Chrysler Cirrus Starting/Stalling Problems

pumpkin34

I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus and it won't start. It's spinning but won't crank. I have been told that I need to replace the coil pack but when i call to price one they say that car have a distributor. I was wanting to know if it have a coil pack or a distributor?

robinhen2

We have a '97 Cirrus. It has been a great car, (220,000 miles as of today). The 1st fact which you need is your engine type - is it a 4-cylinder or a 6-cylinder? I have a '97 with the 6. THE 6 HAS A DISTRIBUTOR. Also important: the Haynes repair manual from Autozone is money well spent.

jafender

:mad: i have a 98 cirrus LXi and it has 186k miles, it has been running fine, except for the last few months... it would randomly die on me, i hd replaced the fuel pump filter and all the relays, and finaly i had a friend with an expencive diag comp come help me see what was wrong, and it threw a code- the crankshaft sensor had malfunctioned... but with the v-6 the camshaft sensor should have picked up the slack, however it was tripping my ASD, and thus killing my injection, so if you run into this problem- get a good service manual ($90) and dont go cheap with the diag equip. it will save you a lot of hastle in the long run- if you have a friend that has a good computer diag unit ask if they would diag it for you- i had gotten the car for free, and have put a relitively small amount of $$$ into it as others have, but i am on a seriously tight budget, (over $250 for the fuel pump and filter, $20 for new relays, $160 for a cruddy diag computer, $90 for the service manual) i have so far done all the work myself which has helped keep the costs down... near tears of frustration many times... but the car is a good vehicle i had just replaced the wrong parts...

rgorsky

My 95 Cirrus engine dies either while driving or in park, no warning just shuts down. Sometimes it will start right back up, other times could take a day.
I have also had the car shift into 1st gear while driving, cannot shift out unless I turn off and restart.
Replaced fuel filter, pump and distributor and did not help.
Any suggestions - PLEASE!!!

rgorsky

A little confused by message, having similar problem, car dies whenever sometimes starts right away other times it takes 5 min to a day. Replaced fuel filter and pump and distributor - no help. Car also will down shift into 1st gear, not frequently, need to turn off and restart to work properly.
Any suggestions, have over $600 in repairs already.

Thanks
Rick

jafender

i havent run into that problem on my car, and my issue was never solved in 5 min, or even a day... but it sounds like the fuel stops going into the engine or its not sparking... i suggest that you get the service manual from Chrysler and look up the diag for the fuel system. i dfinally had to dish oiut the $90 for the book but it was really worth it... a specific chiltons or haynes manuals will generally suffice... they will telll you how to diag/troubleshoot your issues with the starting/dieing... as for the transmissions i have heard that they are very fragile and that the maintanince should be done regularly... im not an expert but looking to help people not go broke lke i did...
sorry i couldnt be of more help...

jafender

sondree

Have you been able to get any more answers to your car problem. I have a 95 as well and I've recently ran into similar problems. My car will start, but up until 40 mph it's been choking like it's going to stall out on me. I've had three different mechanics look at it and since the diagnostic tests aren't returning any codes, they don't know what to do. IF ANYONE CAN HELP, PLEASE DO! I had my distributor and cap changed out last year, I'm not sure of the brand so I wonder if it has to do with the recall on the Cirrus and I also had the fuel pump, etc done last year (in the spring time I believe.) The day this all started I lost the power to my radio and clock light. I also was experiencing my dashboard lights going out, but I've heard mixed reviews about that even having to do with the larger problem at hand. The car only has 60 thousand miles on it, it'll be a shame if all the car experts of the world are stumped by this car.

cyoakum

I recently bought a used 97 Cirrus. Car dies while driving and sitting at stop light, not all the time but getting worse. Check Engine light on and went to Auto Zone and code came up Intake Air Sensor, replaced that. Light still on, ran again, Mass Air Flow Sensor, didn't do anything about that but decided to run codes again, now fan relay malfunctioning, voltage low. Possible cause ECM, and several other things. Was getting sick of all the different readings. In the mean time I decided I would take it to Pep Boys for computer diagnostic. Fan relay showed up, abieant temp and motor temp both ran up to 150 degrees and motor shut off. Was told by Pep Boys that when I replaced the IAP that the computer should have been flashed (reset). Well they said they couldnt reset it that I needed to take it to the Chrysler dealer. After diagnostic from them and fixing several things bill ran $217. So when I paid and left and went to Chrysler dealer they now want me to put it on their diagnositc computer and a flash will cost $99 and the diagnostics $99. Then the service mgr. said it doesn't need to be reset. So now Im at a loss as to what to do, especially since I can't fork over $$$ after $$$ and still not get fixed. If I took the car back to car lot would lose my down payment, not sure if I should continue to spend money or just soak up my loss of the $700 total Ive spent on it and live iwth it. Any ideas?

:mad: :sick: :lemon: :lemon:

eriefish

Got my Cirrus from an auction resently so I don't know its history but I've got the same problem you do. Car had flucuation in RPM periodicly when driving or at idle but there was no service engine light until 1 day it had a fluctuation and stalled will driving and after that episode the perverbial light came on. There's something very strainge going on because when the flucuation happens (which could be at first start or after being driven for a while) the check engine light will go off for a second and then come back on. The kicker is the other night when stuck in traffic it happened again and the the check battery light came on. There has been a increase in the episodes of flucuating RPMs and get this, now when it happens not only will the check engine light go off the check battery light will go off and the both come back on. That's not all....now the RPMs constantly flucuate when at idle.
AutoZone did a ckeck and there are 4 codes, p1493 battery tempature sensor (never heard of such), p0117 engine coolant temp sensor, p0112 intake air temp sensor (I too replaced it and the code won't clear) and p1496 5 volt supply voltage low condition which references the input sensors of the onboard computer. I really like the car other than this and wouldn't mind putting a little $ into it since it only has 79500 miles on it but I want to put only what's needed. Any advise would really help!!! p.s. also the coolant sensor or relay swith is coded and my fan constantly runs and my cage has malfuncytioned. I hope the computer hasn't went bad!!

eriefish

cyoakum, i went to firestone where i've been doing business for a while and they did a diagnosis (99.00) and found out that all the codes are all inline with each other and that the is a short somewhere in the wiring harness and it could be a pinched wire. Norm said that all of the sensors are working which indicates current is getting to them but that the return notice to the computer is not being received therefore the light remains on and the codes keep setting immediately after they are reset. He pulled all of the wiring diagrams and traced the patterns to find out what he did but would need to pull out the harness and try to pattern it and find the short and that could take from 3-6 hours (83.00hr) depending on how fast he can find it. Also, there is more than a 50-50 chance that now that there are multiple codes that portion of the computer that handles these sensors may of been fried. At looking at what Norm was telling and showing me I tend to believe him because it looks like someone previously tried to locate the problem (hire harness cut open, wire coating peeled in some places) but they couldn't. For me i'm going to the junkyard to find what looks like a good wiring harnes as the dealer wants to charge 800.00 for it and if that resolves the problem good and if i need the computer i may go the same rount or maybe get it from autozone for 300.00. All your symptomes and mine appear to be closely related although my MAS is not flashing it is in line with the rest. If you find anything out please let me know and I will do the same.

fsualumni93

this car stalls for any or no reason. it has stalled while on the highway and while parked in the driveway. sometimes it runs for hours, other times only minutes. the fuel filter has been changed, the throttle position indicator has been changed, the engine computer has been changed, plug wires, spark plugs, egr valve, and countless other items. former blogs suggest that the problem may be related to MAF or O2 sensor. it has been brought to my attention that this model cirrus does not have a mass air flow sensor. I have bought replacement O2 sensors for it, but the dude at the auto parts store said he doubts very much that this will fix the problem. hopefully someone in your circles can help out with this. i am at wit's end. a check engine light or error code would help, but no such luck, as no lights come on.

loyalkelly6

i have a six cylinder chrysler cirrus that has around 150,000 km on it and its been running great up until about 2 months ago. About every three weeks or so, the car battery wears out without leaving the lights on or draining the battery at all, ive taken it to a mechanic and they just assume that the lights were left on. nobody can seem to figure anything out. can anybody help?

cyoakum

Join the crowd. I have a 97 Cirrus that is doing the exact same thing and changed all sorts of sensors. Finally I took it to a repairman and he has said its the ECM (computer), I have not replaced it yet, but will be doing so very very soon. The Chrysler dealer wants $388 for one and a local parts place wants $170. Other than that the car runs great, I just hate to replace the ECM and it not be the problem. That scares me since, I already had it at one repairman and they said they changed the ECM 2 different times, but.....they were out of cars from a junk yard too. If you figure it out let me know please, I hate to pay for the new computer when it could possibly not be it. But the last guy did put it on the diagnostics machine twice...Good luck.....I would love to hear from anyone else out there that might have had the same problem too.

fsualumni93

we finally got this problem fixed. We had changed out the ECM, and it was not the issue. Spent 125.00 for no reason!!!. That brought the total tally up to over 1000.00. What we discovered was the Cam Shaft sensor had gone bad. That part cost 70.00 at AutoZone. When installed, the stalling issue was resolved (or so it seems at this point). We have run the car for a total of about 3 hours with no problem. Before, it was stalling within about 15 to 20 minutes.

aseel513

What is the ASD? I have a 98 (6 cylinder) and it's been doing everything mentioned on this site and then some. I've replaced the throttle position and oxygen sensors as well as idle air valve and now the check engine light is back on! I'm willing to replace camshaft/crankshaft, but I need to know what the ASD is. Thanks for posting this information as I am ready to drive this car off of a cliff!

cyoakum

Cliff heck, we need Death Valley high steep mtns........I wish just one time I could have a car that is not such a pain in the rear.....please if you fix it let me know what you did. :lemon:

chrysler_1998

If it's a V6 they don't have a coil pack, it only has a distributor which will run you about $225.00 at Advanced Auto. I think personally it's the timing belt, i would have that checked.

bajhome

Please confirm the Cam Shaft was the solution to your stalling problems. I am having the same problem. Also, I am hearing a pop coming from underneath the car every time I turn it off. It sounds like something underneath has gotten too hot and the noise is the metal expanding. Any suggestions?

spencers225

I have a 2000 chrysler cirrus lxi 2.5L 6cyl. I was driving on the freeway yesterday at about 70 mph in Las Vegas traffic when out of the blue the engine on the car died. I (fortunately) was able to pull over to the side of the road, which was not an easy task as I was coasting. I waited for a few min and attempted to restart the car, but when I turn the key the engine will crank it just wont turn over. I finally had to have the car towed back to my house. It has been almost 24 hrs since this happened and the car still wont start. There was no warning and the car didn't sputter or make any sounds that something might possibly be wrong it just died. I'm so confused as to what could possibly have cause this. If there is anyone out there that might know what would have cause this to happen please let me know. As are a lot of people right now I am on a very tight budget so if this is something that I can fix myself then I would like to try to go that route first before I spend hundreds of dollars on taking the car to a repair shop here, not to mention it is very hard to find an honest repair shop in the Las Vegas Valley. I hope someone out there reads this and can offer me some advise as to what to do. :confuse:

wallymaven

I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus lxi which died suddenly on my way to work this week.
I have checked the coil and distributor with an ohmmeter and everything checks out. I can hear the fuel pump kick in when I turn on the ignition key, and have tested absolutely everything with no spark yet to the engine. 266 000 kms, no problems whatsoever and now sudden death. I will replace a few things in an effort to resolve this issue and post if anything works.

nuts,
- Wally

spencers225

I had a mobile mechanic come out to my house and he replaced the curcuit that the fuel pump relay fuse plugs into. this seemed to fix the problem, but i was on my way back home from california and the car started blowing fuses left and right. I probably went through over 30 fuses just to get the car back to Las Vegas. It sounds like when the curcuit was wired it wasn't wired correctly, but the guy was just here yesterday and he says everything checks out fine. I would check the fuel pump relay fuse. Your curcuit could have blown just like mine did.

tommy666

Tell me about it. I baught my 95 cheap cuz I was out of work but it's turning into a monry pit. The first time I sent it to a shop right away They said oil was leaking from my spark plugs and causing a conduit for crossfire which destroyed my distributer. I got one from a salvage yard which my shop bench tested a found it was bad. $1,200.00 later new plugs, wires, and gaskets and my car breaks again. I changed gaskets and used dialectric grease done the work myself. Seemed to work for a while but the car died again. I poured 2 gal of water over the hot engine waited 5 minutes and the car started but ran rough at first. Seems to be a heat problem. After further insp. the cooling fans were not coming on. I put in freeon and the fans came on only when AC is on. I changed Coolant sensor and fan work good. The car still stalls. I checked thermostat and water pump, all good. The problem is definately eletrical and I'm guessing sensor so dont go buying computers I'll try cam shaft sensor and will get back to ya. Tommy

wattsgirla

PLEASE HELPOk I have 99' Chrysler cirrus, that i have just replaced the crank shaft position sensor, idle air control, and EGR valve, and its still not fixed. The rpms will go crazy, oil light & cruise control light comes on, and it will stall, but sometimes it will run for and hour or two with no problems but other times its irraitic..I have heard it may be plugs/wires, distubotor cap, coil pack,cam sensor,and battery(just bought a new battery).. Tired of the guessing game.. Ready to junk this POS!!! Any suggestions, would be greatly apprecitated..
2 hours ago - 4 days left to

wattsgirla

Well i took my 99' Chrysler Cirrus to the dealership and found out that the crank postion sensor, was a bad one and that i have oil leaking down my distubutor shaft, replacing that sensor has takin care of some of the problem, but my oil light still comes on along with service engine soon light..taking back to the dealer Monday.. :mad:

wjsandy

1998 Cirrus V6. 48,000 miles. No problems until now. Pulled into garage one night and won't start next day. No Spark. No codes set with test from Actron tester. Check all fuses. All OK. ASD voltage is correct. ASD relay checks OK with ohm meter. Replaced distributer with remanfactured. Still won't start. Testing crankshaft position sensor. 8 volts on unit (Orange wire) but no fluctuating voltage on output of sensor (Grey/Black wire). Bad sensor?? ($72.00 to buy) and look like a real bear to change. Could it be ECM?
Thanks

cirriousissues

Have you checked the fuel pump? (I have a '97 V6 with 77,000 and it went out recently)...

cirriousissues

1997 V6 - 77,000 miles.
It has been stalling mostly when I come up to a light or stop sign, coasting in general.
So far I have replaced:
distributor cap, spark plugs, wires, CAM sensor, Crankshaft Sensor (is that the same?), both belts, MAP sensor, my fuel pump was replace 10 months ago...

What is next? I have heard maybe the idle air flow sensor? I know this is a common problem...has anything helped?

wjsandy

I determined that the ASD relay was not engaging. The relay itself was good. I determined that the terminal 85 (a Dk. Blue /violet wire had the same voltage as terminal 30 the supply. That means that there was not a complete circuit to ground to energize the ASD relay. I pulled the large connector on the top and towards the front of the car on the PCM and found the Dk. Blue/violet wire and cut it about 3 " from the plug. I then grounded the end that goes to the ASD relay. The relay engaged, and I had voltage to the ignition coil primary. Upon cranking I did see several flashes on my spark plug tester, but still will not start. It looks like the PCM is not grounding the ASD relay coil. If the PCM is not supplying a complete circuit for the ASD relay, it's likely not doing other things. Going to order a PCM. Will advise.

sighberlass

we have a 98 cirrus that is just over 2 yrs old now. Its been in the shop more than my driveway. We bought it used from a small garage and for some DUMB reason we keep bringing it to that shop for repairs. It was in the shop 7 times in a yr and a half. The check engine light was on steady for almost a year .. LOL good fn car eh? Anyhow, after changing several sensors and other parts with NO relief ... we finally had a pvt guy with good diagnostics check it out for a few days... replaces a map sensor ( thats what it sounded like he was saying ) its been stall free ( touch wood) for 5 months now. Thats the longest time so far ... sadly.. its in the shop again right now again, for a week again ... the stick shift cable broke, which we think the mechanic broke during one of his repairs and finally just snapped. this is our car from hell and we have now spent more for repairs than what the car cost us. We are in wayyyyyyy too deep to do anything but keep on repairing it, Eventually all the parts will be new anyhow. Anyhow... check that map sensor as a possible cure to the stalling. Its really scarey to have it stall while moving.

tleehamp065

i'd got this 96 cirrus from my brother it has a problem it seems to to be dying when i'm sitting at stop lights check the fuel pump it o.k had the the map sensor my brother had it tune up not sure if he change the disturbutor or not it seems to do it more while it cold or something like that sometimes it feels like it kinda hestitates while driving awhile so if anybody got any ideas what to do next like to hear from you

wattsgirla

Ok so the car is still at a Chrysler mechanic.. It now has more problems then before.. It was misfiring on 5 outa six cylinders now its 6 outta 6.. i have replaced the idle air control and egr valve now 2 xs, new distributor, new distributor cap, wires and plugs.. So they called me the other day and ECU (i think thats right) and that it was 1,500.00.. well needless to say i told them i wasnt buying one right now and if they had a way to try it before i buy it to make sure that is it, next day they called said its not it.. their new motive is that somethings wrong with the wireing..I have already spent well over 1200 and replaced parts that didnt need to be replaced. i will let you know as soon as i find anything else out

lostboyajn

I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus with the 2.5L V6. I have had some problems with it. It has been stalling for a while now, as well as the check engine light being on. I was driving it yesterday and it just died while driving 30mph. THe engine died and I coasted it to the side of the road. For the first little bit the gauges stuck at 30mph and 2k rpm. I am a horrible mechanic and am hoping to figure out what the problem is. If anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it.

gbeehler

Came home today and pulled into the garage to clean out the interior. Was parked for mabe an hour. Went to move the car out and it will not start. At first it started but seemed to be starved for fuel, Now it will turn over forever but will not fire. Any ideas?

mnman42

I read in one of your posts that you had a cirrus that was blowing a number of fuses. The Fuel pump fuse. I have a 99 cirrus which is blowing a 20 amp fuse that is labeled Fuel and Ignition.

Just curious if you ever resolved what was making your blow?

Mine had been pretty intermittent. it had blown three times in 7 months, but then blew three in one days with very little car movement between them. I suspect something is causing and intermittent short but I'm not sure where to look first.

I have been fortunate in that I had installed a remote car starter which ends up by passing the blown fuse as long as I but the key into the on position first. This allows me to move the car or drive a short distance when it has happened. But I can't use the brake or the auto start shuts off. Any input would be appreciated.

aseel513

Ok- I think I've got it- my check engine light had been on for months and my car always stalled. I changed my EGR valve and MAP sensor, as I had the codes "Bank 1 & 2- system too lean" and "manufacter controlled fuel and air metering". Anyway, the shop said it was my EGR valve that was bad, but in reading other posts, it didn't help when other people changed their EGR valve. So, I bought a new EGR valve AND a MAP sensor (I read this helped someone else)and had them both replaced. So far so good!!!! It's been since Wednesday (2/24) and my engine light is off and she no longer cuts off (knock on wood). Give it a try and I'll keep ya'll posted! :surprise:

mth321

2000 2.4 DOHC Cirrus. The other night it started running rough. Acted like bad fuel(water) or bad fuel pump. It then shut down wouldn't run. Left sit over night in parking lot. Came back next morning. Started up and would run for a minute and a half, run rough again and shut down. Took home. No check engine light. Ran test on fuel pump. Low pressure. Replaced fuel pump, Fuel and filter. Once again would start, run a minute, run rough and shut down. Ran OBD code reader on. Came up code PO340 camshaft sensor error, and a couple transmission codes(PO700 and PO725). Replace cam sensor with new, cleared codes, still no check engine light. Now, would not run at all. With key on, could hear relays for fuel pump and fuel injectors rapidly kicking on and off. Checked for fire at coil pack. No fire. Ran code reader on again, code PO340 again, still no check engine light. Replaced coil, still no fire. Running out of parts to replace, replaced crankshaft sensor, cleared code, and fired right up. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT EVER!

If you have one that starts running rough, shuts down and no check engine light, It appears that would be a good place to start with!

maximum_speed

just like the rest of you guys, my cirrus just stopped on me but more of a different story, it happened when i went to go fill up the tank and the guy filled it up with fuel 87 instead of 89 or 93(which i always get). My car would run for a whole day then decide to shut off, run for another whole day and at the same time shut off again on me while im on the high way or on a main st kind of feels like bad luck. I took it to 3 major shops they put the diagnostics to it no Code Errors and the ran fine just for them but once i would pull off it would die on me. They said most likely it wouldnt be a fuel problem cause 87 wouldnt harm especially chrysler. But i seen a post on here earlier that mabe water can be the cause to the eltrical system??? because my car did start acting up when it was raining up here in boston for the whole week straight.

I just need somthing to start me off because mechanics will get you and i think my problem might be an easy fix, mabe the fuel filter needs to be cleaned , or new fuel pump relay??? somthing plz help :confuse:

chillie799

it will start up but when i shut it off it wont start up until it cools down please help

chillie799

ok i took it to the shop and had the timing belt pully and belt changed and water pump changed and cam sincer changed and i got it home and it worked good for 2 days and then it shut off so i got it back up to the shop and they done a test and it read no bad codes then it shut off the machine so they changed the oxygen sencer and it ran good for a day and did it again and now it will run and as soon as you turn it off it wont start until it kools down it is not over heating when it kools down it starts right up but at night time it runs really good please help me

aseel513

I changed my MAP sensor and my EGR Valve back in March and she hasn't cut off or stalled at all since then. Now I've recently had my distributor and spark plugs replaced. She's running well, but she sputters at take-off. Not sure what that is- was told she's getting too much air, but try the EGR Valve, distributor and MAP sensor- those worked overall for me. Good luck because these cars TRULY suck and are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] and wallet to fix! :sick:

m_davis751

Did you ever find out what was wrong? My car is doing the same thing.

wattsgirla

No unfortunately not, other then it's a POS..lol The Chrysler dealership who I had working on the car just chopped it up as (small engine noise) oh and the Map sensor and egr valve was replaced twice, because they were default, even though they were brand new, the car doesn't stall anymore, nor has erratic behavior, and even though it still say's it's misfiring on multiple cylinders, another mechanic said that if i don't feel it then just ignore it. I wasn't willing to put anymore money in to a car that has almost 200,000 miles, so I am just going to drive it till, i can't go anymore..Good Luck!! Hope you can figure out more than I did..:) :mad: not to mention I have replaced the distributor and cap, plugs, wires, battery, so on and so forth..

carwoes2

Hi there did you get the cirrus figured out? I have a 1996 and have like problems and have spent a small fortune trying to get this car `to start and stay running. please let me know what you found out about the asd.
cheers

angeladp

I have a 95 cirrus that started running really rough and stalling and just died. It would turn over like it wants to start but never would. I had the car towed home and my dad has replaced everything he could think of including the computer. He has only been able to determine that it wont fire but cant find a reason why. He thinks it could be the anti-theft system preventing it from starting. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank U

tommy666

Mine shut down and would not restart 18 months ago. I put in a distributor and it ran awesome. 2 months later it started the stall and restart bit. I dealt with it until winter. It ran great the entire cold season. When temps warmed up the car was back to stalling. I replaced the the cam/crank shaft sensor $70 at autozone. That fixed it! I live in 117*F temps and the car ran great all summer. It has now stalled 5 times in the last 15 days meaning the cam/crank shaft sensor is out again. Not only that but yesterday It stalled again and will not restart. Awesome! This means the distributor is out again. If I don't pawn this car off to an [non-permissible content removed] like myself or the rest of you, I will be buying a distributor and a sensor every summer. I will never be able to let my guard down in this car.

tommy666

I changed the Distributor and the cam shaft sensor. The distributor lasted a year and the position sensor only three months. Your car will break again. This sucks but if its running good its time to let it go.

feliweeks

We need a class action lawsuit against CHYSLER with all these complaint of these cars shutting down in traffic they should have recalled those cars a fix the problem. I alomst got hit by a tractor trailor on the expressway the first time this happen to me with my kids in the car. These cars a crap!
Now my car is stalling again and no mney to fix it OMG!

jay136

I LIKE THE WAY YOUR THINKING .ALL MY PROBLEMS STARTED AFTER I PAID THE CAR OFF SOME YEARS AGO. BUT ILL BE WILLING TO PUT MY HAT IN.

Kirstie_H

While I appreciate the frustration, please note that our Membership Agreement prohibits using the Forums to organize lawsuits. I realize you didn't go that far, but I wanted to mention it before others might have started trying to collect names/contact info.

tommy666

Here's the deal:
If your car stops but will start again change your crank shaft position sensor.
If your car will not start again and your check engin light is on then you need a distributor.
If your car's engin light does not appear when you turn the key to the on position you need a computer. AKA PCM or Most commonly known as ECM.

Crankshaft position sensor sucks to get at. Way down under the distributor. The entire intake must come out. It's only $70 but find yourself a sideshow mechanic coupled with the book($30) and you'll save money.

Before you change the distributor: Pull the cap and check your rotor. Most likeky it's just burned up. Pull it straight out and slip in a new one. ($15)

Distributor is not easy. It's about $120 on eBay. The book tells you two methods. Use the Top Dead Center method by aligning your timing lines. This will remove all doubt. You don't need a shop but buy yourself a backyard mechanic to help. The distributor has a mark that aligns with the rotor. There is a reason for the wierd looking key. The key slops around so put some heavy grease in it to keep it centered.

ECM is super easy. You can do this yourself. Remove the filter portion of the intake. The filter box just pops out. Pull hard it will come. Disconnect Neg and Pos cable. Remone computer cables. 1 screw on each side and it pops straight up. The best thing is that the ECM is only $140 on eBay.

I did all this myself. I've been through it all. There is light at the end of the tunnel. I'll check in if you have questions just post them.

tommy666

I cant spell but my car runs.