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Comments
I have a 1997 Avalon and the washer pump stopped
working a few weeks ago.
I've looked and looked but cannot find the fuse
(the covers to the three fuse boxes (in the car and
under the hood) have descriptions like "AC" and
"HL" (headlamp?) and "Radio"... but there isn't any
labeled "washer" or "pump" etc.)
In desperation I pulled all of the fuses to look
for any blown fuses. They were all okay.
There is a "float" in the washer-fluid tank that
moves up and down on guides. I thought maybe this
tells the pump not to run if there isn't any fluid.
But the tank is full and the float moves freely.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Good luck, and welcome to Town Hall.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I have 7500 miles on my 2000 Acura 3.2 TL and I
went in for a second service which included oil
change and tire rotation.
Before I went in to the service, the car is
extremely quite while driving. Soon after the
service, I hear my tires rotating sound when I
drive my car ( something like dub, dub, dub... )
I went back to the acura dealer and he says that
the tires have to worn out evenly and the sound
would go away once this has happened. The sound is
not a major problem.
Has this happened to anyone else too ? Appreciate
your response
As one auto writer put it, Saabs don't cost that much to buy at first (heavy depreciation, which should be a clue) but they cost almost as much to repair as an Audi or BMW. Basically a Saab, as the writer went on to say, is a mid teens car to buy but a $30s car to repair.
There is a discussion going on in our Pickups conference about F-150 problems. You can click here to go directly there.
The topic title refers to MY 2000 F-150's, but I'm sure that it is fine to ask about other model years there as well.
Good luck, and again welcome.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
My post topic is this -
A portion of my tranny case tail has been chipped and the black bubble gum type gunk they secretly crammed in there is starting to fail and now I am really starting to leak fluid. I know when they cracked this. It was in '98 when they rebuilt my rear diff. at 35k mind you, and a week later I brought it back complaining of a new leak. My argument was that this new leak (substantial) suddenly occurred right after they did the work on the rear diff. Their argument was that a leak at the tranny had nothing to do with the diff work.
Now tell me if I am right, when rebuilding a rear diff. you have to drop/lower/swing down one end of the driveshaft. If so, then when they dropped the driveshaft it acted like a lever (crowbar)and cracked the bottom of the tranny case tail.
Oh man oh man I know that is what happened!
Now - how do you think I can get the dealer to cover this screwup?
Please post ideas!
Thanks edmunds for being the best! Love the new site - keep up the good work.
When I had the problem diagnosed, the local mitsu dealer says the codes are "embedded" which will cost me several hundred dollars to investigate further.
I have changed the plugs and wires. Now a friend says to change the coil pack and my problems will be solved. I have no idea what this will cost me or how involved this may be. Any ideas?
Any other ideas as to the problem?
Thanks in advance.
Also, I'm wanting to go to Mobile One. Should I flush the engine first? There is a lot of mystery involved with lubricants and additives. One guy will tell you no and another will tell you yes... It gets confusing. I just want to take as good a care as possible as I intend on keeping this car for a long time. Any comments are much appreciated.
Re the switch to synthetic, check out the "Synthetic motor oil" topic. There are as many opinions as colours of Smarties. :-)
I was on my way to the dealer today after I posted that message and noticed that everything was as quiet as a church mouse and was like, man! it's not gonna do it for the dealership. You know how those things go. Then I opened the sunroof and it started up, so I closed it and it went away and so on. Man was I relieved! Thanx again and I'll go check those topics.
Thanks
Why not go to another Hyundai dealer and ask them to check the engine and look for an oil leak if that's the problem? It sounds like you are operating on hearsay and friend's opinions...you need some facts before you can make an intelligent decision regarding your car.
I only have a scrape mark,& it is above the the gas cap.
This mark is aluminum, as I back up into a police box.Can I get this off of my paint? What should I use to do this?
It has a slight impression mark, but the paint was not damaged.
Compared to the latest Buick Lesabre,You want my opinion?
Piece of junk, No steel bumper protection, lousy inside seats, interier back seats seating very uncomfortable,& the Padding is slim. Etc.
My car has ultra luxury, & plush car seats, front & back.
I just read, only the Volva, & Buick Limited have extra long life.
After you rack up 300,000 miles, it still passes the emission, & state inspection test on the engine,which in my opinion is the finest engine Buick ever built!
Of course you have to change the oil,& put in a new oil filter every 6,000 miles.
Besides that, inspect the air filter,& gas filter,if it needs replacing REPLACE IT!
I go to a GM Oldsmobile Shop every time my window inspection sticker expires, & replace what ever needs to be corrected, with a new GM part.
I had after 8 1/2 years my cars computer replaced, & just once, my drums turned down, & new front disc pads replaced plus the back drum brakes.
I pump my brakes, & glide to a stop,slowly, at a red light, & stop signs.
When I am going very fast, say 45 miles a Hour, I anticipate it for 2 blocks before I approach a red light,& take my foot off of the gas pedal,& glide to it, then when I am a half a block from the red light, I then start pumping my brakes.
The average CITY BRAKE life of a big car like mine is 10,000 miles
I will get double that, if I still keep this gem.
The new cars side door bumper guard is no more,& mine is a thick protruding V shape, wide protection guard, for those nuts out there who puts those dings in your car! They always walk away, when you are not there.
My car does have lousy milage, but so do the newer ones, for a big car like mine.
I FEEL SAFE IN MY CAR,as it WAS one of the best safty protection cars on the road!
Ok you Buick owners I had my say,lets hear from you now. JIM
If you notice any sudden increase in consumption over the short term, then I'd have a cylinder leakdown test done, presuming there are no leaks of course. I myself only get "alarmed" when consumption drops below 1,000 miles per quart and continues to drop.....if the engine has high, high miles, then of course heavy consumption could be normal, due to internal wear.
You might check over at the Coupe/Convertible/Sportscar board and post in the various Eclipse topics to find out the amount of labor involved.
Could you please respond to my question? It was my first and I'm still trying to do it right. What does the "mark" button do?
Will be back tonight.
Regards
Adriaan
Bookmarks
If you find a message or discussion helpful, interesting or funny and would like to
"save" it, you may do so by using the MARK feature.
To save a message, click MARK next to the message. To save a discussion,
click MARK under the title of the discussion at the top of the screen. These
action will take you you to your personal Message Center page within Town Hall,
where your marked messages and discussions are saved. Next to the "marked"
message is a small text field where you can put in comments to remind yourself
why the particular message or discussion is important. Clicking "Set" next to the
text field makes the software remember the comment the next time your
Message Center page is displayed.
Mr. Shiftright
Host
Thanks for you answer about the "mark" feature.
Could you please help me with the following? In the trunk of our 1990 Lincoln Town Car there is a contraption to get the antenna up and down. It doesn't anymore. We had this great car since last Nov. and had some repairs but this antenna baffles me. There is a clear plastic box, smaller than a pack of cigarettes, with electronics inside. Now I'm told this will be $175 Can. The world thinks Lincoln=$$$$. Thus it is no surprise that the wiring was changed so the antenna is always up when the ignition is on. This is no good going through a car-wash. I have the radio out to see if there is a connection that is live only when the radio is turned on but cannot find any.
Could you please tell me how and where to connect things or even how to run a wire to a switch on the dash (the way it used to be in earlier models?) to work things from there.
Thank you for your help
Adriaan
Toronto
You know, you could always just have a stereo shop install a plain antenna that you push up and down by hand when you go to a car wash, like they've been doing for the 60 years prior to your car's manufacture.
Any others with this problem so soon and have you had them re coated? From your experience, who manufactures the best quality wheels? I've had alloy wheels on two of my previous cars and nothing like this happened until after 5 or 6 years.
Is this a good deal?
Has this paid off for anyone?
I have 30 days to get my money back if I decide I don't want it.
I'm worried that the fine print has a lot of subjective language that could allow Toyota to back out of covering.
By reading the exclusions, and comparing them to more expensive or inclusive policies, you get an idea what your plan is "worth". Nobody can tell you what your plan is worth unless we know the exclusions, because the value is built around the exclusions.
As a side note, the driver who caused my accident is uninsured, so my insurance is footing the bill minus my collision deductible. And my insurance is not sending their own adjustor; they authorized the dealership to do their own assessment and estimate and then just go ahead and do the repairs. Is it just my paranoia, or does something about that sound fishy? Anything I should watch out for?
Also, is there anywhere you can get crash test data for rear impacts? I have searched through numerous sites that contain crash test data, but they only show frontal and side impact crashes. Does anyone even do rear impact crash tests? Should this information be available from the manufacturer?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ms.Sarah
thanx in advance
Go for the simplest fixes first...they are the quickest and easiest. Stay out of the computer stuff until you've run out of simple ideas. And don't get advice from ten people, you'll just get confused. Do what you can yourself, keep a record of what you've done, and then enlist the aid of one good shop and work with them. A good shop does not throw parts at a car until it is fixed. They diagnose it and take their time.
It's in a 1995 Lexus ES300.
Help?
Luanne