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Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Problems
macfle01
Member Posts: 7
HEY ITS BEEN A WHILE BUT I HAVE A OLDSMOBILE AURORA ITS A 95 I HAD IT RUNNING REAL GOOD FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF BUT DURING THAT YEAR I PUT ALOT OF MONEY IN IT TO KEEP IT RUNNING AND IT RAN REALLY GOOD FOR AWHILE BUT THEN I HAD A REALLY BAD INCIDENT ONE DAY AFTER DETAILING IT ALL THE SUDDEN IT CAUGHT FIRE NOW I NEED A ENGINE THE ORIGINAL IS COMPLETLY DESTROYED MY QUESTION IS HOW MUCH SHOULD I PAY FOR A REBUILT ENGINE AND WHAT ELSE MIGHT HAVE BEEN DAMAGED IN THE FIRE AND WHAT WOULD U GUYS SUGGEST I HAVE ALL LOOKED AT I REALLY NEED SOME GOOD HELP SO PLEASE HELP I NEED MY CAR...
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Comments
I feel for you.
I have read that Aurora engines are extremely expensive to rebuild and almost nobody does it. That means a new crate motor or used.
Do you know what caused the fire? If it was a leaking fuel rail, you may have a claim against GM since there is a safety recall for the nylon fuel rails.
Please do not use ALL CAPS.
Les
You are welcome. I am not aware of any engine swaps into Auroras. Swapping a 4.6 Cadillac Northstar has been speculated; some people say it should work, others say no. There are enough differences between '95 Auroras and later years that that swap would at least require the ECM to be swapped, too.
Les
Les
I have had exactly the same problem (same year, same car, etc.) and it has been in to several mechanics with no luck. Have you gotten any help with this problem?
Fred
Stopped and ran a computer engine code check at Monroe, they said it read "misfiring cylinder" - try a tune up first.
I'll try that first after Christmas before a full scan is done at the Cadillac dealer - more to come...
Aurora V8 4.0, 83,000miles, After new exhaust pipes/mufflers, then wheel bearing/ABS sensor replaced with electrical troubleshooting done and corrected in early Dec, a week later (Christmas Eve morning), I cold start and the car runs terribly, chugging, sputtering, etc like I've never heard before from it (cat convert is still good).
Engine light on then even started flashing at times (did not drive when flashed other than the first time for a short distance off the highway). When idling and warmed up to normal operating temp after ~25min, car runs smoothly again (light sometimes went out, sometimes not once running smoothly).
Dealer got a misfire code on #1 cylinder especially but others were random, they changed spark plugs and 1 coil, the other components were fine and tested good. Problem still not fixed with misfire on #1 after many diagnostics: tested wires(boots)-all good, fuel injectors good, all sensors appear working/O2 sensors, MAF, ECM, etc no codes related. They narrowed down to carbon buildup (also called in to GM for second opinion and they agreed/no other thoughts). Two different engine flushes were done 12hr flush with the injectors, I guess a top and bottom flush as they called it). It appears that per dealer (who is reputable and we have a 4 year relationship so trustworthy of being upfront with me, gave me about 1.5 days of these diagnostics w/out additional payment),,, we're down to a "99% sure it's a sticky valve as they've seen before often, thought is since no electrical codes or components are obvious via testing, it's mechanical - carbon buildup in cyl #1 at cold start, car runs poorly for the period of time until it's warm enough for the valve to open up and move freely".
I've been given the GM fuel additive to run through the car which I've driven about 150 miles with (1/4 tank). The dealer has the car back until tomorrow so they can give me a quote on tear down, send out for internal engine cleaning, and so if that works to clean out carbon and possibly resolve?
Once through this terrible run period, the car runs beautifully and with the updates and new plugs, has great power back so I'm torn with what to do.
Any thoughts/similar experiences/new ideas or products to save from the decision of paying another big money output or choosing to sell the car early for a new?
Thanks for any help,
had a similar problem with my 1998 Aurora, car ran great when warmed up but when first starting from cold the car idle fluctuated and the whole car would shake like it was not running on all cylinders. took it in to the GM dealer who diagnosed that the intake manifold needed to be re-torqued. I gave the go ahead for them to do it and it solved the problem. the intake manifold was sucking air which was causing it to have a rough idle when cold. cost for me was about $300.00. good luck
Thanks.
noticed your message.....my 98 had the same issue. I bought the car in the late summer, had no problems until the cold weather seem to hit....I had also changed the wires and the same day after changing the wires, it started to act the same way..it was like someone took the key and turned it off while you were idling at a stop light or stop sign....in neutral or park it did not do it. replaced one crankshaft sensor and it did not do it for the mechanic. brought it home and it started again. replace the other sensor and it did not do it for a couple of weeks. they then had to clean the contacts on the sensor. it has not acted up since (knock on wood). My suggestion is that if you have them replace the sensors make sure they replace both at once and that the contacts at the other end are clean. good luck... i know how frustrating this is, it was like someone just turned the key off and the car would always start right back up.
Please advise.
Also, have you tried new wires?
on this thing. have no other problems with the car.
I can relate to your frustration concerning this. Mechanic replaced the lower crankshaft sensor, brought the car home and 10 minutes later it did it again. Took it back and they replaced the top sensor (harder of the 2). car ran great for 2 weeks then started again. went back to mechanic, they replaced the ignition wires. 3 hours later did it again. went back and freaked out on dealership. they kept the car for 1 week, it too did not have a service engine light on, no codes and they were totally baffled about it. they contacted Gm and after basically going thru the whole car, decided to replace the crankshaft sensors again and clean the contacts when they connected to. this was 1 month ago and the car seems to be running fine and has not acted up since. hopefully this is the end of the stalling issue. it to was stalling at stop signs and traffic lights and would always start right back up. as per several mechanics I have talked to and many searches on the Olds Aurora Website, if you replace the crankshaft sensors, replace them both at the same time and make sure the contact area are clean. hope this helps and good luck
they said if the sensors were acting up, it would leave a trail, i.e. codes.
obviously none of us really knows the answer. went ahead and ordered new sensors
anyway, as it was'nt that much money. if this doesent work, it goes on the block.
having new wires etc. installed. car had been running great untill
about a year ago. does not do it very often, but enough that my wife will not take it more than a couple blocks from home. one thought was that the egr valve was acting up but that checks out all right. hopefully the sensors will arrive shortly and can get them installed early next week.
its been one fine automobile and my wife does not want to give it up, but will in
a heartbeat if this problem isn't fixed soon.
i'll post my results as soon as i can .
As to the failure to start problem, I have not experienced that with my 98 Aurora but it sounds like it may be the starter. I understand that 95 Auroras have had some problems with fuel leaks and possible fires. Do you know if yours has been repaired for this?
reset the change oil light. the manual will guide you as to how to do this.
good luck
I have a 2001 aurora with the 3.5 V6 engine. I recently discovered a siren type noise that increases and decreases with acceleration or deceleration. It only starts when I' up around 60mph. I guess it appears to ha a vacuum leak like symptom. Help if any one has ever had this problem. Thanks
happy motoring
How did you get the water pump to break free from the housing?
I have the special tool but it just will not budge.
i know questions are to be about repairs and such, but i thought i read up here where i coould go and get a copy of 1997 -1995 manual owners do anyone know about this please help thanks.......
http://aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&thread=1440- - 8
here again i would like to know now whether or not if anyone knows how I might get a repair manual for 1997 aurora .....thanks again for the previous help found the page for the owner's manual ....
Low speed operation of both cooling fans occurs when:
1) coolant temp exceeds 229F or
2) trans fluid temp exceeds 302F or
3) a/c operation is requested
High speed operation occurs when:
1) coolant temp reaches 234F or
2) trans fluid temp exceeds 304F or
3) certain DTCs are set
Hope this helps.
Les
Other first thought is the torque converter lockup clutch -- it locks up somewhere around 35-40MPH in overdrive or 4th gear when you're taking it easy. Try driving 35-40MPH with the brake pedal depressed (enough to turn the brake lights on, no need to drag the pads hard) -- this will disable the TCC.