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Transmission Traumas?

191012141548

Comments

  • chrydodjeep1chrydodjeep1 Member Posts: 13
    Yea, Owners and Wanna Be owners of Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth vehicles.
    What a Wonderful Feeling to Own a vehicle that will have Transmission
    failure , Head Gasket Failure and to many more problems to list . Not like U
    can keep your fingers crossed or go in the closet and say it won't happen to
    my wonderful Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth vehicle :O))))))))

    Keep wishing and Hoping cause Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth has your
    money and they are investing it in other money making ventures instead of
    investing it to repair your problem which they Manufactured for U. While U
    have to make $300.00 + payments per month and come up with another $2000.00
    to $3000.00 in repairs Yea, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth such a
    wonderful Product...

    Oh I almost forgot the Priceless Wonder of owning a Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep,
    Plymouth Yea, this is Great Your Family and Loved Ones they may get Caught
    in a Fuel Tank Fire due to a faulty Fuel Filler Grounding Strap or maybe
    just Pop out the Back Door of your wonderful Family Mini Van. Chrysler,
    Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth Oh Yea Definitely get life insurance for all your
    Loves ones riding in your New And Wonderful Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth
    vehicle.

    So yes Go out and tell all your friends How Wonderful a vehicle Chrysler,
    Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth really is Oh yea and here is the Sad part of this
    whole Story.
    U know Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth dealers they won't give U anything
    for a Trade in they already know what U just found out that they are the
    Worst Vehicles ever Engineered But hey what's Losing a few Thousands of
    Dollars on repairs or at Trade In Time? U own a Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep,
    Plymouth vehicle and are proud and honored to give Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep,
    Plymouth more of your easy earned money to pay for there mistakes :O))))))))

    Even Better what could be better then Losing your Loved Ones Yea, That's Why
    Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth they are Wonderful and Priceless :O(
    Enjoy the ride who knows when U may find yourself on the side of the road or
    Worse in a Hospital Hoping and Praying your Loved Ones will recover :O(
  • stanastana Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 GMC S-10 Jimmy. The problem I have is when I put it in 4-HI it's not engaging. 4-LOW seems to work fine. What do I look for,sensor,module,electrical or what?
    I need some help.
  • thames1948thames1948 Member Posts: 1
    my 93 t bird trans has only 48,000 miles on it and
    the od stoped working at the same time as the tv cable came off. I reattached the cable with a new bushing but didn't adjust anything. now when it shifts into od it acts like its in netural and the
    rpm's go up . The trans works great in drive. It just seems odd that both things would happen at the same time witout being related. Is there something I can try or adj and is this a common
    problem with ford aod
    thank you
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The overdrive band is burned out, and the direct clutch (for 3rd & 4th) isn't far behind, due to low line pressure. The tv cable sends an engine load signal to the trans for 2 reasons:
    1- driveability - automatically delays upshifts and provides part/full throttle downshifts relative to engine load, to prevent engine lugging
    2- transmission durability and service life - automatically raises trans oil pressure as engine load on the trans increases (throttle opens). Idle line pressure in forward ranges is 55-75 psi, automatically increasing to 190-210 psi @ wide open throttle.
    With the tv cable disconnected the trans assumes closed throttle, giving no delay on shifts (shifts are early and stacked), AND no increase in line pressure from the closed throttle value of 55-75 psi.
    If it's any consolation, most of the AOD transmissions I rebuild are due to the tv cable bushing breaking and allowing the cable to disconnect from the throttle body linkage.
  • tommythtommyth Member Posts: 1
    All:

    I have 1994 Olds with overdrive transmission. Actually the car belongs to a friend of mine who can't afford to pay mechanic's wages so he is relying upon me. I don't know the car well except from a test drive. I notice shudder upon decleration ~ 12-15 mph (about where the trans shifts from second to first gear. In first gear, it works fine. In 2,3 and OD is where the shudder is evident. The car accelerates albeit slowly. The fluid is red. Since the car was given to him, he has no records of the last engine or transmission tune-up. I don't know if the trans was rebuild. The engine was slightly rough at cold idle but runs fine once warmed. I was going to do a trans tune-up but am open to suggestions...
  • theicemantheiceman Member Posts: 736
    At 110k miles, our van started shifting VERY abruptly from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. The idiot lights indicated that the "transaxle received the wrong instructions" (according to the manual). The local Ford dealership determined it was an internal problem and wanted $200 just to tear it down and diagnose the problem. Instead, we took it to a reputable transmission shop (yes, they DO exist) and it took them mere minutes to conclude it was a solenoid. Total bill: less than $300, incl. taxes.

    To aggravate matters, the transmission shop was quoted $250 for the part from Ford. They went to Nissan (this is, after all, a Quest powertrain) and Nissan's price was $90.

    None of this episode makes Ford look particularly good.
  • juliette94juliette94 Member Posts: 8
    Hi,

    My dear old Camry (170K miles) suffered an injury coming over a big steel plate in the road. A hole was punched in the transmission pan, and the pan needs replacement and of course new fluid.
    What actually happened is that after the bump, the car was running with odd sounds, like roaring and grinding in the engine. It managed to go 12 highway miles (at 60 mph) back to the airport, and restart after a one minute park. It sounded as though it was not finding the right gear as we accelerated awkwardly back onto the highway, and it was gunning and slowing down. We had to pull over and stop. After the engine was off for a few minutes, it started up fine, but wouldn't move out of park. That is, the gear shift would move the pressing the accelerator did nothing in any gear besides gun the motor. The garage has just called to tell me they will replace the pan and fluid for 200$, and then see what happens.

    Here's my dilemma: with such an old but pretty reliable car (head gasket leak, kicky transmission, but never breakdowns), is it worth it to spend 200$ on a repair that may not be all that's needed? We were probably going to get rid of the car in the next 8 months anyway, but if anyone here thinks the pan and fluid are all that are needed, then we are willing to go ahead and repair. The garage did not hazard a guess as to odds that the transmission will not need to be rebuilt or replaced.

    Thank you,
    Juliette94
  • juliette94juliette94 Member Posts: 8
    Just to clarify. It's probably obvious I know very little about cars.

    Juliette94
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm....I'd say there's a very good chance you damaged the transmission, since heat is really the killer with an automatic....but, really, who knows for sure? I think you have no choice, as I certainly wouldn't rebuild the trans on a car with that much mileage, especially since you are going to dispose of it soon. Maybe it would be cheaper to call around wrecking yards for a used oil pan..that could save you maybe half the money, but you'd have to do the footwork. If you have comprehensive insurance on this car, perhaps your insurance would cover part of the damage.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The scenario you've described usually results in one or more clutch packs in the transmission burned out, requiring an overhaul. The clutches are applied by hydraulic pressure and if the fluid's lost the clutches will slip and burn as they slowly release. Sometimes a person gets lucky and the fluid runs out fast enough for the clutches to release fairly fast, resulting in little internal damage. It's worth changing the pan and replacing the fluid but the $200 charge is excessive. Most tranny shops can locate a used pan (or weld up the hole in the old one) and install it for a lot less. They should also be able to tell by the amount of debris in the pan how much damage has occurred. In the event that it's terminal you might want to consider a used transaxle from an auto recycling yard.
  • juliette94juliette94 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the responses. We have another car, and have decided one is enough for us. $200 isn't alot, but everyone seems skeptical that there isn't further damage, so that would be money down the drain. RIP, old car.
  • ayratayrat Member Posts: 26
    Please, excuse Me for being off topic.

    Would somebody, please, tell Me if that is alright to drive with power-steering reservoir filled (for whatever reason, I do not know) with transmission(?) fluid (it is having red color) instead of pwr-steering fluid. Should I drain it away and fill up with a standard PS fluid, or there is no harm in using and mixing this two types of fluids?
  • michaelm10michaelm10 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX 6 cyl sedan manuf. Nov 99 with 12000 miles. Just recently I have noticed that on 3 occasions and when in reverse the transmssion made a clunking noise as if I rolled over something.NHSTA advises that there is 2 manuf. service bulletins(# 280100 and # 00065).Can anyone advise what these service bulletins state? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might check here for a general idea of what it says, but the site won't let you read the whole thing......

    www.alldata.com

    Host
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    If you have your manual, check it. I know for Nissans, Dextron III (ATF) is suitable for the PS (according to the manual).
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    All GM products that I have owned from '82 to '94...definately can not handle Dextron II. They take regular PS fluid found at say Kmart. I believe Fords take Dextron II, but check it out. Someone like alcan probably will advise you, I would not mix and get the right stuff in there.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The answer is:....."it depends"..........

    Some cars use P/S fluid, some ATF, some can use either, some cannot use either.

    There is no single ATF or single P/S fluid that is compatible with all systems, that I can tell you.

    So you really have to read the directions in this case....if you accidentally mix the fluids in small amounts, I really don't think this is going to hurt anything, but by all means READ THE BOOK!.
  • smstmsmstm Member Posts: 4
    I own a 99 svt contour. At 10000 miles the clutch was already shot. Being the first car I had ever driven that was a stick, I thought I had learned it correctly but maybe not. I was wondering if it went out because of my method of shifting: To be as smooth as possible (and quicker) on the 1-2 upshift I would keep a little bit of throttle on when I pushed the clutch down, instead of abruptly coming off the accelerator then pushing the clutch. I like this method much more than coming completely off the accelerator but I'm not sure if this causes excessive clutch wear. Can anybody give me some insight into this problem? I would love to return to my smooth way of shifting.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, this would cause the clutch to wear prematurely I think. If the disk is separating from the flywheel at high rpm, it would tend to use up more clutch surface material.

    Similarly, holding the car with the clutch on a hill will cause wear, and downshifting to slow down the car (rather than using the brakes) will cause more clutch wear. Also, "riding" the clutch by resting your foot on it lightly while driving will cause wear as well.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    If the clutch is shot in 10000 miles and there are no other problems in the manufacturer or some other mechanical problems, it would appear that the problem is your shifting. I'm not bragging but in 40 years of driving sticks, I've never worn out one. That includes a '68 Camaro V-8 that got some hard driving once in a while. Your goal is to match the speed of the engine with the new gear selected. Naturally this means that if you were going 30 in first at 4000 rpm you may be at say 2500 rpm when the clutch is engaged in second. If you have a tach you should not see a large swing in rpm as you engage the clutch. You should feel little slipage as the clutch is engaged. Don't make love with the clutch it should be partially engaged as little as possible. You may need to go back to the drawing board here. Do you keep the clutch pressed in a lot with the car in first gear-bad. Do you down shift a lot when you are slowing down-bad.
    My $.02. Good luck.
  • ayratayrat Member Posts: 26
    mine is pont. bonneville'92 and in manual it says: "use standard PS fluid". Thank you for responding.
  • clkmclkm Member Posts: 1
    On Christmas Eve of last year I was driving my Neon and was about 30 seconds away from home when I heard a very loud banging noise and the car sort of jerked and began to feel like it was dragging something as it was moving. Within seconds I was able to pull off to the side of the road but the car began filling up with smoke so I immediately got out of the car and called my sister (we both own the car) to come get me and follow me as I drove the car off of the main road.

    We had to wait a few days but we eventually had it towed to a local mechanic who told us the transmission casing had broken apart, which shocked us as the car only had 48,000 miles on it. It turns out the center pin which holds the differential together worked its way loose and the rattling caused the casing to blow apart (we found out this would cost a minimum of $1900 to replace with a remanufactured transmission). On the way home we found two pieces of the transmission on the side of the road.

    The manager of the customer service center at our dealer's told me to call Daimler customer service because the car wasn't covered under warranty and he said that he couldn't guarantee anything but that they should be able to help me. After explaining everything to the woman at customer service and after telling her that I hadn't had a prior transmission problem and that the warranty had run out, she said that for both of those reasons they wouldn't be able to assist me in the matter. I asked her if it was common for the pins to come loose and the transmissions to blow apart because if it wasn't normal wear and tear, something was obviously defective and it should be fixed by them and if it was normal I should've been told this when purchasing the car (a great selling point for the extended warranty!). Her response was that the warranty had expired and they wouldn't help. I asked to speak to a supervisor and she said that she was in the position to make the decision and the supervisor would agree with her so I couldn't talk to anyone else.

    My sister immediately called the manager of the service center back and he asked us to bring the car in to have the rep who comes by every month to take a look at it. They called a few days later and said that they would replace the transmission (remanufactured) for $300 plus tax, which I assume was the cost of labor. We were a bit surprised that they agreed to fix it so fast, particularly after the customer service call, and I'd just like to know if anyone else has had a similar problem.

    Thanks in advance!
    clkm
  • jdejongejdejonge Member Posts: 1
    I had recently purchased a 2001 Ford Mustang GT Coupe. I am new to driving a manual, however I noted something unusual about the manual transmission.

    There was a tag on the shifter indicating the procedure to engage reverse that goes as follows:

    * Have the transmission in neutral.
    * Release the clutch in neutral.
    * Depress it again, and while holding it down...
    * Shift into reverse.
    * Proceed with backing up.

    However, when I follow this procedure, the reverse gear grinds if I shift too quickly (in under 5 seconds) from the neutral position. It acts as if there are no synchromesh gears on the reverse, and you have to wait for the clutch/input shaft assembly to "spin down" to a stop before you can engage reverse. Is this normal?

    If I need to quickly get to reverse, I have to "borrow" the synchro in first gear (to stop the input shaft) by using this procedure:

    * Have the transmission in neutral.
    * Release the clutch in neutral.
    * Depress it again, and while holding it down...
    * Shift into first (allowing the 1st gear synchro to stop the input shaft)
    * Still holding the clutch, shift immediately into reverse.
    * Proceed with backing up.

    I know of many other cars with a manual that do not have this problem. And, I know that if this was a problem it would have been part of the procedure; since they made a point of it. I had practiced in my mother's 1991 Geo Metro, and it does not seem to have this problem. And my friend's 2000 Hyundai Elantra didn't have a problem either.

    Thanks for any information that you can provide.

    Regards,

    Robert
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    and be easier. Just a thought. Every manual in my experience has its own quirks. I'm not sure yours is unusual.

    Al
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The 4T60-E transaxle is an old design. It began as the THM440T-4 in 1985, redesignated 4T60, then updated to the 4T60-E with electronic solenoid control for shift valves and torque converter clutch, up to 1998. All versions including the E retained the vacuum modulator for line pressure rise. It was the only GM transaxle series to do so.

    It's replacement, the 4T65-E, appeared in 1997 (I think) with supercharged 3800 engines. Some 3100's and naturally aspirated 3800's retained the 4T60-E through 1998, so there could be a 2 year span with either transaxle depending on engine torque. The 4T65-E controls are as follows:

    Control Systems:
    Shift Pattern: (2) Two-way on/off solenoids
    Shift Quality: Force motor control
    Torque Converter Clutch: Pulse width modulated solenoid control

    So if it looks like a 4T60-E but has no modulator, it's a 4T65-E or 4T80-E (essentially the old THM400 modified for fwd and with an overdrive gearset). Because many posters here don't bother to include year, model, or engine, responses can sometimes be an educated guess. Sorry for any confusion it may have caused.

    Btw, here's the specs for your transaxle:

    4T40-E Transaxle (MN4)
    Transaxle -- Model Year 2000

    PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS

    Type:
    Four speed front-wheel-drive, electronically controlled, automatic overdrive transaxle with electronically controlled torque converter clutch
    Engine Range:
    1.5L - 3.1L
    Maximum Engine Torque:
    200 lb-ft (271 Nm)
    Maximum Gearbox Torque:
    325 lb-ft (440 Nm)
    Gear Ratios:
    1st 2nd 3rd 4th Rev
    2.957 1.623 1.000 0.683 2.143
    Maximum Speed Shift:
    6500 rpm
    Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight:
    4100 lb (1860 kg)
    7-Position Quadrant:
    P,R,N,OD,3,2,1
    Transfer Design:
    2-Axis design, link chain assembly
    Case Material:
    Die Cast Aluminum
    Control Systems:
    Shift Pattern: (2) Two-way on/off solenoids
    Shift Quality: Variable Bleed Solenoids
    Torque Converter Clutch: Pulse width modulated solenoid control Converter Size:
    245 mm (reference) (Diameter of torque converter turbine)
    Fluid Type:
    Dexron® III
    Transaxle Weight:
    Dry: 74.7 kg (164 lb.)
    Wet: 85.0 kg (187 lb.)
    Fluid Capacity (Approximate):
    Bottom Pan Removal: 7.0L (7.4 qt)
    Complete Overhaul: 10.0L (10.6 qt)
    Dry: 12.5L (13.2 qt)
    Pressure Taps Available:
    Line pressure
    Manufactured:
    Windsor, Ontario

    APPLICATIONS:
    - Chevrolet Cavalier
    - Chevrolet Malibu
    - Pontiac Sunfire
    - Pontiac Grand Am
    - Oldsmobile Alero
    - Oldsmobile Cutlass
    - Saturn LS
  • hank26hank26 Member Posts: 1
    The car (with the transmission problem) is as follows:
    1999 Chevrolet Lumina LTZ sedan
    3.8 L V6 engine
    3800 series II
    4 spd electronic transmission
    I am a newbe at posting etc. (first time). I am very surprised at the amount of information and different options available when discussing a transmission problem.
    The problem that caused me ask the question orig. (hard shift) has not occurred since I posted the question.
    Thanks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    That's the 4T65-E transaxle, fully electronic control. There's either an inermittent problem with the pressure control solenoids, the wiring to them, or an intermittent problem with one of the sensors reporting engine load to the powertrain control module. Any of these usually causes the transaxle to default to maximum oil pressure to protect itself against slippage and damage. A scan tool is required to retrieve any stored diagnostic trouble codes, and monitor system operation to detect any faults.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    alcan thanks for the infor.interesting.
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    I just serviced my transmission again, time for the 15k fluid and filter change.
    When I dropped the pan, the magnet was grey from all the tiny metal fragments. Anyway, no large metal pieces, just a lot of grey built up on the magnet all over it. I serviced my tranny soon after I bought the truck at 50k and expected to see a lot of the grey metal shaving crud on it as I suspected it hadn't been serviced since new. Anyway just wanted to know if the build up on the magnet is excessive for 15k miles.
    The truck is a 1997 Chevy Silverado 5.7l 4x4 with the 4L60E tranny.

    Thanks
    Bob
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Bob, that's pretty much normal even for 15K. Fluid changes don't remove what's in the converter and cooler and some particles will remain, to find their way onto the magnet.
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    Thanks, for the info. I need this truck to last another year or two before getting another one, this time brand new, and wanted to make sure it wasn't anything to worry about...
    Thanks again

    Bob
  • michaelm10michaelm10 Member Posts: 11
    For those Accord owners as well as Honda Odyssey owners the following information may be helpful. In part, Honda Service bulletin # SB614081 (available thou NHSTA's web site) states in part: SYMPTOM "With reverse gear already selected, the transmission bangs when the vehicle starts to move backward or when the vehicle is accelerated (torque is applied to the transmission." PROBABLE CAUSE: "The reverse is not fully engaged into the counter shaft reverse gear." VEHICLES AFFECTED: Odyssey 1999 - ALL; 2000 - From IN # 2HKRL1...YH500001 thou 2HKRL1...YH559976. Accord V6-4dr: 1998-99 ALL; 2000 From IN # 1HGCG1...YA000001 thou 1HGCG1...YA053670; Accord V6 2 Jr:1998-99 ALL; 2000 From Vin #1HGCG2...YA000001 thru 1HGC2...YA026314. CORRECTIVE ACTION: Replace the transmission with a remanufactured unit. DIAGNOSIS: "If the transmission bangs when the vehicle starts to move in reverse, or when it is accelerated in reverse, install a remanufactured transmission." My personal experience consists of owning a 2000 Honda Accord 4d sedan, 6 cyl, and having no problems for 12000 miles. Upon reaching 12000 miles I experienced the above symptom 3 times during a six (6) week period resulting in the dealer ordering a remanufactured transmission for my vehicle. I would appreciate any input for the following: Has anyone had any problems with the installation of a remanfactured transmission? Also, is the remanfactured transmission warranted for an additional 3 years, 36000 miles from the date of installation as advised to me by the dealer?
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    '92 Chev Corsica (Auto 3 sp.) If only a little acceleration is used-there is no noise. The forward gears work flawlessly, including the torque lock in the converter. Transmission fluid is crystal clear and no odor. Any thoughts-Alcan or others? I will be taking it to the Trans man this week. Car belongs to daughter-this problem may have existed for a while.

    Thanks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Hoo boy, put me in the hot seat huh? :-) Since the input to the planetary gear set is in the same direction regardless of gear range it sounds like a problem in the gear set itself. The gear teeth are helical cut and when load is applied they develop axial thrust. They rotate in the opposite direction in Reverse and will walk along their shafts in the opposite direction from that in Drive. Without being able to hear it with a stethescope I'd be guessing either a torrington bearing or excessive pinion end play in the reaction carrier. About the only other thing I can think of would be the helical final drive itself, since it's rotating in reverse then too. Don't think it's going to be the drive chain since it always turns the same direction. It'll be interesting to hear what it was.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Sorry to do that to you, I was just fishing for an answer like..."It's no problen...just replace the (pick a name) solenoid and the problem will go away." Or "this problem will not spread to the rest of the tranny if reverse gear is minimumized." Like I said-with minimum load the noise can't be heard.

    Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer. I appreciate it.

    Al
  • donald2323donald2323 Member Posts: 1
    im not too familiar with transmissions,..but is it possible to convert an automatic back to standard manual??...and if so, how much (approx) would this conversion cost me?...i drive a golf tdi

    ill appreciate any feedback..thx
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, it's possibe and I've actually done it....however, it depends on two factors:

    1. The type of car.....some conversions are basically bolt-ins, and some are incredibly difficult

    2. The size of your wallet....even a bolt-in job is not cheap....on a Saab Turbo, which required NO welding, no fabrication.....just buying the necessary pedals, linkages, rebuilt standard tranny, clutch, etc + labor was close to $3,500. So this would be about as cheap as you could expect if you paid someone to do it.

    You could save money in a number of ways...a used transmission, and doing the labor yourself. Also, you could sell your used transmission if it were in good order. However, unless you really knew what you were doing, or had spoken in detail to someone who actually did the job, I sure wouldn't go that route. I wouldn't even hire someone who hadn't done about a half dozen of them and had a good grip on costs and procedures.

    I have no idea how difficult all this would be to do on a golf. I also don't know if it's really worth it on your VW. On the Saab, it is worth it because an automatic just kills the turbo performance and besides, Saab automatics were doomed to premature failure at that time. So I had two good reasons.
  • tandretti22tandretti22 Member Posts: 6
    i have had my car into the shop about 4 times now for misc problems including my transmission and another vibration. It still has a very clear hesitation when changing gears, especially going from reverse to drive. They re-built the transmission and replaced the pump and converter (2 seperate times). Two questions now arise.....1. Can I get them on the lemon law if they can't do it this time, and 2. Can I demand a new transmission?

    P.S. I have also had to pay 3 deductables ($100 a pop) and 2 diagnosis charges ($70 a pop).
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    on my auto transmission is a bad engine mount (not the transmission). I don't know which one yet. I'll keep you informed. I believe in reverse the engine rotates toward the front (at top). Thought you'd like to know.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    I have a 97 Taurus L. My mechanic states that he has the machine/equipment that gets all of the fluid out of the tarns. I had this done at 30k at the dealership. He gets 70 and the dealership wants 99.

    My question is are the machines or equipment becoming common? Or am I being told he has one and the stuff in my torque converter will remain and I get 1/2 changed?

    Ford manual requires fluid changes every 30k. I figure this is cheap insurance and should (hopefully) keep the tarns working right for a long time.

    Thanks for any feedback!
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    Not that it matters - the car is a 97 GL, this is for post 599.

    Also meant trans - not tarns. Sorry.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    They're fairly ubiquitous nowadays - the manufacturers of the devices market them to independent shops as well as to dealerships - so unless you have some other reason to distrust the guy, you can probably assume he really has it.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    I'm hearing that Wynns leases the machines or throws in other sweetners to independent mechanics.

    Got to admit that I'm generally distrustful of mechanics. I've gotten too much bad advice from some of them over the years. Just last year had one tell me that you shouldn't run synthetic oil after using conventional; it will leak out!
  • ecokeecoke Member Posts: 2
    Would appreciate any help..I have a 94 Town and Country..replaced tranny 14 months ago..at75k..now its acting up..will randomly not shift..I've had it in the shop twice, yet they say it won't do it for them..It is very intermittent..will do it for all trips for days in a row..then will go two weeks without ever doing it...I can drive to work..is ok, then go to lunch..drive a few miles park it..when i come out it will not shift into overdrive..at any speed...they say the fluid is clean no odors and prssures are correct..I'm no tranny guru..justlooking for some helpful advice ...also..they told me this will cause no damage if i drive it like this...yet seems to me I'm just asking for trouble..any help and advise would be appreciated...Thanks..btw..just bought a 2001 odyssey..yet cant sell T&C with tranny like this..
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I had that engine mount (upper) changed and that fixed the transmission noise. What a relief. Although this car (92 Corsica , 125 K)is on a binge right now. I've spent 1 grand on it in the last month on various failures including the infamous 3.1 intake manifold gasket failure (oil leak). I'm sort of committed to keeping it now although it may be a mistake. Happy Easter (ah, er, Happy politically correct Holidays)

    Al
  • michaelm10michaelm10 Member Posts: 11
    Would appreciate any response/ to the following:I own a 2000 Honda Accord, 6 cylinder EX sedan that has at 12000 miles developed the much reported noise (bang) in the automatic transmission when operated in reverse. Honda has agreed to replace the transmission, however, not with a new unit but rather with a re-manufactured transmission. Will anyone who has had similar problems and has had their transmission replaced under warranty advise me if their re-manufactured unit developed similar or other additional problems sometime down the road. Also, I would like to know: (1)If anyone has received a NEW transmission under warranty, (2)If re-manufactured transmission is warranted an additional 3 years from date of installation (that's what I've been told by a dealer ) (3) Aside from being totally new, the distinction/ between a new and re-manufactured transmission. Thank's for your input!!
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    This in not exactly the same... but my '01 Sentra SE had the tranny replaced after 300 miles. It was also a remanufactured unit. I was wild and fought it as far as the system would go. I lost. Alcan, who posts here regularly here calmed me down and told me there is a difference between rebuilt and remanufactured. In remanufactured all wear parts are replaced. I was still not completely happy, but the unit operates very nicely. Perhaps the extra attention and testing this unit got makes it even better than new. Anyhow I symphasize with you. It doesn't seem like your otherwise totally new car should have some old parts in it, but that's life.

    Later
    Al
  • scimitar15scimitar15 Member Posts: 11
    Greetings,

    I have an unusual problem with my '99 Acura CL (31,000 miles) with a 5 speed transmission and am hoping for help. The car runs fine but when I shift in either 1st or 2nd gear I am getting a soft but definite popping or clunk sound from letting in or out the clutch to engage the gears or disengage them. It either does not occur in the other gears or I just don't notice the sound. The clutch makes no sound when you depress the pedal while the car is stationary, just when the vehicle is in motion and you are changing gears. The clutch does not slip and there is no noise once the clutch has engaged the gears. I have not noticed the sound when shifting in reverse.

    I have taken the car to the dealer and they explained that the popping noise comes from the mating of the clutch plate to the gears (or whatever the part of the clutch does the actually connecting part). Although they did put in a new shift linkage kit which did not help. The dealer said the poppong sound is normal for the car and in fact one of the service people at the dealer has a manual Acura that does the same thing. Basically I was told not to worry about the the noise.

    My question(s) is this: Was the dealer giving me a line of B.S. to get out of not performing warranty work? And if so, will this noise eventually cause other problems? The noise has not gotton worse and I have noticed that when the weather gets warm the noise almost, but not quite, goes away.

    Thanks in advance.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    99 mazda protege ES:

    when CTP coasting to a stop (braking lightly), I can hear the gear shift into 1st gear with a clunk in the 3-0 mph speed range. Is this normal?
    Rep and dealer calls it normal characteristic of the tranny. Is it B/S or reality?

    BTW, had the tranny diagnostics also done. reported normal by the dealer.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Tell them to show you with another car,that will prove it.
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