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I have a 1999 93 turbo, and it recently did that same squeal, which comes only from the right rear wheel. Any suggestions on the diagnosis or repair? Did you have any work done to repair it?
I have 2001 Civic LX. The Car just stopped on freeway, The mechanic told me that the transmission is gone. The dealer wants @$3500 for a remanufactured transmission.
What do not understand is how come the Auto transmission gave up with 72,000 Miles. I know that 2000 Civic had some transmission problems. Does anyone know or heard about 2001 civic transmission problem?
Hi. I own a 1998 Lexus ES300 with 150,000 miles. When shifting out of park to reverse (backing up), I get a rough shift. I can feel a jerk which is accompanied by a short but loud thump. This happens when I leave for work in the morning or when leaving the office for the evening and it just began this week. I keep up on the maintenance including the tranny. Has anyone experienced this and how do I rectify it?
My 98 Mitsubishi Montero Sport when put into D drive as if the engine has no power. Slowly it gets up to speed and then everything is fine. OK in all other gears. I checked the codes and it gave P1600. It said "Seerial Communicatin Link had low voltage. Does anyone know what that means. Help Please David :confuse:
I have had a 98 Pontiac Grand Am for about 2 weeks now. It has the 2.4 liter 4 cyl so its suppose to have the 4T60E transmission. Well it won't go into 4th gear at highway speeds. First day I owned it the engine wiring melted and the dealer replaced the engine wiring harness.
First, secnod, and third gears wortk fine. Fluid looks and smells good. What could cause this transmission not to go into 4th gear? It tachs 3,000 rpm at 60 mph in third gear, when I put it into drive, still at 3,000 rpm at 60 mph.
Since you didn't mention uneven shifting I would look for the simple. If the thermostat isn't making the motor heat up enough the transmission doesn't go into 4th gear. What does the temperature gauge say?
If the car is going 40 in 3rd at light throttle the transmission should have the torque converter clutch lockup. Does it? You can test that by slightly accelerating and touching the brake pedal to make it think you're braking and the transmission should unlock the TCC and the motor speed will increase. It will speed up if you just push down a noticeable amount on the pedal with the 4T60 if I recall correctly. What happens there? Is the TCC locking up?
It might be a sensor for temperature on the motor not telling the computer that the car is warm even if the thermostat is heating it up. The computer may use a different sensor from the one for the instrument panel.
As far as uneven shifting, it waits a little long to shift but not to far out of the normal range (light acceleration shifts into second at 3,200, and third around 3,000.
The car is warmed up and the temperature guage is reading half-way up. I can feel the torque converter lockup working.
Additional info: In third gear at 60mph, it tachs 3,000rpm. And when I let off the gas it drops to about 2,000rpm or 1,800rpm. Once I shift from "3" into "D", it remains at 3,000rpm under light load at 60mph. And when I let off the gas the tach drops to 1,000rpm almost instantly. Then to resume crusing you have to push on the gas and spool the motor back up to 3,000rpm. It is a very noticable thing that is not normal.
I'm thinking something migfht have happened to the vacuum modulator if it has one?
I'm assuming that the TCC is locking up properly. And you said the motor is heating up to temperature--you should't be able to hold your hand on the upper radiator hose more than a couple of seconds after driving 10-15 minutes because it's hot.
I dug out the 93 service manual for leSabre with a 4T60E transmission... my 98 leSabre only covers 4T65E. No 3-4 shift:
control valve assembly; 3-4 shift valve (#362) stuck
4th clutch shaft; spline damage
4th clutch assembly; clutch plates burned, piston seals or piston damaged, clutch plates or piston mislocated
shift cable adjustment
The "shift cable" is the PNOD21 adjustment. If your car will start in Park and in Neutral, and you can select 1 and it stays in 1st gear, 2nd gives 1-2 upshift, 3 or D gives 1-2-3, that's probably not a problem. It's not an accelerator cable that adjusted the shift quality for engine power. I believe that's all electronic.
If everything else is relatively good in shift quality and you're getting nothing in 4th, I doubt it's the stovepipe or clutchshaft they list; I believe people have roughness when that's not working or stripped.
Good luck. I'm betting on a stuck/clogged solenoid valve in control body, but that's without driving it myself to sense what's happening.
or you could have one of the accessories bearing frozen up, and the engine w/belt continues to try and turn it....forcing the belt to slip and burn up. I suspect your belt isn't long for the world.
Well, I finally gave up and took the 98 Mitsubishi Monterp Sport to a transmission shop. He hooked it up to his transmission scanner to read the codes beyond the P1600 and found that it was a fuse that had blown. He said it was probably from the previous owner removing the CD changer located in the back. Now it's working and shifting just fine. A simple fix. Check the fuses! David
I think it may be the tcc solenoid when you go 4-5 mile down the road it shuts off when you come to a stop. recrank it cranks but when u put in gear it shuts off again. where is this located and is it easy to replace??? please help.
I have a 1996 Honda Civic with 122,000 miles. I had hoped to have it until 200,000 miles before I even considered getting another car, but today I had it towed to a Honda Dealer Shop with what appeared to be serious transmission issues that just popped up without warning.(a totally out of wack speedometer and a check engine light on)
I've always serviced the car (it's last transmission fluid change was at 95,000 miles). Depending on what the mechanic tells me... should I get the transmission fixed and try to get another 80,000 miles out of it... or should I get another car.
So what is the serious transmission problem? Certainly not the out of wack speedometer and check engine light.
Different trains of thought on junk vs fix. Some say to not fix any more than the used car value for the vehicle.
On the other hand if you know the car is sound and has been well maintained, and this is the only problem, then you might want to invest in the fix. The fix cost is less than a new car payment.
i think kiawah is right. it *might* be as simple as a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and not cost too much. you can google it. that does not telegraph future high-cost repairs IMHO.
i'd be trying to get another 80K out of it. i think those were good model year vehicles myself.
just heard from mechanic... he said I needed a new wire harness.. $220.... but the transmission scare made me look through my service records and I realized I was due for a transmission flush and a new timing belt anyway. I plan on getting at least another 80,000 miles out of this honda. thanks for your responses
I am having a problem with the transmisson, it will only drive up to 32mph and then the trans won't do anything. If I shut down the car and start over I can drive all day long as long as I don't go over 32mph what is the problem? Please Help!!!!!!!!
I just had the 5 speed manual tranny rebuilt by a local shop here in town due to bearing going bad. The mechanic purchased a kit that included all bearings and syncronizers. After reassembling the tranny, I now have a hard time getting it to shift into 1st gear and when I shift from 1st to 2nd, the gears will grind if I don't double clutch or shift fast.
My question, is this normal and once the tranny loosens up, things will be OK or did my mechanic reassemble it wrong? In order to get it into first without armstronging it in, I let out the clutch, push it back in, and it will then slip into gear. If I depress the clutch, wait a few seconds, then try to put it in gear, I almost have to force it into gear.
Hey guys, i'm working on a 95 monte carlo w the 3.4 eng, and i've dropped the trans (along with all the suspension, if anybody's worked on one of these u know what i mean) to change the input shaft seal that's begun to leak. Anybody know how 2 get that blasted robins egg blue torque converter?
Are you saying you can't get the transmission apart from the engine because the torque converter or are you trying to get the torque converter loose from the transmission?
I've already got the suspension (along with the trans) dropped. I just can't seem to get the torque converter off! I'm kinda baffled, i haven't come accross a torque convertor that takes more than a few good tugs to get it off! I used to own a lumina, so i bought the book (lumina/monte carlo) but i cant seem to find it. Any advice/info? Thanx
O.o What!? No i didn't get any help. Does anyone have any info on why the torque converter seems to be stuck? will i have to open the pan on the side? waht does a 98 Escort have 2 do with anything!? O.o?
sorry, didn't mean to sound like an A-hole, was just kinda puzzled. Still haven't gotten that blasted torque converter off. Somebody on another forum mentioned i might be dealing with a damaged pump bushing that could also be the cause of the leaking. Anybody got any idea how i should get that booger off? I tied a rope to the 3 bolts, made a knot in the middle, tied it to another rope with a loop, and gave it a few good yanks on the rope with a sledge hammer. O.o it's really stuck on there!
I'd suggest stopping at a friendly trans shop that's willing to say if they're had trouble with that model's torque converter removal and if there's a quirk or a unique way to remove it. Any downhome shop will have worked on many of the same trans and in my area most will take 60 seconds to tell you how to do it.
They realize the goodwill of helping me do something means the big or bad jobs come to their shop without question.
lol it wasn't pretty iselhondas, neither was what i ended up having to do! i ended up bolting a chain to the 3 points it bolts to the flywheel, using boards to make a little platform and force it with a bottle jack till it popped off! the bushing inside the torque converter was shot, and the seal was destroyed. The input shaft looked a little scuffed too. So after some deliberation, and chatting with the owner, we decided it'd be best to go with another trans. (we also discovered some metal shavings in the pan, so yeah)
I did ask around imidazol97, and a few people told me i shouldn't have much trouble getting it off unless something was damaged keeping it there.
i can drive my car all day but then the next day it won't move for me, i can wait a few days then drive again does anyone know what is going on? i am new at this so help please :confuse:
Last week we saw a stain/spot right under the transmission near the left tire. Drove the car on ramps and checked for leaks and found nothing. No leaks over next 4-5 days and 150 miles. Tomorrow when returned home there is even bigger spot on the driveway at the same location but again nothing dripping. However, when it leaked, it must have been coming down relatively fast because the stain shows that fluid ran few inches down the driveway.
Do we have a transmission leak (car has 31K miles, transmission fluid was changed last year around 26K)?
Do 4T40-E or similar GM tannys behave like described?
By the way no change in coolant, brake fluid levels, no gasoline odor and no motor oil. The stain/spot looks somewhat greasy but completely dried off in 3-4 days after the first incident without leaving any permanent visible stain.
Be on the lookout, for a leak at the transmission coolant fitting in the radiator. Had this happen to me on a different FWD vehicle a couple thousand miles after a transmission flush. They pull the fitting at the radiator, as an easy point to flush the tranny, and then when they put it back they don't get it tightened. It loosens up with heating and cooling and vibrations, and leaks progressively worse.
Just something you may want to check. See if you can find any wetness near those fittings.
Thanks kiawah for your quick response. The spot seems to be right under the transmission. However, I will check the radiator hoses and fittings extra carefully. I wonder if it is the fitting at the tranny?
Well actually in my case, the fluid originated at the radiator coupling, but then ran down the tubing and dropped off at a low point about a foot away from the actual source of the leak.
Somebody needs to get under there, dry everything off with paper towels if you need to, and then check a little later after driving or operation to see what is wet with fluid.
kiawah, thanks for your suggestions. I guess you had the leak as long as you drove the car. In our case we did not have any leaks except in two instances.
I am planning to take a closer look at those transmission to radiator lines and find out if they are leaking or not.
When Im driving off for 10min, the OD Off light starts to flicker on my automatic transmission and my gears seems be shifting to lower gear or dont accelerate even if you yank the gas there it seems that the transmission is locked to second gear or lower, it tried to on and off the OD button or shifting still have the same problem, sometimes this happens sometimes not but mostly it happens.
What seems to be problem? 1) Is it the Computer box for the transmission considering this is 1995 model? 2) Do you think the sensor on shifting the gears have some problem? 3) According to my friend their might be clog on the filter for the transmission fluid which sends out a wrong reading to the computer thereby shifting it to lower gear mode?
Hey everybody, Some of you may remember me asking about problems with a 95 monte carlo.(3.4L)
(my first question was about the torque convertor being stuck)
I'm back to ask another question. I swapped out the 4T60-E trans for another 4T60-E Off a 98 Buick LeSabre
First off, the Monte Carlo trans was running fine, but was dumping trans fluid from the input shaft. The Driver apparently ran it hard even after it lost the fluid from there and destroyed the bushing in the torque converter (causing the torque convertor to become stuck to the input shaft, and extremely hard to remove!) There was also the tell-tale blackish crap in the trans fluid, so even though the trans seemed 2 run ok still, owner decided it was time to 2 get another trans.
The LeSabre trans was very clean (the car was running great, and was involved in a front end wreck (did not damage anything more than cosmetic), so was parked and used for parts. Everything is identical with the exeption to the side pan, which is used as a mounting point on the monte's pan (i used the monte's) and the shafts (also used the monte's)
ok, so the details. The side pan also had another difference. The LeSabre's had i believe 6 bolts on the pan around where the cv-shaft goes in. in order to use that pan, i also had to swap the shift solenoids and pump (all integrated) The monte's uses a o ring, no bolts around the cv-shaft area.
So here's where it gets funny. I got everything bolted up and ready, filled the trans, check everything again. Start it up, runs fine. Goes into gear fine, shifts fine when driven, at first at least. Then driving down my little street, it'll drop into 2nd or 3rd, and refuse to shift out of it. I can put it in neutral, park, reverse, back into D or OD, and still goes to 2nd or 3rd (not sure which, but it's really weak) and won't get out. If i turn the car off, start it and put it into D or OD again, It'll start in first, and drive normally. But shortly after, again drop into a higher gear and refuse to shift. Any ideas? Did i forget something?
One other thing i forgot to mention, I thought maybe The shift box that sits on the shifter (on the trans) might have something to do with it, but tried both the original, and the the LeSabre one (which is identical, with the exeption of the wire that carries power to the starter) and with a little creativity, i connected it, but it did the same thing.
Also as a side note (i don't know if this has anything to do with) The owner apparantly made a "cool air intake" with the tubing you can buy at autozone, and there's a black vacuum tube that is connected to the side of the intake tube, and runs accross the intake (under the black plastic over the injectors) to the center left of the engine. It also runs around the driver side of the engine, around the egr electrical stuff, between the intake manifold and firewall, where it appears to go nowhere! O.o i taped that sucker up, cuz it was just open! The owner actually mentioned the car didn't want to start right away usually. I didn't start nor drive the car b4 i worked on it, but it starts right up for me, so i suspect he was running that open as it plugs into the intake tube, on the engine side of the Mass Airflow Sensor. Which makes me wonder if there's possible damage if he was running it lean this whole time... but does anybody know where that vacuum goes? like i say it's sorta just hangin there...
Lengthy, but i tried to include everything i've done, i know, and etc info. I appreciate any knowledge, info, advice!
Apparantly GM thought it would be funny to mix and match all kinds of funny stuff throughout the mid late 90's. I don't doubt urs came w the 4T65-E, but i checked, this one is definitely the 4T60-E (it says in big ol writing on the bottom of the pan lol) However, i found out what my mistake was. Since the LeSabre comes with a 3.8, the gear ratio is different (as the Monte comes w a 3.4) a friend who works at a trans shop (stupid i know, i shoulda talked 2 him first) told me the difference in gear ratios is throwing the computor off, an causing it to fall into a default mode (like a limp mode) where it's locked in 2nd gear just 2 get u home or off the road at least.
So i'll proly have him change the ratio, and pay him the labor an stuff. I don't want 2 drop that thing again. DON'T MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE AS ME!!!!
Now you've gone and done it. You made me dig my manual out since you're implying the 98 came with various transmissions as if G just does "funny" things.
A. You may not have a 98 leSabre from which you took the transmission. B. The car may have had an older transmission put in. C. The transmission may have had a different oil pan put on it.
The transmission RPO Code on the trunk sticker should be MN7.
My buddy called me yesterday with his tale of woe.
1994 Cadillac De Ville Concours - Northstar engine 70,000 babied miles.
So the transmission starts doing strange things without any warning. It seems to go into neutral, and it skips gears, check engine light came on. He nursed it home.
Next morning, no check engine light and transmission operates perfectly UNTIL it warms up. Check engine light comes back on and problems return.
He nurses it into a trusted (?) shop that he has used many times. They try replacing a solenoid etc and end up telling him the transmission is shot to the tune of 4000.00!
Does this sound possible?
Any good transmission shops in Orange County CA a person would suggest?
I just can't believe a transmission would fail without warning and 4000.00??
"Nursing it home", probably didn't help. Depending what metal pieces were floating around from whatever failed first, a significant amount of damage could have been done to other gears.
Kind of agree with kia, but with the check engine light on, what were the trouble codes? I would imagine that it may be a shift solenoid code, but without knowing, there is no point in guessing.
Comments
The Car just stopped on freeway, The mechanic told me that the transmission is gone. The dealer wants @$3500 for a remanufactured transmission.
What do not understand is how come the Auto transmission gave up with 72,000 Miles.
I know that 2000 Civic had some transmission problems. Does anyone know or heard about 2001 civic transmission problem?
Does anyone know what that means. Help Please
David :confuse:
First, secnod, and third gears wortk fine. Fluid looks and smells good. What could cause this transmission not to go into 4th gear? It tachs 3,000 rpm at 60 mph in third gear, when I put it into drive, still at 3,000 rpm at 60 mph.
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
If the car is going 40 in 3rd at light throttle the transmission should have the torque converter clutch lockup. Does it? You can test that by slightly accelerating and touching the brake pedal to make it think you're braking and the transmission should unlock the TCC and the motor speed will increase. It will speed up if you just push down a noticeable amount on the pedal with the 4T60 if I recall correctly. What happens there? Is the TCC locking up?
It might be a sensor for temperature on the motor not telling the computer that the car is warm even if the thermostat is heating it up. The computer may use a different sensor from the one for the instrument panel.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The car is warmed up and the temperature guage is reading half-way up. I can feel the torque converter lockup working.
Additional info: In third gear at 60mph, it tachs 3,000rpm. And when I let off the gas it drops to about 2,000rpm or 1,800rpm. Once I shift from "3" into "D", it remains at 3,000rpm under light load at 60mph. And when I let off the gas the tach drops to 1,000rpm almost instantly. Then to resume crusing you have to push on the gas and spool the motor back up to 3,000rpm. It is a very noticable thing that is not normal.
I'm thinking something migfht have happened to the vacuum modulator if it has one?
Any additional info will be helpful! Thanks!
I dug out the 93 service manual for leSabre with a 4T60E transmission... my 98 leSabre only covers 4T65E.
No 3-4 shift:
control valve assembly; 3-4 shift valve (#362) stuck
4th clutch shaft; spline damage
4th clutch assembly; clutch plates burned, piston seals or piston damaged, clutch plates or piston mislocated
shift cable adjustment
The "shift cable" is the PNOD21 adjustment. If your car will start in Park and in Neutral, and you can select 1 and it stays in 1st gear, 2nd gives 1-2 upshift, 3 or D gives 1-2-3, that's probably not a problem. It's not an accelerator cable that adjusted the shift quality for engine power. I believe that's all electronic.
If everything else is relatively good in shift quality and you're getting nothing in 4th, I doubt it's the stovepipe or clutchshaft they list; I believe people have roughness when that's not working or stripped.
Good luck. I'm betting on a stuck/clogged solenoid valve in control body, but that's without driving it myself to sense what's happening.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
David
I've always serviced the car (it's last transmission fluid change was at 95,000 miles).
Depending on what the mechanic tells me... should I get the transmission fixed and try to get another 80,000 miles out of it... or should I get another car.
Different trains of thought on junk vs fix. Some say to not fix any more than the used car value for the vehicle.
On the other hand if you know the car is sound and has been well maintained, and this is the only problem, then you might want to invest in the fix. The fix cost is less than a new car payment.
i'd be trying to get another 80K out of it. i think those were good model year vehicles myself.
but the transmission scare made me look through my service records and I realized I was due for a transmission flush and a new timing belt anyway.
I plan on getting at least another 80,000 miles out of this honda.
thanks for your responses
Those are rugged transmissions so I wouldn't worry.
I just had the 5 speed manual tranny rebuilt by a local shop here in town due to bearing going bad. The mechanic purchased a kit that included all bearings and syncronizers. After reassembling the tranny, I now have a hard time getting it to shift into 1st gear and when I shift from 1st to 2nd, the gears will grind if I don't double clutch or shift fast.
My question, is this normal and once the tranny loosens up, things will be OK or did my mechanic reassemble it wrong? In order to get it into first without armstronging it in, I let out the clutch, push it back in, and it will then slip into gear. If I depress the clutch, wait a few seconds, then try to put it in gear, I almost have to force it into gear.
Suggestions??
Thanks much.
Dave in Pierre, SD
The mechanic messed something up.
Thanx
-Aaron-
-Aaron-
Thanx
-Aaron-
Be VERY careful here!
They realize the goodwill of helping me do something means the big or bad jobs come to their shop without question.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I did ask around imidazol97, and a few people told me i shouldn't have much trouble getting it off unless something was damaged keeping it there.
Thanx everybody! ^_^
-Aaron-
Do we have a transmission leak (car has 31K miles, transmission fluid was changed last year around 26K)?
Do 4T40-E or similar GM tannys behave like described?
By the way no change in coolant, brake fluid levels, no gasoline odor and no motor oil. The stain/spot looks somewhat greasy but completely dried off in 3-4 days after the first incident without leaving any permanent visible stain.
TIA
Just something you may want to check. See if you can find any wetness near those fittings.
Somebody needs to get under there, dry everything off with paper towels if you need to, and then check a little later after driving or operation to see what is wet with fluid.
I am planning to take a closer look at those transmission to radiator lines and find out if they are leaking or not.
I think you need a good transmission shop to take a look at it.
What seems to be problem?
1) Is it the Computer box for the transmission considering this is 1995 model?
2) Do you think the sensor on shifting the gears have some problem?
3) According to my friend their might be clog on the filter for the transmission fluid which sends out a wrong reading to the computer thereby shifting it to lower gear mode?
Can you please help me out on this problem.
(my first question was about the torque convertor being stuck)
I'm back to ask another question.
I swapped out the 4T60-E trans for another 4T60-E
Off a 98 Buick LeSabre
First off, the Monte Carlo trans was running fine, but was dumping trans fluid from the input shaft. The Driver apparently ran it hard even after it lost the fluid from there and destroyed the bushing in the torque converter (causing the torque convertor to become stuck to the input shaft, and extremely hard to remove!) There was also the tell-tale blackish crap in the trans fluid, so even though the trans seemed 2 run ok still, owner decided it was time to 2 get another trans.
The LeSabre trans was very clean (the car was running great, and was involved in a front end wreck (did not damage anything more than cosmetic), so was parked and used for parts. Everything is identical with the exeption to the side pan, which is used as a mounting point on the monte's pan (i used the monte's) and the shafts (also used the monte's)
ok, so the details. The side pan also had another difference. The LeSabre's had i believe 6 bolts on the pan around where the cv-shaft goes in. in order to use that pan, i also had to swap the shift solenoids and pump (all integrated) The monte's uses a o ring, no bolts around the cv-shaft area.
So here's where it gets funny. I got everything bolted up and ready, filled the trans, check everything again. Start it up, runs fine. Goes into gear fine, shifts fine when driven, at first at least. Then driving down my little street, it'll drop into 2nd or 3rd, and refuse to shift out of it. I can put it in neutral, park, reverse, back into D or OD, and still goes to 2nd or 3rd (not sure which, but it's really weak) and won't get out. If i turn the car off, start it and put it into D or OD again, It'll start in first, and drive normally. But shortly after, again drop into a higher gear and refuse to shift. Any ideas? Did i forget something?
One other thing i forgot to mention, I thought maybe The shift box that sits on the shifter (on the trans) might have something to do with it, but tried both the original, and the the LeSabre one (which is identical, with the exeption of the wire that carries power to the starter) and with a little creativity, i connected it, but it did the same thing.
Also as a side note (i don't know if this has anything to do with)
The owner apparantly made a "cool air intake" with the tubing you can buy at autozone, and there's a black vacuum tube that is connected to the side of the intake tube, and runs accross the intake (under the black plastic over the injectors) to the center left of the engine. It also runs around the driver side of the engine, around the egr electrical stuff, between the intake manifold and firewall, where it appears to go nowhere! O.o i taped that sucker up, cuz it was just open! The owner actually mentioned the car didn't want to start right away usually. I didn't start nor drive the car b4 i worked on it, but it starts right up for me, so i suspect he was running that open as it plugs into the intake tube, on the engine side of the Mass Airflow Sensor. Which makes me wonder if there's possible damage if he was running it lean this whole time... but does anybody know where that vacuum goes? like i say it's sorta just hangin there...
Lengthy, but i tried to include everything i've done, i know, and etc info. I appreciate any knowledge, info, advice!
Thanx :P
-Aaron-
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
So i'll proly have him change the ratio, and pay him the labor an stuff. I don't want 2 drop that thing again. DON'T MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE AS ME!!!!
-Aaron-
A. You may not have a 98 leSabre from which you took the transmission.
B. The car may have had an older transmission put in.
C. The transmission may have had a different oil pan put on it.
The transmission RPO Code on the trunk sticker should be MN7.
The axle ratio is 2.93. Final drive ratio is 3.29
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1994 Cadillac De Ville Concours - Northstar engine 70,000 babied miles.
So the transmission starts doing strange things without any warning. It seems to go into neutral, and it skips gears, check engine light came on. He nursed it home.
Next morning, no check engine light and transmission operates perfectly UNTIL it warms up. Check engine light comes back on and problems return.
He nurses it into a trusted (?) shop that he has used many times. They try replacing a solenoid etc and end up telling him the transmission is shot to the tune of 4000.00!
Does this sound possible?
Any good transmission shops in Orange County CA a person would suggest?
I just can't believe a transmission would fail without warning and 4000.00??
I would imagine that it may be a shift solenoid code, but without knowing, there is no point in guessing.