Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chrysler Cirrus Starting/Stalling Problems



  • I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus with the 2.5L V6. I have had some problems with it. It has been stalling for a while now, as well as the check engine light being on. I was driving it yesterday and it just died while driving 30mph. THe engine died and I coasted it to the side of the road. For the first little bit the gauges stuck at 30mph and 2k rpm. I am a horrible mechanic and am hoping to figure out what the problem is. If anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it.
  • Came home today and pulled into the garage to clean out the interior. Was parked for mabe an hour. Went to move the car out and it will not start. At first it started but seemed to be starved for fuel, Now it will turn over forever but will not fire. Any ideas?
  • I read in one of your posts that you had a cirrus that was blowing a number of fuses. The Fuel pump fuse. I have a 99 cirrus which is blowing a 20 amp fuse that is labeled Fuel and Ignition.

    Just curious if you ever resolved what was making your blow?

    Mine had been pretty intermittent. it had blown three times in 7 months, but then blew three in one days with very little car movement between them. I suspect something is causing and intermittent short but I'm not sure where to look first.

    I have been fortunate in that I had installed a remote car starter which ends up by passing the blown fuse as long as I but the key into the on position first. This allows me to move the car or drive a short distance when it has happened. But I can't use the brake or the auto start shuts off. Any input would be appreciated.
  • Ok- I think I've got it- my check engine light had been on for months and my car always stalled. I changed my EGR valve and MAP sensor, as I had the codes "Bank 1 & 2- system too lean" and "manufacter controlled fuel and air metering". Anyway, the shop said it was my EGR valve that was bad, but in reading other posts, it didn't help when other people changed their EGR valve. So, I bought a new EGR valve AND a MAP sensor (I read this helped someone else)and had them both replaced. So far so good!!!! It's been since Wednesday (2/24) and my engine light is off and she no longer cuts off (knock on wood). Give it a try and I'll keep ya'll posted! :) :surprise:
  • mth321mth321 Posts: 1
    2000 2.4 DOHC Cirrus. The other night it started running rough. Acted like bad fuel(water) or bad fuel pump. It then shut down wouldn't run. Left sit over night in parking lot. Came back next morning. Started up and would run for a minute and a half, run rough again and shut down. Took home. No check engine light. Ran test on fuel pump. Low pressure. Replaced fuel pump, Fuel and filter. Once again would start, run a minute, run rough and shut down. Ran OBD code reader on. Came up code PO340 camshaft sensor error, and a couple transmission codes(PO700 and PO725). Replace cam sensor with new, cleared codes, still no check engine light. Now, would not run at all. With key on, could hear relays for fuel pump and fuel injectors rapidly kicking on and off. Checked for fire at coil pack. No fire. Ran code reader on again, code PO340 again, still no check engine light. Replaced coil, still no fire. Running out of parts to replace, replaced crankshaft sensor, cleared code, and fired right up. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT EVER!

    If you have one that starts running rough, shuts down and no check engine light, It appears that would be a good place to start with!
  • just like the rest of you guys, my cirrus just stopped on me but more of a different story, it happened when i went to go fill up the tank and the guy filled it up with fuel 87 instead of 89 or 93(which i always get). My car would run for a whole day then decide to shut off, run for another whole day and at the same time shut off again on me while im on the high way or on a main st kind of feels like bad luck. I took it to 3 major shops they put the diagnostics to it no Code Errors and the ran fine just for them but once i would pull off it would die on me. They said most likely it wouldnt be a fuel problem cause 87 wouldnt harm especially chrysler. But i seen a post on here earlier that mabe water can be the cause to the eltrical system??? because my car did start acting up when it was raining up here in boston for the whole week straight.

    I just need somthing to start me off because mechanics will get you and i think my problem might be an easy fix, mabe the fuel filter needs to be cleaned , or new fuel pump relay??? somthing plz help :confuse:
  • chillie799chillie799 Posts: 2
    it will start up but when i shut it off it wont start up until it cools down please help
  • ok i took it to the shop and had the timing belt pully and belt changed and water pump changed and cam sincer changed and i got it home and it worked good for 2 days and then it shut off so i got it back up to the shop and they done a test and it read no bad codes then it shut off the machine so they changed the oxygen sencer and it ran good for a day and did it again and now it will run and as soon as you turn it off it wont start until it kools down it is not over heating when it kools down it starts right up but at night time it runs really good please help me
  • aseel513aseel513 Posts: 3
    I changed my MAP sensor and my EGR Valve back in March and she hasn't cut off or stalled at all since then. Now I've recently had my distributor and spark plugs replaced. She's running well, but she sputters at take-off. Not sure what that is- was told she's getting too much air, but try the EGR Valve, distributor and MAP sensor- those worked overall for me. Good luck because these cars TRULY suck and are a pain in the A$$ and wallet to fix! :sick:
  • Did you ever find out what was wrong? My car is doing the same thing.
  • wattsgirlawattsgirla Posts: 4
    edited June 2010
    No unfortunately not, other then it's a The Chrysler dealership who I had working on the car just chopped it up as (small engine noise) oh and the Map sensor and egr valve was replaced twice, because they were default, even though they were brand new, the car doesn't stall anymore, nor has erratic behavior, and even though it still say's it's misfiring on multiple cylinders, another mechanic said that if i don't feel it then just ignore it. I wasn't willing to put anymore money in to a car that has almost 200,000 miles, so I am just going to drive it till, i can't go anymore..Good Luck!! Hope you can figure out more than I did..:) :mad: not to mention I have replaced the distributor and cap, plugs, wires, battery, so on and so forth..
  • carwoes2carwoes2 Posts: 1
    Hi there did you get the cirrus figured out? I have a 1996 and have like problems and have spent a small fortune trying to get this car `to start and stay running. please let me know what you found out about the asd.
  • angeladpangeladp Posts: 1
    I have a 95 cirrus that started running really rough and stalling and just died. It would turn over like it wants to start but never would. I had the car towed home and my dad has replaced everything he could think of including the computer. He has only been able to determine that it wont fire but cant find a reason why. He thinks it could be the anti-theft system preventing it from starting. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank U
  • Mine shut down and would not restart 18 months ago. I put in a distributor and it ran awesome. 2 months later it started the stall and restart bit. I dealt with it until winter. It ran great the entire cold season. When temps warmed up the car was back to stalling. I replaced the the cam/crank shaft sensor $70 at autozone. That fixed it! I live in 117*F temps and the car ran great all summer. It has now stalled 5 times in the last 15 days meaning the cam/crank shaft sensor is out again. Not only that but yesterday It stalled again and will not restart. Awesome! This means the distributor is out again. If I don't pawn this car off to an [non-permissible content removed] like myself or the rest of you, I will be buying a distributor and a sensor every summer. I will never be able to let my guard down in this car.
  • I changed the Distributor and the cam shaft sensor. The distributor lasted a year and the position sensor only three months. Your car will break again. This sucks but if its running good its time to let it go.
  • We need a class action lawsuit against CHYSLER with all these complaint of these cars shutting down in traffic they should have recalled those cars a fix the problem. I alomst got hit by a tractor trailor on the expressway the first time this happen to me with my kids in the car. These cars a crap!
    Now my car is stalling again and no mney to fix it OMG!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    While I appreciate the frustration, please note that our Membership Agreement prohibits using the Forums to organize lawsuits. I realize you didn't go that far, but I wanted to mention it before others might have started trying to collect names/contact info.


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • Here's the deal:
    If your car stops but will start again change your crank shaft position sensor.
    If your car will not start again and your check engin light is on then you need a distributor.
    If your car's engin light does not appear when you turn the key to the on position you need a computer. AKA PCM or Most commonly known as ECM.

    Crankshaft position sensor sucks to get at. Way down under the distributor. The entire intake must come out. It's only $70 but find yourself a sideshow mechanic coupled with the book($30) and you'll save money.

    Before you change the distributor: Pull the cap and check your rotor. Most likeky it's just burned up. Pull it straight out and slip in a new one. ($15)

    Distributor is not easy. It's about $120 on eBay. The book tells you two methods. Use the Top Dead Center method by aligning your timing lines. This will remove all doubt. You don't need a shop but buy yourself a backyard mechanic to help. The distributor has a mark that aligns with the rotor. There is a reason for the wierd looking key. The key slops around so put some heavy grease in it to keep it centered.

    ECM is super easy. You can do this yourself. Remove the filter portion of the intake. The filter box just pops out. Pull hard it will come. Disconnect Neg and Pos cable. Remone computer cables. 1 screw on each side and it pops straight up. The best thing is that the ECM is only $140 on eBay.

    I did all this myself. I've been through it all. There is light at the end of the tunnel. I'll check in if you have questions just post them.
  • I cant spell but my car runs.
  • tommy666tommy666 Posts: 9
    edited October 2010
    So I just put this new computer (ECM) in my car. It was running great. The first time I locked it and tried to reenter the anti theft comes on? I cannot get it to stop honking and blinking. Somebody said to try the key in the passenger door. Not working. I think my computer is for a later model with keyless entry?
  • You do not mention what year Cirrus you have. I would like to expand on what you have noted, but need to know which year we are referring to first.

    When you say "If your car stops but will start again change your crank shaft position sensor." Are you saying that the car stalls, like when coming to a stop, and then will restart when you crank it over? Know of any test that you can run on the sensor?

    Have you ever experienced a sensation like a momentary power loss, but the engine doesn't stall, only jerks once?

    Any problems with excessive parasitic battery current draw, and the solution?

  • Anyone with a 95 Chrysler cirrus and has stalling problems I have found solution after replacing fuel filter Crankshaft Positioner and some sort of air filter and 2 exams I have found out My cars alternator is to weak! The 95 Chrysler cirrus has so much eletric and it has to have a good battery and a good alternator in it to send enough voltage to certain parts of car 4 example my cars fan wasn't getting enough voltage so evreytime car fan turned on car stalled afterward because it took all that voltage alltenators are 130 at shops like Kragen & Autozone if you bring old one in
  • I have a 95 Chrysler Cirrus LXI v6 and It has had stalling problems your all having I have had 3 exams I have a new crankshaft positioner air positioner thing and other parts youve all suggested nothing fixed it but I did after much research and asking many questions the 95 chrysler cirrus is a giant electric circuit it needs major voltage I had a bad battery and bad alternator I replaced both of them and the stalling problem gone! The alternator was key to send enough spark basically. Anytime my car fan turned on car would stall and it would turn on idling or at stops because all voltage and spark was going to fan. replace your alternantor and battery if needed people. Alternator's are about 130 at autozone, kragen, orileys as long as you bring the old one in
  • Had same prob you did till I put in a new alternator
  • Was having problems starting car when damp outside. Would have to dry/warm with hair dryer for few minutes and it would start. Read codes at that time and I was getting Random/Multiple Misfire codes and Misfire on Cylinders 1, 3, & 5 codes (forget the actual code numbers.). Eventually it wouldn't start even with hair dryer.

    So I decided to change spark plugs and wires. Checked and double-checked plug gaps. Didn't solve my problem, but did get rid of misfire error codes. Next I decided it must be moisture getting into distributer cap, so I changed the cap and router. Great!! Solved problem and started right up. Well it ran for a little better then a day, then wouldn't start again.

    I decided to hook code reader up again. This time, no misfire codes. Instead, I have three new codes I didn't have before. They are as follows:

    Code P0123 -
    Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A Circuit High

    Code P0113 -
    Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High

    Code P1698 -
    No CCD/J1850 Message from TCM/PCM

    I double-checked that all the plugs to sensors were connected and snug. Seemed good. I am now at a loss on what to do next and it seems the more I read the more confused I get. Anyone have any ideas, I could use some direction on what to try next. Thanks in advance!!
  • I was driving home, about a 30 minute trip, after having dinner with my very good friend. It was a cold, dark and rainy night, with low visibility. I had no problem seeing that my alternator light was glowing red from my first start-up that night. I had driven up earlier in the day and was pleased with the way she was running, or so I thought. I had just installed a rebuilt ECM and had just located and repaired a short that had kept my odometer display and TCM relay energized causing my battery to drain for the last 4 or 5 years. I thought I was at the end of my woes, now the battery light glared at me, though the headlights illuminated my way down the Bayshore Freeway without nary a flicker. I proceeded confidently for the next 20 minutes or so. As I approached my turnoff to turn south, I stepped on the gas . . . and there was no response! I thought, huh? what now? For the next minute I repeatedly step on the gas pedal and there was nothing, yet I was still rolling at about 50MPH. I moved the gear selector from overdrive into 3rd and I regained operation of the throttle. It is a slight uphill to get onto Hwy 85, and I hoped that the engine would stay running and not strand me on the side of the road on a night like this. I was flying out for 2 weeks the following day and I would have time away to think about what was happening to me now. I do some of my best thinking in the air anyway, so that was indeed a very comforting thought. I left it in drive for several miles, slipped in into OD just to see what would happen, the void returned, stepping on the gas did nothing by increase my terror as the red warning lamp reminded me of the flames that could instantly result from an electrical meltdown, if that was what was happening to me now. Back into 3rd, control again was restored, I was about 5 miles away from home, clenching my teeth all the way. I debated making that one stop to refill the water bottles that I promised my roommate before I left. It was behaving for the most part, with trepidation I switched the ignition off while picturing how or if it would restart. The bottles were loaded into the back seat, I sat for a minute still pondering if it would turn over or not. It cranked at normal speed but did not start immediately, normally after firing, it would immediately stall, and it did. Upon restarting it, I watched with horror as first the tachometer needle dropped to zero, as I started to resume my journey home, I watched as the speedometer and then the coolant temp needle dropped to zero, the alternator light went off, then the instrument panel went totally dark and the red warning light of the alternator went back on. It was the longest mile of my life, driving from the water store to my condo in the only new car I had ever purchased, my 1995 Chrysler Cirrus, first year of production, last and only year of OBD-I electronics. I thought I had a car that would stay the course when I bought it, I now realized that it is now only a source of parts for other fated owners of this breed who think they too have mastered the reasons why their vehicle acts as it does. The responsibility I find is with the engineers that had chosen the wire to be used in the assembling of the wiring harnesses for the 2.5L variety that is at fault here. The insulation on the wires deteriorates (in the taped harnesses, not just below the distributor as some have stated) but under the intake plenum, and adjacent (on the cold side) of the underhood junction box. Who knows where else this defect exists? I am sure you will know if you stay with this forum, it is the only one that I am contributing this information to. You may wonder why I am sharing this story with you, I will leave you with that now. I was a career automotive driveability expert for 20 years, and for the next 10 years I worked with an electronic diagnostic tool company programming their tool to help other techs solve problems on today's cars. This car was at first a platform for testing and reverse engineering computer code and datastream information, as was my other vehicle, a 95 Chevrolet S-10 (which is still running well, I must say) though, it too has electrical problems not unlike those of my beloved and now dead Cirrus. I believed that I could fix anything automotive related from my many successes in the shop, under the hood and I believe that still. I now discover after leaving the industry that some vehicles simply cannot be repaired. Not because the problem was not discovered (as many of you have found after replacing crank sensors, distributors, and who knows what else ? ? ?) but because the manufacturer, including the after-market suppliers, never provided replacement parts without the defect present. That means, that hitting the wrecking yard for a new harness isn't a solution either. The 95 is a one year only wiring harness. As contracts go, who knows how long that wiring was used in harnesses? I don't know the answer to that, but, I have an answer for how to prevent this from happening again, and it is quite simple -- I will never buy another Chrysler product again!
    I have already told myself this before, I have blacklisted several other companies for similarly not standing behind their products. I am sure you too do not purchase from certain companies, perhaps from a bad experience, perhaps for ethical reasons, now you can include this one as I have, if you choose. I shall not waste any more of my hard earned money chasing demons implanted in a product at the time of manufacture with no way out provided by those in the know.

    I can easily relate this to the soullessness of the corporation, the greediness of mindless decision makers, the pointlessness of accounting decision, but I will not digress or be furthermore redundant.

    Namaste and good luck with your choices and decisions in life!
  • my wife was driving the car and it had been running great, next thing I know she said the engine just quit while she was driving like it ran out of gas... now it cranks fine but wont start. I checked the relay or fuse for fuel pump under hood, I sprayed starter fluid inti the intake tube with no luck it seems like there is no spark...If anyone has any idead what should I try or check next?
    Thanks for your time
  • tommy666tommy666 Posts: 9
    I haven't been around for a while but I'm still working on my 95' cirrus. I just want to sell it. It books for $2,000 but I refuse to pawn it off until I fix It. So as far as the anti theft goes I got it figured out. The ECM I baught was reflashed for '95 and up. The problem is that '95 has no anti theft so when I got the new ECM it had anti theft information. My BCM learned this information corrupting it and locking me out. '95 has no alarm disableing devices. I was screwed. I baught a clicker but couldn't program it because naturaly I was locked out of the computer. I had to buy a new ECM and BCM and install them at the same time but parts alone would be over $1000.00. I found a guy who was able to find the wire at my BCM that would disable the alarm long enought to program my clicker. Back on the road, so I thought. The car started back with its old tricks. After changing my crank shaft position sensor 3 times, Distributor 3 times and the computer the stupid thing is stalling again. It happens when driving slow or at idle. It does not start again for 24 to 48 hours most times. I gutted the Cat. and it looked like a ball of slag. Iassumed the would fix the problem. Wrong. I got it good and hot then let it Idle and after 5 min it died. Crank and Crank but no start. I cooled it down with a big splash. 5 gal bucket of water (top off) I cranked and got it running rough missing like hell. I took off down hill as much as possible. Eventually after making her go and treating her like the [non-permissible content removed] she is she cleaned out and purred like a kitten. Somebody suggest fuel filter, not a bad idea anyway. It sure feels like fuel. I am a bit intrigued by the altinator solution. Under powered spark now that sounds good. I once had a camero that wasn't getting enough spark and turned out to be a bad ignition switch. Thank You for your concern. tommy
Sign In or Register to comment.