Services--How often, and what to do?

retta

I spoke with my husband's private mechanic about my dealer's recommendation for alignment every 6,000 miles. 1999 Olds Alero, "performance" tires (what do I know)= no sidewalls, max. 20,000 mile life. He checked the wear and noticed some scalloping of the rubber. He also warned me that these tires blow-out easily over RR tracks and potholes. (Now I really feel safe.) He figures the dealer wants to cover himself by recommending the frequent alignments. Any more advice. Thanks.

clintonjohn

I've got a '92 geo tracker and was told that unless I bang into a curb or something traumatic like that, I shouldn't need to have an alignment. Don't know if that's true or not, but I haven't had one done in several years and don't notice any uneven wear on tires. $120 seems really really high for an alignment. I would think you could get one at one of those tire shops for under $50, especially if you keep your eyes open for coupons in the paper or mail.

dranoel

Alignment-my 10 year old Honda Accord ( which I gave to my daughter) with 100+K miles never had a wheel alignment and no problem with tire wear. Oil changes--my new MB 230K has a computerized service frequency device. It has an oil sensor that measures the contamination of the oil, takes into consideration distance driven and speed per drive as well.I have over 12,000 mi. and my "A" service will be due within 1,000 mi.At that time it will have it's first oil change. MB says this system it very conservative and they are very comfortable with the variable service monitor.

tancaj

I recently bought a used 1996 Buick Regal with the 3.8 V6. I need to replace the battery, but I've never seen one buried this deep. I've never taken a car to a shop for a battery replacement before, and I'd hate to start now! Can anyone give me a step by step? Thanks in advance.

bowmanjh1

Maybe its just me, but going 12k between oil changes, even if it is a Mercedes, sounds rather careless, despite what the dealer recommends.

olegphil

When I bought my '96 Camry, I've got a coupon book for free oil changes every 7,500 mi. It sounded like an awful long time between oil changes. I've checked Toyota's web site and they did recommend oil changes every 7.5K (5K for tough driving). I've decided to change oil every 3,750mi - once for free at dealership, once at independent shop. It's funny, but the dealer puts a reminder sticker that my next oil change is due after 7.5K, and the independent shop's sticker says that it's due after 3K. Who's right: independent shop, me or dealer?

gus

I think that the independent is thinking along the same lines that you are--oil change every three months.

I don't know if anyone is "right" here. The dealer is only following what the manufacturer recommends, and you're only doing what you feel is best for your car.

clintonjohn

I think its an issue of incentive. the quick lube place makes money by oil changes-the more you come in, the more money they make, thus they recommend oil change at 3 months. Dealer doesn't make nearly the money on oil changes as he does on major engine work. Not to sound Machiavellian, but the dealer has an interest in seeing your car break down, especially after the warranty runs out. You have to wonder what the rationale/ incentive for dealers to recommend such a long interval. I don't believe dealers are looking out for our best interests or that of the environment in recommending 7500 mi intervals. Although they're in it for the money, as well, I'll err on the side of jiffy lube.

mwikle

My opinion, only the OEM can be "right"...they designed the car engine in the first place. Modern ILSAC GF-2 oils, major brands, are FAR beeter than needing a 3K change for most drivers. Click & clack agree with me too!

The MB 12K changes is probably a bit agressive for me too, but be aware companies design and sell extended drain oils for diesel engines (dirty) that can go 40K before a change with monitoring---MB is doing the same thing in effect for a passenger car...yes a different service/drive. but good brand modern oil is very tough indeed.

That said, oil is cheap, cars are expensive, and I work selling oil for a living...sleep well, and if you feel better change every 3K! I'm more concerned about the quality of filter quicklubes use and the competency of the help ("tech" is often too impressive a term) than the oil issues. They shave every penny on their filters, as a bad one is rarely noticed until the engine fails earlier than it should and cannot be "pinned" back to the specific change.

shmang

Hi, guys!

When you talk about change engine oil/filter and lube chasis, is that one thing(only change engine oil and lube the drain bolt?). I am trying to keep changing oil myself, but just need some information on what/how to lube when change engine oil. I am sure you guys know about it. Any information will be appreciated.

clintonjohn

shmang-if you've got a newer car, i doubt that there's anything to 'lube' up until the last say 5-10 years, most cars had grease fittings in various places under the car. however, nowadays, most cars have sealed joints, so you cant grease them. on the plus side, crud is sealed out, on the minus side, it's my understanding that if & when the joint seal fails, you have to replace the whole joint-mucho dinero, but something that shouldn't happen until well after 100 thousand miles.

thirdeye

I just took my 92 Civic Si with 45k original miles (mostly city) into the dealership for a tune-up. They said the CV boots up front were cracked and should be replaced and that I need new brakes. Is it normal to need new CV boots and brakes for this car at 45k miles? Also, when may I expect to need a new clutch? I want to make sure I really need these repairs before I give them the go ahead. Any info would be appreciated.

fljoe

Hi folks :

Just wondering if it is worthwhile to take my 97 Prelude to the dealer to do a 30 K service. All the manual suggest doing is changing engine oil & filter, changing air filter, rotate tires and inspect all the valves, belts & hoses. However the dealer wants to change the transmission oil, ATTF fluid, brake fluid, spark pluge, flush & refill engine coolant and ton of other stuff. Also he wants to charge $350 for this service. Should I go for it ? Please advise.

clintonjohn

thirdeye-don't know about cv boots, but clutch should last well over 150000 miles provided you don't beat on it. 45k for brakes is reasonable, especially if a lot of the driving was stop and go, which a 7 year old car with 45k, seems primarily stop and go.
fljoe-follow the manual. dealer is asking a ridiculous amount for that work anyway.

spokane

Fljoe, the shop manual shows ATF change, coolant change, brake fluid change, and new spark plugs at 30,000 miles for "severe-duty" conditions ....but the fine print reveals that almost everyone's driving conditions qualify as "severe." There are several other things to be inspected which normally will not require any servicing. I would do it, these services will better assure good performance of the car for a long time. Since the items you mention are in the manual, it does not appear that the dealer is leading you astray.

The valve clearance check is the only item that requires much time. I agree that the $350 quote sounds high. Perhaps you could get the dealer shop to itemize the list ...and get some of the work done by a reputable independent shop at a lower price. Since the car is under warranty, be sure to keep invoices from any independent shops. Good luck.

ccotenj

wouldn't the same theory apply for the clutch as well? the stop and go of 45k in 7 years would take a big toll on clutch as well, as vast majority of wear (if not all) is on engage/disengage? unless i'm not thinking straight, which is always possible in the morning. i.e. 150,000K on highway with clutch is probably a lot less wear than 45k city on clutch. imho, anyway.

clintonjohn

ccotenj, good point. wasn't thinking in that direction, but you're right. however, i do think 45k is really low for a clutch, even with city driving.

artp

The CV Boots are just the rubber things covering the CV joints. If they are cracked it shouldn't cost much to replace them. The CV joints shouldn't be worn but replacing the boots will ensure that the joints stay clean and lubed. I would guess the boots cost less than $100 to replace while replacing joints cost around $600.

usmcpao

Just bought a cheap 88 Honda Accord, 135K. Seems fine but want to have it run for awhile. Do I pay the money for a dealer to do a major tune-up?

gus

Yes. A major tune up will also include some sort of safety inspection. If you didn't have the car checked out before you got it, you ought to now, just to see what you're in for in terms of catch-up maintenance, etc.

Gus
conferece host

olegphil

For an older car you will have a lot of minor things to fix, like spark plugs, wires, belts, hoses. These parts are cheap and the larger part of your bill would be the labor. Before going for it I would first get a quote from a dealer and a reputable independent shop. In the place where I live, dealers charge $70-$75 per hour and independent mechanics - $35-$40. The difference really adds up if you go through a major tune-up and a replacement of all fluids (oil, coolant, brake, transmission).

isellhondas

You find an independent who really knows what he is doing and doesn't try to sell you a bunch of work the car doesn't need!

brochet

I would like to know how often oil changes are required for the Ford Focus? A salesman I talked to up here in Canada said that they were required every 5,000 kilometers. That sounds like a lot to me--that's every 3,000 miles.

clintonjohn

brochet-over the life of the car, if you do the math, you're not saving all that much by going 10000 kilometers between changes versus every 5000. If you assume 200000 kilometer life, every 10000 change is 20 changes over the life. Thus changing oil every 5000 kilometers results in 40 oil changes. Now assume you go to Jiffy Lube at $20/oil change. The difference between the two intervals over the life of the car is $400. Small price to pay for the added peace of mind and insurance of the more frequent oil changes. Also, take into account the type of driving you do. If its alot of stop and go, then the more frequent changes would be the way to go. Also, the focus doesn't have a very big engine. It probably revs higher and is subject to more work than a big V8.

sunscreen

Is there a situation when using synthetics would not be good for a vehicle?

Thanks.

edmundcom

My Maxima GXE is now 64,000 miles. My dealer urged a 60K major tuneup to include new timing belt - told me I am in real and near danger of a break. Total is $879.00 plus tax. Do i really need new timimg belt? Do I need to do the 60K service NOW or at all. I change oil every 5K and
have 30K done. Can I have the 60K done at my local gas station to save some money without compromising the quality?
By the way how can I tell if my engine has a timing chain and instead of a timming belt?

Any advice is thankfull -

spokane

Almost all timing-belt equipped cars should have the belt replaced at about 60,000 miles. I realize the cost is an unpleasant surprise for the owner if the dealer failed to inform him of this need when the car was purchased. You may want to get quotes from other reputable shops. Suggest that you discuss both need and cost of each of the individual service items with each shop. In any case, to avoid major repair costs and inconvenience later, please do replace the timing belt within the next two or three months.

edmundcom

I believe this is a wise advice. Will bite the bullet and do it soon. Thanks again.

clintonjohn

I would shop around as well for a timing belt. wonder, though if that $800 bill is just for the timing belt or other stuff like coolant flush, spark plugs, oil & filter, etc. Those I would definitely take a pass on and take the car somewhere else. You can ususally find a good shop to do that kind of stuff and might find a coupon or two in the middle of the yellow pages to save even more.

hall2

I bought a 94 Nissan Maxima GXE back in 1997. It had 76k miles when I purchased it. The timing belt had never been changed. At 95k miles, I had the timing belt changed that cost a little more than $300.00. That was with 10% discount. When they(the dealer in Rochester, MN) change the TB, they also replaced misc. belts as well. I think your timing belt should last as long as mine. I got better gas mileage after timing belt changed.
Now I have 98k miles in this car. I also had to replace two fuel injectors out of those 6.

br459

I just purchased a 96 Camry 2.2 4cyl with 40K.
The car came with no owners manual and no paperwork for any service done by previous owner.
The car is really clean and smooth. Any ideas where to start for service intervals? I know my first step will be finding an owners manual.

Thanks

br459

Just wondering when you can tell if your timing belt is going out. I have 92 Mazda b2200 with 102K. Mechanically illiterate.

thanks again

bobs5

If you can't find a replacement owners manual, then pick up a repair manual as this should have a maintenance schedule for your car. If it were me, I would assume that no previous work has been done on the Camry, and pursue all maintenance which should have been done.


It will require a timing belt inspection to determine when a belt is going out. Inspect for cracks, wear, etc. like you would do for a fan belt. With 102k miles it is time. It is definitely not fun when they break.

spokane

I heartily endorse bobs5's advice that you replace the timing belt. Some can last past 102,000 miles but you are "on thin ice" with the original belt at this mileage. Good luck.

br459

Appreciate the information! :')

ntombi

Also, if you want to buy a replacement owner's manual, go to www.toyota.com. They have a sections for owners. You can buy one for as little as $9.95. They also have the service manuals for those who want to get down and dirty with their cars!

There is all sorts of info for Toyota owners on the site.

Not a Toyota employee, just a happy owner

deeba99

I bought my altima in Dec 99, it has 20000 miles on it now. I recently went to the Nissan dealership for an oil change and they advised me to do a service which includes changing the fuel and air filter, rotation , cleaning the batteries, oil change and inspection. They said it would take 2 hours and cost me $200. Since I got the oil change they said they would take $18 off the service. How necessary is it because I get the feeling of being ripped off. I have been doing oil changes every 3 months/3000 miles and did a rotation 2 months back. Can I get it done somewhere else and what specific things should I ask for. I would be moving next month and the drive would be at least 10 -12 hours so I want to get all the necessary services required for the car before that. I would certainly appreciate some advice.

spokane

Deeba99, apparently you are driving about 10,000 miles per month so your annual maintenance cost will be quite high compared with that of most drivers. The items you list do seem to be appropriate for your mileage but I suggest you read the owner's manual carefully to verify. Having done that, I suggest you get other quotes for the specific procedures involved. The $200 figure does sound high if it includes only the items you mention.

deeba99

Spokane, Thank you for your suggestion, though by mistake I wrote Dec 99 instead of Dec 98. Its been over a year since I have the car. Do I still go for the service?. Also what all services should I get done , e.g. do I need an alignment? The $200 service sounds like mainly inspection so thats the reason I feel uncomfortable paying so much.

spokane

Sorry I don't have service details for the Altima; it may need a few items checked or calibrated that I don't know about. Hopefully, the maintenance section of the owner's manual will help. Getting competitive quotes for service is likely to save money and provide more insight, but checking with another shop will require some of your time. Regarding wheel alignment, assuming tire pressures are correct, if the car tends to "pull" a bit to one side, you should have it aligned. Check the tire wear by moving your fingers along the innermost and outermost rows of tread blocks on each tire. If you feel a "waviness" or "cupping" on any tire, that's also an indicator of need for alignment. If the steering feel is good and the tires don't exhibit the wear in the "fingertip test," you almost surely do not need an alignment.

paul_francis

Looking at purchasing a new TL. My dealer in SC
gives the service schedule to be .04 a mile for the
first 120,000 miles. The first year, based on 15K
miles would be $489. This would include 4 oil,
filter changes, at 7K, balance and rotate tires of
applicable, inspect the following: brakes,
driveshaft boots, steering gear box, suspension
components,tires, undercarriage and do oil change.
At 11,250 repeat oil change. At 15K repeat all
service done at 7k but adjust parking brake, clean
air filter, inspect:hoses & connections, exhaust
system, fuel lines, Lub. locks & hinges, road. This
seems high to me for a lot of inspections. I may
be getting ready to spend almost 30K on a car. Am I
making a lot about nothing? Advice appreciated!
Paul

lucky20

Answer; to much $. My first comment is for any person purchasing a new auto. Negotiate the price for the new vehicle & then make the final OK to purchase, contingent upon including the oil change & vehicle inspections for two years, as part of the purchase price.
Second comment; You should be able to find a reputable independent shop or quick lube that will do the oil changes and visual inspections for a much better price then your have indicated.
Tire rotation & balance; Find a tire dealer that sells the brand tires on your new car or your favorite tire dealer,& ask the MANAGER if they will do the balance & rotation free of charge or for a reduced price. They may want your future tire business.
GOOD LUCK

br459

I just bought a 93' Nissan 4x4 69k. Took it in to mechanic and said everything was great. Compression was 115 per cylinder blah blah.
The only problem he found was a leaking front crank seal that he will replace for 125 clams.

What do you guys think?

bruciegee

I have a Dodge Caravan 3.3ltr w/100K on it. Do I need to change the fluid? If so, should I use something like Dexon or Slick 50 types?

garykrishnan

My "Serv" "Req" lights are constantly on and I have religiously changed my oil every 3K miles on my 99 Acura TL. The car has 7500 miles and I am not sure I need to spend the 120$ for "routine" maintenance. Please advise if it is necessary. Also will the "service reqd" lights disappear after a while ?
Please advice
Thanks

Gary (Indiana)

lwittorf

I don't know about the Acura but my chev has a change engine oil light that comes on if you don't reset it when you change oil is there a chance that some body is not resetting the comp when the oil is changed?

garth

either that, or expect expensive repairs in the future. preventative maintenance isn't all that expensive when you look at the risk of NOT doing it.

if you're that concerned about cost (which you shouldn't be, if you can afford a TL) then shop around - there's no reason a dealer has to do the service. just follow the manual.

other benefits, in my mind, of religiously following the service recommendations:
you don't void the warranty
your dealer service writer knows who you are, and knows you're a good customer - you're more likely to get better treatment, flexibility if something goes bad a bit past warranty, etc. (on my Acura, I frequently get my "in between the 7500-mi service" oil changes for free, plus a loaner, because they know I'm a good customer)
also, i feel like those little niggles that occur as a car ages are less likely to happen, or more likely to be noticed before they get really bad, if there's a trained expert looking at your car periodically.

as far as the light - again, read the manual, there's a reset switch somewhere.

ccotenj

is really far more than just changing your oil every 3000 miles. if you read your manual, you'll see what the light is on for. don't ignore it. routine maintenance isn't just the dealer "gouging you". it's to make your car last longer.

you own a house? use that as an analogy. you constantly have to do maintenance to your house. a car is no different.

-Chris

garth

you can let the roof leak into the attic for a while, and it might not "bother" you, but having half your house rotted away eventually will....

mikefm39

Let's get real now. My Honda manual says under the routine maintenance to "check antenna mast". Ha!!! I could just see the service man laughing all the way to the bank on that one.

Oh, and please, don't compare a house to a car in regards to maintenance. I've had no problem finding a qualified contractor to work on my house who I trust. Just the opposite finding a dealer shop to trust. If the dealers and repair shops (at least where I live) didn't have a reputation for ripping people off, then more people like myself would do the recommended maintenance. I've had my vehicle in on two seperate occasions to "rotate the tires" and found out that they never rotated them at all. I feel like an idiot marking my tires before I bring the vehicle in, but what else can I do? Oh, and I had to take the Isuzu dealer to court to get my vehicle back after I took it in to "replace the O2 sensor". He ripped half my manifold out removing the sensor and then refused to give me back my vehicle unless I payed $300. for a new manifold. Oh, and I won in small claims court.

When I lived up north, I did have a dealer and also a small repair shop I trusted and had the maintenance done, but it seems that they're all rip-offs here in Florida.

Sorry for the long reply, just venting I guess.