Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

arnold56

I have a 93 Taurus 3.8. I'm the 2nd owner of the car. I got the car at 54K and it is now at 95K.
Problem started about a month ago where smoke spewed out of hood, no heat and leaking anti-freeze.
Brought it to my local mechanic and told me it was head gasket. Replaced it with trade in of new refurbished gaskets at cost of $1,500 and did a tune-up for a total of almost $1,800.
Car appeared to work that day. Drove to work, no heat and gauge was still sitting "dead red" (hot).
Brought it back and they looked again. Checked it and said it was fixed again. Brought it back the next day with no heat and gauge on hot again.
This time they took the entire engine down and said one of the refurbished gaskets was shot. replaced it under warranty.
anyway, drove it away and had heat for one day, but was losing antifreeze. Brought it back again and it was fixed. Drove it again for one day and it had no heat again.
After arguing with mechanic, they agreed to take another look. Replaced thermostat.
Problem now is i get plenty of heat, but when i stop at a traffic light then accelerate, the heat gauge goes up to between the "A" and "L" of normal. As soon as i'm moving, it goes back down. Have plenty of heat, car running well, but no luck with the gauge.
Mechanic tells me he replaced the thermostat with a "195." The 195, he claims, needs to be recalibrated because the car computer is still reading the old thermostat settings prior to the changes.
Is this for real or what?
any help appreciated.
TIA...

strokeoluck

Gsleve, Boy...I don't know what to tell you. My local mechanic charged me $300 and change. The Dodge dealership (who I'm "hoping" would know how to change out plugs properly) gave me the same line about being difficult to remove and quoted me a cost about 20% higher than the independent shop. We too had another D/C, a '94 Voyager. If the '94 is the same as the '95 I thought the engines looked a bit differnt in terms of the way the engine was packed in there. But it was some time ago and I don't really recall. Given that my mechanic has saved me so much in other costs I'm not overly upset if he didn't quit know how to get these plugs out (and it gives me some comfort that the D/C shop said the same thing) but I wouldn't mind hearing from anyone else w/this engine - I guess we'd have to post on their link.

On to my Taurus. A 2000 with 101,000 miles. I had the trans. fluid changed in July 2002 at 81,000 miles. Lately it's been shifting a little slow and fluid level is fine. Took it in today and they told me the fluid was fairly dark and they replaced it with a "synthetic" trans. fluid (don't recall the first change being done w/synth. fluid; and this change was $20 higher due to synth. whereas the last change was regular price...maybe last shop didn't use synth. fluid?). Anyway, what IS synth. fluid and does the Taurus call for it? I was a bit disappointed that the last change only lasted for 20k miles - I thought a change should last for 30k plus. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rob

ehenness

Tauruses and Sables from at least '98 (may be back to '96) require Mercon V fluid in their transmissions. Mercon V is either a synthetic or a semi-synthetic (I forget which). If you use a non-Ford brand, be sure that it meets Mercon V specs. Mercon is NOT the same stuff. Mercon V also has special friction modifiers for dealing with converter chatter. If you used something other than Mercon V, that could have been your problem. The fluid type will matter.

Dexron III is NOT the same either (and that's what most places automatically use unless you specifically ask. Up until Mercon V showed up, I think only Chrysler products used a special fluid (from 1987 models onward) except for much older Fords (type F for Fords in the 1970s and earlier), so few shops bothered to stock more than the Dexron II/III. Now that Chrysler is not the only one needing a different type, shops are more aware of the differences. You should still ask to be sure...

Note that Ford calls for changes every 30,000 miles (normal service) or 21,000 (severe service), so dirty fluid developing so quickly after only one change at 81K doesn't seem too unusual.

slickdog

arnold56,

So, you've been bitten by the infamous Ford 3.8 head gasket problem, eh? My wife has a '92 with the 3.8, and we're feeling quite lucky that we haven't blown our gaskets out yet. The car has been burning coolant for about a year now, so I'm thinking we're dangerously close. Car shopping commences in May, and I'm going to unload that thing (hopefully) before it blows up!

At any rate, I just wanted to say that I've replaced my wife's thermostat before, and I don't recall what type it was although I do know I replaced it with whatever was specified by Ford as appropriate for the car.

Did your mechanic say what your old thermostat was or why he changed to a different one? Judging by your description it looks like it must have been something lower than a 195 degree thermostat (since your temp. gauge indicates higher temps. now), but that seems odd becuase most of the one's I've replaced are 195 or higher. I personally wouldn't bother changing to a different variety unless I had a problem with the car overheating or not warming up quickly enough.

Of course, my conclusion about the original thermostat could be completely wrong if there is another problem which is causing the engine to run hot, and the mechanic really just put the same kind of thermostat in and is telling you it's a different one so you won't suspect the engine work he just did as the cause of the difference in normal operating temperature. That's a tough one to solve without spending additional money to get a second opinion, but I'll leave that up to you. I would start by trying to find out if your Taurus would normally have a 195 degree thermostat, becuase if so, that should definitely make you suspicious. You could probably just inquire with the parts guy at the local Ford dealer or even a NAPA store about what sort of thermostat your car would normally take.

As for the temperature gauge, the mechanic is correct (although the wording is a bit strange). There is a temperature sensor (separate from the thermostat) which provides the readings that display on your temperature gauge. If your mechanic installed a thermostat which opens at a higher temperature, the coolant is going to be hotter most of the time, and therefore the reading on the guage will be higher. I'm not sure if anything can be "recalibrated" to affect the temp. gauge in that car (perhaps in the computer or the gauge itself), but I believe he was probably attempting to communicate the notion that with the different thermostat, the gauge's indication of what is "Low", "Normal", or "Hot" is going to be a bit skewed. This is why I have always liked the GM temp. gauges with the actual numbers on them. They probably aren't dead on accurate, but at least it's easier to provide a number to a mechanic than a description like: "about 2/3 between normal and hot...".

Good luck...

gsleve

are using this excuse to their advantage to esculate the cost of replacing these plugs, I found that mechanics, at least pretty good ones who've encoutered tricky situations usually invent a procedure or look hard to find a way to facilitate a procedure thats potentially chanllenging. Be that as it may they do have the advantage over someone who may be uneducated or disinclined on how to perform certain mechanical procedures.

denon12345

Have a 1999 Ford Tauras, has about 62000km. The problem is when the car is shut off the power sterring fluid backup in to the container. But when the car starts up it sucks it all back through. If anyone know any idea what it could be, it would be very helpful.

Thanks.

tweetyt2

Hi. I am considering buying a 2000 Taurus. It is being sold by a company who's sales people drive them and is coming off a lease. It has 38,000 miles. I have never owned one but have relatives who have had good and bad experiences. What would be your advice? I would buy an extended warranty.
Thanks. Tweetyt2

badgerfan

Read back on the last several hundred posts here and also in the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable Sedans discussion and you will see most people are very happy with theirs. This generation Taurus has so far been pretty problem free.

However, buying a used car, no matter what make, is always a risk. Try to get the maintenance history, etc, and learn as much about the particular car you can. Your extended warranty may make sense so you won't get badly burned by an expensive repair, that might be a result of abuse or poor maintenance.

Mt 2000 SES with the Duratec DOHC V-6 has been excellent, now at about 25K miles.

strokeoluck

Well, I was wrong. My trans. was slipping just a tad so I took it in and had the trans. fluid replaced (with the synthetic kind). The trans. worked great for a few days but now it's back to it's "slipping" ways. I don't know if it's truly SLIPPING but it takes an extra split second or so to bump out of one gear and into the next. My 2000 Taurus has 103,000 of mostly highway miles.

My next door neighbor is a Ford mechanic (but he only works on the brand new exec cars for Ford HQ) and said it's probably time to have the trans. rebuilt. He can put me in touch with a good/cheap guy that is semi-retired and would charge $1200-$1500 as opposed to the ~$3000 a shop would charge.

My question: does anyone know how long I can drive the car in this condition without it getting too much worse? Are we talking about 1000 miles or 10,000 miles? I typically drive my car a total of 10 miles/day (5 miles to work and 5 miles back) so I don't stress it too much. Also, are there any additives or other "stuff" I can dump in the trans. to help 'ol Bessie along?

Thanks,
Rob

driverbern

I'm wondering what kind of gas mileage other people are getting. I have a 2002 SEL with 68000 miles on it. I average over 4000 miles a month in my job. On highway driving (Interstate) I average about 29 mpg. Actually, on my last two trips of approx. 1500 miles I got just over 30 mpg. How does this compare to others?

badgerfan

Your highway only mileage sounds about right-maybe even a bit higher than most people will get. I have only checked all highway mileage on two tankefuls and got about 27+ but that was a winter test with strong headwinds on the first leg, and fairly cold on the return. I would guess 30 is about the best you can get, independent of whether it is the base engine or the Duratec. On my daily commute, which is 12 miles each way, about 9 of it on lightly congested freeway, the other 3 on city streets, I get 23-24. Mine is a 2000 SES Duratec.

gsleve

that you go to the auto-rx.net site and read some of the documentation and spend the 25.00 and run through the procedure, it could'nt hurt the least you'll be out is 25.00. I 've had some friends use it and his tranny fluid was'nt changed for a good long while, It was a late model chevy conversion van had about 100k on the vehicle problem encountered was frequent slippage and could'nt climb hills he just lost reverse and could'nt get the car past second gear, after the auto-rx procedure, he called and thank me because the tranny was functioning like new for the last 4 months, this saved him a considerable amount of $.

strokeoluck

Well, I guess I have nothing to lose. I'll give this auto-rx stuff a try and see if it helps. The fact that you're recommending it, combined with it's low price, is enough for me to spend the $25.

By the way, did your buddy do the T-tec flush or not? I just had my trans flushed but it was done at a regular oil change shop.

I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks,
Rob

gsleve

I suggested not due to the fact the fluid had'nt been changed in a while and they usually do not pull the pan and get rid of the old filter they leave it in, I think with any vehicle with the exception of the japanese cars they all need to have the filter changed when this procedure is performed their makeup in nature is cellulose whereas the japanese vehicles are made with a screen mesh.

The filter should always be changed after this t-tec flush system yet the ones running it only see time savings and greater profit without considering the impact on the consumer.

Don't forget the site is www.auto-rx.net this is devoted to the transmission, the www auto-rx.com is devoted to cleaning the motor

bigdan1

My 2000 Taurus "Door Ajar" light stays on whenever engine is on.
Also, dome light stays on all the time, so I pulled bulb.
All doors are closed. No doors are ajar. Dealer says it is common problem on Taurus. About $100 to fix. Anybody have this problem?

Same 2000 Taurus has had 4 sets of front brake rotors in last 15,000 miles (from 40,000 miles to 65,00 miles). Well known tire dealer is replacing them for free each time, but neither he nor I know what can be casuing failures. Anybody have this problem? I had new front and rear brakes and new rotors put on at 40,000 miles. Other than that, car seems OK.

Thanks. Dan

badgerfan

Check post 713. While it hasn't happened on my Taurus, this post described spraying the bottom of the door latch area with WD-40 to free up the sticky switch.

I find Edmunds has a nice search feature. If you type in door ajar in the search box, it lists all the posts that have those words and you can click on the appropriate post.

jrc346

My sons 1996 T-Bird has that brief pause in between shifts (most noticeably between 1st and 2nd) that I think you are describing. However, it has been that way for a long time. I know that these are very different drivetrains, but I don't think that you have anything to worry about. It has 115,000 miles on it now.

wijoco

<Same 2000 Taurus has had 4 sets of front brake rotors in last 15,000 miles (from 40,000 miles to 65,00 miles). Well known tire dealer is replacing them for free each time, but neither he nor I know what can be casuing failures. Anybody have this problem? I had new front and rear brakes and new rotors put on at 40,000 miles. Other than that, car seems OK.>

Wow. That's a problem. I thought my 97's consumption of a set every two years was trouble. I would thank the tire dealer for his honest effort, and then find someone who knows what the heck they're doing. Unless you're chauferred by Jackie Stewart, you're looking at a mechanical problem somehwere. Either the dealer is using substandard postwar East-German rotors, or there is a problem with your vehicle or his installation. I'm guessing you have aluminum wheels, in which case I would question the tech performing the work on your Taurus about his torque methods. The lugs on your Taurus need to be torqued in steps according to the factory-specified procedure (5-point star pattern, in steps, only to the maximum recommended torque. NO IMPACT WRENCHES!!!)
If that's being done correctly, begin suspecting the calipers. Check for obvious signs like difficulty turning the front wheels by hand after new rotor installation, or poor gas mileage. Deteriorating brake hoses can also drag calipers.
Another possibility is the pressure differential valve, located in the rear supension area. This modulates brake fluid pressure, when brakes are applied, between front and rear brakes. It is vertically adjusted with the ride height of the rear end so that a heavier load (3 adults in the back seat, for example) allows more brake power to the rears, relative to the fronts. It could be defective or out-of-adjustment. You may suspect it if the front pads are wearing out a much faster rate (say, 3-4 times) than the rear shoes. You could have a severe suspension alignment problem, but you would have noticed that through excessive tire wear or strange steering. A malfunctioning master cylinder can also be a problem, as well as an out-of-round wheel spindle. So, there are a lot of potential problems, but I think the four sets of rotors were more of a symptom than the problem. I would invest in a few hours of diagnotic time with someone who specializes in brake work. Make sure you discuss the problem thoroughly with him and help get started in the right direction.

wijoco

My 97 Taurus is enduring a bad case of leprosy: The rubberized trim paint around the doors is spotting and turning colors. It's not mold or mildew; the actual paint itself is coming apart. I've noticed it on a lot of 96s/97s. Anyone else having the same problem, or know a cheap and easy solution?

strokeoluck

To wijoco: I used to work at Ford dealership back in the mid-late '80's (back in high school days just parking/washing cars). I recall back then they had a lot of problems with paint peeling off the hoods and roofs of Tauruses (Tauri???) and I believe they even had the same problem on some of their F150's as well. I too have noticed the paint problem on the later Taurus trim - same w/T-birds I believe. I'm not a paint & body guy, though my Dad is, but I really don't think there's much you can do other than repaint that piece. I "believe" (again, I'm an amateur) that if the trim is sanded, prepped, primed properly that the new paint will stick.

To: jrc346 re: the T-bird transmission. How many miles were on your son's car when the problem started? That's good news by the way.

Thanks,
Rob

jrc346

Rob,
It has been that way for sometime. We bought the car used at 89,000K miles and it did it then. I asked the previous owner (a friend of mine) about it and he said it did it ever since he bought it at 45,000K miles. It hasn't gotten much worse or even worse at all. There is nothing sloppy about the shifting, just a pause between 1st and 2nd and sometimes a very brief pause between 2nd and 3rd (though this happens less frequently). I have heard that this really isn't a big deal, just that the pause has to do with the clutch packs filling with fluid? I am in no way a transmition specialist, but I remember hearing this somewhere. All I do with the transmition on that car is change the transmition fluid and filter every 15-20K to keep it clean inside. I don't want to instigate false hope, but I am just saying that I have had no problems with this (problem?), and other than that, the transmition has been a strong runner.

On the paint front, the car seems to be fine except it attracts oxidation like CRAZY! It's black so it shows everything, but it's sharp when clean and waxed.

ehenness

I'm a bit confused here. Do you mean on the door pillars? The '96-up Tauruses have no trim paint around the doors (with one exception). There is rubber around the window, and the door edges (the rear of the front door and the front of the rear door--covering the B pillar) is a sort of adhesive sticker. This stuff is stick-on, heavy duty black vinyl. It can get nicked and damaged and looks bad when it does.

You can peel all of that off and replace it. The car may or may not be painted underneath and if you take it off you might find it painted and not need to replace the vinyl.

The exception is on some of the earlier Taurus G models. These were less expensive, and had only the window rubber and painted metal in that area. They did not apply the vinyl to keep the cost down.

There's also the plastic panel that runs from fenderwell to fenderwell. It's either black or painted depending on year and trim line. If you have a black one and that's peeling, it's probably damaged. If it's painted and peeling, then you can remove it and repaint it.

Those are the only trim pieces on the Taurus I can think of. There's no rubbery sort of stone chip protection on the bottom of the doors that I can recall. Some cars use this, but the plastic trim panel keeps that from being needed.

wijoco

No, not the trim panel between the front and rear door windows. I meant the trim around the windows. Not the rubber strip immediately after the window (which is solid rubber and is holding up fine on mine), but the strip of unknown substance that borders the outer edge of each door top. There is also a strip of rubbery substance below the window edge of each door(which is actually separate from the water seal below each window-if you look closely you can see the joining line of the two different pieces). You almost have to be looking at the door to see what I mean. Anyway, the stuff feels like a vinyl-type paint sprayed over plastic, almost like Dupli-Color Bumper Black. It's like a cauliflower distortion where white, moldy-looking blotches are appearing where the trim is deteriorating. I know someone else has this problem, because I've seen lots of 96s and 97s with this in parking lots. I wonder if there is an easier way to deal with it besides painting it myself, because it would require masking half the car just to paint a few little strips.

ehenness

Ah. I understand now. And you're right--I have a hard time picturing that 100% without seeing the car!

I wonder if that stuff is replaceable easily--maybe not, given that it's kind of embedded with the rubber.

I have a '98 (built in May, '98 though) and these parts are doing fine. I wonder if they changed something or I'm just going to see the same thing and it's not there yet.

Maybe see if there's a pick-your-part kind of junkyard nearby and see what you can yank and use? At least that way you'd know if it was a big pain or even possible to get the strips out without trashing your own car...

Then again, I wonder if that stuff is actually the same as what goes between the doors. If it is, you'd be able to easily get more, but the disassembly might be worse than the installation.

kenasmith

I have a '90 Merc Sable with the 3.8l engine. This car has been off the road for about two years and I'm now trying to get it running again. Some time ago my son took the ignition coil off the car and now can't remember how it goes together. There is an L shaped bracket that the coil rests in, with 4 small bolts holding it in place. There are 2 larger bolts to hold it to the engine. That much looks good. There is also another narrower L shaped bracket, and I can't tell what it's for or where it goes. Can anyone describe what this should look like, or send me pictures of what it looks like when in place?
If sending pictures, please send them to kasmith@chek.com
Thanks
Ken

vince4

My 2000 has had a very noticable pause between 1st and 2nd since it was new. I believe the computer retards the engine timing or restricts fuel just before and during the shift to reduce the torque load on the transmission. I suspect it is a bandaid to increase transmission life. This may be different than yours since you say it changed.

wijoco

I think that's about right. My 97 has always had a "weird" 1-2 shift compared to the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts. It's pretty normal for the Taurus/Windstar transaxles.

dmcgowan

I am currently test driving a '97 Sable GS wagon (third row seat, ABS, 3.0 SEFI V6). I have it until Monday night (today is Saturday). I intend to have a used car check performed at a local dealer/mechanic. Can anybody offer any thoughts on what to look out for on this car? I've seen complaints about transmission problems. Does anyone have any info to suggest how widespread the problems are? Consumer Reports gives the tranny an "Average" rating. Any other potential trouble spots? BTW, the car has 63,000 miles on it, and has an extremely well-maintained interior and exterior. The current offer on the table at the dealer is $6600 out the door. Any thoughts will be appreciated. Thanks!

strokeoluck

To: DMCGOWAN, I owned a '96 Taurus till 80k and had no problems w/the trans. However I know a guy that owned a '97 Taurus SHO and the trans. puked out on him at ~50k miles, about 10k miles before his extended warranty was due to run out. I honestly don't know if they truly had trans. problems or if, by the simple fact there's so d*mn many of them on the road, that you hear about it more often than other brands/models. If you're a fairly conservative guy it might not hurt to investigate the cost of an extended warranty.

TO: ALL, this is going to be the stupid question of the week. Where in the heck is the trans. filler tube on a 2000 Taurus???

Thanks,
Rob

danielj6

Has anybody replaced by themselves a brake light bulb on a 2000-2003 Sable/Taurus?

This week I dropped off my car at the shop for an emissions inspection, and dealer's service changed a bulb to the cost of $2.64 for the bulb and $20.00 for labor. Hourly rate is $90.00 per hour.

johnwng

My '97 Taurus has recently started making squish noises when turning the steering wheel. Not sure if it is normal with a car of this age, or if it means the power steering is going to break down. Does anyone on this board have experienced similar problems? If so, how was it fixed? Thanks in advance for your advises.

strokeoluck

John, I posted a similar question a while back re: a "rubbing" type noise I was hearing from my steering column. This only occurred when I cranked the wheel hard & fast, and it always sounded worse when it was really cold. Now that's warm I still hear it now and then but it's not real noticeable. Is this similar to your problem?

If so you may want to try searching this thread under words like "steering", etc. to try and find either my post (someone answered but I forget what it was now because I decided to live w/it for now) or someone else's.

Good luck, Rob

johnwng

Rob, thanks for your reply. Yes, the noise is similar to that of yours. How long have you been living with it? I don't mind the noise and can live with it as long as the car does not break down on the road.

snowman

My 2K Taurus developed this noise over the winter too. It is still there but when the wheather is warm it is less noticable. I've not addressed the issue yet. Last year, under warranty, steering pump was replaced on my car. So I have relatively new component. I am leaning towards steering column lubrication...

johnwng

Snowman, my steering noise is just like that. Noise started after this severe winter in New York. Right now, the noise is quite noticeable in the morning, but gets better after driving for some time. Does anyone know how to lubricate the steering column? Is it a do-it-yourself job?

riswami

I wouldn't complain about the charge for installing the brake light bulb. Consider yourself lucky they didn't charge you for an hour!

strokeoluck

Hi guys, I recall this noise started in Fall of '02 so I've been living with it since then. Here's a response I received on 1/20/03 from someone on the board:

*****
I bought a 2000 Tore-[non-permissible content removed] 2 weeks ago and had this problem as well. Well fixing the faulty brake switch, I also tracked this down. There is a rubber boot similar to a CV boot near the gas pedal. The steering shaft goes through this boot and a white "puck" like part rubs on the inside of the boot. Push the boot towards the floor, compressing it, use dielectic grease and liberally applied it to this surface eliminating the friction and the noise.
*****

But I honestly don't know if this could be the problem because my noise is coming RIGHT from where the steering wheel meets the stationary base of the steering column, not from anywhere near the gas pedal. I too feel like if I could just squirt a little WD-40 somewhere in that crack that maybe my problem would go away. I am due to have my car in the shop this next Wednesday (my check engine light came on again after the shop told me a new EGR valve had solved my problem...problem still exists) and I'll ask those guys if they've seen it before and have a "cheap fix".

- Rob

gwizz

Hello All - I'm now the proud owner of a slightly used loaded 2000 Taurus sedan with the DOHC 24v engine. So far I am very pleased with it- Nice car.

The dealer did NOT have the owner's manual or security code info. I found an owner's manual .pdf here on the net http://www.fleet.ford.com and downloaded it, where it mentions the factory security code for the keyless entry option is on the computer module.

I can't find the computer module in this car! There is a fuse box below the dash on the driver's side, also another under the hood up front , but nothing that looks like it has a 5-digit security code taped to it.

Can someone tell me where to look for the factory security code on this car?

Thanks!

vince4

Just to add to the conversation, my 2000 has recently started making the exact same noise. 26k miles.

vince4

I'll take a look in my factory service manual to find the location.

strokeoluck

Hi guys, tonight I dropped my car off at the local mechanics shop. I had it in a week ago because it was hesitating/chugging during light acceleration. They said they checked the codes and replaced the EGR valve (which they did). However after I picked it up it did the same thing again. I happened to talk to my neighbor who's a corporate HQ mechanic for Ford (although too old to crawl into or under my car; plus I don't think he needs the extra cash) and he said he NEVER replaces EGR valves anymore but he DOES replace the DPFE part which is just upline from the EGR valve. I forget what the heck DPFE stands for but it's something like 'dual pressure fuel...' - I could be way off. But he said it's real simple to replace it and can sometimes get stuck from just a little water hitting it (and it happens to be tucked away right under the spot where the hood meets the windshield so I can see that happening). Apparently this comes up as code: PO 401 or PO 402. I've alerted the local fellas and I'll see if they concur, just thought I'd share w/the group.

I also hope they can catch the steering noise. If the several of us are having the problem on this little board I'm sure it's a wider problem. I'm hoping my shop can solve it. If not I may have to go out and cut the grass the same time as my neighbor and "convienently" ask him about ANOTHER problem. Actually my Taurus has served me well and I'm generally happy with it.

- Rob

vince4

Once again I'm amazed at how bad the factory service manual is. It doesn't show where the Powertrain Control Module is but does show a close-up sketch of how to replace it. From another picture, I think the PCM is located in the engine compartment, probably on the passenger side firewall. It may even protrude through the wall. Look for a big connector, maybe where the AC tubes go through the firewall.

The door locks are controlled by a different module, the Generic Electronic Module (GEM), if you can believe it. It is located under the dash in the steering column area. Remove the instrument panel steering column cover for access.

What are you trying to do? Program a keyless entry transmitter or the keypad on the door? In both cases the first step is to enter the "permanent factory code" which is maybe what you are looking for? They don't say where to find it.

vince4

Guy, I found the PCM in the Wiring Diagram manual (not part of the service manual set, you have to buy separate if you want any wiring info). It is located on or in the firewall, passenger side, above the evap canister. It has a large horizontal connector. You will have to remove the PCM to see the label. Disconnect the battery before disconnecting the PCM connector.

Rob, thanks for the tip on the DPFE. I found it in the manual, it is part of the EGR system, not the PCV system. It stands for Differential Pressure Feedback Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve or sensor. whew. This sensor controls EGR flow by measuring the pressure drop across a metering orifice. The EGR valve is opened or closed using vacuum via a solinoid which is controlled by the differential pressure sensor. This way the EGR valve is used as a pressure regulator which results in a well controlled flow rate. The two engine versions use a different type of DPF device but both are an electronic sensor with vacuum inputs.

sableatl

I recently had my 2000 Sable LS into the dealer to check into a hissing sound that occurred during acceleration. The diagnosis was a bad catalytic converter, which was replaced under warranty. The car seemed to run very well for a couple of weeks, but I sense that the problem is back again. Not sure the car's performance is suffering, but the sound is kind of annoying. Before I take it back to the dealer again, I thought it was worth exploring whether anybody else had experienced this problem. If so, how did you resolve it?

gwizz

Thanks all for the help. I found the keycode. It is UNDER the security module / fuse block below the driver's side dash. The entire module has to be removed from the firewall so the keycode sticker can be seen, since they put it on the backside of the ecm. I have now re-programmed the keyless entry!

Thanks again.

strokeoluck

Hi All, well my local shop fixed the steering noise problem!!! I asked how he did it and he said "trade secret"...silicone. I have no idea what form "silicone" comes in (aside from you know where and I haven't had the pleasure yet of experiencing THAT sort of silicone) but he said that's what he used. I pretended like I knew what he was talking about - what guy wants to admit he doesn't know this stuff!?!? He didn't charge me for it and the wheel is quiet as can be. I have no idea where he put it either but I'm guessing right where the wheel meets the column.

He also replaced the DPFE and the car runs fine now. If anyone ever wants to try and replace it I think it would be fairly easy to do. It's located in an awkward spot (what isn't in a car these days) but looks pretty simple. Find the EGR valve on top of the engine and go back, towards the windshield, about 12-18" and you'll find the DPFE tucked behind the engine near the windshield.

- Rob

vince4

Guy, I'm curious what you did in case I ever need to do it. Why did you need the code? Keypad or key FOB?

And how did you know to look for the code there? I didn't see any mention of it in the manual.

badgerfan

You must be my long lost twin separated at birth. I drive a 2000 Taurus and my wife drives a 1996 Dodge Caravan. I believe we have both the same vehicles and same model years. Only one major repair on the Caravan so far, AC crapped out last year. Taurus has been flawless, going back to the dealer only once for a wiper recall that had exhibited no problems. No rattles or creaks either, unlike some of the owners of recent Camries and Accords.

jtenbusc

My 97 SHO has a rough idle, an occassional stumble especially when sitting at a stoplight in gear. I've replaced the air and fuel filters to no avail. The car has just under 80K miles and has been maintained very well - any other 'easy fixes' before I take it in to the dealer? Any help is appreciated.

badgerfan

I had my first problem with my 2000 Taurus SES. It developed a clunking sound in the front suspension.

I had it into dealer service dept last night. They found and fixed the problem quickly-I was there less than 45 minutes. They replaced the front stabilizer (sway bar) connecting links. Problem is solved and since I was still under warranty, no cost to me. Based on the statement, I would have paid $82.33 if it wasn't under warranty.

So, if you start hearing suspension clunks, the front stabilizer bar connecting links may be the culprit. Hopefully the new ones were redesigned and will last longer than the first. (26K miles)

Service was fast and professional and service department has excellent hours, 7AM-11PM weekdays and 8AM-5PM Saturday. I got the car in for service on the same day I called.