How can clutch last longer?
I have a 90's Sentra 4 spd with 87k and just
replaced clutch, flywheel and throwout bearing,
which totally cost $700. I want to know what is the
right way of driving in order to make the clutch
last longer. I still want to keep this car a 2
years and another 30k or so. Other than this
replacement, this car runs well.
Some friends told me that when stop, put the gear
to neutral and just step on the brake, leave clutch
pedal free. Will this help?
Also anything else to improve the life time of
clutch?
replaced clutch, flywheel and throwout bearing,
which totally cost $700. I want to know what is the
right way of driving in order to make the clutch
last longer. I still want to keep this car a 2
years and another 30k or so. Other than this
replacement, this car runs well.
Some friends told me that when stop, put the gear
to neutral and just step on the brake, leave clutch
pedal free. Will this help?
Also anything else to improve the life time of
clutch?
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Comments
87K is pretty darn good for a clutch. My two cents:
1. Don't rest your left foot on the clutch pedal when crusing. Place your foot on the floor to the side.
2. Don't hold the clutch down with the car in gear while waiting at a stop light. Put the car in neutral when you come to a stop.
The weight of the car, and the size of the clutch are big variables. You can't control them.
When starting from a stop use a little gas as possibal. You need to touch the gas pedal, but don't do anymore, keep the engine running but no more.
The clutch wears ONLY when it is partially engaged and the engine is turning at a different rate from the transmission. (Note that the former almost always implys the latter)
There are people who can shift between gears without using the clutch. They match power, pull the transmission out of gear (it should come right out if you do this right) and then match the engine speed to the speed of the transmission in the new gear and slide into that gear. DO NOT DO THIS because it can easialy damage the synchromesh and then you are looking at a new transmission. Learn the technique though, it can save a little wear. Not much though as most of the wear is starting from a stop.
The poilet bearing went out in my clutch a few years ago at 85k. We looked at the clutch and concluded that we could fix it, put a new bearing in and get anouther 80k. Then we threw the old clutch away, once we had everything apart there was no sense messing with worn parts even if they were good.
The advice to have the clutch out at a stop protects the poilet bearing and throwout bearing. Technically it puts more wear on the clutch, but this wear is nothing compared to the wear on either of those bearings. Yes you should keep the clutch out at a stop, but this solves a different problem then the one you had.
That said, $700 sounds like a lot for a clutch. I was quoted $400 to mine (did it myself though), which included a $200 clutch, I got the clutch itself for $100.
I question the need to replace the flywheel. Unless your starter is broken it should be fine. (If you had only gotten 5k miles from the clutch I'd suggest that you were racing and overheated the pressure plate and flywheel, but with 80k miles I wouldn't see any need for this work other then a machanic needing a boat payment)
I'm inclined to suggest that you didn't need a throwout bearing, but they are so cheap (compared to taking the transmission out to replace it, they do not last forver, and I would expect the next clutch to out last it) I'd have had it done anyway. anyway.
Under the hood, check for a small master cylinder. Looks like your brake master cylinder, but much smaller. Would also be in the same general area.
Also, check the owner's manual to see if they recommend a clutch fluid, usually DOT4 brake fluid.
If you don't find a master cylinder, then try to locate a cable. It helps to have an assistant move the clutch pedal while you're looking.
Kelly
I disagree about putting the car in neutral and
leaving the clutch pedal out at stop lights. Both my wife and I leave the car in gear and hold the clutch down while waiting at stop lights, and have always done so. Obviously that has not had a negative impact on our clutch's durability.
One thing we do not do, is race or rev the engine to high rpms before shifting to the next gear.
Also we do not rest our foot on the clutch pedal while driving. I usually downshift to a lower gear when approaching a stop sign or light in preparation for a stop. This too does not seem to have any bad impact on our clutch or transmission.
Of the all the manual transmission autos we have owned (51 Ford, 49 Dodge, 70 VW, 72 Mazda RX-3 wagon, 73 Mazda RX-2 coupe, 77 RX-4 Wagon, 83 Honda Accord), the only clutch I ever had to rebuild or replace was the 1977 Mazda RX-4 station wagon with about 80,000 miles on it, but then I occasionally used that car to pull a 3000 pound boat and trailer, so that should not be too surprising, especially since I needed to slip the clutch on some launching ramps in order to get the boat out of the water without stalling the engine (obviously was near the maximum weight that car could pull). Incidentally all these cars had 100,000 or more miles on them when we got rid of them except the RX-2 which had less
than 75,000 miles when we traded it in for the 1977 RX-4.
I had a Honda civic with 150K miles, and it had the original clutch, which performed fine 'til the day I sold it. I had the car for 110K of it's life, and I OFTEN wound the engine to redline and shifted, left hard from a stop, and NEVER put the car in neutral at stops...that variable can be discounted, as no measurable clutch wear (flywheel or clutch disc) occurs while the engine is running with the clutch engaged.
A large factor in clutch wear is downshifting to brake the vehicle other than at low speeds. The brakes are for slowing the vehicle, not the transmission, unless you're driving an eighteen wheeler, which needs both. For a passenger car, a rev-matched downshift will extend the life of the clutch measurably.
brians:
If I am passing someone doing 50mph and I downshift from 5th to 3rd will that cause excessive clutch wear? Or is it okay as long as I rev-match before releasing the clutch in 3rd?
I asked a friend the same question posted above and he said that if I have to downshift all the way to 3rd to pass the person maybe I shouldn't be passing them in the first place.
I have a prelude and I do it often, before that I own an Accord and I put 130k before I sell it. I do the same thing and the clutch is just fine. (the buyer think I have changed the clutch recently when he test drive the car.)
I DO use my transmission to slow myself down, and always have. I almost always depress the clutch at stop lights unless it is at a place that I know
will be an unusually long winded stop. I have never had to replace or rebuild a clutch in any of my autos except a 1977 Mazda RX-4 wagon which I used to pull a 3000 lb boat and trailer. This includes my 83 Honda which I bought new and now has 173,000 miles and counting. It also includes a 1970 VW which we got rid of with ~80,000 miles, a 1973 Mazda RX-3 wagon with 93,000+ miles on it when we sold it, a 1949 Dodge and a 1951 Ford which I do not remember the miles.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference