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that trunk latch problem has been mentioned many times by other owners, but my 06 hasn't shown the problem, probably it has the newer part.
(Apparently VW has a newer part for replacing the old part. here's some info from fred's tdi forum:
parts counter says 4F5827505D is the current version. $64.25 online. $75 or so at the dealership.)
Reportedly the problem can be cured by disassembling the latch and lubing it every few months. Or by replacing with the newer part...
You can peruse their "Brake Sets" and customize which pads/rotors you wish to include in the set you order. It is not really all that expensive... about $120 per axle for high-quality stuff.
Personally, I went with "zimmermann" rotors and "ATE" pads. With this combination, my Jetta feels like it has air-brakes... VERY powerful stopping.
If you *insist* on ceramic-based pads, you can chose the "Akebono" pads.
To answer your questions about ceramic-based pads.... the main thing is that they put off less brake dust. The dust they do create is not black like other pads.... it is more greyish. This tends to keep your wheels looking cleaner between washings.
The first step with new rotors/pads is to season the rotors. This entails thermo-cycling the rotors over several days.... allowing FULL and COMPLETE cooldown between heatings. This removes internal stresses from the metal and should guarantee that you will not suffer from rotor warpage. ALL pads need to be seated into the rotors. The physics of seasoning the rotors is really a tranferrance of a very thin layer of pad-material to the rotors.
After seasoning the rotors, the pads can be dealt with. Breaking-in pads is essentually allowing the pads to wear down enough to fully conform to the contours of the rotor. Some folks call this part "letting out the smoke". It entails VERY hard braking to get the pads smoking. This burns off residue from the manufacturing process. After every hard stop... drive for at least 20 minutes to allow cooldown. (warning--cheep rotors will warp during this process)
If the rotor-seasoning and pad-breakin is done correctly and carefully, you will be rewarded with many years of VERY strong brakes with no warpage or other issues.
The choice of sensor is soley based on what your car has installed from factory. The front-left-inner pads would have the sensor if it is installed. It is easy enough to turn the steering fully to the left, shut off engine and reach in to feel if there are wires attached to the inner-pads.
Do not forget to get a supply of DOT4 brake-fluid so you can replace the fluid and purge the ABS brake system. This absolutely MUST be done every 2-3 years on every car....lest you are asking for expensive ABS brake problems down the road.
You need to resolve the problems so the trouble-lights are extinguished.
Engine oil filter - make sure you get P/N that ends with "E" - that one costs a bit more but it has a "pre-filter" for cold and humid climate zones (an extra layer of fiberglass mesh).
Factors that may affect earlier filter changes:
Frequent drives in dusty or sand blowing conditions, air pollution, humidity, smoking (in the car), heavy rain or snow conditions.
I cannot give you an advise on location of these filters because I have a 2009 Jetta Tdi Wagon and you may have them at a different location.
Last time I checked, my dealer was charging $40 for one and $50 for the other (don't remember which was how much). The engine air filter should definitely be changed in accordance with the manufacturer recommendation.
With the pollen or cabin filter you can pretty much do what you want, that filters the air going into the passenger compartment, so it does not have any affect on warranty coverage. If you don't change this, it may eventually start to cause the air coming in to the car to smell bad. I had ours changed at 2 years and 17K mi, but it looked pretty clean so this time I'll go at least 3-4 years or maybe leave it go until we get to 50 K mi (assuming we do not start noticing any smells).
Obviously, the person who does the work needs to be competent. Use correct parts, oil, components, tecniques....etc.
Even if someone messes up changing the cabin filter.... VW cannot claim that affects the warantee on the engine or the unlimited-milage corrosion warantee. Bottom line is that there is not much one CAN do to "Affect the warantee". The warantee is not a all-or-nothing propasition.
If you chose to do work yourself, simply keep the receipts for the parts you purchase as proof. I assume you realize that you may need some tools and skill to do the work yourself. (Torx, hoseclamp pliers...etc)
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To answer your question about a website showing how to replace the filters... YES there are several complete with color photos.
I have done it many times with various convertibles that I owned in my lifetime. It worked like a charm!
Alternatively, you can have this done by any good professional auto body shop.
The dealer will not help you in this matter unless the car is under warranty and if so, they will do the same and/or subcontract this to a reputable auto body shop.
This was the case for a 2006 NB. It took 3 visits to the dealer for them to fix it.
The way they correctly diagnosed it was by removing all the rugs and THEN driving the vehicle through a carwash, with two technicians searching for the leak.
As far as problems starting a car in wet weather, if it's a gasoline engine, check the spark plug wires and distributor - and replace wires and distributor cap, if applicable. The usual suspects....
Is there a sensor in the door that I can replace? How about a fuse? Any ideas?
It's a 2000 Jetta VR6
It is not trivial to fix. If you are adventurous , there are instructions on the internet complete with photos. Be prepared to disassamble the entire door and remove the glass too.
Is there an easy way to disengage the beep? I don't mind locking the door with the key, but I want to get rid of the beeping if this is going to be a high cost fix.
various web sites have photos of exactly where/how to look for this problem.
Since the onboard computer keeps a log of all these occourances (windows, doors, heated-mirrors...etc), I would suggest you use a VagCom to help you diagnose the issue.
GOOD LUCK, ALWAYS THE AUXILLARY FAN GOING BAD.
So here's the problem:
Air still blows out of the vents, but it's not cold. I recharged it last weekend at Autozone but that it didn't work. So I figured out my compresser keeps kicking on and off about every 10 seconds. The condenser fan doesn't spin and I'm not sure what would be causing it.
Anybody know anything about A/C?
If your compressor is kicking on and off... then I would suspect that it may be overcharged and one of the safety-sensors is kicking it off. (then it resets in about 10 seconds)
In any case, it would be pretty easy for an experienced AC technition to diagnose your problem. First thing would be to hook up the guages to know exatly what is going on withiin the system. A good tech can tell EXACTLY what the problem is within a couple minutes by just looking at the guages.
Without guages, you should be able to carefully feel the AC plumbing with your hands to tell if the compressor is working. (pipes should be proper tempartures)
Wish i would have done this quick check first
Worst case - Piston hit valve and physical engine damage occoured.
I don't think I am going to have any problems with this, but want to be educated, so I am looking for general advice on issues to watch out for in getting my Jetta repaired from a collision. I have a 2004 Jetta that was in a minor collision (I hit the car in front of me in slow-moving traffic). I have an appointment with a body shop that has a really good reputation locally. I have the estimate from the independent appraiser that my insurance company hired.
Is it normal for the appraiser to look at your car externally only and not get under the hood? The appraisal was done while I was at work, so I was not present and the appraiser said he did not need to look under the hood. My insurance company, Amica, which I've had good experience with, said they can adjust the estimate later if the body shop finds something when they get into the car or they can start a new claim if additional repair is unrelated.
Even though the collision occurred at a pretty low speed (the other car was a van, and had no damage), my Jetta seemed to get pretty banged up. The hood seems to have gotten misaligned and I am unable to close or open it from the position that it is in. The front of the Jetta is showing damage and is somewhat impacted in.
From what I understand of the appraisal, it is talking about a front bumper cover "assy" (operation: overhaul), remove/replace front bumper cover, refinish front bumper cover, remove/replace front bumper cover molding, refinish front cover molding, remove/replace grille, refinish grille, align hood panel, etc. Parts and labor estimate is a total of approximately $1700. Hourly labor rate is $85 an hour (seems low? I'm in San Francisco.)
One particular question I have is about the paint. The accident seems to have caused the paint to "fracture" is the best way I can describe it. So it looks like if you leave it alone, eventually it is going to peel off in thin long strips. A friend had to get a Camry repaired from an accident, and after the repair, the paint eventually did peel off in long strips like that, so they seem to have not done a proper job in repainting it.
Also, is it normal to make the estimate and make the repairs "based on the use of crash parts supplied by a source other than the manufacturer of a motor vehicle"? (The body shop already ordered the parts.)
Thank you for any advice that you have. It is really nice to be able to use this form.
Thanks!!!
Janice
found some current data:
http://www.autobodyonline.com/industry/laborrates.cfm?rfsh=306106110
It is normal for the insurance company to try to skru with you and try to get out of it cheep.
DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING until you are completely satsified with the repairs.
Another thing to consider...
Dont forget that your VW has a 10-year/unlimited milage corrosion warantee... if you do not use VW parts... that warantee will be null and void.
The part is officially called "latch" ( VW part # 3B4-839-016-AP). I had one already replaced on my rear right door back in January this year.
Made an appointment for this Saturday and the dealer has to "special" order this item and in a week or so it will be replaced under warranty.
Seems that VW did not solve these pesky little electrical problems that they have all the time.
Checked again into when (and if) Subaru will introduce their diesels to US market but it does not look bright as they do not have the automatic transmission for their diesel engine (they only have manual - 3rd year in Europe running). Problem is the high torque of their diesel engine that has to match the automatic transmission. New transmission is not even in the pipes in their R&D.
The following have been repaired or replaced under warranty.
At 40k the engine intake manifold failed. FYI a new intake manifold plus installation is over $400!
Electronic gremlins such as the alarm going off unprovoked eventually traced to an improperly installed engine wiring harness.
Excessive wind noise from driver door caused by bad rubber seal.
Various ill fitting interior panels replaced.
I received a letter from VW extending the warranty for the DSG transmission to 100k. According to VW certain DSG units may be susceptible to early clutch wear. So far I haven't had this problem.
All service & maintenance performed by the dealership.
That said I am very pleased with the car so far but time will tell
Front passenger door's remote lock malfunction. P/N 3B1-837-016-CG (officially called "latch" on VW part's fiche) has been "special" ordered by local VW dealer and will be installed under warranty.
For all you out there who do not hear horn click when you lock your car with key remote.
Actually, the dealer normally subcontracts this job to an upholstery shop anyway.
I my case, I brought my car to the dealer to get an estimate and then took it out.
Then I took my car to a local upholstery shop close by and I heard some worker there saying: oh, we have seen this car here before!
An upholstery shop normally buys the OEM VW lining anyway. Also, VW dealer usually doesn't have the experience to do the job.