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Mazda CX-9 Tires and Wheels



  • rhannrhann Posts: 6
    Thanks for the link. Those chains look like a good option. We will likely keep the 20" wheels as we rarely need chains and they look a little cooler. :-)
  • 16ue16ue Posts: 6
    Door post showed 34 PSI recommended. The tires were actually inflated to 45-46 PSI. Once adjusted to 34 PSI I took the CX-9 for a spin around the neighborhood and could feel quite a difference.

    The tires on my CX-9 GT that I took delivery in January 2008 in California were also over-inflated to 46 when hot but dropped down to 40.5 when the car sat in the garage overnight. I reduced the tire pressure to 35 psi when cold. The ride is definitely less bumpy now.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Tires on new vehicles were over-inflated for the sake of preventing flat-spotting during long transportation and sitting on parking lots. Dealers are expected to adjust the pressure and top off all fluids before deliver the vehicles to customers. Often than not, they didn't do their job.
    Check your tire pressure and fluid level. You would be surprised.
  • kbedwardskbedwards Posts: 41
    Within a couple of months of owning my CX-9, I was going up a ramp in a parking garage (SLOWLY obviously) and nipped the concrete barrier (approx 5-7" high, i.e. lower than a typical parking concrete "block") and blew out the two right side tires. I couldn't believe it. At the speed I was going, and the height of the obstacle, I was shocked at the carnage.

    I wonder if mine were overinflated as well. No way to tell now of course. That was an expensive lesson.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    The sidewall of most tires are only polymer and rubber. The concrete barrier your tires ran into might have a sharp edge to it. It happened to me long time ago on my old Honda Accord. No tires are immune to that if the concrete barrier has a sharp edge to it.
  • fishrule1fishrule1 Posts: 4
    Let's cut to the chase here: if I blow out a single tire on my `08 GT AWD, can I replace it alone, or do I have to replace all four tires? Tire stores will tell you that the latter is the case, of course, but what is the truth?

    Oh, and, sorry if I missed the topic elsewhere. My search revealed nothing.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    AWD system is more sensitive to left/right balance of tires on one axle.
    By balancing, I meant
    - diameter
    - tire grip (same brand, same age/wear)
    Even tire of the same "size" (i.e. 245/55R20) actually might have slightly different diameters (see for specs).

    So, in short,
    - if your tires are still new (few miles on them), I would buy the same tire and put just ONE on.
    - if your tires are pretty worn, I would recommend you buy two (per axle) and keep the old one as spare. And, put the newer two tires on the rear axle.

    That is just my opinion. Let us see what others have to say.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Just so that people who wonder about this know.
    Our CX9s are equipped with TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system). When rotating tires, you DO NOT need to reset the TPMS. Here is what I found after some research.
    - if your vehicle is capable of telling you WHICH tire has too low pressure, then, chances are you need to reset TPMS every time you rotate tires (such as some high-end luxury vehicles like Acura RL or Lexus LS)
    - if your vehicles is NOT capable of telling you that (like our CX9, which only shows a warning light), then, you simply rotate the tires like you used to do.

    I just rotated the tires over the weekend. 100 miles later, no light at all. Google search before I did it gave me confusing information. Therefore, I post the correct answer here to share with you all.

    When changing to new tires, make sure you tell the mechanics not to damage the sensors connected to the valve stem. They are pretty expensive. There is no way to turn the TMPS light off permanently since it is against Federal law. For those who use winter tires set, you either have to buy a new set of sensors to go with them or simply ignore the constant light of TPMS that shows up in your dash.

    According to the WorkShop Manual, our CX9s pressure sensors inside the tires sends signal to the central antenna (same one as your SmartKey or non-SmartKey receiver). The sensors do so once per hour and after the speed reaches 25km/h (15.5mph). "Once per hour" so that the little batteries inside the sensors can last 10 years.

    I can post the procedure to register the new sensors if anyone is interested.
    I believe it is also in your owners' manual so I omit it here.
  • Have you successfully used the cable chains? I want to make sure they fit before I invest in a set. Thanks.
  • farefare Posts: 4
    I'm in the market for a CX 9. I thought I wanted the GT until I read all the posts about how awful the tires are in the snow. I live in Maryland and only occassionally get snow so snow tires aren't a great option. I'm wondering if I should get a Touring instead. Any thoughts?
  • I have an 08 CX-9 AWD that I've had for just a few weeks. Yesterday and today, we had snow and ice in the DC area, and the 20" tires did just fine- so far.
  • I had the same concern and was planning on asking the dealer for a switch to 18" when I buy a GT. However, 'ceric' replied to my post on another forum that has changed my mind (after reading reviews) and I will be keeping my 20" and getting the below.

    Yoko Parada Spec-X
    (Check for reviews).

    They sound too good to be true. I live in Northern Jersey so snow capability is a must for me.

    Thanks ceric
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Glad to be of any help, seaweed20.

    OE tires (Bridgestone Dueller H/L) are not cheap tires. It listed $200 on (while Yoko Parada Spec-X is ONLY $160). So, MAZDA was not trying to be cheap here. It is just that they chose summer performance over snow.
    The OE tires work well on dry and wet pavements.

    Also, make sure you choose a CX9 that is manufactured as late as possible (see the stickers on the base of B-pillar) so that those TSBs (see another thread) don't apply to your new CX9.
  • One question, ceric, is that would I be deteriorating the tire at an increased pace if I keep them on 24/7? Or would the recommendation be to only use the Yokos during winter?

    I could not find any specific comment on this.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    The OE tires are more summer-oriented all-season tires.
    The Yoko Parada Spec-X are more truely all-season tires.
    Both are all-season ones.
    Unlike snow-tires, they don't wear very quickly in summer.
    Yoko Spec-X has wear index of 460 while OE one has only 260. That means, by federal testing, the Yoko lasts almost 2X longer! :)
  • Thanks for your response. This really helps.
  • Anybody know if RX-8 wheels can handle the weight of a CX-9? I'm looking for a set of OEM 18" rims to put snow tires on. It appears they are the same offset and bolt pattern, but the CX-9 is about 1500 pounds heavier.
  • Bought my 9 about 4 months ago---GT AWD. When I buy a new vehicle I typically buy a 5th matching spare alloy and tire to replace the temp donut from the factory. This allows me to do a five way rotation to make the whole set last longer, and gives me the option of continuing on a trip if one tire goes instead of being forced to stop and repair the tire nearly immediately, since the donuts are only rated for about 50 miles or so. So :( today, after getting my matching 20 inch rim and waiting several weeks for the special order matching tire to arrive from Japan, I go to exchange it for the donut, only to find that the device that dangles from the cable under the rear and goes through the center hole of the wheel is bigger than the hole in my alloy wheel (fits the steel wheel fine since its hole is bigger). Anybody got any solutions?
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155

    Now that's an expensive mistake! About $1000+ maybe?

    Is there someway you can use a steel chain attached to the down cable with weatherproof locks (to protect from road debris)? Maybe you can thread it through the new rim and attach with a steel bar that can fit through the opening and be locked in place with u bolt or other.
  • That's crazy, but not surprising given all the other retarded things about the CX-9!

    So where do they expect you to put the 20" wheel with the flat if you get one on the side of the road and you got the back full of other stuff? ie. on a road trip with the family and the car is already stuffed to the gills.
  • treebarktreebark Posts: 1
    I don't want to thread hijack but 1) what was Ceric's post that made you change your mind and 2) what other forum (if that is allowed to ask) did you see it on. As a new owner (soon anyway) I wanted to find as many resources as I could. Hmmm, wonder if there is a resource center out there for CX-7 links!

    Also, getting a GT and nearly all review sites seem to mention they are rougher and nosier tires than the 18s, so thus my interest in what Ceric said. Some sort of advantage of having 20s over 18s?
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    It is much tougher to find a tire chain for 20" wheel. In fact, the manual recommends you not to install tire chain on the 20" due to possibility of chains scratching the wheels.

    So, there you have it. The only upsides for the 20" wheels are
    - better cornering (shorter side-wall)
    - look

    Other than those, 20" wheels are heavier (even combining with tires), which is bad for a lot of criteria (stopping distance, acceleration, MPG, etc.) Add the difficulty to obtain tire chains (actually you could, but they are usually more expensive than the 18" one). Besides, the seller does not guarante that there will be no rubbing between chains and wheels (due to short side walls).

    Just my two cents.
  • vermontervermonter Posts: 10
    We recently purchased an AWD CX-9 GT here in Vermont. A couple days after buying the car, we received about 10" of snow from a storm. The AWD did fine, but the tires definately needed to be swapped out for proper winter treads. We had already ordered Bridgestone Blizzaks and 18" alloy rims (you can find a set for about $1,000 for both rims and tires at Tire Rack). We put on the Blizzaks - a very popular winter tire up here - and they made a profound difference. We also have them on our Subbie Outback, which can go just about anywhere.

    If we bought the same Blizzaks for the 20" rims, the package would have cost the same and we would not have the benefit of an extra set of rims. The tire companies make a substantially higher margin off tires for larger rim sizes. Now the 20" wheels are in the basement until summer and the winters will get only half the use (they are sharp looking too).
  • vikefan7vikefan7 Posts: 8
    Where the heck did you see that deal? I've been trying to find 18" rims and tires and the cheapest I could find on their site was like $1400. What exactly did you get?
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    I don't think he/she meant OE wheels of 18".
    Alloy wheels can differ greatly in prices. If you want the OE 18", the best prices would probably be from your local craigslist due to shipping cost.
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    Rims alone for $1400? Are you looking at the original Mazda?

    I purchased 4 new 18" rims, plus TPMS, plus 18" DMZ-3 Blizzaks shipped to my house for $1400 from TireRack.

    The Sport Edition Rims on TireRack are shiny and good enough for winter.
  • vikefan7vikefan7 Posts: 8
    No, it was rims and tires for $1400 and not the OEM wheels.
  • vermontervermonter Posts: 10
    Like post #62 mentioned, I bought the Sport Edition rims (SE-14) on tire rack in bright silver and the DMZ-3 Blizzaks. No TPMS. Total cost on Tire Rack is $1,124 before shipping. Our Mazda dealer agreed to offer us the same package through Tire Rack at their cost, which came to a little over $1,000 including tax and shipping. Great looking rims and wonderful winter tread.

    We don't rely on TPMS up here. Yesterday when I walked to work, it was negative 6 degrees f. Today it warmed up to 40. The very first week we bought the Mazda, when we still had the 20" rims and summer tires on, the TPMS light came on and turned off about 4 times due to the fluctuation in the temps. A below zero night and sunny 20 degree day will do it most times.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Interesting to me about the TPMS.
    I did an experiment with my daughter on tire pressure vs MPG.
    At 60f when we tested it, the TPMS does not light up until somewhere between 20 to 25psi (i.e. OK at 25psi, light up at 20psi). Tires are warm up after low-speed driving.

    Basically, you were saying that -6f caused one of the tire to go below 25psi. The absolute zero is -273f. Temp fluctuation from -6 to 40f is less than 20% compared to 273f. The PSI change should be less than 6psi is it was 30psi.
    In short, I suspect one of your tires has low pressure (i.e. < 30psi).
    You might want to check for it.
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