Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mach1_8mach1_8 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having same the same problem as cgnyc. Sometimes, the car will idle at about 4K RPM's. This has been going on for a week or so and it didn't give me much pause...but now the car is also having trouble starting (never had a problem before) and is even stalling on us! Of course, I am now driving the car and my wife will take our other car until I can get this fixed. Any ideas? I'm a DIY kind of guy...but with the myriad of sensors and what have you, I have no idea where to start. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    one word answer -- VAG-COM !

    I have had my VAG_COM for less than a month. It has already diagnosed a bad MAF (MassAirflowSensor) in my daughters Golf and I was able to scan/clear the codes in my other daughters NB (New Beetle) I also expect to be using it on my wifes Jetta TDI.

    Given that most dealerships charge at least $60 to just scan your car (even if they do nothing to fix it), I figure my VAG-COM has almost paid for itself within a month.

    (New MAF is about $400 part.... my daughter got hers for free because I was able to diagnose and show the dealership that MAF is coverd for 7years/70,000 miles)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Also, Has your battery been disconected or discharged reciently? That may cause your idling issues.

    The engine-model was changed part way thru the 2001 model-year. The newer engines (AVH) has NO THROTTLE CABLE and relies on the throttle-pedal to be synchronized with the throttle-body butterfly valve.

    TRY THIS: Turn key to ON, then slowly press throttle-pedal to floor and count to 10 seconds, then slowly release acc-pedal. Then turn off key for at least 15 seconds. On some engines, this will calibrate the throttlebody.

    If that does not work, You may need to re-calibrate the throttlebody.
  • cgnyccgnyc Member Posts: 6
    I don't know if this will help you, but I just had a similar problem my 2000 Jetta, except my driver side door would not lock when I hit the remote button. I would have to unlock all the doors first, then hit the lock button again and it would work. I also noticed that when I used the key in the lock to roll up/down the windows, that function was no longer working either. The dealership told me I needed a new door latch. Anyway, I just got the car back and all seam to be working fine. I think this cost me around $192.00 to fix...I can double check my bill but I think that was it.
  • pegusisunitedpegusisunited Member Posts: 4
    i have a 86 jetta gl with the GX engine, well it wont run for some reason, i've got spark and the required 10,000 to the spark plug and i've just got a new CPU for it well now its not getting fuel to the injectors. i dont know alot about the VW technology so i would be greatfull for any help. thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Make sure the fuel-pump is running.

    When you turn the key to "run" (but before starting it) Can you hear the fuel-pump in the gastank run for a second?
  • gbt2gbt2 Member Posts: 7
    My '98 Jetta's wiper control is not working properly. I should be able to click the lever (attached to the steering column) up once for slow and up twice for fast and down once for intermittent Intermittent works fine, but the lever will no longer click into place when I try the other settings. I assume I just replace the lever/switch, right? Anyone had this problem and/or done this repair? Is it difficult? Where can I find detailed instructions (I'm a mechanical novice)? Thanks in advance for any responses.
  • mn_patmn_pat Member Posts: 67
    .10 cent soultion....

    apply rain-x to the windshield and be happy you have intermittent wipers
  • drvwdrvw Member Posts: 3
    Good day! I have a 2001 Jetta GLS VR6 with about 70,000 miles and the check engine light has come on. This light is staying on constantly (a few days now) and intermittently the EPC light and the anti-slip lights are popping on and off. It seems completely random when these 2 lights will come on and off (ie no change in speed, etc). Sometimes they come on and off together, sometimes not (usually together, but the EPC usually goes off first). When they come on and off I notice no change in the performance of the car, but I'd still like to fix this. Any suggestions? (cheaper the better of course:)) Thanks all!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    As mentioned many times before.... you need to "pull the codes" from the onboard computer. There are several options to do this ranging from take to dealer to find somone with VAG-COM to have local autoparts place pull the codes.

    Of course, pulling the codes does not actually *fix* a problem, but it tells you where you stand.
  • drvwdrvw Member Posts: 3
    Thanks a lot. Any idea if these lights would be all related or seperate problems, or unable to tell?
  • vwchickvwchick Member Posts: 1
    My temperature warning light went off last week. I drove it to a garage, and they added antifreeze, no big deal. A few days ago the light went on again, and when I checked the overflow, sure enough there was next to no antifreeze in it! I have not noticed any leaks or puddles under my car.

    Is this expensive to fix? What could the problem be?
  • redjetta98redjetta98 Member Posts: 2
    My winshield transmission bolt has disengaged from the winshield motor. Should I screw the two pieces back together and assume the bolt came loose? Or has the motor broken and that is why the bolt came off as a failure to prevent further damage? Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You are losing antifreeze somwhere, If not leaking externally, then it is going into the oil or out the exhaust.... in all cases this problem needst to be isolated and resolved.

    Do not forget, use ONLY G12 antifreeze... anything else may ruin the engine.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am not sure what a "winshield transmission bolt" is. If you have pulled the valence off to access the windshild-wiper mechanism, I would suggest that you disassemble and lubricate all the moving parts (especially the wiper-pivits)

    It is common for the wiper-pivits to start to bind up and if they are not disassembled and lubed... the entire assembly will eventually seaze up.
  • redjetta98redjetta98 Member Posts: 2
    bpeebles,
    Thank you for the inisght. Yes I have pulled off the valence off and noticed that the two arm assembly (transmission) which moves the wiper arms had come off of the motor. There is one bolt that connects the two parts together which is the bolt that came off and of course it is on the underside of the entire assembly making ratchet access tricky. While I am pulling everthing apart to reassemble I am going to take your adivice to lube everything too.

    redjetta98
  • etown1etown1 Member Posts: 5
    Hello all, I posted a similar problem about on Oct. 14th. I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg edition with 62000, i just changed the oil on Sunday with Mobil 1. Well, as previously stated, I pulled into work one day, and the check engine light came on. I called the dealer, and they said to full up my gas tank (i had only had 30 miles on the new tank), make sure i put the cap on tightly, then drive it around. Sure enough, around mile 200 on that tank, the light went off. So yesterday i was driving, around mile 30 on a new tank of gas, and it comes on again. Will it go off again as before? Or is something really wrong and I should go have the codes pulled? If i do this last step, is it worth going to the dealer (said they would charge 99 bucks) or just a local place. Thanks so much.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    I kind of have to shake my head on this one. One, if your car actually started, the battery did its job, once the car starts the alternator takes over. If you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running you will probably get about 14.5 volts (this because the alternator puts out a higher voltage than the battery), with the car off with a completely charged battery you might have about 13 volts. Usually people replace their batteries as the weather gets cold and the car cranks over slow (you can also look at you battery warranty, whatever it is rated for, thats about how long it will typically last). Unfortunately, it sounds like the people at your dealer aren't too sharp. What is confusing is why your problem would have been solved for 2 weeks and then reoccur. How many miles did you drive it during these 2 weeks? When you reset the DTC's (digital trouble codes: ie check engine light); I think that some of the engine computer parameters get reset also. It then takes the computer a while to recalculate various fudge factors, if the problem came back gradually over the next 50 miles, it might still be a bad sensor that works better with the default values. I just used Vagcom to diagnose a bad MAF sensor on my daughter's 01 Jetta (2.0 liter engine); when I reset the DTC's, the correction factors for the MAF reset to default values, so that can have a temporary impact on how your car is driving. If the car is idling really fast (one this sounds a bit dangerous), a problem is definitely there that they should be able to see on their diagnostic equipment (if they a a skilled technician, there is a lot of information available when you hook the car up to the diagnostic computer, you really need someone who knows what is normal and what is not and how to interpret the information). The battery not running at full capacity really sounds like a highly unlikely solution to your problem. There are other sensors that could cause these types of problems. You say they replaced the "throttle pedal" do you mean the "throttle body which has the throttle position sensor built in" or the sensor on your gas pedal which tells the on board computer how much power to deliver? It could be a bad ground connection or a bad electrical connector on one of these sensors (like engine rpm).
  • pegusisunitedpegusisunited Member Posts: 4
    i have a 86 jetta with a GX engine and i was wondering if a external fuel pump assembly off a 90 jetta will fit on it because they look different. the newer one is smaller and more compact. thank you for any help.
  • jetta2000jetta2000 Member Posts: 1
    I actually am on here trying to find the cause for the same problem. I have a 2001 Jetta VR6, and my car recently started making this noise, I only have 58K and the belt looks great, pulleys are all turning well. I am not having the problem with my idle, but would love to figure out what is making that noise, so anyone that can help us would be great.
  • laumasterlaumaster Member Posts: 1
    My car has been having this weird problem for a couple of days now. Everytime I start it, after a couple of seconds the parking brake dahs light will come on, the front lights willl go out and th A/C system will shutdown for a couple of second and they will all start back after a few seconds. I'm also starting to get this problem even when I am driving my car. The motor keep running fine but all the things listed above will happen for a couple of sec... Does anyone have an idea what might cause this problem?
  • kirkl1kirkl1 Member Posts: 2
    Weird, I logged into today because I am having the same exact problem with the same exact model. It has gotten so bad that I cant drive at night becuase my lights go out for long periods of time. Let me know what you find out...
  • kirkl1kirkl1 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem and just got it fixed today. Believe it or not it is a bad ignition switch.The switch costs $25 and the labor was about $85. It took about a half an hour for the mechanic to fix.

    Hope this helps, good luck
  • kristina4kristina4 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2000 VW Jetta VR6 which has 95,000 miles. Have you gotten any information? It almost looks like the ASR light stays on. I am afraid to take to the dealer because of the anticipated cost. Please reply.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    >i have a 86 jetta with a GX engine and i was wondering if a external fuel pump assembly off a 90 jetta will fit on it because they look different. the newer one is smaller and more compact. thank you for any help.

    The external fuel pump assembly from a 90's Jetta will not work on your car. VW switched fuel injection systems from the Continuous Injection System (CIS) which is on your car - to a fully electronic Digifont system. Here's a brief history of the different fuel injection systems used in VWs: http://www.autotech.com/catalog/fuelinj.htm The external fuel pumps are very different in the sense that the CIS fuel system must be pressurized to around 70-80 p.s.i., while the Digifant system on the 1988 through 1992 models is pressurized somewhere in the neighborhood of 40-50 p.s.i.

    Bottom line: You need to find a fuel injection assembly from a 1985 through 1987 model year VW.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Since your car is out of warranty, I would steer clear of the dealership and look for a mechanic that specializes in either VWs or European cars. You can get equal service from the private mechanic as the dealership and save yourself some $$$$ on the labor charges...
  • kvirlkvirl Member Posts: 2
    I have this exact same problem. I have an '05 Jetta (not the newest generation) w/about 13K miles. I brought the car in to the dealer complaining about the auto transmission and how it rolls when cold. I was also told that the rolling has to do with the emissions control situation. I asked what happens when I roll back into someone and there is damage to that car, who is going to pay for that one and I was told to use my e-brake. I then indicated that I purchased an automatic to avoid having to drive stick anymore. I live in the bay area and there are hills everywhere, plus it doesn't have to be even a steep incline or decline for the car to roll almost more than my manual '92 VW evere did. Has anyone been successful in getting this resolved?
  • speedyjed17speedyjed17 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 jetta gt and just replaced an o2 sensor and i was told that i had to drive a certain amount of miles before the computer in the car would reset and the check engine light would go off. does anyone know how far i have to drive? I was told anywhere from 50 miles too 200
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The errorcode should be manually RESET using computer. Most mechanics will reset the codes after replacing parts. Do not expect it to go out by itself....that is a hit/miss propasition.

    Alternately, many auto-parts places will reset the codes for free.

    If, after resetting, the CEL comes back on in a few days, then the problem is NOT fixed.

    Personally, I use VAG-COM to diagnose and reset the codes in my VWs.
  • cgnyccgnyc Member Posts: 6
    thank you for the further advice! I've had my car back for about 2 weeks now and it seems to be running OK. Sometimes, when it is cold out and I start it, there is a rattling in the engine that lasts about 2 seconds and then the engine runs fine. Being that I really don't know much about my car (though this website and the people who post here have been tremendously helpful), I'm hoping you can take a look at the work that was done and let me know what you think..Is this just a quick fix to the problem that is still existing in my car?? If anything, maybe this will help anyone else who is having similar problems with their vehicle...

    Sept. 19th: Car towed, EPC Light/Check engine light came on --car would not go over 25-30mph
    Diagnosis: VAS 5052 diagnos acceleration position code pinpoint tests replaced accelerator pedal sensor, retest clear code set readiness road test operating in spec.
    mileage: 40963

    Oct. 10th: Car towed, EPC/Check engine light on again, car idling between 4-6,000rpm
    Diagnosis:
    **Code P1639 pinpoint tests replaced control unit, code unit & key, clear code set readiness
    **Reprogram instrument cluster (Recall)
    **Car still idled high after control unit replaced. Replaced accelerator pedal sensor (again!)
    **Replaced throttle valve, still idled high, reinstalled old throttle valve, replaced throttle pedal, retest, operating in specs SPW throttle pedal
    mileage: 41524

    Oct.17th: Car towed, cold start car idles at high rpms again
    Diagnosis:
    **Battery perform charging and starting system check, check vehicle for abnormal current draws, remove & replace battery, reset electronics
    **Found that the alarm goes of when starting vehicle, traced problem to drivers door latch
    Replaced door latch
    mileage: 41550

    That's all the paperwork really tells me..should I be worried? It is now 11/3...should I be expecting this problem to occur again? And one final question...despite all this engine trouble, I found that I had a slow leak in my passenger side tire. I had it replaced because a bulge formed in the outer tire. The tire was replaced and balance tires were rotated. Now when I drive, I can hear a swoosh- swoosh, swoosh-swoosh from the driver's side front tire--like it's rubbing on something. 1) do I need to get my tires balanced? 2) does this tire need to be replaced? 3) is the car safe to drive?

    thank you, thank you, thank you...in advance!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "rattling in the engine that lasts about 2 seconds and then the engine runs fine" is most likely just a "leaking" hydrolic lifter. (There are 2 lifters per cylinder...thus you have 8 lifters in a 4-cylinder engine )

    The oil-pressure from the oil-pump is used to take the "slack" out of the valvetrain. (thus the name hydrolic lifters) After being parked for awhile, somtimes a lifter may "leak" the pressure out. Thus, when first started, it takes a few seconds to "pump back up" and you hear a tapping/rattling sound until the slack is taken out as the oil-pressure builds back up in the leaky lifter.

    This is usually not a big deal and not somthing to concern yourself about. Somtimes, the hydrolic lifters can be quieted down by using some kind of oil-additive like "STP oil treatment" . STP is VERY thick and helps keep the oil in the lifters while the engine is shut down. STP also contains extra detergents that may clean the crud out the lifter thus making it work better.

    I have had some cars that, after treating with "STP oil treatment" for several thousand miles... the lifter noise is all but gone even when NOT using STP on the next oil-change.

    ===

    As for your tires, have them all inspected/balanced Many people have tires balanced once a year because as they wear, the balance changes.

    How many miles are on your 2000 Jetta?
  • cgnyccgnyc Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, pbeebles! My car is due for an oil change, so I will take care of this & the tire balancing this weekend. Since I just replaced a tire and had them rotated, maybe the balance is just what it needs. My car has about 41,600 miles..When I took the car in to have the tire replaced, I asked if I needed to get 2 tires instead of just one--but he said that the tires were still in good shape and only 1 new tires was necessary. I also noticed a little bit of vibration in the steering column, so I think your diagnosis is right on!
  • gartsgarts Member Posts: 1
    hey, i have a 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX and also had the same problem with the EPC light and the car being stuck in park. i was on vacation and out to dinner. probably just as bad as being stuck on new years. the dealer charged me to replace the brake switch though. is it true that you had it fixed for free due to a recall? if so, do you know what the actual recall was (number or code) so that i can look it up.

    also, when you check engine light and emissions workshop light came on, was your car sputtering when idling at a light or stop sign (possibly with flickering lights)? that is happening to my car and am curious as to what you did to fix whatever was causing those check engine lights to come on. did the O2 sensor work?

    i would really appreciate the help.
  • scoutgirlscoutgirl Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if there is a problem with the engine light on the 04 model jetta? Mine just came on, how frustrating as it's practically new with only 20,000 miles on it! I'm suppose to be leaving on a road trip in the morning... :sick:
  • lemonaidelemonaide Member Posts: 1
    For the two years I've been driving my Jetta, my check engine light has been coming on and off. Usually, it will come on for about three days and then turn off for about three weeks. The first time it happened was only five months after I bought the car (which I bought new). I took the car into the dealership a couple of days later (and thus after the light had already extinguished itself) and he told me that he found no problem. Now here is where it gets interesting. Two days ago, I brought the car in for its 50,000m service. This time the light had actually stayed on long enough that the service people could witness it with their own two eyes. Suddenly, now that my car is out of warranty, a temp coil and heat sensor need to be replaced (~$300). According to the service manager, that is why my check engine light is on this time. When I asked him about all of the other times my light has gone on (inquiring whether this could have been the problem all along) he said that there is no record of me ever stating that my light *ever* came on (that's annoying since I came in specifically for that problem and complained about it every time I came in for maintenance) and furthermore, my computer (oh how I despise the computer) has never recorded any instance of my CEL being on (moreorless inferring that I'm making this up because I have nothing better to do with my time). According to him, my computer should be documenting each event where my light comes on. As stated before, it has been coming on and off for two years straight. Has anyone else had problems with their computer not recording events? Incidentally, I also learned that the computer had also magically reset its performance levels to '0' across the board rather than the manufacturer levels. Very frustrated.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    My (very limited) understanding of check engine lights is that there are two types of codes that can occur. Some are "hard" in that when the condition occurs it is stored and light stays on. Other codes may go away (and the light goes off) if the problem that was detected does not recur.

    I also understand that there is no point point to looking for codes if the light is off. If it is off there is nothing there, if there are codes waiting to be read then the light stays on.

    This is based on what I have been told by dealer service advisors various times over the years regarding a couple of Fords. Have not had check engine light with our new VW and I don't know if there are differences in how the light operates with different models.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (jeffyscott)You are correct. If the light is not on, there may not be any codes to read. (because of the intermittant nature of some faults)

    The converse is also true, some faults are not conserded "bad enough" to illimunate the CEL. (such as when one of the heated mirrors burns out)

    I have a VAG-COM and have diagnosed severeral issues with my 2 daughters VWs. I consider VAG-COM indespensible for troubleshooting VWs. If you cannot determine why the CEL is on, how can you expect to diagnose the problem?
  • jettagirl6jettagirl6 Member Posts: 1
    The transmission will slip and sometimes jerk very hard, usually around 20 mph. It will do this at any time, warm or cold, and is very inconsistent (several times in one day and then not again for a week). Does anyone else have this problem and if so have you found a solution? I have had my car in 5 times to the dealer and of course they can't confirm the problem. I have also called VW, but they say they can't do anything other than document a complaint until the dealer confirms the problem. It is soooo frustrating!!! Any advice would be great!
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    My 2002 VR6 has been this way since new. Some days it drives great and other days it can't seem to find the right gear. I've used two different dealers thus far and they both are competent but have never been able to offer any solutions. Because it is not a continuous problem and the computer shows no codes they are unable to find a problem. I think this is a factory design problem with the computer and not a mechanical problem.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    It also happens to my 04 GLI (6 speed manual) when new. It will jerk when the gear is shifted from 5th to 6th. But will not jerk when shift directly fom 4th to 6th which I always do.
  • foggydew22foggydew22 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1998 VW Jetta Wolfsburg, and it did not have the owners manual with it. I want to change the oil, but do not know what type of oil to use. Can anyone out there help?

    The car has a 2.0 litre gas engine and an automatic transmission.

    Thanks
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    There is also this: http://www.vw.com/vwcom/content/objects/pdf/service_maint/oilchart.pdf

    Both the above and the other document, that I linked in previous post, can be reached from this site: http://www.vw.com/owners/serv_care.html
  • rmjettarmjetta Member Posts: 3
    98 jetta GLS hard to start in the morning only. The car starts fine after the rest of the day.
  • rasavage4rasavage4 Member Posts: 1
    Sparky,
    I'm having the same trouble, have you figured out what the problem was?
  • ljh1940ljh1940 Member Posts: 1
    Why does the clock reset to 12:00 everytime the car is started and works find till shut down and resets again. Any ideas?
  • rlehmanrlehman Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Jetta is currently in the garage with the same problem. Had it in a month ago for the same thing and they changed a coil. This time they are giving me the run around. First said they couldn't find anything, than said the transmission level was low, now are saying that it's an internal malfunction in the body valve. I am looking into the PA Lemon Law to see if I qualify!!! It's very frustrating.
  • dabdugdabdug Member Posts: 3
    My 2002 GLS 1.8t has almost 100,000 miles on it and I am about to purchase its 5th set of tires. I rotate them religiously every 5000 miles, but can't seem to get more than 20,000 or at the most 25,000 miles out of a set of tires. I bought it new in Oct of 2001 and it has never been involved in a major collision. The tires wear straight across in a very even pattern, they just seem to wear out very quickly. Is anyone else having these issues with their VW?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Sounds like you are just HARD on tires. On a 2003 TDI with 68,000 miles I project 100 to 130k from OEM GY LS-H's no less!? Wear is dead even across the tread also.

    So now the question : what tires have you been buying?
  • dabdugdabdug Member Posts: 3
    OE Goodyear Eagles were down to 1/32 at 22,000 miles 2nd set were also Goodyears,third set were BF Goodriches (not sure what style) forth and current are private label National Ovation H speed rating
    On the issue of being hard on tires, a friend suggested to me that the car is very light and could possible be "sliding" around turns. It is very difficult to spin the tires unless I manually switch off the traction control.
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