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What a Wonderful Feeling to Own a vehicle that will have Transmission
failure , Head Gasket Failure and to many more problems to list . Not like U
can keep your fingers crossed or go in the closet and say it won't happen to
my wonderful Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth vehicle :O))))))))
Keep wishing and Hoping cause Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth has your
money and they are investing it in other money making ventures instead of
investing it to repair your problem which they Manufactured for U. While U
have to make $300.00 + payments per month and come up with another $2000.00
to $3000.00 in repairs Yea, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth such a
wonderful Product...
Oh I almost forgot the Priceless Wonder of owning a Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep,
Plymouth Yea, this is Great Your Family and Loved Ones they may get Caught
in a Fuel Tank Fire due to a faulty Fuel Filler Grounding Strap or maybe
just Pop out the Back Door of your wonderful Family Mini Van. Chrysler,
Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth Oh Yea Definitely get life insurance for all your
Loves ones riding in your New And Wonderful Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth
vehicle.
So yes Go out and tell all your friends How Wonderful a vehicle Chrysler,
Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth really is Oh yea and here is the Sad part of this
whole Story.
U know Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth dealers they won't give U anything
for a Trade in they already know what U just found out that they are the
Worst Vehicles ever Engineered But hey what's Losing a few Thousands of
Dollars on repairs or at Trade In Time? U own a Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep,
Plymouth vehicle and are proud and honored to give Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep,
Plymouth more of your easy earned money to pay for there mistakes :O))))))))
Even Better what could be better then Losing your Loved Ones Yea, That's Why
Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth they are Wonderful and Priceless :O(
Enjoy the ride who knows when U may find yourself on the side of the road or
Worse in a Hospital Hoping and Praying your Loved Ones will recover :O(
I need some help.
the od stoped working at the same time as the tv cable came off. I reattached the cable with a new bushing but didn't adjust anything. now when it shifts into od it acts like its in netural and the
rpm's go up . The trans works great in drive. It just seems odd that both things would happen at the same time witout being related. Is there something I can try or adj and is this a common
problem with ford aod
thank you
1- driveability - automatically delays upshifts and provides part/full throttle downshifts relative to engine load, to prevent engine lugging
2- transmission durability and service life - automatically raises trans oil pressure as engine load on the trans increases (throttle opens). Idle line pressure in forward ranges is 55-75 psi, automatically increasing to 190-210 psi @ wide open throttle.
With the tv cable disconnected the trans assumes closed throttle, giving no delay on shifts (shifts are early and stacked), AND no increase in line pressure from the closed throttle value of 55-75 psi.
If it's any consolation, most of the AOD transmissions I rebuild are due to the tv cable bushing breaking and allowing the cable to disconnect from the throttle body linkage.
I have 1994 Olds with overdrive transmission. Actually the car belongs to a friend of mine who can't afford to pay mechanic's wages so he is relying upon me. I don't know the car well except from a test drive. I notice shudder upon decleration ~ 12-15 mph (about where the trans shifts from second to first gear. In first gear, it works fine. In 2,3 and OD is where the shudder is evident. The car accelerates albeit slowly. The fluid is red. Since the car was given to him, he has no records of the last engine or transmission tune-up. I don't know if the trans was rebuild. The engine was slightly rough at cold idle but runs fine once warmed. I was going to do a trans tune-up but am open to suggestions...
To aggravate matters, the transmission shop was quoted $250 for the part from Ford. They went to Nissan (this is, after all, a Quest powertrain) and Nissan's price was $90.
None of this episode makes Ford look particularly good.
My dear old Camry (170K miles) suffered an injury coming over a big steel plate in the road. A hole was punched in the transmission pan, and the pan needs replacement and of course new fluid.
What actually happened is that after the bump, the car was running with odd sounds, like roaring and grinding in the engine. It managed to go 12 highway miles (at 60 mph) back to the airport, and restart after a one minute park. It sounded as though it was not finding the right gear as we accelerated awkwardly back onto the highway, and it was gunning and slowing down. We had to pull over and stop. After the engine was off for a few minutes, it started up fine, but wouldn't move out of park. That is, the gear shift would move the pressing the accelerator did nothing in any gear besides gun the motor. The garage has just called to tell me they will replace the pan and fluid for 200$, and then see what happens.
Here's my dilemma: with such an old but pretty reliable car (head gasket leak, kicky transmission, but never breakdowns), is it worth it to spend 200$ on a repair that may not be all that's needed? We were probably going to get rid of the car in the next 8 months anyway, but if anyone here thinks the pan and fluid are all that are needed, then we are willing to go ahead and repair. The garage did not hazard a guess as to odds that the transmission will not need to be rebuilt or replaced.
Thank you,
Juliette94
Juliette94
Would somebody, please, tell Me if that is alright to drive with power-steering reservoir filled (for whatever reason, I do not know) with transmission(?) fluid (it is having red color) instead of pwr-steering fluid. Should I drain it away and fill up with a standard PS fluid, or there is no harm in using and mixing this two types of fluids?
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Some cars use P/S fluid, some ATF, some can use either, some cannot use either.
There is no single ATF or single P/S fluid that is compatible with all systems, that I can tell you.
So you really have to read the directions in this case....if you accidentally mix the fluids in small amounts, I really don't think this is going to hurt anything, but by all means READ THE BOOK!.
Similarly, holding the car with the clutch on a hill will cause wear, and downshifting to slow down the car (rather than using the brakes) will cause more clutch wear. Also, "riding" the clutch by resting your foot on it lightly while driving will cause wear as well.
My $.02. Good luck.
We had to wait a few days but we eventually had it towed to a local mechanic who told us the transmission casing had broken apart, which shocked us as the car only had 48,000 miles on it. It turns out the center pin which holds the differential together worked its way loose and the rattling caused the casing to blow apart (we found out this would cost a minimum of $1900 to replace with a remanufactured transmission). On the way home we found two pieces of the transmission on the side of the road.
The manager of the customer service center at our dealer's told me to call Daimler customer service because the car wasn't covered under warranty and he said that he couldn't guarantee anything but that they should be able to help me. After explaining everything to the woman at customer service and after telling her that I hadn't had a prior transmission problem and that the warranty had run out, she said that for both of those reasons they wouldn't be able to assist me in the matter. I asked her if it was common for the pins to come loose and the transmissions to blow apart because if it wasn't normal wear and tear, something was obviously defective and it should be fixed by them and if it was normal I should've been told this when purchasing the car (a great selling point for the extended warranty!). Her response was that the warranty had expired and they wouldn't help. I asked to speak to a supervisor and she said that she was in the position to make the decision and the supervisor would agree with her so I couldn't talk to anyone else.
My sister immediately called the manager of the service center back and he asked us to bring the car in to have the rep who comes by every month to take a look at it. They called a few days later and said that they would replace the transmission (remanufactured) for $300 plus tax, which I assume was the cost of labor. We were a bit surprised that they agreed to fix it so fast, particularly after the customer service call, and I'd just like to know if anyone else has had a similar problem.
Thanks in advance!
clkm
There was a tag on the shifter indicating the procedure to engage reverse that goes as follows:
* Have the transmission in neutral.
* Release the clutch in neutral.
* Depress it again, and while holding it down...
* Shift into reverse.
* Proceed with backing up.
However, when I follow this procedure, the reverse gear grinds if I shift too quickly (in under 5 seconds) from the neutral position. It acts as if there are no synchromesh gears on the reverse, and you have to wait for the clutch/input shaft assembly to "spin down" to a stop before you can engage reverse. Is this normal?
If I need to quickly get to reverse, I have to "borrow" the synchro in first gear (to stop the input shaft) by using this procedure:
* Have the transmission in neutral.
* Release the clutch in neutral.
* Depress it again, and while holding it down...
* Shift into first (allowing the 1st gear synchro to stop the input shaft)
* Still holding the clutch, shift immediately into reverse.
* Proceed with backing up.
I know of many other cars with a manual that do not have this problem. And, I know that if this was a problem it would have been part of the procedure; since they made a point of it. I had practiced in my mother's 1991 Geo Metro, and it does not seem to have this problem. And my friend's 2000 Hyundai Elantra didn't have a problem either.
Thanks for any information that you can provide.
Regards,
Robert
Al
It's replacement, the 4T65-E, appeared in 1997 (I think) with supercharged 3800 engines. Some 3100's and naturally aspirated 3800's retained the 4T60-E through 1998, so there could be a 2 year span with either transaxle depending on engine torque. The 4T65-E controls are as follows:
Control Systems:
Shift Pattern: (2) Two-way on/off solenoids
Shift Quality: Force motor control
Torque Converter Clutch: Pulse width modulated solenoid control
So if it looks like a 4T60-E but has no modulator, it's a 4T65-E or 4T80-E (essentially the old THM400 modified for fwd and with an overdrive gearset). Because many posters here don't bother to include year, model, or engine, responses can sometimes be an educated guess. Sorry for any confusion it may have caused.
Btw, here's the specs for your transaxle:
4T40-E Transaxle (MN4)
Transaxle -- Model Year 2000
PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS
Type:
Four speed front-wheel-drive, electronically controlled, automatic overdrive transaxle with electronically controlled torque converter clutch
Engine Range:
1.5L - 3.1L
Maximum Engine Torque:
200 lb-ft (271 Nm)
Maximum Gearbox Torque:
325 lb-ft (440 Nm)
Gear Ratios:
1st 2nd 3rd 4th Rev
2.957 1.623 1.000 0.683 2.143
Maximum Speed Shift:
6500 rpm
Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight:
4100 lb (1860 kg)
7-Position Quadrant:
P,R,N,OD,3,2,1
Transfer Design:
2-Axis design, link chain assembly
Case Material:
Die Cast Aluminum
Control Systems:
Shift Pattern: (2) Two-way on/off solenoids
Shift Quality: Variable Bleed Solenoids
Torque Converter Clutch: Pulse width modulated solenoid control Converter Size:
245 mm (reference) (Diameter of torque converter turbine)
Fluid Type:
Dexron® III
Transaxle Weight:
Dry: 74.7 kg (164 lb.)
Wet: 85.0 kg (187 lb.)
Fluid Capacity (Approximate):
Bottom Pan Removal: 7.0L (7.4 qt)
Complete Overhaul: 10.0L (10.6 qt)
Dry: 12.5L (13.2 qt)
Pressure Taps Available:
Line pressure
Manufactured:
Windsor, Ontario
APPLICATIONS:
- Chevrolet Cavalier
- Chevrolet Malibu
- Pontiac Sunfire
- Pontiac Grand Am
- Oldsmobile Alero
- Oldsmobile Cutlass
- Saturn LS
1999 Chevrolet Lumina LTZ sedan
3.8 L V6 engine
3800 series II
4 spd electronic transmission
I am a newbe at posting etc. (first time). I am very surprised at the amount of information and different options available when discussing a transmission problem.
The problem that caused me ask the question orig. (hard shift) has not occurred since I posted the question.
Thanks.
When I dropped the pan, the magnet was grey from all the tiny metal fragments. Anyway, no large metal pieces, just a lot of grey built up on the magnet all over it. I serviced my tranny soon after I bought the truck at 50k and expected to see a lot of the grey metal shaving crud on it as I suspected it hadn't been serviced since new. Anyway just wanted to know if the build up on the magnet is excessive for 15k miles.
The truck is a 1997 Chevy Silverado 5.7l 4x4 with the 4L60E tranny.
Thanks
Bob
Thanks again
Bob
Thanks.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer. I appreciate it.
Al
ill appreciate any feedback..thx
1. The type of car.....some conversions are basically bolt-ins, and some are incredibly difficult
2. The size of your wallet....even a bolt-in job is not cheap....on a Saab Turbo, which required NO welding, no fabrication.....just buying the necessary pedals, linkages, rebuilt standard tranny, clutch, etc + labor was close to $3,500. So this would be about as cheap as you could expect if you paid someone to do it.
You could save money in a number of ways...a used transmission, and doing the labor yourself. Also, you could sell your used transmission if it were in good order. However, unless you really knew what you were doing, or had spoken in detail to someone who actually did the job, I sure wouldn't go that route. I wouldn't even hire someone who hadn't done about a half dozen of them and had a good grip on costs and procedures.
I have no idea how difficult all this would be to do on a golf. I also don't know if it's really worth it on your VW. On the Saab, it is worth it because an automatic just kills the turbo performance and besides, Saab automatics were doomed to premature failure at that time. So I had two good reasons.
P.S. I have also had to pay 3 deductables ($100 a pop) and 2 diagnosis charges ($70 a pop).
My question is are the machines or equipment becoming common? Or am I being told he has one and the stuff in my torque converter will remain and I get 1/2 changed?
Ford manual requires fluid changes every 30k. I figure this is cheap insurance and should (hopefully) keep the tarns working right for a long time.
Thanks for any feedback!
Also meant trans - not tarns. Sorry.
Got to admit that I'm generally distrustful of mechanics. I've gotten too much bad advice from some of them over the years. Just last year had one tell me that you shouldn't run synthetic oil after using conventional; it will leak out!
Al
Later
Al
I have an unusual problem with my '99 Acura CL (31,000 miles) with a 5 speed transmission and am hoping for help. The car runs fine but when I shift in either 1st or 2nd gear I am getting a soft but definite popping or clunk sound from letting in or out the clutch to engage the gears or disengage them. It either does not occur in the other gears or I just don't notice the sound. The clutch makes no sound when you depress the pedal while the car is stationary, just when the vehicle is in motion and you are changing gears. The clutch does not slip and there is no noise once the clutch has engaged the gears. I have not noticed the sound when shifting in reverse.
I have taken the car to the dealer and they explained that the popping noise comes from the mating of the clutch plate to the gears (or whatever the part of the clutch does the actually connecting part). Although they did put in a new shift linkage kit which did not help. The dealer said the poppong sound is normal for the car and in fact one of the service people at the dealer has a manual Acura that does the same thing. Basically I was told not to worry about the the noise.
My question(s) is this: Was the dealer giving me a line of B.S. to get out of not performing warranty work? And if so, will this noise eventually cause other problems? The noise has not gotton worse and I have noticed that when the weather gets warm the noise almost, but not quite, goes away.
Thanks in advance.
when CTP coasting to a stop (braking lightly), I can hear the gear shift into 1st gear with a clunk in the 3-0 mph speed range. Is this normal?
Rep and dealer calls it normal characteristic of the tranny. Is it B/S or reality?
BTW, had the tranny diagnostics also done. reported normal by the dealer.