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Hyundai Azera Noises

azera_06azera_06 Posts: 15
My 2006 Azera (powder white) Limited Edition has 7500 miles on it, and just recently I've detected a squeaky noise, which seems to be coming from the cowl area, right where the windshield lays against the dash. The noise isn't constant, it comes and goes. Anyone else out there hearing what I'm hearing?

Comments

  • azera_06azera_06 Posts: 15
    anyone?
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Posts: 202
    My 06 Azera has almost 19,000 miles on it and I have encountered no noises inside. Sounds like you might have an isolated problem. I'd take it back to the dealer and describe the noise and it's location in detail. Maybe it's even worth taking a small recorder with you in the car to capture the noise. I won't even try to guess what it is.
  • azera_06azera_06 Posts: 15
    Appreciate the reply pahefner01. I have a service appointment scheduled for Thursday, April 26th. The noise sounds like two surfaces rubbing together, and seems to be coming from the area right where the windshield sets on the dash. It comes and goes too, really irritating Hopefully the service technician will be able to isolate the origin and fix it. I'll be sure to post the results of my visit.

    Take care, ;)
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Posts: 1,190
    Do you get noise with radio both on and off?
    Do you get noise with AC both on and off?
  • azera_06azera_06 Posts: 15
    Do you get noise with radio both on and off? yes
    Do you get noise with AC both on and off? yes
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    Anybody out there with an Azera with high miles ( over 30k or 40K )? I'm curious to see how it's holding up per squeaks, rattles, etc. as miles get higher. We only have 6K and it's still superquiet.
  • wardswards Posts: 17
    The only squeak I get is from the center consol and only once in awhile . 28000 km's and still the quietest car I've owned. Wards.
  • azera_06azera_06 Posts: 15
    Wouldn't you know, the squeaking noise decided that it wasn't going to squeak today. Consequently the Hyundai Service Technician couldn't isolate the noise. However, he made some adjustments. Meantime, I'll have to wait and listen for the noise to return. ;)
  • kevin74kevin74 Posts: 3
    also some dirty in radiator inside. it looks engine oil slurry. you can see that if you opne cap.

    terrible problem.....
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Regarding the engine oil issue, let's continue here kevin74, "Hyundai Azera 2006" #3778, 28 Apr 2007 12:08 am since that really isn't related to Azera noises.
  • I have a 06 Azera. And it has 21k on it. Every morning when I drive it out and on the road for about 40 seconds. I feel a tiny vibration on gas paddle and tiny sound like some air-gate/valve being opened. Is that similar? Does this matters? Once everyday in the morning.
  • Don't you just hate that when a car won't do what it was doing when you take it to the dealer. That's why I suggested taping it, although in a moving auto that might be hard to do. Maybe a camcorder?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Taping it is worth a try (if it can be done safely of course), but it could still be that the noise can't be tracked down and fixed unless it is occurring right in front of the service tech. A tape could convince the tech that it's occurring, but I'm not sure the cause could be isolated from a tape alone.
  • :sick: I have a similar problem with my 2007 Azera. Here is the text of the problem as I posted on another Hyundai.forum. You are not alone. I love(d) my car otherwise:

    Anyone have an issue with a squeaking noise coming from the dashboard? It sounds like it's coming from where the windshield meets the dash. The sqeak only happens when I come to a stop and as soon as I begin to accelerate. I don't hear it while driving. If you have ever heard an old car that has a body which is beginning to "flex", you'll know what it sound is like. Kind of like a "creaking around the joints". It certainly does not impart a comforting impression of solidity or safety by the occupants.

    So I took my '07 Azera to the dealer on November 19th for an oil change, to fix a sticky cupholder cover, and the noise in the dash. Haven't gotten it back since.

    At first the dealer thought it was the dash itself so they took that apart, put in some felt but found the sqeak was still there after putting the dash back together again.

    They called to tell me that upon closer inspection, they found that the sqeak was coming from a bad weld at the base of the "A" pillar and that they were going to send it to their body shop for repair. It's been two weeks now and I haven't heard back from them. Nor have my messages been returned by the service advisor.

    I'm beginning to get concerned. Luckily, I have another car to drive but I really miss my Azzy and am wondering if it is a suspension/subframe issue and if it is serious. I been able to live with the irritating plastic compression noise when I place my arm on the center console but this sqeak is driving me nuts. I love the car and want nothing more than for it to be fixed.

    Any ideas?
  • hjc1hjc1 Posts: 183
    I'm surprised that your dealer did not supply a no charge loaner...my dealer does.
    You sure are a patient man. If it was my car I wouldn't call I'd be down their talking to the General Manager
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Posts: 1,190
    I did not read that he wasn't offered a loaner by dealer.
  • Good point. You know what, I didn't even ask if I could get a loaner! I dropped it off at 7:30 in the morning thinking that I would get it back that afternoon so I rode my bike home (I only live about three miles from the dealership).

    At this juncture, not having a loaner might help my case if I have to go to arbitration re: Lemon Law.

    Stay tuned.....
  • Got a call from the dealer today. They confirmed once again that it is a bad weld where the A pillar meets the firewall. Because they are not able to fix it at their body shop, they are sending it to another body shop (!) for repair and should have better news for me by the end of the week.

    I hope it doesn't make more noise after they fix it and put averything back together again. The car is so quiet I'll hear everything.
  • cwj3620cwj3620 Posts: 14
    Whenever I slam my trunk OR slam my drivers side rear door I can hear a rattle which sounds like a loose thin piece of metal. The noise is coming from the drivers side of center and from under the trunk between the bumper maybe. I have had my wife slam the trunk with my head under the rear end but can't seem to find the source, but it is there. The other forum (Hyundai-Forums.com) have a Post going about this. Some can hear it at low speed going over a bump, I can't. Has anyone had this experience? Check it out.

    CJ
  • hjc1hjc1 Posts: 183
    Check to lic. plate bracket on the trunk. I had a similar problem on my XG350
    I had to put a small soft rubber bumber behind the plate. My 07 Azera is dead quiet.............
  • grayfoxgrayfox Posts: 166
    My '06 has the same problem as your XG350. What did they change the '07s?
  • hjc1hjc1 Posts: 183
    Hi Grayfox
    I have no idea what if any changes were made. If yours make noise try the rubber or felt idea. Place behind lic. plate. Walmart has all kinds pads located in the hardware dept.
  • cwj3620cwj3620 Posts: 14
    The noise I have is definitely not from the license plate area at all, it is coming from underneath the trunk area
    CJ
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Posts: 1,190
    RE:25
    Have you checked to be certain that the spare tire and tools are properly secured?
  • cwj3620cwj3620 Posts: 14
    YES, there is absolutely no noise from within the trunk the sound is emulating from under the trunk, possibly between the trunk body and the bumper. Read the posts at Hyundai-Forums.com; "Azera": "Rattle in Rear".

    CJ
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    OK, I finally went and listened for the "trunk area rattle" and I do hear one when any of the doors are firmly closed.

    But if I first open the trunk lid, I get no rattle from within. My best guess is that the fuzzy lid cover (which feels rather flexible and does make a little noise when I push on it) is the culprit, and that when the trunk lid is up and somewhat isolated from the body by the hinge support only, the liner doesn't quite get the movement necessary for it to make that little bit of noise...
  • Was the noise intermittent, and was it more apt to occur during colder weather? I'm beginning to think my dealer thinks I'm nuts as the problem happens so intermittently. The squeaky noise seems to be originating from the front driver side, i.e., where the dash meets the windshield. Every so often, I'll hear a rather loud crack, sort of like a stone hitting the windshield. Given your diagnosis, its as if the cracking noise is related to shifting of the the pillar, as was your problem diagnosed. Albeit, the cracking noise is very infrequent, it's the illusive squeaky noise that is driving me nuts. And again, the squeak seems to only occur in the 20-25 degree outside temp range. Has Hyundai documented your issue as an isolated incident, or a pervasive problem?
  • jim101jim101 Posts: 252
    2006 Limited, Ultimate Package, 19K, 23 months old

    Shock noise, replaced, end of noise

    Rear screen started to sag on upper right side and would hit window when going over a bump, one heck of a thump.

    The rear base speaker has had a rattle from day one if the volume was over 6

    To fix rear screen requires a lot of patience because to get to the screen assembly you need to remove,
    1. the negative battery cable
    2. the trunk cover piece just behind the rear seat 2 philips screws when the seat tops are folded down
    3. the lower rear seat, remove 2 bolts that are under the cover you just removed, use clean ratchet with extension between lower and upper cushion, push in tabs in front of seat near carpet and remove, an extra set of hands works well
    4. both sides of the seat back near the doors, 1 bolt each on bottom, slide piece up and out, disconnect the air bag connector and slip seatbelt through the slit on the bracket
    5. the back of the rear seat, 2 bolts in center (1 in each seat section) and the 2 bolts on either side that hold the side of the seat back
    6. the bolts that hold seat belts to the floor
    7. snap out (I used my finger nail) the round plastic symbol (attached to the frame with a small wire) on the frame around the small rear side window on both sides and remove the torx bolt, the piece then has only one pressure snap holding each side
    8. the rear frame on either side next to the package tray that goes to the back window
    9. 4 screws on the back of the seat that hold the package tray
    10. the package tray, two snap clips on either side, takes some patience as getting them to release is not real easy
    11. the package tray behind the screen, four snap clips, this one is a little tricky but it does come out, disconnect connector for rear brake light
    12. 4 bolts that hold the screen assembly (2 in front and 2 behind), disconnect connector

    well that covers the removal, good job

    Typically the aircraft nut holding the right side has backed off and needs to be re tightened. Remove the 2 small screws holding the plastic end cover and remove.
    Using 2 open end metric wrenches, 1 open fits into the assembly and the other is used to tighten the exposed nut until quite snug

    Replace the assembly in reverse of removal

    Temporarily put the negative battery cable back on, operate screen to make sure it fits snugly to the top of the rear window when up

    Now is the time to fix that rear speaker, remove bolts and carefully remove speaker and disconnect the connector
    Place several pieces of sponge tape around the speaker frame (I used double sided but only took the cover off one side of the tape) without covering the mounting holes, replace speaker, snug bolts a little at a time until you are happy with the tightness, remember if you leave it to loose you get to do all this again to get back to the bolts, ugh...

    If your happy, disconnect the negative terminal and replace all the stuff in reverse order

    The speaker rattle is gone, the window screen does not thump against the window, ye-ha

    Now, you could take it to the dealer and have them do the work, my bet is they would forget the speaker issue and write it off as normal.

    Good luck to all, I'm placing my order for the Genesis this week
  • dborthdborth Posts: 474
    re # 30: I'm placing my order for the Genesis this week

    Let us know how that goes, and if the dealer is even in the Genesis loop.

    Congratulations, you will no doubt have one of the first off the ship.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Posts: 1,190
    RE: 30
    This tedious job was performed twice by dealer, under warranty.
    On each occasion they replaced sagging sun shade with a new unit.
    It is now working fine.
    Why would you want to go through the labor of taking apart car and not replacing the shade with a new one?
    If you are concerned about the speaker mount modification, do it as the tech is replacing the sun shade.
  • jim101jim101 Posts: 252
    I'm an efficiency engineer and often want to see how something was engineered and if it could have been more user friendly. In this case a modification to the package tray would reduce this to removal of a much smaller piece of package tray from the front of the screen area, the piece behind the screen and then removal of the screen.
    Basically current design is not ideal, all of this stuff needs to be removed to replace the third stoplight.
    It also allowed me to fix the speaker.

    Replacing the whole unit is not cost effective if by design the problem can be corrected at the manufacturer.

    And, our local dealer just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling due to some poor service in years past.
  • My brand-new 07 Azera has an intermittent rattle (small-ish but annoying) from the center/top dash area. My guess is that it is in the center speaker, because it seems to stop if you press down on it.

    Worse is the rattle from the rear package-shelf area. It is also intermittent, and sounds like metal-on-metal. You can hear it clearly every time you slam a rear door, as well. My guess is if I removed the trunk dress-up cladding from the area of the trunk-lid hinges and had someone keep slamming the door while I lay in the trunk, I could locate and do something about the rattle myself. However, I'm afraid that I would someone damage the clips holding up the cladding (not knowing anything about how to go about it) and wind up with sagging cladding as a reward for my efforts.

    Love the car, but am kind of p.o.'d about this.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
  • Your post came up when I posted the reply (to a different post) below [I am new at this]. It sounds like you may know exactly what I should do. Any suggestions?

    Here's the post:

    My brand-new 07 Azera has an intermittent rattle (small-ish but annoying) from the center/top dash area. My guess is that it is in the center speaker, because it seems to stop if you press down on it.

    Worse is the rattle from the rear package-shelf area. It is also intermittent, and sounds like metal-on-metal. You can hear it clearly every time you slam a rear door, as well. My guess is if I removed the trunk dress-up cladding from the area of the trunk-lid hinges and had someone keep slamming the door while I lay in the trunk, I could locate and do something about the rattle myself. However, I'm afraid that I would someone damage the clips holding up the cladding (not knowing anything about how to go about it) and wind up with sagging cladding as a reward for my efforts.

    Love the car, but am kind of p.o.'d about this.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
  • pcunniffpcunniff Posts: 11
    Just read your post, and would like to ask you to clarify something for me (a non-techie/dependent-on-dealer-service guy). This rattle that happens intermittently (I think the colder it gets the worse it gets) when you slam a rear door and/or go over a bump is (we think) a loose rear center speaker mounting? If so, can you condense the fix into a few very brief, "dumb-dealer-proof" sentences so that I can furnish the dealer with instructions the next time it goes in for service? Thanks.
  • pcunniffpcunniff Posts: 11
    The owner's manual for both my 07 Azera Limited and a more-or-less base 08 Kia Sedona which I rented recently clearly state that when you put the transmission in reverse the side-view mirrors are supposed to automatically tilt down for a better view of the ground behind you (just as they do in my wife's SRX). So, it's clearly a standard Hyundai feature. However, neither car's mirrors would actually does anything of the sort, no matter where I positioned the mirror-adjust selector switch.

    My Hyundai dealer has no clue that the feature is even supposed to be on the car, and claimed that they cannot do anything about it.

    Anyone have any clues?
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    Not an option on the US version of any Azerea's yet. You'll probably find a few items or options listed in the manual that are only available outside the US.
  • iriegirliriegirl Posts: 4
    I have the same problem on my dash and have taken it to 2 different dealers. One said it's the foam rubbing against the plastic, which is then rubbing against the windshield. The noise tends to get louder the more I drive it and/or the warmer it gets.

    He also said that the only "possible" solution would be to completely replace the dash pad, which meant taking out the entire dash assembly. I'm just under my 1-year/12,000 mile warranty and it would be now or never. Even if I did replace it all, there's a chance one can open themselves up to more noises, since it's reinstalled by tech guys and not at the factory. Apparently there are more than 300 screws in the dash.

    So I took it to another dealer for a 2nd opinion. He basically said the same thing. My noise is so loud sometimes that I need to actually turn on the radio to drown it out. Not SO horrible with XM and all, but I don't want to always have my radio on.

    I decided to choose my battles carefully and hope that over time the squeaks actually wear themselves out by rubbing for so long.

    If you find ANYTHING out, I'm all ears.
  • pcunniffpcunniff Posts: 11
    Liberty Hyundai of Mahwah, NJ successfully eliminated this rattle (which has been present in my 2007 Azera Limited since I bought it, growing gradually worse and worse, less so in hot weather, worst of all in cold) during a warranty visit. They diagnosed the problem as a loose drain tube for the sunroof and re-secured it. Voila: the rattle is gone.

    Now, if they could just do the same for the creaking from the front center speaker grille....
  • r7nr7n Posts: 5
    My 07 Azera Limited now has 61,000 miles on the odo. I've had the strut noise, headlight dimming problem and the cracked dash pad. Now for a new problem that I have not been able to find on the Azera forum.

    About two months ago a plastic panel on the left side of the under carriage cracked around the supporting studs on the front of the panel. This allowed the front of the panel to drop to the pavement at 70MPH. That will wake you up. I pulled over and managed to push the panel back into place and it held until I got home. I installed large washers over the cracked plastic and re installed the nuts. Looking over the panel it seems that Hyundai may have not used large enough washers on the panel; and there are definitely not enough of them.

    Last week the right side plastic panel on the under carriage did the same thing. This time I was on a road trip to my grand daughters wedding in Texas City. I was unable to get the panel to stay up while working on the side of a major 4 lane highway, in a rural area. I let it drag until I reached the nearest shop, which happened to be a Jeep dealership about 5 miles away. They immediately put the car on a lift and removed the front half of the plastic panel. Once again the plastic had cracked around the supporting studs and nuts. The back half was still securely attached. The Jeep dealership had me on the road again in less than 15 minutes and no charge for the service. They also inspected the under side of the car to insure it was safe to drive.

    Both of my panels failed at 70MPH. At lower speeds the panels would rise up so they would not drag. At higher speeds the air flow under the car would catch the panel and force it to the pavement - hey it was an air scoop. I believe that in slower city driving I heard the right panel "chattering" on the under carriage the week before it dropped. Now that half of the panel is gone - so is the chattering noise.

    I believe that the cause of the broken panels is a design flaw for the supporting hardware and a failure to adequately reinforce the panels in areas of high stress (around the holes). I suppose road trash, air buffeting and water pounding on them for 60K miles could have an adverse affect on them over time.

    I'm not exactly sure of the true purpose of the panels, but I feel like they are only there to improve aerodynamics - they are not covering anything vital. I'm leaning toward removing them altogether, but will consult with my dealer before doing so.

    Have others had the same problem? Oh No - it happened after bumper to bumper warranty ran oh.....shucks...
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    I had the same exact thing happen on my '06 Azera with 32K miles - right side. Pulled over, pushed it up, then kept it under 45MPH and it stayed in place.

    I took it in and they repaired it by installing larger washers. While the car was in service I visited with my salesrep ( also a friend outside the dealership ) who told me " yeah, it's a common problem, and they sometimes replace the entire shield if they have one in stock ". In my case they didn't have one in stock, but charged me $25 for the larger washers.

    For this and for numerous other items that I know are common problems ( chipped steering wheel, suspension issues, etc. ), and which Hyundai will not repair under warranty - I will not purchase another Hyundai product. If they are this nickel-dime on the small stuff, can one really expect them to replace an engine or tranny at 95K miles?
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    should have been under the 5yr/50kmile warranty....?????
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    Dream on. They claimed I must have hit some road debris. Even if I did, with proper design it should not have happened. They seem to always come up with an excuse why it isn't covered.

    When I requested warranty repair/replacement of the chipped steering wheel, they claimed we scratched it with ring or keys. We drove a Jag for 3 years and never had a problem with its wood steering wheel. I saw an '11 Azera in the showroom and noted it no longer has the " wood " steering wheel. Too many complaints? Our wheel now looks " factory new ( LOL ) " thanks to custom steering wheel chip filler: finger nail polish
  • tinydog1tinydog1 Posts: 83
    edited October 2010
    Happened to me too, on a Friday evening, going out of town about 6 months ago. We were about 14 miles away from home, traveling at 75mph when we hear a faint scraping sound. We pulled over in rush hour traffic to check and found the large panel under the right side dragging on the ground. The dealer picked up the car and replaced the panels under warranty. My Azera is a 2006 and this happened with about 25K on it. I had my dash replaced 3 weeks ago due to cracking, also under warranty and valve cover gaskets due to seepage ( this was probably caused by hardening of the gasket material due to the car not being run very often). Had steering wheel replaced 2 years ago for chipping also covered, however, I think I was responsible for the chip, problem has not recurred.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    as you mentioned "wood"
  • Just had this happen on the turnpike. Need to run to HD for nuts etc... do you happen to recall the size of the bolt?
  • Just got a 2006 Azera Limited, 67K miles flat.

    1st night taking it for a cruise, going EAST down the highway at 85-90 was fine, in fact, very fun in such a quick little car. I love the Azera it's zippy and fast as hell.

    We drove about an hour out of town to a small turnaround area that was dirtt and bumpy. bumped around a little bit nothing sounded like it dragged while turning around in the dirt.

    My girl took over for the drive back, and around 75-80mph we got the front lower right bumper drag sound. I thought we had bumped a piece of the plastic undercarriage on the dirt and it was rubbing the wheel or something.

    Now i understand it must have certainly been the bumper drag issue due to small washers.

    Best way to fix this on my own? Quick and easy?

    Also the cap on the rear passenger side door handle came off which is very common on this year and model apparently. Anything I can put on there temporarily to keep the handle from disassembling?
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