About the Maintenance and Repair Message Board

mike12528

My 1989 Toyota Camry's heater is no longer working. Air is coming out of the vents but it is not hot air. Does anyone have any suggestions on what the problem can be. I have looked my self and there seems to be nothing wrong with the car.......nothing is leaking etc. The only thing is my check engine light came on. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.

bobs5

First off, check to make sure the radiator is full.

The air which comes out now, is it at least slightly warm or the same temperature as the outside air?

Run the engine until fully warm, then check the hoses which go to the heater core, they should be hot to the touch. If the hoses are not hot, there is a problem with the heating system (some cars are equipped with a valve which opens to allow the hot coolant to go to the heater core).

If the heater hoses are hot, then the problem may be with the duct work. Inside the duct housing should be a door which directs the air from either the vents or to the heater core, when the temperature control is selected. This door may be operated by a cable or a vacuum damper.

Heater core may be plugged.

Good luck

graphicguy

I originally posted the following in the Sedans conference. My 3 month old, 2000 model Grand Prix was in a fairly serious accident over the holidays (no one injured, no one's fault...just bad driving conditions...no citations issued). Suggestions, comments would be appreciated. The last thing that I want in this scenario is to end up with a "trouble prone" nearly new car because of this accident. I suspect that there is suspension damage in the front (not good with a FWD car), the whole passenger side will have to be re-done as well as the hood.

"My beloved GP was hit
pretty hard and it looks like there's about $5K
worth of damage. I ended up taking it to the
dealer to have it repaired.

Upon seeing the car in their body shop, the
general sales manager of the dealership came up to
me to offer condolences when I was inspecting the
damage. Considering how hard the may car was hit,
I was pleasantly surprised how well the GP held up
and how I walked away without a scratch.

The sales manager was curious if I still wanted
the car after it was fixed. It only has 4,000 miles
on it. I asked him what point he was trying to
make. He said that they make much more money on
used cars than new. He further explained that he
had a lot of faith in their collision center to fix
the car right. He also said that GMAC is offering
some very attractive financing through January and
that they "MAY BE" able to swap me for another new
GTP with little increase in payments. The dealer
would fix the car at their "cost" and resell it, as
they can't keep GTPs on the lot.

OK, my interest is piqued. IF they repair my car
to near new condition, what is a 2000 GP GTP 4 door
with Bose CD, 1SC, and Hi-Po wheels, 4K miles,
bright red, MSRP $27,215, be worth to a dealer.
Any ideas out there?"

jsemro

how would i go about fixing my leaking doors on my explorer. every time it rains the water runs down the seam of the doors and in to my explorer. and the wind blows under the bottom of the doors to. is there a way of fixing this my self or do i have to bring it in to the shop?

bobs5

You could probably buy a new weather seal at an auto parts store, or at the dealers parts counter.

If this vehicle is still under warranty, then take it to the dealer for repair.

edudu

I own a '98 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4. Up until now it has been a great little truck, peppy and fun. A week and a half ago the rear end locked up on it and it would not budge. (second occurrence) Last time this happened I nudged it and it broke loose, the repair techs said it must have been a hung brake, so I took their word for it. When it happened last week I had it towed to the ford dealership. When my truck arrived I got the same response "you got a brake hung". Aside from the fact that "Bubba" is supposed to be a certified technician and not just a grease monkey, I wondered how much he was really concerned about fixing the problems with my truck. I found out 4 days later when I got the truck back. They replaced a module, I don't know which one since I do not speak fluent gibberish. I had the truck for one day, and noticed some differences, it seems a little more peppy, yet something was wrong. The second day I had it back the windshield wipers refused to come on, and once I got them on, they were stuck on high. I shut the truck off, and then it would not start again. Once again after a short rest the truck started, and ran fine. When I took the truck into the dealer, with the wipers flapping away, the seemed rather unconcerned. They began naming off things that I must have done, or was not doing right. Talk about getting ticked off. That was Monday, this is Wednesday, and still no word. When I call them all I get is, "Sir, we will call you." I don't know if all of this was a deep enbedded problem in the ford that came out with the replacement of other parts(I work on computers, that kind of stuff happens) or if they did something with their pull and plug method of fixing the problem. I can only guess that they pulled and plugged because all of my fuses were loose, a few were in the wrong places, and the modules were all loose too. Anyone else had this problem with their truck, or some words of advice?

konchal

If I were VW or any auto maker, I would pay attention to the comments on these postings. The consumer finally has the power to demand quality. I for one will not buy the Jetta based on the hassle and complaints these postings expose.
If you are a representitive of VW, or any automaker, why don't you accept the challenge of the postings? Email me and guarantee me that VW will not make me suffer as these poor owners have.
Thanks,
konchal@rcn.com

graphixchic

He should get a nice Toyota and I'll quarantee it won't make him suffer.

switchingsoon

Dear Gus:
Can you tell me what to watch for on my '95 Monte Carlo 3.4? I've been told conflicting stories regarding the timing belt breaking. Is there valve interference or not? Also, I am in the market for a quality car battery charger ($40-$90 range). Can you or any of your readers recommend a particular brand or model? Thanks.

mazdalady

I am looking at purchasing a 92 Mazda 929. Are there any quirks about it I should know?

bluehorizon

The Odyssey 1st maintenance is at 7500 miles, however the Salesman said I live in an area that requires maintenance at 3500 miles. This is a mild winter (Albuquerque) and I think I should keep the special oil in till the 7500 mile maintenance. Any comments?

pat455

Someone may chime in here, but have you found the vociferous group over in our Vans conference discussing the Odyssey? If not, you can join in on the latest iteration of the topic at Honda Odyssey XXII. Be sure to look at post 0 in that topic for links to the preceding discussions.

Pat
Maintenance & Repair Conference

bluehorizon

I've read the Odyssey XXII items. The problem is that it is a frozen topic & I can't add items.

bnormann

Try Honda Odyssey XXIII here:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Vans&f=0&t=1148

....it's open for posting.

Thanks,
your new host, Bruce

pat455

oops, sorry bluehorizon. Thanks for getting the right one, Bruce!

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

dchambers1

I have hyundai elantra and I have been having some mechanical problems with it. To begin with, when ever I back out and hit a bump the front wheels make a thumping noise every time. A second problem I am having is when the car sits idoling, it consistantly goes up and down and when it goes down it makes a thumping noise as if the engine wants to shut off. Also when I added fuel injector cleaner the noise stopped but a day later it came right back.

mgattis

I have a 1979 Volkswagon Bug that has been put up all winter. I went to start it and it will not start. I have put new gas in it and tried to prime it. It will start when it is primed but when that is gone it dies. I don't know much about volkswagon Bugs so ANY help would be great.

bnormann

It sounds like a problem with the fuel supply. How many fuel pumps are on this car? Also look at fuel filters...

your host, bruce

sears3

I have a 1999 Chrysler Concorde. It drives like
a dream and handles great.I've noticed that alot
of things are made cheap I have 5438 miles and
the road noise is awful!! You can't even enjoy
the radio. Ive had it back twice but they don't
do anything. All all new cars this way if not
what can i do?

nmh36

I'm toying with the possibility of purchasing a 2000 vw gls Turbocharged bug. I've heard that they have had trouble getting good gas mileage and that there have been maintenance problems of some sort. Can anyone let me know what their experience has been.

I would appreciate any input. thanks, nmh36

pat455

Hi nmh36,

Have you checked over in our Hatchback conference yet? That's probably the best place to find lots of discussion on 2000 VW Beetles. Here is a link to one of the active topics over there: New Beetle News.

There are also several other topics which you can find by keying Beetle into the Topic Search function on the left of the page.

Good luck!

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

njacobson

I have a 1995 Towncar with 80 g's on it. In the last 5 months have have an intermittent problem with not starting after being drivin for 10 miles or so and then parked for half an hour to an hour. Cranks likes crazy but no ignition and no smell of gas like its flooded. Have taken it to a dealer twice and no codes in the computer. They are more than willing to start replacing fuel pumps, ignition modules or other parts. After an hour or all night it starts right up. Just had new plug wires put on(60 gs) and the last tuneup was at 50 gs. Anybody have any ideas?

gooba

Fords are notorious for having their ignition modules go bad. Get a spray bottle with some cool water in it and take your vehicle for a test drive. When the car dies,open the hood and spray the ignition module with the water to cool it down. Go in and start the car.It should start and run until the module heats up again. If it does then buy a new module.

brucek2

The check engine light in my 97 Rodeo has come on three different times. The dealer service dept. said it was most likely the aftermarket gas cap not closing tightly enough.

They also said that there was not a shut-off switch and the light would go out on its own after a half day or so of driving. Naturally the light is still on two days later, and the gas cap seems good and tight.

Anyone out there having the same problem?

0patience

The light will not go out on its own,unless the problem that is causing it is repaired.The dealer that you went to should have accessed the computer with a scanner to find out what the codes were.Since they didn't and gave you a "blanket" answer,then they clearly have no clue what they are doing.If your vehicle is not under warranty,go to an independant shop and ask them for a quote and retrieving the codes.Since your vehicle has the OBD2 system,the codes are only retrievable from a scanner and they can reset the codes while they are retrieving the codes,which the dealer should have done.If you need more help on this,post under check engine light or e-mail me.

zotilraxx

I posted this to an inappropriate topic, so I am reposting it here. sorry about that...

A little about myself, I just started recently doing my own maintenance work on my Dodge Grand caravan (1996 LE) and i am really new to this, so if I slip and say something stupid, please bear with me. Now, on to my post...

Does anybody know how to replace a serpentine Belt
of a Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L V6 engine? The book
says that there is a screw (or nuts)that you could
get to, but when i looked into the engine
compartment, a whole lot of things are jammed
together that i don't know how i could get to that
screw. any ideas?

bnormann

Carlitos,

The book doesn't have a picture? Perhaps you could look in our "Best Repair Manuals" topic and go to your local library to see if they have it.

Bruce

seaboard11

I have recently had my 1989 Toyota SR22 engine's head re-built. Ever since it was put back together, it has "cut out" as if it wasn't getting fuel or something. I have replace everything (fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotter button) but it still cuts out. I have ran 4 tanks of high octane gas with an additive to help clean everything and have even used carb. cleaner to try to prevent it but it still does it. WHY??? Please e-mail me with some ideas.

Thanks

sears3

My 99 Concorde ihas 6058 miles on it. I have had
it back 2 times 4-12-00 the 3 time. They put
new door seals on it and no better. I love my
car but I'm afraid it may not hold up. Is there anything I cad do about the air noise? It is so
bad it sounds like the windows are cracked or not
up all the way it is just the two front doors.
Any input I would appreciate. Thanks y sears

penny07

I just bought a new Tundra 4x4 V-8. At around 2500 miles my oil preasure gauge needle started fluctuating from high to low depending on the rpm. When I took it in they said that it was normal for tundra's. However I've looked at three other trucks. Two Fords and a GMC and the needle may go up or down about the wideth of the needle but not like this. Is anyone else having this problem?

danfmsa

Have just purchased a 96 Suburban 1500 LS with
68,000 miles. About to buy new tires and want to
know what some other owners would recommend.
Thinking about Michelin LT M/S. Will be towing a
small travel trailer (3500lbs) during the summer
months. Any suggestions are appreciated. ALso where can I find the paint code for this vehicle?

pat455

There are quite a few topics about tires in Town Hall. Here is a link to Tires here in the Maintenance and Repair Conference.

If you'd like, you can use the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page to find other Tire topics as well as Suburban topics where someone may be able to help with the paint code.

Good luck,

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

zweistein

With a 7 lbs cap the clogged radiator springs a leak in 70 degree weather. With no cap, merrily I roll along with the temperature gauge at about 160 degrees. What will happen if I leave the cap off in warm weather? It's not worth recoring the radiator on this rustbucket.

startif68

MY FRIEND WANTS TO SELL ME HER 1990 HONDA ACCORD SEDAN LX THAT HAS 135,000 MILES. THIS CAR HAS SOME PROBLEMS I NEED TO KNOW HOW MUCH YOU THINK I SHOULD PAY.
THIS CAR NEEDS THE FOLLOWING:
AN ENGINE MOUNT
IT HAS NO AIRCONDITIONING IT NEEDS TO BE INSTALLED
IT NEEDS A PASSENGER MIRROR
THE TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKS
NEW BRAKES
SHOCKS
RADIO
THE MOTORS THAT GO IN THE DOORS FOR THE WINDOW CONTROL
FUSES FOR THE DEFROSTER AND INSIDE LIGHTS CIGARETTE LIGHTER ETC......
FLOORS FEEL DAMP
THAT IS ALL THAT I CAN THINK OF NOW. BUT I HAVE NEVER PURCHASED A CAR AND REALLY NEED ONE. BUT I DO NOT WANT TO MAKE AND QUICK DECISIONS. I DO NOT WANT A NEW CAR, OR MONTLY PAYMENTS. PLEASE HELP ME AS SOON AS POSSIBLE THANKS.........

HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sears3

Well here i go again about the air noise on my
99 Concorde. The air noise is worst than before,
they changed the door seals. I was riding on the passenger side and it sounded like the door was cracked oped really that bad and they can;t fix it
Bull. The driver side is worst also HELP WHAT CAN
I DO except git rid of it.

spectre3

i think i would shop around.

that car sounds like it will need a lot of money put in it to make it dependable...

have you had it looked at professionally??

unless you are going to get the car for much less than its value because it needs all of those repairs, and the repairs estimate + price paid for the auto doesn't exceed the actual value of the car.

best wishes,

lee

janet23

This is my first ever entry on something like this but I'm trying to decide whether to buy my 1997 Malibu with 38,500 miles or buy a new 2000 Prism. What kind of problems are being encountered with the 1997 Malibu? Thanks much for the help.

sgoldman1

Hey, I'm starting up a small auto repair and supply shop in my town and I was wondering if everybody could post some information on what they look for in a car shop besides great service etc. I really want to be a great asset to car owners in my town and I'm hoping you all can help me.

Thanks,
Steven

lucky20

Honesty! Don't lie to me about need repairs, & don't charge me for your screw-ups.

linjenin

*And*... Have the car ready when you say it is going to be. That is my biggest pet peeve. I've left work early to pick up my car and then ended up sitting in the so-called waiting area for up to an hour! And make the waiting area more comfortable than dirty plastic chairs on linoleum with Highlights magazines from the eighties.

Seriously, you should do some preliminary market research if you are really concerned. There are online survey sites like Zoomerang where you can poll different groups of panelists. Or maybe go around to the local businesses in your area and post flyers requesting feedback.

Good luck.

0patience

They want someone that they can bring their car to,that has the equipment to diagnose their vehicle and tell them what is wrong.They want someone who can give them answers to their questions.Not just tell them what is wrong,but will help explain it to them so that they understand what is wrong and what they can do to prevent it,if anything.They want someone who will take the time to listen to them and really care about them and doing the job right for them.Have the proper diagnostic tools,that is a big key and you do not have to have a $50,000 diagnostic machine,but you do need to have the tools to check ALL of the systems.

If you listen to them,care about doing a good job and be totally honest with them,you won't have to advertise,I don't advertise at all.They know they can come to me for answers or info on maintenance or even doing the job themselves.Doesn't make sense to help someone do a basic repair job themselves?It does if you are them,who do you think they are going to bring the big jobs to?

If you are honest and concientious,you will be having to turn work away,because you will be too busy.Good luck.

bnormann

... the small independent shop that I used to go to for my Honda CRX. They did everything I would expect a dealer to do, only better. Cost was about 80% of dealer, still pretty high, but boy it was worth it for the SERVICE I got.

Bruce

pat455

Well, the small independent place I used to take my Accord to also sounds like what 0patience describes. They have one fault, at least it is a fault to me -- absolutely no assistance in getting me there or back carless (I'm only 2 miles from them) and anything you need done requires you to leave the car for the entire day, no "10:30" or whatever appointment. Even for a simple oil change or state inspection. Have it in by 8, pick it up before 5, make your own transportation arrangements, period.

So I'll just add my suggestion to all of the terrific ones that have been offered so far: do not ever forget the fact that when a person drives a car to you to be worked on, the person needs to either be able to wait comfortably for a not unreasonable period of time, or may need assistance to get somewhere else and then back again!

So far, this independent shop has not even seen my year old TL - my Acura dealer has a fine place to wait and gets me out of there in about an hour. I'm probably paying more for my oil changes, but it has been worth it for now.

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

0patience

I hadn't given that much thought,I'm sorry to say.I'm guilty of the leave it all day,for the fact that I work some vehicles into the schedule.And I never realized the inconvenience or the impact of it.Thank you.I really gave me something to think about.

georgede

Just Picked up my new Subaru Outback Sport on
thursday and already had a small problem. My wife
tried to start the car today and it coughed for a
while until it finally started. The car was parked
on the driveway and it was sunny. Any ideas what
happened???

njt15

It seems clear that synthetic motor oil is superior to regular, as it has fewer additives and withstands a far greater temperature range, but does it last longer? The guys selling cars and parts insist that changing oil every 7,500 miles is sufficient and the folks selling oil, whatever type, insist that every 3,000 miles is appropriate. Who is correct?

pat455

Hello njt15, welcome to Town Hall.

Your question has been discussed in several places here in the Maintenance and Repair Conference. Here are links to a couple of topics that you might like to read through:

Synthetic motor oil (Topic #543) and

Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 (Topic #851)

You might also like to follow the link in the first post of Topic #851 to the archived Part One of that discussion.

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

zotilraxx

I need some advice. I have a 1996 Dodge Grand caravan, 3.3 L. and today i drained the cooling system via the drain plug. When i tried to close the drain plug, it won't close. I don't know if i am not doing it correctly or what. What can I do to fix it?

remohunter

i have a 1994 bronco xlt 5.8L .i now have no horn or cruise control ,my air bag is also flashing code 32 which means needs clockspring.with all these problems coming from the steering wheel could the problem be a slip ring needed for the steering wheel????????

alexs29

I'm in northern California and am looking for a auto detailer that is experienced in putting on Zaino products. I have a new Lexus and would like to use Zaino products on it but I need help. I am unable to do the work myself. Does anyone know a such an expert in this part of the country?