Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

badgerfan

Glad to see yours is holding up well. My 2000 SES is doing well too, but I am about 70,000 miles behind you, though I did have three minor warranty repairs that miraculously managed to all occur in the last two months of my warranty coverage-wiper motor quit, sway bar links loosened up and caused suspension clatter and coolant overflow tank was replaced.

Mine is rattle free as well, as was my 1990 Taurus through ten years and 98K miles.

wijoco

Well, if I were to fill out a Consumer Reports survey of my 97 LX Duratech/AX4N, it would look like a black-dot inkblot test. I'll start with a repost of my earlier fuss two years ago:
" 97 Taurus LX Duratec 56,000 mi:

Numerous trivial problems since its purchase with 15,000 mi...
Since purchase, power steering system made a miserable groaning noise while braking and turning at low speed. Dealer adjusted a pressure release valve in steering pump, and the problem is now less frequent.
Broken shift indicator (console shift), replaced under warranty.
Keyless entry retainer broke at 25,000, now works intermittently
Fuel guage suffers from a ridiculous variation since purchase. It fluctuates by as much as 1/3 tank while driving, depending on direction and angle. NEVER registers more than 3/4 tank, even when full. Dealer supposedly replaced sending unit in tank at 30,000mi (my cost), but condition never improved.
Washer fluid light quit at 30,000, dealer supposedly replaced washer motor (my cost), but didn't fix it.
Passenger front window motor quit at 40,000 mi (my cost).
Over the past month, engine accessories have been squealing, and the charge light came on last weekend. Upon inspection, I found the washer fluid hose torn and spitting on the drive belt! Rigged up the hose with gasket seal and duct tape, hit the drive belt with some belt sticky to stop the slippage.
Wiper/washer switch is very erratic, and seems to be worsening.
Driver's seat seems to be loosening from the floorboard (power seats). I don't know if it's a bad motor or loosening bolts in the floorpan, but it's getting unnerving.
Slightly more serious:
Continual rotor warpage (4 wheel discs), all four machined, then replaced, then machined again. Now warped again with the hot Va weather.
Breakdown @ 55,000 mi. (Failed fuel pump)"

Since that point, now at 75,000:
-A mystery coolant leak on the passenger side of the engine, very slight (that's how they all start), has been temporarily patched up with a generous helping of Bars Leaks additive. It's not the overflow tank.
-Another rotor resurfacing was necessary over the summer. That now makes two complete replacement sets and two complete resurface jobs in 75,000 miles. There's no doubt in my mind that soemthing besides rotors is wrong with the brakes on the car, possible dragging calipers, but I've convinced myself I don't care anymore.
-ABS system failure. Intermittent ABS light while cruising above 30 mph. I believe it's a wheels sensor, dealer guessed it was the ABS module. A $600 shot in the dark? Not with my money. Pulled the fuse and let it ride.
-A deep groaning/whining noise during cold weather startup, goes away during warmup. It's an accessory bearing, possible water pump or steering pump, but I can't isolate it even with stethoscope yet. I expect it to fail within a year.
-Premature steering rack wear has led to a large 1-1 1/2" dead spot in the center of the steering. Irritating, but probably not a safety issue yet. Either worn steering rack gear or inner tie rods.
-Power seat track is again loosening and clunking.
-Cigarette lighter disintegrated one day while removing the cell phone charger, $120 replacment. -Multifunction switch intermittently fails in wet weather (nice timing) and needs replacement.
-Mystery clunking/popping in front end during warm weather have yet to be isolated. I may not care anymore.
And now the bad news (drumroll please):
-Transmission failure at 75,000. I never liked this AX4N transmission, and I think it may have picked up on my feelings. It has decided to no longer downshift into 1st gear after cruising, instead preferring to drop into neutral, and has been diagnosed by a Ford technician as simply needing a rebuild/replacement. $2,700? No problem. Pocket change.
I don't even bother to mention all the "little" things that have gone wrong with this car like a front signal light seal bursting and filling with water (requiring removal of the entire headlamp assembly), dashboard peeling up off the top of the instrument cluster and having to be re-glued with engine gasket sealant, lots of broken/rotted,leaking exterior trim pieces, etc.
I have taken care of this car, including proper fluid and filter changes in all systems at correct intervals, and all the stuff you generally do to take care of a vehicle. What I am about to say is not from a spirit of anger or revenge, and I am certainly not launching a campaign to stop people from buying Ford products. I am profoundly -PROFOUNDLY- disappointed with this vehicle. It is not at all an exaggeration to say, in terms of things gone wrong, that this is the worst car I have ever owned. I very likely will never buy another new or nearly new Ford product based on this experience (and combined past experiences). I will continue to buy older Ford models at auctions or from friends at cheap prices, but only as a hobby. I feel no loyalty to a brand that has shown me so little itself. It's funny, but I feel no panic or sorrow when I read about American auto manufacturers struggling and Japanese makers like Honda/Nissan/Toyota dominating the industry. It just seems like market forces adjusting as they should. Thanks for your time.

golfmannow

I have a 97 Taurus GL sedan with 121k miles on it. I have taken extremely good care of the car and my 2 major expenses (thank goodness I bought an extended warranty that covered these items) were:
(1) Transmission failure that required replacement at 97K
(2) 6 CD changer broken at 70K

In both of these cases, they broke for no apparent reason. I can accept a problem w/ the CD player but I was unhappy about the transmission since I followed the manual for proper care in changing the AT fluid/filter. Besides the transmission, this car jas been good to me.

Would I buy another Ford product? Not sure. In fact, I am debating whether to keep the car longer or go ahead and purchase another vehicle. Ideally, I would like to keep this car longer but I am not confident the car will last (no problems but just a feeling). Although this car has been "relatively" trouble-free, tend to think I got lucky as the quality of this car had always made me alittle nervous (hence my paranoia in babying it). My only other complaint is the depreciation of the car. Overall, one could argue that I have had a reasonably good experience...

wijoco

What failed in your transmission? Was it the AX4S?

shank6

Hi Guys :
First, to wijoco. Sorry you've had so many problems with your Taurus. Do you know the past history of the car?. Most former rentals can be cowboyed pretty badly. Some of my friends have had
pretty good luck with executive cars.
 
I had a new 99 Taurus SE and had alot of problems with it.I now have 2000 and 2002 Sable LS Premiums, and can't say enough good about them. I read your entire post wijoco, and with all due respect, you made me laugh my [non-permissible content removed] off! You have a definite flair for comedic writing!!.

Anyone had any problemd with their rear defroster?. Mine quit the other day on the 2000 Sable. I replaced the relay in the fuse box but no luck. Dealer says it may be a module ?

wijoco

I bought it in 98 with around 15,000 miles on it, so I kind of doubt it was a rental. That's low miles to be released from service, plus rental agencies rarely buy the "LX" models. I would agree with that theory if I purchased the car with 30,000 and began immediately having trouble, but the number of constant problems spread out over 5 years make me think it was built in some kind of evil vortex of bad designs, bad supplier parts, and bad assembly. We'll just call it "Chicago." Heh-heh.

"I had a new 99 Taurus SE and had alot of problems with it.I now have 2000 and 2002 Sable LS Premiums, and can't say enough good about them. I read your entire post wijoco, and with all due respect, you made me laugh my [non-permissible content removed] off! You have a definite flair for comedic writing!!."

Thanks. I meant for it to be more of a tragedy than a comedy, but I'll take applause where I can get it.

"Anyone had any problemd with their rear defroster?. Mine quit the other day on the 2000 Sable. I replaced the relay in the fuse box but no luck. Dealer says it may be a module ?"

Mine still works. Trade you for a transmission! No? OK.
Did the grid fail completely? Does the defrost light come on? You know a signal wire goes through the defrost switch to the body module. The body module decides whether to turn it on, if so, sends another signal to a small relay. the relay is energized and closes a larger circuit providing power to the defrost grid. That doesn't tell you what broke, but it helps if you want to start chasing wires. In my humble experience, computer chips, modules, etc are blamed a lot for failures, but it's usually the fault of mechanical parts or bad wiring. Good luck.

s852

You were actually pretty lucky with that. If it had lasted another 3,000 miles, you would have thrown away the extended warranty money PLUS had to pay for the transmission out of your own pocket anyway.
Many people buy an extended warranty and most of the problems end up occuring after the vehicle passes 100K miles. They end up double-paying.

riswami

Thanks. I didn't know that there was a low washer fluid light. I'll have to check my owners manual.Then again I check mine regulary and have never run low and I live in Rhode Island.

badgerfan

There is also a low coolant level warning light. I had this light go on when my Tuarus was still under warranty, even though the overflow tank was still full. Dealer ended up replacing the whole tank. I would have guessed I had a bad coolant level sensor, but they replaced the tank and the light hasn't come on since. Bit of a mystery as to what a bad tank had to do with the light coming on, when it didn' appear to be leaking, but since the repair was on Ford's dollar, I didn't care what they replaced, as long as it was fixed.

ehenness

Depends on what year your car is, and the engine. My '98 Vulcan has neither a low washer fluid light nor a low coolant light. I think the Duratech in '98 did get the low coolant light. Ford must have cut back on some things over time. Some '98s may have these on all cars--my car was built in May of 1998, so it could have been a late changeover.

This is in comparison to the 1996-1997 cars versus mine. The '00-'03 cars use the same instrument cluster as the '99s but I don't know if the lights were used or not in the later cars.

Note that there are still visible indicators in the instrument panel for these on my car, but there's no bulb behind them, and the factory service manual shows no wires/circuits for them either. I believe there is no mention of them (as there should not be)in my owner's manual either.

badgerfan

Entire interior of Taurus/Sable was redesigned for the 2000 model year. Instrument cluster is different shape, so in my opinion, sensors and indicators cannot be assumed to be the same when going from 1999 and earlier to 2000-2003 models. Referring to my particular car, a 2000 SES with Duratec, there is both a low coolant light and low washer fluid light. If the low coolant light does not exist on Vulcan equipped Tauri of this era, I do not know, but I would be surprised if they are different. Instrument cluster was redesigned again with the 2004 freshening, so all bets are off once again as to what sensors exist and do not exist.

alcan

They've ben around for a while, depends on the trim level of the car. My 93 SHO has low coolant and washer fluid indicator lights.

golfmannow

s852 - I agree I was lucky (count my blessings) but it was a calculated gamble. When I originally researched the taurus, the transmission was then considered risky. After my old Galant had the same transmission problems, I made up my mind that I would by a warranty and take the risk. I am a believer of a warranty on cars that have a suspect reliability record. Now if I can only figure out what my next car would be.......

shank6

Wow, check this out you guys. Picked up my 2000 Sable LS today (snowing like crazy up here in NH) and here is the wordage from the tech :

"NEEDS REAR GLASS. TABS GLUED ON AND REAR GLASS AND PROPER VOLTAGE NOT GOING THROUGH MATERIAL "

This expert analysis cost me $35.00. Did he even put a voltage meter on this?. Also how can the grid totally fail?. I've done nothing unusual with objects in the trunk. Anyone know the cost of a new window, or should I seek a second opinion.

fdthird

Second opinion...try a non dealer

danielj6

Yesterday I drove twice in the middle of severe foul weather which here in NY doesn't get much worth than this. Blizzard and howling winds.

I drove to the Gym in the morning (some 15 miles away) with several inches of snow on the ground. No big deal really for any car. However on the way back my station wagon, was almost buried in snow. Actually I should say plowed under. It was also stuck. I had a shovel but didn't need it. Rocking it 2 or 3 times back and forth with the TC engaged caused it to come out.

The 15 miles back were a great deal more difficult to negotiate than before. While approaching an intersection the brakes failed to stop the car then I felt a very strong pulsation with a loud noise under my foot. Car stopped in the middle of the intersection. It was a scare indeed. Once on the highway, it was a white out condition with almost zero visibility. Police SUV's were guiding the way with their lights.

The moral or this is that my Sable performed superbly under extreme weather. It rode confidently, inspiring security, all systems performed very well. This is one of the cars in my shopping list for my next car, no doubt. Solid, powerful, secure, comfortable, dependable.

Every once in a while I whine regarding some built quality issues, but Mercury Sable has very good points and great value qualities.

riswami

Well I checked my owner's manual in two places yesterday (instrument cluster warning lights and windshield washer areas) and I see no mention of a low washer warning light. So post 1065 is probably claiming something is broken that doesn't exist.

Just for the groups info. My 97 is a former rental. It is a myth that these cars are all badly abused. I see that theme on these boards. Until someone comes up with satistical data to support that theory I'll ignore them. I have 101k now and have had two repairs, a door switch and a sensor. Total out of pocket 400. Yeah it was badly abused!

I'm also skeptical of post where people say I really have taken care of this car. I'm willing to bet that isn't the case in many instances.

wijoco

"Well I checked my owner's manual in two places yesterday (instrument cluster warning lights and windshield washer areas) and I see no mention of a low washer warning light. So post 1065 is probably claiming something is broken that doesn't exist."

Here's the thing, Riswami: Just because you don't see something doen't prove it doesn't exist. Owner's manuals vary and illustrations aren't always correct. Yes, my 97 LX does indeed have a low washer fluid light, and yes it did fail.

"I'm also skeptical of post where people say I really have taken care of this car. I'm willing to bet that isn't the case in many instances."

Yeah, I'm kind of the same way. Well, not exactly. See, I'm skeptical of posts where someone openly questions the veracity of someone else's experience. Yeah, that's what I'm skeptical of, Riswami.

fdthird

Is it just me, or have they gotten really bad lately? We've got a 2000 and two 2001s and I really don't think they give you as much info as they did way back when. Also, lots of generic pictures that obviously saves them money but leaves a lot to be desired! Lots of legal stuff, though.

tjdepere2004

steering wheel squell when taurus first started up. Does not happen going straight out of lot but turn and squell. Is it pump or r&p? 2000se with 51000 miles. thanks for response.

badgerfan

Probably your serpentine belt that drives all the engine accessories is slipping initially when it is cold. You may need to replace the belt as it is getting old and cracked. Otherwise it could be your tensioner pulley that spring loads the tension on this belt, or I suppose it is possible your power steering pump is going, but more likely it is just your belt is slipping a bit.

danielj6

My Merc. Sable makes a similar noise (I call it whine). I just had may S.W.winterized and my mechanic, upon checking the system, told me that it's the power steering pump, but that there is no loss of steering or danger and to try to leave with it for now. It'll cost $275 dollars to replace it.

snowman

There are 2 different problems here and people are quick jumping to finger pointing for diagnose.

Whining and squelling are different symptoms. If you have whining you have a pump problem. And, since you weren't clear about your problem, I assume you hear a sound from steering column like two hard rubber (plastic) component rubbing each other.

I have that squelling too and only winter time comes up. It is coming from steering column and definetely somewhere above gas-brake pedals.
This was developed last winter. If you keep drive your car 1/2 hour more with heat running, mine goes away. I think it is related to lubrication issue. I remember some of the folks here were discussing it. But it was the end of winter and soon wheather got warmed and everybody forgot. Now it is came back.

Whining is for sure pump related. your pump may be going bad. If this is the pump, it will always whine and won't go away and time to time, if it gets worse, you may loose your power steering. My pump replaced at 32K. I was loosing the power on steering.

Belt causes high pitch squelling like you moving your finger nail on unfinished surfaces (something like blackboard in schools). You can ged rid of by using belt dresser, a can of spray. But permanent solution is replacing the belt.

So, now I am sure you will able to categorize your issue with your steering.

badgerfan

I agree with your more complete explanation. I was responding to the tjdepere statement of a "squeal" which to led me first to the conclusion it was likely a serpentine belt problem.

By the way I am not sure what "squelling" is-maybe squealing without a spellcheck? Or is it spelled squeel? :-)

shank6

Sounds like the title of a porno movie, but I had the same problem in my 2000 Sable LS about 3 months ago.

Dealer said the power steering fluid had lost its viscosity, and replaced the fluid at their cost. The squeals came right back and had them replace the serpentine belt. No more noise after that.

danielj6

I looked up the word squelling in a good dictionary and it wasn't there. However, based on the spelling it gave me similar words. Squealing and squalling were the closest meaning a shriek or loud scream.

Well, enough of semantics. The English language is very precise. I lack the technical/mechanical knowledge that people obviously possess here which help clarify the problem for me.

As a side comment, a car that just a bit over 3 years old, with low miles built by a manufacturer who prides itself of "Quality job one" and has been building it for many years, shouldn't be having this problem this early.

snowman

I am kind of disagree. This type of sound may be normal, at least what I am experiencing. I had a brand new Corolla (1994). I had the exact same thing on that car when I turned the AC on. They had to lubricate the column twice.

danielj6

In a previous post there is mention of the serpentine belt. What is it, where is it and what function or does it accomplish?

I had mentioned a problem with the power steering pump to my mechanic. He checked it out and agreed. But if I take the information regarding a possible problem with the serpentine belt and I'm right again, he'd better give me a job at his shop.

wijoco

It's the main drive belt on the passenger side of the engine. It drives all of the accessories.

snowman

You haven't laid out your problem clearly yet. According to you, you have whining; When it comes up? Is it there all the time or just when turning the steering
If I were you I wouldn't rush to conclusion and jump to serpentine belt. Air in steering system gives you whining too.
Of course you mechanic will agree with you, he wants to change your pump. Don't forget, changing unnecessary parts to fix irrelevant problems causes frustration.
Taurus has only one belt and it is visible, you can inspect it yourself.

danielj6

My 2000 Mercury Sable station wagon with 25000 miles has developed a sort of whining sound which is transmitted through the steering wheel whenever it is turned right or left.

Initially I took the car to the shop and mechanics checked it only to find nothing wrong with steering components, worn parts, etc. They lubricated the rack and pinion and this quieted the whining sound for a few days. Now it is back louder than before. There is no loss of steering whatsoever.

On my second visit to the shop it was recommended that the power steering pump be replaced. A Lincoln-Mercury dealer I spoke to over the phone the same day told me that according to my description of the problem it sounds like the power steering is going.

Snowman: After 4-5 months living with this problem I'm continuing to rule out possibilities. I'm not reacting emotionally about it nor I'm letting this problem frustrate me and cloud my thinking. I'm very reluctant to take it to the dealer because it's out of warranty.

When I went to my mechanic for the second time with this whining noise he told me that he doubts the power steering needs replacing in a car with such low mileage. I believe he is being cautious and is not trying to persuade me to change parts as the dealer would make me do.

I hope this clarifies the issue for you, and thanks for the helpful advice guys.

Mr_Shiftright

I'm not sure how you "lubricate" a rack and pinion anyway.

This sounds like a power steering pump in its symptoms except that the sound would not be trasmitted to the steering column--so this leads me toward the steering rack as culprit #1---perhaps an internal issue with the valving.

wijoco

If the steering pump is failing, then yes it can transmit feedback through the steering wheel. The steering pump provides hydraulic pressure which assists the steering rack, so any variation in the pressure can be transmitted through the steering wheel, whether it's a slow warble feeling or a high pitched vibration. One thing to try before replacing any parts is simply changing the fluid out. It's possible it has become aerated, which will cause excessive noise.

danielj6

When the rack and pinion were lubricated the noise subsided in volume but it never disappeared and returned full force in 3 days.

My mechanic when he called me that morning did mention the issue with valving as another possibility.

The pump was bled 3 times.

As an unrelated event, today my rear windshield wiper doesn't work. Something frozen somewhere?
It's rough to drive a station wagon without a rear wiper in heavy snow. Rear defroster helped somewhat.

10years

Cant believe I'm asking this, but how do I replace my burned out left rear break light? It's a 98 SE sedan. After pulling back the carpet in the trunk I could not pull the black rubber nipple off, is there a trick ? Anyway I does not appear that this may be correct anyway. Do I need to also undo the three nuts and pull back or off the metal plate covering the inside light assembly too?

In advance, Thank You.

alcan

Rear Turn Signal And Brake Lights, Sedan

Open the trunklid.
Remove the quarter trim panel.
Remove the three retaining nuts for the taillamp assembly.
Carefully pull the rear lamp assembly away from the vehicle.
Detach the bulb socket electrical connector.
Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise approximately 1/4 of a turn and remove the socket from the lamp assembly.
Remove the bulb from the socket by pulling the bulb straight out.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

ehenness

On the Vulcan-engined cars there's a certain bit of whine (or groan) that is normal--this is the same pump that Ford has used for years. You hear it rather than feeling it though. This pump is identified by a reservoir internal to the pump. The Duratechs use a different style pump with a separate reservoir connected to the pump by hoses. The SHO uses a third pump that also have a separate reservoir.

I don't think you have the normal whine, since you say this started recently and also you feel it in the steering column. I am pointing it out because you may find some techs saying 'it's normal, they all do that' which, if you have a Vulcan engine may well be true. (If you have a Duratech, it shouldn't make much noise at all.) They may not be lying, but they might be missing what you're telling them.

danielj6

I didn't know about the difference you're pointing out between the two engines. Mine is a Duratech and the whine is really loud.

My gas mileage has been decreasing from 20 mpg combined driving to 15 mpg. I don't know whether this mileage drop is in any way connected or related remotely to the steering pump problem.

I'll bite the bullet, make all necessary repairs, and keep the car until April which it'll be 4 years that I bought it. Then I will trade it, bite another bitter pill (depreciation) but purchase something with a track record of bullet proof reliability.

snowman

Such as...?

snowman

I am sure you mean Toyota and Honda by bullet proof reliability. Which one you prefer, a Toyota with an engine prone to accumulate sludge or a Honda with defective transmission, disk break system which warps every 4-5K and decreased built quality...
And one advise for you, don't waste your time to look for bulletproof car. Every manufacturer has it's pros and cons.

danielj6

I won't be put in a position to defend Honda or Toyota. I said before that I don't have loyalties to any car manufacturer. I buy what I consider value at a particular time, and I do it with the information I possess at the time of purchase and with a minimum of emotionality. Yet, I love cars and anything on four wheels.

This thread belongs to Taurus/Sable. Discussing others here would broaden the field and inevitably create road rage. The car a have or the one I'll own some day will never be the extension of my ego.

fdthird

Interesting post...I think some people want what can not be attained.

eagle32

I have a 2000 Taurus with a duratec engine. I get an oil smell in the passenger compartment after the car warms up. This smell comes when you pull away from a light. When you get up to road speed it disappears. The ford dealership said that some of these cars have a smell that is caused by a purge vent for the auto trans. I have taken it to the dealership many times and the best they can do is change the transmission fluid which seems to help for a short time. They said that this problem exists in many cars for this year. Does anyone else have this problem? Has anyone figured out a fix for this problem?

10years

This weekend I replaced both brake lamps thanks to your clear instuctions.

alcan

You're welcome.

carlady9

We have a 2000 Ford Taurus with 56000 miles. About 2 weeks ago the left front coil spring broke while driving 70 MPH on the interstate. My husband was able to get off the road safely, but Ford (and our dealer) was unwilling to admit that this is a safety defect and an abnormal repair. However, there are 12 NHTSA complaints about the 2000 Taurus/Sable and no complaints of this nature on any of the 8 other midsize cars I looked at. Has this happened to anyone else?

kbarry

Any tranny or brake problems known on the 03's? My SEL deluxe has a terrible brake shudder and a clunky tranny... anyone else having this problem.

wijoco

Premature rotor warpage has been a problem throughout the years for the Taurus, so it's not too unusual. What is the transmission doing? A sluggish 1-2 shift isn't too unusual for Ford automatic transaxles.

bigdan1

Anybody out there have any problems with transmission on 2000 or 2002 Taurus? I have one of each. So far, so good. However, I owned a 1993 and a 1995 Ford Taurus. I had to replace transmission once on the 1993 and twice on the 1995. High mileage on both old cars at the time (over 175,000 miles on both).
Except for tranny problems, I love my Taurus, which is why I bought again. Thanks.

wijoco

Well, the Taurus transmission really is the same one from the 80s. Ford automatic transaxles have never been that great, but I would say the latest generation AX4S and AX4N are the best in terms of performance and reliability. Ford has updated and improved that transaxle for close to 20 years now, but they still have their quirks. GM and the top Japanese brands are still ahead of Ford in terms of transaxle reliability, but if you take care of them you'll probably get your money's worth.