Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

hipchicklette

Thanks. Glad to hear that's normal.

The puddle was under the engine, and was in the mornings, upon start (hadn't been running the A/C). Didn't actually smell anything, but they replaced the clamp for the recall. Haven't seen it lately (thankfully!).

Am hoping the gas mileage picks up: got 20 mpg last tank, and I don't yet have 1000 miles yet. Maybe, if the gas clamp was loose, this will improve with the replaced clamp.

verdugo

Hello. I need help, and I hope some of you guys out there can help me.

My g/f has my 2001 Jetta GLX manual with 38,000 miles on it while I'm out of town. She just called me and told me she's having problems with it. The problem is that the car refuses to go into any gear at all. She had it towed to a mechanic late today. They haven't looked at it yet, but they said that it sounds like a clutch problem and that it could be up to $1000 to fix.

My questions are: I just had a 35,000 mile service done and everything checked out ok. I occassionaly had probs that it wouldn't go into gear, but after a sec, it would work. My girlfriend is blaming herself saying she broke it b/c she usually never drives manual (she's driven all of 250 miles in a month since I left her the car). I don't think she was responsible for breaking it, what do you all think?

Also, is it normal for the clutch to give out before 40,000 miles? I don't drive it extremely hard by any means.

My last question is about the cost. Is it that expensive to repair a cluth?

Any comments appreciated.
Thank you in advance,

Angel

600kgolfgt

> got 20 mpg last tank, and I don't yet have 1000 miles yet.

You normally won't see a significant improvement in gas mileage until after the engine break-in period - normally after 5000 miles or so...

wai

Is it a recall for 2005.5 New Jetta or 2005 Old Jetta?

llfmpt

Don't call me stupid, please!

I went to get my oil changed at the local quickie place and they told me they couldn't do it b/c they don't have the specifications for the new Jetta. WTH? They said they called Advance Auto and three other places and noone had it...said to go to the dealer to get it changed. Well, I have had it with my dealer. I called the service dept and get voicemail and then no return call...nothing new...they gave me the run around about another issue I had. Sooooooo, I would like to see if I can just find the specifications myself and take them to one of the quickie places to have the oil changed.

Can anyone help me?

awilson

I have a 97 Jetta and it does the same thing. The dealership has to check the fluid. It is quite expensive too. I would suggest calling around and see if you can't get it cheaper. Just for them to check the fluid it is like $60 and if it is low it is an additional $50 per quart. To change the fluid is $300. At least at the volkswagen I went to it was that much.

mn_pat

at what interval does VW recommend that the Xmisson fluid be changed?

600kgolfgt

According to VW, the transmission fluid is a special synthetic that is designed to last the life of the vehicle...

600kgolfgt

The old Jetta. I had the same procedure done on my 2003 Wolfsburg.

jeffyscott

I assume there is not another dealer that you can use in your area?

One thing you could maybe do is buy the oil and filter from the dealer's parts dept. and find someone who will change it for you.

jeffyscott

Am hoping the gas mileage picks up: got 20 mpg last tank

We have averaged about 27 mpg. About 1/2 freeway and 1/2 suburban driving. Only 1400 miles so far.

jeffyscott

Is it a recall for 2005.5 New Jetta or 2005 Old Jetta?

The clamp and potential gas leak is recall for the 2005.5 new Jetta.

llfmpt

Are you supposed to be notified of recalls? I never got anything regarding this for my new 2005.5 Jetta.

jeffyscott

Yes you will get a recall notice letter in the mail. Here is the applicable VIN range 3VW_F_1K_ 5M600129 – 3VW_G_1K_ 5M644291 according to info at NHTSA web site.

Here is a copy of the recall notice: http://www.1webspace.biz/newjettatsb/recall.pdf

But perhaps if you got it recently they already did the recall prior to delivery.

600kgolfgt

Here's what I do - I usually buy the VW spec oil at an auto parts store, then have the dealer change the oil (using the oil I purchased). That way you get the correct OEM oil filter, and the copper gasket on the drain plug will get replaced every 2nd oil change. If you are wary of the dealer, find a mechanic who specializes in VWs to change the oil. Do not go to one of those Jiffy-Lube places - AVOID like the plague. They use the cheaper aftermarket oil filters that were not designed to work properly with the operation of your engine (such as aid in keeping the oil pressure at a proper level). VW oil filters have two steel ball-bearing check valves - one acts as a bypass valve, and the other valve prevents dirty motor oil from flowing back into the engine upon shutdown.

600kgolfgt

I stand corrected. Looks like VW is being more proactive about addressing issues this time around...

fish8

I second Golfgt's remarks. DO NOT go to a guick lube place. I would never trust them to change the oil on a VW. Go to another dealer or as stated above, buy the oil and filter and get a local mechanic to complete the oil change for you.

wai

I totalled agreed with you guys, don't ever change and use motor oil provided by the quick lube place though they are cheaper, as they will just use their normal conventional motor oil and not the correct oil used by Jetta. One time one of the mechanic there forgot to put back the copper gasket on the drain plug, and I need to go back to fix that. I always insist the dealer several times to make sure that they use the fully synthetic motor oil (SAE5W-40). This will protect VW engine better.

ptar

My Jetta very recently started making noise (thump) from rear when going over the slightest bumps - have noticed no difference in ride or handling though. What do you think?

bugman1

A friend of mine has generously donated a 1995 Jetta 3 to me but it seems it has a few problems. None of the dash works (speedo and tach included) and the auto headlight sensor doesn't work either. I'm working on a very tight budget and I've never owned a Volkswagen so I was hoping for a little advice as far as what it could be. Someone told me it may be the mother board but I can't find anything about it online. Thanks.

hipchicklette

Ah. Ok, good to know. Thanks.

jama

i had the exact same problem with my 2003 jetta. I have been driven a manual car for the past twenty years, and they told me I don't drive me car correctly.

the problem is the car would not move fast when shift in gear when engin is working hard.
is that your problem, they say it is a clutch issue, but is it the clutch issue?

it will cost me $2000 to fix it, what about you?

thanks

skittlesvw

I have a 97 VW Jetta GLS.

I am constantly having ppl flash me their brights at me, thinking that I have my brights on. Which I do not.

We are assuming that the headlights are positioned wrong.

We wanted to adjust them but we cannot figure it out on this Jetta. It doesn't seem to have the same type adjustment features as most other vehicles we have had.

Does anyone know how to adjust the headlight beam position on these cars?

wai

"car wouldn't move fast when shift in gear when engine is working hard"
Does it meant that after you release the clutch and pedal the gas at any gear, the engine RPM is not revolving higher and the car is not accelerating as usual and when did it happens?

eurotrash94

I have a nagging vibration in my Jetta and can't get it to go away! Vibration is coming from the drivers side but I can not isolate whether it is front or back. I have replaced all 4 tires, drivers side front wheel bearing, tie rod, ball joint, axle, strut, rear wheel bearing (drivers) and rear shocks! Any ideas? Possible motor mount, or tranny dog bone?

jenna82

Where can you find a Chiltons manual? I just bought an 01 jetta 1.8t and have had more problems in the last 3 months then I had with my Mits eclipse in 4 years. My air conditioner has gone out for the SECOND time. First time it was a "fuse". Not blowing any cold air and now the check engine light is on. HELP I think I have made a huge mistake by purchasing this car!!!

cragway

does anyone know the location of the fuel filter on the 2001 vw jetta gls?
is it easy to get to?. was thinking of replacing it my self.
i have about 30,000 miles on the car. thanks

jettaracer

Hi there munschie!
I have a 99 jetta, the first year model with the new body like your's. I've had that happen to me ever since I bought it. It happens when I put the car in reverse, then put it in drive. If there is a hill, I will roll down a bit, till it shifts gears, then it will go into drive. I've learned to keep my foot on the brake. and then when I hear it shift into drive, I know that I can hit the gas. Otherwise it "jumps" forward. I think that is just the way the car was made. I'm so used to it now, that I forgot all about it. It also helps that there are no hills in florida! :shades:

jettaracer

I have a 99 jetta, the new body style. I think I know what you are talking about. It's early morning, you are about to hit 40mph, when the car seems to pause and jerk into the next gear. Then it is fine thereafter. It is so sporadic that you are never able to recreate it. I think this is just the way the car was made. It doesn't appear to affect the car, and I've had it for over 6 years now.

wannatdi

:mad: ok my car keeps overheating and IDK whats wrong with it but I will put anti-freeze/coolant and water in and by about 15miles it will over heat and the Temp light will start flashing and beeping and when i pull over and pop the hood you can hear something boiling/bubbling in some wires and i found out it was the coolant thats bubbling away in my car b 4 it even cool it down... so what am i suppose to do my fans are on and idk why the coolant is bubbling away :sick:

skotchristian

Two Part Question regarding 2001 Jetta Air Bag On-Off Switch

I have a 2001 Jetta GLS VR6;

1. Is there a way to turn off (on/off switch) the Passenger Front and/or Front Side air bags?

2. If not... is there a way to install an on/off switch that will turn off the Passenger Front and/or Front Side air bags?

THANKS TO ANYONE!

bpeebles

Several things are possible

*)Make sure there are no air-bubbles in the cooling system. (it must be 'burped' because the waterpump cannot pump air)
*)Check that the thermostat is working.
*)Verify that that waterpump is moving the coolant thru the system.
*)ALWAYS use the proper G12 antifreeze in your 2002 Jetta. (Using anything else can cause gelling thus plugging of the internal passageways)

If all of the above checks out OK, then consider doing a leak-down test to the cooling system. (to verify that it can maintian pressure)

jenna82

I have a 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo, My air went out 2 weeks after I bought it with 50,000 miles on it. The dealer said it was a fuse....It has since gone out again this past week after owning it now for 3 months. Is there any other possible reasons for this? Possibly something I could fix myself? I did go out and buy the fuse needed but am not sure how to fiz it.....any advice??? :confuse:

dad2brooke

I have a 99 Jetta III VR6 with 68K on it. This past Friday I was going down a stretch of road where I have previously been stopped and invited to make a contribution to our local law enforcement’s coffers. Not wanting to contribute again, I decided to check my speed. Imagine my surprise when I looked down and saw that I was traveling 0 mph and my engine was turning 0 rpm’s.

Well I didn’t get a ticket, but I sure am wondering what is going on with my speedometer and tachometer.

Since Friday morning I have driven my car often and this is what I have come up with. The speedo and tach work fine if the car has not been driven in the last fifteen minutes or so. But if I have turned off the car for less than ten minutes or so, the speedo and tach do not work upon restarting it. The speedo needle will just vibrate at the “0” and the tach needle stays solid at the “0”.

I have a theory of what I think may be happening, but I would like to hear from anyone who may have had a similar problem, and how it was resolved, including cost.

Thanks,

Ralph

denlee1821

I have the 2003 Jetta 1.8 turbo. No problems up until now, the car was doing fine, I parked it in the driveway and went out an hour later and it wouldn't start. No warning at all, none of the indicator lights had been coming on. Now the indicator lights on the dash blink on and off. If you push on the rear defrost button the battery light goes out, if you turn the key to auxillary, the radio quits working. The power windows and locks are opening and closing on their own. And I remember hearing the horn a few weeks ago going off by itself. I did check the battery and it is low, but I don't know what could have caused it so quickly because I just had the car in for 20,000 mile service not even 3 weeks ago.
And ideas as to the problem?

knockout

same problem here, 99 1/2 Jetta, this happens in the morning and after getting out of work the car's been sitting for 8-10 hours, if I warm up the car for about 5 or so minutes before driving it, usually its ok, if I am in a rush and start driving the car right away then I have to put up with the sudden kicks from the transmission, very anoying and very frustrating, I have not taken the car to a VW dealer since I bought it used about a year ago... I had my mechanic look at it and he said I will eventually need a new trans (but I guess he was wrong if this is a factory problem) please keep us posted... and good luck to us all... :mad:

jrmorrow

I am hearing a humming noise when going straight on the roads...the fast I go, the louder the hum. Though sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesn't. The hum will fade out when I am turning on the highway... then caome back as I straighten out. Is this at all familiar to anyone else's problems?

meld

You should have this looked at ASAP. I have an 03 Jetta and ever since I bought it the radio loses power occasionally. Last week it did it and all of a sudden my whole electrical system went crazy!! Well it has been at the dealership since Thursday now. The fuse box on top of the battery burnt up--somebody else said thier battery was low--CHECK THIS OUT--because it will be a nightmare! It is a quick fix but I don't live in a town with a dealership so they had to tow me into another town then they had to order the part to replace the fuse box. I bet it happens again!

meld

I have had problems with my transmission jumping since day one! I don't know why it does it but I will be going down the road at a steady speed and it just jumps. I had it checked at the dealership twice but they say unless they see it happen they can't do anything. They told me that there was a recall on Passats for a similar problem. I am going to do some research.

dmross1

Hi all,
I just bought my Jetta about a month ago....and today while I was driving I turned down the radio all the way. I went and ran an errand, and when I started my car again, the radio will NOT turn on, the CD player won't work, nothing to do with audio functions is working. Its like it all of the sudden stopped working! Has anyone else had this kind of problem? Any advice?
Thanks!

gufwuf

Hi

I have a 2002 VW Jetta GLS 2.0. Recently the steering wheel started vibrating while braking at high speeds. The car was parked for 3 months. The mechanic checked the rotors and said that the surface not covered by the pad has rusted due to which the rotor is uneven. Is this the correct diagnosis. (The brake pedal vibration is very minimal)

He is charging ~100$/rotor + labor
NAPA is charging ~$30/rotor + labor
autozone is charging ~50/rotor+ labor

requesting yr opnion abt the price.

thnx
guf

bpeebles

The "humming while turning" is just the differential. Although it is not a big deal, if it bothers you, there is a TSB that referrs to this issue. Basically, the dealers have been instructed to change the fluid to a different type.

bpeebles

That is not uncommon for a vehilce that has sit for any length of time. Using high-quality rotors will minimize this from happening in the future.

If the rotors are not badly rusted, perhaps it will clear up by driving for several 100 miles and using heavy braking when stopping. In any case, this is NOT a safety issue. I personally would try to "dirve it off" by using the brakes heavilly for awhile.
Dont be afraid to "let the smoke out" of the brake pads... get them HOT and then drive for several miles to cool them off. Do this daily for about 2 weeks. Although this may wear the pads a bit... it is cheeper than a full-fledged brake-job just because there is some rust on the rotors..

Your posted variance in rotor prices is not uncommon. Obviously, a mechanic will "take his cut" when selling you rotors thus cost a bit more. If you end up replacing rotors, make sure you go with the "better" grade. If you ask about them at autoparts stores, they often have 2 to 4 different grades of rotors available.
Look for brand names such as Bendix, Raybestos, Brembo, ATE or even the German "Zimmermann" rotors.

Here are a few online parts sources to help you compare prices.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/
http://www.dubautoparts.com/volkswagenrotors.html
http://www.auto-parts.us.com/vw_rotors.html
http://www.speedyperformanceparts.com/vw-brakes-oemp.html

brightonguy46

I recently purchased a CD Changer for my 2000 VW Jetta on Ebay. My first mistake was buying the cartridge separate from the changer. Now the real problem, when I attempt to use it, it reads the magazine, then displays CD Error Can anyone offer a solution? I have tried both store bought CDs and ones I burned myself, same error.
Any suggestions??

madeline2

i have the exact same problem that began this past month. i have a 2000 jetta, and when the car has been sitting for a substantial amount of time, the car kicks for the first 5-10 minutes of driving it. this problems lessens as i drive it longer, but still the accleration power has the tendency to plunge. i haven't taken it to a mechanic yet for fear of being told that i will need a new transmission...

bbny

I just got 1997 Jetta GLX VR-6. My 1997 Jetta has 2 fans at the radiator. However, I hardly see the fan at the persenger side running... I only see the fan from the drive side runs when water temperature gets higher.... The temperature gauge only remains in the mid level and no problems of over heating... I am just wondering if anybody can explain me why it has 2 fans and only 1 runs... Also note that the other fan doesn't run even I have AC on. what should I do? check with dealer?

bbny

I used to have the same problem with my 1991 Honda Accord (73K only). And the speed sensor needs to be replaed. It might be a bit expensive for Jetta.

Good Luck.

BB

jrmorrow

First, the obvious question, are you putting them in upside down? But the first thing that comes to mind is that the changer is no good. Electronics usually work or they don't. I have a changer from a 97, but I don't think it will work with a 2000.

westinb

I have a 2001 1.8T Jetta and my timing belt shredded at 76,000 miles. Because I am not the original owner of the car, VW refuses to stand behind its product and help with any of the estimated $3600 in repairs. I have been doing some online research and have found timing belt problems are fairly common among 1.8 liter Jettas and Passats, as well as A4s. I'd like to get together as many other owners who have had this problem and see if there is any action that can be taken against VW. A number of mechanics, both independent and employed by VW think we have a good chance. email me at reportVW@gmail.com

allsoaps

I'm hoping someone here can help or at least point me in the right direction. The 'Drivers Door Open" message and chime comes on intermittently when driving. Hit a bump or take a curve at a decent speed and it will either shut up or start squawking if it had been off. Sometimes I'm blessed with a normal drive with no chime complaints or flashing messages. I just tested that it doesn't chime or message if the engine is running and the door actually IS open. And only once (so far) the car alarm has went off all by itself. It also intermittently won't lock with the keyfob until I open and re-slam the drivers door and then it will lock and honk like normal.

I've searched the forums but haven't found a complete answer that seems to fit my case. And heading to the dealership is not at the top of my solution lists--closest dealer is 110 miles away. So any DIY solutions will be very much appreciated.

Thanks ahead of time.