Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Problems

macfle01macfle01 Member Posts: 7
edited October 2018 in Oldsmobile


  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573

    I feel for you.

    I have read that Aurora engines are extremely expensive to rebuild and almost nobody does it. That means a new crate motor or used.

    Do you know what caused the fire? If it was a leaking fuel rail, you may have a claim against GM since there is a safety recall for the nylon fuel rails.

    Please do not use ALL CAPS.

  • macfle01macfle01 Member Posts: 7
    Hey thanx for what you said my question to u is does it have to be a oldsmobile engine or can it just be any type of engine and ill see if i can check and see if it was the fuel rail thanx again if any one else has advice i would love to hear all input thanx...
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573

    You are welcome. I am not aware of any engine swaps into Auroras. Swapping a 4.6 Cadillac Northstar has been speculated; some people say it should work, others say no. There are enough differences between '95 Auroras and later years that that swap would at least require the ECM to be swapped, too.

  • dman248dman248 Member Posts: 2
    hello, new to the site and looking for some helpful info. I've got a 01 aurora and the low oil pressure light has been poppin on for the past few weeks. It only happens for about 5-8 min after i start her up, any ideas on what this problem may be?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    V6 or V8? How many miles? Does the '01 have an oil-pressure display? If so, what does it read? Is the light on only at idle rpm or higher, too? How is the oil level?

  • dman248dman248 Member Posts: 2
    its a v6 with 70k. the dic reads "low oil pressure" and the oil light on the dash comes on at the same time. this is only when i start it up after it has been sittin for hours. the light and the dic message pops on and off for few minutes then goes out after driving for about 5 to 10 min. and now the check engine light has come on and stays on. the oil level is fine, i just checked it yesterday. the "low oil pressure" diaplay and oil light on come on after starting and goes out after a few minutes of driving. maybe this has something to do with the check engine light?
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    97 Aurora just replaced crank shaft sensors, but the car still wants stall when idling and warmed, but when it gets ready to stall and you give it some gas, it bogs down and dies out. Any suggestions to what could be causing this problem ??
  • fred1948fred1948 Member Posts: 1
    I have had exactly the same problem (same year, same car, etc.) and it has been in to several mechanics with no luck. Have you gotten any help with this problem?
  • doucettedoucette Member Posts: 4
    Replaced the wires on the car as a couple of them had burn marks on them. since then when in drive and idling in traffic the car now stalls. up until the wires were replaced the car did not stall. checked and there is no vacuum line off. it does this after the car has been running about 10 minutes and continues to do it while you are idling in traffic. any ideas what could be the problem now?
  • butchmotorsbutchmotors Member Posts: 6
    Did you also change the plugs and if so what kind did you put in?
  • meadstermeadster Member Posts: 2
    Same exact problem for me today out of the blue: My 2001 Aurora V8, cold start this am ran terribly rough and sputtering, "low oil pressure" alert on the dic and then the engine light came on - after about 10 minutes of warm up and 3 restarts to try and reset any computer flukes, the engine had warmed up to temp and all was running nicely again. Same repeated later that day - engine light started "flashing" this time. I sat and did not drive, warmed up car idle, then lights went out and ran smoothly again no problems at operating temp.
    Stopped and ran a computer engine code check at Monroe, they said it read "misfiring cylinder" - try a tune up first.
    I'll try that first after Christmas before a full scan is done at the Cadillac dealer - more to come...
  • meadstermeadster Member Posts: 2
    To summarize a LONG December with my car maintenance and troubleshooting:
    Aurora V8 4.0, 83,000miles, After new exhaust pipes/mufflers, then wheel bearing/ABS sensor replaced with electrical troubleshooting done and corrected in early Dec, a week later (Christmas Eve morning), I cold start and the car runs terribly, chugging, sputtering, etc like I've never heard before from it (cat convert is still good).

    Engine light on then even started flashing at times (did not drive when flashed other than the first time for a short distance off the highway). When idling and warmed up to normal operating temp after ~25min, car runs smoothly again (light sometimes went out, sometimes not once running smoothly).

    Dealer got a misfire code on #1 cylinder especially but others were random, they changed spark plugs and 1 coil, the other components were fine and tested good. Problem still not fixed with misfire on #1 after many diagnostics: tested wires(boots)-all good, fuel injectors good, all sensors appear working/O2 sensors, MAF, ECM, etc no codes related. They narrowed down to carbon buildup (also called in to GM for second opinion and they agreed/no other thoughts). Two different engine flushes were done 12hr flush with the injectors, I guess a top and bottom flush as they called it). It appears that per dealer (who is reputable and we have a 4 year relationship so trustworthy of being upfront with me, gave me about 1.5 days of these diagnostics w/out additional payment),,, we're down to a "99% sure it's a sticky valve as they've seen before often, thought is since no electrical codes or components are obvious via testing, it's mechanical - carbon buildup in cyl #1 at cold start, car runs poorly for the period of time until it's warm enough for the valve to open up and move freely".

    I've been given the GM fuel additive to run through the car which I've driven about 150 miles with (1/4 tank). The dealer has the car back until tomorrow so they can give me a quote on tear down, send out for internal engine cleaning, and so if that works to clean out carbon and possibly resolve?
    Once through this terrible run period, the car runs beautifully and with the updates and new plugs, has great power back so I'm torn with what to do.

    Any thoughts/similar experiences/new ideas or products to save from the decision of paying another big money output or choosing to sell the car early for a new?

    Thanks for any help,
  • doucettedoucette Member Posts: 4
    Hi there
    had a similar problem with my 1998 Aurora, car ran great when warmed up but when first starting from cold the car idle fluctuated and the whole car would shake like it was not running on all cylinders. took it in to the GM dealer who diagnosed that the intake manifold needed to be re-torqued. I gave the go ahead for them to do it and it solved the problem. the intake manifold was sucking air which was causing it to have a rough idle when cold. cost for me was about $300.00. good luck
  • spur2spur2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 Aurora that has the same problem. New plugs and wires installed. Engine runs great, except engine sometimes dies when sitting at idle, while in drive. If I shift into neutral, engine does not die. Engine rarely dies in summer (warm weather). Sometimes will start to die and then engine will speed up and will not die, and then return to idle speed. I was told it may be a crankcase sensor. What do you think?
  • doucettedoucette Member Posts: 4
    Hi there
    noticed your message.....my 98 had the same issue. I bought the car in the late summer, had no problems until the cold weather seem to hit....I had also changed the wires and the same day after changing the wires, it started to act the same way..it was like someone took the key and turned it off while you were idling at a stop light or stop sign....in neutral or park it did not do it. replaced one crankshaft sensor and it did not do it for the mechanic. brought it home and it started again. replace the other sensor and it did not do it for a couple of weeks. they then had to clean the contacts on the sensor. it has not acted up since (knock on wood). My suggestion is that if you have them replace the sensors make sure they replace both at once and that the contacts at the other end are clean. good luck... i know how frustrating this is, it was like someone just turned the key off and the car would always start right back up.
  • spur2spur2 Member Posts: 4
    Did you also install new spark plugs? I am trying to figure out whether it is the plugs or wires that are causing the problem. I installed both plugs and wires and thus do not know which to replace.

    Please advise.

    Also, have you tried new wires?
  • putskiputski Member Posts: 1
    My Aurora has been to 3 Olds dealers in the last 3 years for diagnosis to correct a lope, or missfire when driving 35-40 mph. the car runs great and gets 17mpg. in town and 27 on the hi-way. The problem started @ 55,000 mi. and still has it @ 87,000 mi. Have had wires, plugs, filters, (fuel & air) changed,engine scans, (found no problems) fuel & engine additives tried numerous times. Only time the 'CHECK ENGINE' light comes on is in real humid conditions,(spring and fall) and doesn't stay on long. Premium fuel makes no differrence except for hi-way mileage. Dealer mechanics can't find anything wrong, but notice the same miss that I do, yet say everything checks out so there's nothing they can do. I thought it was in the transmission, but leaving it in 3rd.(no overdrive) increases rpm and the miss is still there! I've had dozens of vehicles, but this problem is a one of a kind mystery!
  • aleanalean Member Posts: 3
    :confuse: 1995 Aurora with engine trouble light. Gave it a tuneup; got a $700 estimate to fix these codes: "knock sensor line missing the reference signal ECM trouble codes = 132-27-36-74-119-136-135-134-133. Does this sound like I need a new computer? New one was installed in 2003, and as I can't afford to feed my lovable auto, it gets driven only about once a week. Have already put $5,000 more repair into the car than it's worth so reluctant to do more. (where's that guy with the engine fire who needs a '95 engine - you might get mine!) So can you help me figure this out? Thanks in advance.
  • sclipsonsclipson Member Posts: 7
    to everyone who has had a stalling problem at the stop light and replaced the crankshaft sensors, has this worked? the people that i have had look at the problem, including the dealer, cannot come up with any codes to fix. i'm at my witts end
    on this thing. have no other problems with the car.
  • doucettedoucette Member Posts: 4
    Hi ther
    I can relate to your frustration concerning this. Mechanic replaced the lower crankshaft sensor, brought the car home and 10 minutes later it did it again. Took it back and they replaced the top sensor (harder of the 2). car ran great for 2 weeks then started again. went back to mechanic, they replaced the ignition wires. 3 hours later did it again. went back and freaked out on dealership. they kept the car for 1 week, it too did not have a service engine light on, no codes and they were totally baffled about it. they contacted Gm and after basically going thru the whole car, decided to replace the crankshaft sensors again and clean the contacts when they connected to. this was 1 month ago and the car seems to be running fine and has not acted up since. hopefully this is the end of the stalling issue. it to was stalling at stop signs and traffic lights and would always start right back up. as per several mechanics I have talked to and many searches on the Olds Aurora Website, if you replace the crankshaft sensors, replace them both at the same time and make sure the contact area are clean. hope this helps and good luck
  • sclipsonsclipson Member Posts: 7
    thanks for your advise on the sensors. i showed your response to the dealer , and
    they said if the sensors were acting up, it would leave a trail, i.e. codes.

    obviously none of us really knows the answer. went ahead and ordered new sensors
    anyway, as it was'nt that much money. if this doesent work, it goes on the block.
  • spur2spur2 Member Posts: 4
    Please let me know if the new sensors solve the problem. If so I will try it. I have the same problem (engine dies just like I turned the ignition key to off) and have been shifting into neutral at every stop light. My problem started after I installed new plugs and wires and I have been trying to decide if that is the problem. Did your problem start after installing new plugs and wires?.
  • sclipsonsclipson Member Posts: 7
    sorry to hear you are having the same problem. no, my problem did not start after
    having new wires etc. installed. car had been running great untill
    about a year ago. does not do it very often, but enough that my wife will not take it more than a couple blocks from home. one thought was that the egr valve was acting up but that checks out all right. hopefully the sensors will arrive shortly and can get them installed early next week.
    its been one fine automobile and my wife does not want to give it up, but will in
    a heartbeat if this problem isn't fixed soon.
    i'll post my results as soon as i can .
  • dkocchidkocchi Member Posts: 6
    I recently had my 95 into the dealer for a 3rd replacement of the AC comp. All is fine with the AC now, but a couple days after I got the car back form the dealer, after the car sitting for the afternoon it would barely start, but started, and was drivable but running very poorly. The next morning the car would not start. We had the car towed to our mechanic and he determined it was the fuel pump ($650), the pressures were low 12psi, and I guess were SB about 40 something. All made sense at that point. I picked up the car and all seemed fine but the car was still hesitating, when you decellerate and then gradually accellerate, the car would hesitate and backfire. (This hesitation was present even before the AC problem, I was hoping the new fuel pump would take care of this problem.) No such luck. The car still had the same issues so I took it back to the mechanic. The car would now stumble when trying to start, but start and also continued to hesitate as described above.(periodically) The mechanic could not figure out what was going on, the pressures were fine on the new pump, but felt it might be bleeding out after sitting for awhile. He continued to replace the fuel pressure switch. The problem is still not fixed. He tested plug wires, coils etc... with no problems found. The conclusion, it may be a defective fuel pump. He offered to changed out the pump for a new one. I guess we will see if that takes care of it, I have my doubts. Any other ideas???
  • sclipsonsclipson Member Posts: 7
    after my previous post on engine stalling at a light etc., i had the crankshaft and cam sensors changed and all now seems okay. have not had a problem and have added approx one thousand miles since. hope this continues, as we are taking a trip to fla soon. will report back as to how that goes.
  • ndeysayau95ndeysayau95 Member Posts: 14
    I am new to the site, I recently bought a 95 Aurora. When I got it I had to replace the thermostat & water pump due to overheating (it was welded into the housing unit wow!) I did this myself (mind u I am a woman hahaha). After fixing this problem the car ran well! Then one day I went to start it and it was hesitant, I had to turn the key a few times before it would start. The next morning I went to start it and it did nothing, all I hear is a clicking under the backseat. Had the battery tested it was goo but low so they charged it. Still nothing. I should also mention that some extra things were attached to the car (backup battery for an amp in the trunk) the day before the car wouldn't start wires touched & arched. Also my "Change Oil NOW" light on the DIC appeared about 3 days after the oil & filter were changed. Possible oil sending unit prob? If so how hard is it to replace? PLEASE help! Sorry for such long msg just trying to be clear. Thanks in advance!!
  • spur2spur2 Member Posts: 4
    As to the "Change Oil Now" light, it probably needs to be "reset." Push the reset button on the DIC.
    As to the failure to start problem, I have not experienced that with my 98 Aurora but it sounds like it may be the starter. I understand that 95 Auroras have had some problems with fuel leaks and possible fires. Do you know if yours has been repaired for this?
  • ndeysayau95ndeysayau95 Member Posts: 14
    Thank you for the input. I am not sure if mine has been repaired for the fuel leaks. I did read in some of the other posts about one of the lines being recalled. Im hoping that it is not my starter as this is a costly job. Maybe it's my fuel pump considering I ran out of gas in the car twice, and then filled up. Once again thank you.
  • sclipsonsclipson Member Posts: 7
    it does sound like the starter. any good shop can verify this quite easily.

    reset the change oil light. the manual will guide you as to how to do this.

    good luck
  • trini3trini3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Folks,
    I have a 2001 aurora with the 3.5 V6 engine. I recently discovered a siren type noise that increases and decreases with acceleration or deceleration. It only starts when I' up around 60mph. I guess it appears to ha a vacuum leak like symptom. Help if any one has ever had this problem. Thanks
  • sclipsonsclipson Member Posts: 7
  • sclipsonsclipson Member Posts: 7
    just finished a long trip with my 89 aurora and am happy to report that we did not have any stalling problems since crankshaft and cam sensors were replaced. yahoo!!!!

    happy motoring
  • hannig43hannig43 Member Posts: 2
    I've read all of these accounts and it sounds like my CRANKSHAFT SENOR(s) need to be replaced too (it stalls at wierd times)....also the tach is shooting up to 8000 even though the engine isn't reving that high. Does this sound familiar to anybody? Are they related?
  • skurz374skurz374 Member Posts: 1
    How did you get the water pump to break free from the housing?
    I have the special tool but it just will not budge.
  • pfarneypfarney Member Posts: 3
    My Aurora has less than 10 K since total O'haul. Oil presure reads 48-51 lbs at cold start, but gradually drops to "no" or loe oil pressure at stops/low idle. then the chime starts and won't quit until I begin to increase the rpm's after stop sign or traffic signal. I know that the pressure must be OK. No engine noises, no o'heating, no oil use or discoloration. What to do? The damn chime is driving me CRAZY at stops. Thanks a bunch.
  • tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    Hey everyone. I have a '96 aurora .8 cylinder, 198559 miles. Just replaced oil , oil filter,plugs, transmission fluid and filter. Now we here a grinding or scrubbing sound where the serpinetine belt is at. Friend of mine say its coming from the air conditioner pulley. ??? My biggest problem is that it now I cant get the 'oil change soon' :confuse: :cry: reading off of the DIC and when it warms up the PSI drops from 80 t0 below 30 and it cuts off when idle at stop lights. Could it be that the car is idled too high or the oil sending sensor ?
  • tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    : Well everyone I'm back. In my last post i ask about oil pressure on a '96 aurora. Well my car went to the shop and has been there for two days. Just got her back. I had to have a Idle air control valve, an oil pressure switch, idler pulley,serpentine belt and also idler tension pulley replace the original ones. All in all it ran about $385.My mechanic drove it thru town today and stopped at several red lights he says no problems. placed it on his computer diagnostic and shows all systems normal. I drove it home and my worry wort mind stayed on my computer oil psi read out on the DIC. My readings at stoplights were 14-29 psi and went up at acceleration but I don't believe they ever got above 70 psi. but I also never got above 45 mph because of after work traffic. This time my car did not cut off on me and no alarm went off. I really need someone out there to tell me what is the TRUE oil pressure that a '96 aurora should be. My mechanic says its fine at what it says. Does this seem right to everyone? I can;t afford to blow gaskets or even my motor.
  • pfarneypfarney Member Posts: 3
    This engine should maintain 9 PSI at hot idle, and between 15-30 PSI at crusing speeds. Close tolerances, seemingly low oil pressures are "normal" in this engine. Don't be concerned unless your light & in-dash warnings (audible) go off at idle.
  • ladydelight200ladydelight200 Member Posts: 8
    Is there anyone out there that can help me with this problem I have a 97 Aurora with a right wrap head ,if I have the heads repair wwould this solve my problem or would i have to continue to search for a another engine...please help me
  • racuattracuatt Member Posts: 1
    My Aurora had a noise I thought sounded like a jet. It was the freon compressor bearing. They say it's not replaceable although my son is a GM mechanic and called a bearing company to find a replacement. Replacing the bearing saved us a lot of money.
  • ladydelight200ladydelight200 Member Posts: 8
    i know questions are to be about repairs and such, but i thought i read up here where i coould go and get a copy of 1997 -1995 manual owners do anyone know about this please help thanks.......
  • oldwinooldwino Member Posts: 20
    you can get pdf copies here; the second post is easier than the first;

    http://aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&thread=1440- - 8
  • ladydelight200ladydelight200 Member Posts: 8
    Hello ladydelight,
    here again i would like to know now whether or not if anyone knows how I might get a repair manual for 1997 aurora .....thanks again for the previous help found the page for the owner's manual ....
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
  • tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    Hey guys! My '96 aurora started running above 200 degrees today but my cooling fan didn't cut on. I checked both fuses and they are fine.I have already change idle air control valve and Mass air flow sensor in the last few months. I have changed the serpentine belt along with Idle pulley and also the water pump belt. Oil pressure switch has been changed also. I always watch the temp gauge when driving and it doesn't usually run higher than 200. It ran up to 225 today before the cooling fans cut on. is this normal or is there something i am overlooking.I also can smell antifreeze burning after i parked it. Should the fans engage before it reaches 225-?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    According to the service manual for my '97 Aurora:

    Low speed operation of both cooling fans occurs when:
    1) coolant temp exceeds 229F or
    2) trans fluid temp exceeds 302F or
    3) a/c operation is requested

    High speed operation occurs when:
    1) coolant temp reaches 234F or
    2) trans fluid temp exceeds 304F or
    3) certain DTCs are set

    Hope this helps.

  • tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    where is the thermostat located on '96 aurora?
  • LJBat13LJBat13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Aurora with about 250,000 km on it. Recently we have noticed that when I am driving the car, it will slowly continue to accelerate in spite of reduced pressure on the gas pedal or pressure on the brake. When I put the car in neutral, the RPM continue to climb to approx 4000. I shut the car off and often it resolves the problem, however on occasion it happens again. I have noticed the problem mostly when the vehicle is cold. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks
  • trailmugtrailmug Member Posts: 8
    Is your A/C on when this happens (or anything that causes the AC ON light on the climate control panel)? When my A/C clutch engages, the car can chuggle pretty badly.

    Other first thought is the torque converter lockup clutch -- it locks up somewhere around 35-40MPH in overdrive or 4th gear when you're taking it easy. Try driving 35-40MPH with the brake pedal depressed (enough to turn the brake lights on, no need to drag the pads hard) -- this will disable the TCC.
  • trailmugtrailmug Member Posts: 8
    This is probably caused by (but not necessarily the fault of) the Idle Air Control valve. It could be stuck, and they're cheap and easy to replace. Before anything gets replaced, make sure the car warms up fully when you drive it (around 200F). The IAC learn won't complete if the car doesn't warm up -- I've seen uncontrolled acceleration caused by a stuck-open thermostat!
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