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My buddy nursed it to a long time trusted shop. They pulled the codes...I don't know what they were but they said they would try replacing the solenoids. This is a QUALITY shop that is well respected. It does, however have new management since the death of the long time owner.
Anyway, the next morning, they called and pronounced the transmission DOA and they gave him that HUGE estimate to fix it.
So, he called me. I asked my resident transmission guy for a referral in Orange County and he gave me the name of an ATRA shop that he said was an honest and capable shop.
At thiat point, my buddy called shop number one and told them to hold off. He told themhe would take the car home and park it while he decided what to do.
Three hours later, they called him...
" Hey, we decided to try ONE MORE thing...we installed a "update kit" of some type and now it works fine!"
Very interesting....
I guess a cynical person could think that just maybe, they planned to simply install the "kit" and charge him for a total rebuild....or....they would have simply farmed it out for the 4000.00 rebuild that turned out not to be needed...or...they were being totally honest?
I guess he will never know but 450.00 is a lot better than 4000.00. It works just fine now.
What do I think? I think that you were a good friend and your buddy owes you one. To be honest, I wouldn't be letting that shop do the work.
I guess a cynical person could think that just maybe, they planned to simply install the "kit" and charge him for a total rebuild....or....they would have simply farmed it out for the 4000.00 rebuild that turned out not to be needed...or...they were being totally honest? I try and give places the benefit of the doubt, but this one, I have to agree with your call. It sounds like they saw him coming and figured they could make some money.
They bad thing is, most the time, the mechanic in the back is clueless that this happens.
Transmissions are easy for some shops to condemn, as they can give folks nightmare stories about how the entire transmission is ruined.
Before plunking down $4k, it is wise to get a second opinion. Protect yourself. A reputable shop will have no problem with you wanting to get a second opinion.
Another thing. Transmissions log trouble codes too. If they condemn the transmission....... Ask what the troublecodes were. Did they check and see what the shift solenoids were doing? What part of the transmission, EXACTLY, failed?
Before plunking down $4k, it is wise to get a second opinion.
Don't most transmission shops have to pull apart a transmission to determine the extent of damage and give an accurate estimate? Once they (trans. shop) have you in for $300-$400 for diagnostics, it would be a bit hard to tell them to put it back together (or put it in a doggie bag) you want to take it somewhere else for a second opinion.
2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
The invoice said..." A filter between the solenoids had fallen out of place"
It sounded like this is a common problem on these. A "bracket kit" was installed to fix the problem and prevent it from happening again.
Jipster,
In the "old days" all a mechanic had to do was drive the car in order to determine what was wrong in most cases. They could feel the transmission slip between gears etc and pretty much know what they were going to find.
It's a new world today and the "old school" guys either drop out, retire or they are forced to learn a trememdous amount in order to keep up.
well i'm semi new to the forum and have a question. I have a 03 mazda protege with around 120,000 miles on it. i have had a problem with the clutch in the past where the last 2 inches of movement or so it would vibrate and felt rough. I did some research on my car and found that it has a problem with an air pocket in the slave cylinder line so i bled it for a while and it solved the issue. that was about 14 months ago.
the other day i was in a parking lot with my in 2nd gear and had my foot on the clutch. when i took my foot off the clutch it never came back up. it had maybe another 1/4 inch of movement but was fully engaged. once i got it parked i could see a brake fluid leak on the what i believe is the cap to the transmission. there is a line going from my master to my slave cylinder that runs right above the cap as well.
I believe that it is a pressure issue that is not allowing my clutch to function properly. could it be from a broken seal or a broken line. I dont have a 2nd person to help me out at the moment so im stuck guessing at the moment. also when i press my foot on the clutch i can feel it trying to build pressure but the leak occurs again.
Don't most transmission shops have to pull apart a transmission to determine the extent of damage and give an accurate estimate? No, not really. They should be able to drop the pan at the most to determine the extent of the damage. At the most, they would be out the cost of the diagnostics, filter and oil. If you brought a vehicle in for diagnostics and they disassembled the transmission to find a solenoid problem, then you don't want them doing the work anyways.
A person should ALWAYS ask about the diagnostics, how far they are going to go and how much it will cost. I'm always concerned when I see a pattern at certain places where they condem the entire unit on a whim.
once i got it parked i could see a brake fluid leak on the what i believe is the cap to the transmission. there is a line going from my master to my slave cylinder that runs right above the cap as well. Take a look at the diagrams and see if you can tell us where it is leaking. Clutch master and slave cylinder. It sounds like the resevoir is leaking at the hose to the slave cylinder.
could it be from a broken seal or a broken line. Yes, very much so. How much fluid is in the resevoir?
also when i press my foot on the clutch i can feel it trying to build pressure but the leak occurs again. Sounds like you may have blown the pipe to the slave cylinder. I'm not certain on the Mazda, but most of the are plastic and over time, can crack.
the part that is leaking it not on either diagram. Once I had the help of my mother to press the clutch down i found that there was a pinhole leak in a hydraulic hose from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I honestly dont understand why they would seperate the metal line in the middle and put a hose there. any thoughts on that. I have the part on order and hopefuly that will fix the issue. Do you think that this leak in the hose is enough to cause it to act like this.">
Hi, my 1994 maxima GXE wont go into park anymore. I was out driving it today and i pulled into a parking spot then i tried putting it into park and the button on the gear lever wouldn't go in(goes in half way and stops). Currently i have the car in the garage in neutral with the e brake on. :sick:
any ideas as to why i cant go into park?
also, my key just now got stuck in the ignition, came out earlier today when i had the car in neutral.
little background, on most mornings i have to "wiggle" the gear lever otherwise the car wont start, I'm guessing this is because the transmission doesn't engage "park" or something, I'm no mechanic. But most days a little wiggle will start up the car. I'm sure this has something to do with my current problems
my engine: VG30E, little over 100k miles tranny: RE4F02A (at least google says it is)
I had this problem with a toyota i had a few years back. try looking at the linkage on the transmission. You should be able to pull your key out when your car is either in neutral or park but never in gear. i would give that a try. you may also want to look at the shifter sylanoid. also try looking at the fuses. thats all i can offer as an amateur
Yeah, i thought it was the linkage too (google searched it as soon as i got home), its currently in the shop, no word from them yet.
The key came out earlier in the day but it wont anymore, i think the car doesn't realize I'm in neutral and still thinks I'm in drive.
My toyota's also get their keys stuck in the ignition. My 89 corolla did it, my 03 corolla does it. this is the first time my nissan has done it. But with both corolla if i wiggled the steering wheel the key would come out.
oh well, lets see what the mechanic says. i just wanted a 2nd opinion.
My sister has a '99 S80 with only 25K miles (she has owned it since new, and drives mostly cross-town and between neighboring towns). When starting from a stop, and usually when cold, the transmission will occasionally (once a month or so) slip for a second or so and then engage smoothly. She has also noticed it in the opposite situation, when she is coming to stop. She has not noticed slippage at any other time. The dealership cannot find anything on cursory inspection, nor did the condition occur during a test drive (not surprising given the frequency). Does this ring any bells for anyone? I'd like to reassure her that she is not facing a transmission replacement, and it doesn't strike me as being that serious, but I want to be sure.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
What do you mean "slip"? A slipping transmission means she steps on the gas, the engine revs up as in neutral, the tachometer goes way up, and then the car slams into gear. Is that what's happening?
Also I'm not sure how you can detect a "slip" when decelerating? It's hard for something to be slipping when there is no pressure upon it.
OK, I called up and asked for more specific details. Her memory is actually that, on pulling away from a stop, the car gives a couple of small jerks before pulling away smoothly. She doesn't specifically remember the engine revving up, so I would guess that it doesn't do so much.
Her statement about what happens when it stops is less specific (it's only happened once or twice), but her statement that 'the braking doesn't feel right' makes me believe that it may represent a loss of engine braking either from the transmission disengaging or from a malfunction in some system that controls engine speed (she had a vague impression of the engine speed increasing). As you can see, Shifty, you may be right that it is not the transmission, but rather an engine speed control system that is faulty. Further analysis may have to await another incident of the problem, during which her raised consiousness will cause her to remember more details. Thank you for your help, and I am cheerfully accepting any WAGs that may occur to anyone.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Well it is possible that the car is starting out in 2nd gear, then slamming into first, and vice-versa on decel. Hard to know really, with such mushy details on symptoms. But like you I'm thinking it is an engine management issue from the little we've gathered. She would have to pay attention to the rev counter as symptoms occur. Either a slip or an unintended downshift would register quite conspicuously on the tachometer.
Thanks, Shifty. I'll pass that on to her and write back when she gives me more details. I'll see her over the holidays, so if the problem is still there (and hasn't resulted in eventual failure) I will try to recreate it.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
I have a 2002 chrysler 300M. I have 73,000 miles. Having problems for the last 2 months. It's been to 3 repair shops. Done the diagnostic test. The 3rd place I took it to the chrysler dealership and that couldn't even tell me what was wrong with it. The car becomes slugish or it jerks when the needle is between the 2 & 3 RPMs. Mainly when you take off. Then of course it shifts into second. You cant get it above the 2 & 3 RPMs though. 1 shop said it was the engine, and 1 other place said transmission. The dealership feels it is possibly engine. Has anyone had any problems like this. It could be the timing belt, fuel pump, drive plate. These are very costly repairs. I love my car. I dont have that kind of money for this type of repairs. If anyone knows anything about this please let me know. Thanks
I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee & bought it used in 2003. Transmission in the past year has been either delaying/slipping in terms of a slight banging or downshifting in a abrupt way. Anybody has any similar problem with this. I've had service on the transmission regulary, Thanks
i have a 91 ford4x4truck and i changed it from an automatic(E4OD) to a 4 speed manual(t-18) got it all bolted up but it shook alittle but i didn't think to much about it until it got bad and i looked underneith it and the bellhousing is cracked about 4 inches above the starter and curves around and down to the bottom.what would or could cause this to happen? :confuse:
i just got a 95 jeep wrangler that my brother wasn't using. he told me he had no problems with the car, bought it new. i had it about a week and 5th gear just seemed to vanish. its not slipping, it just sounds like it is in neutral. has 70000 miles and i know nothing about cars but i really cant find anything on the computer about this. anybody hear anything like this before?
I have a 1991 Mercedes 350SL with 200,000+ miles that had the transmission rebuilt just four days ago. Upon getting it out of the shop, I drove it approximately 350 miles between cities and there was rain on the return trip. I did not submerge the car at any point during the trip. When I got back the following day, I noticed a sheen on the concrete under the car. I checked the fluid levels and found the transmission fluid extremely low.
Upon taking the car back to the transmission shop, the mechanics there pulled the transmission pan and concluded it was full of water, pink and kind of foamy. They allege the water must have come from the rain or having submerged the car. I say not! I have never had this happen to any car that I have ever owned.
Has anyone ever had a similar experience with water in the transmission and what was done about it?
If the humidity was high when the fluid was added, after the car drops back down to ambient temperatures, the water vapor in the transmission case could have condensed, hence, water in the oil. It sounds like the ventilation line might have gotten plugged or pinched during reassembly, and acting as a check valve, when the oil foamed, it went out the vent tube, and the water vapor remained behind. I would say contamination by the builder. The oil they added must have been contaminated. Ask them if it came out of a drum or individual bottles. Somebody didn't catch it.
Just had the 5 speed transmission replaced in my 2000 Celica with a used one. My car had about 80K miles on it and out of warranty, so I am pretty upset at Toyota and this will undoubtedly be my last one.....on that note, the "new" tranny that I had the shop put in had about 60K miles. The only potential issue is that it is abit notchy going into 3rd gear. Not every time...I would say about half the time. It's not terribly notchy, but I"m obviously paranoid that this tranny will also go out on me and I'd be stuck with another huge bill.
Tranny has 90 day warranty, but of course I'd have to pay for the labor all over again, and there would be no guarantees that another one would be problem free. New or rebuilt is out of the question as I am looking at over 4 grand for that.....I guess my question is, how serious is a notchy shift into third? My plan is to change the fluid annually and to listen/monitor the condition of the transmission very closely and sell the car if I hear anything untowards as I really do like the car besides the recent problem with it.
I have had it with the Toyotas. Lost both tranny and rear diff in 83 Cressida with less than 50000 miles. The prop shaft in our 91 Previa went three times before 140,000 miles. No more Toyotas for us. We have paid our dues. They won't get a penny more from us.
My 97 ford contour is ready for a transmission flush and a new timing belt. This will be done right away next week. Over the weekend I need a vehicle and cannot afford a rental. Last Wednesday when we got home from a friends I noticed a dinner plate sized puddle of tranny fluid. The temperature really dropped that evening to about 10 below. On our way to our friends we took a back road that was not plowed great and probably got wet underneath cause it was still daylight. My question is whether it is still possible and safe to drive if I fill it up and place a pan underneath the leak when I reach my destination. Is there more than one place it could be leaking? Should I find out myself and how should I do it?
The 97 ford contour went to the shop and got a new timing belt and valve cover gasket. The leakage was from the filler tube and is going to the transmission shop to get fixed. What should be the price for book time AND non-booktime when installing a main control cover and vent tube kit? Can someone please give me an answer this time?
If anyone knew the answer, I'm sure they'd answer it. However, you are asking for a very specific non-common repair procedure, on a very specific vehicle.....that is 10 years old.
The vehicle is at 76000mi and I bought it with 48k. I am not sure when the tranny fluid was last changed but it looks pretty dark. I noticed that there is no drain plug on the pan? I want to do this change myself ( I am mechanically-inclined) , what is the procedure or where can I find info on the process? I only desire a fluid and filter change not a flush. Also , if I don't use the 4 -wheel drive feature do I need to change the transaxle fluid as often or not ? Thank you for your time and input.
I get transmission fault on my 2001 Jaguar s type with a ZF German Transmission.
When this happens, it won't shift into 5th gear and displays other shifting problems. If I shut the car off and restart, the fault clears and the car well work perfectly. If I'm on interstate with no fault and in 5th gear, everything works well. I've read that this problem has also exhibited itself in BMW's and Audi's with this transmission. Does anyone know how to fix it?
You have to drop the pan to drain it, like almost everything else built today. When you change the filter the seal is part of a metal sleeve that presses into the case. There's a special tool to remove and install it, but you can do it without it if your very careful. It's a messy job, you need a large pan to catch the fluid. I use one of those plastic trays that you mix concrete in.
No I don't. I wouldn't be surprised if it was 15 or 20 in/lbs or so. I use a 1/4" ratchet and hold the head of the ratchet in the palm of my hand when turning it, not using the handle at all, and tighten it slowly in kind of a circular pattern. It doesn't have to be real tight, just snug, since there's no pressure in the pan. You can always snug it up a little more if you have a leak.
It's taken a while to get back to you, but the problem was finally found. You were right; it was a management issue, specifically the transmission control module. It tested bad, was replaced, and the problem has not recurred. Thanks to you and all of the others who responded. My mind has been relieved and my love for stick shifts reinforced.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
my honda crv 1995 with 137500km on it does the same thing and its an absolute pain to hear the engine noise. A few people suggest it could be a temperature sensor or faulty thermostat. If you or ny1 else find a solution let me now! thankss!!
I've got a quirk with my tranny and nobody seems to know how to fix it or what it is. I have a horrible 2-3 upshift and low throttle aggravates it. I've had it back to the dealer multiple times to have it reprogrammed and it works great for about 50 miles and the condition slowly starts to creep back until it's horrible again. The dealer also pretty much went through the tranny and couldn't find anything abnormal. I have seen by doing searches that several folks have the same problem but I can't see what they ever did to solve it. Thanks.
Yo shifty, over in "Questions and Answers" you wrote to be careful with transmission additives. I was unable to download your link. I've heard nothing but positive comments about lubegard, which is suppose to protect and provide smoother shifting for transmissions. What's your take on lubegard in particular?
2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
Can't find a mechanic who can find the reason the TRANSMISSION LIGHT Flashes. It's been two weeks and two mechanics; one transmission garage who said its an electrical problem but can't locate the problem, and; the other garage said it was a throttle pull but then said new plugs were necessary to correct. The light came on a day later. (Starts in 4th gear unless you manually shift 1-2-3). Otherwise, the vehicle runs great. What should I do next? It's getting expense and the problem is still not fixed.
I don't know lubegard. I'd have to research it and find out the chemistry to have an idea if it could possibly be effective or is just more snake oil jive.
Basically all the anecdotal information and testimonials in the world mean little because unless you do extensive testing with a control group and unless you control all the conditions for the transmissions being tested----you got nothin' there.
If you use Lubegard and your tranny goes 250K, is that due to lubegard or good luck? What if your neighbor doesn't use it and gets 249K? or 275K?
What if he doesn't use it and his transmission fails at 90K?
The answer to all these questions is: Nobody has a clue.
Try checking out their site. Seems to be recommended by some big time car manufacturers and automotive repair organizations. Research and "chemistry" seem to be there. Was thinking about putting some in my Mazda MPV, which has about 28,000 miles.
It makes me wonder about the claims when they state that anything the consumer can buy is bad and the only good additives would be found sold by professional shops. Are they sounding their own horn for profit?
Then they talk about fluid "sheer." Isn't that fluid "shear." Or am I on the wrong track.
Hurts validity of the paper if they don't have their terms right.
Well you can put in the additives but you'll have no way of knowing whether it does any good or not, was my point. It's like saying that the Mazda engineers don't know what they are doing, but the makers of Lubegard know everything. Now....really? Lubegard could be a perfectly legitimate, scientifically sound product and still a total waste of money.
As for ATRA, sure, one must always be suspicious of the claims of "interested parties" but I do generally agree that industrial-grade products for repair shops are always better than off the shelf stuff.
To me, most additives remind me of "vitamins" that people take. Lots of cost, dubious benefits, even though the vitamins are well-made and have all kinds of literature attached to them.
When they do clinical testing with large data base and double-bind reliability tests, it turns out that vitamins don't do much good at all.
Would I throw Lubegard into an AILING trans? Sure, why not? Into a perfectly good transmission? No, I don't see the point of spending the money on a problem that doesn't exist.
Comments
My buddy nursed it to a long time trusted shop. They pulled the codes...I don't know what they were but they said they would try replacing the solenoids. This is a QUALITY shop that is well respected. It does, however have new management since the death of the long time owner.
Anyway, the next morning, they called and pronounced the transmission DOA and they gave him that HUGE estimate to fix it.
So, he called me. I asked my resident transmission guy for a referral in Orange County and he gave me the name of an ATRA shop that he said was an honest and capable shop.
At thiat point, my buddy called shop number one and told them to hold off. He told themhe would take the car home and park it while he decided what to do.
Three hours later, they called him...
" Hey, we decided to try ONE MORE thing...we installed a "update kit" of some type and now it works fine!"
Very interesting....
I guess a cynical person could think that just maybe, they planned to simply install the "kit" and charge him for a total rebuild....or....they would have simply farmed it out for the 4000.00 rebuild that turned out not to be needed...or...they were being totally honest?
I guess he will never know but 450.00 is a lot better than 4000.00. It works just fine now.
Opatience, what do YOU think?
I think that you were a good friend and your buddy owes you one.
To be honest, I wouldn't be letting that shop do the work.
I guess a cynical person could think that just maybe, they planned to simply install the "kit" and charge him for a total rebuild....or....they would have simply farmed it out for the 4000.00 rebuild that turned out not to be needed...or...they were being totally honest?
I try and give places the benefit of the doubt, but this one, I have to agree with your call. It sounds like they saw him coming and figured they could make some money.
They bad thing is, most the time, the mechanic in the back is clueless that this happens.
Transmissions are easy for some shops to condemn, as they can give folks nightmare stories about how the entire transmission is ruined.
Before plunking down $4k, it is wise to get a second opinion.
Protect yourself. A reputable shop will have no problem with you wanting to get a second opinion.
Another thing. Transmissions log trouble codes too.
If they condemn the transmission.......
Ask what the troublecodes were.
Did they check and see what the shift solenoids were doing?
What part of the transmission, EXACTLY, failed?
Sorry, got off on another track. :surprise:
Don't most transmission shops have to pull apart a transmission to determine the extent of damage and give an accurate estimate? Once they (trans. shop) have you in for $300-$400 for diagnostics, it would be a bit hard to tell them to put it back together (or put it in a doggie bag) you want to take it somewhere else for a second opinion.
It sounded like this is a common problem on these. A "bracket kit" was installed to fix the problem and prevent it from happening again.
Jipster,
In the "old days" all a mechanic had to do was drive the car in order to determine what was wrong in most cases. They could feel the transmission slip between gears etc and pretty much know what they were going to find.
It's a new world today and the "old school" guys either drop out, retire or they are forced to learn a trememdous amount in order to keep up.
the other day i was in a parking lot with my in 2nd gear and had my foot on the clutch. when i took my foot off the clutch it never came back up. it had maybe another 1/4 inch of movement but was fully engaged. once i got it parked i could see a brake fluid leak on the what i believe is the cap to the transmission. there is a line going from my master to my slave cylinder that runs right above the cap as well.
I believe that it is a pressure issue that is not allowing my clutch to function properly. could it be from a broken seal or a broken line. I dont have a 2nd person to help me out at the moment so im stuck guessing at the moment. also when i press my foot on the clutch i can feel it trying to build pressure but the leak occurs again.
any help will be greatly appreciated.
No, not really.
They should be able to drop the pan at the most to determine the extent of the damage.
At the most, they would be out the cost of the diagnostics, filter and oil.
If you brought a vehicle in for diagnostics and they disassembled the transmission to find a solenoid problem, then you don't want them doing the work anyways.
A person should ALWAYS ask about the diagnostics, how far they are going to go and how much it will cost.
I'm always concerned when I see a pattern at certain places where they condem the entire unit on a whim.
Take a look at the diagrams and see if you can tell us where it is leaking.
Clutch master and slave cylinder.
It sounds like the resevoir is leaking at the hose to the slave cylinder.
could it be from a broken seal or a broken line.
Yes, very much so. How much fluid is in the resevoir?
also when i press my foot on the clutch i can feel it trying to build pressure but the leak occurs again.
Sounds like you may have blown the pipe to the slave cylinder. I'm not certain on the Mazda, but most of the are plastic and over time, can crack.
Such as some of the well known chains?
any ideas as to why i cant go into park?
also, my key just now got stuck in the ignition, came out earlier today when i had the car in neutral.
little background, on most mornings i have to "wiggle" the gear lever otherwise the car wont start, I'm guessing this is because the transmission doesn't engage "park" or something, I'm no mechanic. But most days a little wiggle will start up the car. I'm sure this has something to do with my current problems
my engine: VG30E, little over 100k miles
tranny: RE4F02A (at least google says it is)
thanks guys
The key came out earlier in the day but it wont anymore, i think the car doesn't realize I'm in neutral and still thinks I'm in drive.
My toyota's also get their keys stuck in the ignition. My 89 corolla did it, my 03 corolla does it. this is the first time my nissan has done it. But with both corolla if i wiggled the steering wheel the key would come out.
oh well, lets see what the mechanic says. i just wanted a 2nd opinion.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Also I'm not sure how you can detect a "slip" when decelerating? It's hard for something to be slipping when there is no pressure upon it.
Her statement about what happens when it stops is less specific (it's only happened once or twice), but her statement that 'the braking doesn't feel right' makes me believe that it may represent a loss of engine braking either from the transmission disengaging or from a malfunction in some system that controls engine speed (she had a vague impression of the engine speed increasing). As you can see, Shifty, you may be right that it is not the transmission, but rather an engine speed control system that is faulty. Further analysis may have to await another incident of the problem, during which her raised consiousness will cause her to remember more details. Thank you for your help, and I am cheerfully accepting any WAGs that may occur to anyone.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Transmission in the past year has been either delaying/slipping in terms of a slight banging or downshifting in a abrupt way. Anybody has any similar problem with this. I've had service on the transmission regulary, Thanks
Upon taking the car back to the transmission shop, the mechanics there pulled the transmission pan and concluded it was full of water, pink and kind of foamy. They allege the water must have come from the rain or having submerged the car. I say not! I have never had this happen to any car that I have ever owned.
Has anyone ever had a similar experience with water in the transmission and what was done about it?
Tom
Just had the 5 speed transmission replaced in my 2000 Celica with a used one. My car had about 80K miles on it and out of warranty, so I am pretty upset at Toyota and this will undoubtedly be my last one.....on that note, the "new" tranny that I had the shop put in had about 60K miles. The only potential issue is that it is abit notchy going into 3rd gear. Not every time...I would say about half the time. It's not terribly notchy, but I"m obviously paranoid that this tranny will also go out on me and I'd be stuck with another huge bill.
Tranny has 90 day warranty, but of course I'd have to pay for the labor all over again, and there would be no guarantees that another one would be problem free. New or rebuilt is out of the question as I am looking at over 4 grand for that.....I guess my question is, how serious is a notchy shift into third? My plan is to change the fluid annually and to listen/monitor the condition of the transmission very closely and sell the car if I hear anything untowards as I really do like the car besides the recent problem with it.
fluid was last changed but it looks pretty dark. I noticed that there is no drain plug on the pan? I want to do this change myself ( I am mechanically-inclined) , what is the procedure or where can I find info on the process? I only desire a fluid and filter change not a flush. Also , if I don't use the 4 -wheel drive feature do I need to change the transaxle fluid as often or not ? Thank you for your time and input.
When this happens, it won't shift into 5th gear and displays other shifting problems. If I shut the car off and restart, the fault clears and the car well work perfectly. If I'm on interstate with no fault and in 5th gear, everything works well. I've read that this problem has also exhibited itself in BMW's and Audi's with this transmission. Does anyone know how to fix it?
It's a messy job, you need a large pan to catch the fluid. I use one of those plastic trays that you mix concrete in.
You can use the drop down windows on the right of this page to search for Jaguar topics that might apply. I know they are discussion trans. issues.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
http://www.atra.com/consumers/bulletins/cb-108.pdf
I don't know lubegard. I'd have to research it and find out the chemistry to have an idea if it could possibly be effective or is just more snake oil jive.
Basically all the anecdotal information and testimonials in the world mean little because unless you do extensive testing with a control group and unless you control all the conditions for the transmissions being tested----you got nothin' there.
If you use Lubegard and your tranny goes 250K, is that due to lubegard or good luck? What if your neighbor doesn't use it and gets 249K? or 275K?
What if he doesn't use it and his transmission fails at 90K?
The answer to all these questions is: Nobody has a clue.
http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf.html
http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/index_trans.html
It makes me wonder about the claims when they state that anything the consumer can buy is bad and the only good additives would be found sold by professional shops. Are they sounding their own horn for profit?
Then they talk about fluid "sheer." Isn't that fluid "shear." Or am I on the wrong track.
Hurts validity of the paper if they don't have their terms right.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
As for ATRA, sure, one must always be suspicious of the claims of "interested parties" but I do generally agree that industrial-grade products for repair shops are always better than off the shelf stuff.
To me, most additives remind me of "vitamins" that people take. Lots of cost, dubious benefits, even though the vitamins are well-made and have all kinds of literature attached to them.
When they do clinical testing with large data base and double-bind reliability tests, it turns out that vitamins don't do much good at all.
Would I throw Lubegard into an AILING trans? Sure, why not? Into a perfectly good transmission? No, I don't see the point of spending the money on a problem that doesn't exist.