That is exactly what I got from them. I had contacted them before because the dealer that replaced the engine had done a terrible job and they had the car there for over 4 months on and off mostly on and always being towed to them.
I am being told now that since the engine replacement was only 2000 miles ago, that it is possible that they did not line up the transmission correctly when they replaced the engine. Can that happen? Is there a torque alignment for the transmission when the engine is replaced?
I have been fighting clutch cable problems for about a year now. At first it just started busting the casing around the cable. So I changed the clutch plate pressure plate to bearing fork and pivot ball. Which were all worn out. It lasted for a couple weeks and blew out the cable again. Well this time when I replaced the cable it seems way too loose. And I can't even get it in a gear now. I am at a loss and cant afford to get another car its just not possible I have to fix this one. Any suggestions would be very appreciated. It's a 93 mustang 5.0 mostly stock nothing big modified. I bought it from the original owners who were an older cpl so it hasn't been passed around.
1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow to slowly swing rearward. 2. Open the hood. Remove the screw retaining cable assembly insulator to the dash panel. 3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. Remove cable bracket screw from fender apron. 4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 5. On 5.OL engines, remove the dust cover from the bell housing. 6. Remove the clip retainer retaining cable assembly to the bell housing. 7. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable. 8. On 2.3L OHC engines, remove hairpin clip, clevis pin and clevis from end of cable.
Installation
CAUTION: The clutch pedal must be lifted to disengage the adjusting mechanism during cable installation. Failure to do so will result in damage to the self-adjuster mechanism.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should a prying instrument such as a screwdriver or a pry bar be used to install the cable into the quadrant.
1. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly into cable ball pocket on clutch release lever. On 2.3L OHC engines, place cable ball into clevis. Install clevis and clevis pin onto clutch release lever and into clevis pin. 2. Install the clip retainer retaining the cable assembly to the bell housing. 3. Install the dust shield on the bell housing (5.OL). 4. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. Install cable bracket screw in fender apron. 5. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the insulator with a screw. 6. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant. 7. Depress clutch pedal several times to adjust cable.
I have a 1992 Diamante. It is stuck in one gear I replaced the ECM a couple of years ago for another problem. Car sat for a month or so. When I went to drive it, had only one gear plus reverse. All the places that sell ECM say that there is a Transmission Control Unit. I can't find one. I have taken the whole car apart and there is not one. I think the ECM and the TCU are the same unit. I know when there a problem with these cars, the trans goes in to a "fail safe" mode. It will go into reverse very hard and has only one gear. Any body got any ideas what I need to do??
My car is a 92 Metro Automatic. I donot beieve my problem is a computer fault but a sticking valve. I adjusted the cable and added some Lucas conditioner and it seemed to help but the problem will intermittently occur mainly when the car has been driven awhile. After it downshifts it has trouble going into 3rd (highway speeds)
The book shows a Control Module for the 4-speed automatic in what looks like buried in the console below the ashtray and below the cruise control module.
I hope that's not your problem as that part lists for $629.
My truck will not engage in any gears. It starts fine but will not go into reverse drive or any other gear... I am new at this . Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!! Its a 2wd chevy tahoe v8 with only 53,000 miles. really great shape never have had any problems with it before.
can any one tell me if my through out bearing and release lever on an 99 audi a4 quattro do i need to think about just changing the whole clutch kit or will i be ok to change just those items
it sounds like you got the same problem as me (clutch issues)is your clutch a hydrolic or mechanical if its a hydrolice you might just have air in the lines and there are other test you can do
Depends on your mileage, whether they are highway miles or local driving, how good of a manual shift driver you are, whether the clutch has been replaced before, and how long you intend to keep the vehicle....etc, etc.
Since you have to open it all up to get to the throw out bearing, you might as well replace the clutch plate (and even consider the pressure plate). If you don't, and then down the road in a year and 15K miles your clutch plate then needs replaced....now you have a whole big labor charge again to tear it apart.
Personally, If I have to open it up ..... I'll replace it all, and then won't have to go into the clutch/transmission again.
I realize Audi parts are atrociously expensive, so it's possible one could examine the clutch parts and put them back in, but if there is any kind of mileage on these parts I'd probably bite the bullet. It's not like an Audi Quattro transmission falls into your hands after removing two bolts. This is not a 1965 Mustang clutch job.
If you are in doubt, have a professional give the parts a really close eyeball. And if you do replace it, use quality parts.
I have a gold/silver cylinder shapped object that is connected to the bottom of the transmission. It appears to be leaking water where the two halfs come together. What is this cylinder? I assume my radiator has a crack inside and is leaking water into the transmission through the lines. What else do I need to do besides replace radiator and flush transmission? Why would water come out and not transmission fluid?
The only thing I can think of here is that water from the radiator has entered your tranmission cooling lines. Normally these lines contain only fluid, which is sent to the lower tank in the radiator, and this lower tank is cooled by air rushing into the radiator. There is not supposed to be any water/fluid mix.
So just guessing from this distance, if you have water dripping out of the cooler lines at the transmission, (and presuming this is an automatic trans), then there must be an internal leak in your radiator between the two tanks.
I agree with that and am going to get a new radiator. That is the only way I could see water getting into the transmission. What is the cylinder that is connected to the transmission on the bottom. It is probably about six inches long and 3 inches in diameter. If you split the six inches in half it likes two sections come together and that is where the water is coming out. It is bolted into the transmission on the bottom the with cylinder coming out toward the front of the vehicle. What is this cylinder? Could I just drain the transmission and flush with some fresh and then refill or is there another step that I am missing. I am assuming I would have to replace this cylinder but do not even know what it is. Why would only water come out of it and not transmission fluid? Thanks for your help
>What is the cylinder that is connected to the transmission on the bottom. It is probably about six inches long and 3 inches in diameter. If you split the six inches in half it likes two sections come together and that is where the water is coming out. It is bolted into the transmission on the bottom the with cylinder coming out toward the front of the vehicle.
Is it possible to get a picture and post it to your carspace account and link it here or post to photobucket and link here?
Thanks for the comments. I will be taking a picture tonight and doing that. I called the mazda dealership and they were unable to help also. Just don't want to spend the money if I can do it. Radiator no problem. It will be posted tonight after I get home. I am on hawaii time. got some VTCs not to attend
I purchased an 08 Ford Explorer XLT V6 2WD with 22,000 miles that appeared to be in excellent condition. At approximately 25, 000 miles it picked up a transmission whine. The dealer's service told me it was normal. Unsatisfied, I contacted Ford Customer Relations. After several communications with them the consulted with the dealer and concurred with their findings. I find it hard to believe this noise is normal. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on what needs to be done to get rid of the whine?
i am having trouble getting the truck to shift into park after driving for awhile--i think it might be the shift inhibitor--has anyone changed it out?? if so where can i get it -other than a dealer--and can i change it or do i need to take it to the dealer-yuck
My grandpa just bought me a 2001 Nissan Sentra Gxe. About a Month ago....
First off.... the horn doesnt work, it's not the fuse.... Anyone know what it might be???
And for my main question.... about 2 days ago.... everytime I would switch gears from park to reverse or to drive ...It would make a clunking noise and then it would jerk. Also when I stop at a stop sign or press the gas to go it makes the clunking noise. Well, Come to find out, there was barely any transmission fluid. We had to put two quarts just to fill it back up.... Do you think that the transmission is done for... The clunking noises does mean it's the transmission right? And what it the estimated price of a new Transmission? I heard it was like 2,000 dollars, that seems a bit much, does that seem right?
Please help me out, maybe give me some advice. I'm only 18. And don't know much about cars....
I don't have the electrical schematics for your specific vehicle, but generically there are 4 parts to the horn circuit.
- a fuse, which supplies power to the circuit - the horn switch on the steering wheel, which turns on a relay - a horn relay, which is turned on by the horn switch, and has heavier electrical contact points which allow larger current flow to the horns - the horn(s) themselves.
WIth a voltmeter, you need to follow the circuit, and figure out where the failure is occurring. For instance, if you take the wire connector off of the horn, and measure the voltaget there, and you get 13 volts when the switch is depressed.....then the horns are suspect because the voltage is getting to the horns. If you don't have 13 volts, then the problem is somewhere 'upstream' that is not getting the voltage down to the horns. You can also supply the voltage directly to the horns, to verify that they blare. Most states do a state inspection, and the horn has to work. The horn is the least of your problems if your transmission is a problem....but if you bought from a dealership or used car lot I'd take it back. If you bought private party, you may be out of luck and have to fix yourself.
I'll let someone else help with the transmission question.
I own a '90 Chevy G20 Sportvan.The other day I felt a moderate vibration while accelerating in third gear(it has a 700r4),as soon as it shifted to fourth it went away.It happens at about 55 or 60 mph. Not to say it won't happen at higher speeds I do regular maintence on the tranny(about every 50k)Don't drive crazy.I don't tow much.If I do its not heavy(less than 2k)My van has 130k miles on it.I checked the fluid this morning it was full and reddish brown(didn't smell burnt) I'm a little concerned, I was going to drop the fluid and see whats in the pan tomorrow.I could sure use some input. Thanks Ironhead83
Why don't you get under there with a flashlight and a big screwdriver to pry with, and check for a loose or frozen (rusted) u-joint in the driveshaft? At least eliminate that possibility. And while you're under there have a look at the condition of the rear transmission mount.
I have an 01 jetta VR6 Has a bit of a skip between 2nd and 3rd gear after decelleration and geting back into excelleration figure 130k in the odometer so time for fluid and filter change. Dealership wants 375 for the change I think not!!! just need to know the basics of what to disconnect and a run down of the tools needed.
I have a 07 vw rabbit. It has one of those manumatic/shifttronic things that lets me shift manually. Does using this create more wear and tear on my transmission than just putting it in D and driving normally? I sometimes engine brake.
I have been hard at work finding a good used car w/ low miles for around $6-8K.Today, I came across a 2000 new beetle with 65,000 miles, clean, clean inside & out, fully loaded. However, I went over to a local mechanic to see about making an inspection on it and he told me that theTransmissions have caused major problems consistently. Is this true? I can't afford the car being in the shop. Thanks for your help.
Hi everyone, My 2001 Lexus RX300's transmission just failed and I'm looking for a new AWD crossover-type vehicle, preferably in the same luxury class. I've seen lots of posts here and elsewhere that transmission problems are the norm for this model, though I got a lot more mileage out of mine (140k) than most seem to. I'd love a new RX but not if I'm setting myself up for another transmission failure. So, in looking at some competitors, I'm also seeing lots of posts about transmission problems around 80-100k for many models of AWD crossovers.
My question for any mechanics and/or serial luxury crossover buyers is, are there any vehicles in this category that seem to have fewer transmission problems (and fewer overall reliability problems)? Some I'm considering are the Infiniti EX, BMW X3, Volvo XC60 and Mercedes GLK 350 (all AWD).
All- I have a 2003 Astro Conversion Van that has given me great service. I had to rescue the wife from the local Walley Word parking lot where she could not get the van to move in revese, but slightly and then it felt like it was binding. I got it home replaced the fluid, filter, and substituted a quart for some lucas Transmission fix thinking that something might be sticking. I still have no reverse unless you REALLY force it, now the van will drive in neutral, but slip. I still get normal shift and can run highway speeds in drive and while doing this I tried to engage/disengage the overdrive/tow button on the shifter, but got no noticeable change in RPM.
No reverse is a bad sign and usually means internal wear or damage---but of course recheck your fluid levels and also make sure the linkage hasn't fallen off or isn't loose.
It's possible some valve is sticking but more likely forward clutch is not releasing or the sun shell is damaged.
By all means have the trouble codes read to see if there is a code present, but right offhand I'm not aware that this could be caused by electronics---but I don't know for sure.
Hopefully you can find the answer to you transmission problem on this thread. If you need additional help from a mechanic try www.fairmechanics.com. The site is local to Knoxville, TN but for anyone in the area I think it would be a good resource. Hope this helps.
the transmisson jerks when in low speed after up and over 50 the car dose great what could this be? i check the fluid its not low. now i am have problems with the coolant temp running half way at all times im worried, i cant be with out a car i have a child that is disabled and is having surgery oct first i don't want to break down.
On the wya to work, my 1990 Nissan Pathfinder Automatic 4WD, was traveling uphill, and suddenly decided it wanted back downhill, and began rolling back. I quickly pulled to the side of the road, only to find my car would not drive or go in reverse. My truck has been well maintained, we are the 2nd owner it has just over 200k, (a lot, but it was spolied rotten).
We had gone to Scranton over the weekend, and noticed a smoke coming into the vehicle, we pulled over and checked under the vehicle, we didn't see anything. It was a light smoke, and we assumed it was the exhaust leak and cover the hole it was coming in. Now, I'm not so sure.
There is plenty of fluid in the truck, the oil was changed 2 days before the incident. We also noticed a slight grinding noise in the front drivers side, (we had the front end rebuilt last Nov). We have put som much money in the truck we are broke I don't want to get rid of it, so any advice would be helpful while we decide to have it towed to a shop or scraped. :sick:
When I engage the 4-high (button on dash), the 4 -high light just flashes. I here the transfer case solenoid engaging. The 4 wheel drive never fully engages (whether I'm stopped or slowly rolling). I'm not sure how to trouble shoot this issue any further, and the Hanes manual gives zero details on this aspect of the truck.
I see you say there is "Plenty of fluid in the truck." Is that because you checked after the "incident," or because the oil was changed 2 days prior?
If you haven't already, I would pull the transmission dipstick and literally "Smell" the oil. Does it have a burnt smell to it? Then, engage the emergency brake, run the vehicle until it is warm, put the vehicle in Neutral, and check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick several times to make sure the fluid level is at its proper level.
I know a lot of people expect cars to last forever but 200K is a lot of miles for any transmission especially on an SUV.
At that age and mileage, it's probably not worth the cost of a rebuild but you might be able to fiind a good used one. If the rest of the truck is in decent shape, it might be worth doing this.
Here it is almost 6 years later and I just discovered that I didn't reply to this post. My apologies and yes, draining the fluid seemed to correct the problem. (Actually, rather than draining it, I pumped it out via the dip stick tube.)
I have a 93 nissan altima 132,000 miles on it the tranny sometimes holds in first gear to 600 rpms then shifts hard into 2nd almost instantly into 3rd. Then downshifting it will slip sometimes . no bad smells or anything. had a mechanic tell me that is probably a solenoid or ? any help or suggestions greatly appreciated
This sounds like the governor inside the transmission and not solenoid related. This transmission is a kind of transitional unit from old tech to new tech, but in this case, given your symptoms, I think the old tech is the culprit, not the new tech. Just a guess from far away, but this problems you describe match very neatly to governor malfunction. This is not a fun transmission to work on, so you may get some high bids.
Comments
I am being told now that since the engine replacement was only 2000 miles ago, that it is possible that they did not line up the transmission correctly when they replaced the engine. Can that happen? Is there a torque alignment for the transmission when the engine is replaced?
1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow to slowly swing rearward.
2. Open the hood. Remove the screw retaining cable assembly insulator to the dash panel.
3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. Remove cable bracket screw from fender apron.
4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
5. On 5.OL engines, remove the dust cover from the bell housing.
6. Remove the clip retainer retaining cable assembly to the bell housing.
7. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.
8. On 2.3L OHC engines, remove hairpin clip, clevis pin and clevis from end of cable.
Installation
CAUTION: The clutch pedal must be lifted to disengage the adjusting mechanism during cable installation. Failure to do so will result in damage to the self-adjuster mechanism.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should a prying instrument such as a screwdriver or a pry bar be used to install the cable into the quadrant.
1. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. On 5.OL engines, slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly into cable ball pocket on clutch release lever. On 2.3L OHC engines, place cable ball into clevis. Install clevis and clevis pin onto clutch release lever and into clevis pin.
2. Install the clip retainer retaining the cable assembly to the bell housing.
3. Install the dust shield on the bell housing (5.OL).
4. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. Install cable bracket screw in fender apron.
5. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the insulator with a screw.
6. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.
7. Depress clutch pedal several times to adjust cable.
I hope that's not your problem as that part lists for $629.
Since you have to open it all up to get to the throw out bearing, you might as well replace the clutch plate (and even consider the pressure plate). If you don't, and then down the road in a year and 15K miles your clutch plate then needs replaced....now you have a whole big labor charge again to tear it apart.
Personally, If I have to open it up ..... I'll replace it all, and then won't have to go into the clutch/transmission again.
If you are in doubt, have a professional give the parts a really close eyeball. And if you do replace it, use quality parts.
So just guessing from this distance, if you have water dripping out of the cooler lines at the transmission, (and presuming this is an automatic trans), then there must be an internal leak in your radiator between the two tanks.
Is it possible to get a picture and post it to your carspace account and link it here or post to photobucket and link here?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
thanks dave
First off.... the horn doesnt work, it's not the fuse....
Anyone know what it might be???
And for my main question.... about 2 days ago.... everytime I would switch gears from park to reverse or to drive ...It would make a clunking noise and then it would jerk. Also when I stop at a stop sign or press the gas to go it makes the clunking noise. Well, Come to find out, there was barely any transmission fluid. We had to put two quarts just to fill it back up....
Do you think that the transmission is done for...
The clunking noises does mean it's the transmission right?
And what it the estimated price of a new Transmission?
I heard it was like 2,000 dollars, that seems a bit much, does that seem right?
Please help me out, maybe give me some advice. I'm only 18. And don't know much about cars....
- a fuse, which supplies power to the circuit
- the horn switch on the steering wheel, which turns on a relay
- a horn relay, which is turned on by the horn switch, and has heavier electrical contact points which allow larger current flow to the horns
- the horn(s) themselves.
WIth a voltmeter, you need to follow the circuit, and figure out where the failure is occurring. For instance, if you take the wire connector off of the horn, and measure the voltaget there, and you get 13 volts when the switch is depressed.....then the horns are suspect because the voltage is getting to the horns. If you don't have 13 volts, then the problem is somewhere 'upstream' that is not getting the voltage down to the horns. You can also supply the voltage directly to the horns, to verify that they blare. Most states do a state inspection, and the horn has to work. The horn is the least of your problems if your transmission is a problem....but if you bought from a dealership or used car lot I'd take it back. If you bought private party, you may be out of luck and have to fix yourself.
I'll let someone else help with the transmission question.
Thanks
Ironhead83
Thanks
I have been hard at work finding a good used car w/ low miles for around $6-8K.Today, I came across a 2000 new beetle with 65,000 miles, clean, clean inside & out, fully loaded. However, I went over to a local mechanic to see about making an inspection on it and he told me that theTransmissions have caused major problems consistently. Is this true? I can't afford the car being in the shop. Thanks for your help.
Madison
My 2001 Lexus RX300's transmission just failed and I'm looking for a new AWD crossover-type vehicle, preferably in the same luxury class. I've seen lots of posts here and elsewhere that transmission problems are the norm for this model, though I got a lot more mileage out of mine (140k) than most seem to. I'd love a new RX but not if I'm setting myself up for another transmission failure. So, in looking at some competitors, I'm also seeing lots of posts about transmission problems around 80-100k for many models of AWD crossovers.
My question for any mechanics and/or serial luxury crossover buyers is, are there any vehicles in this category that seem to have fewer transmission problems (and fewer overall reliability problems)? Some I'm considering are the Infiniti EX, BMW X3, Volvo XC60 and Mercedes GLK 350 (all AWD).
Thanks!
Any car can go through a transmission at 100,000 miles especi9ally SUVS that tend to have a hard life.
I got it home replaced the fluid, filter, and substituted a quart for some lucas Transmission fix thinking that something might be sticking. I still have no reverse unless you REALLY force it, now the van will drive in neutral, but slip. I still get normal shift and can run highway speeds in drive and while doing this I tried to engage/disengage the overdrive/tow button on the shifter, but got no noticeable change in RPM.
Thanks to all for you time to read and relpy!
It's possible some valve is sticking but more likely forward clutch is not releasing or the sun shell is damaged.
By all means have the trouble codes read to see if there is a code present, but right offhand I'm not aware that this could be caused by electronics---but I don't know for sure.
We had gone to Scranton over the weekend, and noticed a smoke coming into the vehicle, we pulled over and checked under the vehicle, we didn't see anything. It was a light smoke, and we assumed it was the exhaust leak and cover the hole it was coming in. Now, I'm not so sure.
There is plenty of fluid in the truck, the oil was changed 2 days before the incident. We also noticed a slight grinding noise in the front drivers side, (we had the front end rebuilt last Nov). We have put som much money in the truck we are broke
Thanks
When I engage the 4-high (button on dash), the 4 -high light just flashes. I here the transfer case solenoid engaging. The 4 wheel drive never fully engages (whether I'm stopped or slowly rolling). I'm not sure how to trouble shoot this issue any further, and the Hanes manual gives zero details on this aspect of the truck.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Nick
I see you say there is "Plenty of fluid in the truck." Is that because you checked after the "incident," or because the oil was changed 2 days prior?
If you haven't already, I would pull the transmission dipstick and literally "Smell" the oil. Does it have a burnt smell to it? Then, engage the emergency brake, run the vehicle until it is warm, put the vehicle in Neutral, and check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick several times to make sure the fluid level is at its proper level.
At that age and mileage, it's probably not worth the cost of a rebuild but you might be able to fiind a good used one. If the rest of the truck is in decent shape, it might be worth doing this.
thanks,