Clutch Questions

mazda323

Just a word of caution if you plan on doing it yourself. If you are not sure where the tranny fill plug is on your car, have a knowledgeable person identify it for you. They are not always on the side of the tranny (ie Toyota and Mazda).

bnormann

...you need to know how the level of oil is measured. If the fill hole is on the side, the correct level is usually to the bottom of the hole. Gee, that works well. Just pour oil in until it starts running out. Couldn't have designed a more fool proof system if I tried.

{%^) your host, Bruce

br459

Thanks for the advice. I will have my father help me in this endeavor. I don't want to mess up the Camry or my wife will kill me.

Thanks for the response guys.

ccotenj

this might be one of those things that is better left to paying someone a few bucks to put it up on a lift and do it right. get the fluid and have someone else do it.

bruce, shouldn't everything be as easy as that in life???

-Chris

butch11

On some vehicles it is easier to change the tranny fluid/oil than it is to change engine oil. If you do it yourself-suggest you get one of those filler funnels that has a clear plastic tube attached-really makes it simpler-they are about $5 at any aftermarket parts store. Also I would use whatever the owners manual suggests-if it is an automatic-use exactly what the manufacturer sells. Know people who have used an aftermarket fluid for auto trannies and have had to rebuild their tranny in 5K. Also when filling the tranny-park it on a level place-not enough fluid/oil = toasted tranny. been there-done that.

mikeb4445

Changed the clutch in the truck , after the install the truck is now very hard to shift into gear . At times I have to wait or try to force the truck in 4th or 5th before I can try to shift it into 1st , I never shift into reverse until I check to make sure it will go into another gear first, other wise I grind the s _ _ _ out of the gears. It feels like it takes awhile for the gear box to open and allow me to shift into the gear I need to .
I have taken the truck back 3 times each time they bleed the system and it works for a day or less . They tell me all the hydraulics are working fine , prior to this I never had a problem.
Any help would be appreciated

0patience

Either the slave cylinder isn't working properly or the clutch master cylinder is bleeding by.If it wasn't done by a Ford dealer,there is a bleeding procedure for it and it is in a TSB for those and other models.

wrgraham

My old 86 toyota pickup has gotten quite rusty but still runs strong at 198K miles. I still have the original clutch. It is clearly quite worn, but I baby it and do all right. I expect to keep the
vehicle another year or two. I dont much mind driving like this, but could I be causing any added damage that I will regret? Like maybe having to get a more costly repair before I call it quits?

mak9

I have a standard Corolla 2000 and I have a question.

Last time I had to stop on a very steep driveway (uphill). I pulled up the handbrake before I tried to take my foot off the brake on to the gas pedal. As soon as I take off my foot of the brake, my car started rolling back( with the handbrake on). And I push on the gas a little bit hard and release the clutch at the same time (and the handbrake).
I was able to get the car up but I got this burning smell of rubber. Could it be my clutch or my handbrake that is burning somehow? Do I need to fix my handbrake ? Is the handbrake actually like the brake (rubber). I want to take it for a check.

How bad is it on the clutch (or transmission) if I don't use the handbrake ? The car would roll back and then the clutch disc would need to rotate twice as hard to get car moving forward.

The other thing is why did my handbrake not prevent the car from rolling back. I think I need to check my handbrake.

ccotenj

1) that burning smell you have is likely your clutch and your parking brake.
2) your parking brakes need to be adjusted/fixed.
3) i have never used my parking brakes to get going/stopped on a hill (and i've had mtx cars for years). it's not bad for it (your clutch) if you shift correctly. i'm not sure where you got that theory you spelled out. what's bad for your clutch is that you probably are burning it out by engaging too slowly with too much gas applied at the same time as you are holding the car back with the brakes.

your best bet (in my opinion, anyway), is to NOT use the parking brake as a crutch to avoid learning how to shift cleanly and quickly into first gear to get yourself going on a hill. it IS possible. you've cooked your parking brake in all likelihood by using the method you are now, and in likelihood your pressure plate is probably shot as well (assuming the burning smell is what i think it is).

good luck.

-Chris

mazda323

I would agree partly with ccotenj's post. The buring smell is most likely your clutch. The handbrake would not start to burn and smell unless you drive a distance with it engaged. Even if you shift correctly and swiftly, the car can still roll back a little on steep hills. Like you mentioned, this is not particularly good for the clutch. To prevent wear and tear on the clutch, you need to shift quikly and get moving before the car picks up any backward momentum. It's highly unlikely that you have ruined your pressure plate or your clutch. Just practice quicker shifting on a slitgh hill.
There are some occasions where using the handbrake like you do can help (on a manual tranny). For example, when you're pulling a boat out of a steep boat lauch and want to make sure you don't roll back any further!
As for your question about the handbrake, I don't think you're pulling it hard enough. A handbrake on a new 2000 Corolla should not have any problem holding the car on a steep hill. Make sure you crank the brake more then 3 notches.

mak9

ccotenj and mazda323: Thanks for the comments.

I don't know much about cars but I just want to ask about the pressure plate. What is the role of the pressure plate ?

I notice sometimes when I release the clutch and don't pump enough gas at the same time, I can feel a small jerk (may be this is not the right term but I am sure you will know what I mean) forward. Well I guess it is not a jerk but more like feeling the engagement of the clutch. Sorry I am not an expert on those terms. Is that related to the pressure plate ?

Or may be I am just going nuts about my clutch ....

How can I tell if I my pressure plate is shot ?

mazda323

Think of a pressure plate as a large spring that applies pressure to the clutch. The clutch disc is pressed hard against the engine's flywheel (with over 800 pounds of pressure) when the clutch pedal is not pressed down. Pressing the clutch pedal releases the pressure between the flywheel and the clutch disc.
When trying to get the car moving from 1st gear, the engine and the flywheel are spinning. Releasing the clutch applies the pressure and friction between the flywheel and the clutch disc. This is what drives the car forward.

The friction between the flywheel and the clutch disc is what causes the clutch to wear. To get the max life out of the clutch, you must try to reduce this friction as much as possible. When you are releasing the clutch, you can get some jerking. This is usually called 'shudder' and isn't exactly good for the car. If you shift properly, you shouldn't get any shudder, unless the clutch disc and flywheel are worn. On your 2000 Corolla, I think it's highly unlikely. It's probably more your shifting skills that cause this. If you are still woried, take it in to the dealer and have a mechanic drive it. He will be able to tell you if you are having some major premature wear.

redharmonica

I have a slight problem with my 95' Volkswagon Jetta (29,000 miles.) After my car sits through one day of heavy rain, I notice that the next morning it is hard to start and has the tendency to stall. Furthermore, the clutch slips terribly in every gear. I practically have to floor it in order to get it out of first without stalling the engine. After the car warms up, however, and things "dry out," the clutch is fine and the car does not stall. Can anyone tell me what's going on, and give some advice as to how this can be fixed?

Thanks

butch11

Have a 72 VW Van, have not driven it in a while and the clutch is rusted to the pressure plate. Previously I have been able to break it loose by starting it in gear-it is really stuck this time.

Any suggestions or any adjustments I can make to the clutch or do I try till it breaks loose or something breaks.

thanks

divavolv

I'm getting ready to pick up a used car for my teenage driver. (Egads!) I'm debating the merits of manual or automatic. Do the automatics last longer? We're in a relatively flat area so hills should not be much of a problem - but I have noticed a leadfoot tendancy. I'm thinking about a Geo Prism, probably about 5 yrs old. What would you suggest?

bobs5

Great decision going for a used car for the new driver.

Manual or automatic? I guess this depends on the skill of your new driver. It may be easier to hone the driving skills with an automatic for the first car.

"Do automatics last longer?" Depends on how well the maintenance has been performed. I have had problems with automatics myself. Never a problem with a manual. 145k miles on my car now, original clutch, not a peep of trouble.

"Leadfoot tendancy" ha ha ha. That was me in the beginning. I had a 2 speed vehicle, full gas or full brake.

Which brand of car to get ?????
See what is around your area for sale, prices, etc. Also check reliability reports about different makes of cars.

Good luck to you.

divavolv

Thanks for your reply. I've found an automatic Chevy Prism LSi, 1998, for $9000. It seems to be a pretty good deal for the local prices. Reliablity reports on this are good.
Don't we all remember our early driving days? I started on a 12 yr old Austin Healy. My first clutch experience was when I took it for a test drive - starting uphill! I loved the Healy. For 2 years I had no problems with it (Amazing!) And I, too, had that leadfoot. So why worry about my kids starting out? Maybe I just want to tie the car to the house so they can't go to far...

allchecks

I recently inherited this car from my daughter. Every time I push the clutch pedal in it squeaks. I have squirted, oiled and greased the pedal return spring and everything around it, but I can't stop the squeak? Has anyone else ever had and solved this problem?

bfisheril

I have same prob with '97 Ford Ranger. Seems to be coming from the front side of the firewall, and the lubing I've done to the clutch pedal connections inside the cab doesn't fix the prob.

Saw an article in newspaper several months ago where lady asked for help for this problem. Article said it was either 1) a lube problem or 2) an internal problem with the clutch cylinder

Sorry I can't provide solution. If you find one, PLEASE post it here.

mazda323

Newer cars use nylon spacers on the clutch pedal pivot point. They apparentle never require lubrication. Maybe using something like silicone spray could help. I've seen this is several different cars from different manufacturers. On my Toyota, I've been successfull with the silicon spray, although it sometimes squeaks when it realy hot and the car's parked in the sun.

jamesk9

I used to own a 1990 Baretta that came from the factory with a 5 speed Getrag (sp?) transmission. Until the day I sold it, the only bad thing I could say about the car was the premature front rotors wear and poor head gasket. However, the 5 speed had 330,000 KM (206K miles) on the original clutch, and it is still running for the new buyer.

In 1990, I was one of those young kids with a cheap pocket rocket and cheap gas (under 2 dollars cdn an imperial gallon). Now the only thing that holds true is the original clutch idea.

I still to this day wonder how it lasted so long with my daily abuse?

toddrsutton

Hello

My wife and I bought a new 1995 Isuzu Rodeo in
March of 1995. Our 1st clutch burnt out at 35,000
miles. The dealer replaced it for ~$750. The 2nd
clutch brunt out at 65,000 miles and a local
mechanic replaced it. I wrote a letter to Isuzu
saying that the clutch design is bad and that this
is unsafe. I wanted them to pay for the
replacement. They said no.

Now the 3rd clutch has burnt out at 100,000
miles!!!

My wife and I do not ride the clutch. We have
both driven manual transmissions that have lasted
beyond 100,000 miles each (original clutch is
still
there).

Has anybody seen this?

What can I do?

thanks ts

delawaredan

I have a 2000 Rodeo 4WD with the 5spd transmission that I use to tow a 2,000 lb camper (towing capability: 4,500lbs). I'm very concerned about the longetivity of the clutch. It seems that no matter how smooth it goes when I back the camper into a spot I always smell the clutch burning. I've tried to stay off the clutch when I'm backing up (but of course that's hard to do and still move at the slow speed necessary) - but I still get the burning smell.

I've tried shifting it into 4WD-Low, which has helped some, but I'm concerned about damaging the 4WD system.

Also, I've read some reports that suggest that you shouldn't use 5th gear when your towing. This doesn't seem accurate to me, because I think 4th gear is too low for highway driving - even towing.

Anybody have any thoughts???

spokane

By all means, delawaredan, use low range when doing low-speed maneuvers. As you obviously know, this reduces the need for clutch slippage. I don't recall what type of transfer case you have, but even without a center differential, the "squirming" that your drivetrian experiences during the brief positioning of your trailer will not cause damage because it is occurring for a distance of only a few yards. Driving for many miles on good-traction surfaces with no center differential, of course, would be hard on U-Joints but your situation involves a negligible travel distance in this mode and the joints are designed to accept occasional levels of this high torque. Sorry I can't comment on what sounds like an inherent weakness in this clutch design.

As to the gear choice for highway towing, it depends on the weight and wind resistance of the trailer. I would stay in fifth gear as long as the engine felt pretty responsive. However, if you have any doubt due to a headwind or slight upgrade, downshift. Don't worry about staying in 4th gear for many miles if necessary. Driving in the lower gear reduces the combustion pressure and increases the water pump speed ... factors which have a favorable effect on engine longevity even though the engine noise is a bit higher.

preludeluv

I recently bought a 94 prelude vtec with 100k miles, and the clutch is just starting to slip. I'm curious if I should just leave everything OEM or if the more expensive clutches last longer or shift better? I definetly have a bit of a leadfoot so I guess I need to take that into consideration. Also what about the flywheel? Everyone says a lightened flywheel is great, but wouldn't it idle rough? Any suggestions?

-Mike

0patience

Get the OEM clutch assembly and have the flywheel turned.

pitel

Friends,
when i switch gears, sometimes i can hear a metallic click sound from the shifter ( the clutch pedal a that time is pressed to the floor).
Sometimes the sound is not present.
There seems to be no correlation with temperature.
Is it bad?

ccotenj

during the throw or when you hit the gear?

-Chris

pitel

Chris (ccotenj), I am not very familiar with "throw or when you hit the gear" slang - sorry. Let me describe - 1.i press the clutch pedal; 2.i move shifter out of gear to Neutral
3. I put the shifter into gear.
The clicking sound happens on the step #3.

ccotenj

is it a "clunk" or a "click"? sometimes i get a clunking when i'm not fully de-clutched...

is there any resistance to getting into gear?

-Chris

pitel

Chris (ccotenj), the sounds reminds me the one when locking/unlocking mechanical lock. I'm pretty sure that this sound happens also when i fully de-clutch . Thanks for the help.
-Boris

ccotenj

i see from your profile you are driving a 2000 m coupe... frankly, if you think you hear something wrong with it, i'd take it to the dealer and have them check it out...

sorry i can't be of more help, "noises" are hard to figure out if you can't hear them yourself, if you know what i mean...

good luck. go see the dealer.

-Chris

stx1

I have a 97 F150 STX I have had the slave cylinder replaced 3 times since 97. The last time being about 8 months ago. I am now having a squeaky clutch again, and was wondering if anyone else with the same model may be having the same problem. The dealer just keeps changing the slave valve and talking about how they are made out of plastic. The dealer says there has been no recall.

woojac

I have a 1996 Mazda 626 LX v6 that started making a gentle chirping sound a few months ago. The car has 70K miles, but all highway. When I depress the clutch pedal very slightly, the noise goes away. At first the chirping was only noticeable when the car was in gear, now it happens with the car at rest in neutral.

A dealer I called suggested a bearing may need replacing, but the whole transmission would need to be dropped out to get to it. Cost would be $800!

Something to worry about?

Thanks for any help.

pat455

We also have a topic here where we are discussing Mazda 626 Troubles (Topic #1147). If you haven't seen it already, you might want to take look at it.

Good luck.

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

jgori2

The dealer may have been correct. If the chirp only happens when you are not depressing the pedal, then yes, you will most likely need a bearing. The bearing in question would be the release bearing. This bearing presses down the "fingers" of the pressure plate which in turn releases the clutch disk from the flywheel. Now if the noise is most prominent when you are depressing the clutch, you might have a pilot bearing issue. Either way, to fix it will require removing the transmission. Labor rates are pretty standard nationwide, you should be able to get it done for around $600. For years in my shop the standing price for almost any clutch job was $425. I don't think it makes the car unsafe, or will cause you greater expense down the road.
My suggestion would be to monitor the situation. Listen and feel for changes in the noise. If it gets more pronounced, or you start feeling a vibration associated with the noise, get it in the shop as soon as you can. When you are getting it fixed, make sure that the disk, cover (pressure plate), release bearing (throw-out bearing), and the pilot bearing are all replaced. Good luck, and let me know how it turns out.

copytech

Actually, the release bearing would be noisy upon a depreseed clutch pedal, and a pilot bearing noise upon a released clutch pedal (no pressure). A "bell-ringing" noise is usually worn pressure plate fingers. It could be a serious problem, if it's a pilot bearing. Take it to a cluch place and see what they think. Igori2, I think you might have those accidentally flipped, or maybe I'm not reading your post right.

leftty

I have a 2000 elantra 5 speed I have had now for a few mts and I really like the car except for the fact because of a leg problem I am haveing some pain shifting.I need to know if there are clutch pedals that are not as long as standard pedals or some kind of performance pedal that would make it so i don't have to raise my leg so much. I have tried all kinds of seat adjustments but none have worked, I would appriciate any help, Joe.

copytech

Joe, you might check with a company that installs aftermarket wheelchair loaders for vans. They usually have suppliers that can modify vehicles for various physical disabilities. If you can't find any, check with a medical supply house. They might also have an outlet for an aftermarket installer for modification equipment.