston in the master cylender move oll the way out? if you don't have the piston move all the way out you could only have front brakes as the rear part of master cylender piston works the rear brakes.
  • jeffhodgejeffhodge Member Posts: 2
    I have 2001 JGC 4.7L V-8 with the quadra drive with 150K on it. During the past several months the brakes have gone in and out. At times, the pedal loses all of its pressure and other times the pedal and brakes work just fine. There are no leaks. I have never opened up any lines. I just took it to a mechanic and he could not find nothing wrong and the brakes worked fine for him. I need some help! Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    when the peddle looses all pressure can you still stop jeep?
    do you have to push harder or what
    if have to push harder could be vac buster going bad
    if peddle goes all the way to floor and you have to pump the brakes then bad master cyl
  • jeffhodgejeffhodge Member Posts: 2
    it does not stop when i lose pressure and the pedal goes to the floor. it seems like pumping the pedal does help. can the master cylinder be bad even if it does not leak???
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    yes has small little rubber like cups inside that push the fluid and they can gobad
    if the fluid has never been changed that could be your prob would change master cylender and try that
  • curt587curt587 Member Posts: 4
    I bought my 96 Laredo with 93K and now have 308K on the engine. I've had problems with the brakes and A/C but it continues to run fine without major problems.
  • generalraidergeneralraider Member Posts: 1
    I have changes out all the brakes and the rear brake cyl flushed out the lines but no pressure to the back anybody know how to fix this issue? :confuse:
  • 4wheelfan4wheelfan Member Posts: 6
    Hey,
    you may have answered a problem I have been researching for years. What can I do with my useless rear brakes, 89xj trail rig.

    Other than the swap from a donor 96 Booster and master cylinder, are there any clearance issues? Would I have to relocate anything for that one?

    Do you happen to know which year of Grand Cherokee Brakes, and what would I have to fabricate? I am okay at fabs, minor and have friends who are much better than I if I need it.

    They are looking for the same upgrades.

    Randy
    rc

    Keep the rubber side pointed down, or at least sideways.
  • fuzz05fuzz05 Member Posts: 5
    I have 1993 cherokee sport. after driving or letting sit at idle my brake pedal gets really high. Ive replaced both front calipers and both front hoses. The master cylinder has been replaced also. I have no ABS so thats ruled out but i have bypassed the proportioning valve and the problem still exists. Any ideas? Im getting extremely frustrated.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    power brake boster between master cyl and fire wall
  • fuzz05fuzz05 Member Posts: 5
    correct me if im wrong but if the booster goes i wouldnt have a pedal. when the key is off and i press the brake the booster checks out air tight. the pedal rises like it supposed to. everyone ive talked to is completely baffled. but hey i hope your right. thank you.
  • fuzz05fuzz05 Member Posts: 5
    the other thing is when i crack the bleeder loose on the passenger side the pressure releases and i have no problems again until the next day. so to me that would be something hydraulic right?
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    > after driving or letting sit at idle my brake pedal gets really high

    Sounds like the brake booster to me
  • fuzz05fuzz05 Member Posts: 5
    well again i hope you guys are right cause im gonna try that. I will let you all know if that fixes the problem. Again thank you for all your help.
  • fuzz05fuzz05 Member Posts: 5
    well i never replaced the booster. Only for the fact that when i removed the master i found that a whle back i adjusted the adjuster rod out and never put it back in again. I adjusted it back in half way and BAM!!! problem fixed. But thank you for all your help everyone.
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    First off, I use my 2000 Cherokee to deliver mail, so I do a lot of braking. I've been using this Cherokee since January 2006, and the rear brakes hadn't been touched until several months ago when a mechanic adjusted the rear brakes when I was having some service done. (The result was a very noticeable improvement in braking. He also advised me to use the parking brake regularly, as doing so would keep the rear brakes adjusted.)

    A couple weeks ago my left-rear brakes were grinding. I removed the drum to find a mess. I'm not sure which happened first, but one side of the wheel cylinder was broken, the parking brake strut had fallen out of place, the shoe lining was completely worn and digging into the drum.

    I replaced the drum on the left side and the shoes, wheel cylinders and all springs on both sides. The brakes seem to be working fine, however I still hear a grinding sound when I brake, typically only while braking firmly after the brakes have gotten hot. I checked all four brakes today, and everything looks good except that the shoes on the left-rear are already half worn. I would guess that the left rear is sticking (perhaps there is a clog in the line?), but I had no trouble removing the drum. In fact, the drum came off easier than the right side.

    Anyone have any ideas or suggestions as to why the shoes are wearing down and how to fix it?
  • jelsonjelson Member Posts: 2
    the first thing i would check is to see if the parking brake cable is hanging up on that side keeping the brake on . they are famous on about all vehicle for rusting when not used. and then when you use them after a long time the rusted section of cable hangs up inside the cable housing. you'll need to have someone operate the parking brake while you watch underneath to see if it is moving freely. if everything is working properly then i would check the brake cylinder on that wheel again you will need two people. one to push slowly on the brake pedal and you to see if the cylinder is expanding the shoes then returning by the spring pressure to where is should be. my guess is that it is the emergency brake cable. you may not be able to free it up and may have to replace it. mine on my cherokee hasn't been used for so long it won't even move. hope this helps ...jim
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could also be the flex line that is going bad inside
  • carl_manleycarl_manley Member Posts: 3
    Please purchase vented rotors because they cool down faster than regular rotors
    Jeep's are heavier than passenger and all that extra vehicle body weight causes more friction when the brakes are applied and please make sure you use ceramic brake pads and this will be the end of your break problem issues I promise
  • astreaastrea Member Posts: 1
    Please help! :

    For anyone with a 1999 to 2004 GC that has grinding brakes and has spent a fortune on garage repairs to no avail, I hope that you can all help to find the answer to this question.

    After hours on the internet I have found out that there was a class action against Daimler Chrysler alleging that the front brake components including the rotors and calipers are faulty such that some of the vehichles manifest pulsation when the brake pedal is applied. A $14 million decision on GC's from 2003 and 2004 meant that they were eligible for free repair (or payment for repairs) under the warranty (in the USA!! I can find no class action info here in the UK) - earlier cars like mine are still pending. However this is not really the problem the problem is how best it is fixed.

    I cannot get any information from Jeep UK as to how to rectify this problem without taking it to a main dealer and paying them a fortune. I know that Service Bulletin 05-003-06 informs of how to fix the problem but they will not let me have it or know whats on it! Does anyone know?

    I figure that I need to change the rotors and calipers but have read in many messages that the standard ones are useless and therefore need ceramic ones? Can anyone out there let me know what are the recommended best parts to fix this problem.

    I would be eternally grateful if you could, I have spent a fortune on having new pads and hoses and having the brakes stripped and replaced but still the grinding!

    A further question if I may...does anyone know what causes the singing sound at highway speeds again I think it is a common 2001 GC fault if you know how it can be fixed please let me know!

    Thanks to all.

    Astrea
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    Back on 06 FEB 2006 I posted the following statement in the forum titled: Stop here! Let's talk about brakes...

    "The best thing I ever did for a Jeep Grand Cherokee was put in NAPA near premium pads and rotors. The cost was close to $300 for parts and well worth it, to get rid of the maddening brake wear that Jeep doesn't see fit to address themselves! "

    My 2004 JGC has 56K miles on it now, and that's about 35K since the brake job. My system seems to still be very good, and only quite recently I have heard some squeals at times. I must take a look at the pads and rotors and assess current wear, and will do so the next time the rig is on a lift for tire rotation.
  • kingekinge Member Posts: 2
    My 2004 Grand Cherokee had the same problem with pulsating brakes as my 1999. The dealer covered all expenses on my 2004 until 40,000 miles, but after that I was told that the factory 12,000 mile warranty would apply. Since the rotors warp between 12,000 and 18,000 miles just like clockwork, replacing them with factory rotors and shoes was not considered to be a good investment. My Jeep dealer mentioned that several customers had installed cryogenic slotted rotors with ceramic pads sourced from tirerack.com. I had the dealer order them for me at a slight upcharge over what I could have bought them direct to make sure the correct parts were ordered. In the end, the total installed price was very little more than if I had used factory parts.

    So far the slotted rotors with ceramic pads have been flawless, but I won't know just how good until I approach 25,000 miles. One very nice feature of the ceramic pads is that there is no buildup of brake dust on the front wheels. They stay as clean as the rear wheels. I think there are other posts touting vented rotors and ceramic pads. You have nothing to lose by trying them because the factory rotors and pads for the front wheels are absolutely worthless.
  • gdoddsgdodds Member Posts: 1
    My XJ zaps the automatic gates as I drive up to them!
    None of our other vehicles do it.
    The Emission seems fairly constant as the remote control unit will not work untill the jeep is driven out of range (around 30 yards)
    It occurs regardless of the remote being in the jeep or not.
    It has ocurred with the engine switched off as well
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