There are lots of ways to do this. I have used a "Mothers" product which is called "Back to Black" and it works fine. I have read that peanut butter works best. You work it in with a toothbrush and it supposedly works easily, but I have not done that. Alcohol supposedly also works, but walk down the aisle of any big parts shop like Pep Boys and I am sure you will find something designed specifically for that.
Well, I got my new Accord EXV6 tonight. As they promised, I can't tell the bumper has been repainted. The color looks matched to me. So, do I have to wait for a couple weeks before waxing that portion? Or does the paint cure quickly on the plastic bumper cover?
You'd be surprised at the heat the plastic will take. And- who knows - maybe the rubber ISN'T baked at the factory - only the metal? More reason to wait.
In the past day or so, you seem to have posted on almost every topic board that I visit. Each time, you have "just" found some fantastic product at Autosupermart and helpfully post a link. Are you just an incredible impulse buyer? Or are you employed by them? Just curious, because a couple of the things you have touted haven't seemed so hot to me.
I'm contemplating a small air compressor and rotary sander specifically for polishing cars as opposed to some of the heavy machine polishers on the market. Has anyone used an air tool for this purpose and what are some things to watch for? Can speed be varied? Is there a dual action versus single action air tool?
Curious why you would want an air polisher - you will need electricity for the compressor, no? If it's a gas compressor, then you could get a gas generator.
I have used a Wen orbital polisher for many years, the orbital design prevents most of the "swirl" marks associated with polishing, and it is almost impossible to "burn" the paint by pressing too hard in one spot. Be sure to get an orbital polisher and use foam polishing pads for best results.
I liked the weight and size (more control) of the air tool over the electric polishers I've looked at. My concern is variable speed and orbital motion. Just not educated enough on the tools yet. I've got a B & D orbital, but just find it too cumbersome. Besides one excuse to the wife for a compressor means I can add other stuff later - spray guns, grinders, impact wrench - MORE POWER!
However, paint is delicate, it is the one area where a light touch works better. I am not familiar with the B&D unit, but the Wen has a semicircular handle so you can use both hands. Actually, I usually used only one hand, the weight of the polisher was enough to do a great job, you should not need to press at all. Just let the polish do it's work. However, I don't use the buffer any longer, I'm into the polymers that just wipe on, wipe off and look and last fantastic!
i have had a dent in my door, make sure the paint is soft and its not cold , otherwise it can crack, it works great though, you would never know there was a dent.
I'm planning on ordering a 2001 Chevy Silverado or GMC Sierra pickup. The outside side mirrors are black with chrome on the forward facing surface. I really don't care for the look of these mirrors, especially chrome against my preferred color of gold. Has anyone ever tried painting a chromed surface? Is it possible to get suitable, long lasting adhesion? I would have it painted to match the body color. Thanks for any insights.
I just got my new 2000 Odyssey. Can any recommend a cleaning regime, products, etc. Do those washing wands work and, if so, which one do you recommend.
Wink40, Good how-to articles are at carcareonline.com. Washing and polishing cars can range from a dirty rotten chore to a love of life. Do what works best for you. Weekly washing with a good cotton chenille (or wooly) mit and wax when the water stops beading is probably middle of the road. Instead of the wand you'd be better off with a boar's hair brush on a 4' pole.
The body shop will probably just sand off the chrome before painting. An alternative might be a vinyl applique. Some of the window tint shops do vinyl graphics - maybe they could just cut pieces for the mirrors and stick on. Then if you wanted the chrome again you could just peel off.
I've searched this forum but didn't find the answer. I just bought a 2000 Nissan SE w/performance package, pearl white. It was manufactured in May. Do I need to wait before waxing it?
you can wax about 3 months after its MADE or PAINTED. so you have to check that. usually by the time they get here they are ready to be waxed. just dont let your dealer handle it for delivery. for car care advice, check out this link: http://www.autosupermart.net/forums/Car_Care/ they have lots of people talking about this stuff. also see above for another site.
I have a scratch about the size of a green bean on one of the plastic side molding on a 2000 Maxima (pearl white) that I purchased last week . The dealer offered to replace the side molding for me. However, I am worrying that doing so may actually worsen the problem since they must pry the one out before they can replace it. I thought of replacing it and even touching it up myself but I am not sure if I can do a good job. Does anybody have any good ideas? Any comment will be greatly appreciated.
Okay, my sister will be selling me her '91 Corolla for cheap. The interior looks great, however the car is REALLY scratched. A scratch is so bad that I see small signs of rust. Where should I take the car to be repainted? I'm will to spend about $500. Also, will I have to do anything about the rust? Thanks...
Our 2nd car is a 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis which has the tan landau roof in the back. From the weather there is mold and even some cracking in the leather. Is there any product which would remove the mold? Two years ago on a lark I bought a product and it worked great. Unfortunately, I didn't write the product name down. Now, there is some cracking. Maybe it's useless to try to make this look nicer and it's beyond help. I don't know. Can this section be replaced? Any ideas of the cost? Thanks for any advise.
My husband and I purchased a 2000 Dark Garnet Chrysler 300M. The car is less than 8 months old, and we've begun to notice that the paint appears to be flaking anywhere a pebble hits it -- on the side, the hood, the nose. The spots seem to be larger than they should be from a pebble hit. We've been careful, not following too close, etc. We brought the car to the dealer, and they said it was just normal rock chips and not covered. We've requested that a Chrysler rep look at the car. At this rate, the car will be a mess in a year. Is anyone else having this type of problem?
I just bought a 1998 Bonneville; the moldings between the side windows appear to be a glossy vinyl strip/adhesive--though I'm not sure. One portion of this molding has 3 dime-sized holes in it. What is the best method for repair? Also, it appears this vehicle may have been driven in desert sandstorms because some of the paint is "sheared off" as though it was sand-blasted. Would touch-up paint adequately stick to this formerly painted surface?...and should this type of paint repair be applied with an air-brush or would a tiny, hair paint brush work best?
I RECENTLY PURCHASED 2000 JEEP GCL. CAN SOMEONE RECOMMEND A CLEANER AND CONDITIONER FOR THE EXTERIOR VINYL MOLDING THAT WON'T FADE 2 DAYS AFTER APPLYING. I AM ALSO LOOKING FOR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR A TIRE CLEANER AND DRESSING THAT WON'T SPLATTER SILICONE ALL OVER THE BODY.
The tire dressing/exterior vinyl molding preserver sold by Zaino Brothers (Z-16) through their web site, zainobros.com, or by a Zaino distributor fits your requirements. Write sal@zainobros.com for referral to a local distributor, if there is one in your area, or order it directly.
I own a '99 red Toyota Solara that I really baby. Yesterday, while driving home from work, something rolled out into the street and hit the left bottom portion of my front bumper. It hit hard so I pulled over to take a look. Whatever it was left small dipples and white scratches in my paint. I know that I will probably have to live with the dipples, but I can't live with the scratches. I don't just want to cover them up with that GX product. I want something that is permanent. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 94 Accord in the Charcoal Grey (or Nightshade Grey). Over the years, it has seen its share of door dings and scratches. The car is in excellent shape overall and I would like to improve the finish a bit.
I bought some GS27, but it didn't work very well on most of the scratches. In addition, I got some touch-up paint from the dealer (using the correct color code from the vehicle sticker). I applied some paint to some of the scratches, but the new paint appears several shades lighter than the paint on the car. It really looks bad - worse than the scratches! I have been told that because the car is 6 years old, the finish has oxidized and will appear darker than the when the car was new. Too little too late!
Two questions...Is there any way I can get that touch up paint off? And is there a better way to get rid of my scratches?
I have a 1996 vw jetta, green. the left side of the plastic bumper on the back has dozens of scratches and chips in the paint revealing silvery-colored plastic underneath. the car looks perfect otherwise, but these beatings from city parallel parking make it look old and abused. any suggestions? touch up paint? tape? rubber bumper guard? thanks for any suggestions.
If you hurry, you might be able to remove the touch up paint before it cures completely by using another product from the touch up paint people which is remarkably similar to acetone or paint thinner. It comes in a one oz bottle and is called scratch color LEVELER. Plasti-kote, which is one of the touch up paint makers has it as their number 3703. It is designed for removing excess touch up paint, but it will remove all of it if used in time. There are many hints on how to touch up paint but most of them require LOTS of patience. Just start with a small amount and wait till it dries, don't try to fill the entire scratch right away. Don't use the brush which comes with the paint, it is much too big. Use a toothpick or a model brush. Look back through this subject for some references to several articles and point by point directions. I am not talented in this area, but I defy you to find the chips I painted over on my car. It took me a couple of weeks, one drop at a time and then leveling it with the acetone or whatever it is down to where the paint was almost all gone. Then start over again. Good luck, but you might have too big a problem to deal with by yourself. You may have to go to a body shop.
My 10 year ole Honda prelude has these rubber thingummybobs (bumper rails?) on the door that have turned grey with age. Kicker is, the rails on either side of the door (on the body) still look pristine black! I have waxed the entire car at times so how come if it's wax, it only remained on the door rail? I'm puzzled about this. Have tried black magic, assorted cleaners, but as yet, no cigar. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
I have a Mercury Grand Marquis that the clear coat in the front hood is peeling. Is there any product that you can use to fix it or do I need to get it re-painted. Any advice ???
Purchased a 2000 ram pick up, drk garnet pearl clearcoat. The paint is really thin and adhesion seems marginal,We also have "stone chips" in places where you wouldnt believe! We would be anxious to hear from anyone who is experiencing similar problems with chrysler products.
Hello! I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck in hiding swirl marks in their clearcoat.
I have a red 99 Grand Prix, and keep my car very clean, and while drying the car, over time, have noticed the appearance of the fine swirl marks that look like spider webs in direct sunlight.
I've taken care from then on to use different sponge/chamois on the top and bottom portions of the car and have not noticed the markes getting worse.
I've used 3M's hand glaze, which hides the marks well, but only for 3-4 weeks. Have any of you been able to find a longer lasting solution for these swirl marks?
If you're not using high quality, name brand, white, 100% cotton towels made in the USA to wash the car, to apply polish/wax, to remove the dried protectant, and to buff the wiped off-surface, you're likely getting the swirl marks from whatever you're using. Imagine the pattern you use in washing your vehicle, applying protectant, wiping the protectant off, and buffing; don't those spider web lines follow that same pattern?
Switching to such towels, yes, even to wash the vehicle, (I use a hand towel wrapped around a sponge) is somewhat more expensive than what you're probably using now, but it will stop adding to the swirls and scratches that you currently have.
If you use Zaino Z1 and Z5, available through zainobros.com, or a local Zaino distributor, you should be able to take care of the existing swirls and scratches. Given the color of you car, it may take five applications of the Z5 to achieve the desired result, which might take using Z6 on your polish applicator to help insure the most economical spreading of one bottle of Z5 on your size vehicle, but two bottles might be necessary. Call Sal Zaino at the telephone number on the web site, or write him at sal@zainobros.com to discuss your problem.
Do you know if that will restore the black color with some degree of permanence? My 89 Accord exterior rubber did the same thing, at least a lot of it, and a friend of mine has a 90 Volvo wagon which also has exterior grayed (previously black) rubber. My friend has tried a couple of products (one of them was Back to Black, but I don't remember the other) that looked super for exactly a day or two, then they faded away, and the rubber was ashen gray again.
Just wondering.
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
to make vinyl molding black again, and try to get off some of the wax, one grand vinyl cleaner, is a great product, i find it at http://autosupermart.com/ one grand is the company name.
I got the Zaino number wrong. It's Z-16 (Perfect Tire Gloss). The stuff is very easy to apply and produces a satin (rather than glossy) finish. It is intended for tires and all 'exterior' rubber parts such as those rails. According to the Zaino literature, it will protect rubber, has a UV filter, and also has good anti-static properties. Zaino only claims about a 4 to 6 week coverage period for an outdoor car per application. I used Z-16 on my tires and most of my exterior rubber parts on July 4th. After two washings and a few rain storms, the black color is still holding strong. Check it out.
Harley50, Don't know if you saw my post#489. Sounds like we're having the same problem with our Dark Garnet Chrysler 300M. We're complaining to the dealer and Chrysler. Waiting for the next visit from the Chrysler area representative. Hoping to find more people with the same problem before we meet with him. Sorry to hear of your problem, but glad to hear that we are not alone.
Has anybody here experienced a problem with the Dodge Ram (truck) 1500 series where the paint is separating from the primer? I own a 1996 Dodge and about 2-3 months ago the paint suddenly started flaking off in big "chunks". I now have locations (roof, hood, door pillars) with 2-7" spots that are continuing to grow at a rapid rate. I spoke with Chrysler and they directed me to my local dealer. The dealer said they would pay for 1/2 of the AFFECTED areas (which are still continuing to grow!!) This to me is not acceptable...... Anybody have any similar problems? I have found no recalls on such a problem.....
like dodge but, what color is your Ram? We're having problems with our Chrysler 300M and another individual, Post #500, is having a problem with his Dodge Ram. Both our vehicles are Dark Garnet. Your problem seems to be a little more advanced though.
My Dodge is a white Sport model. I'm not having any problems with the grill or front bumper (other than typical bug chips). I have had a few people around town (Melbourne, FL) tell me they have seen this happen to early model Ram trucks (94-95).
If you are having these problems already it may get considerably worse, as my truck was "perfect" for over 4 years.
I have been trying to find any recall notices on paint. Have you had any luck with Chrysler?
Hi all. My first post here and help needed. My wife bumped our car (2000 Hyundai Elantra, black) last weekend and left a dent on the front bumper. It's at the front-right corner and about the size of a tennis ball. There're also some scratches around it. It's not that obvious but just painful to look at. (Damn it!) A local dealership estimated it for about $450 to change the whole bumper. A bodyshop would "fix" it for about $200. So what do you think I should do? I'd like to have it changed, but with $500 deductable of my insurance, I'm going to pay the whole thing myself. Plus, I'll have to leave the car there for about 10 days. To have it "fixed" in local bodyshop would cost a lot less money and time. But can they do a decent job? Of course, they said they'd fix it like new, but can you believe them? Any experience? Any good body shops you know of? Your opinion and advice, please?!
I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T. I will be in California for much of the winter and will be leaving my car in my parents' driveway in Michigan. I unfortunately do not have access to a garage for storage.
What is your opinion regarding using a cover considering these factors (e.g., convertible top, MI's snow/sleet/etc.)?
I have seen reference to different materials/brands: NOAH, Dustop, Evolution 4 and Sentrex. What do you think is best? Where do you recommend getting one?
Thanks for your help and thoughts!
PS - If you think this is better suited for another forum (e.g., Accessories), I apologize; please let me know, and I will ask there...
Comments
I have a friend who tried Back to Black to restore an older, grayed/whitened rubber bumper. The report was that it looked great. For one or two days.
It might work to remove wax from unwanted places, though.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Your host, Bruce
I have used a Wen orbital polisher for many years, the orbital design prevents most of the "swirl" marks associated with polishing, and it is almost impossible to "burn" the paint by pressing too hard in one spot. Be sure to get an orbital polisher and use foam polishing pads for best results.
However, paint is delicate, it is the one area where a light touch works better. I am not familiar with the B&D unit, but the Wen has a semicircular handle so you can use both hands. Actually, I usually used only one hand, the weight of the polisher was enough to do a great job, you should not need to press at all. Just let the polish do it's work. However, I don't use the buffer any longer, I'm into the polymers that just wipe on, wipe off and look and last fantastic!
joe
Have any of you tried one of these services? How well do they work?
Does the repair really restore the surface to the original appearance?
Any information would be appreciated.
Good how-to articles are at carcareonline.com. Washing and polishing cars can range from a dirty rotten chore to a love of life. Do what works best for you. Weekly washing with a good cotton chenille (or wooly) mit and wax when the water stops beading is probably middle of the road. Instead of the wand you'd be better off with a boar's hair brush on a 4' pole.
Many thanks,
Bob
http://www.autosupermart.net/forums/Car_Care/
they have lots of people talking about this stuff.
also see above for another site.
thanks
jackson
talking care of rust problems.
I have a few small areas of rust that I can't see paying someone big bucks for if I could do it myself.
The car is also 11 years old and where the rust is it isn't a problem if the paint doesn't match exactly.
Thanks
I bought some GS27, but it didn't work very well on most of the scratches. In addition, I got some touch-up paint from the dealer (using the correct color code from the vehicle sticker). I applied some paint to some of the scratches, but the new paint appears several shades lighter than the paint on the car. It really looks bad - worse than the scratches! I have been told that because the car is 6 years old, the finish has oxidized and will appear darker than the when the car was new. Too little too late!
Two questions...Is there any way I can get that touch up paint off? And is there a better way to get rid of my scratches?
Thanks much for any help...
Thanks in advance
Any advice ???
I have a red 99 Grand Prix, and keep my car very clean, and while drying the car, over time, have noticed the appearance of the fine swirl marks that look like spider webs in direct sunlight.
I've taken care from then on to use different sponge/chamois on the top and bottom portions of the car and have not noticed the markes getting worse.
I've used 3M's hand glaze, which hides the marks well, but only for 3-4 weeks. Have any of you been able to find a longer lasting solution for these swirl marks?
Switching to such towels, yes, even to wash the vehicle, (I use a hand towel wrapped around a sponge) is somewhat more expensive than what you're probably using now, but it will stop adding to the swirls and scratches that you currently have.
If you use Zaino Z1 and Z5, available through zainobros.com, or a local Zaino distributor, you should be able to take care of the existing swirls and scratches. Given the color of you car, it may take five applications of the Z5 to achieve the desired result, which might take using Z6 on your polish applicator to help insure the most economical spreading of one bottle of Z5 on your size vehicle, but two bottles might be necessary. Call Sal Zaino at the telephone number on the web site, or write him at sal@zainobros.com to discuss your problem.
Also: indieboy: Zaino's Z18 Tire Glaze should help protect your rubber rails. Check it out at www.zainobros.com.
Just wondering.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
http://autosupermart.com/
one grand is the company name.
and about 2-3 months ago the paint suddenly started flaking off in big "chunks". I now have
locations (roof, hood, door pillars) with 2-7" spots that are continuing to grow at a rapid rate.
I spoke with Chrysler and they directed me to my
local dealer. The dealer said they would pay for
1/2 of the AFFECTED areas (which are still continuing to grow!!) This to me is not acceptable...... Anybody have any similar problems? I have found no recalls on such a problem.....
If you are having these problems already it may get considerably worse, as my truck was "perfect" for over 4 years.
I have been trying to find any recall notices on paint. Have you had any luck with Chrysler?
My wife bumped our car (2000 Hyundai Elantra, black) last weekend and left a dent on the front
bumper. It's at the front-right corner and about
the size of a tennis ball. There're also some scratches around it. It's not that obvious but just painful to look at. (Damn it!)
A local dealership estimated it for about $450 to
change the whole bumper. A bodyshop would "fix" it
for about $200.
So what do you think I should do?
I'd like to have it changed, but with $500 deductable of my insurance, I'm going to pay the
whole thing myself. Plus, I'll have to leave the
car there for about 10 days.
To have it "fixed" in local bodyshop would cost a
lot less money and time. But can they do a decent
job? Of course, they said they'd fix it like new,
but can you believe them? Any experience? Any good body shops you know of?
Your opinion and advice, please?!
What is your opinion regarding using a cover considering these factors (e.g., convertible top, MI's snow/sleet/etc.)?
I have seen reference to different materials/brands: NOAH, Dustop, Evolution 4 and Sentrex. What do you think is best? Where do you recommend getting one?
Thanks for your help and thoughts!
PS - If you think this is better suited for another forum (e.g., Accessories), I apologize; please let me know, and I will ask there...