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Hyundai Accent Engine Questions

in Hyundai
I have a 2001 Accent 1.6L engine. Timing belt just went while driving, just wondering if anyone knows if the engine has a non-interference head or not? Or will I possibly be looking at Valve work as well as just replacing the belt?
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Sorry if this line of questioning seems uninformed. I just purchased a 2007 Accent for my wife and it seems to me that the valve-train is kind of noisey, at least somewhat louder than I'm used to with my previous cars. I don't see any requirement in the car's maintenance schedule for a valve adjustment so I assume the valves are supposed to be self-adjusting. I'm not at all familiar with the way the "continously variable valve timing" mechanism works...maybe all CVVT lifter configurations are self-adjusting? I have no clue.
If mildly tapping valve lifters is something I just have to live with, I can do that, but if there is an initial adjustment that I can do to quiet them down before the engine gets too many miles on it then I'd like to know about it. Otherwise, I expect that I'll be forced to visit the dealer at some point to have prematurely worn lifters replaced. Thus-far I've had no luck finding any information on the net that can shed any light on this subject. I'll soon be purchasing a shop manual (if the dealer does not continually claim it is out of stock like the dealer did on my last new car) and I figure I can most likely get the info I need out of that, but until then, I hate to drive the car, setting up a wear-pattern on the lifters that will make them permanently noisey, with complete replacement being the only alternative.
Please don't advise me to talk to a dealer about this...I'm very sure the dealer does not have my best interests in mind when it comes to service work, and I don't expect they'll be sharing any technical info.
I'd greatly appreciate any little bit of information that might shed some light on this subject.
Thank you very much!
As for the car, I'm afraid I can't quite sort out what you are saying you think is wrong with it. Rod bearings?...a complete set of rod bearings shouldn't cost more than about a hundred bucks, should it?
http://www.lambsauto.com/belts.htm
When I turn the key NOTHING happens. Like there's no power at all... no clicking noise, nothing. I wait a while and try again, and again, eventually it starts. Once I do get it to turn over, all electrical stuff like the Trip A/B and radio setting have all reset, and I have to start all over to reset stations, and have lost my mileage on the Trip counter.
I'm thinking it could be a electrical short somewhere. Will this be something hard to trace down, or can it be hooked up to the computer and some code will come up? I'm going to the dealer next week to check it out.
My cars behave this way. I'd be inclined to agree with three different people who all said it's normal.
It WAS one of the battery cables that wasn't attached properly. Easy fix.
Looking for something that might actually explain what the cause and possible fis for it could be.
Car is a 2001 Accent GLS 145K miles
tried to rent an accent from hertz, was all set and when got to hertz place, they said the check engine lite was on. this was the first indication that my sensor was out on my car.
anyone else had sensor problems?
I do have a warranty 10yr /100000 miles
It is at the Hyundai shop right now...I need a new transmission but I need to show proof (3) of them that I had the fluid changed... now I know I can get 1 of them but the other 2 I cant remember where or the name of the places.. 1. in Florida - dont know what town...2. in Virginia... again dont know what town....
What can I do...
Is there anything I can do...
This had happened in the past during cold temperatures and it only happened here again this winter when the temperature fell to about -10 C for the first time, so I didn't pay much attention to it. However, yesterday, the problem worsened and the sputtering expanded to higher rpms (about 3,000 rpm). Also, there was a ping noise that would come.
Unfortunately, my trusted mechanic is on his annual vacation and I have no idea when he gets back. So I had to take it into one of the chain service stations and the mechanic there says that he couldn't read the code for the engine light completely, but said I needed to change the catalytic converter, which costs apparently 675 dollars. Could a catalytic converter be the cause of this sputtering, since it happens only when driving and the catalytic converter is involved in cleaning up the gases post combustion? Wouldn't it more likely be something regarding fuel injection or moisture in the engine compartment or something?
I realize even more the value of an honest, trusted mechanic. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
However, two things I note when reversing into the garage in which the driveway is at a fairly steep upward angle. First, the engine cuts out without warning if I let the rpms get a bit too low on the driveway. My wife notices this characteristic too. The rpms have to be quite low. Its not like I have to back up at 2500+rpms. Its just something to get used to. Also, some times I notice a smell...maybe a bit of clutch burn? As I said, I'm not over revving to keep the car from stalling. So I find this clutch(?) smell surprising. Might it just be the newness of the drivetrain?
I recently bought a new 2007 Accent 4 door automatic. I noticed that when I start accelerating from low speed or a stop, it sometimes seems to have a problem getting into gear - it's like a bit of a jerking feeling before it actually kicks in and accelerates. I don't know how else to describe it.
Anyone else have this problem?
i wish buying a car was the same as anything else - you aren't happy, you can exchange it for another one that works properly!! ugh.
thanks and do keep me posted!
which always turns over on the first crank. One particular day last
week, it started up right away until I shut the engine off at one of
my routine stops for the day. Car would not start. Waited about
15 minutes and tried again before it finally turned over like it normally
does on the first try. Brought it to a reliable repair shop for a complete
tuneup (wires, plugs, air filter, fuel filter). Everything was working fine
until the other day when I came to a traffic light stop and the engine
just died and was unable to start the car again. Engine cranks, but
won't turn over until about 15 minutes of rest. Hope someone has a
answer for me. This car has been good for the past 8 years. Problem
like this can be frustrating. THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
COMING ON. Look forward to a response. JC
The maintenance schedule states the timing best needs to be replaced at four years or 60k miles. After just purchasing the car, it seems ridicules that I would have to change a timing belt on a car which has only 13k miles.
Both can come at a hefty price, I'd try the CPS first. Sometimes, the part will come with the manual to put it in - it's rather easy to do.
Eventually, if it is the CPS or the CSS, your car won't start anymore. It'll continue to crank but won't fire. Good luck!
96-02 $11.38
Pcv valve, accent, sohc
96-02 $12.77 Which is the right pcv valve for my car
DOHC=dual overhead cam
Probably labeled on the valve cover. I would suspect that most Accents were SOHC.
Possibly, but a quick check of a few online auto parts web sites only show the 1.5 ltr SOHC engine as a choice for the 99 Accent. I would hazard a guess that is the engine you have. Just to be safe, check the valve cover on the engine and look for SOHC or DOHC. Also, if you see something like 16V on the valve cover, that is a DOHC engine, but I would not expect to see that. YMMV.
thanks
Anybody else have this problem and if so, what did it cost to have it repaired?
Thanks,
Dusty