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Transmission Traumas?

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Comments

  • wendigowendigo Member Posts: 4
    i own a 89 Olds Cutlass Ciera Cruiser with the 3,3 liters
    V6 and 4 spds tranny (110k mile):

    1- Sometimes, when i engage R or D position from
    park, the tranny does not engage. Just have to put
    the shift lever to N position and put it back on R
    or D and it will work like a new.

    2-Oil smells burns and the color is dark


    The tranny was serviced two weeks ago, and except
    those probs, the tranny works great on any gear,
    no shaking on shifting, no noise, no vibration.
    I suspect a seal leak. Should i repair just the seals? Is it difficult to replace? Shold i do replace the tranny by a rebuilt one?

    Wendigo
  • deneen1deneen1 Member Posts: 2
    help. can anyone out there tell me if they have had problems with their transmission on their j30. i have a 93 infiniti and my trans. has just went up. i have taken it to three different places and everyone says to take it back to the dealer. If anyone out there knows how much this will cost please tell me. also has anyone had trouble with the sunroof.
  • dbs2001dbs2001 Member Posts: 46
    I have a 97 j30. No tranny problems but sunroof is giving me problems. Also blowing fuses on interior lights.
  • rsindaghattarsindaghatta Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 91 Nissan Sentra (auto). I use this mostly to drive around the city.rarely use it on highways...
    I've recently noticed that the auto trans. shifts quite hard from 1 - 2 (the jerk is quite noticeable). On other higher gears this is not the case.
    Another thing is that while climbing uphill from low speeds (starting at say 5 mph), when I get past 40 mph looks like tries to shift to 4 but can't and I can feel the vehicle hesitate.
    What can be the cause of the above 2 problems.

    thanks
    RRS
  • ojc508ojc508 Member Posts: 1
    Hey does anyone know of ES300s having any problems with the transmissions? I am looking to buy a 96 with 87,000 miles on it but heard that the transmissions pop at 115K or so. Anyone have any info on the tranny? Thanks.
  • wlearywleary Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 SSEi with 158K miles, that for the past 10-15K miles gets locked in drive after 20-30 minutes of hard driving where the trans is shifting in and out of overdrive. The only way to get it back into overdrive is to turn the ignition off and on. Works fine if I manually shift or drive fast enough that the trans is not shifting in and out of overdrive. Dealers and performance shops say there isn't a problem. Please help if you have a solution to this problem.
    For all those shuddering problems that seem to be trans related, change plugs, wires and coil packs. I've done it and it works. Thanks for your help.
  • solara11solara11 Member Posts: 78
    My 2000 Toyota Solara seems to be downshifting slow, usually from 2nd to 1st, coming to a complete stop, you feel it shiftng, unlike the norm for this car. This is intermittent and have not taken to the dealer yet to see if their is something they can do. Does anyone have any idea what may cause this, and are automatic transmitions easily adjusted, or is it a laborious process???
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    RE4RO1A is the transmission same as 90-95 non turbo 300zx. Typical poorly maintained units fail between 70-100,000 miles. The most reliable fix is a partially remaned Nissan unit the dealers pay around $1400 plus $500 core charge with the parts markup and exchange labor expectt to pay around $3,000....you will get a 12/12 warranty.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    Would anyone here know where I could purchase a drain plug kit for my transmission pan?
  • walt66walt66 Member Posts: 9
    I bought a 1997 Buick PA with 11,000+ miles in Nov '98. It now has 64,000+. I have replaced the alternator, fan belt, and water pump in three different shops (non-dealer) within the last 3 months.
    fan belt and water pump went out separately so engine motor mounts were removed and shops raised engine or lowered body each time to gain access to replace them. The last was the water pump and on the same day left town on a trip. Within only a few miles a noise began from the engine area sounding like a hollow wind rush with tappet noise
    when I accelerated.
    Checking while stopped, there is a noise from the transmission side of the engine (3.8 ltr 6 cyl) that sounds like a very bad tappet rattle from the lower part of the transmission and now a few drops of what looks like trans fluid beneath the trans side of the engine. I am on a 100 mi , 1 week trip and the noise continues to be audible.

    The trans has been erratic on rough clunking when changing gears and then sometimes vy smooth. The erratic shifting had been noticeable for approx a year or the last 20,000 miles.
  • walt66walt66 Member Posts: 9
    Paid $100 for 3 hour diagnostic checkup on the noise. They performed road check, hooked the computer check but no codes appeared to show any irregularity, removed pan which showed only normal black residue of clutch wear (?), no significant metal debris. Removed RF wheel and hub to access
    and remove the axle, and final drive (?). All in excellent condition. After reassembly, extensive road tests do show vy rough shifting and continued
    noise. Conclusion: transmission bad. Rebuild of trans to include "kit" to correct some kind of a flaw in the 97 GM trans. Firm price to correct all problems and provide smooth normal shifting = $1450 less the $100 if repair is done in the same shop. Along with the vy long list of other repairs on this Park Avenue in it's 64,000 mile history, I understand why Buick no longer uses the slogan "When Better Automobiles Are Built, Buick Will Build Them."
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Sorry I can't address the transmission problem but your water pump and serpentine belt situation is suspicious. Unless the design has been changed significantly in the past few model years, there's no need to remove motor mounts to replace a water pump on the 3.8 Buick. If the serpentine belt idler was clearly defective, your belt failure is explained. However, if the old idler seemed to be OK, you likely have a problem with the PS pump or compressor. These items can cause extreme overloading of the belt and odd noises so perhaps further checks are in order here. Good luck.
  • walt66walt66 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the feedback. The frayed worn part of the belt was on the slick side which is used only by the tensioner and water pump. The compressor, alt, and PS pump I believe all use the grooved side of the belt which showed no obvious wear. I should know for sure in a couple hundred miles as it should show fraying and wear if it is one of those. The tranny's erratic very rough shifting through the gears is reason enough to open it up
    so may as well do the rebuild.
  • lefttyleftty Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Elantra which I must say I love to drive with one exception, the 5 speed. The car has very low miles on it and I know I should have thought it out more when getting the 5 speed but can anyone tell me if it is possible to get an Auto put in it. I know it will cost me but being that I like the car and intend on keeping it for a while it would be worth it. Thanks, Joe
  • sweetsam1sweetsam1 Member Posts: 1
    We're considering purchasing a 2001 E320 MB 4matic sedan. A neighbor made a comment that he heard that the 2000 E320's may have had some transmission problems. I have talked with MB dealer who advises there is no foundation to this.
    Can anyone comment about this? Tks.
  • snipesnipe Member Posts: 5
    Consumer Alert: Automatic Transmission Secret Have you ever wondered how all of a sudden in 1997 GM started advertising 100,000-Mile (Fill-for-Life) service intervals for their automatic transmissions? They got tired of paying out warranty claims on premature automatic transmission failures. The fix and cure SYNTHETIC A T F which btw has been available in the US since 1980. WHY do you think every Jet Fighter Engine in The World use Synthetic Lubricants Exclusively?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    They use syn. in jet engines because nothing else works with the temps. & rpm of a jet.Next time i buy a jet i will use syn. until then its petrol based oils.
    The 100K GM trans.has Dexron 111, i know i own one an the manual reads service with Dexron 111.They just make a good trans. for the money.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    GM trans fluid change interval has been 100,000 miles for normal service for as long as I can remember. As for the rationale for deleting the dipstick, read post # 498 in this topic.

    Trans drain plugs were eliminated by GM in 1970, as a potential leakage point. Since the pan has to be removed anyway to replace the filter, a drain plug is a moot point.

    A properly applied bead of RTV sealer provides a more positive seal than a gasket, which may be overtightened leading to gasket cracking and oil pan flange deformation.
  • enetheneth Member Posts: 285
    Ironically enough, though it was not a GM, but a Chrysler unit, the only transaxle I've ever had develop a leak was in my Dodge - the one _without_ the drain plug, and _with_ the RTV gasket.

    My two Toyotas and Subaru have conventional gaskets and plugs, and have never leaked a drop of fluid.

    I still maintain that a 100,000 mile fluid-change interval is fantasy - though considering the lifespan of the rest of the average GM-built car, may not matter much.
  • tinindianatinindiana Member Posts: 46
    when you have to replace domestics parts MANY times more than that of the Japanese cars, the Fords and GM cars end up costing too much and time spent in shops, etc. is a hassle - just not worth it but as long as people buy there garbage they have no reason to improve quality. period.
  • nevermind_incnevermind_inc Member Posts: 1
    My 88 Chevy Blazer makes a noise (like a metal ball rolling in a tin can) somewere in the transmission / transaxle area when shifted into park after driving. Anybody an idea what that could be, should I worry about it or just wait and then get a rebuilt?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Possibly a muffler falling apart inside?
  • enetheneth Member Posts: 285
    Check the heat shield over the catalytic converter before you dig any further.
  • 311321311321 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 1997 Chevrolet Lumina from a G.M. dealer in Florida. The vehicle had 56,000 miles on it .I also purchased a 24,000 mile two year warranty.My problem is that when the automatic transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd it goes in very hard especially at low speeds. The service people told me I had what they called a smart transmission and it would adjust by itself and this problem would go away. Is this true???
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Read your manual. It sounds like you have a computer that adjusts to the way you drive. I have no idea if this particular car does have this setup, so I'd verify it with the manual.
  • jahdncjahdnc Member Posts: 1
    I have 85K miles, 3.1L Malibu LS. On cold starts in either drive or reverse, the car makes a noise, seems like it won't go into gear and drags along until it warms up. Before I authorize a tear down, does this sound like trans to you. It doesnot stall out, it kind of just chugs along. At first it felt like I was in neutral. Please help
    Judi
  • jjackson43jjackson43 Member Posts: 27
    I have a 1987 Ford T-bird w/a 3.8 V6 Automatic. The transmission has been regularily been serviced, and shifts fine. The concern/question is that when it is cold (before the vehicle warms up) it "jerks" when I lift off the accellerator. I don't know if this vehicle has a "torque converter lockup switch" or not, or if there is something else I might check to try and determine what might be causing the "jerking" when cold. The engine runs fine during this time.

    Thanks, John
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Jahdnc, there is no way for me to really know what is wrong. But that symptom could result from it running rich. If you feather the gas, and slowly push down hard, does it all of a sudden move out fast?
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    Ok, maybe I screwed up here...
    I just got done reading how bad Fram oil filters are and the like, but was curious how bad their tranny filters are. I only ask this because that was all the local autoparts store sold when I serviced my tranny last month. So how bad are the tranny filters from Fram??? If they are bad, what are the recommended brands for tranny filters?
    I have a 1997 Chevy K1500, 5.7l, auto, 4x4, extended cab pickumup.
    Thanks
    Bob
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    How can a trans. filter be bad new,its a plastic housing with a screen,simple or what.I,m wondering where the stories about Fram filters came from,all the parts stores in my area shelves are loaded with them they stock almost nothing else.In my short time on the web I found out to not believe every thing thats posted,some people have their own agenda.
  • larae52larae52 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1992 hyundai excel i have put 3 transmission in this car in the last five years can some one tell me if they know if their was a recall on that year car or is it just the people is not doing them right i love the car but the transmission is getting a bit to much, before i had a warrenity, but now i am on my own with buying another transmission, or does anyone know of a good person or place i should talk to on this matter if so please e-mail me at larae52@yahoo.com
    thank you laray
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    I had the same question, how can a Fram oil filter be bad new?? But looking at actual photos I lost confidence in them. Just to show you where I am coming from on the oil filter study, here is the link:
    http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
    By the way this is not the first person to study different oil filters and find that Frams are less than quality items, this is the only link I had on my work computer.
    All I want to know is whether their tranny filters are good or bad or what is the prefered tranny filter brand that people use...maybe you should spend a little more time on the web and check out the oil filters topic (#811) before you judge my "agenda".
    Bob
  • jjackson43jjackson43 Member Posts: 27
    I have used FRAM transmission filters for years in all of my GM vehicles, and have never had a transmission problem. I have visually compared the Fram to the Pureolator tranny filter, and I stayed w/the Fram. I have 125K miles on my 89 Chevy G20 5.7 Lt van and pull an 8,000 pound travel trailer all over the country, and its never been worked on, but I change the oil/filter about every 15 - 20 K miles.

    PS: I prefer PureOne or Amsoil motor oil filters

    John
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Thanks for the web site,sorry I was not referring to your agenda.I noticed no one took credit for the information,but they would tell you what filters to buy instead you making up your own mind.I can read an also think an make up my own mind,they definitely have an agenda.Thanks again.
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    jjackson43- Thanks for the info, it is reassuring as I just got the truck in Feb and wanted to make sure I didn't just give myself a shot in the foot trying to take care of it! I was thinking about changing the tranny fluid and filter every 15K as I tow a 3k boat in the summer up in the mountains of Colorado, apparently I have the right idea!

    joe3891- No worries.... sorry for misreading your post on the agenda thing...good point on the filter study, but it definitely opened my eyes up a bit :-).

    Bob
  • rasjrasj Member Posts: 1
    At 15K my T-Case/and/or trans started making noise. I had the vehicle serviced serviced twice to resolve the problem. No luck. At 19K I decided to do my own maintenance. I now routinely change all transfer fluids including the T-Case at 15K intervals. I have had the transmission "Power Flushed" instead of the standard drop and drain routine. I prefer to use Penzoil products in replacing the fluids. I refuse to use the lubricants from the dealers. I also use a lubricant additative from "BG" Products for the transmission which I also add to the transfer case as well........NO NOISE!!

    On a similar note I had problem with my 2000 Chevy Tracker which would not go In/Out of 4WDR while moving. It was not a mechanical problem ...the transfer case fluid was recalled. When the fluid was replaced the problem went away.

    Bob
  • vandeanovandeano Member Posts: 27
    97 Suburban Transmission. Burdawg, it was just like you said, the modual went out in which caused my torqe converter to go with it.

    $1800.00 plus to repair at a GMC Dealer. Im glad I purchased Warranty Gold Extended Warranty. They covered it all, except my $50 ded.
  • upsetterupsetter Member Posts: 5
    Hi, I have 120K miles on '94 3.0L Ford Taurus. Just bought it half a year ago with leaking AXOD trans. So a rebuilted it a few monthes ago for $1800. Well now I have this problem: last week it start shifting harshly from 2nd to 3rd speed (at 15mph), but otherwise okay. And also some hard engagement (jerk) from park or neutr. to R or D. And some noise appeared at park, neutral, stop at drive.

    I cured the problem this way - turned battery off for couple of hours (kind of reset for computer and also means clearing some wrongly set variables. After that trans was working like a new. Just want to know what can cause before mentioned problem (wrong variables in computer memory)? It is not too handy to reset computer every week. Car is under warranty but I have no time for visiting shop too.
  • alcannalcann Member Posts: 9
    What year is the Grand Caravan, and which seal are you referring to as the "output seal"?
  • danmcddanmcd Member Posts: 1
    The Gr Caravan from my post yesterday is a 1992 with 3.3 lt. The output seal may be called an axle seal. Either way, I never opened the transaxle, and it was rebuilt 40k ago. If you know an easier way to figure which of the may electrical connections may be inoperable
  • vandeanovandeano Member Posts: 27
    I heard they had a TSB on 1999 Suburbans and full size trucks that they where supposed to have the opitional Auxillary Transmission Oil Cooler but the factor never installed them.

    My problem is that I have a 97 Suburban with option code KNP (Auxillary Transmission Oil Cooler) and this option is not on my truck, meaning I paid for it and it is also posted on inside glove box with all other option codes. But there is no Trany oil cooler installed.
    WHATS UP WITH THAT?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    First, check the 8 pin connector to the solenoid pack for bent, loose, or pushed back pins. Also, make sure you haven't reversed the connectors for the input and output speed sensors. If my memory serves me, they have the same connector end on each harness and they can be reversed. Will set a speed ratio error. Does the speedo work? If so, the vehicle speed sensor connector is installed properly. The only other connectors are for the Park-neutral, and gear state switches.
  • upsetterupsetter Member Posts: 5
    You will get way more than 120,000 miles from your Vulcan engine. Mine has around 120,000 miles and runs great. It doesn't even eat much oil. In summer time I add only 1 litre between usual 3K oil change and add nothing in winter. My experience with Toyota 4 banger with about the same milage was worse. My friend has 150,000 on his '92 Tempo 3.0L and had no problems since he bought it when it had only 20K+, except one radiator hose change and one of power windows failure . He want to run it to death for 2-3 years more and then get it rid for $1,000 (in California for 10+ years old cars you can get $1,000 ). My coworker also has '94 Taurus 3.0L and didn't have any serious problems since he bought it new, even with transmission. It He also is going to drive it until it get 10 years old.
  • behappy1behappy1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have 92 Mazda MPV, 6cyl, 2WD, w/ original
    engine and auto transmission, and have 167,500 miles on it.
    Question is: I have found the gear indicator on
    a dash does not match with actual gear, "L" range
    in particular. I think transmission works fine,
    and the other gears (P,R,D,N,S) match perfectly
    with the indicator. Is this a bad sign?

    Thank you in advance.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Probably not; more likely, whatever connects the dashboard indicator to the actual shift lever on the transmission is misaligned or otherwise messed up. (Last Mazda I bought didn't even have such a thing; if I can't tell what shift position I'm in just from the noise level, I have to look at the shifter.) If it bugs you, have the dealer look at it, but I doubt it's a sign of impending doom or anything.
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    My Aunt lend me her 1997 Geo Prizm for about 2 weeks while my car was in the shop. While driving the Prizm, I heard a whining noise while driving on the highway. I had the Chevrolet dealer take a look at the problem since it was still covered by the extended warranty. The dealer had to take the transmission apart and replace several bearings.

    Now Geo Prizm tend to be fairly bullet-proof cars and the car only had 35,000 miles on it. My Aunt is not an agressive driver. Besides, there's not much you can do to the AT to damage it. You're not doing anything most of the time.

    What could have cause the problem? Factory defect?

    Paul
  • upsetterupsetter Member Posts: 5
    So far I had found that it wasn't computer memory glitch (metioned in post #540). It looks as if some capacitor was charging very slowly several days and then bang - tranny had some problem with turning on clutch - so zumming and hard shifting up to 3rd speed. When I detached batery - capacitor slowly discharged and tranny behaved like new for few days.

    After realizing it I tried last time to switch on everything that can comsume electric current in the car while battery was off to discharge this misteriuos capacitor. And it worked! So no problems since then. Don't have any idea what it might be, don't even know how this clutch works.
  • maasymaasy Member Posts: 1
    When 89 buick regal ltd is shifting into overdrive at about 60 mph. rpms should drop from 2900 to 1900, but instead rpms will float between 2000 and 2600 with no increase in speed. This shift is very smooth, and will engage into OD on long level runs but begin to float again when descending down a hill. Also ATF fluid has bubbles on the dipstick even 2 miles after I had it flushed. Any ideas and would it cheaper to repair or replace (used)?
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I have a 92 Corsica V6Auto transmission. I had the oil/filter changed in the transmission. Dealer said everything looked good. Car has 125K. This is third time I have changed filter/oil. I backed it up a very steep driveway and when I used heavy gas pedal the thing sounded like an after burner kicked in. Is this a normal characteristic sound for this trans?? I had the car for 25,000 miles and gave it to my daughter. I don't recall the noise when I owned it and I don't ever recall backing up as steep a hill as this. It operates perfectly in ever other way.
    Any thoughts???

    Thanks
    Al
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